Five Easy Ways to Make EPIC Coins at Home!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
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Have you ever craved a currency of your own? Coins that can facilitate the RULING of an economy, the devastation of your enemies, the expansion of an EMPIRE.... You know, everyone's dream. Today we are going over FIVE easy ways to make coins at home. Now anyone can be the financial mogul they've always wanted to be...
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I'm a simple dragon. I see coins, I click.
Now you can add to your own HOARD
Same...
Does make me wonder if, since nations that rely of the ocean or river around them have used shells as currency, do water dragons hoard shells?!? Oh the head cannon.
@@Jaeler9 not Shiny from Moana playing in my head right now...
I could use a simple dragon friend
Hey, Cl3ver: Note about the laser substrate trick, it's to reduce refraction/reflection. When the laser fires into the substrate, a higher percentage of the energy is absorbed by the piece, and reduces how much laser light bends/bounces away, therefore reducing damage to the laser/laser housing/eyes.
Yeah, that made me twitchy.... and then again at 20 minutes he recommended walking away from the laser for 20 minutes. As a rule, shouldn't walk away from a laser while it is running.
@@GrimolfrBrytrok it's just like a candle, imho, in that it PROBABLY is fine to leave alone, but it also could start a fire, at some point, eventually
More important for silver as it is so reflective
@@jan_haraldit literally works by burning (or melting in some cases) through the material. You think that carbon build up on the edge of the cuts is what exactly? The only moderation of said fire is time and laser intensity neither of which are part of a feedback loop. It's your house, but its not an "eventually".
Jesus is the only way. We have all sinned and deserve Hell. Sins that may seem small in our eyes are big in God's and are worthy of Hell, such as lying lusting and stealing. But if we repent and trust only in Jesus, he is faithful and will save us from Hell and give us eternal life in Heaven. Trust in Jesus!
John 3:16
Romans 6:23😊❤😊❤
Hey Cl3ver, since you etched the bolt graphic out and tried it out on the clay, you just inadvertently made the makings of a mold then you can use to make your coins out of epoxy, add silver pigment to get the metal look, or maybe even gold and copper to have a variety of currency. Red for your "bounty/Debtor coin" . Just a suggestion
Epoxy or resin would be awesome for a cyberpunk larp!!!
I had thought about this too, but I want the clinky sound of metal coins haha
@@Rambler6235 I've used a laser cutter to make acrylic coins and then glued two pieces together with UV resin to make a chunky, nice to hold scifi-looking currency that can have etched textures and remains see-through.
Jesus is the only way. We have all sinned and deserve Hell. Sins that may seem small in our eyes are big in God's and are worthy of Hell, such as lying lusting and stealing. But if we repent and trust only in Jesus, he is faithful and will save us from Hell and give us eternal life in Heaven. Trust in Jesus!
John 3:16
Romans 6:23😊❤😊❤
I like that idea. 🤓 🪙
I made use of thin leather. It's amazing how you can take a couple rounds of 1-3 oz. leather, stamp them, and then glue them back to back. Depending upon the glue used, its surprising how stiff these "coins" can get. After that, it was all down to some metallic acrylic paint, inking, dry-brushing and sealing.
I think leather tokens were used as currency between settlers and natives in America
Thanks for the hot tip! Painted leather coins, awesome!
I had a thought about glass coins at one point. Culturally you could say they are fragile and that makes people spend it more carefully, practically you could make it pretty easily by casting resin.
One thing you might try for striking coins is the setup for struck coins at renfests. The strike base is centered under a weight that has a pulley system to lift it and a guide to keep it on track. Then there is a quick release from the pulley so the weight falls down directly onto the dies. The people at my local renfest use a 150 lbs weight dropped from 8ft.
i was going to make this exact comment
That's a lot of impact.
Exactly. The renfest I went to had a guy with interchangeable dies, making custom coins on what looked like a repurposed guillotine. Super cool and worked really fast.
also, you need a really substantial 'bolster' or base to hold the bottom die and help keep the energy going into the coin blank! A log round will help with that, then put your base die into the log end! (Its how we do it at demonstrations)
I've seen this thing in action, it's amazing! I even got a pendant that was made with one of those (no idea if I still have it anywhere, my room is a mess).
Just touching on that "washers in bulk" thing. Get a couple hundred, find a piece of all thread or a bolt that fits the inner hole, then bolt all of them together and grind flats on the edges. Its consistent and allows for indexing when you engrave or stamp them
This. This is GENIUS. WELL PLAYED
@@SkillTree ive always believed that if you want something done the most efficient aay, assign the laziest person to that task. Its me. Im the laziest person
Great idea!
Jesus is the only way. We have all sinned and deserve Hell. Sins that may seem small in our eyes are big in God's and are worthy of Hell, such as lying lusting and stealing. But if we repent and trust only in Jesus, he is faithful and will save us from Hell and give us eternal life in Heaven. Trust in Jesus!
John 3:16
Romans 6:23😊❤❤
I know this is an old comment, but can you explain it further? Is the idea to gather all the coins and set them up into a banana shape then grind edges onto that? Or is it to grind every coin?
Warning, if you use washers and are using lasers or torch heat on them, make sure they aren't galvanized!!! I really wouldn't want someone to end up getting Metal Fume Fever in the joy of coin minting...
Otherwise I love the bolt setup a lot! Honestly if you get some metal flashing, bend it so the bolts barely fit, and cut a slot in so your can slip a blank in. You could even strike the coin multiple times and get a deeper impression.
You could also use a similar set up, heat that blank super hot, and use a clamp to get crazy pressure on there instead of relying on impact.
Also some cheap plated washers imported from countries with lower safety standards have cadmium as well as zinc in the plating, and cadmium is definitely toxic, somewhere between lead and mercury for nasty.
If you want to mint a large amount of coins, hammering is by far the fastest way to do it. Also, there are round blank sheets available for really cheap money, so you don’t have to shape every single one by hand. Copper or brass ones look really good.
Seeing how the US mint makes theirs, I think you would need a machine to punch out blanks, wash and heat them, then stamp them with a hydraulic press; seems doable if you have the money to assemble such a machine, at least for a small volume such as a few dozen to a hundred every hour or so.
My first LARP used zinc washers for coins, with the denomination stamped on the face. There even wound up being lore about why there were no 3, 7, or 8 coins. In practice it was because 3 and 8 could look the same in dim light, and 7 could look like 1, but the GMs had a whole in-game story about why the numbers never appeared on currency.
I don't think these values ever appeared on coins IRL too. They are just bulk and redundant.
@@voidseeker4394 Yeah, much more common just to see 1, 5, 10, quarter, half, and etc. The old English coin system ran off a base 360 value so iirc it used 6, 12, and so on instead of 5 & 10, but still used the whole, half, and quarter coins.
Even though you see no difference in the crispness of the laser engraving, you may wanna blacken those reflective surfaces in order to avoid the laser to bounce off and actually hit and damage itself! 😅
Omgoodness. This video came at THE PERFECT TIME. I am a theatre teacher and I have to create coins for our “Bizarre before the show “ the kids can’t take real money (apparently that’s an issue). So we were going to make coins. THaNK you and I’m Soo inspired now and confident that we can do it!!!!
how did the bazaar go?
The washers is such a great way to do it, in part because there are cultures that had coins on a string so you can just *yoink!!!* and insert it into your world super easily!
We had one larp event that was originally using tokens for a currency, but this dude playing a goblin comes in and starts trying to attempt using potatoes as a currency. A lot of us shopkeeps went, sure, why not, it's funny, and it spiraled out of control wonderfully XD And that is how I adopted the goblins and that fine young gentleman become my Potat Son XD
The best kinds of memories come from the unpredictable and it is so much fun!
was that goblins name FSH? that sounds exactly like something my fellow goblin friend would do lol
@@kajitheninja Nah, his name is Sir Zike McNasty, The Wanker Banker XD XD XD Although I would probably be fast friends with FSH lmao
This is so cool!
Something about physical coins is so much more immersive. Nothing like slapping 3 silver coins down on a table to make an offer, or maybe casually flipping one to someone as a bribe.
It's just so much cooler to do it practically!
The thing we used to use as currency in our early day larping as young kids at home. Was the fossilized plant stem we got from the creek beds around our home. The interesting part is the fact that the rings on them was the factor that determined the value. It was fun creating the value system. We had a value for thickness thin was 1's then count the rings. The ones thar was bigger than those was 5's. Ones about as thick as our fingers was 10's.
This got me thinking of buying brass stamping blanks and using that instead of aluminum blanks. The brass stamping blanks are like the size of a nickel
A little tip. To get a nice antique look on your coins you could give them a quick bath in Tourmaline/Patination Fluid. It will instantly age metal. I love your videos btw. :)
A friend made coins to use as site tokens for an SCA event. He used the striking method. I asked if he was going to buy copper at Home Depot but he said it would be cheaper to use pennies.
Hey! About the wax seal stamp, you can totally make it yourself ! They are usually made out of brass, which can be etched with some ferric chloride. I made a few this way.
I spray painted it in black, used my laser engraver to remove what is going to be etched, then dipped it upside down in the acid for 1 or 2 hours. Worked very well :D
Soapstone is surprisingly easy to carve and use for making molds. I made pewter Badger paw tokens when I was in the SCA.
When making things like this, remember that you loose details when you make the coins. so go a little bit deeper for the details to get them to appear how you want them.
As well, maybe try to get a bottle jack and build a pressing form for the coins if you plan on making a lot of them?
Yea I was thinking a cheap hydraulic press would suffice. Probably wouldn't need to heat the metal.
@@gemmarob26 I thought that an arbor press would've been ideal: a bottle jack/manual hydraulic press takes too long to pump into place, but one pull on an arbor press would do it.
I've a tiny board game that came in a mint tin, and the guy making it pressed the logo into each tin like this: th-cam.com/video/1m4JPUwnOVY/w-d-xo.html
This isn't even an expensive piece of machinery, I believe 'Harbour Freight' in the US has then for under a hundred dollars.
@@edinburghtubes the immense pipe extention. I love it
@@edinburghtubes If you use the Harbor Freight press pull the arbor, take it to a machine shop and have them drill a hole in the center of the pressing pad, sized to take your die bolt, so it always comes down in the same place. Also put a registration mark (saw or file line) on the bolt so your image is right side up. (Says the guy who has put any number of letters wrong side up in leatherwork!)😮😮
@@jackiemowery5243Have pictures to demonstrate?
As someone who has several of those wax seal stamps, I feel like I could combine a few of these methods to get my perfect coin!!! Thanks for the inspiration!!
I was thinking about 3D printing a mold, get ceramic clay, cook the coins, paint with conductive paint, electroplate with metal, then antique the metal with your favorite antiquing product.
Might want to make a half a dozen slightly different molds. The older techniques were not known for precision.
As someone that is building the resources to batch coins out [resin printer, 3-1 laser/cnc/printer, and wood metal workshop] I like this video most because it shows how much I overdo the simple.
Excellent video!
Remember, Master of the Coin: "Don't gain the world and lose your soul; wisdom is better than silver and gold" (Bob Marley)
Think of a coin with an owl on one side and a big W on the other side ...
Making your larp coins looked like a whole lot of fun. My next door neighbor went to the wasteland weekend in the desert in Cali before covid, and their form of currency was BOTTLE-CAPS!
On the hammer struck coin, you might get better results if you balance the amount of raised space on one side with the amount of recessed space on the other. There was a guy that made medallions at the ren faire. One thing I noticed was that some dies were raised while some were recessed. There’s only so much material to move around. Great video!
This advice is pure gold. Thank you.
You could even start designing in a paint program at low resolution and count up the pixels to be sure your designs are balanced.
While you're playing with sculpey, you can also try metal clay! It can be fired with butane torches or a gas stovetop and you can get it for pretty cheap (especially copper)!
So, the striking method is the most period actuate. In fact, coins are still struck in a press. I've done a lot of metal work and I think the reason your coin backs kept coming out poorly is that the surface is instantly being cooled when you drop in in the die and is cooler than the face side when you strike it. However, consider that real coins were always made out of soft metals, like copper, silver or gold which all take a strike impression pretty well.
25 or so years ago my grandpa made a ton of wooden coins for all the grandkids by cutting a wooden dowl (don't know if that's the correct spelling) up and burning a quick easy design with a wax seal he heated up to basically brand onto the front face. I remember using them in our flea market/ shopping imaginings for years!
There was a historic culture that used huge rock pillars as currency, even when one was lost at sea, it still held value as they would trade it as any other... really want to bring this idea to a larp and pay people with a sunken item :D
Wasn't it like huge rock coins? That basically weighted like several tons and just sat somewhere. And when you bought something the thing just sat in the same place, just with someone else owning it? :D
For the washer ones they would work great on a leather money string run through the middle.
With the washer coin you could add a "gem stone" to the center for a more fantasy feel
If you have a forge and don't want to deal with the exhaustion of banging the metal all day: the hammering dice also work pushing into small glass droplets. So just take coloured glass droplets (or a mix of clear and coloured glass rods twisted together for that swirly look) and instead of hammering, you press the dice together with the glass in the middle.
If that bismuth alloy your using is bendalloy (aka cerrobend, Lipowitz's alloy, or Wood's metal), you should use a clear coat to seal it. About a quarter of the alloy is lead, so covering it in some kind of paint is a necessary safety measure.
The lead is no big deal. Its the Cadmium that you have to worry about.
You can use a small hydraulic press to push the die set rather than hammering it. You can crank through a lot of them without the wear and tear of the hammering
At the Colorado Renaissance Festival they have/had (last there pre-vid). They have a vendor that sells necklaces that you get to choose the designs that you want stamped in. Their set up was to have a place at the bottom of a tower for you to put your stamps in.
Then the tower had guides and a weight. With a crank pulley they would bring the weight up about four or five feet. Then they just had to pull the locking pin out and it would drop onto the stamps.
With the stamps being locked in place, with a little tab on one side to line everything up, they would hit it two or three times and it would make a clean coin every time.
If you were planning on making several coins this would be something to build.
As a plus you could possibly bring it to the event and make mementos for the people there.
A skill I'd love to see you cover (and level up...let's call it "alchemy") and that will help add variety and "denomination" to these coins: electroplating. I've heard it can be done with a white vinegar and salt solution that can them be "charged" into an electrolyte solution using the desired plating metal by taking two pieces of said metal, attaching one to the positive of like a lantern battery (don't need high voltage) and the other to the negative, and suspending these two pieces of metal at opposite ends of the container of salt-vinegar solution for a while, then replace the metal on the negative side with whatever piece you want to plate (just note that where the wire is touching the piece may not get plated). I've heard that so long as it's kept in a sealed container this electrolyte solution can be reused almost endlessly (just may need to be "recharged" from time to time). And there are some caveats, like if you want to plate the steel coin with brass you have to plate it with zinc first because brass won't bond to steel; and we are talking about creating an acidic metal solution so it can't just be dumped down the drain when you're done with it. But all in all the ability to do metal plating at home sounds really cool and I'd love to learn any more information you discovered in your own research on the process. With your Cricut you could probably even dual-plate (e.g. plate the coin with brass or copper, cover up the "low points" and then plate it again with nickel).
Seriously you are one of the few channels where I see a new video is posted and if I don’t watch it immediately I know I’ll watch it in a few days. You have added so many projects to my “to-do” list and your enthusiasm is so encouraging!
Hey Cl3ver... the coin minters at my festival use like a 25 pound weight that they lift to about 10 feet, and it slams down on the material.
With the bolts and the aluminum, you did an incredible job for what you had.
Use what the US mint uses: EXPLOSIVES!
@@jackiemowery5243 Of course we're the ones using gunpowder...
0:37 "anything worth doing is worth over doing, damnit"
A man after my own heart
What was the beverage of the week this week? Also you can use a camping stove to melt the metal you are using so you can do it outside if fumes are a concern. A inexpensive pot for a second hand store or charity shop works great if you are worried about your cookware.
ok another thing to add is you can refine the metal die stamps with a Dremel tool or even punch/carve in the background void of the background with a chisel or nail. Heating the stamps will help soften the metal, and once done refining reheat the die then cool in oil to temper it. This will give a nice texture if you prefer that old style. Good vid.
Washer coin can be stored on a leather string 😅 love the video ❤
"Anything worth doing is worth over-doing" is a fantastic motto for life
A material to consider for stamping coins could be copper pipe caps. You can usually get the common 1/2 and 3/4 inch sizes for about $0.50-$0.75/ea. Being copper and therefore relatively soft, they'll take readily to stamping, and the lip of the cap can help index one face of the dies.
You could also do an Acid Dip. Order the stamps you mentioned, use said stamps on the washers, and drop the washers into a mercuric acid and Hydrochloride mix, dip the stamped coins into the acid bath, and in a few minutes, pull them out. You could even pick up a plastic container that comes with a strainer insert at the 99 cent store. You could to a lot at a time. The only setback is properly disposing of the acid.
My spouse and I have been watching your videos while on our lunch breaks, usually on our TV with a box that does not allow us to login. I've started rewatching your videos while on my account and am enjoying them all over again as well as picking up some tips to things that I already knew. Continue the great work.
I've been wanting to make the currency of the world I've been developing thanks for dropping this video it also helps me fuel my addiction of collecting fantasy stuff (Grimoires, Coins, and Potion Bottles)
I've been wanting to try making coins for a while, some great techniques in this video i want to try. Thanks kit 🤘
I did NOT expect the minting to work but I was very impressed with the results. That would definitely be my go to without access to a laser engraver.
My first thought for how I would approach this would be to print a positive using an SLA printer and then sand cast coins out of aluminum, brass, or copper. But your way is much more repeatable.
Cl3ver, you could also use the lead weights used on car tires. Melt it down and pour it into the mold you made with the clay. To melt the lead you can use an old pot or pan, for the heating part you can use a small torch like the one you used to heat up the strip metal coin. On the plus side of this method you will end up having coins that will have a good weight to them, and they wont melt on your car dashboard. Keep leveling up those skills.
For the smashy version, maybe securing the bottom bolt/plate down would help? When I've been to the Ren Fair, that's how they do it. Er, also not with a hammer but a large machine that drops a big ol weight, but same idea? idk
Thank you.
Thank YOU!
Not sure how much research went into making this plan, but that was amazing. Your dremel technique is similar to how I made my touch mark for things I have forged. And you’re not a sad little weak man… it takes years to be able to swing a hammer hard AND accurately.
As always, awesome video! I do leatherwork mainly but as you know any creative hobby needs other skills too.
Simple wax can be used as a good blanks for coins if you have the time and skill to carve into them( and dont have the money for the wax seals), Also great for size control if you made it to big or small just re-melt it and pour again. You could even use them in metal casting im sure. No clue if the wax will hard the shape or detail of the coin your trying to make though.
This would be really cool for Reckoning!
We are PLANNING to bring some different denominations for Reckoning 😁
@@SkillTree Awesome! I can't go this year but I can't wait for next year. Thank you for all the badassery you guys do with the channel
Resin might also be a good option
So - another option is to 3d print a mold using heat-resistant resin and use that to cast in pewter/bismuth. Should get plenty of detail.
You can even manage a reusable mold with a little work, though it may not hold up long.
In regards to making a big number, of the low melt ones. Using either wood or a 3D printer to quickly make two plates with the repeating pattern of the coin, the stem, and the registration marks; cover with moulding materiel of your choosing.
So it's been 5 months since I commented last, and the candle soot thing inspired this little tidbit of lore.
The Black Toll is a technique used by True Shadows of Avalon to designate and positively identify key targets for assassination or spying without needing a briefing from The House of Shadows. It is primarily used to message other True Shadows in the field for assistance non-verbally. The system works via a blackened steel coin with red highlights. On one side is a mausoleum, and on the other is the crest of the Royal family. The agent plants the coin either on someone's person, or in a location of interest. The side of the coin that is more red indicates which operation should be carried out. The mausoleum means an assassination, and the crest means reconnaissance and spycraft. Once the Black Toll is payed and the job finished, the coin is re-blackened with candle soot until the next job.
I hope y'all enjoy it!
About the washers:
I read _Five Kingdoms_ by Brandon Mull, and in that world, their currency were coins by the name of "ringers."
They were disks of copper, iron, silver, and gold that acted fairly simply. But what was interesting was how they would carry them. See, by the nature of their shape, it was common to string them up like beads on a cord, and tie them onto your legs and around your chest, to hide from thieves and whatnot.
Really cool.
Ummm, that is how Chinese coins worked for millenia from 350BCE - the name for the basic coins is 'cash' and they carried them in standard sized strings of 100 for larger transactions. They also invented paper money in the late 1200's.
Tons of historic coins, especially from Asia, have holes in them. Most historic Chinese coins have a hole, for example. This makes it easy to tie them together. No more loose coins falling through the hole in your pocket. This is why coins with holes are superior.
Another amazing vid and thank you all for the superior content. I think this will be the last time I have to say I cant wait for you all to reach 100K subs. We are less than 300 away and it will be any day now. So happy for all of you and cant wait to see the plaque on the wall. thanks again Cl3ver for making all of this so fun to watch. BEST!
I made custom ball markers for golf with the punch outs from electrical junction boxes. Quick sanding, then ball peen hammer finish then stamped with metal stamp kit. Finish with sharpie to color in the lettering.
I had a friend who made his coins from foam. He just used leather stamping tools to make the design he drew on them stand out. Then he painted them. Didn't take long at all. And it was awesome as hell
Something you can try with the struck coin is reverse the dies. The swords being hit by the hammer might make a better indent with your set up. Love the ideas, Cl3ver!...of Clev3r?
I've wanted to do something like this for years. I really like the washers as the base to start from. I like coins with holes in the center.
Thanks for this. Most if not all of the other videos I've watched about mold making don't say what products to use to make them or when to buy the supplies. Dude, yer awesome.
Always makes my day when I see a new episode. Keep up the Shenanigans!
For that last, cast coin, it is extremely satisfying to realize youve remade a toy from my childhood: a metal foundry. I wish i still had it, that was a cool toy :)
So you can totally make your own coin merch now.
I was just trying to figure out how to make some coins the other day with shit from around the house. I haven’t watched yet but hoping I can get some ideas I can put to use! Best channel ever :)
I normally hate that youtube recommends random videos but this was right down my alley. Great video! Definitely subscribing!
Super AWESOME!!!❤ And how do the instructions change for the last demo when you're making molds for a pure gold or silver pour? What needs to be different in terms of the molding material itself? Or what materials to pour into, etc? Do you have to use sandcasting material instead? I SO want to know this!
Even though I don't really need to make coins for my campaign, I loved just watching this video. You have a great personality.
Why’d I think of that Turboflex meme seeing the way he hit the stamps for the different uses?
Your coin blanks: *SLAM*
Turboflex clay coin blank: *light tap*
An idea: for your tradable currency, is the etched stuff, but your “bounty coins” do the bismuth, at a much lower amount. That way, you don’t need too many of the cast coins. That is, if the etched coins are easier to do
Awesome Cl3ver....I have been waiting for more people to do coin making. I would love to have my own currency for DnD campaigns and props for role play....and the tokens and things just dont work for me.
Been waiting for this content my whole life!
Oh no! What will you look forward to NOW?
The holes actually perfect tbh. Makes it able to be tied together for clear and concise counting of coins. A single string could be equal to 100 bucks or something
For the type of detail found on old coins I recommend looking up the Edward III Florin, it was minted in the 1340s. The die to the obverse/head was likely etched into the head of a hammer the size of a war hammer and someone had to swing away hundereds of times a day and each coin would have been a little different as the strikes wouldn't all have been true.
Ok on the note of coin making. And die hitting for an indentation:
Anneal your metal.
I was a goldsmith up until few months ago so here s a few tip if anyone is interested.
Copper, and some types of brass will take a good impression. Iron too.
For iron just heat it up really hot and let it cool in the air and it will get softer. Steel too.
Copper has to be quenched in water while glowing hot but it softens nicely.
For those interested in bulk making of coins you can use brass, copper or in some cases steel or iron discs, and use acid etching.
Basically you can draw your design on a coin in permanent marker or spray it on with a stencil.
Make a solution of acid - usually you can get sulphuric acid really diluted and just leave them over few hours or overnight. Next say your design is etched in. Or vinegar acid. Most of these you can grab at a better household cleaning departments.
Result will be that the surface COVERED in the paint will be LEFT RAISED or POSITIVE in the etch.
I would go this route for bulk, speed and cost.
Tip for making your carbide tips last longer: optimal speed (usually stated on the tip or by the supplier) and use cutting oils or beeswax in a pinch. If you heat them during cutting they die quickly in some cases.
For sharper lines in your carbide cutter you can also use a nifty tool shape called reverse cone
==
I think another idea for the stamp would work well with either a hydrolic press or maybe an arbor press. Idk if the Arbor would give you enough pressure would be good for the clay also
Had this on the watch later list a long time now. Not disappointed.
As a hobby blacksmith a CNC machinist and a mechanical designer, these are all pretty decent. A sand cast would be fun too.
heck yeah, finaly been waiting for this!
I think the first hammer Strike method might be partially that you didn’t heat both sides evenly and enough. Also, maybe weld a larger target on the back of the bolt you are striking. That should make imparting more Force easier.
Alternative to hammer: Bottle jack. Want a couple tons of pressure? Go pick one up at wal-mart or something. Make a jig that the dies sit on top of the bottle jack (or below it), then push against a frame of some sort.
Another alternative: If you're using bolts, make use of those threads. Get a matching nut and a wrench for it. You're going to want to have the nut stay still so that the bolt is moving. This is where the pressure is coming from. Turn the nut, force the bolt down, pressing the dies together. Don't get cheap bolts, because you might just strip the threads instead of pressing the dies together if the coin blank is too hard.
One metal I would recommend using for the coins would be soldering wire; it has a low melting temperature that a campfire could melt, so simply using a directed torch or oven might work. You could make a sheet for your coins in a baking sheet like tray and just have the solder melt into the spaces. Biggest concern would be lead based solder and flux added ones, as the fumes are harmful, especially in such a large amount.
if you are in California, he might be convinced to do a workshop for folks if there is interest, he lives up in the Mt. Shasta area I do believe. When I did it the cost of the materials was very reasonable, I ended up with a made by me custom die set, some hardened punches to be able to make more dies sets, the pertinent information (he does have a little booklet from the "Moneyers Guilde" you can send him a message and ask about it, in it he talks about using various metals like the solder. You can also buy coin blanks form him if needed! James is a great guy, and a mostly one man shop, so he can get a little behind in orders, but he is very good at letting you know if things will be delayed. ( I think his little booklet is a couple of bucks, just ask him!!) k
Also, I think James and his old partner were the first ones to do the "STRIKING" of coins and medallions at the ren-faires
I made a currancy for witch hunters in my game that was essentially a bone knife. It could only be used effectively on villinous magic users who were wanted by the law, as it nullified low level spells and status effect spells cast against the user. When one of my players asked " Who issues these types of blades?", I replied " The guild of pointed bones".
This is literally the best channel on youtube
I always enjoy the Shenanigans of Clever and Maddie, especially the ones on the Livestreams
Now we are talking business 😂
Forgery! The business of kings... crooked crooked kings
On the direct etching, if you reverse the polarity, I.E negative to the coin blank and positive to the other metal, it will consume the other metal and transfer it to the coin blank though this is a longer process and you have to use the bath method instead of the cotton pad method you can potentially do thousands of coins at a time. It all depends on how big of a "tub" you have to do this in.
Also, a better way to do the hammer and anvil method is to use a guillotine coin press. You have one side of the coin negative on the anvil part, and the other is attached to the guillotine hammer head part. You crank the handle you raise the hammer, place the coin blank on the anvil part, pull the release handle, and let gravity do its job. Takes 30 seconds or less per coin.
One thing I've seen used several times are plastic jewels, gems, or even fancy plastic stones. You can get a decent bag of them from a craft store for super cheap. And it always plays well to upturn a velvet pouch onto the table..
When etching metal the walls of the pits get etched away too. That is the reason for the paint flaking off. You need to cover the walls with something. You do not need to paint them manually. When making printing clichees regularly the plate is picked from the etching, rinsed with water, dried and then some oily ink or anything that will work as an enamel is rolled onto the plate with a rubber roller. Some of the paint is pressed into the pits covering the walls but not the bottom. I seem to recall something about "burning in" the protective layer (I've never worked as a repro-worker). If you repeat that for every few minutes you get a stepped down wall on each pit.
The algorithm gods smiled on me today, and included this video on my feed. Make your own coins? Yes please. Very cool methods, and read through the comments and NO ONE wants to talk about the purple potion you casually poured out and drank to great effect? I must have! What is it, where do I give coins someone else made to acquire my own, or how can I make my own? These are the real questions right here!! (Oh and appreciated the actual content, had not considered using clay at all) New Subscriber added.
I always love the idea of coins with holes in the center.
It's historically accurate, and none of the coins here in the US have them. It's part of the world building.