On the on hand, this is basically a commercial for header modeling blocks. On the other hand, these are one of the coolest tools I have ever seen. I am completely new to header and exhaust fabrication, for all I know these are commonplace in the industry, but still.
A tip that I figured out when using the mock up kit is to make a line from one end to the other with a dry erase marker. This allows you to find the proper orientation if anything moves while taking it out to transfer to tubing. The kit is amazing, my first set of headers were 2" fender exit on a '64 GTO, I think they turned out great.
Awesome upload my Guy, your knowledge and experience/skill level displayment is very much appreciated. This upload will help me tremendously to start out on this new hobby/profession. Keep informing the people...
I have built over 40 sets of custom headers in the 20 + years I was doing that type of work. If I ever built another set I would use those modeling blocks simply for the reason of having reality more closely match fantasy in the final product
Bill Clark until you realize a case of them is $1,399 🤦♂️ $1,500 for a box of big legos. This is why America our sources everything. American inventors always want a fortune for simple products.
@@mrmidnight32 Products like this aren't intended for one time users. They are for people building headers regularly that are looking to increase productivity and profit on their work. They pay for themselves over time with the time they can save on multiple header builds. Companies like Amazon and Walmart have spoiled everyone into thinking that everything can be had for $9.99 and free shipping. Icengineworks is a small company producing and product to assist people. They can't mass produce these on a scale large enough to make them $100. We all like to get paid well enough to at least make a living and I'm sure you're no different. American Inventors get hosed because everyone has become too cheap and misinformed to what it really takes to make a quality product and also make a living doing it without having to outsource to a foreign manufacturer.
Theres no need to purge the pipe for the tig welding? Not to create "sugar" on the interior side of each weld.... Anyway, great machinery and methods !
Ya. Dude did great! We have the same helmet (miller us flag) , gloves, tools, etc. I said, "I like this guy" great welding also and instructional content
I built my own headers for my project, a Gen 3 Hemi in a 92 Chrysler Lebaron SS/GT. it wasn't a real easy job, they turned out pretty good. Now, those modelling tubes would have been awesome....I used aluminum fuel line as bend surrogates, also, my headers were step tube, started out as 2 1/8, to 2 1/4 ending with 2 3/8. They don't look as pretty, but they are real close to equal length. Step tube headers make a lot more power due to the "release" velocity thru the tube, but are more troublesome to make.
freaking genius who ever came out with that header kit that's got to be the coolest thing i have seen the only thing that sucks is the price there very expensive but i guess they will pay for them selves specially if you build lots of headers but a great tool to improve and make your fab skills better.
You have the right idea. They are made for those that will be making many sets of headers and can utilize the blocks many times over. They will pay for themselves over time
Do you fusion weld the butt joints? Its hard to tell if you were tacking or fully welding in the video since it was sped up but i didnt see any filler rod lol
The seams were fusion-welded as much as possible only adding rod if needed. I put a premium on no gap seams so I can do that. It allows for a lower weld temperature keeping to base material from getting too hot and therefore becoming more brittle while also limiting "sugaring" on the inside. I've used this technique for years and welded somewhere between 30-40 sets of headers with no cracking or other issues.
Trick-Tools.com awesome, thanks for the reply, im about to tackle a set of zoomies and been hunting different ways guys build stuff, id rather spend more time dealing with perfect fit up then adding filler rod on every joint. Everything you said makes sense so thats the method im using. Thanks again!
Very Well Done in regards to Information and Presentation! When you started welding pieces of previously cut tubes I wasn't sure how you arranged each piece to have right angles just before welding.
All of the pieces were tacked together in the car in place. If you do need to remove them to tack I recommend marking the clocking of the tubes with a sharpie across the weld seam.
damn, those modelling blocks look UNREAL!!!! See for me I lack the imagination to see a product until it's actually finished, whereas most people can visualise their jobs, no matter how hard I try I cannot, if only I had the money for a set! That would be something that helps and saves sooo much damn time.
likely the 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 kit. we can't recommend an exact fit unfortunately. I would consult with SPDexhaust.com to determine what may be necessary for your application
great video I'm going to have to replicate OEM exhaust headers for a 42 year old bike. There are no good online options. :( for me buying that plastic kit is counter productive as i have the originals to copy on hand. but the cutting jig and tips are handy.
Back purging is more necessary for forced induction engines and not always necessary for a stainless weld to be strong. Stainless filler should be kept on a needed basis, stainless is better atoginisely welded to keep as pure base material as possible. Most filler is good on purity but not as strong as base, in the milk processing industry/food industry they will sheer off their own filler rods from the base material their welding and everything is accounted for and strictly monitored. Same with aerospace in some circumstances.
When welding the primary tube butt joints, do you leave the tubes flat with no bevel? Do you feel the longevity of the manifold is as good when you use filler vs no filler? Any pulse used during your welds?
In the Aerospace industry we always back purged because of the class 1 x-ray quality standards. If you did it on a set of headers, it would be way better but you would add more cost because of your Argon use . Great video and awesome talent and tools .
That is why we recommend buying pre-bent materials for small jobs. The type of bender required is a large investment and typically made buy companies working to mass produce parts
@@TrickTools Heard That! After spending two long days modifying the Dies and rienforcing the design from Eastwood I got it to work really nice only added about 100 lbs of material. I Definitely did it the hard way! but I can now bend 2"x 1/8 wall stainless tube. wahooo
The design of the headers was based off of the specs of the engine and the amount of airflow needed to allow the exhaust gases to properly exit the cylinder heads
Looked like you didn’t use filler wire on any of those butt welds. Would it be less likely to crack if filler was used and the pipes have a very small bevel? Or not really necessary?
With perfect fit up at the weld joints, filler rod is only used when needed. With proper heat and technique penetration through the seam can be achieved without compromising the tube strength. This process is plenty strong and has been proven many times. These specific headers have seen 2 racing seasons and are still in great shape.
How do you determin which primary tube goes on the collector position. Should the tubes be in a clockwise firing order on the collector or doesn't it matter.
Hi, Thanks for watching. It depends on your application. On most applications you wont notice any difference in the location of the primary tubes in the collectors. For space reasons sometimes you would be limited to which tubes have to go in each location as well. Hope this helps
Very good video. Excellent work. I've done several two into ones including compound tapered bends and collectors. I use a wire for measuring the same way you use your tape rule. Never seen the modeling blocks before, they are now on the list. My only criticism is that no experienced fabricator uses gloves of any type in any shop that has machinery with moving components. Doing so is the very wrong example for novices. I hope you are not forced to allow insurance companies to dictate how work / play is to be conducted in that nice facility.
Thanks for the reply. I will say that I am a very experienced fabricator with 15 years and over ten thousand hours under my belt. I use gloves regularly to protect my skin from molten metal sparks and sharp edges and I have never fallen victim to a machine because I make sure that I keep my hands away from pinch points and away from the parts that will catch you. I always hold my parts and position myself to in a way that If I slip I wont push my hand into the machine. Most accidents happen because people are careless with hand placement and set themselves up for failure. Thanks for looking out and I will say that we get hate mail when we do and don't wear PPE. Everyone has a different way.
Is it also right that as all primaries are the same length and material that they will expand with heat at the same rate and that reduces stress or the risk of cracking? Or is that not really an issue if they were not the same length?
Thanks for a clear demonstration. Can you recommend an entry level TIG machine? I would like to fab my own headers out of stainless. More hobbyists than pro, but would like to avoid the head aches of a lesser machine.
Best video I have seen yet about building a set of headers, and some great recommendations on tools. Do you believe a TIG is absolutely necessary, will a MIG do the job?
You guys know how to extract most of my imaginary money ! There isnt a bad idea in your product line. These are truely tools made by guys that ACTUAL DO THE WORK.
i have fabrication and machining experience, but none with building manifolds, i do understand flow dynamics and so on... was just looking at this to make the process even easier in regards to routing of the piping.
unfortunately we only build projects for the purpose of making videos. we don't do regular customer jobs in house. there are many talented header builders around to country though.
They don't give you horsepower the most horsepower you can get is right after the header. A trick is to weld a pipe on the collector and paint it were the paint burns off after running it is were to cut it for most power.
So can you make a video on how to start from scratch to finish for all sizes of engines. Like say you have a stock v6. Then you SuperCharged it. As well as cold air intake and bigger intake manifold. How would you test and figure out the best size of exhaust for best hp torque and gas mileage? And how to keep back pressure and or get ride of some. Maybe a video on how to cut the cats off. And use the stock headers and add on the tubs? Idk. Perhaps a schooling video on how to choose the perfect exhaust system based on size of motor and how manny cylinders it has. I don’t know how to explain my question. Every car has a different inch of exhaust and length of exhaust and what not. But how do you figure out that size and length? That’s what I’m confused about and what I’m trying to train myself and teach myself how to learn that.
the best way to know what materials you need for your headers is to build your engine how you want it, to know all of the detailed specs about it. Then get a hold of SPDExhaust.com and they will use your specs provided to assist you in material selection.
the type of bender it takes to bend this type of tubing is mandrel bender. standard tubing benders wont bend thin wall Header or Exhaust materials. the mandrel benders that we sell start around $59,000. you cant bend this material on a regular tube and pipe bender.
I could almost say the modeling kit Is the best tool in the world for building headers but.. the price is waaaaay to expensive for some plastic.. so much it's more worth to build the same thing DIY.. :(
@@TrickTools I noticed in a couple of frames the one side of the pipe was a small end (male) fitting into the larger end (female). Wouldn't you want the male end always going away from the head into the female end
there are no slip joints in these headers other than the tubes into the collectors. what you are seeing is the step up from 2 1/4" to 2 3/8" in each tube which we achieved by expanding the 2 1/4" tube to 2 3/8" and then butt welding them together.
Back purging is not mandatory. while it has benefits, proper welding technique will achieve good results. I've built over 40 sets of headers and many exhaust systems and most weren't purged. no issues have resulted in the non-purged systems.
On the on hand, this is basically a commercial for header modeling blocks. On the other hand, these are one of the coolest tools I have ever seen. I am completely new to header and exhaust fabrication, for all I know these are commonplace in the industry, but still.
A tip that I figured out when using the mock up kit is to make a line from one end to the other with a dry erase marker. This allows you to find the proper orientation if anything moves while taking it out to transfer to tubing. The kit is amazing, my first set of headers were 2" fender exit on a '64 GTO, I think they turned out great.
I have one of your tubing benders and love it . I called up the company and your service was great.
Wow that definitely makes things easier! After watching this I'm confident enough to give it a try! Thanks😁
The plastic blocks are the best , easy to use and headers come out perfect. Best money I have spent on a tool.
damn those modeling blocks are genius
Awesome upload my Guy, your knowledge and experience/skill level displayment is very much appreciated. This upload will help me tremendously to start out on this new hobby/profession.
Keep informing the people...
I have built over 40 sets of custom headers in the 20 + years I was doing that type of work. If I ever built another set I would use those modeling blocks simply for the reason of having reality more closely match fantasy in the final product
Bill Clark until you realize a case of them is $1,399 🤦♂️
$1,500 for a box of big legos. This is why America our sources everything. American inventors always want a fortune for simple products.
@@mrmidnight32 Products like this aren't intended for one time users. They are for people building headers regularly that are looking to increase productivity and profit on their work. They pay for themselves over time with the time they can save on multiple header builds. Companies like Amazon and Walmart have spoiled everyone into thinking that everything can be had for $9.99 and free shipping. Icengineworks is a small company producing and product to assist people. They can't mass produce these on a scale large enough to make them $100. We all like to get paid well enough to at least make a living and I'm sure you're no different. American Inventors get hosed because everyone has become too cheap and misinformed to what it really takes to make a quality product and also make a living doing it without having to outsource to a foreign manufacturer.
@@prddesign Its refreshing to hear more intelligent points of view sometimes. Thank you.
Hiya thanks for taking the time to show as the video. Learnt a lot👍
Theres no need to purge the pipe for the tig welding? Not to create "sugar" on the interior side of each weld.... Anyway, great machinery and methods !
It's not absolutely nessisary but your welds will last longer if backpurged.
I used a 1 3/4” kit to help design/build a roll cage.
Ya. Dude did great! We have the same helmet (miller us flag) , gloves, tools, etc. I said, "I like this guy" great welding also and instructional content
Geese those modeling blocks are the bomb , I just had to make them by hand which very time consuming !
Ребята вы просто супер! Привет вам из России!!! И респект огромный.
FINALLY SOMEONE MADE SOMETHING LIKE THIS MANNN.
I built my own headers for my project, a Gen 3 Hemi in a 92 Chrysler Lebaron SS/GT. it wasn't a real easy job, they turned out pretty good. Now, those modelling tubes would have been awesome....I used aluminum fuel line as bend surrogates, also, my headers were step tube, started out as 2 1/8, to 2 1/4 ending with 2 3/8. They don't look as pretty, but they are real close to equal length. Step tube headers make a lot more power due to the "release" velocity thru the tube, but are more troublesome to make.
How did your exhaust sound afterwards on the LeBaron?
freaking genius who ever came out with that header kit that's got to be the coolest thing i have seen the only thing that sucks is the price there very expensive but i guess they will pay for them selves specially if you build lots of headers but a great tool to improve and make your fab skills better.
You have the right idea. They are made for those that will be making many sets of headers and can utilize the blocks many times over. They will pay for themselves over time
Nice Job! Great Info! Hope you guys do more of these.
few great tips in the video , many thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
good tips nice info..keep making more video mate
Well something else marked off my life's list of things I'll ever attempt to do myself lol
Will the blocks work correctly for bigger tube?
We have bigger sizes available now. Our latest size is coming out soon 2-1/4"
Do you fusion weld the butt joints? Its hard to tell if you were tacking or fully welding in the video since it was sped up but i didnt see any filler rod lol
The seams were fusion-welded as much as possible only adding rod if needed. I put a premium on no gap seams so I can do that. It allows for a lower weld temperature keeping to base material from getting too hot and therefore becoming more brittle while also limiting "sugaring" on the inside. I've used this technique for years and welded somewhere between 30-40 sets of headers with no cracking or other issues.
Trick-Tools.com awesome, thanks for the reply, im about to tackle a set of zoomies and been hunting different ways guys build stuff, id rather spend more time dealing with perfect fit up then adding filler rod on every joint. Everything you said makes sense so thats the method im using. Thanks again!
Wow those modeling blocks are such a great idea , thanks for sharing , awesome video
Very Well Done in regards to Information and Presentation! When you started welding pieces of previously cut tubes I wasn't sure how you arranged each piece to have right angles just before welding.
All of the pieces were tacked together in the car in place. If you do need to remove them to tack I recommend marking the clocking of the tubes with a sharpie across the weld seam.
Great video
So would that work on tight spaces like a Bmw e46
damn, those modelling blocks look UNREAL!!!! See for me I lack the imagination to see a product until it's actually finished, whereas most people can visualise their jobs, no matter how hard I try I cannot, if only I had the money for a set! That would be something that helps and saves sooo much damn time.
An incredible and instructive video you made. I will definitely adopt your method in my future!.
Can you answer what music was in the video?
Thanks for watching. the music was just royalty free music from Epidemicsound.com
9:24 Wouldn’t it be easier to use a chop saw with a jig, instead of a jig saw?
And one to learn a Tig welder very, very good !!!!!!!!!
Great how to video!
Awesome work!
To build a full long tube header like in this video. Do you need the Pro kit or does the basic kit have enough pieces to get the job done?
the Pro kit would be the best option. the Basic kit wont have enough blocks to model the complete header.
omg you did this on a syncrowave 210 i just bought one
I love mine, had it for 4 years and its been bulletproof
Fablife ftw. I definitely learned something. Keep it up!
VERY VERY GOOD VIDEO.... GREAT JOG GUY'S
Haven't used this word in years, but that's sick!!!!
hmm why were you not using back gas with stainless steel tubing? and how much did you charge for that job- details
What series would i need to buy if i want to build headers for a 17 camaro ss?
likely the 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 kit. we can't recommend an exact fit unfortunately. I would consult with SPDexhaust.com to determine what may be necessary for your application
Those style American cars look soo easy to work on. Stacks of engine bay space
This is not a street car. It is for racing purposes. Typical street driven cars have far less room.
This is free extremely valuable information. Great video and thanks for sharing this.
Just searching for tips. Exhaust manifolds for my old motor are no longer available.
hello. what is that yellow thing that you used help with the setup?
How did you weld all the way around on the pipes going into collector? Seems a bit of a tight squeeze
Big gas cap and extended stickout?
I do want to make some headers with my powertig. Great video.
Nice video, very informative. Thanks!
Thank You
great video I'm going to have to replicate OEM exhaust headers for a 42 year old bike. There are no good online options. :(
for me buying that plastic kit is counter productive as i have the originals to copy on hand. but the cutting jig and tips are handy.
Just curious as to why the stainless headers weren't back purged?
TrickTools You are not using any filler rod correct? Just using a series of tack welds basically one after the other?
Back purging is more necessary for forced induction engines and not always necessary for a stainless weld to be strong. Stainless filler should be kept on a needed basis, stainless is better atoginisely welded to keep as pure base material as possible. Most filler is good on purity but not as strong as base, in the milk processing industry/food industry they will sheer off their own filler rods from the base material their welding and everything is accounted for and strictly monitored. Same with aerospace in some circumstances.
When welding the primary tube butt joints, do you leave the tubes flat with no bevel? Do you feel the longevity of the manifold is as good when you use filler vs no filler? Any pulse used during your welds?
TrickTools looking good😎 trick indeed
In the Aerospace industry we always back purged because of the class 1 x-ray quality standards. If you did it on a set of headers, it would be way better but you would add more cost because of your Argon use . Great video and awesome talent and tools .
Excellant video thanks for posting
Can you use this to make custom intercooler piping?
For sure!
Dude holy crap i want those modeling blocks, any dealers in Australia ?
We do not, however that is a UPS shippable item so it would be easy for us to ship to you. let us know!
Looks nice, not sure if it’d save me any money but I’d just like to build a set myself.
Don’t have TIG though, should be okay to use MIG instead, no?
VERY impressive products!!!
I got a few stick of 20' stainless round. Problem is Stainless won't bend like DOM it kinks and it's takes alot of force. Kinda frustrated
That is why we recommend buying pre-bent materials for small jobs. The type of bender required is a large investment and typically made buy companies working to mass produce parts
@@TrickTools Heard That! After spending two long days modifying the Dies and rienforcing the design from Eastwood
I got it to work really nice only added about 100 lbs of material. I Definitely did it the hard way! but I can now bend 2"x 1/8 wall stainless tube. wahooo
In your design, do you take exhaust scavenging into consideration???
The design of the headers was based off of the specs of the engine and the amount of airflow needed to allow the exhaust gases to properly exit the cylinder heads
What is the name of the yellow constructor and where can I buy it?
Products and links to our website are listed in the video description. Thanks
Looked like you didn’t use filler wire on any of those butt welds. Would it be less likely to crack if filler was used and the pipes have a very small bevel? Or not really necessary?
With perfect fit up at the weld joints, filler rod is only used when needed. With proper heat and technique penetration through the seam can be achieved without compromising the tube strength. This process is plenty strong and has been proven many times. These specific headers have seen 2 racing seasons and are still in great shape.
Muito bom amigo. Voce vende esses kits? Ou é só loja?
Um abraco aqui do brasil.
Good stuff
How do you determin which primary tube goes on the collector position. Should the tubes be in a clockwise firing order on the collector or doesn't it matter.
Hi, Thanks for watching. It depends on your application. On most applications you wont notice any difference in the location of the primary tubes in the collectors. For space reasons sometimes you would be limited to which tubes have to go in each location as well. Hope this helps
do you guys ship worldwide ?
Very good video. Excellent work. I've done several two into ones including compound tapered bends and collectors. I use a wire for measuring the same way you use your tape rule. Never seen the modeling blocks before, they are now on the list. My only criticism is that no experienced fabricator uses gloves of any type in any shop that has machinery with moving components. Doing so is the very wrong example for novices. I hope you are not forced to allow insurance companies to dictate how work / play is to be conducted in that nice facility.
Thanks for the reply. I will say that I am a very experienced fabricator with 15 years and over ten thousand hours under my belt. I use gloves regularly to protect my skin from molten metal sparks and sharp edges and I have never fallen victim to a machine because I make sure that I keep my hands away from pinch points and away from the parts that will catch you. I always hold my parts and position myself to in a way that If I slip I wont push my hand into the machine. Most accidents happen because people are careless with hand placement and set themselves up for failure. Thanks for looking out and I will say that we get hate mail when we do and don't wear PPE. Everyone has a different way.
Is there any need to try to keep each primary tube equal length?
Is it also right that as all primaries are the same length and material that they will expand with heat at the same rate and that reduces stress or the risk of cracking?
Or is that not really an issue if they were not the same length?
What a great vid very informative. 👍
Thanks for a clear demonstration. Can you recommend an entry level TIG machine? I would like to fab my own headers out of stainless. More hobbyists than pro, but would like to avoid the head aches of a lesser machine.
멋집니다.😁
What band saw is that your using?
This was a Dake machine. We have a good selection of vertical band saws on our website www.trick-tools.com
Best video I have seen yet about building a set of headers, and some great recommendations on tools. Do you believe a TIG is absolutely necessary, will a MIG do the job?
Awesome, thanks!
What’s the best type of welding for custom exhaust work?
Nice kit, but it'd be nice if SPD exhaust would list prices on their website. I suppose I'll continue to use Stainlessheaders.com
a simple phone call and they can answer all of your questions, quickly. Nothing beats personal service.
You guys know how to extract most of my imaginary money !
There isnt a bad idea in your product line.
These are truely tools made by guys that ACTUAL DO THE WORK.
that's one trick tool right there
Great video sir!
Sweet work
this kit works for turbo manifolds as well i assume?
i have fabrication and machining experience, but none with building manifolds, i do understand flow dynamics and so on... was just looking at this to make the process even easier in regards to routing of the piping.
OMG, Medusa!😃
Awesome
When are they going to make a modeling kit larger than 2" od. Big ci drag race engines need 2 1/8" all the way up to 2 1/2".
Thanks
What's the angle tool called?, where do i buy it
Great vid thanks
first time viewing your channel, would like to know if you build headers for motorcycles and if you do not, could you furnish an effective sourse
unfortunately we only build projects for the purpose of making videos. we don't do regular customer jobs in house. there are many talented header builders around to country though.
Does this tutorial also cover custom turbo manifold fabrications???
Vaios Kaliakoudas if you can make the shape with the tools shown and weld it, yes
If aftermarket mufflers Magnaflow or borla give you horsepower, why are there headers going out on the fenders and not all the way back?
They don't give you horsepower the most horsepower you can get is right after the header. A trick is to weld a pipe on the collector and paint it were the paint burns off after running it is were to cut it for most power.
What Tube Bender(S) did you use? Thanks.
we bought these bends from SPD Exhaust. While we sell the necessary benders they are extremely expensive and made for production use
So can you make a video on how to start from scratch to finish for all sizes of engines. Like say you have a stock v6. Then you SuperCharged it. As well as cold air intake and bigger intake manifold. How would you test and figure out the best size of exhaust for best hp torque and gas mileage? And how to keep back pressure and or get ride of some. Maybe a video on how to cut the cats off. And use the stock headers and add on the tubs? Idk. Perhaps a schooling video on how to choose the perfect exhaust system based on size of motor and how manny cylinders it has. I don’t know how to explain my question. Every car has a different inch of exhaust and length of exhaust and what not. But how do you figure out that size and length? That’s what I’m confused about and what I’m trying to train myself and teach myself how to learn that.
Same here! If you find out, let me know! I'm also curious about it...
the best way to know what materials you need for your headers is to build your engine how you want it, to know all of the detailed specs about it. Then get a hold of SPDExhaust.com and they will use your specs provided to assist you in material selection.
For the selling price of the "icengineworks" kit I buy a very nice pipe bender and still have money left...
the type of bender it takes to bend this type of tubing is mandrel bender. standard tubing benders wont bend thin wall Header or Exhaust materials. the mandrel benders that we sell start around $59,000. you cant bend this material on a regular tube and pipe bender.
I could almost say the modeling kit Is the best tool in the world for building headers but.. the price is waaaaay to expensive for some plastic.. so much it's more worth to build the same thing DIY.. :(
These modeling systems are intended for builders that make many many sets of headers. we agree they aren't worth the price for one time use.
uau demais amigo!!!!
Its all stainless pipe
Kansas POWER!!!
Maybe I'm wrong but it looks like you have female end of the pipe coming off the head first. Wouldnt you want that the other way around
not sure what you are referring to?
@@TrickTools I noticed in a couple of frames the one side of the pipe was a small end (male) fitting into the larger end (female). Wouldn't you want the male end always going away from the head into the female end
there are no slip joints in these headers other than the tubes into the collectors. what you are seeing is the step up from 2 1/4" to 2 3/8" in each tube which we achieved by expanding the 2 1/4" tube to 2 3/8" and then butt welding them together.
@@TrickTools no kidding. That's amazing
For plastic its awful damn expensive! 4 to 600 dollars is just nuts 🥜😢
No argon inside pipes ??? Newbie....
Back purging is not mandatory. while it has benefits, proper welding technique will achieve good results. I've built over 40 sets of headers and many exhaust systems and most weren't purged. no issues have resulted in the non-purged systems.
remove the noise or music.
Oh wow
Cool
Can I pay you to build me some?