This is the absolute best demonstration of how to do a RO system. I use DI for washing cars and the resin is EXPENSIVE and doesn't last long I have around 500-600 TDS in my water. This is absolutely AWESOME how you did this! I'm gonna do the same exact thing as you but being my water is terrible I might refresh my DI resin and run it through that also THANKS FOR THIS AWESOME VIDEO
Thanks for the kind words. I am glad it was able to help you out. The ONLY drawback to using an RO filter is-- you will NOT get the same amount of pressure/ water flow as you are used to with a DI-- but there are ways to increase the flow (I made a video about using a pump to push the water, which will let you definitely wash down cars/trucks)-- Keep in mind, I wash my truck with this system and its enough to clean it with no issues. I add a pump if I am running two of my water fed poles (see some of my other videos, I show you the difference in PSI as well). If you are filling up a tank, that won't apply-- it will just take the tank a little longer than say if you filled up with DI-- I average about .75 gallons a minute through the RO, whereas a DI you will get multiple gallons a minute 500-600 TDS will eat through resin big time-- Trust me, I've been there. An RO filter will most likely reduce that all the way down to 30-50-- and then you run THAT through your DI-- which means your resin is going to last A LOT longer-- which means, more cars/trucks washed- More money in your pocket!!!
Most of the parts i listed in the description are still available-- if you have any questions, feel free to message me back on here-- I am not a rocket scientist and I was able to assemble this in about a half hour. It's been 2+ years, and it works as good as it did when I built it back in early 2020.
Thanks for watching! I actually have a new video I am going to upload about this. I recently changed the RO filter that was in there after 3 years of use. The video I am going to upload shows you how to remove and replace it, in more of a real-time situation (It shows how to pretty much install and replace the filter)
Great presentation starting with the 1 of 2 videos you made regarding how and where to attach the connections, I used to build RO/DI systems for the window cleaning & mobile detail guys and a few other industries. I always added a carbonator pump to my systems as the tds defiantly varies day to day zip code to zip code. I pushed my ro membrane to 145-160 psi using the Axeon hf5 4040 ro membrane as the high tds areas around here were 500+and and get 3-7 ppm.with that kind of pressure it makes the rinsing much faster. For a person wanting to get into the WFP cleaning aspect for residential window cleaning you cant beat the cost for that kind of system you built for less than $ 700. Yes some people are pretty set on by having 0 PPM ..... I think the DI add on is a waste of money for residential / Commercial window cleaning.
Thank you for watching. I agree, the RO membrane from Axeon pretty much takes everything out of the water. My tap is around 290, after RO is is about 7-13tds. If I go to a home that has good quality water (100 or below TDS)....It literally reads 0-1TDS. I have been running this HF5 for over 3 years now and have yet to have to change anything-- other than a carbon filter every 3-4 months (Just to be safe). I DID add a DI tank-- BUT only because I already HAD it sitting around and extra resin! I figured why not use the resin, instead of let it go bad-- that was about 18 months ago...it reads 1TDS still! Another backup in case I run into a home with VERY low pressure in a pinch-- It's there! BUT, it is NOT needed for where I live. I understand people love to say they have 0TDS. Some others in different areas of the country do tell me that the water quality is so bad, RO alone won't reduce what's in there. I can't speak for other people, only my OWN experiences! At the time, I believe the cost came to be about 550 dollars for everything-- with inflation now I'd imagine it is 700. People suggest that one is "being cheap" going this route-- I look at it getting more for less. I have compared this "cheap" system to a 2000+ system, there is no difference-- OTHER than the trolley and accessories. The money you would save would allow you to buy a high quality water fed pole and hose...and get to work. You can put a sling setup on this RO and make it a shoulder sling for transport. It weighs a lot less than a 3/4 DI TANK, I can guarantee you that. If this system caused spots, I would imagine by now I would get complaints. I get none, just spot-free results!!!! I agree with you 100 percent
@@kdwindowcleaning Your absolutely right about everything you said. Its pretty much the same set up i have for my own set up that i run off a 275 gl water tote and gravity feed it to a cheap ryobi pressure washer to clean off my sxs's and truck. Run a booster pump off the water tote to 250ft of 5/16 hose for my wtp to clean my windows on my house. Whats funny is i get window cleaning companies that do cold calling and say they can clean my windows for x amount and i show them my system set up and they dont know what to say besides asking me if i would build them a system.
Hey Louie, thanks for watching. If I recall correctly, the "outlet" for the RO (which is where the filtered water comes out of) is 3/4NPT-- I simply used an adapter than turns it from 3/4NPT to 3/4ght (garden hose size). I then ran a clear tube hose that was I believe 3/8inch to my DI tank -- my DI tank had 3/4GHT fittings. Everything can be purchased at any hardware store-- I am not 100 percent if it was 1/2 or 3/4-- it has been about 3+ years since I assembled this I am certain the threads in the RO are NPT, just not exactly remembering if it was 1/2 or 3/4.
Ahmed sorry I am late to reply. You can control the ratio of waste water with the water faucet attachment-- I found it at home depot for about 12 dollars-- it is 3/4 inch and will connect to the end of the RO housing-- I simply turn the handle to adjust the ratio. Just like you would turn the water on/off at your outside hose area
Did you figure out what happened? I think you did because you had messaged me a few days ago-- just making sure. Water should come out of the outlet tube-- hopefully you got it straightened out!
I remember you showed me that it took it all the way down to 9 TDS or so-- A DI tank would last you a VERY long time at that low TDS. I dont have the official numbers, but it should produce thousands of gallons of pure water- even a very small DI tank will last a long time before the resin would "go bad" . Keep in mind, it's not needed where I live-- your water may vary though! If you were going to put it on a trolley, if you wanted to be 100 percent sure, a very small DI tank could be mounted on the trolley-- this would give you a traditional 3-stage system-- But it's not needed all the time!!!!!
Hey, sure. Email Kenny@kdwindowcleaning.com. I check my mailbox all the time. It's pretty simple to assemble keep in mind some of these parts may not be the same price as they were when I made that video couple years ago (inflation).
Hey MKEprowash, Merry Christmas! The hose was bought from a place called CWC Window Supply-- it's called the Viper hose-- It is 10mm inner diameter compared to the 8mm inner diameter that comes with all the poles standard. Someone messaged me last week and said they don't sell it anymore-- but you can find this at places like Ace hardware and some other local area
cwcsupplyusa.com/viper-hose-1-4-blue-per-ft/ 1/4 I.D. x 3/8" O.D.-- they got bought out by WCR...and don't see this being for sale anymore...what a bummer, this is the best hose I have ever used for WFP. It is the only one that allowed me to run 4 pencil jets on the brush as well as a rinse bar-- the standard euro 5/16ths will not do that without a pump and really high faucet psi from the tap
Hey Larry. Well, I believe it' been about 18 months or so since I put that together- I have had zero issues. The only thing I have been doing every 3-4 months, is to change the carbon filter. This prevents chlorine from getting into the RO membrane and ruining it. Best investment I ever made for the business.
If you click on the "description" part, it should open up all the parts used. If you are a detailer, I am not sure if an RO system is going to be best--- you might be fine with just a DI tank (deionizing resin goes into the tank, it is the same concept as the "spotless car wash" at the end of your washing). However, if you run the water through the ro, and then through a DI tank (I didnt list the di tank, you can google it)...you would have thousands of gallons of spot-free water. Keep in mind Larry, you won't be putting out lots of water with this....I think I average .75-.83 gallons per minute. So in other words, you won't be rinsing like you would with a regular garden hose which is like 5/8 inch-- I would recommend a smaller hose like a 1/2 or a 3/8. If anything, this would be your "final rinse" after you detail. I use lots of water when I clean windows.
This is the absolute best demonstration of how to do a RO system. I use DI for washing cars and the resin is EXPENSIVE and doesn't last long I have around 500-600 TDS in my water. This is absolutely AWESOME how you did this! I'm gonna do the same exact thing as you but being my water is terrible I might refresh my DI resin and run it through that also THANKS FOR THIS AWESOME VIDEO
Thanks for the kind words. I am glad it was able to help you out. The ONLY drawback to using an RO filter is-- you will NOT get the same amount of pressure/ water flow as you are used to with a DI-- but there are ways to increase the flow (I made a video about using a pump to push the water, which will let you definitely wash down cars/trucks)-- Keep in mind, I wash my truck with this system and its enough to clean it with no issues. I add a pump if I am running two of my water fed poles (see some of my other videos, I show you the difference in PSI as well). If you are filling up a tank, that won't apply-- it will just take the tank a little longer than say if you filled up with DI-- I average about .75 gallons a minute through the RO, whereas a DI you will get multiple gallons a minute
500-600 TDS will eat through resin big time-- Trust me, I've been there. An RO filter will most likely reduce that all the way down to 30-50-- and then you run THAT through your DI-- which means your resin is going to last A LOT longer-- which means, more cars/trucks washed- More money in your pocket!!!
Most of the parts i listed in the description are still available-- if you have any questions, feel free to message me back on here-- I am not a rocket scientist and I was able to assemble this in about a half hour. It's been 2+ years, and it works as good as it did when I built it back in early 2020.
Hi. Great video! Can you put a link to the video u mentioned about increasing pressure with a pump? I cant find it in your catalog. Thank you
thanks so much,I appreciate you presenting such valuable stuff.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching! I actually have a new video I am going to upload about this. I recently changed the RO filter that was in there after 3 years of use. The video I am going to upload shows you how to remove and replace it, in more of a real-time situation (It shows how to pretty much install and replace the filter)
Great presentation starting with the 1 of 2 videos you made regarding how and where to attach the connections, I used to build RO/DI systems for the window cleaning & mobile detail guys and a few other industries. I always added a carbonator pump to my systems as the tds defiantly varies day to day zip code to zip code. I pushed my ro membrane to 145-160 psi using the Axeon hf5 4040 ro membrane as the high tds areas around here were 500+and and get 3-7 ppm.with that kind of pressure it makes the rinsing much faster. For a person wanting to get into the WFP cleaning aspect for residential window cleaning you cant beat the cost for that kind of system you built for less than $ 700. Yes some people are pretty set on by having 0 PPM ..... I think the DI add on is a waste of money for residential / Commercial window cleaning.
Thank you for watching. I agree, the RO membrane from Axeon pretty much takes everything out of the water. My tap is around 290, after RO is is about 7-13tds. If I go to a home that has good quality water (100 or below TDS)....It literally reads 0-1TDS. I have been running this HF5 for over 3 years now and have yet to have to change anything-- other than a carbon filter every 3-4 months (Just to be safe).
I DID add a DI tank-- BUT only because I already HAD it sitting around and extra resin! I figured why not use the resin, instead of let it go bad-- that was about 18 months ago...it reads 1TDS still! Another backup in case I run into a home with VERY low pressure in a pinch-- It's there!
BUT, it is NOT needed for where I live. I understand people love to say they have 0TDS. Some others in different areas of the country do tell me that the water quality is so bad, RO alone won't reduce what's in there. I can't speak for other people, only my OWN experiences! At the time, I believe the cost came to be about 550 dollars for everything-- with inflation now I'd imagine it is 700. People suggest that one is "being cheap" going this route-- I look at it getting more for less. I have compared this "cheap" system to a 2000+ system, there is no difference-- OTHER than the trolley and accessories.
The money you would save would allow you to buy a high quality water fed pole and hose...and get to work. You can put a sling setup on this RO and make it a shoulder sling for transport. It weighs a lot less than a 3/4 DI TANK, I can guarantee you that. If this system caused spots, I would imagine by now I would get complaints. I get none, just spot-free results!!!!
I agree with you 100 percent
@@kdwindowcleaning Your absolutely right about everything you said. Its pretty much the same set up i have for my own set up that i run off a 275 gl water tote and gravity feed it to a cheap ryobi pressure washer to clean off my sxs's and truck. Run a booster pump off the water tote to 250ft of 5/16 hose for my wtp to clean my windows on my house. Whats funny is i get window cleaning companies that do cold calling and say they can clean my windows for x amount and i show them my system set up and they dont know what to say besides asking me if i would build them a system.
From RO to DI, what connections would I need? Thanks for posting this vid
Hey Louie, thanks for watching. If I recall correctly, the "outlet" for the RO (which is where the filtered water comes out of) is 3/4NPT-- I simply used an adapter than turns it from 3/4NPT to 3/4ght (garden hose size). I then ran a clear tube hose that was I believe 3/8inch to my DI tank -- my DI tank had 3/4GHT fittings. Everything can be purchased at any hardware store-- I am not 100 percent if it was 1/2 or 3/4-- it has been about 3+ years since I assembled this
I am certain the threads in the RO are NPT, just not exactly remembering if it was 1/2 or 3/4.
how to control the ratio of waste to clean water?
Ahmed sorry I am late to reply. You can control the ratio of waste water with the water faucet attachment-- I found it at home depot for about 12 dollars-- it is 3/4 inch and will connect to the end of the RO housing-- I simply turn the handle to adjust the ratio. Just like you would turn the water on/off at your outside hose area
@@kdwindowcleaning thank you for your reply.
What should be the ratio of waste to clean water?
Hello, so I got my system all set up and I’m not getting any pure water out of my pole hose, do you know what could be causing this to happen?
Did you figure out what happened? I think you did because you had messaged me a few days ago-- just making sure. Water should come out of the outlet tube-- hopefully you got it straightened out!
@@kdwindowcleaning yep I got it figured out, sorry forgot to remove the comment! Thanks
Not sure why TH-cam didn't notify me of your comment from 3 days ago. Going to figure that out.
I remember you showed me that it took it all the way down to 9 TDS or so-- A DI tank would last you a VERY long time at that low TDS. I dont have the official numbers, but it should produce thousands of gallons of pure water- even a very small DI tank will last a long time before the resin would "go bad" . Keep in mind, it's not needed where I live-- your water may vary though! If you were going to put it on a trolley, if you wanted to be 100 percent sure, a very small DI tank could be mounted on the trolley-- this would give you a traditional 3-stage system-- But it's not needed all the time!!!!!
Hey bro love the video! Is it ok if I could get you contact info as I am planning to make one myself, if I have any questions I could ask you.
Hey, sure. Email Kenny@kdwindowcleaning.com. I check my mailbox all the time. It's pretty simple to assemble keep in mind some of these parts may not be the same price as they were when I made that video couple years ago (inflation).
What size hose are you using?
Hey MKEprowash, Merry Christmas! The hose was bought from a place called CWC Window Supply-- it's called the Viper hose-- It is 10mm inner diameter compared to the 8mm inner diameter that comes with all the poles standard. Someone messaged me last week and said they don't sell it anymore-- but you can find this at places like Ace hardware and some other local area
@@kdwindowcleaning awesome thanks!
cwcsupplyusa.com/viper-hose-1-4-blue-per-ft/
1/4 I.D. x 3/8" O.D.-- they got bought out by WCR...and don't see this being for sale anymore...what a bummer, this is the best hose I have ever used for WFP. It is the only one that allowed me to run 4 pencil jets on the brush as well as a rinse bar-- the standard euro 5/16ths will not do that without a pump and really high faucet psi from the tap
👍🔥🔥
LET'S GO HEAT!!!!!!!
How’s the setup so far???
Hey Larry. Well, I believe it' been about 18 months or so since I put that together- I have had zero issues. The only thing I have been doing every 3-4 months, is to change the carbon filter. This prevents chlorine from getting into the RO membrane and ruining it. Best investment I ever made for the business.
@@kdwindowcleaning do u happen to have a list of the parts used Im a mobile detailer and I’m in need of a simple set up like urs
If you click on the "description" part, it should open up all the parts used. If you are a detailer, I am not sure if an RO system is going to be best--- you might be fine with just a DI tank (deionizing resin goes into the tank, it is the same concept as the "spotless car wash" at the end of your washing). However, if you run the water through the ro, and then through a DI tank (I didnt list the di tank, you can google it)...you would have thousands of gallons of spot-free water.
Keep in mind Larry, you won't be putting out lots of water with this....I think I average .75-.83 gallons per minute. So in other words, you won't be rinsing like you would with a regular garden hose which is like 5/8 inch-- I would recommend a smaller hose like a 1/2 or a 3/8. If anything, this would be your "final rinse" after you detail.
I use lots of water when I clean windows.
th-cam.com/video/DxFXrtZek5I/w-d-xo.html
This is me using this to clean my truck, to give you an idea.
@@kdwindowcleaning that’s exactly what I’m tryn to do is get as much life out of the DI resin as I can