Don't do that on M103 engines. This is predicted for M102 engines starting from september '89. And don't do this on the round X11 diagnostic socket. you will either turn the fuel pump on or nothing is going to happen. If you want to check this, do it on your diagnostic port on the right side of your car next to the battery.
I don't understand why we shouldn't do this to X11 diagnostic socket? The video is shown the testing method of X11 diagnostic socket installed on m102, right?
I was searching alot for someone discussing the KE system like you do. You dont know how much i am happy and satisfied since watching your videos. Thanks man keep it up.
My pleasure. Many things - some models turn their fuel pumps on(1&3), with a special multimeter you can see your RPM, with the oscilloscope you can watch your timing in milliseconds, one of them is for the models that don't have EZL...😅😀 Greetings for Serbia 🇷🇸
My pleasure. Just remember, if you have an X11/4 diagnostic port with 8 pins(or more)by the battery do it there, the procedure is the same. Happy Mercedesing 😃
Very interesting... Thank you. I was very happy and excited to think that I could do this on my own car (w201 2.3 1989). So I found a wire, went to the car, saw the OBD jack it smelled good to me, and... No number 3 contact... All others are there, but nothing in the 3, a blank !
Number 3 must be next to number 2. How can I explain it? If you have number 4 written on and number 2, between those two is number 3. From underneath clockwise you have holes. The first one is 1 and then clockwise is 2, 3, 4.... Imagine letter C. First from the bottom is 1 and as you go clockwise it makes 2,3,4,5...
@@mercedeske thank you for your answer. I surely misspoke. I saw each socket, but the number three is empty, there is a blank inside. All other socket have a connection in metal, but in the socket number 3 I only see plastic ... Just like if I had not the option. Maybe my car is to old ? Or I'm very unlucky...
Well, don't even try to do this on a M103 engine. Plugging such a way the diag porthole will affect your engine ! I've tried it and the consequence I had to face with was: engine refused to start again!!! After some researches, I've identified the issue. The tension relay was blown due to the connection of a wire between the porthole !!! Before It was in perfect condition. So don't try this on the M103 engine !!! major risk for your electronic components !
Sorry to hear that. This is predicted for M102 engines. My car is manufactured in june 1989. that's why I made it, I suppose. This is done on the X11/4, the port near the battery. I am sorry that I didn't mention this earlier. Désolé...
@@mercedeske Hello hello. No issue for me. I replaced the pump relay and the high tension relay for cheap. And mine were original parts, built in January 1987. So no issue. I just want to aware your followers that on the M103 engine, this method is not good ! Have great day and many thanks again for you tutorials ! Cheers from France !
@@jacqueshenriot8949 Hello. I'm glad for you. There is in the comments that this is not a method for m103 engines. You have a diagnostic port by the battery where you can check the codes with the obd1 scanner. Greetings
@@darijatomic5489 Nije, naravno. Vraćana mu je kilometraža, ima originalnih preko 300h.300 i nešto. Ali imajući u vidu da sam ga generalno podmladio ide kao blesav! Ako jednom rešim ima da konkurišem na auto analizi da se trkam sa njim na 400m, čisto da ga probam, jer sam mu obećao da će da mi "izvrišti" jednom!
Hi Where can i hear the sound ? That i connect 1 and 3 then swith on ignition for five second then remove the wire … but no sound (peep or any thing ) to hear !!!! My engine is 102
@@mercedeske do you mean the rectangular switch near the battery which have 8 holes . Can i connect 1 and 3 in that rectangular switch??? Then continue the same as the circular switch?
I have a 1988 w126 420sel with pre-OBD system. There is only a round, 9 pin connector and no other connector or data port/output in engine bay. Will this method work, or is there a similar jumper method for this model? It is showing check engine light on, but I don't know how to retrieve the codes. Thank you for any help!
@@mercedeske there is very little info about this set up. Most all references mention the impulse display button, or at least being able to use a probe or display. The other references mention only lambda readout, and I think there's a duty cycle output supposedly, but no reference to code acquisition. So, I should go ahead and jump pin 1 &3, and see what happens? Thank you so much for your guidance!
Hey bro thanks. I found it could you do a video on vacuum line not just point them out like you did but to say what there for and how to hook them back up. I bought the car from a widow and a lot of the vacuum line are disconnected. my central locking my ac so as much help I can get I will be thankful
To tell you the truth that's because I mixed up ports X11(round one at the left fender) with the X11/4(rectangular one by the battery). This procedure has to be done at the X11/4. How I made it on the X11, I have no clue!!! The procedure is the same as I described it on the video!
@@damiropadobarglumskiperiod505 Iskreno rečeno, bolji ti je običan, nisam zadovoljan ovim, što se tiče radnog ciklusa, to ti isto nije potrebno, to je samo napon u vremenu(milisekunde. Sve u svemu, svaki od 2500din. će da ti završi posao, a I oni jeftiniji čak. Pozdrav.
@@mercedeske da .osciloskop sam razmisljao da kupim radi peugeota koji se povremeno gasi pa je sumnja na cam i crank shaft sensor pa da ne lutam a sada vidim da ima multimeter sa opcijom rpm.a za k jet...se zanimam radi oca koji je nedavno preminuo i ostao mi je 190e koji je lezao 13 g u garazi.trenutno mu ler gas stimam preko sajle jer idle mikroprekidac donnjega sajla niti dolazi.pa cu uskoro da pogledam motoric ler gasa i ostale stvari.nisam znao z diferencijalbi pritisak i da se taj sistem moze fino podesiti u cilju oprimalne potrosnje.svaki video zlata vrijedi.veoma sam vam zahvalan
Thank you and as I said - this way you will know everything and not to go through the whole system like me. You know, Wiktor, as I erased the from the ECU mu car drives now a lot, lot better!
Hi. I have a W126 260 se from 1987. When it's cold outside it doesn't start, if I pour hot water it starts. When heated, the speed is 1300 rpm. Otherwise it works well, does not emit smoke
Great video!!! You give all necessary information!! My m103 92, 300e 2.6l has socket x11 so, does my 85 380 sl...would you consider a technique that will work for my 2 models? You, said this is only for m102. Thank you, for sharing your knowledge!! You make it so simple to understand!! Cheers!!!
Thank you, too. If you have a a diagnostic by the battery then you can do this. There are many different types( with 8,16 and more pins) but the principle is the same. Watch the video link in cards and you will see how you can do this.
@@mercedeske sorry, I'm a bit slow...what is cards video link? How do i find it? Thank you! Please keep videos coming!! Will be contributing just as soon as I get "snow white", running like yours!! Love your sense of humor, and that you actually show your work on real time-car!
@@oceanfront664 I showed in the video a link to a video how to diagnose the ecu if you get more then one impuls from the ecu and how to hook the obd1 scanner on your socket.
Hello, thank you for this very interesting video but I also have slot number 3 which is not wired. Do you have another solution to diagnose? I have a Mercedes W124 230E 2.3 136 year 1985 Thank you
I have a 230e m102 engine 1985 too.. w124 body. I also have no socket for the third terminal in the obd 1 diagnostic. I tried doing what was discussed in the video but the third in the diagnostic is just an empty slot like what you said.
From Portugal. Thanks, very helpful for my 260E (1990). But I still haven’t managed to keep the idle on cold and hot start, having to keep accelerating at 1,500rpm for 1 minute and after that.
@@jafavie Hehehehehe porque eu sou doctor de KE-Jetronic(estou brincando um pouco). De nada, eu responderei sempre quando gente tem problemas. Supus que tens mais de 100 mil km no relógio junto com as simtomas e...
@@mercedeske the car has 367,000 km and I am the 3 or 4 owner and I don't know if the potentiometer has already been replaced. So, I'm going to take it out and see how the contacts are doing and from there, eventually replace. In the meantime I have already seen your 2 videos on how to replace and adjust the potentiometer after informing you as it can serve as information for another similar case. Many thanks for your unconditional support for this community of mercedists (worldwide).
It's my pleasure. As far as I can and as I know I will try to help everyone with his car. Many greetings for Portugal 🇵🇹 muitos cumprimentos da Sérvia e dirijam seus Mercedes com sorte, todos vocês...
Right, but if you have the diagnostic socket by the battery do it there, the same pins, 1 and 3. Of you don't have it, try it then on the X11, if you have an m103 engine, don't do it.
Thanks a lot for video. I have 102.910 with cat and o2 cencor. To clearify, how should we understand the cycle of beats ? You gave an expamle for 1st 2 2nd 5 3th 9 4th 2 again and said that its equal 3 beats. What is the mathematics for that?
Greetings, the example I gave is to understand how many errors you have - it may be single one, and maybe more of them. I gave the example for 3 errors. It's like this - note how many beats you hear for the first time. Then you take the wire out and stick it again for about 5 seconds to see if you have more errors in the system. Repeat the process until you hear the same number of beats as for the first time. In my example it were the errors number 2, 5 and 9. If you looked in the table you would see that you have an issue with the FULL OPEN THROTTLE(that's under number 2), LAMBDA PROBE(that's under number 5) and BAD OR NO CURRENT FLOWING TO THE EHA(that's under number 9). Maybe you get some other number of beats, maybe a single one(NO ERRORS). Example number 2 - you get four beats for the first time. For the second time you get four beats again. That means you have only one error - BAD VOLTAGE TO THE POTENTIOMETER! I hope now you understand. Best regards
@@mercedeske thanks a lot for the feedback. its very important information. also, during this process, should the igniton need to be on, while i am sticking in and out the wire until i hear same beat again?
Salvation . I have a Mercedes class E 420 from July 1997 I have a problem and I can't solve it I have the automatic transmission stuck in second gear. I changed the transmission, the electrical plate, complete oil change, and the problem still persists. I would like to know if you have any idea of the problem? Please . Tony.
Hi Ivica, I would appreciate your help and support with the following issue I have with my W124 300 CE 1991: mid range drive 40 to 60 mph engine looses a little bit of power and takes a few seconds to get to 80mph. After reaching the 80, engine becomes loud and gets some of the power back. When stopped at traffic light, idling rom jumps every seconds from 500 to 750 and sometimes engine dies. O2 sensor, spark plugs, wires all new. Just ordered new potentiometer, idle valve control and fuel pressure regulator. And forgot to mention when turning steering wheel all the way left/& right engine might die as well. Where should I start replacing parts?! Thank you Adrian
This is the clear sign that you have a faulty idle control valve(for the beginning 😁) and if I were you I would check the injectors as well(you have the video on my channel). If you need anything else just contact me. Best regards, Ivica FyM
One more question Ivica, 80 mph and up the engine becomes loud and I was told is die to air flow meter? Where should I start with figuring out what’s wrong?! Could we get an o call when you are available?! Would appreciate your time.
@@adrianioanlungu When ever you want. Just send me your phone number in my mail(schilleryu@yahoo.com). I have everything - viber, whatsapp, signal, telegram
Hi, very interesting video thanks for sharing your so pratical knowledge ! A question please. I have a W126 mercedes with M103 engine. My car is form 1987 and it has the same ODB1 socket port than your W124 mercedes. This is a 9 holes port. Is your method with the wire applicable for my M103 engine with this same socket plug ? Thanks for your answer. Cheers !
This is for m102 the engines from september '89 but you can try. Some people told me that their fuel pump start working constantly using the ports 1 and 3(interesting). But if you succeed the be sure that the table with the number of impulses is right so you know what you are dealing with. To tell you the truth, this is for the diagnostic socket at the battery on the firewall. There is a diagnostics there but I don't know how I managed to make it work on the x11(where you read duty cycle). Best regards
Can you write a list? I seem to get no clicks following this: 1. Jump socket 1 and 3 2. turn on ignition wait five seconds 3. take out jumper and listen
Then it's okay. I get no sounds, too. There is one sound that comes out of the diagnosis. I heard that sound afterwards as I was editing the video. 😀 It's something like when you switch your cell phone off. That's the sound I repeated for 5 times.
Hi. I'm trying to adjust my air/fuel mix but unfortunately my car doesn't have pin 3, all other are present but that one is missing. Is there any way I can measure the duty cycle without that pin to accurately adjust it?
my name is ali i am from pakistan and i have a mercedes 126 380 SEL in garage and all the engine wiring is burnt so i need to make a new wiring for it i need wiring diagram For engine wiring ABS and All components part numbers please Help thank you
Hi I have e190 w201 1.8 1993 , the acceleration is slow , I am not sure if it's vaccume or engine , it has new oil spark plugs , fuel pump , I did obd test I only heard 1 click , the downshift gear switch is working , when I drive up steep hill I accelerate, but nothing happens sometimes but other times is goes fast . I am thinking I might have faulty potentiometer
Hello Good film brother 😉 But I have a question. In my sl 300 92 model I have bought of diagnostic socket. I have 6 cylinder engine. What diagnostic shoud I used it?
Greetings and thank you for the comment. Use OBD1 because OBD2 came later 1996. You should have 16 ports. I posted the link how it's done. There should be a socket close to your battery. Stick it there according to the link.
@@mercedeske hi, where is the link? maybe thats the reason of my stuck on 50% duty cycle problem (o2 sensor problem) I didnt check or erase any fault codes after changing the o2 sensor and many other sensors!
@@mercedeske OK thanks for replying. But the battery is in the boot (300 SL). I guess you mean use the one on the passenger side (left hand drive car). Trouble is, I have ABS and ASR lights on but this system is not available to the scanner, apparently...?
Yes, the passenger side. If the ABS is on then something is wrong either with the OVP(blown fuse) or you don't have power supply on the contact 87E - one of them is for the ECU, the other one for the ABS but I would rather say that you probably have problem with brakes because your ASR is ON. Maybe the sensors(dirt as potential cause) or there is something wrong with your electronic accelerator. That much i can say this way...
@@mercedeske Thank you. The OVP is new and fine and everything works on the car as normal but still the lights. The electronic accelerator seems ok, smooth, even the tempomat works ok, but I will check it if I can.
You're doing a great job. Continue like this, you help many with your knowledge .. Do you have any advice for us who have the 560 engine? What can we look at to use what you have shown us so far that also goes for us with these 560 engines. Best regards from Dag Nilsen. Norway ..
Hi, thanks a lot. What I showed here is for M102 engines but it also applies for other engines if you have an eight pins(or more) diagnostic by the battery at the firewall. For this you will need an OBD1 scanner if you want to read the codes. What I can say is - replace the lambda probes at 50k km, check the potentiometers at 150k km if they still hold the voltage steady. These two are the most common issues on the KE-Jetronic, never, and I repeat NEVER touch/don't let someone touch either the CO-screw or the fuel distributor unless you really have to(a shaky engine which turns out to be either a bad injector or a chamber out of which fuel doesn't flow, an uneven fuel flow or too much fuel leaking out of the fuel distributor). Check your injectors each 150k km to see if they started dripping, squirting... These injectors are mechanical and CAN NOT be cleaned in the ultrasonic bath, they have to be replaced. As for the EHA, if it goes bad you will feel pressure loss(car stumbling) so check if the fuel is not leaking out of its little holes(the EHA becomes all wet - wipe it with a paper towel and if the EHA becomes all wet again, well, it has to be replaced). That's something in brief, best regards from Serbia and "Happy Mercedesing"
Hi... Thanks for the quick response to my post. I have probably mispronounced myself a bit regarding this with the 560 W126 Series. I have a 560SEC 1986. I've probably already done what you think should be done. The car was traded (came from California via Japan) and to Norway. I have replaced it a lot. Changed: All gaskets in fuel distributor. 8 new Bosh nozzles. And all the gaskets around these. Register tighter 4pcs. (these in plastic that chips up and destroys the engine) Cam drove 2 pcs (After changing, the car changed gait - became «softer». All the rubber that is on and around the intake manifold. The large rubber that sits under the fuel distributor. It was patched with glue. Plug wires 8 pcs (Bosh) with the correct Ohm. Had to replace EHA got hold of a used one. Which works fine according to what I think. Has taken a picture from inside the cylinders (EndoScoop) Is not a hint of wear. Can still see the little arrow showing which way the piston should be during assembly from the factory. There is no carbon buildup on the piston top. The compression is 11.4 kg on all 8. On cold engine. Now the engine runs about 625 rpm hot engine in N. In D it goes down to a little over 500 rpm. And it's going steadily. No vibration. I also got hold of the original AMG Cast Iron Headers. They're going on this winter. The car is only used in the summer. BUT.! I have an annoying problem - The heater does not work. I have checked that the small engines that are to draw in air from the cabin are running. They're ok. The strange thing here is I get to start the heating appliance when the car is inside one cold garage in winter - then it starts. I have replaced the mono vault, with original MB. Have checked several places online. And tested out many of the suggestions. Has even replaced the ignition module located behind the ignition key. (the device with 8 contact points, it is also new). I don't think it is the heater console - Of course I can't be sure of that. But! I think there is something with a thermostat regulator somewhere on the engine block.. I have replaced some of them too, .. Something completely different. Maybe you should make it possible for us with Mercedes and post pictures of the cars? Med Hilsen Dag. Norway..@@mercedeske
@@mercedeske Ok. I have a new thermostat, and a new water pump.. I will change both of them, start to night. I'll keep you updated Regards Dag. From Norway..
Hello and thanks for the comment. The car is manufactured on june 1989 and what I am talking about is for KE III M102 engines from september 1989. The car has no diagnostics by the battery. As for the M103 engines, if you have 16 socket diagnostic, 1 is for ground, 3 is for the injection(yellow) and 16 is for power(red). If you have an 8 socket - 1 is for ground, 3 is for the injection(yellow) and the red goes to the battery. For California models number 2 is for OBD.
Thanks for your help, to improve your $$$$ from the chanel you can become Amazon afiliate and make recomendations of spares and tools to fix our old cars. Regards¡¡¡
hello my 190 has an obd1 socket like you 9 small pin for fault codes can we do with a warning light??? I have documentation on I found on the net not terrible it says that a device is needed that says the values in % is it true that this device is absolutely necessary can you give me a link in the message or I could download the empty table error for obd socket 1 of 9 small pin thank you I await the answer with great importance and again congratulations for your superb videos say hello to the beautiful young lady from me thank you
Hi and thanks. The lady greets you as well. :D Concerning the diagnostic on the KE. On the system KE3 1986-1989(september) the codes where displayed in %. Afterwards the X11/4 was used(at the right fender, a rectangular shaped device with 8 and more pins). In this video I didn't know that I had an ECU from the later version and the ECU had that CODE - a bad lambda. All W126versions have these, concerning 190E there is a California version which has even a button integrated. As for the errors, you have the table in my video.
Muy buenos videos , podría decirme en español en el puerto redondo dónde conectar el multimetro en %hz para controlar la válvula electro hidráulica tengo un 300ce-24 muchas gracias
Hola. Puedes consultar el propio eha. Conecte el multímetro al eha y mida la corriente (mA) de esa manera puede ver qué hace la ECU y cómo se comporta. Verifique la polaridad de ambos pines porque siempre cambia. Debe obtener entre -3 y 0 mA en ralentí cuando el automóvil está caliente y no una diferencia significativa a 2000 rpm. Muchos saludos.
Hocu, uradicu i ovaj na srpskom, a i razdelnik cu morati isto. Ne znam da li sam tebi obecao ili nekom drugom. Kako si ti, jel sve u redu sa kolima? Pozdrav od mene
@@mercedeske Bilo bi dobro,mada mozda za tebe naporno da svaki video video uradis i na sbskom i engleskom.Sa kolima je sve ok ,ja sam za sada dobro sto i tebi zelim . Pozdrav
I tried it, but I didn't manage to do it. That was before I erased the error with the lambda. I will try. If I succeed, I will make the video for sure. This is how it's done - you need a duty cycle capable multimeter that can show you percents. The conditions for this is for your lambda and the potentiometer to be good. As the car is at 80 the fuctuation must start - counterclockwise the mixture is leaner, clockwise richer - the lower number in % the richer the muixture, the higher - leaner. There is one more way - on the terminals 2(negative),3(positive) you measure the voltage. The number you get you divide with the voltage on your battery and you multiple it with 100 - that's the percentage you want to get.
@@kaapeli8515 Hehehehe, I've studied the system for a looong time. These videos are spite so to speak to my former mechanic who told me something like:"Are you crazy to mess up with K-Jetronic!?" Let me tell you who you can believe from all the mechanics concerning KE-Jetronic - the one you ask why the letter K in its name, why not some other. If he doesn't know the answer, then he doesn't know the principle of the operation! If he doesn't know why the letter K but he explains you how the system functions, then okay, you can trust the guy. You have D-Jetronic, K-Jetronic and L-Jetronic. These letters are not given randomly!
Καλημέρα σας παρακολουθώ αρκετό καιρό και είναι πολύ ενδιαφέροντα αυτά που αναφέρεται .δεν έχετε όμως αναφερθεί ποτέ για MERCEDES 123 C 230.Θα σας ήμουν ευγνώμων . Ευχαριστώ τον χρόνο σας
Hello and thanks for the subscription to the channel. I'm going to reply in english because of the others. At first, it's a HUGE difference if we are talking about a W123C or a W123CE because the first one is equipped with the M115 engine which is on carburettor and the CE is M102 engine with K-Jetronic injection system. I don't talk about carburettors, I do have literature on those but I have never worked with them and I don't prefer carburettors in general. So if you have a CE with K-Jetronic then I can say about some similarities and differences on the system. My best regards.
@@darijatomic5489 Djevuska, ako me pamcenje dobro sluzi ja sam naucio da plivam sa 4 ili 5 godina. A da pecam, to ne znam, a i mrzi me da gledam u vodu kao PRIZETKO U TESTAMENT!🤣🤣🤣
@@darijatomic5489 I mnogo je to zahtevno - nonstop im treba stapovi, strune, hrana, kutijce, kidaju im se strune, udice, napolju temperatura u minusu, a oni ustaju u 4 ujutru da idu da zauzmu mesto... Nisam ti ja taj!
Gde si, Icko, sta radis, da li ti je dosadno, vidim nema ko da ti postavi pitanje, pa rekoh da te pitam sta koju lepu rec tipa kad ce novi klip itd.😛😛😛
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Don't do that on M103 engines. This is predicted for M102 engines starting from september '89. And don't do this on the round X11 diagnostic socket. you will either turn the fuel pump on or nothing is going to happen. If you want to check this, do it on your diagnostic port on the right side of your car next to the battery.
I don't understand why we shouldn't do this to X11 diagnostic socket? The video is shown the testing method of X11 diagnostic socket installed on m102, right?
Right, for m102 engines. The others have the diagnostic socket by the battery so they have to test for codes there.
@@mercedeske great, so testing the m102 X11 diagnostic socket is okay, but don't do it to m103 X11 diagnostic socket. Thanks
@@mercedeske I have both sockets on my M103 in early R129. Can I use X11 like this or not?
@@libran58 You don't have to. Use X11/4 by the right fender, the rectangular one.
I was searching alot for someone discussing the KE system like you do. You dont know how much i am happy and satisfied since watching your videos. Thanks man keep it up.
Thanks, I will. Best regards. ;-)
From almost 20 years ago i did not know what is this socket is😄
Thank you sssooo much
My pleasure. Many things - some models turn their fuel pumps on(1&3), with a special multimeter you can see your RPM, with the oscilloscope you can watch your timing in milliseconds, one of them is for the models that don't have EZL...😅😀 Greetings for Serbia 🇷🇸
Wonderful! Thank you for your kind explanation of Mercedes-Benz w124 error maintenance.
My pleasure. Just remember, if you have an X11/4 diagnostic port with 8 pins(or more)by the battery do it there, the procedure is the same. Happy Mercedesing 😃
Very interesting... Thank you.
I was very happy and excited to think that I could do this on my own car (w201 2.3 1989).
So I found a wire, went to the car, saw the OBD jack it smelled good to me, and...
No number 3 contact...
All others are there, but nothing in the 3, a blank !
Number 3 must be next to number 2. How can I explain it? If you have number 4 written on and number 2, between those two is number 3. From underneath clockwise you have holes. The first one is 1 and then clockwise is 2, 3, 4.... Imagine letter C. First from the bottom is 1 and as you go clockwise it makes 2,3,4,5...
@@mercedeske thank you for your answer.
I surely misspoke.
I saw each socket, but the number three is empty, there is a blank inside. All other socket have a connection in metal, but in the socket number 3 I only see plastic ... Just like if I had not the option. Maybe my car is to old ? Or I'm very unlucky...
No, definitely not. Mine is '89, too. The same engine
@@TRIUMPHINT hello, I have the same problem as you location number 3 of the ODB socket is not wired. Did you find a solution? Thank you
Mine is also missing the metal connector on number 3
Well, don't even try to do this on a M103 engine. Plugging such a way the diag porthole will affect your engine ! I've tried it and the consequence I had to face with was: engine refused to start again!!! After some researches, I've identified the issue. The tension relay was blown due to the connection of a wire between the porthole !!! Before It was in perfect condition. So don't try this on the M103 engine !!! major risk for your electronic components !
Sorry to hear that. This is predicted for M102 engines. My car is manufactured in june 1989. that's why I made it, I suppose. This is done on the X11/4, the port near the battery. I am sorry that I didn't mention this earlier. Désolé...
@@mercedeske Hello hello. No issue for me. I replaced the pump relay and the high tension relay for cheap. And mine were original parts, built in January 1987. So no issue. I just want to aware your followers that on the M103 engine, this method is not good ! Have great day and many thanks again for you tutorials ! Cheers from France !
@@jacqueshenriot8949 Hello. I'm glad for you. There is in the comments that this is not a method for m103 engines. You have a diagnostic port by the battery where you can check the codes with the obd1 scanner. Greetings
How could I tell my 300e 1988 is M102 or 103?
Every Mercedes in-line 6 engine is M103/M104 engine. There is no M102 6 cylinder engine, the strongest M102 engine is 2.5l
Thanks for this😁My ke jetronic works fine but I still want to learn about it.
You are welcome. If the car works fine, don't touch it. That's the golden rule. If you have any questions just ask.
@@mercedeske Hah😜I will not touch. Just gonna learn about it if it breaks so i know what i have to do😁👍🏻You are making it easy. Thanks!
@@kaapeli8515 Grazie, amico!
The video is very interesting thank you
My pleasure, thanks for the comment👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You are king king❤❤
Thanks a lot. Happy Mercedesing!
3:15 👍🏼 Ivek slavi Mercedes zasvirao omiljene taktove🎶
Mooooora, samo cakce, a kad ga upalim samo peeeeeva! hehehehe
@@mercedeske
A koliko km je presao,ako nije tajna🙂
@@darijatomic5489 Nije, naravno. Vraćana mu je kilometraža, ima originalnih preko 300h.300 i nešto. Ali imajući u vidu da sam ga generalno podmladio ide kao blesav! Ako jednom rešim ima da konkurišem na auto analizi da se trkam sa njim na 400m, čisto da ga probam, jer sam mu obećao da će da mi "izvrišti" jednom!
@@mercedeske
Hmm,da te u potpunosti ne razumem,jos bi pomislila da je Jovek u pravu🙂😅🤣😂😁⚘
Hi
Where can i hear the sound ?
That i connect 1 and 3 then swith on ignition for five second then remove the wire … but no sound (peep or any thing ) to hear !!!!
My engine is 102
Do it on the X11/4(the rectangular switch by the battery). The sound will come from the battery. If no sound then everything is okay!
@@mercedeskesorry i don't understand you😊
What is the rectangular switch by the battery?
Thank you for replying because i have many issues in my car
@@mercedeske do you mean the rectangular switch near the battery which have 8 holes .
Can i connect 1 and 3 in that rectangular switch??? Then continue the same as the circular switch?
I have a 1988 w126 420sel with pre-OBD system. There is only a round, 9 pin connector and no other connector or data port/output in engine bay.
Will this method work, or is there a similar jumper method for this model?
It is showing check engine light on, but I don't know how to retrieve the codes.
Thank you for any help!
Hello. I think it will work. I think that the check engine light could be because of the lambda. Have you replaced the lambda probe?
@@mercedeske i have not. Which is the lambda probe? The same as O2 sensor?
@@mercedeske there is very little info about this set up. Most all references mention the impulse display button, or at least being able to use a probe or display.
The other references mention only lambda readout, and I think there's a duty cycle output supposedly, but no reference to code acquisition.
So, I should go ahead and jump pin 1 &3, and see what happens?
Thank you so much for your guidance!
Hey could you tell me where to find the OBD1 in the m102 engine? I have a 1985 w201 or 190E
It's located looking at the right fender near the battery. It has a rectangular shape and 8 pins.
Hey bro thanks. I found it could you do a video on vacuum line not just point them out like you did but to say what there for and how to hook them back up. I bought the car from a widow and a lot of the vacuum line are disconnected. my central locking my ac so as much help I can get I will be thankful
Thanks a lot. I will see what I can do. Greetings
Thanks. Very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Do you have any diagnostic for A/C wiring on 1986 190e
don't have a socket for the third pin. there is no terminal for the third. it is empty.
Useful as always 👍🏻
Micheeeeeleee, mi amico, molto grazie. Sono contento che mi sostieni come sempre!!!
@@mercedeske sempre!
@@micheledirocco4994 hehehehe👌👏👍💪
What is the diagnostic socket on 1987 300e w124? I can only find that 9 pin
It is located at the right fender by the battery. If there is none on your car then you don't have it.
@@mercedeske yes I think that is the reality. The other connection makes things look so easy so I wanted to find
Hello, i have 1986 420 SEC C126 chasis and car has the same 9 pin connector under the hood. Is this procedure applies to my vehicle as well?
This method is for the M102 engines from september '89 but, it's worth to try, I can not guarantee.
Thank you very much. I want to try but i afreid not to damage any component especially the ecu
@@ugurbuhara6584 I understand you. I wasn't confident either. You decide, I wouldn't like to feel responsible for anything.
Hi ...I have 1983 S123 MB230TE 4 cylinder engine the round diagnostic socket is on the left (driver side) front side fender by the ABS
Thank you very much brother
Always, you are welcome😀
W201 1983 M102961 engine. wire on pin 1 and 3. No beat at all. Tried many times no beat at all.why?
To tell you the truth that's because I mixed up ports X11(round one at the left fender) with the X11/4(rectangular one by the battery). This procedure has to be done at the X11/4. How I made it on the X11, I have no clue!!! The procedure is the same as I described it on the video!
I dont have that thing near my battery. Checked every where. It is just not there. I only have the X11
Hello
on my W201 the pin 3 is missing
how can i check it ?
it is a round OBD from 1985
Try it out, maybe.
@@mercedeske what do you mean ?
@@milxl I have heard for it pin 3 missing. Try the first one down right ↘️ with the third one from it. Maybe it works.
Pozdrav Ivice.koliko novaca je taj multimetar .razmisljam dali da kupim oscilosko ili to.izgleda da je cijena tu negdje
@@damiropadobarglumskiperiod505 Iskreno rečeno, bolji ti je običan, nisam zadovoljan ovim, što se tiče radnog ciklusa, to ti isto nije potrebno, to je samo napon u vremenu(milisekunde. Sve u svemu, svaki od 2500din. će da ti završi posao, a I oni jeftiniji čak. Pozdrav.
@@mercedeske da .osciloskop sam razmisljao da kupim radi peugeota koji se povremeno gasi pa je sumnja na cam i crank shaft sensor pa da ne lutam a sada vidim da ima multimeter sa opcijom rpm.a za k jet...se zanimam radi oca koji je nedavno preminuo i ostao mi je 190e koji je lezao 13 g u garazi.trenutno mu ler gas stimam preko sajle jer idle mikroprekidac donnjega sajla niti dolazi.pa cu uskoro da pogledam motoric ler gasa i ostale stvari.nisam znao z diferencijalbi pritisak i da se taj sistem moze fino podesiti u cilju oprimalne potrosnje.svaki video zlata vrijedi.veoma sam vam zahvalan
Thanks very interesting :)
Thank you and as I said - this way you will know everything and not to go through the whole system like me. You know, Wiktor, as I erased the from the ECU mu car drives now a lot, lot better!
Hi. I have a W126 260 se from 1987. When it's cold outside it doesn't start, if I pour hot water it starts. When heated, the speed is 1300 rpm. Otherwise it works well, does not emit smoke
Check out the cold start valve and the coolant temperature sensor for the beginning.
Great video!!! You give all necessary information!!
My m103 92, 300e 2.6l has socket x11 so, does my 85 380 sl...would you consider a technique that will work for my 2 models? You, said this is only for m102.
Thank you, for sharing your knowledge!! You make it so simple to understand!!
Cheers!!!
Thank you, too. If you have a a diagnostic by the battery then you can do this. There are many different types( with 8,16 and more pins) but the principle is the same. Watch the video link in cards and you will see how you can do this.
@@mercedeske sorry, I'm a bit slow...what is cards video link? How do i find it?
Thank you!
Please keep videos coming!!
Will be contributing just as soon as I get "snow white", running like yours!! Love your sense of humor, and that you actually show your work on real time-car!
@@oceanfront664 I showed in the video a link to a video how to diagnose the ecu if you get more then one impuls from the ecu and how to hook the obd1 scanner on your socket.
Hello, thank you for this very interesting video but I also have slot number 3 which is not wired. Do you have another solution to diagnose? I have a Mercedes W124 230E 2.3 136 year 1985
Thank you
Hello, I believe you have an 8 pin diagnostic for that by the battery at the right fender. There you can check for codes with the obd1 scanner.
@@mercedeske I don't have an 8 pin diagnostic next to the battery. I find the ECU nothing else. I have the same thing as on your video
I have a 230e m102 engine 1985 too.. w124 body. I also have no socket for the third terminal in the obd 1 diagnostic. I tried doing what was discussed in the video but the third in the diagnostic is just an empty slot like what you said.
¡Great vid Ivica👍🏼!
But what could I do for an 87 with m110 in a w460…ECU/OBD? Any way to adapt anything? Anyone 🤷🏽♂️
If you have a diagnostic socket by the battery then yes, otherwise don't do it!
From Portugal.
Thanks, very helpful for my 260E (1990).
But I still haven’t managed to keep the idle on cold and hot start, having to keep accelerating at 1,500rpm for 1 minute and after that.
Have you checked the potentiometer?
@@mercedeske thanks for the response. Not yet, but how do you get it right ?
@@jafavie Hehehehehe porque eu sou doctor de KE-Jetronic(estou brincando um pouco). De nada, eu responderei sempre quando gente tem problemas. Supus que tens mais de 100 mil km no relógio junto com as simtomas e...
@@mercedeske the car has 367,000 km and I am the 3 or 4 owner and I don't know if the potentiometer has already been replaced. So, I'm going to take it out and see how the contacts are doing and from there, eventually replace.
In the meantime I have already seen your 2 videos on how to replace and adjust the potentiometer after informing you as it can serve as information for another similar case. Many thanks for your unconditional support for this community of mercedists (worldwide).
It's my pleasure. As far as I can and as I know I will try to help everyone with his car. Many greetings for Portugal 🇵🇹 muitos cumprimentos da Sérvia e dirijam seus Mercedes com sorte, todos vocês...
Pin 1 is rpm, pin 3 is duty cycle. Is that right? Short it then turn key to on, hear for clicks
Right, but if you have the diagnostic socket by the battery do it there, the same pins, 1 and 3. Of you don't have it, try it then on the X11, if you have an m103 engine, don't do it.
@@mercedeske noted and Thx, I don't see the rectangle diagnostic interface near battery . I can only see the round 9 pin interface by the ezl
@@rfbuIs your car prior to september 89?
Thanks a lot for video. I have 102.910 with cat and o2 cencor. To clearify, how should we understand the cycle of beats ? You gave an expamle for 1st 2 2nd 5 3th 9 4th 2 again and said that its equal 3 beats. What is the mathematics for that?
Greetings, the example I gave is to understand how many errors you have - it may be single one, and maybe more of them. I gave the example for 3 errors. It's like this - note how many beats you hear for the first time. Then you take the wire out and stick it again for about 5 seconds to see if you have more errors in the system. Repeat the process until you hear the same number of beats as for the first time. In my example it were the errors number 2, 5 and 9. If you looked in the table you would see that you have an issue with the FULL OPEN THROTTLE(that's under number 2), LAMBDA PROBE(that's under number 5) and BAD OR NO CURRENT FLOWING TO THE EHA(that's under number 9). Maybe you get some other number of beats, maybe a single one(NO ERRORS). Example number 2 - you get four beats for the first time. For the second time you get four beats again. That means you have only one error - BAD VOLTAGE TO THE POTENTIOMETER! I hope now you understand. Best regards
@@mercedeske thanks a lot for the feedback. its very important information. also, during this process, should the igniton need to be on, while i am sticking in and out the wire until i hear same beat again?
Yes, all the time.
@@mercedeske greatful for quick reply and information
Everything for my subscribers! ;-)
This method not working💁 Only ICV valve click.
Exactly. If your car is starting from september 89.
Salvation .
I have a Mercedes class E 420 from July 1997
I have a problem and I can't solve it
I have the automatic transmission stuck in second gear.
I changed the transmission, the electrical plate, complete oil change, and the problem still persists. I would like to know if you have any idea of the problem? Please .
Tony.
Hello, looks like you will have to plug in the car on the diagnostic. Nothing can be said just like that. Fingers crossed 🤞🏻
Hi Ivica, I would appreciate your help and support with the following issue I have with my W124 300 CE 1991: mid range drive 40 to 60 mph engine looses a little bit of power and takes a few seconds to get to 80mph. After reaching the 80, engine becomes loud and gets some of the power back. When stopped at traffic light, idling rom jumps every seconds from 500 to 750 and sometimes engine dies.
O2 sensor, spark plugs, wires all new. Just ordered new potentiometer, idle valve control and fuel pressure regulator. And forgot to mention when turning steering wheel all the way left/& right engine might die as well.
Where should I start replacing parts?!
Thank you
Adrian
This is the clear sign that you have a faulty idle control valve(for the beginning 😁) and if I were you I would check the injectors as well(you have the video on my channel). If you need anything else just contact me. Best regards, Ivica FyM
Thank you Ivica, was thinking to replace the injectors as well, will follow up in a week.
Have a wonderful weekend.
One more question Ivica, 80 mph and up the engine becomes loud and I was told is die to air flow meter? Where should I start with figuring out what’s wrong?!
Could we get an o call when you are available?! Would appreciate your time.
@@adrianioanlungu When ever you want. Just send me your phone number in my mail(schilleryu@yahoo.com). I have everything - viber, whatsapp, signal, telegram
@@mercedeske Will email you my contact
Which one do you want to erase first? Damn.
Hi, very interesting video thanks for sharing your so pratical knowledge ! A question please. I have a W126 mercedes with M103 engine. My car is form 1987 and it has the same ODB1 socket port than your W124 mercedes. This is a 9 holes port. Is your method with the wire applicable for my M103 engine with this same socket plug ? Thanks for your answer. Cheers !
This is for m102 the engines from september '89 but you can try. Some people told me that their fuel pump start working constantly using the ports 1 and 3(interesting). But if you succeed the be sure that the table with the number of impulses is right so you know what you are dealing with. To tell you the truth, this is for the diagnostic socket at the battery on the firewall. There is a diagnostics there but I don't know how I managed to make it work on the x11(where you read duty cycle). Best regards
@@mercedeske Ok Thanks. I will check tomorrow and will let your know. It might interest other mercedes CIS spotters ! cheers.
Good video sir. One question... Will this work on my w124 1987 us spec? Algo what kind of wire I have to use? Thanks
I think not. This is for the M102 models beginning from the september '89. My instruction manual says like that. Do you have a kat?
@@mercedeske ok thanks for the quick response
@@Pellogt My pleasure. Any time you have any problem just send a message! ;-) Best regards
Can you write a list? I seem to get no clicks following this:
1. Jump socket 1 and 3
2. turn on ignition wait five seconds
3. take out jumper and listen
Then it's okay. I get no sounds, too. There is one sound that comes out of the diagnosis. I heard that sound afterwards as I was editing the video. 😀 It's something like when you switch your cell phone off. That's the sound I repeated for 5 times.
@@mercedeske but am I not supposed to to hear at least one click after removing the jumper?
@@hanzo52 I was confused, too. But the car works fine and that's the most important.
Hi. I'm trying to adjust my air/fuel mix but unfortunately my car doesn't have pin 3, all other are present but that one is missing. Is there any way I can measure the duty cycle without that pin to accurately adjust it?
No, number 3 is for the injection. Some other people have been complaining me about that problem! I don't know how it's possible.
@@mercedeske Can't seem to find out why that pin is missing, I'll keep on looking. Great content by the way.
@@fs8195 Thanks, hope you solve your issue. Greetings
In my 190e fuel pump start working and I don’t head any clicks ,why?
Does the fuel pump start when you turn the ignition on?
@@mercedeske yes
@@aggelosxronas4136Then everything is okay. On the older models the pump can not be bridged there, on the new ones it can.
my name is ali i am from pakistan and i have a mercedes 126 380 SEL in garage and all the engine wiring is burnt so i need to make a new wiring for it i need wiring diagram For engine wiring ABS and All components part numbers please Help thank you
Hi
I have e190 w201 1.8 1993 , the acceleration is slow , I am not sure if it's vaccume or engine , it has new oil spark plugs , fuel pump , I did obd test I only heard 1 click , the downshift gear switch is working , when I drive up steep hill I accelerate, but nothing happens sometimes but other times is goes fast . I am thinking I might have faulty potentiometer
Check it.
Yes I try , I got 1 beat . I ordered proximity sensor anyhow , but I think mabie seal in ktronic pump I sell fuel sometimes
I smell fuel ,,, corection
Possibly!
Check the pump if it's the non return valve.
Can you help me with a 1992 Mercedes 300E I am getting a cold reading of 28 blinks
In my table it says LOOSE CONTACTS IN THE CIRCUIT COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR.
@@mercedeske thanks 😊
@@jerryross1278 My pleasure happy Mercedesing
Hello
Good film brother 😉
But I have a question.
In my sl 300 92 model I have bought of diagnostic socket. I have 6 cylinder engine.
What diagnostic shoud I used it?
Greetings and thank you for the comment. Use OBD1 because OBD2 came later 1996. You should have 16 ports. I posted the link how it's done. There should be a socket close to your battery. Stick it there according to the link.
@@mercedeske hi, where is the link? maybe thats the reason of my stuck on 50% duty cycle problem (o2 sensor problem) I didnt check or erase any fault codes after changing the o2 sensor and many other sensors!
In the cards. Here and leave the comment if you succeeded, please!
m.th-cam.com/video/6kPrF5aE_WU/w-d-xo.html
You are right! I also had that problem as I replaced the O2 sensor. As I deleted the code, the car drives now like reborn!
@@mercedeske nice then i will have to find a 16 pin code reader
Hi... Your OB1 scanner diagram on instagram, could you please tell how the red, black & wires are connected to the 9 hole diagnostic port? Thanks.
Do you have the port on the right side at the battery nearby?
@@mercedeske yes, I have a 9 hole diagnostic port there.
@@paulfester9652 I wanted to double check. Black in 1, red on the battery, yellow in 3.
@@mercedeske Does the Red get connected to + positive terminal of battery?
@@paulfester9652 Yes! ;-) For everything else
www.mercedescodereader.com/index.html
Mine has no lambda sensor so I believe it's not possible to perform this
If you have the pin3 then you can, otherwise no.
I have this on my 1991 R129, and the other OBD thing as well.
It is M103 engine.
Check the one by the battery, the rectangular one, that's where you will read the codes.
@@mercedeske OK thanks for replying. But the battery is in the boot (300 SL). I guess you mean use the one on the passenger side (left hand drive car). Trouble is, I have ABS and ASR lights on but this system is not available to the scanner, apparently...?
Yes, the passenger side. If the ABS is on then something is wrong either with the OVP(blown fuse) or you don't have power supply on the contact 87E - one of them is for the ECU, the other one for the ABS but I would rather say that you probably have problem with brakes because your ASR is ON. Maybe the sensors(dirt as potential cause) or there is something wrong with your electronic accelerator. That much i can say this way...
@@mercedeske Thank you. The OVP is new and fine and everything works on the car as normal but still the lights. The electronic accelerator seems ok, smooth, even the tempomat works ok, but I will check it if I can.
You're doing a great job.
Continue like this, you help many with your knowledge ..
Do you have any advice for us who have the 560 engine?
What can we look at to use what you have shown us so far that also goes for us with these 560 engines.
Best regards from
Dag Nilsen.
Norway ..
Hi, thanks a lot. What I showed here is for M102 engines but it also applies for other engines if you have an eight pins(or more) diagnostic by the battery at the firewall. For this you will need an OBD1 scanner if you want to read the codes. What I can say is - replace the lambda probes at 50k km, check the potentiometers at 150k km if they still hold the voltage steady. These two are the most common issues on the KE-Jetronic, never, and I repeat NEVER touch/don't let someone touch either the CO-screw or the fuel distributor unless you really have to(a shaky engine which turns out to be either a bad injector or a chamber out of which fuel doesn't flow, an uneven fuel flow or too much fuel leaking out of the fuel distributor). Check your injectors each 150k km to see if they started dripping, squirting... These injectors are mechanical and CAN NOT be cleaned in the ultrasonic bath, they have to be replaced. As for the EHA, if it goes bad you will feel pressure loss(car stumbling) so check if the fuel is not leaking out of its little holes(the EHA becomes all wet - wipe it with a paper towel and if the EHA becomes all wet again, well, it has to be replaced).
That's something in brief,
best regards from Serbia and "Happy Mercedesing"
Hi...
Thanks for the quick response to my post.
I have probably mispronounced myself a bit regarding this with the 560 W126 Series.
I have a 560SEC 1986.
I've probably already done what you think should be done.
The car was traded (came from California via Japan) and to Norway.
I have replaced it a lot.
Changed:
All gaskets in fuel distributor.
8 new Bosh nozzles. And all the gaskets around these.
Register tighter 4pcs. (these in plastic that chips up and destroys the engine)
Cam drove 2 pcs (After changing, the car changed gait - became «softer».
All the rubber that is on and around the intake manifold.
The large rubber that sits under the fuel distributor. It was patched with glue.
Plug wires 8 pcs (Bosh) with the correct Ohm.
Had to replace EHA got hold of a used one. Which works fine according to what I think.
Has taken a picture from inside the cylinders (EndoScoop)
Is not a hint of wear. Can still see the little arrow showing
which way the piston should be during assembly from the factory.
There is no carbon buildup on the piston top.
The compression is 11.4 kg on all 8. On cold engine.
Now the engine runs about 625 rpm hot engine in N.
In D it goes down to a little over 500 rpm.
And it's going steadily. No vibration.
I also got hold of the original AMG Cast Iron Headers.
They're going on this winter.
The car is only used in the summer.
BUT.!
I have an annoying problem - The heater does not work.
I have checked that the small engines that are to draw in air from the cabin are running. They're ok.
The strange thing here is I get to start the heating appliance when the car is inside one
cold garage in winter - then it starts.
I have replaced the mono vault, with original MB.
Have checked several places online. And tested out many of the suggestions.
Has even replaced the ignition module located behind the ignition key.
(the device with 8 contact points, it is also new).
I don't think it is the heater console - Of course I can't be sure of that. But!
I think there is something with a thermostat regulator somewhere on the engine block..
I have replaced some of them too, ..
Something completely different.
Maybe you should make it possible for us with Mercedes and post pictures of the cars?
Med Hilsen
Dag.
Norway..@@mercedeske
@@mtc57 Hi, as for the heating the only thing I can think of is either the thermostat or you would have to flush the heater core.
@@mercedeske Ok.
I have a new thermostat, and a new water pump.. I will change both of them, start to night.
I'll keep you updated
Regards
Dag.
From
Norway..
@@mtc57 Hear from you in the comments.
(edited because I realized I was talking USA exclusively...)
Hello and thanks for the comment. The car is manufactured on june 1989 and what I am talking about is for KE III M102 engines from september 1989. The car has no diagnostics by the battery. As for the M103 engines, if you have 16 socket diagnostic, 1 is for ground, 3 is for the injection(yellow) and 16 is for power(red). If you have an 8 socket - 1 is for ground, 3 is for the injection(yellow) and the red goes to the battery. For California models number 2 is for OBD.
Number 2 is OBD for California models.
Thanks for your help, to improve your $$$$ from the chanel you can become Amazon afiliate and make recomendations of spares and tools to fix our old cars. Regards¡¡¡
hello my 190 has an obd1 socket like you 9 small pin for fault codes can we do with a warning light??? I have documentation on I found on the net not terrible it says that a device is needed that says the values in % is it true that this device is absolutely necessary can you give me a link in the message or I could download the empty table error for obd socket 1 of 9 small pin thank you I await the answer with great importance and again congratulations for your superb videos say hello to the beautiful young lady from me thank you
Hi and thanks. The lady greets you as well. :D Concerning the diagnostic on the KE. On the system KE3 1986-1989(september) the codes where displayed in %. Afterwards the X11/4 was used(at the right fender, a rectangular shaped device with 8 and more pins). In this video I didn't know that I had an ECU from the later version and the ECU had that CODE - a bad lambda. All W126versions have these, concerning 190E there is a California version which has even a button integrated. As for the errors, you have the table in my video.
Muy buenos videos , podría decirme en español en el puerto redondo dónde conectar el multimetro en %hz para controlar la válvula electro hidráulica tengo un 300ce-24 muchas gracias
Hola. Puedes consultar el propio eha. Conecte el multímetro al eha y mida la corriente (mA) de esa manera puede ver qué hace la ECU y cómo se comporta. Verifique la polaridad de ambos pines porque siempre cambia. Debe obtener entre -3 y 0 mA en ralentí cuando el automóvil está caliente y no una diferencia significativa a 2000 rpm. Muchos saludos.
@@mercedeske muchas gracias !
Ivice odlicno kao i uvek,ali moze li malio vise srbskih videa?
Pozdrav
Hocu, uradicu i ovaj na srpskom, a i razdelnik cu morati isto. Ne znam da li sam tebi obecao ili nekom drugom. Kako si ti, jel sve u redu sa kolima? Pozdrav od mene
@@mercedeske Bilo bi dobro,mada mozda za tebe naporno da svaki video video uradis i na sbskom i engleskom.Sa kolima je sve ok ,ja sam za sada dobro sto i tebi zelim .
Pozdrav
@@aleksandardjuraskovic7742 Drago mi je i hvala ti, divan si. Sve najbolje i ja tebi zelim.
@@aleksandardjuraskovic7742 Jos jedan lik me je zamolio da uradim poslednji video na srpskom, tako da nema problema, bice.
Epa, Aco, izvoli, sada imas isti video i na srpskom! ;-)
thanks
You're welcome!
Mene zanima koje ulje 🍹koristi tvoj ljubimac,da li si to vec negde preporucio?☕
Jesam. Koristi Kastrol- Castrol Magnatec A3/B4 15W-40. Kakve boje je kada ga sipaš takve je i kada ga menjaš.
@@mercedeske
Hvala👍🏼 A da li ti se desilo da sipas pogresno ulje i sta tada😎😎😎ako zariba😶🙄🤧🤪
@@darijatomic5489 Djevuska!? Desilo mi je se samo da sam pogresio gradaciju, pa je trosio samo malo vise ulja. Polusintetika umesto mineralnog.
I was thinkin are you gonna show how exact you can adjust mixture with obd and screwdriver? That 50% +-10 thing i have read about🤔
I tried it, but I didn't manage to do it. That was before I erased the error with the lambda. I will try. If I succeed, I will make the video for sure. This is how it's done - you need a duty cycle capable multimeter that can show you percents. The conditions for this is for your lambda and the potentiometer to be good. As the car is at 80 the fuctuation must start - counterclockwise the mixture is leaner, clockwise richer - the lower number in % the richer the muixture, the higher - leaner.
There is one more way - on the terminals 2(negative),3(positive) you measure the voltage. The number you get you divide with the voltage on your battery and you multiple it with 100 - that's the percentage you want to get.
@@mercedeske You really know what you are talking about👍🏻
@@kaapeli8515 Hehehehe, I've studied the system for a looong time. These videos are spite so to speak to my former mechanic who told me something like:"Are you crazy to mess up with K-Jetronic!?" Let me tell you who you can believe from all the mechanics concerning KE-Jetronic - the one you ask why the letter K in its name, why not some other. If he doesn't know the answer, then he doesn't know the principle of the operation! If he doesn't know why the letter K but he explains you how the system functions, then okay, you can trust the guy.
You have D-Jetronic, K-Jetronic and L-Jetronic. These letters are not given randomly!
Olá amigo, quando insiro o arame ouço instantaneamente o click que me parece vir da ICV.
Olá. Não está vindo do ICV, está vindo da ECU, do computador. Se você pegar um e só então está tudo bem.
@@mercedeske Não é preciso esperar 5 segundos?
@@paserodio É preciso!
@@mercedeske Testei novamente e o click vem mesmo da ICV. Quando insiro o arame no 1 e no 3 a ICV faz click.
@@mercedeske Pode haver derivações na construção dos carros de país para país.
Hello sir
Καλημέρα σας παρακολουθώ αρκετό καιρό και είναι πολύ ενδιαφέροντα αυτά που αναφέρεται .δεν έχετε όμως αναφερθεί ποτέ για MERCEDES 123 C 230.Θα σας ήμουν ευγνώμων . Ευχαριστώ τον χρόνο σας
Hello and thanks for the subscription to the channel. I'm going to reply in english because of the others. At first, it's a HUGE difference if we are talking about a W123C or a W123CE because the first one is equipped with the M115 engine which is on carburettor and the CE is M102 engine with K-Jetronic injection system. I don't talk about carburettors, I do have literature on those but I have never worked with them and I don't prefer carburettors in general. So if you have a CE with K-Jetronic then I can say about some similarities and differences on the system. My best regards.
14 . 👍🏼🍀
Cao sta sam propustio?
@@johnnybravo6672 th-cam.com/video/pLhbnPWyAjI/w-d-xo.html
1:19 kad je cula da Ivek krece na pecanje😉😅
U ribolov na pecanje 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😉😉😉
@@mercedeske
Hoces reci ne znas da plivas,pa ni ne pecas😁😎ili🙄
@@darijatomic5489 Djevuska, ako me pamcenje dobro sluzi ja sam naucio da plivam sa 4 ili 5 godina. A da pecam, to ne znam, a i mrzi me da gledam u vodu kao PRIZETKO U TESTAMENT!🤣🤣🤣
@@mercedeske
"Znala sam" da nesto ima oko tog pecanja...
@@darijatomic5489 I mnogo je to zahtevno - nonstop im treba stapovi, strune, hrana, kutijce, kidaju im se strune, udice, napolju temperatura u minusu, a oni ustaju u 4 ujutru da idu da zauzmu mesto... Nisam ti ja taj!
Gde si, Icko, sta radis, da li ti je dosadno, vidim nema ko da ti postavi pitanje, pa rekoh da te pitam sta koju lepu rec tipa kad ce novi klip itd.😛😛😛
Ne znam kakav je ovo ignor,od strane domacina🙄
Bice otisao u lov,nema signala😅
@@darijatomic5489 Otisao je on odavno, treba mu jedno dobro "vinklovanje"!😅😅😅
@@johnnybravo6672 🙂
Pa ti jos na ledu 🎣 dok Ivek spremi lekciju🥊
@@johnnybravo6672
Legenda kaze, da si "najistaknutiji komentator sa najvise 💖 na ovom kanalu" , pa sta bi , ko vas zavadi🤧 Ivek gde su srca za Joveka🙄
@@darijatomic5489 Stipsaaaaa! Boli ga za druga sad kada je postao popularan!
😜😜😜😜😜😜😜