Darth's Train Shop - Tetsudo Brass/Bronze F3A Repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- Sold, thanks for bidding!
Auction ended Friday (4/26/24)
Time for another Darth's Train Shop project! This time around is an old Tetsudo model of an F3A. It was in awful condition and needed a lot of work done, and even if it's not a realistic model, it turned out pretty good! And for those of you who voted in my little railroad poll a couple weeks back, now you get to see the results!
![จบจนได้ ! | Black Myth: Wukong #007 [ตอนจบ?]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DSqvWndF0sw/mqdefault.jpg)
Great to see this historical model complete and running after 70 years. I just completed a "pile of parts" kit from the late 1940's, very satisfying.
Nice! Those old kits where they practically have you mine the metal from the earth are challenging, but that can make the results even more satisfying!
Wow, what a difference the paint job made. I’ve never come across one of those at all the train collector meets I’ve been to (since 1973). You probably saved a rare one from the junk bin.
You saved an antique HO locomotive that amazingly wasn't tossed in the trash after all this time,you did a fantastic job,that locomotive has a new life sporting a cool paint job.👍
It’s a shame how many classic pieces have been lost to the trash over the years! My old boss saved a prewar Lionel train set worth over $1,000 from getting thrown into a trash bin simply because it was in the way of something.
When I was a kid I found a Lionel 2-6-2 loco and tender in a neighbors' trash that had been turned over by a dog! I cleaned it up and it ran great...better looking than the 2-4-2 I had! This was back in '69 or'70!
early 1950s like 1952-53. Literally the first diesel brass models made in Japan sold in USA by International Models. I think they were sold for very cheap affordable price. So given all that they are very cool models. Way cooler than any plastic junk from the 70s or 80s even most from the 90s. way more rare and collectible
The engine looks great from here!
A good effort on a rare old metal diesel.
Same sort of spring found in the inner lip of a rubber shaft seal. You screw the spring ends together starting with the spring pre twisted /torqued the opposite direction & when the ends screw into each other the spring is relaxed by the time it is screwed together if that makes any sense.✌👍
I absolutely love the work you do ,so enjoyable to watch and much can be learned. Your channel is one of my top 10 channel to watch ever since I discovered it.I can always tell if a youtube channel is going to be good and relevant within the first 30 seconds and yours got me hooked right away. Even though I model in N scale/gauge , I still find your content most interesting to watch. Keep up the great work ,I`m sure we all appreciate it. Great resoration job BTW ,looks beautiful.
Awesome. Your paint job and decal work looked great! Was an interesting looking F unit for sure, but looked fantastic pulling freight.
The train brain has accomplished another miraculous resurrection! Good work.
Very nice
I bought A-B set of Globe F units in original “Streamliner” boxes at LHS for $3 each. Ended up assembling them and leaving them the primer grey/silver color they were when opened the box. Looks real good in hobby case with ballasted track as a display in my office. In fact, plan on a few more in generic silver color without specific road details.
Those Globe shells really took the market by storm back then! I don't think anyone made a better plastic standard F unit until Stewart brought theirs out almost 30 years later!
Another wonderful restoration job completed!
Great job! The nose is somewhat reminiscent of an early E unit ... such as an E2 or E3.
Very cool video. I have never seen an old brass model worked on. It looks really good in the S P scheme and I am very surprised at how well it runs. Thanks for sharing! Chris@Cbtrainnut!
Wow. Just wow! Thats absolutely fantastic work once again! If you hadn't chosen the Black Widow paint and went with the bloody nose, I think I'd pass on this. I may just try and get it now though. Can't wait for more, and I hope one day I can match your skill level!
- Isaac
Just keep going and trying to get things working however you can, and you’ll keep getting better! I didn’t start out being good at any of this either, and it took a lot of time and experimenting to figure out how to make things work as well as get a good paint finish.
An impressive restoration and an enjoyable video!
First, plus I don't think ive ever seen a bronze model before. Wonderful restoration.
Excellent work, interesting model.
Nice work! That was really fun to watch.
Looks 100% better now, and for what it is, runs OK too! Paint job is great. Cheers.
Hi Darth Santa FE & it's is Randy and i like yours video is cool & Thanks Darth Santa FE & Friends & Randy
You nailed it.
What a beautiful job ... great filming , editing and wording ... man . you got it all...
Considering what you started with, I think you did a wonderful job.
Well that paint job made it look vastly better! I would have given up on that engine probably. It looks to me like they mashed an E7 with an F3 and got that. Considering how the front is a separate piece maybe they did? Not sure if they ever offered E units though.
I don't know of any diesels they made besides this one. The nose does almost look like an E6, but I'm thinking this was simply the result of not having accurate info on hand.
Señores, en el lejano oriente se usa para soldar eso del..."body" o carrocería...cuando es bronce, un cautín de mínimo de 100 watts, limpiar la punta constantemente, e indispensable, el uso de flux, que veo lo usa en minuto 36, una suerte de líquido antes de soldar que se pasa con una brochita o pincel pequeño pero duro. Saludos.
Great video and somewhat of a bygone era for a project. I would like to know how long it actually took you to complete. looking forward to your next installment.
I wasn’t counting, but not including waiting times, I’d guess it was about 5 or 6 hours of actual work.
@@DarthSantaFe Hard work, this.
@@user-uk8jr6zc9l And that’s why I’m not quitting my day job. :)
It's an F3A? I would have thought it was an F3P since it has steam generators at the rear on the top. I would have thought it would have been used in passenger service. That open frame (Pittman) motor is begging for neodymium magnets. Instead of using vinegar I usually clean brass/bronze parts in citric acid heated up on the kitchen or my Coleman stove.
Have you ever built a Tichy Train Group model? I've done a 40 foot flatcar and it came out very nice with a lot of under frame detail. I ordered 3 more kits to build since I liked them so much.
So far I have only one brass engine, a Fairbanks-Morse H12-44. I'd paint it in the Northern Pacific scheme. Cheers from eastern TN
The dedicated passenger version of F units only were a thing for F7's and F9's. FP7 and FP9 respectively. They had a longer frame than the respective freight units. The longer frame allowed the installation of bigger water tanks since the water capacity of earlier F units such as F3's was quite limited. But you could still have a steam generator in any F unit. Some railroads (like NP) worked around the limited water capacity of F3's by installation additional water tanks in head end cars like baggage cars.
Whoever wins the auction can install a neodymium magnet, but the recharged original is actually pretty strong!
I haven’t built any kits from Tichy, but I’ve seen plenty of them around. Maybe I’ll get one eventually.
I just have one question where did you get a flamethrower why a flamethrower
It’s actually a butane cigar lighter, but they work nicely as mini welding torches. And no, I don’t smoke. :)
Great work restoring an old vintage F unit. What kind of rubber band did you use?
Thanks! I used an Athearn Hi-F rubber band.
@@DarthSantaFe thank you
It's an F3 with the nose of an E6.😂
This is probably one of their first models. Any copyright year found on the box or the schematics?
I couldn’t find any info of a manufacturing date, so the best I can do is guess that it’s from the mid 50’s.
I was wondering if you ever use an induction soldering iron? I learned from my grandfather that on brass models that is better to use a induction soldering iron that is a better way to pinpoint solder than it is to use the regular soldering iron where it heats up the whole model. I'm just trying to get your opinion on the subject.
I haven’t used one, but I have heard they work well for focused soldering of small parts as well as for joining track.
how big is your layout?
The finished section is 4' x 7'.
I just scrap them for the motors when their badly damaged and can't be repaired.`