This was super helpful! I noticed my PFAFF 145 H2 was running a little rough. I did all the basic adjustments before going deeper and no improvement. All it took was a small adjustment to the needle bar and the issue was resolved. She hasn’t stitched this nice in a long while. Thank you so much for creating this video.
Thank you for posting this video. I have a Pfaff 1245 and your demonstration of how to adjust the timing is much easier to understand than reading the manual!
Since I started watching your tutorials a few weeks ago I have been looking for a walking foot machine. Even used ones are expensive. By diligent searching I was able to buy a neglected, but complete Pfaff 145 H3 for $50.00. Thanks to this video, I was able to disassemble and clean it then time it and it is now working great. Thank you for all your excellent videos!
If doing some maintenance the machines come back to their former glory. Irons last more than us! A few years ago I bought a leather skiving machine 100 years old abandoned in a corner of a shoemaker'shop. I knew this ruined machine could recover its former glory and that is why it is now: th-cam.com/video/fx_XuIHcO50/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching the videos!
FABULOUS video !!! I've had this Pfaff forever and never had any trouble that I couldn't solve--until yesterday, when I knocked it off it's timing. I don't have time to be without it--so I looked at this video. I'm back in business today because of it !! Thanks so much for posting this !! David (in St.Mary's Bay NL,Canada)
Hello David, I am so glad these videos are useful! Welcome to this channel anytime! Canada a great country! My English teacher, and forever friend is Canadian (from British Columbia) We have a friendship for more than 30 years. Greetings from Mexico!
Sincere thanks. You saved me serious down time. My 1245 now runs considerably better, and I look forward to watching all of your tutorials. My respect and gratitude to you.
Excellent tutorial. People who do not understand how it works after watching this should not be screwing around with these great machines. I have a one needle Pfaff 146 (so effectively a 145). When I got it the thread kept breaking. Then a professional told me that it could be that the hook was touching the needle. The needle then gets hot and your thread breaks. Turns out he was right. So I got out my screwdrivers and did most of what you showed in this video. The 50 year old machine has now been running for a couple of years like it is brand new.
This video not only showed me how to fix the timing of my 545, it gave me confidence to take it apart! The way your video is constructed and explained walked me right through the procedure. I didn't have to shlep my machine to the technicians business and wait five days!!! Thank you very much!!! Please, please keep up the great work and make more videos of machine maintenance and repair. The sewing is a learning process but if my machine is down or not working properly, I'm dead in the water. Thank you for taking the time make to make this!!!
I have a PFAFF 546 H3 which is a dual needle walking foot, while i was sewing the screws on the large bevel gear underneath came loose so shuttle going nowhere, I spent a lot of frustrating time to no avail to fix the timing, i eventually came to your video which i am grateful for, thanks for the info.
This was very helpfull and saved me lots of money to get it fixed (as we only got one service center in the whole country....!). Thanks a lot for taking the time to make this video. It might help others to know, that to align the needle and the hook, I found tiny markings (holes) on each gears to where the hook and the needle meet. They were not easy to find under alle the greasing stuff, but they surely made the timing much easier on my Pfaff 545.
Great video! I knocked my machine out of timing due to operator error and HATE taking it into a local shop for repairs, they have a week wait. I was able to re-time my machine in about an hour after watching this, it works great now I have a pfaff 145.
Thank you! I forgot how to put the upper thread in my old Pfaff 17473 from 1966. I use it about once a year and to day was that day! You saved my day!! =D
Perfection. As always. I am so envious of your knowledge. Thank you once again for sharing it with us. You are the only one willing to share the in depth procedures. So thank you thank you cechaflo. Ps. My boyfriend is starting to get jealous of you. I spend more time watching your videos than with him!! Hahaha!♡♡♡ I told him I'm learning. He said, "You don't even have a sewing machine like that!" Lol. Take care. Hope you guys are staying healthy.♡
hello Cesar, it was very helpfull for me even my machine is not the same (it is a Pfaff345 H3) with a walking foot. Your video gave me the good way to put in time this machine and it now sew perfectly. thank you again, Alain.
+John Bigsby I'm glad the video was useful for you! ...When the 'hook point' is lightly backwards, hence, 'upper tension' has to be tightened more to get an even lockstitch...so, the thread is too tensioned, and causes the 'annoying harsh sound'. Thanks for following us on our channel!
Check the auto opener, and check the area where the bobbin base meets the underside of the needle plate. The auto opener may be pulling too much - causing the thread to bind up - causing you to add more tension. The bobbin case tension could also be too tight.
señor cesar despues de tanto tiempo... y asesoria suya! logre conseguir una maquina triple transporte, como le habia comentado hace mas de un año la situacion economica en mi pais y practicamente todo aqui es cada vez mas dificil (venezuela) pero logre adquirir una PFAFF 145, segun lei es la version antigua de esta maquina! seguire observando sus videos para aprender como en si.... se usa y se le hace servicio y mantenimiento!
Fantastic knowledge you teach, and brilliant ,camera work, thank you both, Do you have any tutorials on the 45k1 singer and the 132k6 as I use both but each with there own issues, I also would like to know is there any tricks to stop my two machines leaving upper dog feed and lower foot marks on the leather,
I have never had those Singer machines you are mentioning. After watching and reading some information I have realized they are very powerful, heavy duty sewing machines. Regarding your question my opinion is the feed dog and presser foot teeth leave marks on the leather material because the pressure spring is too tightened. Loosen it a little bit.
Hi Sir,Nicely executed I love it when it moves all in sink it must be a good feeling. If you ever get the chance and you are willing to show,could you film setting the timing on a machine when it has two bobbing cases either side of each other please.
Señor Cesar: According to an old Pfaff Owner's Manual, the machine requires needle "Subclass -706/05; -706/07: needle system 134-35. Subclass -706/47: needle system *190*." (190 r; MT x 190) Like yours, my Pfaff 1245-706/48 also came adjusted with a 135-17. I asked Groz-Beckert about the lengths of the two different needle systems and this was their reply: "The needle systems 190 and 135x17 are exact, except for the length of the needle. 190 - 44.5 mm in length from the top of the eye to the top of the shank. 2.0 mm shank diameter. 135x17 - 38.9 mm in length from the top of the eye to the top of the shank. 2.0 mm shank diameter. The entire length of the needle is never mentioned when checking needles for a specific machine. Unfortunately, the longer the needle, the better chance of having skipped stitches, or breaking a needle, exists. Many times the extra length on the 190 is not needed for the sewing operation. Many mechanics will lower the needle bar height 5.6 mm to accommodate the 135x17 needles. By doing this they reduce the chances of the problems mentioned above. Plus, the 190 needles are limited to a very small availability of sizes and point styles. On the other hand, the 135x17 needles offer a wide array of sizes and point styles." So there are the trade-offs. Given the nature of the work you perform on the machine (slower speed with greater control, and precision, not high-speed production) the issue of skipped stitches may not be a factor. What do you think? Thank you for your excellent videos! Muchas Gracias!
Hola Señor César. I have a .pdf copy of the original Instruction Manual for your model of the Pfaff 1245, that was scanned by the Keystone Sewing Machine Company. If you want a copy, give me an e-mail and I will send it to you. You might find it an interesting reference.
Hello Mr. Clinton, I also have found similar information for the 1245 Pfaff: keysew.com/Webpages/Owners&PartsBooks/OwnersBooks/1245%20Owners%20Old%20Case.pdf www.manualslib.com/manual/121969/Pfaff-1245.html I really appreciate your assistance!
Thanks for the video. How do you know that the set screws will be on the grooves of the hook shaft when you loosen them to free the hook? I loosened the set screws to time it and it gets out of time after a short while because the set screws do not aligned with the grooves after I move the hook around to align it to the needle scarf. Thanks for your advice. Very helpful videos!
In fact the timing is done with the 'small gear'. It is not necessary to move the bigger gear. As you can see the small gear has two set screws. When both of them are loose the shuttle axis is free and can be moved back and forth. th-cam.com/video/lGhoOsr91rk/w-d-xo.html This shaft has no grooves to place the set screws. The shaft is thoroughly rounded. After going the needle bar 2 mm approx. upwards considering the ascending movement, the hook point should meet the center of needle scarf above the needle eye. At his moment, you should carefully tighten one of the set screws. The other is hidden behind and after tightening the first one you would turn the big wheel to find the other screw to also be tightened. I hope this information is useful. We have another related timing video: th-cam.com/video/pQGPdiY6m9U/w-d-xo.html
awesome job my friend thank you so much because now i will be able to fix my own pfaff 145 sewing machine/ / excellente trabajo amigo e aprendido mucho con este video y ahora podre reparar my propia maquina muchas grasias ,
Thanks for the helpful videos..just recently used them to overhaul a 1245 706/46... Looking to get a synchronized binder...can't figure out of the feed dog and plate listed for a model with a thread trimmer will work with my older model without one...would you happen to know? This video leads me to believe yes, but I haven't seen the inner workings of a newer model with the thread trimmer
Hi Cesar! I have followed your video here for my Pfaff 545-H3… I can get it running and all threads look good… then I might get some threads that bunch up and it’s all out of time? I even have to move the rotary hook closer again… my question is… when you place your needle bar down in lowest position, to make sure it is close enough to the belly of the rotary hook and that the rotary hook is in the middle of the needle… what if my needle bar is way out of where it should be? I know this won’t make sense… but I have marked a 3 mm line a couple of times from the lowest dead point and now I have 2 different lines???
In fact, the 545-H3 is very similar to the 1245-706 Or perhaps much more powerful than a Pfaff 1245 Regarding your question it could happen that the needle bar is not tightened enough. The little set screw that fastens the needle bar would need to be tightened a bit more. If so, after sewing hard materials the needle bar moves upwards a little bit.
hola Cesar gracias por leerme y contestarme tan pronto hoy en estos momentos te estoy viendo con el tema del mantenimiento, calibrado y puesta a punto de tus maquinas de coser,y es como si yo me estaria viendo en un espejo clavadito,todo igual, creo que llevas años el oficio ¿40? no se ya me diras pero se ve que eres de la vieja escuela saludos cordiales " ARTISTA"
Can you do a video on how the tension release is supposed to be hooked up when the presser foot is lifted. I can not find anywhere how all of it goes together and how and when it works. Thanks for all your video’s!!!
If I am right you are referring to the 'little pin' that is placed in the center hole of the bigger half cut threaded bolt. If the take up lever is lifted it puts in action a mechanism that pushes this little pin frontwards. This little pin pushes the small black disc with slot guide (th-cam.com/video/_KIJbS4khyo/w-d-xo.html) releasing the tension of the thread. At this time of the video you can clearly see the little pin in the back inside the center of the half cut bolt. th-cam.com/video/_KIJbS4khyo/w-d-xo.html If the original is lost, you could make a new one out of a wood nail or thick sewing needle(10 mm long approx.) I hope this information helps.
I have no related video on youtube. Some useful drawings on 3.03 page of the manual:www.universalsewing.com/images2/parts_lists/all/6ihfjkle.pdf As far as I know, it would no be a big deal to change this belt. Before purchasing the belt verify it is compatible to your machine. www.amazon.com/Industrial-Sewing-Machine-Timing-16-410918-05/dp/B075XNCRD1 www.aliexpress.com/item/32950507719.html
Yes, your sewing machine is very similar to 1245-706/47. The timing method works out for it. This is a related newest video: th-cam.com/video/pQGPdiY6m9U/w-d-xo.html
@@Cechaflo thank you. I spent abit of time today on my Pfaff 156 post bed today. I got it working thanks to your video after 9-10 times adjusting it couldn't figure out why it kept slipping after 2 layers of leather . Figured I just had to grind flat the ends to those 2 screw that was on the shuttle gear. But besides that I had to reposition the hook to the needle . The rest of your video was very informative for future problems.
I’ve just purchased a Pfaff 145 and it seems to sew pretty well. In many circumstances at different stitch length, thread and needle combinations. The upper tensions gets loose when sewing in reverse. Any tips as to why?
I have a video about tensions hopefully, it is useful. th-cam.com/video/_KIJbS4khyo/w-d-xo.html Do a test on a piece of paper to check the stitch length with no thread on the machine. The same distance would be forwards and backwards. The needle point should enter the same holes. If it does not meet the same hole it means the small presser foot should be regulated to touch the feed dog on time to travel forwards or backwards.
Pregunta?. Porque salta puntada la maquina 1245 cuando se colocan perfiles plásticos. En cuero, vinilo o ecocuero cose normal. Ya revisamos el gancho y esta bien a punto e inicia su cruce al inicio ese la muesca de la aguja. Muchas gracias por la orientación o colaboración que me puedan dar.
Si usamos una aguja delgada, la aguja si perfora al plástico, pero este se mantiene apretado/adherido a la aguja y no permite que el hilo se suelte debajo al ascenso de la barra de aguja y forma el 'bucle' que agarra el gancho y hacer el 'locstitch'. La solución es coser plásticos con una aguja mas gruesa, para que el hilo corra suelto y forme su 'bucle'.
Hello , I am Stefan , I have a Pfaff 145 with a painful small bobin. Is it posible to change the rotary hook wit a big one from Pfaff 1245-706? Kind regards!
The Pfaff 145 bobbin is slightly shorter:www.amazon.com/Cutex-Brand-Bobbins-Sewing-Machines/dp/B01AETIG8O#:~:text=The%20Metric%20measurements%20for%20this,of%20PFAFF%20Industrial%20Sewing%20Machines. The Pfaff 1245 bobbin is slightly bigger:www.amazon.com/Cutex-Capacity-Bobbins-Sewing-Machines/dp/B09FKGJF3B#:~:text=The%20Metric%20measurements%20for%20this,MM%20Wide%20and%2011MM%20Thick. I really do not know if it is possible to change the rotary hook from a Pfaff 1245 Unfortunately I do not have a Pfaff 145 for the testing if it is possible.
Hi Cechaflo, I have found all your videos very helpful, thank you for taking the time to make and upload them. I have recently bought a Brother 837 Walking foot machine for my upholstery business, on the whole it sews very nicely but on occasion it randomly skips some stitches. I have tried all the obvious fixes (new/correct needle, tensions etc) but wondered if you could advise where to try next. In between the skipped stitches it sews perfectly. Thanks again. Ray :-)
+Mackenzie Upholstery Hi Ray, Sometimes, the 'skipping issue' is caused when the 'hook point' is not close enough to the 'needle scarf' and at the time of sewing the needle bends a little and the mentioned 'hook point' does not reach the 'upper thread loop'...the solution is move the 'hook point' closer to 'needle scarf'. On the other hand, perhaps, the 'hook point' is not catching the 'thread loop' on time (too fast), so, you have to move the 'hook mechanism' a little backwards to allow the needle form the 'thread loop' while its ascending movement(2,...3 mm)
+Cechaflo Thanks for your reply. I think I have managed to solve the issue. On close inspection i think your second suggestion was the problem. Rather than mess around with the hook mechanism on this occassion I adjusted the needle bar down a fraction and it has not dropped a stich since. Thanks again for your time and help ☺
+Mackenzie Upholstery Hi Ray, great you've found a fast solution for the skipping issue. A more steady solution would be to move the 'needle bar' the same 'little fraction' downwards. You are welcome anytime!
Thank you so much for this wonderful tutorial! I have followed the tutorial but my hook seems to catch or stop at random and I am still unable to keep my machine in time. Do you have any suggestions?
I have the same machine the timming is good but I have a little problem. My stitch length always seems to small. I have set the length on the adjustment knob and the lever on the back of the machine. Any other tips ?
I have a Pfaff 1245-706/48 that needs to have some cleaning, and I wonder since it's only a digit of difference with mine I wonder if i can apply the same
The mechanisms are similar and you can do the same process on your Pfaff machine. This other video is also helpful to understand the timing process: th-cam.com/video/pQGPdiY6m9U/w-d-xo.html
@@Cechaflo Thank you! I will study both your videos. I am new to the field, and I hope to add extra life to this beautiful machine. I have an extra question. Do you have any sources for the tables?
@@ThatTacoLady I do not know, sorry. I am located in Mexico. Hopefully, if you are in the USA: www.sailrite.com/Sewing-Machines/Sailrite-Sewing-Machine-Parts/Table-Stands/Sewing-Machine/Fabricator Perhaps, it would be necessary to elongate the hollow part of the machine to make your machine head fit perfectly. A carpenter can do a new one for you or to restore the table of your machine have by putting over a new formica. A yellow glue is useful to stick formica to a wood table: th-cam.com/video/o2xeezdF8Ss/w-d-xo.html
The machine Pfaff 1245.706) of the video is an old version.Similar versions are the 545 and an older one the 145. The new version of this model is the Pfaff, just called 1245. The needle sizes for these models go from 110=18 (92 thread size) to 140/150=22 (138 thread size) www.pfaff-industrial.com/en/portfolio/sewing-machines/flat-bed-heavy-duty/pfaff1245 But as these machines are heavy duty they can work out with thicker needles depending on the thickness of the material. Most of the upholsterers are aware of this option. I bought this used machine in 2009 and it is still in good condition, despite it being used before for 30 years approx. When I sew thin materials I can use needles from 90=14 until 110=18 without any problem. I do the same with thicker needles when I have to sew thick and hard materials that could bend a thinner needle.
Amigo de pura casualidad ud sabe si en una Pfaff 146 las partes del pie alimentador etc son intercambiables con la 1246 mas q nada viendo la posibilidad de tener varios gauges en la apertura de la aguja Cualquier informacion sera agradecida
Для этой процедуры (перемещение острия крючка ближе / дальше к игольному шарфу) необходимо было ослабить «вертикальную большую шестерню» сейчас, «острие крючка» достаточно близко к «игольному шарфу». чтобы он оставался на месте, осторожно затяните «регулировочные болты». Я собираюсь ослабить установочные винты маленькой шестерни, чтобы освободить челнок. 1. Установите «игольницу» в крайнее нижнее положение (нижняя мертвая точка). 2. Теперь поднимите планку на 3 мм вверх и удерживайте ее. 3 Теперь вам нужно совместить «острие челнока» с центром «иглы». Напоминаю, что челнок движется свободно, поэтому я могу разместить «точку крючка» точно в нужной части. 4. Осторожно затяните два винта один за другим. 5. Следующая процедура - определить высоту «игловодителя». Итак, прежде чем что-либо делать, убедитесь, что «игла» выровнена с «острием крючка», как и в предыдущем шаге, на 3 мм вверх. 6. Слегка ослабьте «регулировочный болт» игловодителя, не позволяя ему упасть. 7. Мы можем слегка косить «игольную планку» вверх и вниз, пока «игольная коса» не встретится с «острием крючка» над ее ушком (в центре). 8. Теперь затяните регулировочный болт игловодителя. 9. Установите пластиковые крышки на место. 10. «Мизинец / носок» челнока должен войти в «канавку» под «узкой игольной пластиной». Это не часть процедуры поднятия, а когда я разбирал транспортер. Я снова это отрегулировал. Это тоже не часть явки. В нижней и задней части есть болт, который регулирует «тонкий рычаг» в передней части, где проходит нить (поэтому, если он настроен, не трогайте его).
@@Cechaflo the machine looks perfect. it still needs small adjustments, I got it thanks to your review. for me you are an idol and I respect you for everything you do!! Greetings!
buenas tardes señor cesar, yo tengo una pfaff 136- 2bs creo que es una maquina muy buena, su puntada maxima es 5.5 mm, ahora tengo la posibilidad de comprarme una de triple arrastre, pero tengo 2 opciones, la 1245 y la 1246, a 1/4 ,me las dan en el mismo precio pero no se cual sea mas versatil, o mas facil de manejar ,si la de una o la de 2 agujas? usted que. opina? me gustaria mucho saber su opinion! saludos de Leon Guanajuato!
Hi Cechaflo! You have been doing a incradible inspiring job! So I dicde to step forward and buy a real machine for the job! Is the Pfaff 1245-706/07 much diferent or worst from this one you use at this video? Thank you so much for evething you have been doing!
It is not necessary to remove the gearboxes. I only did it for instructional purpose. This other review video is related: th-cam.com/video/pQGPdiY6m9U/w-d-xo.html
Does the hand wheel supposed to be 100% easy to spin ? I have some spots of my PFAFF 145 wheels where it is a bit harder to turn. Like the hand wheel is not 100% free spinning with some tight spots.
The hand wheel is linked to the clutch motor by a rubber belt. I would suggest you to check it out first with no rubber belt. Next, check it out with the belt attached to the motor clutch pulley. After doing this you would realize what is wrong.
@@Cechaflo yes this is without the belt attached and there is just one spot where the handwheel spin is not 100% free like it is rubbing against metal. Thank you for the video, I am going to try to time my 145 according to.your very detailed tutorial video. I also have oiled every moving parts but the hand wheel.is still not 100% free spinning.
Muchas gracias por la sugerencia. Por el momento solo tenemos 2 videos que muestran una máquina de poste, triple arrastre de dos agujas. th-cam.com/video/vU4mAuH1y_U/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/gvUmmyz2tRA/w-d-xo.html
Is there anything I can do if my machine won't stitch forward after using a back stitch? It is like it doesn't go the other way even though the lever is down.
Gracias por estos videos! como siempre veo sus videos y trato de aprender! antes le había mencionado que gracias a sus videos me he interesado bastante en aprender a tapizar! y bueno he estado buscando bastante maquinas industriales usadas para comenzar! y creo que comprare una PFAFF 463!! vengo a preguntarle primero a usted maestro! ya que no se si la maquina sea buena para trabajos como los que veo aquí en su canal de youtube! me dijeron que esa me serviría pero la verdad preferiría preguntarle primero a usted que es el que de verdad sabe! sino que otra maquina o cual maquina pfaff podría recomendar para coser cuero o que me ayude a hacer trabajos como los que usted aqui nos enseña¿? por lo menos para empezar! después si dios quiere cambiaría a una mas avanzada!
+Xiomara Velasquez Me parece bien la máquina, para empezar a hacer tapicería, es sencilla, pero muy fuerte para coser materiales como el cuero/piel; mas adelante podría comprar otra industrial de triple arrastre. No vaya a pagar mucho por la máquina... un aproximado de 200 a 300 dólares a lo mucho y tiene que estar en buen estado, con su mesa y motor (es precio aprox en México). th-cam.com/video/AI5hNCPcy5w/w-d-xo.html Gracias por ver nuestros videos!
Vi un video donde su máquina tiene placa como para darle la distancia al material cuando va cosiendo Usted fabricó la placa de metal, puede hacer un tutorial sobre cómo hacerla gracias de antemano
Hello ! I bought a Pfaff 1245 and was rebuilding it with the help of my Machine Repair instructor, Tim. Tim has sadly passed away. I was working on an above-deck issue that involved the Needle Bar Cradle and I don’t know what happened... The Walking Foot doesn’t walk. I boldly tried to adjust it, by changing the timing on the rods behind the sewing machine. Now, there isn’t anything in the Pfaff 1245 Manual about those rods. Do you have any videos about a full teardown? We were planning to do a full-teardown and rebuild. Tim’s graduation exam was to strip the machine to parts, throw them in a bucket of grease and rebuild it within two hours. So I know there is a way to adjust everything from scratch, but I don’t know where to look for this information.
In fact you have a good sewing machine. It is just matter of putting the pieces together to let it run again. I think the most advisable would be to have the help of another technician. Unfortunately, I do no have more related videos to help, sorry.
@@Cechaflo I'm trying to improve my sewing machine, brother LT2-B832-3. The problem is less tight stitches, or even overtight without a balance between the top & bottom threads. In the manual the normal needle size is dpx5, but I will try dpx17 like this video of yours. my question after watching this video: How come the dpx17 needle which is 1.5mm different from dpx5 can make changes to the stitches? "still thinking ... learning ....
Geri Syandra Yusman I only would say if a needle goes down through too deep it would be necessary to place the rotary hook lightly backwards. In other words it would be delayed too much. The needle should descend down through just enough to a dead point to start the ascending movement (no more than 2 mm) to form the upper thread loop that would be caught by the hook. Between the needle point and needle eye there is a little belly that should almost rub another belly of lateral wall of rotary hook. This happens precisely at the milimetrical ascending movement. This protruding side helps to stand the thread forming the loop that would immediately caught by the hook point. Perhaps the needle of your machine is ok and the issue would be that the hook is not catching the loop faster. It could happen the needle is going too deep. Of course, it catches the thread loop and sew, but some failures appear.
What is your opinon of the New Pfaff 1245 machines, I'm thinking of buying a new one instead of taking a chance on a used machine.... love your videos!
Hello Charlotte, Sorry for delay! ...I only would say the new series 1245 Pfaff machines are manufactured in China and I have realized they get old in a bad way. They are not the same as the old machines manufactured in Germany. Of course, at the beginning, they look impecable flawless. It is only an opinion, you take the last decision. Thanks for watching these videos! You are welcome anytime!
Hello, any chances of giving me a hand please? My Pfaff 335 clone has got 2 problems: the manual foot lift does not work and the walking foot does not make contact with the plate so the presser foot stays in the same point all the time and doesn’t not stitch anything. I have got videos that show the problem. Please help if you can, thank you
What needle do you use for that? I would like to take up upholstery and my father has the same machine. I find it hard to find the needle. I want to do vinyl and sofa fabrics TY
According to Pfaff 1245 manual, needle system is 134-35. The correct sizes go from 110 (european measure)=18 (Singer or american measure), 120=20, 130=21, 140=22, 160=23, to 180=24. For thin materials, could use a 18, 120 Medium size material a 21, 22 Heavy materials a 160, 180 th-cam.com/video/vtfrcDS5WJQ/w-d-xo.html For the projects you have in mind a 120=20 needle size would fit well. You could use standard upholstery thread 92 polyester. There is a wing nut in the back to regulate the height of presser foot. It should go in the middle. Threads:www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=polyester-thread-092 store.keysew.com/thread
hola cechaflo muchas gracias por los videos me gustaría conocer tu opinión sobre la maquina de coser durkopp adler 267. estoy dudando si comprar esa máquina o la pfaff 1245. gracias
Estimado Antoni, Las dos máquinas son muy buenas. Solamente Ud. tiene la última decisión. ¿Van a ser nuevas o usadas? Si son usadas tendría que basarse en el estado en que se encuentre cada una para decidir cual le conviene mejor; que tengas sus partes completas, etc. y el precio también tiene que ver.
I have a 1245 706/47 I am confused about the needle system because I have seen two different callouts I have seen the 134-35 called out in some service manuals for the 1245 in general But I’ve also seen 190 needle system In a parts diagram for the 1245 706/47 And in the same parts diagram it shows 134-35 for the 1245 706/07 Can you please advise I’m not having any luck anywhere else
@@widget00 At the beginning of this video we clearly see the system 134-35 I use for my Pfaff 1245-706: th-cam.com/video/H4sOyVIYHt0/w-d-xo.html Different needles I use to sew with my Pfaff 1245 .706.: th-cam.com/video/vtfrcDS5WJQ/w-d-xo.html Two more related videos,hopefully are somehow useful: th-cam.com/video/pQGPdiY6m9U/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/_KIJbS4khyo/w-d-xo.html
Hello.. I have a Pfaff 1245-706/47 when the feed dog moves back and forth it stays at the same level it does not lower down at any time ...is this normal or should it be adjusted ?
I think the 'feed dog should be adjusted. When 'feed dog theeth' appear to the level of needle plate the 'small foot' touches these theeth to start together a 'travel' backwards dragging the cloth, vinyl, etc. This 'movement backwars' could be 2, 3, 4 or 5 mm according to 'stitch length set up'. When this dragging movement to the rear finishes, the 'feed dog teeth' 'should hide' beneath the needle plate until getting the front part again. That is when the teeth show up to start a 'new dragging' Hope it helps.
Hola Cesar, hace mucho tiempo que no le escribo, pero siempre miro sus lindos vídeos. Algunas máquinas tienen un " feed dog" linear. O sea se mueve hacia atrás y hacia delante sin hundirse. En general son "binding machines " que tienen un "linear thrust feed " Sin embargo funciona bastante bien. Solo hay que regularlo para que esté justo a nivel de la placa, no por encima. Tengo una vieja Adler 67 FA 72, que es así. Me costó mucho tiempo entender porque el "Feed dog" no subía y no bajaba. Encontré respuestas en un blog muy bueno llamado "Leather worker.net". Mi máquina es una vieja 67 despojada de sus atributos FA que eran una cuchilla de corte de hilos automática. Venia medio desarmada y encima la dejaron caer y le quebraron la bancada, al traerla de Estados Unidos donde la compré en ebay. Disculpe los términos en ingles ya que no conozco bien los nombres de las partes en castellano. Después de muchos años de tenerla olvidada y con salud delicada, decidí tratar de repararla. Siga inspirandonos.
@@ericbonduel2179 ¡Le agradezco mucho por ver mis videos y encontrar algo de inspiración! Se me hace un modelo curioso la máquina 'ribeteadora' que Ud. menciona. No la conozco.
Si Don Cesar, después de mucho buscar encontré explicaciones en Leatherworker.net ; si las vuelvo a encontrar se las mandaré a su correo. Hace años estuvimos correspondiendo, en la época en la cual eliminó sus primeros videos de TH-cam y le pregunté si aún tenía copias. Usted me dio ánimos cuando estaba convaleciente de una operación de corazón.
Tampoco se con precisión en que año se fabricaron en Alemania estas máquinas de coser 1245-706/47. Si había escuchado que tienen algo mas de 30 años de uso. En este foro hay alguna información al respecto. Parece que aparecieron a principios de los 80 leatherworker.net/forum/topic/69254-pfaff-1245-help/
hi. i have a quilting machine with multple stiching needles. its a new machine from china and its giving me lots of miss stitches. i have watched ur video which is very helpful to some extent. but i still have challenges timminf all 36 needles. what do u advice i do now?
Its height is measured by the hook point of the shuttle. The hook point should be precisely aligned in the center of needle scarf above the needle eye. To do this first alignment the shuttle should be loosen.
@@Cechaflo i cannot find a service manual in order to get the proper measurements for needle rise when doing the adjustments. are the measurements given in the video correct for my 545 h3? thanks for answering i greatly appreciate it.
Carlo Stromei I have realized procedures are similar for many of these machines. I have never had in my hands a 545H3, but it looks similar to mine. 1. By moving forwards the 'sewing machine hand wheel', the needle bar with its needle included goes down in a descending movement and finishes its run to a dead point (the crank-connecting rod mechanism finishes its run downwards to start an ascending movement) 2. If I continue moving forwards the 'hand wheel' in a very little rotation the 'needle bar' starts its running upwards. It should be no more than 3 mm. 3. When the needle bar has moved upwards no more than 3 mm I should stop and verify the 'hook point' meets the 'needle scarf' in the center. Let's notice the shuttle should be loose beforehand to freely rotate and make the hook point meets the 'needle scarf'. 4. If the hook point does not meet the center of needle scarf means the 'needle bar' is lower or upper. What to do is just loosen the 'needle bar' and adjust it up or down until the 'needle scarf' meets the 'hook point of shuttle'. While doing this adjustment try not to move the 'hand wheel'. 5. I want to notice the very little 3 mm ascending movement loosens the upper thread and make a 'loop' that is caught by the 'hook point' of shuttle. Hope it helps.
Yes, they are. These machines are similar with their mechanisms to set the timing: 545, 145, 1245. I also have realized the 545 is lightly older than 1245-706. 145 is much older version.
Thank you Cechaflo, I timed my Pfaff 545 using your tutorial and now works perfect and smoothly
This was super helpful! I noticed my PFAFF 145 H2 was running a little rough. I did all the basic adjustments before going deeper and no improvement. All it took was a small adjustment to the needle bar and the issue was resolved. She hasn’t stitched this nice in a long while. Thank you so much for creating this video.
Thank you for posting this video. I have a Pfaff 1245 and your demonstration of how to adjust the timing is much easier to understand than reading the manual!
Since I started watching your tutorials a few weeks ago I have been looking for a walking foot machine. Even used ones are expensive. By diligent searching I was able to buy a neglected, but complete Pfaff 145 H3 for $50.00. Thanks to this video, I was able to disassemble and clean it then time it and it is now working great. Thank you for all your excellent videos!
If doing some maintenance the machines come back to their former glory. Irons last more than us!
A few years ago I bought a leather skiving machine 100 years old abandoned in a corner of a shoemaker'shop.
I knew this ruined machine could recover its former glory and that is why it is now:
th-cam.com/video/fx_XuIHcO50/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching the videos!
FABULOUS video !!! I've had this Pfaff forever and never had any trouble that I couldn't solve--until yesterday, when I knocked it off it's timing. I don't have time to be without it--so I looked at this video. I'm back in business today because of it !! Thanks so much for posting this !! David (in St.Mary's Bay NL,Canada)
Hello David, I am so glad these videos are useful!
Welcome to this channel anytime!
Canada a great country! My English teacher, and forever friend is Canadian (from British Columbia) We have a friendship for more than 30 years.
Greetings from Mexico!
Sincere thanks. You saved me serious down time. My 1245 now runs considerably better, and I look forward to watching all of your tutorials. My respect and gratitude to you.
Excellent tutorial. People who do not understand how it works after watching this should not be screwing around with these great machines. I have a one needle Pfaff 146 (so effectively a 145). When I got it the thread kept breaking. Then a professional told me that it could be that the hook was touching the needle. The needle then gets hot and your thread breaks. Turns out he was right. So I got out my screwdrivers and did most of what you showed in this video. The 50 year old machine has now been running for a couple of years like it is brand new.
Thanks for kind comment!
This video not only showed me how to fix the timing of my 545, it gave me confidence to take it apart! The way your video is constructed and explained walked me right through the procedure. I didn't have to shlep my machine to the technicians business and wait five days!!! Thank you very much!!! Please, please keep up the great work and make more videos of machine maintenance and repair. The sewing is a learning process but if my machine is down or not working properly, I'm dead in the water. Thank you for taking the time make to make this!!!
Dear friend, I really appreciate your kind comment!
I am glad the video is useful!
Welcome to this channel anytime!
I like this machine its good for leather ..im formerly service technician of pfaff phil.under zuellig philippines. and stamm intl.
Great video, I timed my 145 with your video, and it sews great! Thank You
I have a PFAFF 546 H3 which is a dual needle walking foot, while i was sewing the screws on the large bevel gear underneath came loose so shuttle going nowhere, I spent a lot of frustrating time to no avail to fix the timing, i eventually came to your video which i am grateful for, thanks for the info.
I am glad the video was useful!
Thanks for watching!
Clear and easy to follow. Pfaff machines are worth every cent.
th-cam.com/video/U3HBXBDDKoo/w-d-xo.html
This was very helpfull and saved me lots of money to get it fixed (as we only got one service center in the whole country....!). Thanks a lot for taking the time to make this video. It might help others to know, that to align the needle and the hook, I found tiny markings (holes) on each gears to where the hook and the needle meet. They were not easy to find under alle the greasing stuff, but they surely made the timing much easier on my Pfaff 545.
I'm so glad the video is useful! ...Thanks for watching the videos!
Great video! I knocked my machine out of timing due to operator error and HATE taking it into a local shop for repairs, they have a week wait. I was able to re-time my machine in about an hour after watching this, it works great now I have a pfaff 145.
+William Simmons Hi William, I 'm so glad that my video was useful for you!!!...thanks so much for this positive comment!!!
Вы большой молодец!
Хорошо настроили машинку, хотелось бы научиться! Спасибо! Danke schon! Gut arbeit.
Thank you! I forgot how to put the upper thread in my old Pfaff 17473 from 1966. I use it about once a year and to day was that day! You saved my day!! =D
Perfection. As always. I am so envious of your knowledge. Thank you once again for sharing it with us. You are the only one willing to share the in depth procedures. So thank you thank you cechaflo. Ps. My boyfriend is starting to get jealous of you. I spend more time watching your videos than with him!! Hahaha!♡♡♡ I told him I'm learning. He said, "You don't even have a sewing machine like that!" Lol. Take care. Hope you guys are staying healthy.♡
Thank you so much. It's a transforming experience from the the machine owning me, to me owning the machine! 🤩
Thanks you saved a lot of folks a lot of money
hello Cesar, it was very helpfull for me even my machine is not the same (it is a Pfaff345 H3) with a walking foot.
Your video gave me the good way to put in time this machine and it now sew perfectly.
thank you again, Alain.
I'm glad the video was useful for you!
Thank you so much for this video. I've been trying to get rid of the harsh sound on my machine for over a month. Now it's sewing like a dream!
+John Bigsby I'm glad the video was useful for you! ...When the 'hook point' is lightly backwards, hence, 'upper tension' has to be tightened more to get an even lockstitch...so, the thread is too tensioned, and causes the 'annoying harsh sound'.
Thanks for following us on our channel!
Maestro gracias por compartir su conocimiento dios lo bendiga.....solo que yo soy mexicana y no sé hablar inglés...y soy su seguidora
I learned a great deal from your efforts... thank you so much. May blessings rain down upon you and yourhousehold.
Check the auto opener, and check the area where the bobbin base meets the underside of the needle plate. The auto opener may be pulling too much - causing the thread to bind up - causing you to add more tension. The bobbin case tension could also be too tight.
this video helped (somewhat) me fix my pfaff computerized (ambition essential) machine. thank u!
Большое спасибо за ваши уроки! Всегда с удовольствием смотрю!
señor cesar despues de tanto tiempo... y asesoria suya! logre conseguir una maquina triple transporte, como le habia comentado hace mas de un año la situacion economica en mi pais y practicamente todo aqui es cada vez mas dificil (venezuela) pero logre adquirir una PFAFF 145, segun lei es la version antigua de esta maquina! seguire observando sus videos para aprender como en si.... se usa y se le hace servicio y mantenimiento!
neoholland que bueno aprender este oficio
This works for a Pfaff 545! Thank you!!!
muito obrigado pela aula, vídeo muito claro, e que bela máquina essa! salutos desde Londrina Brasil, Carlos
Muchas gracias por ver los videos!
This video just saved my day.... THANK YOU
Fantastic knowledge you teach, and brilliant ,camera work, thank you both,
Do you have any tutorials on the 45k1 singer and the 132k6 as I use both but each with there own issues,
I also would like to know is there any tricks to stop my two machines leaving upper dog feed and lower foot marks on the leather,
I have never had those Singer machines you are mentioning. After watching and reading some information I have realized they are very powerful, heavy duty sewing machines. Regarding your question my opinion is the feed dog and presser foot teeth leave marks on the leather material because the pressure spring is too tightened. Loosen it a little bit.
@@Cechaflo ok cheers
@@piecetoyou8285 Our Best Wishes and Happy New Year 2024!!!
What a brilliant video this is
This other video is related and it seems more clear.
th-cam.com/video/pQGPdiY6m9U/w-d-xo.html
Hi Sir,Nicely executed I love it when it moves all in sink it must be a good feeling. If you ever get the chance and you are willing to show,could you film setting the timing on a machine when it has two bobbing cases either side of each other please.
+wow dude I'd like to.
Thank you maestro Cesar!!! Unbelievable!!! So helpful!! Bravo!!
Señor Cesar: According to an old Pfaff Owner's Manual, the machine requires needle "Subclass -706/05; -706/07: needle system 134-35. Subclass -706/47: needle system *190*." (190 r; MT x 190) Like yours, my Pfaff 1245-706/48 also came adjusted with a 135-17. I asked Groz-Beckert about the lengths of the two different needle systems and this was their reply:
"The needle systems 190 and 135x17 are exact, except for the length of the needle.
190 - 44.5 mm in length from the top of the eye to the top of the shank. 2.0 mm shank diameter.
135x17 - 38.9 mm in length from the top of the eye to the top of the shank. 2.0 mm shank diameter. The entire length of the needle is never mentioned when checking needles for a specific machine.
Unfortunately, the longer the needle, the better chance of having skipped stitches, or breaking a needle, exists. Many times the extra length on the 190 is not needed for the sewing operation. Many mechanics will lower the needle bar height 5.6 mm to accommodate the 135x17 needles. By doing this they reduce the chances of the problems mentioned above. Plus, the 190 needles are limited to a very small availability of sizes and point styles. On the other hand, the 135x17 needles offer a wide array of sizes and point styles."
So there are the trade-offs. Given the nature of the work you perform on the machine (slower speed with greater control, and precision, not high-speed production) the issue of skipped stitches may not be a factor.
What do you think? Thank you for your excellent videos! Muchas Gracias!
A local supplier recommended and sold me this needle size:photos.app.goo.gl/OXy61tSDRivoIZez2
photos.app.goo.gl/L4cFcdXvX1CcKjHk2
Hola Señor César. I have a .pdf copy of the original Instruction Manual for your model of the Pfaff 1245, that was scanned by the Keystone Sewing Machine Company. If you want a copy, give me an e-mail and I will send it to you. You might find it an interesting reference.
Hello Mr. Clinton, I also have found similar information for the 1245 Pfaff:
keysew.com/Webpages/Owners&PartsBooks/OwnersBooks/1245%20Owners%20Old%20Case.pdf
www.manualslib.com/manual/121969/Pfaff-1245.html
I really appreciate your assistance!
Thanks for the video. How do you know that the set screws will be on the grooves of the hook shaft when you loosen them to free the hook? I loosened the set screws to time it and it gets out of time after a short while because the set screws do not aligned with the grooves after I move the hook around to align it to the needle scarf. Thanks for your advice. Very helpful videos!
In fact the timing is done with the 'small gear'. It is not necessary to move the bigger gear. As you can see the small gear has two set screws. When both of them are loose the shuttle axis is free and can be moved back and forth.
th-cam.com/video/lGhoOsr91rk/w-d-xo.html
This shaft has no grooves to place the set screws. The shaft is thoroughly rounded.
After going the needle bar 2 mm approx. upwards considering the ascending movement, the hook point should meet the center of needle scarf above the needle eye. At his moment, you should carefully tighten one of the set screws. The other is hidden behind and after tightening the first one you would turn the big wheel to find the other screw to also be tightened.
I hope this information is useful.
We have another related timing video:
th-cam.com/video/pQGPdiY6m9U/w-d-xo.html
awesome job my friend thank you so much because now i will be able to fix my own pfaff 145 sewing machine/ / excellente trabajo amigo e aprendido mucho con este video y ahora podre reparar my propia maquina muchas grasias ,
Me da mucho gusto que los videos sean de utilidad.
Grazie, Maestro!
Thanks for the helpful videos..just recently used them to overhaul a 1245 706/46... Looking to get a synchronized binder...can't figure out of the feed dog and plate listed for a model with a thread trimmer will work with my older model without one...would you happen to know? This video leads me to believe yes, but I haven't seen the inner workings of a newer model with the thread trimmer
My machines are old version and do not have the thread trimmer.
@@Cechaflo Mine as well, but I can only find a binder needle plate for one with a thread trimmer...didn't know if it would work on my older machine
@@reckonill www.tnattachmentco.com/
Hi Cesar! I have followed your video here for my Pfaff 545-H3… I can get it running and all threads look good… then I might get some threads that bunch up and it’s all out of time? I even have to move the rotary hook closer again… my question is… when you place your needle bar down in lowest position, to make sure it is close enough to the belly of the rotary hook and that the rotary hook is in the middle of the needle… what if my needle bar is way out of where it should be? I know this won’t make sense… but I have marked a 3 mm line a couple of times from the lowest dead point and now I have 2 different lines???
In fact, the 545-H3 is very similar to the 1245-706 Or perhaps much more powerful than a Pfaff 1245
Regarding your question it could happen that the needle bar is not tightened enough. The little set screw that fastens the needle bar would need to be tightened a bit more. If so, after sewing hard materials the needle bar moves upwards a little bit.
Спасибо (Thank You)
hola Cesar gracias por leerme y contestarme tan pronto hoy en estos momentos te estoy viendo con el tema del
mantenimiento, calibrado y puesta a punto de tus maquinas de coser,y es como si yo me estaria viendo en un espejo clavadito,todo igual, creo que llevas años el oficio ¿40? no se ya me diras pero se ve que eres de la vieja escuela saludos cordiales " ARTISTA"
another outstanding tutorial!!!! muchisimas gracias por todo que haces!!!
You are welcome to the channel! Happy New Year 2017!
Gracia's a este video e arreglado 3 De mis maquinas
MIL Gracias maestro por compartir y por su tiempo
Can you do a video on how the tension release is supposed to be hooked up when the presser foot is lifted. I can not find anywhere how all of it goes together and how and when it works. Thanks for all your video’s!!!
If I am right you are referring to the 'little pin' that is placed in the center hole of the bigger half cut threaded bolt. If the take up lever is lifted it puts in action a mechanism that pushes this little pin frontwards.
This little pin pushes the small black disc with slot guide (th-cam.com/video/_KIJbS4khyo/w-d-xo.html) releasing the tension of the thread.
At this time of the video you can clearly see the little pin in the back inside the center of the half cut bolt.
th-cam.com/video/_KIJbS4khyo/w-d-xo.html
If the original is lost, you could make a new one out of a wood nail or thick sewing needle(10 mm long approx.)
I hope this information helps.
i recently change the belt just put in and didnt have to check feed timing or top dead centre easy fit and go
Are there any instructions or tips on how to change the timing belt for this machine? Thank you for your contribution Cechaflo!
I have no related video on youtube. Some useful drawings on 3.03 page of the manual:www.universalsewing.com/images2/parts_lists/all/6ihfjkle.pdf
As far as I know, it would no be a big deal to change this belt. Before purchasing the belt verify it is compatible to your machine.
www.amazon.com/Industrial-Sewing-Machine-Timing-16-410918-05/dp/B075XNCRD1
www.aliexpress.com/item/32950507719.html
@@Cechaflo That's very helpful. Probably also a good idea to make my own marks on the pulley and gear prior to swapping the belt. Thanks again
Thanks for your video
This machine is very similar to my pfaff 545 H3, I'm wondering if the same method of timing would / should work????
Yes, your sewing machine is very similar to 1245-706/47.
The timing method works out for it. This is a related newest video:
th-cam.com/video/pQGPdiY6m9U/w-d-xo.html
This is helpful. I wish you where talking while showing what you were doing. But very clear. Thanks
+azbikerider49 Thanks for watching...I will take into account your suggestion.
Thank you so much for this!
Good video but would be a great video if you added voice to what you were doing and thinking of doing! Cheers
Do you have a separate video on how you take the bobbin and shuttle out?
These links might be useful:
✅ th-cam.com/video/_KIJbS4khyo/w-d-xo.html
✅ th-cam.com/video/pQGPdiY6m9U/w-d-xo.html
@@Cechaflo thank you. I spent abit of time today on my Pfaff 156 post bed today. I got it working thanks to your video after 9-10 times adjusting it couldn't figure out why it kept slipping after 2 layers of leather . Figured I just had to grind flat the ends to those 2 screw that was on the shuttle gear. But besides that I had to reposition the hook to the needle . The rest of your video was very informative for future problems.
great video i have a pfaff 1245 and this will be helpful
+Chris M, I think so, Chris! ...Thanks for watching!
I’ve just purchased a Pfaff 145 and it seems to sew pretty well. In many circumstances at different stitch length, thread and needle combinations. The upper tensions gets loose when sewing in reverse. Any tips as to why?
I have a video about tensions hopefully, it is useful. th-cam.com/video/_KIJbS4khyo/w-d-xo.html
Do a test on a piece of paper to check the stitch length with no thread on the machine. The same distance would be forwards and backwards. The needle point should enter the same holes. If it does not meet the same hole it means the small presser foot should be regulated to touch the feed dog on time to travel forwards or backwards.
Pregunta?. Porque salta puntada la maquina 1245 cuando se colocan perfiles plásticos.
En cuero, vinilo o ecocuero cose normal.
Ya revisamos el gancho y esta bien a punto e inicia su cruce al inicio ese la muesca de la aguja.
Muchas gracias por la orientación o colaboración que me puedan dar.
Si usamos una aguja delgada, la aguja si perfora al plástico, pero este se mantiene apretado/adherido a la aguja y no permite que el hilo se suelte debajo al ascenso de la barra de aguja y forma el 'bucle' que agarra el gancho y hacer el 'locstitch'. La solución es coser plásticos con una aguja mas gruesa, para que el hilo corra suelto y forme su 'bucle'.
Hello , I am Stefan , I have a Pfaff 145 with a painful small bobin. Is it posible to change the rotary hook wit a big one from Pfaff 1245-706? Kind regards!
The Pfaff 145 bobbin is slightly shorter:www.amazon.com/Cutex-Brand-Bobbins-Sewing-Machines/dp/B01AETIG8O#:~:text=The%20Metric%20measurements%20for%20this,of%20PFAFF%20Industrial%20Sewing%20Machines.
The Pfaff 1245 bobbin is slightly bigger:www.amazon.com/Cutex-Capacity-Bobbins-Sewing-Machines/dp/B09FKGJF3B#:~:text=The%20Metric%20measurements%20for%20this,MM%20Wide%20and%2011MM%20Thick.
I really do not know if it is possible to change the rotary hook from a Pfaff 1245
Unfortunately I do not have a Pfaff 145 for the testing if it is possible.
Hi Cechaflo, I have found all your videos very helpful, thank you for taking the time to make and upload them. I have recently bought a Brother 837 Walking foot machine for my upholstery business, on the whole it sews very nicely but on occasion it randomly skips some stitches. I have tried all the obvious fixes (new/correct needle, tensions etc) but wondered if you could advise where to try next. In between the skipped stitches it sews perfectly. Thanks again. Ray :-)
+Mackenzie Upholstery Hi Ray, Sometimes, the 'skipping issue' is caused when the 'hook point' is not close enough to the 'needle scarf' and at the time of sewing the needle bends a little and the mentioned 'hook point' does not reach the 'upper thread loop'...the solution is move the 'hook point' closer to 'needle scarf'.
On the other hand, perhaps, the 'hook point' is not catching the 'thread loop' on time (too fast), so, you have to move the 'hook mechanism' a little backwards to allow the needle form the 'thread loop' while its ascending movement(2,...3 mm)
+Cechaflo Thanks for your reply. I think I have managed to solve the issue. On close inspection i think your second suggestion was the problem. Rather than mess around with the hook mechanism on this occassion I adjusted the needle bar down a fraction and it has not dropped a stich since. Thanks again for your time and help ☺
+Mackenzie Upholstery Hi Ray, great you've found a fast solution for the skipping issue. A more steady solution would be to move the 'needle bar' the same 'little fraction' downwards.
You are welcome anytime!
Thank you so much for this wonderful tutorial! I have followed the tutorial but my hook seems to catch or stop at random and I am still unable to keep my machine in time. Do you have any suggestions?
Bien explicado felicidades bien maestro
Gracias por la información estaremos pendientes de su canal que contribuye al aprendizaje gracias a su buena voluntad
I have the same machine the timming is good but I have a little problem. My stitch length always seems to small. I have set the length on the adjustment knob and the lever on the back of the machine. Any other tips ?
Sometimes, the issue happens when the presser feet are not synchronized
@@Cechaflo I'll give that a try! Thank you for the quick response.
I have a Pfaff 1245-706/48 that needs to have some cleaning, and I wonder since it's only a digit of difference with mine I wonder if i can apply the same
The mechanisms are similar and you can do the same process on your Pfaff machine. This other video is also helpful to understand the timing process: th-cam.com/video/pQGPdiY6m9U/w-d-xo.html
@@Cechaflo Thank you! I will study both your videos. I am new to the field, and I hope to add extra life to this beautiful machine.
I have an extra question. Do you have any sources for the tables?
@@ThatTacoLady I do not know, sorry. I am located in Mexico. Hopefully, if you are in the USA:
www.sailrite.com/Sewing-Machines/Sailrite-Sewing-Machine-Parts/Table-Stands/Sewing-Machine/Fabricator
Perhaps, it would be necessary to elongate the hollow part of the machine to make your machine head fit perfectly.
A carpenter can do a new one for you or to restore the table of your machine have by putting over a new formica.
A yellow glue is useful to stick formica to a wood table: th-cam.com/video/o2xeezdF8Ss/w-d-xo.html
@@Cechaflo Very useful information! Thank you!
According to every document I can find on the 1245 706/47 the proper needle is mtx190. Why are you using different needles than it was designed for ?
The machine Pfaff 1245.706) of the video is an old version.Similar versions are the 545 and an older one the 145. The new version of this model is the Pfaff, just called 1245. The needle sizes for these models go from 110=18 (92 thread size) to 140/150=22 (138 thread size) www.pfaff-industrial.com/en/portfolio/sewing-machines/flat-bed-heavy-duty/pfaff1245
But as these machines are heavy duty they can work out with thicker needles depending on the thickness of the material. Most of the upholsterers are aware of this option.
I bought this used machine in 2009 and it is still in good condition, despite it being used before for 30 years approx. When I sew thin materials I can use needles from 90=14 until 110=18 without any problem.
I do the same with thicker needles when I have to sew thick and hard materials that could bend a thinner needle.
Amigo de pura casualidad ud sabe si en una Pfaff 146 las partes del pie alimentador etc son intercambiables con la 1246 mas q nada viendo la posibilidad de tener varios gauges en la apertura de la aguja
Cualquier informacion sera agradecida
Una disculpa, pero desconozco esta información.
Для этой процедуры (перемещение острия крючка ближе / дальше к игольному шарфу) необходимо было ослабить «вертикальную большую шестерню» сейчас, «острие крючка» достаточно близко к «игольному шарфу».
чтобы он оставался на месте, осторожно затяните «регулировочные болты».
Я собираюсь ослабить установочные винты маленькой шестерни, чтобы освободить челнок.
1. Установите «игольницу» в крайнее нижнее положение (нижняя мертвая точка).
2. Теперь поднимите планку на 3 мм вверх и удерживайте ее.
3 Теперь вам нужно совместить «острие челнока» с центром «иглы». Напоминаю, что челнок движется свободно, поэтому я могу разместить «точку крючка» точно в нужной части.
4. Осторожно затяните два винта один за другим.
5. Следующая процедура - определить высоту «игловодителя».
Итак, прежде чем что-либо делать, убедитесь, что «игла» выровнена с «острием крючка», как и в предыдущем шаге, на 3 мм вверх.
6. Слегка ослабьте «регулировочный болт» игловодителя, не позволяя ему упасть.
7. Мы можем слегка косить «игольную планку» вверх и вниз, пока «игольная коса» не встретится с «острием крючка» над ее ушком (в центре).
8. Теперь затяните регулировочный болт игловодителя.
9. Установите пластиковые крышки на место.
10. «Мизинец / носок» челнока должен войти в «канавку» под «узкой игольной пластиной».
Это не часть процедуры поднятия, а когда я разбирал транспортер. Я снова это отрегулировал.
Это тоже не часть явки. В нижней и задней части есть болт, который регулирует «тонкий рычаг» в передней части, где проходит нить (поэтому, если он настроен, не трогайте его).
I love pfaff machine
Thanks for watching the video!
Bunā Ziua!!
Sunt tapițer si mi-am cumpārat un PFAFF 1245-706/47 vreau o pārere este o mașinā bunā si fiabilā?
Vā salut cu respect!!
It is a strong and trustable machine if it is in good condition and set up.
@@Cechaflo the machine looks perfect. it still needs small adjustments, I got it thanks to your review. for me you are an idol and I respect you for everything you do!! Greetings!
buenas tardes señor cesar, yo tengo una pfaff 136- 2bs creo que es una maquina muy buena, su puntada maxima es 5.5 mm, ahora tengo la posibilidad de comprarme una de triple arrastre, pero tengo 2 opciones, la 1245 y la 1246, a 1/4 ,me las dan en el mismo precio pero no se cual sea mas versatil, o mas facil de manejar ,si la de una o la de 2 agujas? usted que. opina? me gustaria mucho saber su opinion! saludos de Leon Guanajuato!
Hi Cechaflo! You have been doing a incradible inspiring job! So I dicde to step forward and buy a real machine for the job! Is the Pfaff 1245-706/07 much diferent or worst from this one you use at this video? Thank you so much for evething you have been doing!
+TV Plus You are welcome! ...I'm so glad my videos were and are an inspiration for you!
señor el video no tiene voz y las explicaciones son en inglés me quedé igual
I have a 545 h4 and it's skipping stitches does the same procedure apply?
Yes, the process is similar. This is a related video:
th-cam.com/video/pQGPdiY6m9U/w-d-xo.html
Did you take the gearboxes off and leave them off? The reason I ask is I can’t get them to stay bolted on
It is not necessary to remove the gearboxes. I only did it for instructional purpose.
This other review video is related:
th-cam.com/video/pQGPdiY6m9U/w-d-xo.html
@@Cechaflo do I need to put them back on? They just won’t stay on that’s why I ask. If they are needed.
@@PuffStitch I have not understood the question, sorry. Are you referring to the plastic case that houses the gear mechanisms? aren't you?
Does the hand wheel supposed to be 100% easy to spin ? I have some spots of my PFAFF 145 wheels where it is a bit harder to turn. Like the hand wheel is not 100% free spinning with some tight spots.
The hand wheel is linked to the clutch motor by a rubber belt. I would suggest you to check it out first with no rubber belt. Next, check it out with the belt attached to the motor clutch pulley. After doing this you would realize what is wrong.
@@Cechaflo yes this is without the belt attached and there is just one spot where the handwheel spin is not 100% free like it is rubbing against metal. Thank you for the video, I am going to try to time my 145 according to.your very detailed tutorial video. I also have oiled every moving parts but the hand wheel.is still not 100% free spinning.
Thank you! Got the bigger picture
Thanks for watching!
super
Haga un tutorial con poste de 2 agujas saludos desde Lima Perú
Muchas gracias por la sugerencia. Por el momento solo tenemos 2 videos que muestran una máquina de poste, triple arrastre de dos agujas.
th-cam.com/video/vU4mAuH1y_U/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/gvUmmyz2tRA/w-d-xo.html
Is there anything I can do if my machine won't stitch forward after using a back stitch? It is like it doesn't go the other way even though the lever is down.
Please I also have Adler 167-73 sewing machine buy I master how to use it
Gracias por estos videos! como siempre veo sus videos y trato de aprender! antes le había mencionado que gracias a sus videos me he interesado bastante en aprender a tapizar! y bueno he estado buscando bastante maquinas industriales usadas para comenzar! y creo que comprare una PFAFF 463!! vengo a preguntarle primero a usted maestro! ya que no se si la maquina sea buena para trabajos como los que veo aquí en su canal de youtube! me dijeron que esa me serviría pero la verdad preferiría preguntarle primero a usted que es el que de verdad sabe! sino que otra maquina o cual maquina pfaff podría recomendar para coser cuero o que me ayude a hacer trabajos como los que usted aqui nos enseña¿? por lo menos para empezar! después si dios quiere cambiaría a una mas avanzada!
+Xiomara Velasquez Me parece bien la máquina, para empezar a hacer tapicería, es sencilla, pero muy fuerte para coser materiales como el cuero/piel; mas adelante podría comprar otra industrial de triple arrastre. No vaya a pagar mucho por la máquina... un aproximado de 200 a 300 dólares a lo mucho y tiene que estar en buen estado, con su mesa y motor (es precio aprox en México).
th-cam.com/video/AI5hNCPcy5w/w-d-xo.html
Gracias por ver nuestros videos!
Onde comprar uma máquina dessas?
Vi un video donde su máquina tiene placa como para darle la distancia al material cuando va cosiendo Usted fabricó la placa de metal, puede hacer un tutorial sobre cómo hacerla gracias de antemano
Hello !
I bought a Pfaff 1245 and was rebuilding it with the help of my Machine Repair instructor, Tim.
Tim has sadly passed away.
I was working on an above-deck issue that involved the Needle Bar Cradle and I don’t know what happened...
The Walking Foot doesn’t walk.
I boldly tried to adjust it, by changing the timing on the rods behind the sewing machine.
Now, there isn’t anything in the Pfaff 1245 Manual about those rods.
Do you have any videos about a full teardown?
We were planning to do a full-teardown and rebuild.
Tim’s graduation exam was to strip the machine to parts, throw them in a bucket of grease and rebuild it within two hours.
So I know there is a way to adjust everything from scratch, but I don’t know where to look for this information.
In fact you have a good sewing machine. It is just matter of putting the pieces together to let it run again.
I think the most advisable would be to have the help of another technician. Unfortunately, I do no have more related videos to help, sorry.
great explanation, thanks!
Thanks for watching!
@@Cechaflo I'm trying to improve my sewing machine, brother LT2-B832-3. The problem is less tight stitches, or even overtight without a balance between the top & bottom threads. In the manual the normal needle size is dpx5, but I will try dpx17 like this video of yours. my question after watching this video: How come the dpx17 needle which is 1.5mm different from dpx5 can make changes to the stitches? "still thinking ... learning ....
Geri Syandra Yusman I only would say if a needle goes down through too deep it would be necessary to place the rotary hook lightly backwards. In other words it would be delayed too much.
The needle should descend down through just enough to a dead point to start the ascending movement (no more than 2 mm) to form the upper thread loop that would be caught by the hook.
Between the needle point and needle eye there is a little belly that should almost rub another belly of lateral wall of rotary hook. This happens precisely at the milimetrical ascending movement. This protruding side helps to stand the thread forming the loop that would immediately caught by the hook point.
Perhaps the needle of your machine is ok and the issue would be that the hook is not catching the loop faster. It could happen the needle is going too deep. Of course, it catches the thread loop and sew, but some failures appear.
Boa tarde..
O modelo da pfaff de 2 agulha E normal a lancadeira ter uma folga .engraxei a maquina e ficou mais macia ,obrigado pela ajuda
What is your opinon of the New Pfaff 1245 machines, I'm thinking of buying a new one instead of taking a chance on a used machine.... love your videos!
Thanks for sharing with us useful information!
Hello Charlotte, Sorry for delay! ...I only would say the new series 1245 Pfaff machines are manufactured in China and I have realized they get old in a bad way. They are not the same as the old machines manufactured in Germany. Of course, at the beginning, they look impecable flawless. It is only an opinion, you take the last decision.
Thanks for watching these videos!
You are welcome anytime!
Thanks for watching these mute videos(lol)!
You are welcome anytime!
your talk very well with your hands and pointer !!!
can a 1245-706/48 sew 7mm vegetable tanned leather ?
Yes, it can. Johnny does a demonstration on his 1245 (new version)
th-cam.com/video/VcpzEw9-6e8/w-d-xo.html
@@Cechaflo Thanks for the reply. Your videos have really helped me work on mine. I will be setting up the presser foot lift next.
Hello, any chances of giving me a hand please? My Pfaff 335 clone has got 2 problems: the manual foot lift does not work and the walking foot does not make contact with the plate so the presser foot stays in the same point all the time and doesn’t not stitch anything. I have got videos that show the problem. Please help if you can, thank you
I'd be glad to help if it is possible. Please, send videos to this comment section.
The spec for needle bar height to hook timing is 1mm above needle eye for the 47. Do you get better performance with middle of scarf?
What needle do you use for that? I would like to take up upholstery and my father has the same machine. I find it hard to find the needle. I want to do vinyl and sofa fabrics TY
According to Pfaff 1245 manual, needle system is 134-35. The correct sizes go from 110 (european measure)=18 (Singer or american measure), 120=20, 130=21, 140=22, 160=23, to 180=24.
For thin materials, could use a 18, 120 Medium size material a 21, 22 Heavy materials a 160, 180
th-cam.com/video/vtfrcDS5WJQ/w-d-xo.html
For the projects you have in mind a 120=20 needle size would fit well. You could use standard upholstery thread 92 polyester.
There is a wing nut in the back to regulate the height of presser foot. It should go in the middle.
Threads:www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=polyester-thread-092
store.keysew.com/thread
hola cechaflo
muchas gracias por los videos
me gustaría conocer tu opinión sobre la maquina
de coser durkopp adler 267. estoy dudando si comprar esa máquina o la pfaff 1245.
gracias
Estimado Antoni, Las dos máquinas son muy buenas. Solamente Ud. tiene la última decisión. ¿Van a ser nuevas o usadas? Si son usadas tendría que basarse en el estado en que se encuentre cada una para decidir cual le conviene mejor; que tengas sus partes completas, etc. y el precio también tiene que ver.
My friend you have to explain what you are doing it's going to be much better
How do u thread 2-needle Pfaff 142 ind sewing machine?
I do not have a related video, sorry. I only have a one needle machine video:
th-cam.com/video/H4sOyVIYHt0/w-d-xo.html
Pfaff agent for 40 years this is wrong needle system 134-35 Not 135x17 is the correct needle for pfaff 1245
Thanks for sharing this useful information!
I have a 1245 706/47
I am confused about the needle system because I have seen two different callouts
I have seen the 134-35 called out in some service manuals for the 1245 in general
But I’ve also seen 190 needle system In a parts diagram for the 1245 706/47
And in the same parts diagram it shows 134-35 for the 1245 706/07
Can you please advise I’m not having any luck anywhere else
@@widget00
At the beginning of this video we clearly see the system 134-35 I use for my Pfaff 1245-706: th-cam.com/video/H4sOyVIYHt0/w-d-xo.html
Different needles I use to sew with my Pfaff 1245 .706.:
th-cam.com/video/vtfrcDS5WJQ/w-d-xo.html
Two more related videos,hopefully are somehow useful:
th-cam.com/video/pQGPdiY6m9U/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/_KIJbS4khyo/w-d-xo.html
شكرا عل شرح رائع👍👍
Thanks for watching this video!
Thank you, I am not sure how to add a video here as it does look like there is any facility to do that?
The videos should be uploaded in youtube andl links would be pasted to this section.
Otherwise, to our channel emailsite: cechaflo@gmail.com
Hello.. I have a Pfaff 1245-706/47 when the feed dog moves back and forth it stays at the same level it does not lower down at any time ...is this normal or should it be adjusted ?
I think the 'feed dog should be adjusted. When 'feed dog theeth' appear to the level of needle plate the 'small foot' touches these theeth to start together a 'travel' backwards dragging the cloth, vinyl, etc. This 'movement backwars' could be 2, 3, 4 or 5 mm according to 'stitch length set up'. When this dragging movement to the rear finishes, the 'feed dog teeth' 'should hide' beneath the needle plate until getting the front part again. That is when the teeth show up to start a 'new dragging'
Hope it helps.
Hola Cesar, hace mucho tiempo que no le escribo, pero siempre miro sus lindos vídeos. Algunas máquinas tienen un " feed dog" linear. O sea se mueve hacia atrás y hacia delante sin hundirse. En general son "binding machines " que tienen un "linear thrust feed "
Sin embargo funciona bastante bien. Solo hay que regularlo para que esté justo a nivel de la placa, no por encima.
Tengo una vieja Adler 67 FA 72, que es así. Me costó mucho tiempo entender porque el "Feed dog" no subía y no bajaba. Encontré respuestas en un blog muy bueno llamado "Leather worker.net". Mi máquina es una vieja 67 despojada de sus atributos FA que eran una cuchilla de corte de hilos automática. Venia medio desarmada y encima la dejaron caer y le quebraron la bancada, al traerla de Estados Unidos donde la compré en ebay.
Disculpe los términos en ingles ya que no conozco bien los nombres de las partes en castellano. Después de muchos años de tenerla olvidada y con salud delicada, decidí tratar de repararla. Siga inspirandonos.
@@ericbonduel2179
¡Le agradezco mucho por ver mis videos y encontrar algo de inspiración!
Se me hace un modelo curioso la máquina 'ribeteadora' que Ud. menciona. No la conozco.
Si Don Cesar, después de mucho buscar encontré explicaciones en Leatherworker.net ; si las vuelvo a encontrar se las mandaré a su correo. Hace años estuvimos correspondiendo, en la época en la cual eliminó sus primeros videos de TH-cam y le pregunté si aún tenía copias. Usted me dio ánimos cuando estaba convaleciente de una operación de corazón.
Amigo e tratado de averiguar en qué año se fabricó mi pfaff y no
Encontrado nada save de algunnsitio
Tampoco se con precisión en que año se fabricaron en Alemania estas máquinas de coser 1245-706/47. Si había escuchado que tienen algo mas de 30 años de uso.
En este foro hay alguna información al respecto. Parece que aparecieron a principios de los 80 leatherworker.net/forum/topic/69254-pfaff-1245-help/
Cechaflo gracias hermano
the longer needle is 190
hi. i have a quilting machine with multple stiching needles. its a new machine from china and its giving me lots of miss stitches. i have watched ur video which is very helpful to some extent. but i still have challenges timminf all 36 needles. what do u advice i do now?
I've no idea about a quilting machine...sorry. I think not easy to put it on time.
as always your videos are awesome my friend.
how low must the needle go at bottom dead center when you adjust the needle bar?
i have a pfaff 545 h3
Its height is measured by the hook point of the shuttle. The hook point should be precisely aligned in the center of needle scarf above the needle eye. To do this first alignment the shuttle should be loosen.
@@Cechaflo i cannot find a service manual in order to get the proper measurements for needle rise when doing the adjustments.
are the measurements given in the video correct for my 545 h3?
thanks for answering i greatly appreciate it.
Carlo Stromei I have realized procedures are similar for many of these machines. I have never had in my hands a 545H3, but it looks similar to mine.
1. By moving forwards the 'sewing machine hand wheel', the needle bar with its needle included goes down in a descending movement and finishes its run to a dead point (the crank-connecting rod mechanism finishes its run downwards to start an ascending movement)
2. If I continue moving forwards the 'hand wheel' in a very little rotation the 'needle bar' starts its running upwards. It should be no more than 3 mm.
3. When the needle bar has moved upwards no more than 3 mm I should stop and verify the 'hook point' meets the 'needle scarf' in the center. Let's notice the shuttle should be loose beforehand to freely rotate and make the hook point meets the 'needle scarf'.
4. If the hook point does not meet the center of needle scarf means the 'needle bar' is lower or upper. What to do is just loosen the 'needle bar' and adjust it up or down until the 'needle scarf' meets the 'hook point of shuttle'. While doing this adjustment try not to move the 'hand wheel'.
5. I want to notice the very little 3 mm ascending movement loosens the upper thread and make a 'loop' that is caught by the 'hook point' of shuttle.
Hope it helps.
@@Cechaflo thanks so much fornthe clarification my friend, i am finishing the timing as we speak.
all that is left now is the needle bar height :)
Great!
Is the Pfaff 545 much the same to set timing? I believe the 545 is just an older version of the 1245
Yes, they are. These machines are similar with their mechanisms to set the timing: 545, 145, 1245. I also have realized the 545 is lightly older than 1245-706. 145 is much older version.