Hoi, ik heb zelf ook een Porsche 924 gehad. De beste upgrade die ik heb gedaan, was het vervangen van de K-jetronic naar carburator. Meer power, geen gedoe met vaper lock of wat dan ook 👌🏼
Een setje dubbel Weber carburateurs op een 924 klink wel heel lekker! Ik heb jaren geleden geleerd hoe ik de K-jet systeem moest reviseren en afstellen en vind het concept van K-jet eigenlijk ook best gaaf, dus bij mij zal er niet zo snel carburateurs op komen. Een supercharger daarentegen, daar zit ik wel aan te denken...
@@GarageBiljon wel, de reden dat ik de ombouw heb gedaan was voornamelijk omdat er maar weinig personen zijn die dit systeem degelijk kunnen afstellen 😅 Misschien wel interessant om te weten mocht er nog eentje op de oprit komen te staan 😁
I had this issue with a Mk2F Polo where when hot the signal from hall sensor in bosch distributor kept breaking down, VW could only refurb my distributor on exchange basis at significant cost.
Im dealing with a 1978 924 with a hot start issue. The previous owner did a bunch of makeshift wiring fixes trying to chase an electrical problem, and ive narrowed it down to either this issue, or i need a rebuild done on the fuel distributor. Ive replaced every other component aside from the distributor cap, coil, and wires, fuel lines, and injectors.
Just struggling to decide where to put money from here. I'm nearly decided to fully scrap the stock engine and fuel system and put an LS in it as it would give more power with less hassle and issues. Any advice to get it going would be much appreciated, though, as I would like to keep it in its former glory as long as I can. I have driven the car multiple times, and it drives just fine until it is shut off and wont start again that is. 😂
@GarageBiljon On initial start up (cold) it starts fine, 1-3 seconds. Sputters a bit for about 3-4 seconds then will run about 500-700 rpm for the first 10 minutes then it levels to about 900rpm. If at any point; before, after, during warmup, doesn't matter, the car shuts off; it will not restart. If you turn the key on for ~0.5 seconds, and it doesn't start, it isn't going to. It will turn over, injectors spray fuel, plugs have spark, it just will not start. Psi is 50~80 at the WUR as well from the fuel distributor. I've rebuilt the WUR, ultrasonic cleaned the injectors, and replaced the accumulators. I've also put in new spark plugs (old ones were fouled pretty badly) this changed the cold start a bit, but nothing for hot start. I've not yet cracked the fuel distributor open. That's my next step. I have a rebuild kit for it, and was going to spend this week tackling that in my free time. Beyond that, I can't think of what else it'd be. Previous owner has a ratnest of wires in the whole engine bay. I'm going through the process of cutting all those out and removing the 100 extra ground lines strewn about the place, hopefully that'll help some of the issue.
@@TheQuassom it sounds like flooding to me, have you checked that your cold start valve has not failed open? Also check the opening pressure of your injectors, if they open at too low a pressure i.e.
I really enjoy your channel! I have a 1978 N/A 924 that starts and idles well cold, but after 6 or so minutes begins to run very rough...jumpy idle (almost dying), bucking acceleration with backfires, if I turn it off it will start up and continue running rough. Do you think it could be the hall effect sender?
Thank you Vincent, I'm glad you like it! In your case I don't think it is the hall effect sender, I would start with looking at your fuel pressures, this sounds more like a warm up regulator(WUR) that is no longer functioning within spec. A simple way to check, if you do not have a CIS pressure tester, is to set you cars idle mixture when it is warm and sputtering so that it runs smoothly. From the sound of it, it is running too lean when warm so you need to make it richer. Then if my suspicion is correct you will struggle starting it when cold. If that is the case, you need to rebuild your WUR.
I think i have this issue as well :( but now i have a biig issue. I do not find any souce of it online :( where did you get yours from? Cheers from Germany
I believe that it's called a reluctor type sensor and not a hall sensor. 🙂
Thank you for the clarification Simon!
Brilliant video
I'm a member of the Porsche 924 club in the UK I will post your channel so member's can see your great work
Thank you very much!
How the hell did I miss this channel?! Subd! Great to see more 924 content!
Thanks! I have been subscribed to your channel for a while now too. Us 924 lovers need to support one another 😁
Yeah me too, how did I miss this channel! Good work diagnosing that fault.
Hoi, ik heb zelf ook een Porsche 924 gehad. De beste upgrade die ik heb gedaan, was het vervangen van de K-jetronic naar carburator. Meer power, geen gedoe met vaper lock of wat dan ook 👌🏼
Een setje dubbel Weber carburateurs op een 924 klink wel heel lekker! Ik heb jaren geleden geleerd hoe ik de K-jet systeem moest reviseren en afstellen en vind het concept van K-jet eigenlijk ook best gaaf, dus bij mij zal er niet zo snel carburateurs op komen. Een supercharger daarentegen, daar zit ik wel aan te denken...
@@GarageBiljon wel, de reden dat ik de ombouw heb gedaan was voornamelijk omdat er maar weinig personen zijn die dit systeem degelijk kunnen afstellen 😅 Misschien wel interessant om te weten mocht er nog eentje op de oprit komen te staan 😁
Roof rack part #??
I had this issue with a Mk2F Polo where when hot the signal from hall sensor in bosch distributor kept breaking down, VW could only refurb my distributor on exchange basis at significant cost.
This one really did my head in, I was chasing it for quite some time. But all in this did not cost me more than 40 euro to fix.
Im dealing with a 1978 924 with a hot start issue. The previous owner did a bunch of makeshift wiring fixes trying to chase an electrical problem, and ive narrowed it down to either this issue, or i need a rebuild done on the fuel distributor.
Ive replaced every other component aside from the distributor cap, coil, and wires, fuel lines, and injectors.
Just struggling to decide where to put money from here. I'm nearly decided to fully scrap the stock engine and fuel system and put an LS in it as it would give more power with less hassle and issues.
Any advice to get it going would be much appreciated, though, as I would like to keep it in its former glory as long as I can.
I have driven the car multiple times, and it drives just fine until it is shut off and wont start again that is. 😂
Tough to give you advice without more information, what symptoms are you experiencing?
@GarageBiljon
On initial start up (cold) it starts fine, 1-3 seconds. Sputters a bit for about 3-4 seconds then will run about 500-700 rpm for the first 10 minutes then it levels to about 900rpm.
If at any point; before, after, during warmup, doesn't matter, the car shuts off; it will not restart.
If you turn the key on for ~0.5 seconds, and it doesn't start, it isn't going to.
It will turn over, injectors spray fuel, plugs have spark, it just will not start.
Psi is 50~80 at the WUR as well from the fuel distributor.
I've rebuilt the WUR, ultrasonic cleaned the injectors, and replaced the accumulators. I've also put in new spark plugs (old ones were fouled pretty badly) this changed the cold start a bit, but nothing for hot start.
I've not yet cracked the fuel distributor open. That's my next step. I have a rebuild kit for it, and was going to spend this week tackling that in my free time.
Beyond that, I can't think of what else it'd be.
Previous owner has a ratnest of wires in the whole engine bay. I'm going through the process of cutting all those out and removing the 100 extra ground lines strewn about the place, hopefully that'll help some of the issue.
@@TheQuassom it sounds like flooding to me, have you checked that your cold start valve has not failed open? Also check the opening pressure of your injectors, if they open at too low a pressure i.e.
@@GarageBiljon I'll have to look into those and how to test them. I'm really trying to not chase the problem but grab it at the base. Haha
I really enjoy your channel! I have a 1978 N/A 924 that starts and idles well cold, but after 6 or so minutes begins to run very rough...jumpy idle (almost dying), bucking acceleration with backfires, if I turn it off it will start up and continue running rough. Do you think it could be the hall effect sender?
Thank you Vincent, I'm glad you like it! In your case I don't think it is the hall effect sender, I would start with looking at your fuel pressures, this sounds more like a warm up regulator(WUR) that is no longer functioning within spec. A simple way to check, if you do not have a CIS pressure tester, is to set you cars idle mixture when it is warm and sputtering so that it runs smoothly. From the sound of it, it is running too lean when warm so you need to make it richer. Then if my suspicion is correct you will struggle starting it when cold. If that is the case, you need to rebuild your WUR.
I think i have this issue as well :( but now i have a biig issue. I do not find any souce of it online :( where did you get yours from? Cheers from Germany
Try this link www.autodoc.de/autoteile/oem/035905205a
Hoor ik je nu 20 graden BTDC zeggen….? Het moet toch 10 zijn.
Yeah what are you doing 20 ?
Eens, ik was even de weg kwijt 😅