CTtrapper, thanks for the great information. I think i just learned more in your two videos than all the others I have watched. I'm here in CT also and have only been trapping 3 years. Got my first beaver this week and just got permission for another property...thanks so much for sharing such great knowledge!!
+Caver Too You're Welcome, If you're not a member of CTA please join. We also have a mentorship program, we can find an experienced trapper in your area, who is willing to go out and share their knowledge with you for free. Good luck trapping and thanks for watching.
CTrapper, actually both my wife and I are members of the CTA. i'd love to meet up with someone to share some knowledge...its a slow battle to teach onself. is there a link on the web page or who should i drop a line to? thanks again....
I'm in Fairfield county, I trap in Newtown. On a down side got my hand in a 330 conibear this afternoon. Luckily I was taught the rope trick to get it back out...but boy is that arm sore...doctors don't think I broke anything....Which is amazing! Thanks for the help.
Great information and thank you for posting it. I bought some Bridger 110s and thought they were pretty good right out of the box. After making the trigger adjustments like you described, I realized how poor they really were. Now they're really good and smooth.
I've gotta say thanks for this information! Been trying for over a week now to trap a skunk residing under my shed but it kept sneaking past without tripping the trap... I adjusted it yesterday as you described, caught the skunk last night with a clean hit right behind the head!
salmon taco, when you say “rat” are you using slang for muskrat? Or are you talking about an actual rat-like a Norway rat or a roof rat? I have a roof rat that I’ve seen twice in the attic that avoids the wooden snap traps and won’t eat the Bromethalin poison that I’ve set out. I was thinking about setting a Conibear 110 in the attic with a raw peanut on the bait spikes to see if that kills it.
Thanks, for taking the time to make, and share with us. I have a new 120 Bridger that when the jaws are compressed, the safety latches become loose. How would one fix this? Thank you
I bought some bridger 160 and 220 and had hip catches. I noticed the flat spot on the trigger was below half way on the bar. I put bolt on triggers and it fixed the problem. wish I'd seen this video before.
CTtrapper..........it looks like your trap is firing with the safeties still in place, and even after it fires the springs are still compressed with the safeties on!?......are you doing anything different?......(I'm a noob) Thanks for the video as I will tune my triggers up like you showed, on the two Duke 110s I bought, they have an inch of slop in them.
+pdoggy10inch I left the safeties on, they will still fire because with the trap set the springs are compressed further than where the safeties hold them. The springs open til the safeties catch, leaving the springs still compressed. I did that so I wouldn't have to keep compressing the springs.
+enschuldigen1 It's ironic that you mention that, because the very reason I am watching this video is because the trigger on my Belisle 110 trap is the worst thing I've ever seen. An animal has to be suicidal or blindly running at full speed to fire it off. Considering the price of those things they should be better than that.
CTtrapper, thanks for the great information. I think i just learned more in your two videos than all the others I have watched. I'm here in CT also and have only been trapping 3 years. Got my first beaver this week and just got permission for another property...thanks so much for sharing such great knowledge!!
+Caver Too You're Welcome, If you're not a member of CTA please join. We also have a mentorship program, we can find an experienced trapper in your area, who is willing to go out and share their knowledge with you for free. Good luck trapping and thanks for watching.
CTrapper, actually both my wife and I are members of the CTA. i'd love to meet up with someone to share some knowledge...its a slow battle to teach onself. is there a link on the web page or who should i drop a line to? thanks again....
What county are you from?
I'm in Fairfield county, I trap in Newtown. On a down side got my hand in a 330 conibear this afternoon. Luckily I was taught the rope trick to get it back out...but boy is that arm sore...doctors don't think I broke anything....Which is amazing! Thanks for the help.
Great information and thank you for posting it. I bought some Bridger 110s and thought they were pretty good right out of the box. After making the trigger adjustments like you described, I realized how poor they really were. Now they're really good and smooth.
I've gotta say thanks for this information! Been trying for over a week now to trap a skunk residing under my shed but it kept sneaking past without tripping the trap... I adjusted it yesterday as you described, caught the skunk last night with a clean hit right behind the head!
Thanks for the tips! I tuned up my 110 and caught a huge rat in 24 hours, that has survived several snap trap hits in past few weeks.
salmon taco, when you say “rat” are you using slang for muskrat? Or are you talking about an actual rat-like a Norway rat or a roof rat?
I have a roof rat that I’ve seen twice in the attic that avoids the wooden snap traps and won’t eat the Bromethalin poison that I’ve set out. I was thinking about setting a Conibear 110 in the attic with a raw peanut on the bait spikes to see if that kills it.
Thanks! This was a great help. Thanks for all the detailed information in the video. I was able to put a hair trigger on all my traps.
This is an extremely valuable video. Thanks for this
Great vid! I am surprised the trap is tripping so hard when you have the safeties on the springs.
Excellent tutorial, with great explanations .
Thanks, for taking the time to make, and share with us. I have a new 120 Bridger that when the jaws are compressed, the safety latches become loose. How would one fix this?
Thank you
I slide them up the spring until they're tight. they have to be a little loose to be able to unlatch them. Thanks for watching
I bought some bridger 160 and 220 and had hip catches. I noticed the flat spot on the trigger was below half way on the bar. I put bolt on triggers and it fixed the problem. wish I'd seen this video before.
Excelente video un saludo desde colombia
Great tips. Thanks!
Thank you for this video!
CTtrapper..........it looks like your trap is firing with the safeties still in place, and even after it fires the springs are still compressed with the safeties on!?......are you doing anything different?......(I'm a noob) Thanks for the video as I will tune my triggers up like you showed, on the two Duke 110s I bought, they have an inch of slop in them.
+pdoggy10inch I left the safeties on, they will still fire because with the trap set the springs are compressed further than where the safeties hold them. The springs open til the safeties catch, leaving the springs still compressed. I did that so I wouldn't have to keep compressing the springs.
CTtrapper I see.....thanks for the reply!
I think using a belisle trap saves all this trouble and works great without all the hassle.
+enschuldigen1 It's ironic that you mention that, because the very reason I am watching this video is because the trigger on my Belisle 110 trap is the worst thing I've ever seen. An animal has to be suicidal or blindly running at full speed to fire it off. Considering the price of those things they should be better than that.
+DeadCats I hope this video helps
Where do you buy those traps at?
good tips
rookie question why is trap firing with the safetys on would this still kill a animal or hurt my dam hand ? ha ha
It might hurt your hand a little bit, but would not kill an animal
Loads of good information here, thanks.