Hi Mike. Great idea. If the lid connection doesn't work out, look for a "through wall" connector. There's several different types available, but something like www.mcmaster.com/#44555k121/=1ci3t0n might be just the thing with an o-ring on either side. Doug from Etowah River Woodturners
Thanks for that, Doug! That looks like the perfect connector for going thru the wall of the pot which I am still reluctant to do, or more likely replace that fitting that is only a friction fit in the acrylic as soon as it gets loose. Hope your club is doing well and growing.
I learned this the hard way. That steel pot will implode. Also the rivet holes will prevent a tight vacuum. I bought a cheap old style aluminum pressure cooker. Been using it for about a year no problems. Also used a glass cookie jar from Walmart.
I am getting no leakage at the rivets and the pot appears to pretty thick gage steel. I can see as the pot gets bigger, so would the risk of implosion. Mine is about 10 qts. It looks as strong as the thicker commercial aluminum pot unit my friend John has which also came with handles riveted on. I guess I will take my chances. What do they say about a fool learning from his own mistakes but a wise man learns from others.
Hi Mike Great video I love the thorough explanation. I’ve found myself with a Gast 0522 pump for real cheap from an auction-and I want to rig up a similar system to yours, with the switch and the connects. Do you have anywhere that you might be able to point me to showing in detail the wiring and hose/gauge/valve setup you’re using? It looks like my perfect setup, I’m just having a time visualizing it from pause on your video here. Thanks so much.
I plan to make one also by converting a pressure paint pot. I will probably add a gauge to the lid. I see your's next to the pump. Threading with some teflon tape may help in the acrylic. Good job prepping me for mine. Alan
Great video. I used a crock pot for mine. I used a diamond drill bit to put a hole in the lid off to the side then used foam for the seal. Cactus juice is on the way. I have a variety of wood ready to go.
Do you mean my vacuum chuck? Here is a video I did on that. th-cam.com/video/BEjQGavlPQU/w-d-xo.html You can also find a link on my website to a write up on the build.
Mike, I couldn't make out what you called the white gasket material you used to seal the pot. Would you mind posting the name please. Thanks for the video. I plan on making this setup. I did purchase a one inch piece of acrylic....just in case.
Very informative! Might want to further explore the limitations of certain types of pots regarding thickness and maximum "safe" vacuum pressure, to avoid having an implosion...
Thanks for commenting. I don't think I will do any experimenting. The pot is thick enough since it is like many commercial units. If the lid breaks I will make a wood top with a smaller acrylic see through window with the 3/8" acrylic I have on hand.
Did I miss something? No hole for a circle cutting jig, then drill a hole for the fitting? Why not use the centering hole for the fitting? By the way, my circle cutting jig only requires a tiny dimple to pivot, not a hole. Wouldn't the lid implode instead of explode if were to break? Also I think silicone would seal the fitting if it should leak as is. Just sayin'. This is a project I might try if there is a more inexpensive vacuum pump out there. Thanks for posting Mike.
Yes, it would definitely implode. I figure a hole near the edge would be stronger as any hole would likely weaken the lid. Also provides best visability. Since my acrylic is marginal in thickness, even a dimple would weaken. I was planning on using silicone if it leaked but it doesn't - yet. I think you could use a much smaller pump but I already had one. If you don't have a vacuum chuck, might be worth getting a vacuum pump that will do double duty.
I have not had problems with my wood being wet as I am typically stabilizing smaller pieces of spalted wood I have had indoors in my heated and cooled shop for some time. I agree, heating to inusre dry is not a bad idea.
Mike, you need a gauge on the pot to get a more accurate reading. I can pull about 28 1/2 in. of mercury, but I'm in Florida. It will depend on the altitude where the pot is being used.
How many months did that lid last before it broke? I've had 2 that were 1/2" go bad! Glass is the only way to go. THen just tap the side of your pot, not the lid. You also need to be pulling about 28-29 to get even decent penetration/saturation. Here is a lot more info from the guy who really made this popular. www.turntex.com/help-center/cactus-juice-stabilizing-resources
Be very careful not to get Cactus juice on the lid. Seemingly it can cause the acrylic to crack. I just bought a vacuum chamber and the lid is 20mm thick, it also comes with a warning not get cactus juice on for this reason. Please investigate for your own safety. Regards Stuart,
Stu Brearley absolutely correct, Stu. Also, if you get Cactus Juice(or any stabilizing liquid) on the acrylic lid, it will cloud the viewing window of your lid. Ask me how I know ! Have fun Mike. Jim
Honestly acrylic is a poor choice for any stabilizing. Glass is best. Drill the pot on the side for the fittings. Use JB weld to set it. JB weld won’t be affected by any chemicals
Hi Mike. Great idea. If the lid connection doesn't work out, look for a "through wall" connector. There's several different types available, but something like www.mcmaster.com/#44555k121/=1ci3t0n might be just the thing with an o-ring on either side.
Doug from Etowah River Woodturners
Thanks for that, Doug! That looks like the perfect connector for going thru the wall of the pot which I am still reluctant to do, or more likely replace that fitting that is only a friction fit in the acrylic as soon as it gets loose. Hope your club is doing well and growing.
I learned this the hard way. That steel pot will implode. Also the rivet holes will prevent a tight vacuum. I bought a cheap old style aluminum pressure cooker. Been using it for about a year no problems. Also used a glass cookie jar from Walmart.
I am getting no leakage at the rivets and the pot appears to pretty thick gage steel. I can see as the pot gets bigger, so would the risk of implosion. Mine is about 10 qts. It looks as strong as the thicker commercial aluminum pot unit my friend John has which also came with handles riveted on. I guess I will take my chances. What do they say about a fool learning from his own mistakes but a wise man learns from others.
Hi Mike
Great video I love the thorough explanation. I’ve found myself with a Gast 0522 pump for real cheap from an auction-and I want to rig up a similar system to yours, with the switch and the connects. Do you have anywhere that you might be able to point me to showing in detail the wiring and hose/gauge/valve setup you’re using? It looks like my perfect setup, I’m just having a time visualizing it from pause on your video here. Thanks so much.
I have update and added an article I wrote on my system. You can find it on my website under the Resources tab. MikePeaceWoodturning.com
Wow thank you so much!
I plan to make one also by converting a pressure paint pot. I will probably add a gauge to the lid. I see your's next to the pump. Threading with some teflon tape may help in the acrylic.
Good job prepping me for mine.
Alan
Thanks for commenting, Alan.
Great video. I used a crock pot for mine. I used a diamond drill bit to put a hole in the lid off to the side then used foam for the seal. Cactus juice is on the way. I have a variety of wood ready to go.
Excellent. Let us know which woods work well and which don't.
Do you have any videos or info for the vacuum pump setup you have?
Do you mean my vacuum chuck? Here is a video I did on that. th-cam.com/video/BEjQGavlPQU/w-d-xo.html You can also find a link on my website to a write up on the build.
Very interesting video Mike. I know you know what you’re doing but just be careful. I’m looking forward to the next video. Really interesting.
Thanks for your concern. I am cautious and deliberate by nature and weigh all of the known risks so tend to be pretty careful.
Mike, I couldn't make out what you called the white gasket material you used to seal the pot. Would you mind posting the name please. Thanks for the video. I plan on making this setup. I did purchase a one inch piece of acrylic....just in case.
Fun foam. 1/16" closed cell foam
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Thanks for the quick response!
at 4.33 min you said rotary adaptor,Could you tell me what web site I can buy it ?or what name and model in Ebay i can get?.Thanks in advance
You can buy a rotary adapter from Craft Supplies USA www.woodturnerscatalog.com/search?term=rotary+adapter or here jtturningtools.com/vacuum-adapters
Hey Mike - so a year down the road what are your thoughts? What's worked? What would you do differently? Thanks for all you do!
I have another video coming out in about 10 days that will answer some of that!
Very informative! Might want to further explore the limitations of certain types of pots regarding thickness and maximum "safe" vacuum pressure, to avoid having an implosion...
Thanks for commenting. I don't think I will do any experimenting. The pot is thick enough since it is like many commercial units. If the lid breaks I will make a wood top with a smaller acrylic see through window with the 3/8" acrylic I have on hand.
Did I miss something? No hole for a circle cutting jig, then drill a hole for the fitting? Why not use the centering hole for the fitting? By the way, my circle cutting jig only requires a tiny dimple to pivot, not a hole. Wouldn't the lid implode instead of explode if were to break? Also I think silicone would seal the fitting if it should leak as is. Just sayin'.
This is a project I might try if there is a more inexpensive vacuum pump out there. Thanks for posting Mike.
Yes, it would definitely implode. I figure a hole near the edge would be stronger as any hole would likely weaken the lid. Also provides best visability. Since my acrylic is marginal in thickness, even a dimple would weaken. I was planning on using silicone if it leaked but it doesn't - yet. I think you could use a much smaller pump but I already had one. If you don't have a vacuum chuck, might be worth getting a vacuum pump that will do double duty.
Dear sir, to stabilize the wood that degree of moisture is allowed, try to reach zero percent by heating the wood just cracking. Thank you
I have not had problems with my wood being wet as I am typically stabilizing smaller pieces of spalted wood I have had indoors in my heated and cooled shop for some time. I agree, heating to inusre dry is not a bad idea.
Should have put a valve at the pot and you can thread the acrylic to put your fittings in.
I have a valve on the wall I can reach from where I will be using the pot. Why do you recommend a second one on the lid?
Mike, you need a gauge on the pot to get a more accurate reading. I can pull about 28 1/2 in. of mercury, but I'm in Florida. It will depend on the altitude where the pot is being used.
If you have to turn around to reach the valve something might happen when your back is turned. Look at a picture of a commercial one.
How many months did that lid last before it broke? I've had 2 that were 1/2" go bad! Glass is the only way to go. THen just tap the side of your pot, not the lid. You also need to be pulling about 28-29 to get even decent penetration/saturation. Here is a lot more info from the guy who really made this popular. www.turntex.com/help-center/cactus-juice-stabilizing-resources
Be very careful not to get Cactus juice on the lid. Seemingly it can cause the acrylic to crack. I just bought a vacuum chamber and the lid is 20mm thick, it also comes with a warning not get cactus juice on for this reason. Please investigate for your own safety. Regards Stuart,
Thanks for sharing! 20mm? I probably should go ahead and make a wooden top with a smaller acrylic window with the acrylic I have on hand.
Stu Brearley absolutely correct, Stu. Also, if you get Cactus Juice(or any stabilizing liquid) on the acrylic lid, it will cloud the viewing window of your lid. Ask me how I know !
Have fun Mike. Jim
Honestly acrylic is a poor choice for any stabilizing. Glass is best. Drill the pot on the side for the fittings. Use JB weld to set it. JB weld won’t be affected by any chemicals