Just installed ThunderMax over the weekend, took it out for about 60 miles, seems to be running great, how long should I wait to auto tune? Or will it tune itself?
Hey Chris,can u suggest a set of base line maps for for this set up for 2014 Street Glide. Screamin' Eagle Twin Cam Tire Shredder Kit - 103CI to 110CI SE 4.0" bolt-on cylinders, forged 10.2:1 high compression pistons , SE 58mm throttle body, high flow fuel injectors, SE CNC-ported cylinder heads, SE-259 cams, perfect-fit pushrods, SE high-capacity roller tappets, True dual rinehart & Arlen ness big sucker...Just purchased T/M tuner & would like to have your option...Thx
hey man, im pretty new to the thundermax software. my bike is hard to start when it its cold like its getting way to much fuel off the bat. i noticed when i uploaded my map to the thundermax, the fuel pump runs for probably double the time it should before i actually start the bike. just wondering if there is an easy fix? ive messed with pretty much all the basic settings and nothing seems to cut back the initial fuel pulse.
I thought the point of TM is to always autotune as you ride. Why do you need to hook up a computer and write the auto tune? Does this mean if I were to remove the battery I would loose the autotune?
GoofyRyder HD the TM is an aftermarket, replacement ecm. Harley has a proprietary system for their ecms. This is why you have to take it to them to tune. Or use to. The TM must be set up to run your bike, then you run the bike with the “auto tune” on. It looks at your air, fuel, throttle position, engine load, temperature, humidity, everything. And knowing the predetermined ideal air fuel mixture. It corrects all the values to make the bike run in those parameters. Then you flash that onto the ecm. This is an open loop system. It is unlimited in its reach but can’t apply the changes to the bike and write them at the same time. A closed loop system will read exhaust gas (o2 sensors) and fuel and will tell the ecm what to change, to get the a/f correct. Which seems better. But with an OEM closed loop system they have narrow band o2 sensors. Sonthey can only read a small area of air to fuel mixture. An open loop wide band system can see and control a lot more. But it’s can’t write and correct at the same time. as where an OEM closed loop can adjust in the fly to the bike but much less precise. Now these are also opposite ends of the spectrum. You might like the power vision tuner basically does what the TM does. But you can’t control the ecm the way you can a TM. The power vision is a good daily bike tuner. The TM is a good race bike ECM or something like that.
@@thomasmarchese2808 You're wrong, the green points are the corrections that it made while you were riding, when you do the auto tune that he showed it simply updates the map to the corrected points so you can save it for future use, also the system is only able to correct the loaded map by 10% at the most, so by auto tuning your resetting the map points to "0" so it can move them more if it has to. And it is a closed loop system, it does as I explained adjust to the AFR targets as you ride, one again auto mapping just resets those points, or re-zero's them if you will, then if any of the AFR points had hit their 10% limit it can continue to move them by doing more riding and then auto tuning again. After 3 or 4, 25 mile rides you do an auto tune, then do it again, after doing the process several times you'll see that it won't move any of the points anymore, at that point it's 100% at the point that your particular engine and combination of parts (ie cams, exhaust, heads, air cleaner etc.) are hitting the AFR ratio targets that either that map calls for or if you customized the AFR points yourself. But once again it is closed loop (although you can turn that feature off). It's a great system, I've been running one on my 05 Ultra for 3 years and I have it at the point where I get 47 MPG with a passenger at sustained 75 MPH with a 3" taller than stock windshield, I haven't spoken to anyone else or even seen anyone on the internet post that kind of mileage, not at 75 MPH sustained. The only real beef I have with it is the instructions on how to set up and use the system, they could have done a better job of explaining everything in the manual instead of wording everything as though the end user was someone who was involved with developing the system.
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Just installed ThunderMax over the weekend, took it out for about 60 miles, seems to be running great, how long should I wait to auto tune? Or will it tune itself?
On minute 2:15 you talk about this feature but on my pc that area is yellow and it says "N/A for this firmware", do I have the wrong THmax?
Hey Chris,can u suggest a set of base line maps for for this set up for 2014 Street Glide.
Screamin' Eagle Twin Cam Tire Shredder Kit - 103CI to 110CI
SE 4.0" bolt-on cylinders, forged 10.2:1 high compression pistons , SE 58mm throttle body, high flow fuel injectors, SE CNC-ported cylinder heads, SE-259 cams, perfect-fit pushrods, SE high-capacity roller tappets,
True dual rinehart & Arlen ness big sucker...Just purchased T/M tuner & would like to have your option...Thx
With a new program should I let the autotune run for a couple weeks before I play with any timing adjustments?
What about timing?
I know I’m alittle late but I have a 103 , with a thundermaxx tuner , will that change the top speed of my motorcycle or is it unchangeable?
Yes it will , no more speed gov and no more falling off at the end of rpm range
hey man, im pretty new to the thundermax software. my bike is hard to start when it its cold like its getting way to much fuel off the bat. i noticed when i uploaded my map to the thundermax, the fuel pump runs for probably double the time it should before i actually start the bike. just wondering if there is an easy fix? ive messed with pretty much all the basic settings and nothing seems to cut back the initial fuel pulse.
Candle maybe?
I thought the point of TM is to always autotune as you ride. Why do you need to hook up a computer and write the auto tune? Does this mean if I were to remove the battery I would loose the autotune?
GoofyRyder HD the TM is an aftermarket, replacement ecm. Harley has a proprietary system for their ecms. This is why you have to take it to them to tune. Or use to. The TM must be set up to run your bike, then you run the bike with the “auto tune” on. It looks at your air, fuel, throttle position, engine load, temperature, humidity, everything. And knowing the predetermined ideal air fuel mixture. It corrects all the values to make the bike run in those parameters. Then you flash that onto the ecm. This is an open loop system. It is unlimited in its reach but can’t apply the changes to the bike and write them at the same time. A closed loop system will read exhaust gas (o2 sensors) and fuel and will tell the ecm what to change, to get the a/f correct. Which seems better. But with an OEM closed loop system they have narrow band o2 sensors. Sonthey can only read a small area of air to fuel mixture. An open loop wide band system can see and control a lot more. But it’s can’t write and correct at the same time. as where an OEM closed loop can adjust in the fly to the bike but much less precise. Now these are also opposite ends of the spectrum. You might like the power vision tuner basically does what the TM does. But you can’t control the ecm the way you can a TM. The power vision is a good daily bike tuner. The TM is a good race bike ECM or something like that.
@@thomasmarchese2808
You're wrong, the green points are the corrections that it made while you were riding, when you do the auto tune that he showed it simply updates the map to the corrected points so you can save it for future use, also the system is only able to correct the loaded map by 10% at the most, so by auto tuning your resetting the map points to "0" so it can move them more if it has to.
And it is a closed loop system, it does as I explained adjust to the AFR targets as you ride, one again auto mapping just resets those points, or re-zero's them if you will, then if any of the AFR points had hit their 10% limit it can continue to move them by doing more riding and then auto tuning again.
After 3 or 4, 25 mile rides you do an auto tune, then do it again, after doing the process several times you'll see that it won't move any of the points anymore, at that point it's 100% at the point that your particular engine and combination of parts (ie cams, exhaust, heads, air cleaner etc.) are hitting the AFR ratio targets that either that map calls for or if you customized the AFR points yourself.
But once again it is closed loop (although you can turn that feature off).
It's a great system, I've been running one on my 05 Ultra for 3 years and I have it at the point where I get 47 MPG with a passenger at sustained 75 MPH with a 3" taller than stock windshield, I haven't spoken to anyone else or even seen anyone on the internet post that kind of mileage, not at 75 MPH sustained.
The only real beef I have with it is the instructions on how to set up and use the system, they could have done a better job of explaining everything in the manual instead of wording everything as though the end user was someone who was involved with developing the system.
Great info@@dukecraig2402 , just installed mine, instructions still suck, but got through it.
My Afr is always in the yelloe
Wish m8ne loaded that fast I spend hours waiting , wtf is wrong with it
Mine loads pretty fast. Are you using a laptop? I would try a different cable or reinstall the drivers (might be a bug)