This is most useful when repainting walls that have been around for a while. The skim coat can hide surface flaws that have accumulated over the years, making the surface look brand new.
Oh my Gosh! This legit changed the way I have looked at patching drywall by 1000 percent. I'm a home DIYer. I recently installed surround sound in my living room by opening the walls up with a flexible 4 foot drill bit and is g Ryobi Drywall patches. I've been stressing over the patched areas flat and uniform again before painting. I cannot thank you enough for making this video and completely changing my way forward! THANKS!
Thank you Dominic for posting, well worth the time to prep the walls properly.. I have on occasion done exactly that to have that look for the paint finish.
Wow that's slick. I noticed that thing on the bright glossy walls and was doing the regular mud by hand and then sanding the entire wall in order to get that consistency where you can't tell the joints at all.
Askmediy: You have THE best drywalling videos. Retired Air Force here hanging out at Lowe's for something to do. Doing drywall at my house (we have a total fixer upper) makes me go mental, but your videos help me get it all sorted out. Wish I was at the pro skill level, I think I would love it then. I'll be doing this on one of our bathrooms since we over-sanded some of the paper. I think this will solve the issue.
I use a skim coat on all of my work, but I've never done this before. I mostly resurface old plaster walls and older textured drywall. Mostly uneven substrate. 2 top coats and the same on all new work (level 6?) to match it up. On a good day all I need to finish is a sanding sponge to straighten out a few blemishes.
I never do level 5. On occasion I will do level 4 when there is a lot of lighting, but the normal standard here on the east coast is tape, then block coat, then skim coat. After prime then point up where needed.
Wow, I guess that is one option/technique. Across the water in The Netherlands, we plaster or finish the wall with Knauf MP75 gypsum, either spray or by hand, and go through a process of polishing and smoothing as it drys. Minimal dust and no sanding required. It's so smooth and straight you can literally see yourself in the wall and MP75 is really hard wearing plaster suitable for commercial buildings or homes. Now at least I understand what a North American guy, living in Amsterdam at the time, was trying to explain to me how he plastered a wall, sanded it smooth and had dust everywhere :)
For 34 years as a professional Painter and Decorator, i bond my drywall with a PVA mix prior to applying paint. Lovely smooth and consistant finish, just my opinion.
Good Video Dom ..The Principal Issue of Skimming is covered Sealing the surface texture. I use my wide trowel for skimming walls. Yes commercial and residential projects that present an abundant of lighting will show flaws especially on fresh drywall which tends to absorb primer paint differently in various rooms effected by temperature and lighting. I agree this skimming process is a great insurance for sealing the drywall surface supported by a good primer sealer which is a key factor in improving or achieving a texture smooth finish. Thanks
I used this method over some patches and it works perfect to blend it all in. I just use a paper plate and some mud with a dab of dishsoap and some water to make it very light weight before I roll it on with a small roller.
Holy crap I did drywall taping and finishing for 24 years and finally wised up and became an electrician...I hope your getting paid alot of money for that finish..California we would just put on a light hand texture...but. To each their own...
Been doing drywall for long time. A crew I worked with sprayed the drywall with water then used squeegees to wipe it down. If you raise the nap on the drywall you can hand spounge it down. Painters dont do their job right for the most part. Yes good primer and sand. Most people dont know it but when you primer you only have so many hours to apply the paint so it bonds. Otherwise its a must sand before paint. You should sand the primer painters.
I worked in the Drywall trade for quite a few years and never knew of an architect to spec this. The best tape job will show joints depending on the lighting. The trick is good tape job, quality primer and FLAT paint. Any type of gloss paint will reflect light off the sheetrock paper differently than off the compound.
Great videos Dom as usual. Just throw a thin skim over all the bare drywall after tapped and screw holes filled. Two coats of primer. Game set and match. Next.
There is a recent article in Fine Homebuilding that says another way to achieve a Level 5 finish is to spray the walls with a primer/surfacer instead of the skim coating.
Jed Morton the skim coating you do at level 4 then to achieve a level 5 you either skim again or do the surfacing with the spray method which you do have to spray couple of times. either way works
I’ve been a drywall finisher for 38 years this is a good process to do for an apprentice first off I never use the sanding pole we call that an idiot stick if I’m doing this smooth finish I use sponge on all my joints and lap marks second of all I covered the entire wall with 1/8 of mod with my 18 inch knife this way I can lay off very smooth with you let marks I come back the next day to take a small sanding block fine finish and take out any of the little thick laps but the rest of them are use the sponge on just the swirl in the walls come out
Good commercial guys around here will do this in high end tenant improvements but they'll put the final coat on with an airless paint sprayer. Works great.
This is great! I am working on re-doing my garage right now. The last homeowner did kind of a hack job on the tape/mud, and it all cracked, split, and popped out in many spots. Then they did kind of a weird paint job- only as far as they could reach (no ladder or extension pole???). Anyway, I plan on using a glossier paint out there, this will help mask over the transitions! Keep the videos coming, I love your channel!
I am a care home owner in Ireland, on our last new build we used LED lighting, that bright light shows up all the shadows that you talked about on the dry wall.. it looks wild bad..
I simply sprayed RuCoat 10 mils thick with a .516 tip as recommended by the manufacturer, sanded, primed, and painted as usual. Its advisable to back roll if needed, but I didn't see the need. It worked great and it is fast as it can get. 👍
Thanks for the information, it's great! Also I want to thank you for using high quality audio on your video. So many have very poor quality sound. Thanks.
Thanks for the great vid, I am likely to do this on my ceiling but with 'Gyprock® Final Finish Topping Compound'. This should work fine right - as I am using the finishing after I complete the taping and coating? I am new at this but want the perfect end result!
Thanks for this info! My mudded joints had a lot of air pockets and this method filled in everything great along with smoothing out anything I couldn't really see otherwise. I did it with two people though. My SO had to deal with the roller as I took the mud off. Finished a 23x13x8 room in two hours.
Moon Pie imo, the skimming gives a mire uniform surface for the primer and paint, especially on very old and damaged drywall. I can show you walls that were patched and primed that you can see every patch. The patches have a much smoother texture than the rest of the wall was painted. That is why I am skimming a couple of walls now. That being said, I do prime thicker than the video shows! I like to do it thick enough to completely hide the drywall behind the mud. Not sure that is necessary, just something I do. I thought that mud was too thin to start with. I may be wrong.
I've worked on some of the biggest jobs you can work on and we almost never need to skim coat if you paint correctly you will not get any flashing whether you skim coat or not
Let me ask you...I'm about to begin taping several rooms. I bought quick 45 from the depot. Is it a pain to use? I've always used regular joint compound from a 5gal. Bucket.
Yeah lol. You'll be surprised how fast 45 minutes come. It's not as creamy. It's ok for something like a first coat, this way you can get a second on the same day. But not for third or after. In my eyes. Works really good on patching and stuff like that.
that's interesting. I've had the privilege to work with 5 different drywall company's . they had been in business for 40+ years. myself have been in the business for 15 years. I myself turn over a flawless job with what you call a level 3. the compounds and products used specifically say minimal to no sanding required. the porous texture of the drywall board itself has the same feel as unsanded sheetrock. if it's skimmed right. yeah, level 3.
Hey Dom. Just found your channel. You are awesome. I just replaced some drywall in my laundry room after we had a black mold remediation. The guys that removed the old board did a 3 foot high flood cut up from the floor to remove all the mold. Ive replaced the drywall, but the lets just say some of the drywall joints aren't flush. Ive tried to fix it but it comes out the same every time. I think the best option is to do a heavy texture to cover all of the flaws and the uneven joints. The original walls have a light but pretty uneven texture on them. Ive textured walls before, but its been a long time and I don't want to end up wasting a bunch of mud. Any advice or direction you could give would be fantastic. Im going to attempt to start taping the uneven joints today (yikes)…. and I'm a bit scared to even get started. Can you help??
Thanks for the video, our 2 year old house is worth more than 1.1 M now in BC Canada, the print job was not really match with the price tag, was planing to reprinted myself or hire someone, before I do that just want to figure out what`s the proper way to do it.
Hey Dominick! Another great video as always. I do have a question though... When your doing drywall mudding, did you say that you don't use drywall paper or mesh until step 3? If I heard that right, could you please explain why you do it that way please and thank you so much. I was taught to do mesh tape on the first step. Also that, mudding is a 3 step process, so seeing and hearing about your 5 step has me a little confused on what's the best way to do it? Please help. Been a fan for a long time. I've watched a lot of your electrical DIY videos too.
Im in UK I was taught this 30yrs ago and have never seen anyone do it since besides me.Works great on long downlit corridors where you can normally see all the joints.
i am the same way here,i was the only person around here that rolled it on the wall, and a few laughed when i did it, then later came back and asked what i used for a sleeve and how thin to mix it lol,,great work btw
I have been doing home remodeling for 15 years and never knew about this technique. I can understand how the added labor would result in a super smooth finish. Using a 3/8 or 1/2 inch roller pad using a drywall pva primer and two top coats I have never had any issues with uneven textures. Thanks for the vid
+Ozzstar Under certain lighting conditions, you can see where the mud was applied over the joints vs the field area of the wallboard because the underlying textures are different (paper vs mud). A coat of primer would not change the texture.
what you said with commercial places with high ceilings, shadows and lights is when you need to up it to level 5. I did the best level 4 job on it and the lights made it look horrible! I didn't know to use the roller and ended up doing 6 coats of skim in lit up areas!
Is this something I would do to get rid of the imperfections i can see on my ceiling? A new ceiling was put up and my spackling skills are intermediate. All of my walls look great but I can see every joint on the ceiling. Clearly I didn't use a wide enough knife and didn't feather it enough. I know I was supposed to use flat paint on ceiling but we used the same paint as used on the walls. A satin pure white. Id like to keep the satin finish look but will consider using flat paint if I have no other choice. Do I need to sand the existing paint or can I spackle right over it? After feathering it properly do I give the ceiling a level 5 finish so I can use the satin paint?
You can save time skim coating way past the width of joints before the final joint sanding. That way you don't ever sand directly on paper. Yeah, if gloss paint, not flat, is used, you have to make sure the whole surface area is uniform or it shows.
I spray and back roll a flat primer. Then roll two coats. That's it! Some of you guys are talking about spray, back roll, sand, mud the entire wall, sand with a screen, and bless it with holy water. Geez guys, the way you were taught, isn't always the best way. Open your mind a little.
What's the level 5 compound you use. Can this technique be used in corner beads. Also it would have been good demonstration if u show wall painted to c difference
PVA primer will achieve basically the same goal. its easier to apply uniform than skimming and sanding, i always use PVA on new drywall and to blend repairs with existing drywall
Easiest way to stop joints from flashing is a good flat primer followed by first coat of color wit a flat paint. Then go with your eggshell or semigloss
GREAT video!!! I never knew about this step. I have that same brand 5 gallon bucket with a blue lid, mine is much thicker than that. Should it be thinned to do mudding? Thank you, you're a super great teacher!! I am going to surprise my husband and have all this done next time he looks in my closet...I am hoping to have it completed!!! He'll think I hired someone to do it!! : D yeah...wish me luck on the recess lights...the only part of doing this that is disturbing is working with wiring...I can do it though. Luckily the panel is less than 30' away and that's going from the panel box, up inside the wall, across the ceiling using PVC to fish it, one light, then the other light, and back down to the switches for the two lights. I sure hope I find a video on recessed lights!!! Nevermind on the question. Leave it the same to do mudding.
This is most useful when repainting walls that have been around for a while. The skim coat can hide surface flaws that have accumulated over the years, making the surface look brand new.
Oh my Gosh! This legit changed the way I have looked at patching drywall by 1000 percent. I'm a home DIYer. I recently installed surround sound in my living room by opening the walls up with a flexible 4 foot drill bit and is g Ryobi Drywall patches. I've been stressing over the patched areas flat and uniform again before painting. I cannot thank you enough for making this video and completely changing my way forward! THANKS!
This man is straight forward and knows his stuff ! Just like it's supposed to be!
Tried this on a d/w repair job. 2 walls in a room. old walls had about 5 coats primer and paint. This technique was quick and really done the job.
next time spray on a product call prep coat. One coat.
Thank you Dominic for posting, well worth the time to prep the walls properly.. I have on occasion done exactly that to have that look for the paint finish.
Always something interesting from you Dominick! Thanks. Still reeling from your clearest-ever explanation of a three-way switch.
Wow that's slick. I noticed that thing on the bright glossy walls and was doing the regular mud by hand and then sanding the entire wall in order to get that consistency where you can't tell the joints at all.
Excellent tip! I'm refinishing the entryway in our house. I'll try it!
Askmediy: You have THE best drywalling videos. Retired Air Force here hanging out at Lowe's for something to do. Doing drywall at my house (we have a total fixer upper) makes me go mental, but your videos help me get it all sorted out. Wish I was at the pro skill level, I think I would love it then.
I'll be doing this on one of our bathrooms since we over-sanded some of the paper. I think this will solve the issue.
Sylvia Mills thank you for your service
Thanks Dom.. It's my first doing a DIY drywall job. Good tips for newbie like me. :)
I use a skim coat on all of my work, but I've never done this before. I mostly resurface old plaster walls and older textured drywall. Mostly uneven substrate. 2 top coats and the same on all new work (level 6?) to match it up. On a good day all I need to finish is a sanding sponge to straighten out a few blemishes.
Best videos on doing mudding on youtube!!! This is actually very helpful.. Thank you for sharing..
Hey bud, I been checking out your videos, you are very helpful and explain everything very well! thank you for taking the time to do this!
I never do level 5. On occasion I will do level 4 when there is a lot of lighting, but the normal standard here on the east coast is tape, then block coat, then skim coat. After prime then point up where needed.
you rock, i had no idea how to eliminate those nasty shadows... Thank You so much.... Your Awesome
great job many thanks for these tips,about to start myself on my own walls valuable tips.
Great Video. Very informative and to the point. Thanks for taking the time Dominic.
I think this is my most favorite channel and dude on the web at the moment. Cool!
Thanks for this video,I have had this problem and didn't know how to fix it!
Wow, I guess that is one option/technique. Across the water in The Netherlands, we plaster or finish the wall with Knauf MP75 gypsum, either spray or by hand, and go through a process of polishing and smoothing as it drys. Minimal dust and no sanding required. It's so smooth and straight you can literally see yourself in the wall and MP75 is really hard wearing plaster suitable for commercial buildings or homes. Now at least I understand what a North American guy, living in Amsterdam at the time, was trying to explain to me how he plastered a wall, sanded it smooth and had dust everywhere :)
For 34 years as a professional Painter and Decorator, i bond my drywall with a PVA mix prior to applying paint. Lovely smooth and consistant finish, just my opinion.
What do you mean exactly are you saying to add the pva primer on the drywall then paint over? Or are you mixing your PVA?
@@prominentsinglesinternatio4168 paint with pva
Paint with normal paint
Good Video Dom ..The Principal Issue of Skimming is covered Sealing the surface texture. I use my wide trowel for skimming walls. Yes commercial and residential projects that present an abundant of lighting will show flaws especially on fresh drywall which tends to absorb primer paint differently in various rooms effected by temperature and lighting. I agree this skimming process is a great insurance for sealing the drywall surface supported by a good primer sealer which is a key factor in improving or achieving a texture smooth finish. Thanks
I used this method over some patches and it works perfect to blend it all in. I just use a paper plate and some mud with a dab of dishsoap and some water to make it very light weight before I roll it on with a small roller.
Level 1 is eigther a prefill coat or a tape coat. Either way it is the first coat done to the drywall surface.
I usually refer to light that highlights drywall setting imperfections or "shadows" as glancing light. Light often comes from Windows or lights etc.
Holy crap I did drywall taping and finishing for 24 years and finally wised up and became an electrician...I hope your getting paid alot of money for that finish..California we would just put on a light hand texture...but. To each their own...
Been doing drywall for long time. A crew I worked with sprayed the drywall with water then used squeegees to wipe it down. If you raise the nap on the drywall you can hand spounge it down. Painters dont do their job right for the most part. Yes good primer and sand. Most people dont know it but when you primer you only have so many hours to apply the paint so it bonds. Otherwise its a must sand before paint. You should sand the primer painters.
I worked in the Drywall trade for quite a few years and never knew of an architect to spec this. The best tape job will show joints depending on the lighting. The trick is good tape job, quality primer and FLAT paint. Any type of gloss paint will reflect light off the sheetrock paper differently than off the compound.
So very true.
Utterly brilliant solution.
Great videos Dom as usual. Just throw a thin skim over all the bare drywall after tapped and screw holes filled. Two coats of primer. Game set and match. Next.
Thank you, this was just the information I needed!!!
I can't believe I watched this.
Hahahahhahahah
Because TH-cam told you to and you are a follower
Haha me too I've watched a few drywall vids ! FmL
You gotta love the little tricks that take your finished project to the next level. Super simple!
Thank you for your help and your time! I appreciate your patience 🙏👍
Always my pleasure
One of the best.
I have professionally painted for 20 years evidently this guy has about 20 minutes of painting experience
But yet here you’re watching my video. Kinda strange don’t ya think.
There is a recent article in Fine Homebuilding that says another way to achieve a Level 5 finish is to spray the walls with a primer/surfacer instead of the skim coating.
Jed Morton the skim coating you do at level 4 then to achieve a level 5 you either skim again or do the surfacing with the spray method which you do have to spray couple of times. either way works
I live in a Brooklyn apartment and my landlords unlicensed workers are doing level negative 1.
Oh boy lol
Ha ha nice
Well it is NYC... good luck
killajakez is it Daniel frijia he a bad landlord
killajakez lol!
...this is important information and the presentation is excellent...nice job!
Thank you very much.
Never tried or saw this before. I will give it a try on next job. Thanks
If you need to it's the way to go.
I admire that he said he made it a little thin
I’ve been a drywall finisher for 38 years this is a good process to do for an apprentice first off I never use the sanding pole we call that an idiot stick if I’m doing this smooth finish I use sponge on all my joints and lap marks second of all I covered the entire wall with 1/8 of mod with my 18 inch knife this way I can lay off very smooth with you let marks I come back the next day to take a small sanding block fine finish and take out any of the little thick laps but the rest of them are use the sponge on just the swirl in the walls come out
Good commercial guys around here will do this in high end tenant improvements but they'll put the final coat on with an airless paint sprayer. Works great.
Got a video
thank you :) you explained it so well and to the point
Nice tip, thanks!
This is great! I am working on re-doing my garage right now. The last homeowner did kind of a hack job on the tape/mud, and it all cracked, split, and popped out in many spots. Then they did kind of a weird paint job- only as far as they could reach (no ladder or extension pole???). Anyway, I plan on using a glossier paint out there, this will help mask over the transitions! Keep the videos coming, I love your channel!
StormLaker1975 4
i love dry wall and sheet rock 45 mud its so smooth.
To nice recommendation I do it on all the ceilings that I tape it really does conceal much more than just doing the seams
I am a care home owner in Ireland, on our last new build we used LED lighting, that bright light shows up all the shadows that you talked about on the dry wall.. it looks wild bad..
Most Led lights are adjustable these days. You can set it at soft white, bright white, and daylight.
I simply sprayed RuCoat 10 mils thick with a .516 tip as recommended by the manufacturer, sanded, primed, and painted as usual. Its advisable to back roll if needed, but I didn't see the need. It worked great and it is fast as it can get. 👍
Thanks for the information, it's great! Also I want to thank you for using high quality audio on your video. So many have very poor quality sound. Thanks.
Thanks for the great vid, I am likely to do this on my ceiling but with 'Gyprock® Final Finish Topping Compound'. This should work fine right - as I am using the finishing after I complete the taping and coating? I am new at this but want the perfect end result!
Thanks for this info! My mudded joints had a lot of air pockets and this method filled in everything great along with smoothing out anything I couldn't really see otherwise. I did it with two people though. My SO had to deal with the roller as I took the mud off. Finished a 23x13x8 room in two hours.
Awesome deal.
Dominic, I love the videos. When will there be new ones posted?
Might not seem credible... but what he’s saying is right, one way to do a complete professional finish. Wall will look good in any light or photo
Moon Pie imo, the skimming gives a mire uniform surface for the primer and paint, especially on very old and damaged drywall. I can show you walls that were patched and primed that you can see every patch. The patches have a much smoother texture than the rest of the wall was painted. That is why I am skimming a couple of walls now.
That being said, I do prime thicker than the video shows!
I like to do it thick enough to completely hide the drywall behind the mud. Not sure that is necessary, just something I do.
I thought that mud was too thin to start with. I may be wrong.
I've worked on some of the biggest jobs you can work on and we almost never need to skim coat if you paint correctly you will not get any flashing whether you skim coat or not
Nicely done. Very informative and concise. I never new about level 5.
Thank you very much. Many people never heard of this. Even some pros, until they're on a commercial job and it spect for it
Let me ask you...I'm about to begin taping several rooms. I bought quick 45 from the depot.
Is it a pain to use? I've always used regular joint compound from a 5gal. Bucket.
Yeah lol. You'll be surprised how fast 45 minutes come. It's not as creamy. It's ok for something like a first coat, this way you can get a second on the same day. But not for third or after. In my eyes. Works really good on patching and stuff like that.
Thanks for that, I'm not exactly speedy Gonzalez (can you say that). I'll try it out and see how it goes for me.
LOL Hey I've spent all week making a Q&A site... www.dominickdiy.com if you get a minute check it out and let me know what you think. Thanks man.
that's interesting. I've had the privilege to work with 5 different drywall company's . they had been in business for 40+ years. myself have been in the business for 15 years. I myself turn over a flawless job with what you call a level 3. the compounds and products used specifically say minimal to no sanding required. the porous texture of the drywall board itself has the same feel as unsanded sheetrock. if it's skimmed right. yeah, level 3.
I Used to use oil based lock tite and a about 3 coats of semigloss latex and call it a day.
I like this guy.
great demo thank you
Hey Dom. Just found your channel. You are awesome. I just replaced some drywall in my laundry room after we had a black mold remediation. The guys that removed the old board did a 3 foot high flood cut up from the floor to remove all the mold. Ive replaced the drywall, but the lets just say some of the drywall joints aren't flush. Ive tried to fix it but it comes out the same every time. I think the best option is to do a heavy texture to cover all of the flaws and the uneven joints. The original walls have a light but pretty uneven texture on them. Ive textured walls before, but its been a long time and I don't want to end up wasting a bunch of mud. Any advice or direction you could give would be fantastic. Im going to attempt to start taping the uneven joints today (yikes)…. and I'm a bit scared to even get started. Can you help??
Thanks for this
Thanks for the video, our 2 year old house is worth more than 1.1 M now in BC Canada, the print job was not really match with the price tag, was planing to reprinted myself or hire someone, before I do that just want to figure out what`s the proper way to do it.
Hey Dominick! Another great video as always. I do have a question though... When your doing drywall mudding, did you say that you don't use drywall paper or mesh until step 3? If I heard that right, could you please explain why you do it that way please and thank you so much. I was taught to do mesh tape on the first step. Also that, mudding is a 3 step process, so seeing and hearing about your 5 step has me a little confused on what's the best way to do it? Please help. Been a fan for a long time. I've watched a lot of your electrical DIY videos too.
Im in UK I was taught this 30yrs ago and have never seen anyone do it since besides me.Works great on long downlit corridors where you can normally see all the joints.
I'll say. Thanks for commenting.
i am the same way here,i was the only person around here that rolled it on the wall, and a few laughed when i did it, then later came back and asked what i used for a sleeve and how thin to mix it lol,,great work btw
Too much of that pink stuff over there. It lets people say they have "plaster walls" when it's only an eighth of an inch thick.
It's nice to se jobs done properly, it's a very rare thing these days.
John Bower uh... that's not the proper way. This guy is a joke.
TopFiveOp s you no need for that
Great video bro
I have been doing home remodeling for 15 years and never knew about this technique. I can understand how the added labor would result in a super smooth finish. Using a 3/8 or 1/2 inch roller pad using a drywall pva primer and two top coats I have never had any issues with uneven textures. Thanks for the vid
I really use what ever nap I have available but yes a thicker nap is better.
+Ozzstar Under certain lighting conditions, you can see where the mud was applied over the joints vs the field area of the wallboard because the underlying textures are different (paper vs mud). A coat of primer would not change the texture.
I like that makes sense
can you use the same process to smooth out rough walls after drywall removal
Thanks for your advise
Good idea looks like it would work on ceiling too.
Just don't scrape it off.
My smooth ceiling is uneven all over. Especial around the lights.
what you said with commercial places with high ceilings, shadows and lights is when you need to up it to level 5. I did the best level 4 job on it and the lights made it look horrible! I didn't know to use the roller and ended up doing 6 coats of skim in lit up areas!
oh no.
Very helpful Dominic, thank you.
Awesome, glad I could help
Thank you for no music while talking!
Thank you I over sanded left some lines,skim coat worked
Always does, glad to hear it.
very well explained
Is this something I would do to get rid of the imperfections i can see on my ceiling? A new ceiling was put up and my spackling skills are intermediate. All of my walls look great but I can see every joint on the ceiling. Clearly I didn't use a wide enough knife and didn't feather it enough. I know I was supposed to use flat paint on ceiling but we used the same paint as used on the walls. A satin pure white. Id like to keep the satin finish look but will consider using flat paint if I have no other choice. Do I need to sand the existing paint or can I spackle right over it? After feathering it properly do I give the ceiling a level 5 finish so I can use the satin paint?
Good honest video.
Good job sr.!!!
You can save time skim coating way past the width of joints before the final joint sanding. That way you don't ever sand directly on paper. Yeah, if gloss paint, not flat, is used, you have to make sure the whole surface area is uniform or it shows.
I spray and back roll a flat primer. Then roll two coats. That's it! Some of you guys are talking about spray, back roll, sand, mud the entire wall, sand with a screen, and bless it with holy water. Geez guys, the way you were taught, isn't always the best way. Open your mind a little.
kind of funny how many of you guys dont know what level5 is. with high light areas or spots that sun cast in works great.
I learned this shit when I was 13. Had a roughneck dad. Taught me young. 😎
Did he teach you to bite the pillow too?
What's the level 5 compound you use. Can this technique be used in corner beads. Also it would have been good demonstration if u show wall painted to c difference
Cool idea!
Brilliant!
How do you do this on the already painted textured wall or ceiling?
Nice job dom
Good, simple explanation.
Thank you
Hey great video if it that easy y in Britain do we plaster the walls after dry walking lol
This is what I just asked myself. I am not british and now i am shocked I cant even find stuff to do it a proper and easy way
You can spray with an airless, much faster and smoother.
great video
PVA primer will achieve basically the same goal. its easier to apply uniform than skimming and sanding, i always use PVA on new drywall and to blend repairs with existing drywall
Love your videos and accent
Really good explanation
Glad it was helpful!
Easiest way to stop joints from flashing is a good flat primer followed by first coat of color wit a flat paint. Then go with your eggshell or semigloss
GREAT video!!! I never knew about this step. I have that same brand 5 gallon bucket with a blue lid, mine is much thicker than that. Should it be thinned to do mudding? Thank you, you're a super great teacher!! I am going to surprise my husband and have all this done next time he looks in my closet...I am hoping to have it completed!!! He'll think I hired someone to do it!! : D yeah...wish me luck on the recess lights...the only part of doing this that is disturbing is working with wiring...I can do it though. Luckily the panel is less than 30' away and that's going from the panel box, up inside the wall, across the ceiling using PVC to fish it, one light, then the other light, and back down to the switches for the two lights. I sure hope I find a video on recessed lights!!! Nevermind on the question. Leave it the same to do mudding.
Okay I have a new idea thank you for the good video