I've done a lot of ribbon cables for computer connectors. I use a soldering iron with an old tip and run it quickly across the end of the cable a couple of passes until it melts down to the wire. Flip the cable over and do the same on the other side. The insulation usually can be pulled off the end easily. Using this method there is no risk of strippers damaging the wire.
The trick to stripping ribbon cable is to use a hand held automatic pistol self adjusting wire stripper that has the flat blade. You want one that’s about wide enough for 8 wires or the automatic mechanism can get jammed up. We use them for stripping 40pin ribbons just start on one edge and work your way across.
Ya. Maybe a really expensive one... or else... IMO... they suck. For example, Druatool, D03193 is 8770.00USD, from Newark. So... for that money... it better work.
@@w2aew I can't find the exact brand but the style you are looking for is similar to `VCELINK Automatic Quickstrip Wire Stripper and Cutter, Professional Quick Strip Wire Stripper, 2 in 1 Adjustable Electrical Cable Wire` There are multiple vendors that all sell a similar style stripper. They are about $10-20
Keeping flat strands of 3 wires is a very good tip to avoid tangling! I've been using a radial system consisting in 10 individual wires evenly spaced, and while this makes a very efficient antenna (I've got the theoretical impedance of a resonant 1/4 wave monopole: 36 + j21 ohms) it is a pain to deploy and disassemble.
Way cool... I was just about to work on my mobile portable setup and saw your video.. I like the ease of untanglement. i think i have a roll of the 10 core in the garage.
Why not use IDC connectors designed for ribbon cables? Bus all of the connector contacts together onto a small sheet of brass or copper clad FR4, run a braided ground strap over to your antenna base. Easy to disassemble and store, too.
Cheap easy stripper is a fine pitch wood saw, which has teeth matching the cable pitch. Then you simply press it between the cores to cut most of the way through the plastic, onto a wood block, turn over and do again, then hold the saw tight and pull the insulation off. Sleeving a second longer layer over the connector and the first sleeve acts as extra strain relief, with the easiest being non glue lined sleeve, and using a hot glue gun to add in a small ring of glue around the overlap of the first one, let it cool, then sleeve and shrink it. That way there is no stress on the crimp, and the extra non glued sleeve allows the cable to flex slightly, so it does not have a fracture point at the exit. Neoprene or silicone tubing with some glue at the connector end works as well.
Great tip with the ribbon cable! I use automatic strippers, even cheap ones will work once the pressure is correctly adjusted. The console modding community uses a different kind of ribbon cable, might be solid core or just with more resistant strands. Those are easier to strip and can also be directly soldered to, as the insulation will retract in a nice way.
I use AMP brand automatic wire strippers to do ribbon cables. The model I have is 734185-1 . They have upper and lower stripping jaws that are made up of numerous high speed steel plates sandwiched together. The jaws are approximately 0.35 inch wide.
Years ago, RadioShack sold a SW dipole for "multiple" bands and it used ribbon cable on each side configured as a fan dipole. I have one. The design is dirt easy, but RS failed to put a 1:1 current balun in the kit, so wind the coax around a FT240-43 and you have a nice choke. The point is that ribbon cable will work great for both the radials AND the radiator at up to about 100W SSB. If you want something a bit more stout, try rotor cable. Thanks Alan for another great video. 👍73 OM
I use a Stanley FatMax FMHT0-96230, that thing strips a few cables, flat or not, at the same time. Thank for sharing, happy holidays and, soon, Happy new year ! :D Cheers !
I have something almost identical, but with a ring instead of the spade connector. Fits over 3/8 or M10 screw for grounding, and as you say, doesn't tangle at all! Cheers and Happy New Year! George M1GEO.
there is a tool called a 'hot knife' that is basically a soldering iron with a xacto knife as the tip. Use the hot knife blade to simply melt the insulation away, and pull it off. Hobby and craft stores usually have this tool. Not cheap for one or two time use though.
"And I think you'll be happy with the results." -- but Alan, I use a linked inverted vee in the field! This would be useless to me, unless I buy or build more antennas... actually, you know, I have some ribbon cable in stock.
Its not a great way, but I leave a drywall knife with a new or newly honed blade on it. You just have to push a little bit without sawing. I have a nice ribbon cable end kit and I might just make the connector connection and then join all the pins on the connector together. Did I miss something? I was expecting you to trim each of the 3 in each set for different bands. I am not sure if they would be effective because of the close proximity to the other wires and capacitance. I would have ask someone like you or try it.
Hey Alan, always love your videos. Can I offer an idea for a video? Recently I bought cheap oscilloscope probes (p6500) and would like to test/adjust their frequency response. I have a nano-vna, but i'm in doubt if i should terminate input (didn't), and how to calculate expected attenuation (-45,15 dBm is what i came up to). Thanks for the knowledge.
Alan: What do you think about taking the three wires in each group and cutting each wire for about 1/4 wavelength on three different bands? I currently have a three band vertical (20,15,10). It has 1/4 vertical elements cut for the three bands. Some of the older antenna books also recommend cutting radial wires at 1/4 wave for each band. In fact "Simple Low-Cost Wire Antennas for Radio Amateurs" by Bill Orr W6SAI and Stuart Cowan W2LX features (on page 110) just such an antenna. They also use ribbon cable. What do you think? 73 from the Dominican Republic HI7/N2CQR
Hello, a bit off topic here. Do you still use your Tektronik VNA ? if so, did you find any software update for it other then the last one from the manufacturer ?
Hi, the title in Germany is showing as a pretty bad machine translation instead of the original. TH-cam is currently messing with this and you manually have to delete the auto generated titles.
I've done a lot of ribbon cables for computer connectors. I use a soldering iron with an old tip and run it quickly across the end of the cable a couple of passes until it melts down to the wire. Flip the cable over and do the same on the other side. The insulation usually can be pulled off the end easily. Using this method there is no risk of strippers damaging the wire.
The trick to stripping ribbon cable is to use a hand held automatic pistol self adjusting wire stripper that has the flat blade. You want one that’s about wide enough for 8 wires or the automatic mechanism can get jammed up. We use them for stripping 40pin ribbons just start on one edge and work your way across.
Ya. Maybe a really expensive one... or else... IMO... they suck. For example, Druatool, D03193 is 8770.00USD, from Newark. So... for that money... it better work.
I'll have to look for one of them. Any recommendations for brand/model?
@@w2aew I can't find the exact brand but the style you are looking for is similar to `VCELINK Automatic Quickstrip Wire Stripper and Cutter, Professional Quick Strip Wire Stripper, 2 in 1 Adjustable Electrical Cable Wire`
There are multiple vendors that all sell a similar style stripper. They are about $10-20
Awesome kit, thanks Alan. Happy Holidays
Keeping flat strands of 3 wires is a very good tip to avoid tangling! I've been using a radial system consisting in 10 individual wires evenly spaced, and while this makes a very efficient antenna (I've got the theoretical impedance of a resonant 1/4 wave monopole: 36 + j21 ohms) it is a pain to deploy and disassemble.
Way cool... I was just about to work on my mobile portable setup and saw your video.. I like the ease of untanglement. i think i have a roll of the 10 core in the garage.
I like it!! Reminds me of an old project I did about 6 years ago that I might just revisit!
Why not use IDC connectors designed for ribbon cables? Bus all of the connector contacts together onto a small sheet of brass or copper clad FR4, run a braided ground strap over to your antenna base. Easy to disassemble and store, too.
Thanks for the video Alan, I like the non or low tangle properties and will give this a try for the 2024 POTA season. Happy New Year to you and yours!
Cheap easy stripper is a fine pitch wood saw, which has teeth matching the cable pitch. Then you simply press it between the cores to cut most of the way through the plastic, onto a wood block, turn over and do again, then hold the saw tight and pull the insulation off. Sleeving a second longer layer over the connector and the first sleeve acts as extra strain relief, with the easiest being non glue lined sleeve, and using a hot glue gun to add in a small ring of glue around the overlap of the first one, let it cool, then sleeve and shrink it. That way there is no stress on the crimp, and the extra non glued sleeve allows the cable to flex slightly, so it does not have a fracture point at the exit. Neoprene or silicone tubing with some glue at the connector end works as well.
Great tip with the ribbon cable! I use automatic strippers, even cheap ones will work once the pressure is correctly adjusted. The console modding community uses a different kind of ribbon cable, might be solid core or just with more resistant strands. Those are easier to strip and can also be directly soldered to, as the insulation will retract in a nice way.
Nice. The solid core stuff won’t be as flexible though.
The trick i have always used is to pinch the wire between my thumbnail and index finger and pull. It works well with the grey thinner ribbon cable.
I use AMP brand automatic wire strippers to do ribbon cables. The model I have is 734185-1 . They have upper and lower stripping jaws that are made up of numerous high speed steel plates sandwiched together. The jaws are approximately 0.35 inch wide.
Years ago, RadioShack sold a SW dipole for "multiple" bands and it used ribbon cable on each side configured as a fan dipole. I have one. The design is dirt easy, but RS failed to put a 1:1 current balun in the kit, so wind the coax around a FT240-43 and you have a nice choke. The point is that ribbon cable will work great for both the radials AND the radiator at up to about 100W SSB. If you want something a bit more stout, try rotor cable.
Thanks Alan for another great video. 👍73 OM
I use a Stanley FatMax FMHT0-96230, that thing strips a few cables, flat or not, at the same time. Thank for sharing, happy holidays and, soon, Happy new year ! :D Cheers !
Always nice to see what your up to Alan, Happy New Year all the best *Cheers*
Excellent idea Alan, thank you for sharing.
Interesting video! Happy New Year, Alan!
Very nice! Thanks for sharing.
I have something almost identical, but with a ring instead of the spade connector. Fits over 3/8 or M10 screw for grounding, and as you say, doesn't tangle at all!
Cheers and Happy New Year!
George M1GEO.
there is a tool called a 'hot knife' that is basically a soldering iron with a xacto knife as the tip. Use the hot knife blade to simply melt the insulation away, and pull it off. Hobby and craft stores usually have this tool. Not cheap for one or two time use though.
Thanks, Alan. All the best for 2025 to you and your family.
"And I think you'll be happy with the results." -- but Alan, I use a linked inverted vee in the field! This would be useless to me, unless I buy or build more antennas... actually, you know, I have some ribbon cable in stock.
random observation: The adhesive in the heat shrink tubing is a hot-melt adhesive, not an epoxy.
Thanks, yes, you are right.
Nice one.
Great. Thank you for sharing. Appreciate all your videos. 73’s. N2GMA
Thanks for the tip Alan, all the best for 2025, 73 Bob
Always started mine with an Actual straight razor
Stripping: maybe you can put a solder iron against the ribbon after bending it like you did ?
(NO cores were injured in this promotion...)
Happy New Year Alan! 73 - Dino KL0S
You too, my friend!
Its not a great way, but I leave a drywall knife with a new or newly honed blade on it. You just have to push a little bit without sawing. I have a nice ribbon cable end kit and I might just make the connector connection and then join all the pins on the connector together. Did I miss something? I was expecting you to trim each of the 3 in each set for different bands. I am not sure if they would be effective because of the close proximity to the other wires and capacitance. I would have ask someone like you or try it.
With trial and error, that could work and be effective, especially if elevated. I wasn’t making any attempt for tuned radials.
@@w2aew I have been learning a lot from you. Its not easy beating it into my brain and having it stay there. TNX de w0it
Thank you!
Hey Alan, always love your videos. Can I offer an idea for a video? Recently I bought cheap oscilloscope probes (p6500) and would like to test/adjust their frequency response. I have a nano-vna, but i'm in doubt if i should terminate input (didn't), and how to calculate expected attenuation (-45,15 dBm is what i came up to).
Thanks for the knowledge.
Can you post the source for your cable?
I bought it most recently on Amazon
Use a lighter, burn off the plastic. After 2 seconds the plastic gets soft and you use two fingers to quickly pull it off the wire.
Alan: What do you think about taking the three wires in each group and cutting each wire for about 1/4 wavelength on three different bands? I currently have a three band vertical (20,15,10). It has 1/4 vertical elements cut for the three bands. Some of the older antenna books also recommend cutting radial wires at 1/4 wave for each band. In fact "Simple Low-Cost Wire Antennas for Radio Amateurs" by Bill Orr W6SAI and Stuart Cowan W2LX features (on page 110) just such an antenna. They also use ribbon cable. What do you think? 73 from the Dominican Republic HI7/N2CQR
Yes, that will work well, especially if you elevate them.
Hello, a bit off topic here. Do you still use your Tektronik VNA ? if so, did you find any software update for it other then the last one from the manufacturer ?
I still have it, but there have been no updates for a few years.
Great video, Alan. I have a question about your “blowtorch”. It looks like an ISO-TIP butane model. Is it a SolderPro 90? Thanks and 73. de KR6J
Yes, it is
73' 88' 🎅🏻
Hi, the title in Germany is showing as a pretty bad machine translation instead of the original. TH-cam is currently messing with this and you manually have to delete the auto generated titles.
Always professional and to the point. great vids. DE W4EMB