Great video, loved the humour side to it as well as the obvious great coins made. A little envious of all the gear you have, one day I will get there =)
Glad you’re not the TH-cam that’s “perfect”.... I did this coin In one take and this is what I did.... that kinda skews the journey of a project for people watching cause when they decide to do it and stumble upon problems we get discouraged cause the TH-camr did it so easily and perfectly... love the transparency!
This was great, informative and entertaining, great editing! I'm looking to cast some of my 3D models in pewter and this is how i was wanting to do it!
@@NerdsMakers U R welcome 🙏. BTW check out my play list when you get the chance I think U will like it. th-cam.com/play/PLj7bM31HGrGjg_iOO2dXBnGBaa0UwaaBn.html
I have a background in make-up and creature effects, so this was a natural progression for me. I don't know of a good resource since I sorta made it up as I went.
I have some coins I want to make but just my living situation wouldn’t allow the stuff you did. Trying to find someone here in Florida to make some molds 😂 to send somewhere else to get made. Harder than it lolks
Thanks to you posting the box I'm waiting for my Mold Max 60. Thanks so much for the video! You both inspired and informed. Any advice on how to get more comfortable with Fusion 360?
The printer is a MSLA (masked stereolithography) resin printer, in this case an Elegoo Mars (link in the description). It uses UV light to cure a photo reactive liquid resin into hard plastic. The software used to design the coin (see part 1) and then the mold is Fusion360, both saved in the .stl file format. Before it can be printed though the model needs to be sliced, I used Chitubox for that. There's links to all equipment and materials in the description.
Just starting to learn casting (as in my foundry is being shipped) would love to know how you made high detail molds like that and if you sell custom molds or know how someone starting out can get molds that show good detail like yours
I’m afraid not. This works because of the relatively low melting point of pewter. If you tried this with any of those it would probably result in a fire.
Question: Do you think you would have produced the same resolution if you had used a high temp resin thermoform directly from an SLA printer vs creating a hard cast and then using high temp silicon to create the mold as an external process?
hmm, hard to say. I think it might have been difficult to cast the coins since it would be a rigid material in a rigid mold. I can't help but wonder about thermal expansion too. That was a bit of an issue with the silicone molds, and I had to remember to heat the backsides with a heat gun or the molds would begin to dish.
Hi, will it be possible for you to show the mold how to design? Or maybe have it available??? You can remove the coin and sent only the mold if possible.
Nice video, including the problems you had. So many don't want to show screwups, but that's how we all learn. Would you happen to have the STL file for your mold? Not the coin itself, but the box with the key registers and such.
my coins are about 45mm across and 3-5mm thick depending on where you measure. The mold is designed to intersect the coins at half the thickness. Good luck and send a pic when you make them!
If we wanted to inset our own coins into the mold, are there specifications for the height of the coin that we need to conform to? Or does it not matter?
@@NerdsMakers thanks for the reply, I just wasn't sure because the sprue is a certain thickness and I wasn't sure if the sprue (not sure if that's the technical term for the place that makes the gap where you pour the metal or not but that's what I mean) needs to reach the thickness of the coin or if it will fill out nicely either way
@@Aracaifon Good point, the gate (that's what it's called, the part that connects the runner, or funnel, to the part) should be just smaller than the thickness of the coin, otherwise you may not get a good fill or have an unnecessary amount of cleanup.
That's amazing! Does it work with any metal(ex: aluminum)? Are there rules to respect in order not to damage the mold? Big thanks to anyone who answers!
It will only work with low temp metal like tin and pewter, the silicone is good to about 560º. I use a laser thermometer to keep the pewter at around 500º (no small task since my hotpot goes higher and has no thermostat built in).
Great video! Question, did you find any clearance issues with your resin prints? I’m getting ready to resin print some of my own that I modeled similarly to yours and am wondering if you had to leave clearance like you typically have to with FDM printing? Or did the silicone end up lining up pretty seamlessly without clearances added in?
I had more issues with slight warping with the prints, but the silicone molds lined up just fine. A much bigger problem is the asymmetric heat expansion of the molds when casting. As more and more coins were cast the molds would start to “dish”. A combination of letting it cool a bit and hitting the backside with a heat gun helped.
@@ThinAir-3D As you can see in the video my first attempt at the print was tilted forward, unfortunately this created a suction problem and my print was deformed. The only other orientation I tried was simply tilted sideways. Since this alleviated the suction problem I just went with it, but the walls were slightly warped, I could have probably experimented with a few other orientations, and maybe some different resins and settings, but I was already burning through materials and supplies from the other goofs.
@@NerdsMakers Got it, thanks for the response! I finally finished redesigning the box for my needs and have the first print going now! Wish me luck, haha
I'm honestly not sure. I've pulled about 40 from the first mold, and just got some more pewter recently to do some more, so I guess I'll find out soon.
Hey, loved the video and the fact you kept in the issues you faced along the way! I'm following your example and designing some of my own. I totally get why you didn't include the coin in the f360 design, but could I ask, how thick did you make the coin? How thick is the thickest bit, and how thin did you go with the recesses? Cheers!
@Nerds&Makers One other question as I'm about to finally have the materials to give it a go myself: How thick did you have to make the extrusion of the text and logo etc from the coin face? I'm not sure how shallow of detail the pewter can pick up?
I have no idea what I'd even charge. I'll tell you what, email me at tommy@nerdsandmakers.com and I'll send you a link. If you find it useful, maybe throw me some moola at PayPal.me/geekytom
How long does the mold last? I'm also in the military and in trying to make my troop challenge coin. Do you take commission work? Wanted to see if you could make the resin mold case for us. Thank you.
So far I’ve made about 50 coins and the mold seems fine, this particular silicone is pretty hearty. I do indeed do commissions, just finished one in fact, but I doubt I can compete price-wise with all the companies that specialize in challenge coins. I’m certainly willing to discuss it though.
Just found this video, awesome work! I've heard differing views on using a vacuum chamber to clear the bubbles from the Mold Max. Any thoughts one way or the other?
I worried a bit about that, but used caution when mixing and a slow thin stream when pouring to reduce the possibility. Poured a total of five, didn’t have a single bubble.
What cad did you use to design the coin faces? (not Fusion?) I have a Saturn and Fusion and Zbrush. Doing the coin designs in the Zb. Great video even without any talking.
okay, now that was an awesome video! The end results were fantastic! Thanks for showing the trial and error!
thanks man :-)
Wow i have been looking on TH-cam for like 4 hours for a video like this. This is exactly what i needed. Its perfect!
Thanks very much :-)
Been scouring yt for days for something exactly like this, this is so much more refined a solution than I ever dreamed of!
I’m inspired now!
I was so frustrated for you! That goodness the end result was so satisfying.
Brilliant. Loved this video. The whole process including the mistakes, this is something I need to have a go off. 💪
That was so satisfying! Those coins turned out awesome!
Amazing video, inspire me!
So Great, I am going to try out this method and make a copy of my existing rare coin!
Great video, loved the humour side to it as well as the obvious great coins made. A little envious of all the gear you have, one day I will get there =)
Awesome video! Great job editing out the boring stuff. I'll have to try this technique!
Glad you’re not the TH-cam that’s “perfect”.... I did this coin In one take and this is what I did.... that kinda skews the journey of a project for people watching cause when they decide to do it and stumble upon problems we get discouraged cause the TH-camr did it so easily and perfectly... love the transparency!
thanks very much. I look at every screw up as a perfect opportunity for a laugh. Maybe not at the time, but certainly in the edit :-)
Great video
Awesome build, liked part 1 too. We have been playing with our 3d printed coins also, but casting them would be epic
Excellent... That smile at the end got my Sub...!
And that sub got me another smile this morning :-)
@@NerdsMakers Happy to be the Smile...Giver. is that a thing..? It is now!
Excellent video, thanks for sharing!
I was surprised the Mold Max 60 could handle the heat! I'd only worked with resin and Merlin's Magic when it comes to Mold Max.
Outstanding video! I've been trying to learn more about casting pewter, and this was amazing!
thanks!
This was great, informative and entertaining, great editing! I'm looking to cast some of my 3D models in pewter and this is how i was wanting to do it!
thanks very much :-)
Loved this, can't wait to see more.
That"s fantastic. I learned a lot from this video, thank you :)
glad you liked it :-)
@@NerdsMakers yeah man. its great. very clear.
Hopefully one day I could get hold of one of those... all I have are cool stickers :D
Great video (both of them)...... fun, well shot, informative
thanks!
Great video, cool product 👍
Perfect
In the Immoral words of of the Dragon Warrior. "That was AWESOME".
high praise indeed :-)
@@NerdsMakers U R welcome 🙏. BTW check out my play list when you get the chance I think U will like it. th-cam.com/play/PLj7bM31HGrGjg_iOO2dXBnGBaa0UwaaBn.html
Awesome! Thank you!
You're welcome!
Awesome 👌🏻👍🏻
Amazing - Subbed - Keep up the awesome builds and tutorials :)
Thanks, will do!
Your content is so cool!
This idea of printing a mold, to make a mold. Is there a good resource to learn more about this? And how to do it?
I have a background in make-up and creature effects, so this was a natural progression for me. I don't know of a good resource since I sorta made it up as I went.
That was awesome! You could print counterfeit quarters and do laundry for free!
Such a kick ass video!!!!!
thanks very much :-)
I have some coins I want to make but just my living situation wouldn’t allow the stuff you did. Trying to find someone here in Florida to make some molds 😂 to send somewhere else to get made. Harder than it lolks
Can the mold make copper/brass coin? Would it hold well or the mold be broken?
Thanks to you posting the box I'm waiting for my Mold Max 60. Thanks so much for the video! You both inspired and informed. Any advice on how to get more comfortable with Fusion 360?
time, patience and fortitude :-)
Can you please explain the equipment you used and the software. I’m trying to learn more and get into coin making.
The printer is a MSLA (masked stereolithography) resin printer, in this case an Elegoo Mars (link in the description). It uses UV light to cure a photo reactive liquid resin into hard plastic. The software used to design the coin (see part 1) and then the mold is Fusion360, both saved in the .stl file format. Before it can be printed though the model needs to be sliced, I used Chitubox for that. There's links to all equipment and materials in the description.
Just starting to learn casting (as in my foundry is being shipped) would love to know how you made high detail molds like that and if you sell custom molds or know how someone starting out can get molds that show good detail like yours
It’s pretty much all in the video, the secret to detail is printing a high quality model on a resin printer.
This is exactly what I need. Would that thing be able to cast silver, brass, and copper?
I’m afraid not. This works because of the relatively low melting point of pewter. If you tried this with any of those it would probably result in a fire.
@@NerdsMakers Do you think it would be possible to make something like this out of graphite?
@@kingchad5936 hmm, I have no idea, but that’s an intriguing concept
Question: Do you think you would have produced the same resolution if you had used a high temp resin thermoform directly from an SLA printer vs creating a hard cast and then using high temp silicon to create the mold as an external process?
hmm, hard to say. I think it might have been difficult to cast the coins since it would be a rigid material in a rigid mold. I can't help but wonder about thermal expansion too. That was a bit of an issue with the silicone molds, and I had to remember to heat the backsides with a heat gun or the molds would begin to dish.
Hi, will it be possible for you to show the mold how to design? Or maybe have it available??? You can remove the coin and sent only the mold if possible.
added a link in the description
@@NerdsMakers You are the best!!!! Thank you so much!!!!
Awesome and inspiring! Where can I get the pewter and how are you melting it? Thanks man!
thanks! I got mine from Amazon, links in the description
Nice video, including the problems you had. So many don't want to show screwups, but that's how we all learn. Would you happen to have the STL file for your mold? Not the coin itself, but the box with the key registers and such.
Hi James, send me an email tommy@nerdsandmakers.com
Would you sell that mold or the plans for the mold. I have a coin I would like to cast for a family reunion, but have no way to 3d print the mold.
Get some Flitz and polish those up, son! Mirror FINISH!
I plan to do some high polish ones with the next batch, I'd like to figure out how to get a gold finish too
Great video. One question: What is the recommended width for the coin? Cheers from Brazil!
my coins are about 45mm across and 3-5mm thick depending on where you measure. The mold is designed to intersect the coins at half the thickness. Good luck and send a pic when you make them!
If we wanted to inset our own coins into the mold, are there specifications for the height of the coin that we need to conform to? Or does it not matter?
It doesn't really matter, my coins are about 45mm across and 4mm thick at their thickest point though
@@NerdsMakers thanks for the reply, I just wasn't sure because the sprue is a certain thickness and I wasn't sure if the sprue (not sure if that's the technical term for the place that makes the gap where you pour the metal or not but that's what I mean) needs to reach the thickness of the coin or if it will fill out nicely either way
@@Aracaifon Good point, the gate (that's what it's called, the part that connects the runner, or funnel, to the part) should be just smaller than the thickness of the coin, otherwise you may not get a good fill or have an unnecessary amount of cleanup.
That's amazing! Does it work with any metal(ex: aluminum)? Are there rules to respect in order not to damage the mold?
Big thanks to anyone who answers!
It will only work with low temp metal like tin and pewter, the silicone is good to about 560º. I use a laser thermometer to keep the pewter at around 500º (no small task since my hotpot goes higher and has no thermostat built in).
Great video! Question, did you find any clearance issues with your resin prints?
I’m getting ready to resin print some of my own that I modeled similarly to yours and am wondering if you had to leave clearance like you typically have to with FDM printing? Or did the silicone end up lining up pretty seamlessly without clearances added in?
I had more issues with slight warping with the prints, but the silicone molds lined up just fine. A much bigger problem is the asymmetric heat expansion of the molds when casting. As more and more coins were cast the molds would start to “dish”. A combination of letting it cool a bit and hitting the backside with a heat gun helped.
@@NerdsMakers Thanks for the detailed response!
@@NerdsMakers Ok quick follow up question. Did you find an optimal print orientation for your resin prints that helped alleviate warping?
@@ThinAir-3D As you can see in the video my first attempt at the print was tilted forward, unfortunately this created a suction problem and my print was deformed. The only other orientation I tried was simply tilted sideways. Since this alleviated the suction problem I just went with it, but the walls were slightly warped, I could have probably experimented with a few other orientations, and maybe some different resins and settings, but I was already burning through materials and supplies from the other goofs.
@@NerdsMakers Got it, thanks for the response! I finally finished redesigning the box for my needs and have the first print going now! Wish me luck, haha
How many coins do you think you can cast before you have to remake another mold?
I'm honestly not sure. I've pulled about 40 from the first mold, and just got some more pewter recently to do some more, so I guess I'll find out soon.
@@NerdsMakers Thanks! It seems the hardest part of it all is making the first mold then!
Hey, loved the video and the fact you kept in the issues you faced along the way! I'm following your example and designing some of my own. I totally get why you didn't include the coin in the f360 design, but could I ask, how thick did you make the coin? How thick is the thickest bit, and how thin did you go with the recesses? Cheers!
It’s about 3mm thick at the thinnest point, which is the main disc, the thickest point is about 5.3mm
@@NerdsMakers ta muchly!
@Nerds&Makers One other question as I'm about to finally have the materials to give it a go myself: How thick did you have to make the extrusion of the text and logo etc from the coin face? I'm not sure how shallow of detail the pewter can pick up?
Any chance that you would share or sell the Fusion 360 mold form design (without your coin detail)? It looks great!
I have no idea what I'd even charge. I'll tell you what, email me at tommy@nerdsandmakers.com and I'll send you a link. If you find it useful, maybe throw me some moola at PayPal.me/geekytom
Definitely going to do this. How many coins do you get from a 1 lb bar of pewter?
my particular coins came in at about 1oz each, your mileage may vary
how much if you make my own design??
How long does the mold last?
I'm also in the military and in trying to make my troop challenge coin. Do you take commission work? Wanted to see if you could make the resin mold case for us. Thank you.
So far I’ve made about 50 coins and the mold seems fine, this particular silicone is pretty hearty.
I do indeed do commissions, just finished one in fact, but I doubt I can compete price-wise with all the companies that specialize in challenge coins. I’m certainly willing to discuss it though.
Just found this video, awesome work! I've heard differing views on using a vacuum chamber to clear the bubbles from the Mold Max. Any thoughts one way or the other?
I worried a bit about that, but used caution when mixing and a slow thin stream when pouring to reduce the possibility. Poured a total of five, didn’t have a single bubble.
What cad did you use to design the coin faces? (not Fusion?) I have a Saturn and Fusion and Zbrush. Doing the coin designs in the Zb. Great video even without any talking.
the coin was done in Fusion as well, and documented in the part one video
Printer model ?
That was done with my old Elegoo Mars, I’ve since upgraded to a Saturn 2 and just got a Mars 4
How much would you charge me to make a 3D print of my American bully logo in the size of a coin
email me, let's chat. tommy@nerdsandmakers.com
I’m guessing that was a frustrated project you’ve ever done?
No, I’ve had way more frustrating projects. In the end it worked out, but I certainly hit some speed bumps.
Found you from ‘you know Instagram’. 💪💪💪💪