😮 !...see..that's why we need instructions...you have just educated so many folks and they will be saving money... I'm not a turner..but I do appreciate knowledge... Btw..that last shot of your bowl..had a bear face...yep..ears..eyes..and snout.. See you in the next video...🌿🌿🌿
Great information, Lewis. I may have to watch this two or three times to really digest everything you had to say. Thanks for the explanations, my friend. Stay safe and well, Lewis! 👍👍👍 …..Gord
It was very interesting and helpful with a very good explanation well done Lewis it will helps lots of people interested in this field. Bye and see you in the next video bye 👋.
Generous and kind of you to share this experience 🙏 Helpful for me, because I’m right now evaluating if I should have a vacuum pump. If so, I will absolutely go for the 2 stage 👍🏼
Thanks Lewis for the information. I only do small amounts of resin in my projects for now but as I expand I’m sure this information will save frustration later.
Thanks for that info. It does help a lot. I never would have thought to check that the lid and stabilizer were compatible. I think I would've just assumed that they were. I'm sure that you just saved some money for some people.
Thank you for the video, it's very interesting to learn about the corrosive properties of cactus juice, I had no idea. With regards to the vacuum pump I use (at work in the composite industry and at home for small projects) an oil-less vacuum pump with graphite vanes. They can run over night without over heating and there is no chance of getting oil vapour exhaust fumes into your workshop. But again thank you for the advice on cactus juice 👍
Good information. When I got started stabilizing, I was told that you cannot turn the pump off, that it needs to stay on. If you turn it off, the air that is drawn out of the wood causes the pressure to drop to the point where equilibrium takes place and nothing happens. I have that blue pump and have run it for 36+ hours. Can’t say either of us are right or wrong, just my experience.
Thanks Doug, you have to watch it at the beginning for sure but after the first half hour or so, normally the bulk of the air is out. During this phase running the pump intermittently to keep the vacuum up is important. Once you get to just the small bubbles it requires less frequent operation of the pump if you have a well sealed chamber. The info on not running the pumps comes directly from the distributed and is not my own observation. I would love to know the temp of your pump after 36 hours straight! Maybe they level off? I appreciate you watching!
Well, you knew exactly the next step in my growth and gave some very useful, specific, information. I did see Ben's disaster video. I must admit, it made me double check my pressure pot for safety. Glad I know know where to look for the right one. First a Thompson skew & gouge, then vacuum chamber. Last thought, is the glycerin you need the same as you'd find in a pharmacy? I've bought some there for a 50/50 water mix for spraying down models during a bodybuilding photo session. I found my mineral oil there, though the ag store had a lighter mineral oil for less money. Just some thoughts. Thanks for the video and info, Lewis!
@@TheKlondikeCraftsman like you said in the video, if the gauge reads accurately, and the glycerin just slows down the vibration, you're still getting the information you need. I just thought I would throw that out there.
Thanks for a really useful video. My vacuum chamber is developing exactly the same micro-cracks on the lid and I had no idea what was causing it. My chamber is home made though so hopefully I can just get the right material and make a new lid. Does anyone know what stuff is resistant to cactus juice?
If your pot is not holding the vacuum, do a soapy water/thinned dish soap test by brushing the liquid on all the pot components to check for leaks. The soapy water will bubble where there is air movement. We found small leaks that we were able to fix, and now all our pots are air tight and hold the vacuum for over 24 hours without having to run the pump. You can check with Curtis at Turn-Tex, the maker of Cactus Juice if you want to replace a lid. With the new Cactus Juice formula, there is almost no foaming, so less splashing on the underside of the lid. Most of the time now I can draw the vacuum and just let it go. No sitting and dealing with foam ups.
Great explanation of the equipment and how important it is to get the correct lid. It seems it is fairly expensive to get into stabilizing the pieces and I know the cactus juice isn't cheap either. Obviously or so it seems, you would end up with a longer lasting finished product but can you get your $$ back ( ie charge more for them) doing small objects compared to those who don't? I'm mainly thinking of things like bottle stoppers, grinders, coasters, charqcuterie boards, pens, etc. Great video, on a positive note you've definitely answered some questions for me, on the negative side, I now have more questions. Seriously though, most informative.
Thank you Peter. I do build the cost of the stabilizing resin into the finished price. In terms of time, it doesn’t take a lot of hands on time to stabilize unless you decide you need to sit and watch, which I do not. I check periodically while doing other things. So for the pieces I do, yes I get my money back but more importantly I don’t get pieces returned that aren’t as the were when I sold them.
Is there such a thing as a vacuum pump that you can set to maintain a certain vacuum and would turn on when it is needed, then turn off when the pressure is met?
I do like it. Time will tell if it is worth the money. They all work well at first, we will see how long it lasts but I believe it is very good quality. Thank you for watching!
You vacuum pumps are expensive.. I have used a similar stabilizing juice on rotten walnut burls with success.. But I use it after putting color in resin to suck out the bubbles out of the mixed resin..When the inches of mercury reach 27 the resin starts to foam up like a root beer float.. I never let it run over.. I shut it off. I use the pump more for the coating resins that folks use for coating glasses and cups these days.. After 4-5 years of experimenting with all other finishes including regular resin I used in bowls, urathane oil and water based.. friction polish,shellac and danish oil.. For 55 years I have used urathane on traditional wood bowls with great success but urathane does not stick well on resin.. I think if the inches of mercury reaches 27 I have had great success on the stabilizing juice..The pump I use is a duoseal and very heavy duty.. I found mine in a yard sale.. I like to degas all my resin and the result is fewer bubbles.. Yes I use pressure pots in the final step over night.. I had one effort where I was coating a end table.. So I ran the degassing up to 28 three times or how would I say till it almost flowed over 3 times.. I began to pour the resin out of the vessel. The resin was boiling and did not realize it till I start to pour it out on the table top. Not 1/4 was out and the resin set up.. yikes and a pointed pile of resin set up on the table top.. What a mess..The next day I had to chip and grind off the little mountain and start over.. So over pumping resin is not kool at all. As for air leaks I would use the plus pressure with a small spray bottle of soap and water.. Then no danger of sucking it into the pump.. There are domed pressure tanks made for vacuums and each has a O ring around the circumference.. I found a few in yard sales and most were dirt cheap.. finding a big O ring is the problem though.. imagine a tank with a 12 inch O ring.. Have fun.. I like these pumps..☺️👍
A point I forgot to make above is that the cup coating is easy to use as a bowl coating or the last step finish.. I set my home made bowl lathe to about 6 rpm’s and then put it on with my finger.. I call this the rotisserie mode.. You can put less on this way and squeegee the fluid around easier than any other tool.. I don’t do the bottom.. This resin sets up with in 30-45 minutes too.. then I turn off the lathe..yes I use plastic gloves when applying this coating.. I like this coating much and is done when it sets up.. Later I just pour resin into the bottom and leave it. I hope this helps.. it works for me and way easier that all the crummy other coating I list above.. The stuff is bullet proof and takes abuse too like urethane on solid wood..👍☺️
😮 !...see..that's why we need instructions...you have just educated so many folks and they will be saving money...
I'm not a turner..but I do appreciate knowledge...
Btw..that last shot of your bowl..had a bear face...yep..ears..eyes..and snout..
See you in the next video...🌿🌿🌿
Haha , now I need to look for the bear! Thank you for watching!
Oh another thing...
I saw the implosion in Ben Worx...
He was slightly startled..lol...
Later...🌿🌿🌿
Rightfully so!
Thank you for show this video. Your answered a lot of questions that i have about stabilizing or not to stabilize.
Thank you for watching Kevin!
Thanks for the video. Appreciate your time and the to the point explanations.
Thank you for watching David!
Great video Lewis. I will save this one for future reference if I start with the. Turtle killer 😂😂
Thanks Brian! save the burls!!
Great video Lewis and very informative
Thanks Jiggsy!
Great information, Lewis. I may have to watch this two or three times to really digest everything you had to say. Thanks for the explanations, my friend. Stay safe and well, Lewis! 👍👍👍
…..Gord
Thanks Gord! I appreciate you watching!
It was very interesting and helpful with a very good explanation well done Lewis it will helps lots of people interested in this field. Bye and see you in the next video bye 👋.
Thanks Laurence!
Thanks for taking the time to post, great info 👍🏽😊
Thanks for watching Mark
Generous and kind of you to share this experience 🙏
Helpful for me, because I’m right now evaluating if I should have a vacuum pump. If so, I will absolutely go for the 2 stage 👍🏼
Thanks for watching! Make sure the lid is compatible with stabilizing resin as well.
Thanks, this confirms what I’ve seen elsewhere as well. You saved me spending
money on things that won’t work for me. [silly iPad posted for me before I was done.
Thanks Mark, I’m glad it helped!
Informative vid Lewis, it is something I've been considering lately
Thanks Shawn
Thanks Lewis for the information. I only do small amounts of resin in my projects for now but as I expand I’m sure this information will save frustration later.
You are welcome, thanks for watching!
Although I'm not into resin Lewis this is great for those who are and thanks for explaining as I may be one day.
You might be! Thanks Terry!
Thanks for that info. It does help a lot. I never would have thought to check that the lid and stabilizer were compatible. I think I would've just assumed that they were. I'm sure that you just saved some money for some people.
Yes I was blissfully unaware as well. I hope it does help someone! Thanks for watching!
This has been a big eye opener for me so thank you so much for sharing 😁😘
Thank you for watching!
Interesting video presentation
Thanks Roger!
Thanks for the great explanation.
Thank you for watching!
Great summary Lewis!
I really need to purchase a stabilizing setup so I appreciate the summary and suggestions.
Thanks for watching Seth!
Thank you for the video, it's very interesting to learn about the corrosive properties of cactus juice, I had no idea. With regards to the vacuum pump I use (at work in the composite industry and at home for small projects) an oil-less vacuum pump with graphite vanes. They can run over night without over heating and there is no chance of getting oil vapour exhaust fumes into your workshop. But again thank you for the advice on cactus juice 👍
Thank you for watching Andrew, I appreciate it
Very informative, thank you.
Thank you for watching !
Good information. When I got started stabilizing, I was told that you cannot turn the pump off, that it needs to stay on. If you turn it off, the air that is drawn out of the wood causes the pressure to drop to the point where equilibrium takes place and nothing happens. I have that blue pump and have run it for 36+ hours. Can’t say either of us are right or wrong, just my experience.
Thanks Doug, you have to watch it at the beginning for sure but after the first half hour or so, normally the bulk of the air is out. During this phase running the pump intermittently to keep the vacuum up is important. Once you get to just the small bubbles it requires less frequent operation of the pump if you have a well sealed chamber. The info on not running the pumps comes directly from the distributed and is not my own observation. I would love to know the temp of your pump after 36 hours straight! Maybe they level off? I appreciate you watching!
Well, you knew exactly the next step in my growth and gave some very useful, specific, information.
I did see Ben's disaster video. I must admit, it made me double check my pressure pot for safety. Glad I know know where to look for the right one. First a Thompson skew & gouge, then vacuum chamber.
Last thought, is the glycerin you need the same as you'd find in a pharmacy? I've bought some there for a 50/50 water mix for spraying down models during a bodybuilding photo session. I found my mineral oil there, though the ag store had a lighter mineral oil for less money. Just some thoughts. Thanks for the video and info, Lewis!
Thanks! I never bought any glycerin, I honestly don’t know if the pharmacy stuff is the same or not. Thanks for watching !
@@TheKlondikeCraftsman like you said in the video, if the gauge reads accurately, and the glycerin just slows down the vibration, you're still getting the information you need. I just thought I would throw that out there.
Thanks for a really useful video. My vacuum chamber is developing exactly the same micro-cracks on the lid and I had no idea what was causing it. My chamber is home made though so hopefully I can just get the right material and make a new lid. Does anyone know what stuff is resistant to cactus juice?
Thanks for watching Andrew! For sure glass is ok!
Good info, Thank you
Thank you for watching!
If your pot is not holding the vacuum, do a soapy water/thinned dish soap test by brushing the liquid on all the pot components to check for leaks. The soapy water will bubble where there is air movement. We found small leaks that we were able to fix, and now all our pots are air tight and hold the vacuum for over 24 hours without having to run the pump. You can check with Curtis at Turn-Tex, the maker of Cactus Juice if you want to replace a lid. With the new Cactus Juice formula, there is almost no foaming, so less splashing on the underside of the lid. Most of the time now I can draw the vacuum and just let it go. No sitting and dealing with foam ups.
Good info! Thank you
Great explanation of the equipment and how important it is to get the correct lid. It seems it is fairly expensive to get into stabilizing the pieces and I know the cactus juice isn't cheap either. Obviously or so it seems, you would end up with a longer lasting finished product but can you get your $$ back ( ie charge more for them) doing small objects compared to those who don't? I'm mainly thinking of things like bottle stoppers, grinders, coasters, charqcuterie boards, pens, etc.
Great video, on a positive note you've definitely answered some questions for me, on the negative side, I now have more questions. Seriously though, most informative.
Thank you Peter. I do build the cost of the stabilizing resin into the finished price. In terms of time, it doesn’t take a lot of hands on time to stabilize unless you decide you need to sit and watch, which I do not. I check periodically while doing other things. So for the pieces I do, yes I get my money back but more importantly I don’t get pieces returned that aren’t as the were when I sold them.
Is there such a thing as a vacuum pump that you can set to maintain a certain vacuum and would turn on when it is needed, then turn off when the pressure is met?
I am sure that can be done with the correct electronics. Thanks for watching!
When do you use a vacuum instead of a pressure chamber.
I use a vacuum chamber for stabilizing only and a pressure pot for casting. Thank you for watching Charlie
What brand is the one with the purple hose?
It is BVV, thanks for watching!
Where did you get this. Thanks in advance
Hey Thomas, I got it from LeDab in Quebec. Thanks for watching!
How do you like the bvv vacuum pump?
Worth the money?
I do like it. Time will tell if it is worth the money. They all work well at first, we will see how long it lasts but I believe it is very good quality. Thank you for watching!
You vacuum pumps are expensive.. I have used a similar stabilizing juice on rotten walnut burls with success.. But I use it after putting color in resin to suck out the bubbles out of the mixed resin..When the inches of mercury reach 27 the resin starts to foam up like a root beer float.. I never let it run over.. I shut it off. I use the pump more for the coating resins that folks use for coating glasses and cups these days.. After 4-5 years of experimenting with all other finishes including regular resin I used in bowls, urathane oil and water based.. friction polish,shellac and danish oil.. For 55 years I have used urathane on traditional wood bowls with great success but urathane does not stick well on resin.. I think if the inches of mercury reaches 27 I have had great success on the stabilizing juice..The pump I use is a duoseal and very heavy duty.. I found mine in a yard sale.. I like to degas all my resin and the result is fewer bubbles.. Yes I use pressure pots in the final step over night.. I had one effort where I was coating a end table.. So I ran the degassing up to 28 three times or how would I say till it almost flowed over 3 times.. I began to pour the resin out of the vessel. The resin was boiling and did not realize it till I start to pour it out on the table top. Not 1/4 was out and the resin set up.. yikes and a pointed pile of resin set up on the table top.. What a mess..The next day I had to chip and grind off the little mountain and start over.. So over pumping resin is not kool at all. As for air leaks I would use the plus pressure with a small spray bottle of soap and water.. Then no danger of sucking it into the pump.. There are domed pressure tanks made for vacuums and each has a O ring around the circumference.. I found a few in yard sales and most were dirt cheap.. finding a big O ring is the problem though.. imagine a tank with a 12 inch O ring.. Have fun.. I like these pumps..☺️👍
A point I forgot to make above is that the cup coating is easy to use as a bowl coating or the last step finish.. I set my home made bowl lathe to about 6 rpm’s and then put it on with my finger.. I call this the rotisserie mode.. You can put less on this way and squeegee the fluid around easier than any other tool.. I don’t do the bottom.. This resin sets up with in 30-45 minutes too.. then I turn off the lathe..yes I use plastic gloves when applying this coating.. I like this coating much and is done when it sets up.. Later I just pour resin into the bottom and leave it. I hope this helps.. it works for me and way easier that all the crummy other coating I list above.. The stuff is bullet proof and takes abuse too like urethane on solid wood..👍☺️
Thanks for the info and for watching Terry!
I have not used a resin finish yet but I expect I will give it a go at some point.