Whenever bending copper if you want it not to flatten, fill it with a median like sand. After is full of sand seal off each end, then wrap, then cut the seal and blow out the sand.
@@interesting7906 Depending principle you are looking for. - circular form is the worst volume to transmit the heat (but the best for liquid flow) - lowest ratio length/surface. - flat surface is the best. Needed compromise as long as water circulates.
Totally agree, but for the purpose of heat transfer, you'd want as much copper touching the flue as possible so by accident, he probably done a better job.
I did this today. Later i saw your video on th me same task. I cant blieve you were able to dk this with out kinking it. My first attempt at a turn was automatic kink. In the end i put the pipe the lake. Underwater i crimped it. So the pipe was full of water. Then i coiled it. Water cannot compess. For those out there trying to do this. Thanks kris
I have a friend who has a hot water furnace. He has it connected to his hot water heater. During the winter, he said that the relief valve goes off every now and then because it gets so hot. Put a vessel under it and you will be fine. Just keep it full of water to keep the cycle going. Your doing great, Mate.
From working with copper in jewelry, i learned that if you are wrapping copper tubing, fill it with sand. it is less likely to buckle on you and it'll allow enough room for the liquid in this to flow freely
Done the same only i filled the coil with water and froze it in the deep freeze. Worked great to prevent kinks. Enjoying the free showers. Great video cheers from Canada.
P.S. you probably already know this but the creosote(smoke) hits the single wall stovepipe and forms much quicker than if it was a triple stainless. Soooo, now that you've made that stretch of pipe even colder... more creosote will form. Just something to be aware of. Running a circular pipe cleaning brush down it, maybe twice a winter, will prevent chimney fires, which are very dangerous(personal experience). thanks again.
I remember with the old fireplace on a former home, the ash-collection pan in the back needed to be cleaned every week....Admittedly, is was bigger shove, but still. Hope you back's getting better.
trick is to fill the copper with water. let it freeze then bend it around the stack. won't flatten out like that. leave then ends open though so it don't split. looks good though.
i was going to do the freezing water thing but i had no reliable way of freezing it, i would have just had to hope it was freezing over night and then try and get it done in the morning before it warmed up.
Robert Bizzarro Works really well with sand if you can't feeze the water. Fill it with fine damp sand and then bend it around the pipe. Flush with water thoroughly to get all the sand out afterwards.
Robert Bizzarro - The copper pipe flattened out more because it's quite a large diameter for such a tight circumference around the pipe, should have used narrower gauge copper pipe.
+Kevin Byrne I will be very careful, I actually know of a guy who had his legs blown off and body scalded from a system just like this. Some dodgy plumber had blocked off the presume relief valve and it blew. I am very aware of the huge amount of energy and I will have at least two forms of safety and check there function regularly. Thanks for the concern, Kris
pressure relief valves are not are recommended in this situation. here we use open vented systems. so if pressure builds up it can escape through a pipe with a bishops shepherd's crook at the top. however you probably won't get the water to boil with a copper tube wrapped around the flue pipe. my guess is you will be lucky to get the water much more than 50 degrees. just my guess.
Love the explanation and noises describing how the water will go through the coils and heat up, made me lol 😂, very Rawley Birkin QC from the fast show 😂😂😂
a lil' tsp(trisodiumphosphate),in the fire coals,every once in a while will help with that creasote build up-hang a chain in the flu--you can slap it against the inside of the flu/like ringing a bell,..it will knock the dried creasote off the sides..just a lil time saver tip.....cool build man--i love it,the guys below are correct about,the copper tubing..those are ol' moonshiner tricks(and all they had was hard copper ,my great aunt sally ,used to use sand-lay copper in a long bed of coals,then rap around a stump..jda
if you have to burn soft woods,make sure it's well seasoned/dry,,,green oak will do the same,,but oak and hickory,ash and poplar only need to be semi dry//a lil' green wood makes the best coals(hardwoods)
The coil looks great. The slight flattening will probably make it more efficient as it will have more surface contact with the flue. I think it would have been murder to try bend it on your own if your have filled it with a material to keep it round. Good job!
i remember bending copper pipe around to make a way to cool my wort off making beer... you should get a home brew system going on in your off grid life!
beautiful work. pipe looks fine to me. slightly flattened like that allows for much more contact area rather than the small contact area of a round pipe.
Great video! If you put the tank a bit higher you will increase the flow and therefore heat transfer. Because now the highest point is a part of the pipe where the hot water is forced to go down. It works, but the flow is slower. The higher the tank the faster the flow. A perfect situation would be if the tank inlet would go in at the top from the side. Anyway, keep on doing what you doing ;)
super build ,you could have filled the pipe with dry sand or water then put stop ends on with when you bent it round pipe. don't think you've lost any internal space even though it's a little flat . excellent
Brilliant, phenolic or foil rockfall lagging would work. the coil wrapped flat is far better than being round... look at a Viessmann hex... For expansion I assume your going open vented? Solar prv and vessel would be perfect for this Now working out a design... thats for the inspiration 🙌
oh no kris ! now I have another subscription on youtube, ev's are right up my alley, im currently tinkering with 18650 cells. looking fwd to binging on your other channel.
My wife and I love your videos, and just caught up. We look forward to seeing what is to come! We are really impressed by your ingenuity - and we hope to do something like this ourselves in a few years. Thanks for the inspiration!
Kris" you need to place a shield in back of that stove!!!! After all that work you did to build that home, .... the stove uIs to close to the sink and the log wall!please think about putting a shield back there!!!!! Also, buy a flexible cloths dryer vent cleaning kit to run up the pipe to keep it clean!!!!! God bless!!!!
He likely won't have to cover it, as long as there is water in the system and it's flowing. That copper tubing will act as a heatsink. It will never get hotter than the water that is in the system, same way you can hold a water balloon over a candle and it won't pop(IE the water absorbs the energy and stores it). The only way for the copper to get hotter than the water is if he manages to boil the entire tank, which is unlikely with that much water. Due to the energy/heat loss from the reservoir and the inefficiencies of the tube itself, it should keep the copper tubing from ever getting hot enough to burn anything.
You are doing a great job mate, not sure if its a right suggestion, as you might would have thought about it already. The tank would be better stacked up against the wall to the similar height where the hot water inlet pipe is, for a better flow in the kitchen sink and the tub I guess, instead it being on top of the work top which will provide more free room. And for insulation i would think of some kind of a glass box sort of thing to maintain the look of copper coil going around.
I have a feeling this will lower your flue temperature further, so you might have to run a really hot fire (dry, well seasoned wood) to help prevent the creosote buildup. Not sure what species you have available to burn in Wales, I'm from Northern Ontario, Canada, but here hard maple is the premium stove wood, cut one year burn the next, Oak has the same BTU but requires to years of being split and piled and covered to properly season. Aspen/poplar burn really clean but only has about 60% of the BTU's of hard Maple and oak, it is better with a 2 year drying time as well. Beech is very good as well. Birch is awful for creosote, plugs the chimney in no time, split if fine and burn hot! Best of luck, can't wait to see how well this works!! Keep up the hard work.
yes i think you might be right about the cooling, i burn a mix of woods, oak, alder, ash, willow, hazzle, larch, i will just have to keep an eye on things. lots of the stuff i am doing is quite unconventional so i just have to keep an eye on things until i am sure it is all safe.
I like to like out of the box myself. As long as your careful and keep check all is well. Cookie cutter thinking doesn't leave much room for creativity or invention!
For all the sand comments , imagine how long it would take to fill that coil of pipe and he has increased th3 surface area of his pipe and slowed down the flow of water which makes it a perfect exchanger .
When you build your earth ship a small wood stove is all you need combined with solar hat water panels. Get a chimney temperature gage if you are not used to running a wood stove it will help you keep it at the best combustion zone.
if you left the copper tube uninsulated nothing bad would happen. also probably this works with no pump, hot water raises naturally... i consider same for my sauna hot tube. there could be helpfull reverse thermostat so if chimney is cold, no water gets cooled...
to be honest im thinking that i might have to much copper anyway. so heat wont be a problem. im working on getting it all working at the moment and i will have a video up soon.
the problem isee with no insolation is if he left and the tubes were pressurized with water and with no heat source then ice builds up expands and you get broken water lines. I am a bit drunk but he explains it like a closed system and you need water inlet and store it he didn't never mind I might watch it later and see what he is thinking
To increase the siphon effect, the coil should be as low as possible compare to the water tank. Since hot water wanna rise, if the tank is the highest point, the siphon won't work.
I think what I would do is have larger pipe in an enclosure round the chimney pipe, that way the pipe is kept hot but the water is still warmed in the enclosure, then I would just pump that to some radiators (with an expansion tank). Hot water I would boil on top of the stove.
hi chris love ur videos and admire what ur doing but i agree with the spare wheel, you are actualy creating a bomb. your hot water will just get hotter and hotter until something as to give
a bomb is a bomb because the expanding gasses cant escape. as long as the pressure relief valve is working it isnt a bomb its a pressure vessel. if during experiments it get to hot i will change the design but i believe this will work. thanks for the comment Reply ·
I did a similar fitting on a house boat a few years ago, I thought the flattened pipe was going to cause problems, but in reality the water got hotter quicker because of the increased surface area. One thing I did learn was to put the tank outside (insulated and in its own house) with the fittings outside as well because one of my compression fittings on the copper spiral blew off with the pressure and sprayed boiling water everywhere, and there was no way to stop it quick enough (I only needed the one lesson to learn). My final version had the ends of the spiral going through the wall and I fitted another pressure relief valve and a shut off valve on the bottom feed.
idk if flat is what you were going for but if you need to bend any pipe - fill it with sand and cap the ends and it can't flatten out that much when you bend it
Saw another gent he put an 8 inch pipe around the copper pipe so that you would get the cooler air from the floor and exaust the heat up high heating more air he used a 90 degree off the stove went up with the 8 inch around the copper then atached the 6 inch to the pipe going though the roof .
your problem with slow water heat up, the old time plumbers used to fit up to 1 inch pipes to promote flow and nice gentle slopes plus no dips to create air locks. try findiing Granada tv series by brian trueman house of the future he stiffend his windmill pale with 2 cables from top to bottom with 2 ropes from pole just like bow and arrow this stoped the whip A fascinating programme
Did you think about using sand in the pipe to stop it from kinking ? The only difficult part is making sure it is dry so it will flow out easy I have done it with success. also small stove use the hardest wood you can find Oak, Hickory, ect they won't ash up as much..You have done Great, I admire what you have done..
It didn't fully kink all the way closed, and will still pass enough water. The flatter surface will give better surface contact for more heat transfer.
so i was wondering what you have used as insulation in or under the flooring? i remember you spoke about it in the beginning of this adventure but i havent seen anything been made. i my self is thinking of a similary build but cause i live in sweden and have a colder climate during wintertime i have a bigger problem with handling the cold, iknow that you britts generally have very cold floors but still. best regards Markus
It is easy to say after you have done it, but you should have had some play pit sand, dried it in the oven then fill the tube to make it solid and then it will not flatten or kink.
I saw you're 'why off grid' video and you mentioned you watched a documentary that talked about the money system - was that the zeitgeist? And have you seen zeitgeist - addendum, the second movie? It focuses more on how to fix things, especially towards the end and I think it might inspire your project. Btw I think what you're doing is absolutely awesome.
Love your videos! But what did you do to that chimney? How could it clog up like that? Firewood needs to be dry or you stink up the whole neighbourhood with PM2.5 particles.
Can't imagine the pipe wrap would have too much effect on the temperature inside the flue, as a relatively small amount of heat will transfer to the copper pipe....?
Whenever bending copper if you want it not to flatten, fill it with a median like sand. After is full of sand seal off each end, then wrap, then cut the seal and blow out the sand.
It needs to flatten to make contact
@@rogerandlyndabeall3840 Nope you don't want it flat. It restricts the flow and the Ca deposits will clog that pipe up in no time.
@@interesting7906 Depending principle you are looking for.
- circular form is the worst volume to transmit the heat (but the best for liquid flow) - lowest ratio length/surface.
- flat surface is the best.
Needed compromise as long as water circulates.
Totally agree, but for the purpose of heat transfer, you'd want as much copper touching the flue as possible so by accident, he probably done a better job.
You fill it halfway, so it doesn't completely flatten but takes an oval shape instead?
thanks Kris. Me and my pooch, Eustace, appreciate your time, effort, and high standards.
I did this today. Later i saw your video on th me same task. I cant blieve you were able to dk this with out kinking it. My first attempt at a turn was automatic kink. In the end i put the pipe the lake. Underwater i crimped it. So the pipe was full of water. Then i coiled it. Water cannot compess. For those out there trying to do this. Thanks kris
the world need more people like you and your lady!
I have a friend who has a hot water furnace. He has it connected to his hot water heater. During the winter, he said that the relief valve goes off every now and then because it gets so hot. Put a vessel under it and you will be fine. Just keep it full of water to keep the cycle going. Your doing great, Mate.
From working with copper in jewelry, i learned that if you are wrapping copper tubing, fill it with sand. it is less likely to buckle on you and it'll allow enough room for the liquid in this to flow freely
Done the same only i filled the coil with water and froze it in the deep freeze. Worked great to prevent kinks. Enjoying the free showers. Great video cheers from Canada.
Everything is looking great. Can't wait to see the bath area. Thanks for sharing. Blessings
You did a beautiful job wrap the copper around that pipe. I would definitely wrap the copper pipe with Insulation
P.S. you probably already know this but the creosote(smoke) hits the single wall stovepipe and forms much quicker than if it was a triple stainless. Soooo, now that you've made that stretch of pipe even colder... more creosote will form. Just something to be aware of. Running a circular pipe cleaning brush down it, maybe twice a winter, will prevent chimney fires, which are very dangerous(personal experience). thanks again.
I remember with the old fireplace on a former home, the ash-collection pan in the back needed to be cleaned every week....Admittedly, is was bigger shove, but still.
Hope you back's getting better.
trick is to fill the copper with water. let it freeze then bend it around the stack. won't flatten out like that. leave then ends open though so it don't split. looks good though.
i was going to do the freezing water thing but i had no reliable way of freezing it, i would have just had to hope it was freezing over night and then try and get it done in the morning before it warmed up.
Robert Bizzarro
Works really well with sand if you can't feeze the water. Fill it with fine damp sand and then bend it around the pipe. Flush with water thoroughly to get all the sand out afterwards.
Sand work as well BUT, you have to be patient removing the sand by tapping the tubing and letting the sand run out.
Cheers
Robert Bizzarro - The copper pipe flattened out more because it's quite a large diameter for such a tight circumference around the pipe, should have used narrower gauge copper pipe.
www.copper.org/publications/pub_list/pdf/copper_tube_handbook.pdf
Pg. 42
Nice job!! Just be careful hot water and pressure. But I'm sure you will safe!! Keep up with the good work
+Kevin Byrne I will be very careful, I actually know of a guy who had his legs blown off and body scalded from a system just like this. Some dodgy plumber had blocked off the presume relief valve and it blew. I am very aware of the huge amount of energy and I will have at least two forms of safety and check there function regularly. Thanks for the concern, Kris
Better to have at least two pressure relief valves in a system like this.
pressure relief valves are not are recommended in this situation. here we use open vented systems. so if pressure builds up it can escape through a pipe with a bishops shepherd's crook at the top. however you probably won't get the water to boil with a copper tube wrapped around the flue pipe. my guess is you will be lucky to get the water much more than 50 degrees. just my guess.
Love the explanation and noises describing how the water will go through the coils and heat up, made me lol 😂, very Rawley Birkin QC from the fast show 😂😂😂
Wow, that looks awesome!
Such a shame to have to cover it up. That copper wrap is absolutely beautiful and goes so well with the look of the cabin. Great job, great videos.
Good show I once had a similar system, I used a circulating pump to help with the flow of hot water
a lil' tsp(trisodiumphosphate),in the fire coals,every once in a while will help with that creasote build up-hang a chain in the flu--you can slap it against the inside of the flu/like ringing a bell,..it will knock the dried creasote off the sides..just a lil time saver tip.....cool build man--i love it,the guys below are correct about,the copper tubing..those are ol' moonshiner tricks(and all they had was hard copper ,my great aunt sally ,used to use sand-lay copper in a long bed of coals,then rap around a stump..jda
if you have to burn soft woods,make sure it's well seasoned/dry,,,green oak will do the same,,but oak and hickory,ash and poplar only need to be semi dry//a lil' green wood makes the best coals(hardwoods)
The coil looks great. The slight flattening will probably make it more efficient as it will have more surface contact with the flue. I think it would have been murder to try bend it on your own if your have filled it with a material to keep it round. Good job!
i remember bending copper pipe around to make a way to cool my wort off making beer... you should get a home brew system going on in your off grid life!
Love love your cabin. Can't wait for next video.
beautiful work. pipe looks fine to me. slightly flattened like that allows for much more contact area rather than the small contact area of a round pipe.
Great video! If you put the tank a bit higher you will increase the flow and therefore heat transfer. Because now the highest point is a part of the pipe where the hot water is forced to go down. It works, but the flow is slower. The higher the tank the faster the flow. A perfect situation would be if the tank inlet would go in at the top from the side. Anyway, keep on doing what you doing ;)
Awesome! You should give us a tour vid soon! Well done, I enjoy each video.
super build ,you could have filled the pipe with dry sand or water then put stop ends on with when you bent it round pipe. don't think you've lost any internal space even though it's a little flat . excellent
You need a chimney brush. Go up occasionally (every two weeks) brush the flue. put a bucket under the pipe to catch the ash.
yeah i will try and pick one up at some point. thanks for the comment
Love this Kris! I'm learning loads from you and from the comments section. Thanks! Your going to have such a lovely time living there :)
Brilliant, phenolic or foil rockfall lagging would work. the coil wrapped flat is far better than being round... look at a Viessmann hex...
For expansion I assume your going open vented? Solar prv and vessel would be perfect for this
Now working out a design... thats for the inspiration 🙌
Better seasoned wood would give you less sooting. Great vids. Looking forward to the next one.
oh no kris ! now I have another subscription on youtube, ev's are right up my alley, im currently tinkering with 18650 cells. looking fwd to binging on your other channel.
love the videos and the round house . well done !!
You have done a good job. You will need to wrap the copper pipes in a terminal rap. This will make a massive difference.
Really cool but quite a workout!! Love your vids.
Great job mate see ya in the next video !!
My wife and I love your videos, and just caught up. We look forward to seeing what is to come! We are really impressed by your ingenuity - and we hope to do something like this ourselves in a few years. Thanks for the inspiration!
I'm glad i went to the end of the video to see that; once again, we have an unfinished project cliffhanger.
That is a fantastic/brilliant idea! Looks great too! I'm anxious to see how it works once you get it up and running!
Kris" you need to place a shield in back of that stove!!!! After all that work you did to build that home, .... the stove uIs to close to the sink and the log wall!please think about putting a shield back there!!!!! Also, buy a flexible cloths dryer vent cleaning kit to run up the pipe to keep it clean!!!!! God bless!!!!
Looks proper tidy that mate well done.
Great job wrapping the copper! it really is a shame you have to cover it up, it looks awesome!
He likely won't have to cover it, as long as there is water in the system and it's flowing. That copper tubing will act as a heatsink. It will never get hotter than the water that is in the system, same way you can hold a water balloon over a candle and it won't pop(IE the water absorbs the energy and stores it). The only way for the copper to get hotter than the water is if he manages to boil the entire tank, which is unlikely with that much water. Due to the energy/heat loss from the reservoir and the inefficiencies of the tube itself, it should keep the copper tubing from ever getting hot enough to burn anything.
Proper stuff bud, great job 🖒
Even tho it flattened out it looks amazing, actually like you said it gets more surface area. As usual great video brother
I also heard you can use frozen water in pipe. To keep round.😅
You are an inspiration
Wow that copper looks really great. Too bad if you have to insulate over it.
You are doing a great job mate, not sure if its a right suggestion, as you might would have thought about it already.
The tank would be better stacked up against the wall to the similar height where the hot water inlet pipe is, for a better flow in the kitchen sink and the tub I guess, instead it being on top of the work top which will provide more free room.
And for insulation i would think of some kind of a glass box sort of thing to maintain the look of copper coil going around.
the pressure in the system comes from the header tank by the spring up the hill not from the hight of the tank, it will have 5 psi of pressure
Kool
you can also anneal it with heat before wrapping and it will bend easier.
Awesome,Car/Motorbike exhaust wrap may look good and insulate,..id try without first as the copper looks noce! :))
I have a feeling this will lower your flue temperature further, so you might have to run a really hot fire (dry, well seasoned wood) to help prevent the creosote buildup. Not sure what species you have available to burn in Wales, I'm from Northern Ontario, Canada, but here hard maple is the premium stove wood, cut one year burn the next, Oak has the same BTU but requires to years of being split and piled and covered to properly season. Aspen/poplar burn really clean but only has about 60% of the BTU's of hard Maple and oak, it is better with a 2 year drying time as well. Beech is very good as well. Birch is awful for creosote, plugs the chimney in no time, split if fine and burn hot! Best of luck, can't wait to see how well this works!! Keep up the hard work.
yes i think you might be right about the cooling, i burn a mix of woods, oak, alder, ash, willow, hazzle, larch, i will just have to keep an eye on things. lots of the stuff i am doing is quite unconventional so i just have to keep an eye on things until i am sure it is all safe.
I like to like out of the box myself. As long as your careful and keep check all is well. Cookie cutter thinking doesn't leave much room for creativity or invention!
I like your vids!
great vids been with your channel for a while.
For all the sand comments , imagine how long it would take to fill that coil of pipe and he has increased th3 surface area of his pipe and slowed down the flow of water which makes it a perfect exchanger .
what was the diameter of the copper pipe? what was the grade of the soft copper?
Well Done!
What diameter tubing did you use? Thank you
What size is the copper pipe that you used? I plan on doing this with my wood cook stove.
wrap it in rock wool ... then sheet that in copper ... then you get the insulation and the copper look on the pipe as well
When you build your earth ship a small wood stove is all you need combined with solar hat water panels. Get a chimney temperature gage if you are not used to running a wood stove it will help you keep it at the best combustion zone.
if you left the copper tube uninsulated nothing bad would happen.
also probably this works with no pump, hot water raises naturally...
i consider same for my sauna hot tube.
there could be helpfull reverse thermostat so if chimney is cold, no water gets cooled...
Marti LPG insulation will make it that little bit more efficient so I think it's worth it
Marti LPG jnr
to be honest im thinking that i might have to much copper anyway. so heat wont be a problem. im working on getting it all working at the moment and i will have a video up soon.
the problem isee with no insolation is if he left and the tubes were pressurized with water and with no heat source then ice builds up expands and you get broken water lines. I am a bit drunk but he explains it like a closed system and you need water inlet and store it he didn't never mind I might watch it later and see what he is thinking
To increase the siphon effect, the coil should be as low as possible compare to the water tank.
Since hot water wanna rise, if the tank is the highest point, the siphon won't work.
That’s an amazing technique
It's a giant tea kettle, lol. A whistle would be cool eh.
very nice tight wrap should work fine for ya.
You can also mount a old hot water tank on back of stove it will do two things
Heat water plus add extra hear to your
Home
Well it looks cool
Excellent top man
I think what I would do is have larger pipe in an enclosure round the chimney pipe, that way the pipe is kept hot but the water is still warmed in the enclosure, then I would just pump that to some radiators (with an expansion tank). Hot water I would boil on top of the stove.
Kris! How's this performed after 4 years!?
did you do a part two, to show the rest of the design working out?
Fill tubing full of sand and solder caps on the ends then roll bend it it wont collapse then.
this is nice idea
hi chris
love ur videos and admire what ur doing but i agree with the spare wheel, you are actualy creating a bomb. your hot water will just get hotter and hotter until something as to give
a bomb is a bomb because the expanding gasses cant escape. as long as the pressure relief valve is working it isnt a bomb its a pressure vessel. if during experiments it get to hot i will change the design but i believe this will work. thanks for the comment
Reply ·
if in testing it does not look safe i will change it for sure, i am aware of the potential dangers.
I did a similar fitting on a house boat a few years ago, I thought the flattened pipe was going to cause problems, but in reality the water got hotter quicker because of the increased surface area.
One thing I did learn was to put the tank outside (insulated and in its own house) with the fittings outside as well because one of my compression fittings on the copper spiral blew off with the pressure and sprayed boiling water everywhere, and there was no way to stop it quick enough (I only needed the one lesson to learn).
My final version had the ends of the spiral going through the wall and I fitted another pressure relief valve and a shut off valve on the bottom feed.
Now wrap it with insulation it will heat water much quicker 👍
just spotted the air filter on the garden tractor, +10 hp lol!
Good job. You should have put sand in the cooper pipe, then you could have bent it and it would have kept it's shape. I think.
Don’t forget to sweep ya chimney. 😉
idk if flat is what you were going for but if you need to bend any pipe - fill it with sand and cap the ends and it can't flatten out that much when you bend it
Saw another gent he put an 8 inch pipe around the copper pipe so that you would get the cooler air from the floor and exaust the heat up high heating more air he used a 90 degree off the stove went up with the 8 inch around the copper then atached the 6 inch to the pipe going though the roof .
Art.
Doesnt the contact of copper and iron makes iron to rott?
Chris, a pipe bending break is not an expensive tool. I believe they come in several sizes for the pipe you need to bend. No kinks, nonlesks.
Leaks
your problem with slow water heat up, the old time plumbers used to fit up to 1 inch pipes to promote flow and nice gentle slopes plus no dips to create air locks. try findiing Granada tv series by brian trueman house of the future he stiffend his windmill pale with 2 cables from top to bottom with 2 ropes from pole just like bow and arrow this stoped the whip A fascinating programme
Did you think about using sand in the pipe to stop it from kinking ? The only difficult part is making sure it is dry so it will flow out easy I have done it with success. also small stove use the hardest wood you can find Oak, Hickory, ect they won't ash up as much..You have done Great, I admire what you have done..
It didn't fully kink all the way closed, and will still pass enough water. The flatter surface will give better surface contact for more heat transfer.
7 years on. how has it done?
Looking at that flue, you need a Rocket Mass heater !
so i was wondering what you have used as insulation in or under the flooring? i remember you spoke about it in the beginning of this adventure but i havent seen anything been made. i my self is thinking of a similary build but cause i live in sweden and have a colder climate during wintertime i have a bigger problem with handling the cold, iknow that you britts generally have very cold floors but still.
best regards
Markus
Is it a double-walled chimney or a single walled?
It is easy to say after you have done it, but you should have had some play pit sand, dried it in the oven then fill the tube to make it solid and then it will not flatten or kink.
Hi Kris,
What size is that copper pipe? Great video.
I see guis fill it with water and freze it so it wount kink. but I think that the flat pipe will work better.
make big fire, throw copper pipe into fire, heat red hot, then dump copper pipe in water, copper now soft bend with 2 fingers !
Hey Kris, is that where you are putting the tank, or are you moving it?
no that is where it is going, there isnt really anywhere to move it to. so i will just hide it with some nice wood and just have an access door.
I saw you're 'why off grid' video and you mentioned you watched a documentary that talked about the money system - was that the zeitgeist? And have you seen zeitgeist - addendum, the second movie? It focuses more on how to fix things, especially towards the end and I think it might inspire your project. Btw I think what you're doing is absolutely awesome.
yes it was zeitgeist. that is a great doc. another good watch is "confessions of an economic hitman"
Bet you got that pipe cleaned out pretty good, what with all that rolling on the pole! :)
Love your videos!
But what did you do to that chimney? How could it clog up like that? Firewood needs to be dry or you stink up the whole neighbourhood with PM2.5 particles.
How can someone so smart work so hard?? Next time use a hand torch and heat the coppwr tube
maybe before you finish the plumbing connections just put a pail of water with a piece of hose going to the pipe and run the stove to test it
What happens if the water boils?
was it 22mm pipe?
cooling the chimney will INCREASE carbon deposits massively, pls clean regularly or chimney fire coming your way. b ut well done chap.
Can't imagine the pipe wrap would have too much effect on the temperature inside the flue, as a relatively small amount of heat will transfer to the copper pipe....?