we built 20 charcuterie boards in 1 day
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For those suggesting use of a CNC to speed up production, thanks for the suggestion.
A CNC requires much more time and babysitting than most people realize. This entire batch of 20 boards took 45 minutes to go from rough cut lumber to rounded over handle.
There’s just no way a consumer CNC could go faster, even if it was previously calibrated and set up. If you disagree, we invite you to try it, film it, hit that upload button, and tag us. We’d love to see it! 😉
I would only use the CNC for the template, that way your template is perfect. Then, process each board like you are, or with improvements to your process based on suggestions. :)
Yes! Gonna make a template template with the laser! Thanks to everyone for the idea
Time to upgrade to a professional grade CNC router table if you want quick, precise repeatability. Speed is the key to profitability. If you can make 500 In a day vs 50 by hand you’re golden.
I’ve got a friend who owns a screen printing tee shirt company who just got a 200k machine to manufacture masks and the volume he can produce a day is paying for the machine and netting him a nice profit margin. And he gets quality results. They started with a sewing machine by hand and went from a few masks a week to thousands a day.
You just have to be willing to take your business to the next level. Build it, and they will buy.
Had a cnc - sold it for exactly the se reasons you stated.
Gotta respect the level you’re on. Can’t go too fast, can’t go too slow.
Here's my 40 plus years of woodworking input. Your template should be perfect from the start. The flaws created by a not perfect template cause the loss of time and lessens the quality of your product. The time it takes to correct your one template will save you. Time is money! Never lower your standard! Tip: You used the bandsaw to freehand a straight line. Use the band saws fence to add in cutting a straight line. A properly aligned fence and properly tensioned band saw blade works perfect every time. Certain woods extract oils from within. End grain will always burn faster than long grain. Slow your speed down on your router. Speed equals heat buildup. Not using a variable speed router, then add an after market speed control unit. Don't slow your feed rate in the corners. Wipe the edge of your boards down with Naptha or Laquer Thinner to remove surface oils prior to routing. I spray my flush trim bits down with a Dry Teflon spray. This helps to reduce friction. All this will help to reduce burns marks but minimizing them is key. Then it's up to the light touch of a spindle sander to deal with those inside corner burn marks that may still happen. I am disappointed that you never took the time to learn how to use software to make your CNC a viable workshop tool. I mastered Vectric's V-Carve software in less than 6 hours. The days of hand making template patterns is behind me and I use the CNC to produce parts for mass production these days. Good luck!
Given the girth of the ultimate spiral pattern bit (which is the whiteside bit they are using) a router that doesn't have adjustable speeds shouldn't even be part of the conversation. :) That thing is almost an inch wide, having it running at the same rpm as a 1/4 inch shank roundover bit is just WAY too fast.
In your video, I could not help noticing that your handle in your template was not straight. I could take my eyes off of it from scene to scene in Hope's the flaw would disappear. I agree with the remarks above. A perfect template equals much better results. In your videos you keep on talking about your quality products. I know that you are striving to increase production by decreasing product build time. I believe that you should devote more time making quality products than reducing your time making so so quality items. Dont get me wrong here. I think you both are doing an excellent job passing on quality information to your followers (that is why I follow you as well). I am just making an observation that as a consumer I would have preferred seeing this item with a straight handle.
If you add a dowel/peg to the template the size of the hole your drilling and drill it first you will have a faster registration point each time
I was thinking that also. Do the drilling first. And also, I know that the jig is oversized to fit bigger boards later, but you could make a stop block on one side for the edge of the board to align against. It only needs to be at the end of the board not the full length of the jig. So a small 2" block in conjunction with the dowel David mentioned would make setting/aligning the boards in the jig quicker. You can incorporate the stop into the jig itself by making it adjustable.
Sweet idea!
Adding a cleat to the clamp board. So you don't have to all ways center , and jig out the drill press using the clamp board . Btw great work. I am currently building a wood shop my self. Yall are great inspiration.
If you offset the handles, it would add interest to the board (non-symmetrical) and also allow you to nest the handles next to each other on your board reducing waste. Like a yin-yang symbol.
You nailed it. More interesting handles also would bring more money in. Sosrry to say but this is as simple as it goes
Increase the radius by your handle, will eliminate the burning and save on sanding. Will also make your bit last longer with less heat build up.
An idea if possible to lower the speed of the router.
@@rnunes350z Yes, lowering spindle speed will do the job - AND make the bit last longer.
Or increase feed rate. The bit is sitting in the area too long. Keep the router speed but push through much faster... Peck into the corners if needed
Reducing router speed will reduce applied torque as well... These bad boys excel at higher speeds
Yknow when people say all that bs about subscribing?
Why do they even need to do it when you have the first 20 seconds of this video as a perfect example of why people smash it out of pure joy 🤣😜 what a premise.. excited to see what this channel is about.. instantly 🤣🤣🤣
You could use a Mid sized CNC for adding enhancements to your boards, eg flower profiles in corners, or 3D cheese wedges & 🍞 bread. Will enhance your boards & increase value for nominal cost per board.
You could also use a "cove box" bit on fast CNC to hollow recess top face of your boards approx 1/2" from edge, 3/8" deep. Stop foods sliding off & catch crumbs like a plate normally would.
How about building on your idea...instead of clamping a board onto your template, you add add 3 “sides”. You’d cut your boards to specific size that drops into your template with sides, then only have to rout the handle side.
I noticed you have burn marks on many of your boards after routing out the handles. Sanding burn marks takes lots of time. I wonder if you would save time by making two passes. The first one would take off most of the waste. The second pass would clean up the cut without burning if you moved the sled faster past the bit on the second cut so it wouldn't burn. You'd have no burn marks to sand off. I saw your short intro on what I think might have been a C-130. Thanks for your service, Davis. I am a retired F-15, F-5 USAF pilot and appreciate your video.
Self adhesive sandpaper on the sled will double the clamping ability.
Maybe someone already suggested it but you could tape up a stack of boards and run the stack through the bandsaw when cutting handles.
Suggestion for your intro. “... through hurricanes for research and build furniture for fun.” Add “and profit” after fun. While y’all demonstrate the “fun”, you are also ultimately building furniture for “profit” based on your business plan.
How long does it currently take you to make one board from start to finish? If it were me, I’d use the CNC to cut the boards, and while it is busy with the second batch, work on finishing the first batch. And use the CNC to make finishing templates to make your work easier.
What are the dimensions of the boards, and what do you use to finish them?
I know you mentioned the CNC would be slower. Rather than CNCing out the template or the whole board, just finish the handle. If your boards are going to be a standard width/format, you could make some registration marks in a jig that is fixed to the table and only run the program for the handle. This way you could still be cutting out the boards, changing them out and having the cnc do the finishing on them. Heck you could even trace the shape on the spoil board, zero it to the center of the handle, cut the outline, drill press the hole, round over the board and you are done.
Here is my suggestion and it will actually double your routing speed. Make the jig twice as long. Have it setup where two cheese boards are butted end to end. Then modify your clamps to hold down both boards at the same time. Add a board to use instead of the rubber hold down piece. You can do this will the 4 clamps you have by adding a single clamping board on each side. Then you can trim route 2 boards before the need to setup another 2 boards.
You need a handheld router for your finishing.
Build a basic alignment jig for the final drilling so it is centered on the drill press. Looked like you were eyeing that.
This is how cigarettes are made. The butts are on both ends and are cut as part of a final step.
Have you guys gotten your CNC to work? Maybe use that to cut the template?
Or just to cut the boards? Let the robot do all that work while they're finishing the previous ones
Use a CNC to create a “perfect” template with straight lines. You might even have this done fairly inexpensively at a local shop that already has a CNC. You could even incorporate a hole for a registration dowel as suggested in another comment.
You’d be surprised how much time it will eat up to change the router table from the template bit to the round over at the end. Save yourself the time of changing the bits by having your final round over set up in another small trim router (the Bauer trim router from Harbor Freight is super cheap and plenty capable for this purpose).
Let the round over just live in that router as a dedicated tool so you can just grab it and go.
I agree, but maybe not a Bauer ;)
A Bosch 1.25 HP mini router is a great little go to for this type of finish detail work, and its not terribly expensive.
I just cut down a BUNCH of time in my business by making a large router table with trim routers mounted into it attached to foot pedals. When efficiency is brought into the picture, changing bits not only takes time, it is an opportunity to slow down/take breaks/get distracted where you should be working.
When we have the floor space, multiple routers will definitely be the way forward! Thanks for the suggestion 😊
I would also agree with this comment. The cabinet shop I used to work for had two Bosch colt routers set up dedicated for edge rounding. One had a 1/16" round over bit, the other had a 1/8" round over bit. It's amazing the time savings in having tools set up for one specific task. Grab, use, and back on the shelf for the next project with no slow down in production. We also had this same philosophy with large hand held routers. One had a dedicated flush trim bit for trimming face frames where they joined the visible plywood sides.
Make the radius in template a little bigger than the router bit to avoid the burning in the corner
On your drill press, when you drill the hole in the handle is a great place for a template that will hold and register the handle in the same place every time to drill the hole. It will save time and reduce the amount of thinking you need to do while drilling 50 holes in the exact same place.
Great video, once again. I like the template idea with the toggle clamps. You’ve given me some ideas! Thanks!
Where do you sell your boards?
Instead of using a washer to space your line away from the template, use a regular (not thin) sharpie right up against the edge of the template, and then bandsaw just to the outside of the sharpie. That'll save you a few seconds per board.
Your focus here is solely on productivity and that comes with potentially serious risks. I used to have five fingers on my left hand but because I was more focused on productivity than safety I don't have those fingers anymore. When the video shows you on the bandsaw the blade is fully exposed. Accidents never give advance notice. A simple slip or distraction and ... well, you get the picture! Don't sacrifice safety for productivity. An advantage of working with a partner is the ability to look out for each other.
Best wishes to you both as you grow your business.
Get the template CNC cut so it is perfect! I’m not talking about buying a CNC... just hire out the template to someone with a CNC.
where do you get the wood?
Have you seen Izzy Swann latest video using a vacuum template?
I love the washer trick. I forgot about that. Cool jig. Still rocking the makita track saw?
An efficiency improvement: Mount the branding iron to the drill press arbor (mount in such a way it doesn't easily rotate) and set a two sided fence to align your boards corner. Then use the drill press handle to pull the iron down to a repeatable location and with a more consistent pressure.
try drilling the hole first, and keying that drilled hole on your template so you dont have to feel to confirm it is hanging over the edge. just a thought.
If each board is the same size, then you could also add a fence to bottom edge so all you have to do is slam the board in the template, clamp it, and route it.
If you try lowering the RPMs of your router and moving the workpiece through a little faster, you should reduce or eliminate the burn marks. Reducing the speed will create less heat and moving the piece faster will reduce the to the board is in contact with the bit.
Have you tried using your CNC machine to route the handle and drill the hole? You will need to add some registration stops on the CNC spoil board. Depending upon the size of the CNC bed, you could mount multiple boards. As one board is done and routing is being done on another, the finished board can be removed and replaced with another ready for machining.
Might be worth adding some stop blocks, so that you don’t have to check when you are placing the board on the jig. I’ve got two ideas. 1. Permanent block at the other end of the jig, ensures positioning and repeatable size. 2. Place the jig against a block, the put the board on and butt up to the block. Saves time checking with your hand.
How much do you charge for those boards?
make your handles just a little longer and the inside transition corners with a larger radius....and they won't burn with your router bit :-)
My only suggestion would be to adjust your router speed when doing the handle corners so you don't get burn marks.
Put a fence and a stop on the band saw to cut the waste corner so you don´t have to mark where to cut and can cut faster because is just push until stops and flip it to cut the other side, do it in batches rip cuts first and then the cross cuts, this way you can go closer to the line, remember that the less material you trim with the router process will be faster and cleaner.
First, I love what you guys are trying to do and think it is awesome you are sharing your process with all of us. The sled is a brilliant idea. Someone else said this also but I just wanted reinforce it. That is a pretty big bit, so play around with the speed of the router a bit. Bigger bits generally work better when they are slowed down, and this could really help with the burning... thus saving some sanding time. Can’t wait to see the final process. Good luck!
This sounds a lot like an agile/scrum methodology and other iterative processes (fail fast so you can recover quickly, and pivot to meet the current goals/trends) from the IT world. Or rapid prototyping from the manufacturing world. LEAN processing used in office and healthcare.
I was thinking the exact same thing. It’s kinda of weird that it’s not incorporated into more disciplines.
Suggestion: don't eat and drink and talk at the same time. I have enjoyed the other videos I've seen tho, thanks for those.
I am also in the Houston area, where do you get your wood from?
Hello, I am about to purchase some bowl gouges for my lathe from Amazon. I know it is unrelated to this video but I would like to support you so if you have a General link to Amazon I would like to use that to buy them.
A cnc is needed if you want the make something quickly. That’s your goal isn’t it?.
Making changes on the fly is done easily and only requires an edit or 3. Not building a different jig if you change the design. Your boards are very simple in geometry.
A more complex board should take less than 2 minutes to make on a cnc it will be much more precise too.
You should make a template for the drill press, so the hole is centered every time.
Excellent video! The principle of "don't let perfect be the enemy of good" - or great in this case - is exemplified.
So my 2 cents. I will second the bit diameter vs inside corner radius. If they are the same, you will burn every time. Make your template to minimize downstream work, uneven edge equals more sanding. Do you like sanding? 99.99% of woodworkers don't, maybe you enjoy it. Also you need a blowout block on the last part of your cut, if you had to trim that edge because of blowout that equals another step. If you figure to final size the width after this step then ignore the blowout block.
Get another router for the round over, I'd put it in another router table. You'll save time even with the cost of the tool.
One other suggestion, you hate double stick tape, toggle clamps are better but not the best. Look up vacuum clamping. It would be worth your time if you are doing batch production of quantity of parts. One off type things, double stick tape. What you are doing , spend the time on the jigs. Use your CNC to make the prototype jig, then use that to make you production runs.
When you are clearing the waste on the bandsaw, get within 1/16 of your final cut. Saves time on the template routing and wear and tear on the bit. It will take practice but you can do it. One safety thing, lower the upper blade guide on your bandsaw, keep it 1" or less above your work, if the blade breaks you won't be as likely to get hurt. Also the blade doesn't flex as much when supported closer to the work you are cutting.
Hopefully these thoughts might help you out.
Thanks for your suggestions! This comment must have taken some time - we appreciate it!
You guys have great ideas. Love the videos. I do a lot of router work with templates too. I always have a hard time getting the right distance from the actual size cut on the bandsaw. Just happened to see you use a washer with your pencil marking to keep the distance correct. Pure genius. Every little tip helps. Thanks!
My suggestion would be to connect the clamp handles on one side to eachother, so you only need one movement per side to clamp down your work instead of each clamp individually.
Love your work and info, I'm learning a lot from this.
Reduce the size of the cutting board to 2/3, it’s a gift from a realtor not from family. The majority materials should be the cheapest complemented by thin strips of more expensive materials. Again, 99% of ppl won’t know and it will look awesome.
Good luck !
The jig was a good idea but just remember that potential purchasers like "unique" designs that give them a choice rather than one board looking exactly like the other 986655 hundreds! I know you are trying to expedite your labor time per board but having templates for several different styles might just improve your sales. Just a thought, no criticism!!
I know it's a lot of cash and I know I said it before but you really need a industrial CNC router. I know you have or had a CNC router and to me I see that type of CNC router as a hobby machine or as you called it a consumer CNC because they are not the rigid and don't have the horsepower. If a CNC router can't do the job in one pass then you don't want it. A industrial CNC router would easily do what you did in under 10 minutes with a smooth finish, this includes loading time. One day when the two of you want to take a drive call up RouterCAD in Terrell Texas and visit there shop. Make sure they have one to look at a test run on the shop floor first. You can pickup a new CNC router from them around 35K. The best part in your case would be you can get it in 220 volt single phase with a vacuum table, vacuum pumps and a automatic tool changer for that price. That is perfect for a garage shop or even if you move to industrial building as long as you have the proper 220 volt power source in the shop. We have six CNC router with names like Onsrud and Biesse. Over a year ago I purchased a CNC router from RouterCAD just to do drawer rollouts and high backs because I didn't want to pay the price for a Onsrud or Biesse. I liked the CNC router and price so much I just place a order last month for two more to make other products starting next year. With a CNC router you can do so much with so little work after it comes off the CNC router. The key to CNC routing parts is if vacuum will not hold it than make fixture to hold it don't use tape or screws that's for hobby workers. I say this but sometimes the small parts move using vacuum when this happens then two passes are needed one at full depth of cut minus 0.020" and the second one at the at full depth of cut. If people think CNC's are slow or don't give a good finish then they haven't been around a industrial CNC router. If they think it takes to much time to load them then they don't know about fixtures or don't know how to design them for speed loading. I tell you the biggest problem we have dealing with wood is getting rid of our rejected wood. It's all hardwood 8 to 10 foot long 1 inch thick and most of it 3 to 4 inches wide. Why is it rejected? Because it has a knot in it or the color isn't right. We get rid of a 40 yard trailer load every week. I wish I knew a company that would take it all every week instead of us putting it into the landfill. We also send 80 to 120 yards of UV coated wood to the landfill a week but that I see most likely can't be used to turn to other products like fire pellets. We have someone that takes all our wood chips that come out of our three baghouses. We give it to him and he sales it as horse stable beading. Now you know that before you make to much scrap or wood chips you'll need to find a way to get rid of it. We pay about 1K a week putting it into the landfill.
routing 20 boards with a fucked up template is something to behold
Throw clamps. Been using them for decades. Attached to a master board, with registration stops for both the pattern and the part. Drop the blank into your holder, drop the pattern in on top. or bottom depending upon the bit and follower used,, (fixed follower ie collar,, or ball bearing follower,, either attached to the cutting bit or again the collar. No pencil required once running. Just slip the part and pattern into the jig and throw the throw clamps. Yep, I finished watching and you arrived at the same point. I have produced thousands of parts that way,, and produce 12 specialty parts when required. Gravity works !!
Purchase or build a second router table for rounding over the edges. This way your not changing the setup, and two people can be working at the same time. One cutting and one rounding over edges. After all one day, you’ll have multiple employees. Have Jonny Builds make you a steel sled. 😁
Notes your comments about the CNC however changing design is a cinch and so quick. You would need to design multiple templates, one for each design so a CNC would give a huge ammonia to of flexibility.
With stopping blogs (on one side and in the back) you can make cutting on the bandsaw repeatable so you don't have to mark anything but just cut
A couple people already mentioned drilling the hole first and putting a dowel in the template for registration. That would help speed things up, as well as a temporary spacer to make sure the board is straight in the template. I say temporary so you can swap it out based on the size of boards you are making if you do a different size. Also, I would suggest drilling out the corners of the handle. Make a jig for the drill press so that you just flip the board over, drill both holes in the exact right spot, then you don't have to worry about the burning. Ideally, you would use the same drill bit for all 3 holes and make one jig to align everything. Someone else also mentioned using the bandsaw fence to make quick work of your offcuts and making sure your template is perfect. Extra time there, will prevent time on every board after. Just a couple ideas, hopefully, you find something useful! Good Luck!
what? you don't like to spend mounds of time sanding ?? :-) Just kidding. They look spectacular.
Great video
Would you happen to have a link for the router table used in this video?
Thanks
Carlos
Create a negative template to put the template in vertically. Drop the rough cutting board in and it self-aligns thanks to gravity. Close the clamps. Done. Should save time.
If your board stock is the same width then put sides on your tracing template for ease of setting it properly.
To speed up the bandsaw portion of cutting the handles, would stop blocks and edge guides help? This way you don’t have to worry about cutting too far and the cut lines would be straighter. Maybe do this for the jig as well to get better lines?
only thing i could see is to have a part stop for length of product. if you end up changing length, your stop could be a removable pin. that way you wouldn't be altering what you have very much and doesn't lock you in any way.
G'day from Australia you said it's not perfect now I make a lot of lazy susans and cutting boards and other stuff there not perfect but I think it's the imperfections that make it perfect
Izzy swan has a video on using a grabo pro and an acrylic template that looks like it’s exactly what you need
Hope it helps
try to find a cheap oscillating spindle sander , they do a great job on the edges and the handle. Will help with the burns from the router/shaper
Maybe try slowing down the cut speed of your router. Than it wouldn't burn as much
Get a plastic bucket and fill with mineral oil. Submerge and let drip dry.
Good! Router: Don't wait in the corner. Go faster. Burning needs heat ... friction and time 😎
Sorry I just didn’t understand the entire prepose for the jig... you just used it for the routing the handle
Make a dual router setup.. one with the pattern bit.. other one with the round over bit. Can even be on the same table.
That’s in the plan to set up! Limited space in this shop tho
@@jennieanddavis get another router and insert plate. Instead of changing bit and adjust height every time, you only need to set each one up once.
Slow your router down for the big bits. This will help with the burns.
It will also help your router bit last longer! Double win.
To reduce burning in the corners . Adjust your router spindle speed or your feed speed . It should not burn at all.
Make a template on the CNC. It’ll be about as perfect as you can get without post-processing.
Use the other side of the pattern slead as a corner round over with router bit while routing with pattern bit, not just handle side.
What types of wood do you guys use for charcuterie and chopping boards?
It seems that everyone is making cutting boards of some sort. A bit of a saturated market?
Rather than changing the bit in the router table why not use the round over bit in a handheld Palm router might be quiet than the table
To be frank….if I was in the market for a Charcuterie board I wouldn’t be looking for a “cookie” cutter board. I made one recently as a gift, it turned out well but I couldn’t possibly make the volume you are turning out but I think the $ value could be far more attractive. If you had 20 templates to mix it up a bit with a variety of woods, I think you could forget CNC and focus more on artful craft…..but I admire your resourcefulness
Charlie, we'd never try to sell you a board because you can make your own! Our customers aren't the least bit concerned with how it's made. They just want a nice board with their name on it.
Bits are expensive for a reason. Imagine manufacturing a high quality bit in small quantities, not cheap! Drill presses are produced in much larger batches using standardized machinery and materials and can as such be cheaper.
Sorry, "complaints" about things being expensive is one of my pet peeves :)
All the best!
Price is the LAST thing we complain about. We're big proponents of spending money wherever you need to and focusing your efforts on sales.
Why don't you use your CNC? Simply create your handle design in Fusion 360. Setup your CNC Table for that handle, lay your board in there and press the button. Rinse & Repeat
Believe it or not, that's slower than this method. Until we have a large industrial CnC with an optimized file to cut out 20+ at once, this is the fastest method!
If the boards are all the same dimensions, You don't need the clamps, just make a guide with a close fit. Or 2 o 3 if you handle different sizes. If you do need the clamps and have an air compressor, use a couple of pneumatic clamps. Place the board, press the pedal, route, press pedal, remove board. By the way, if you went CNC, you would still need to do this to hold the board down on the CNC table.
Also, have the templete cut on MDF by laser.
So you put your brand (literally) on 20 pieces that you know aren't up to snuff? That you state "aren't made from the best materials", and are selling for over 100 dollars? Or, if you are saying that you took the time to sand out imperfections from your template that could have been cut in (figuratively) no time to be perfect, and you are offering that as advice to other makers? Best of luck to ya.
Hey David. Thanks for taking the time out of your day to write this comment.
We agree on a lot of things about quality and materials, but that's not what our customers want to pay for. You can't be romantic about the hobby if you're trying to build a business.
Handles are two square you need to round them up some other than that they are really great love your videos
Have you started using vacuum templates yet?
tape multiple boards together when you cut them out at the bandsaw.
From one woodworkers to another God bless and keep up the good work really nice stuff you got there
Been eyeing that Whitside bit myself. Any noticeable wear after doing some batch work?
Not that we’ve noticed.
I am a drum restoration junkie. Once I was looking for a jig to cut snare beds. This works similar. Great idea. Thanks for posting.
Interesting! Hope it works!
The first glaring thing I see that can help with speed is you currently have two sides to your sled, but you don't have a back stop, if you make a longer sled and put a third "side" on the sled, you could just slide the board in and you wouldn't have to worry about checking for alignment on the front where the template portion is.
I agree, you just beat me to it. Having the third side (back or bottom, which ever you'd call it) would instantly align the boards as long as they were all the same size blanks. Nice job J/D!
The only thing I could see going wrong with that is, if the boards were different lengths it wouldn't line up with the handle template. They could use shoulder stops or a piece of plywood with blocks that they could butt the jig against and pop the piece in, but if the bandsaw work is inconsistent that might keep it from lining up correctly.
@@natoe33 that's an interesting point. I think the hard part of doing it this way is that you are also flush trimming the shoulders at the same time. I don't know if the boards are all one size or if they are doing multiple sizes, if it were me and I was doing multiple sizes I'd invest the hour or two to make multiple sleds personally.
try box wine and solo cups saving money
What if you get a metal Template made that the bearing of the router bit can ride on. This way it is reusable for a longer lifetime. The metal template can be water-jet cut or plasma cut?
That’s a good idea!
Using a cnc router to cut the handle or entire perimeter. Then you can setup enough fixtures where you change the blank as fast as it cuts. You could also use a shaper and template to cut multiple at once witout the power limitations of a router. May not make sense for a small production run but a shaper would be useful for more projects. Last thing, if the template has a stop pin for depth, the final result would be more consistent.
Multiple router setups will speed up your process!
A few things, but first... Jigs for the win! But to improve the jig and speed things up:
1) Have a cnc cut out the jig, out of a hardwood or laminate... Will last longer without deformation.
2) a smaller diameter bit for the router will let you skip the rough cut on the bandsaw, spiral up cut to clear out or even a compression bit to give clean edges and reduce sanding.
3) vertical handles on your jig will let you have better/safer control while pushing the thinner bit completely through the material (again without rough cutting) at a speed fast enough to not have any burn.
Love your guys' channel!
$175 chump change bit, please tell me that you were joking, so as I can continue to watch your videos, that remark to me sounded so belittling to other woodworkers who are less fortunate than your self's, one's that have families to think about first and can't afford expensive bits like that so called chump change bit, and then you have the cheek to ask your viewers to help you improve your business, by telling you how to improve on production time, god help you if you hit a low point in your business, but you have your jobs to fall back on, good luck and God bless, chump change really 😠
It's belittling to those looking to complain and make excuses. It's an inspiring mindset to those looking to improve their lives by selling their work.
The eye sees only what the mind is prepared to comprehend.
@@jennieanddavis
Typical from some one that can't take criticism, I was not complaining, hey now people see you for what you are, money money money, please don't any one give them any of your idea's, they for sure don't deserve any help at all,
Never thought about interior designers.