Hey man first video of yours ive seen and i must say i just love the way you explain everything with perfect demonstration to just make it that much easier to understand! That "overexposure" between 21:00 - 21:30 made sleeving pistons look so easy🤣🙌🏻
Great job I would only like to say the piston rings are not supposed to be placed at the thrust front or back or at the wrist pins I know the 2 compression rings rotate but this is still an accepted practice thanks for all the great content and keep it coming and showing us all that things can be reused and not to just junk everything
It’s not a ghettoo build bro, the engine looks healthy and this is great content. Most people just pay for someone to build their engine. This is just true car enthusiast content. 🤌
Back when I worked at a shop we used to call this a "mexicali special". Its definitely not a proper rebuild. It may last, it may not. Bare minimum you should have the block tanked and magna fluxed, decked, cylinders checked and re-honed, and the main journals checked. You should have the crank balanced and micro-polished. And use new pistons rings and bearings. If there is any excessive wear on the pistons replace those as well. It's not that expensive to do. Usually when you just slap these together without doing any of that, you will be lucky to get 20-30K out of them.
@@rickh2044 also don't shy away from the HF torque wrenches, their old version. They are chinese made but they are based off of an old snap-on design, so they are solid. You can get all three, 1/4 in, 3/8 in, and 1/2 in for around $100, and you can calibrate them easily with a $5 luggage scale and a bench vise. it's also easy to test them before each application. I initially calibrated them, then I would just verify they were still good using the vice and luggage scale before I would apply a torque to a bolt.
Going to rebuild my K20Z1, and I have been reading the service manual for preparation. One thing I noticed is that you didn’t measure the crank journals or pistons and use the plasti gauge for the crank. Can you put new crank bearing without measuring and finding the right size?
When using the dx size does it say +.25 on them? I've tried using these on my build and I wasn't able to spin my crankshaft while my rods were tighten to spec.. I switched to std size and was able to spin it.. I must be ordering wrong sizes since I heard you say you use 1000th bigger than std size? If so what is the item number or size I should get since I do notice a oil pressure issue on some of these f23a blocks I put together..
This was just a thought of mine... when you mentioned the intake side of the piston body was bigger and that it was more complicated than air and fuel going in, does it have anything to do with Bernoullis Principle? It says that an increase in the speed of a fluid occurs simultaneously with a decrease in pressure. So in theory the air exiting through the exhaust system would escape faster due to the smaller size of the exhaust valve so more air and fuel can be added without worrying about running too rich and also providing more power. I'm not trying to sound smart or like I know it all, its a genuine question I have I just felt like I made a connection and it makes sense. I'm not knowledegable on cars I'm no mechanic but I'm smart enough to understand the concept and vision behind minor tweaks car manufacturers make to their engines
What are the oem piston gap specs , I’m currently refreshing my k20 and I got oem piston rings and can’t seem to find the oem spec anywhere for the proper gap
What about The Right Stuff Grey or Permatex Optimum Grey line of gasket maker? The Ultra Grey is kinda oldie and goodie so is the Honda Bond 167 likes so far, 0 dislikes!
Not his like he literally just said....he would said something otherwise, try it and see if it does. If not leave it, if not then bore it...not even a big deal my opinion just Clean the shit out of it.
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Hey man first video of yours ive seen and i must say i just love the way you explain everything with perfect demonstration to just make it that much easier to understand! That "overexposure" between 21:00 - 21:30 made sleeving pistons look so easy🤣🙌🏻
I meant the whole piston installation mb🤦🏼♂️
Great job I would only like to say the piston rings are not supposed to be placed at the thrust front or back or at the wrist pins I know the 2 compression rings rotate but this is still an accepted practice thanks for all the great content and keep it coming and showing us all that things can be reused and not to just junk everything
Great information. Another video soaked in the memory banks, thank you!
Damn... I've always measured my oil clearances for the bearings. Pretty wild
😂😂😂 THISE BEARING MIGHT NOT SURVIED WITH THAT HAMMER TRICK
Don't know how accurate that "degree" tool is but hey I guess thats 1 way to do it
Amazing bud. Thanks as always. Clutch
Team Swamp
It’s not a ghettoo build bro, the engine looks healthy and this is great content. Most people just pay for someone to build their engine. This is just true car enthusiast content. 🤌
Back when I worked at a shop we used to call this a "mexicali special". Its definitely not a proper rebuild. It may last, it may not. Bare minimum you should have the block tanked and magna fluxed, decked, cylinders checked and re-honed, and the main journals checked. You should have the crank balanced and micro-polished. And use new pistons rings and bearings. If there is any excessive wear on the pistons replace those as well. It's not that expensive to do. Usually when you just slap these together without doing any of that, you will be lucky to get 20-30K out of them.
@@garygogo9048 thanks for the info! Doing my rebuild soon and will use your advice!
@@rickh2044 also don't shy away from the HF torque wrenches, their old version. They are chinese made but they are based off of an old snap-on design, so they are solid. You can get all three, 1/4 in, 3/8 in, and 1/2 in for around $100, and you can calibrate them easily with a $5 luggage scale and a bench vise. it's also easy to test them before each application. I initially calibrated them, then I would just verify they were still good using the vice and luggage scale before I would apply a torque to a bolt.
Cant wait for the swap to be done 🙌🏼🙌🏼
you are 100% on those bearings sir
Going to rebuild my K20Z1, and I have been reading the service manual for preparation. One thing I noticed is that you didn’t measure the crank journals or pistons and use the plasti gauge for the crank. Can you put new crank bearing without measuring and finding the right size?
Great details on how to put it all together
When using the dx size does it say +.25 on them? I've tried using these on my build and I wasn't able to spin my crankshaft while my rods were tighten to spec.. I switched to std size and was able to spin it.. I must be ordering wrong sizes since I heard you say you use 1000th bigger than std size? If so what is the item number or size I should get since I do notice a oil pressure issue on some of these f23a blocks I put together..
Best video out there man!! Very detailed 💯💯
Excellent tutorial !
Good shit bro.
Yee Yee! Wish we were neighbors
Great video! Thanks from Brazil.
When u gonna visit colorado again bro we need another taco days that sh#t was lit 🔥
This was just a thought of mine... when you mentioned the intake side of the piston body was bigger and that it was more complicated than air and fuel going in, does it have anything to do with Bernoullis Principle? It says that an increase in the speed of a fluid occurs simultaneously with a decrease in pressure. So in theory the air exiting through the exhaust system would escape faster due to the smaller size of the exhaust valve so more air and fuel can be added without worrying about running too rich and also providing more power.
I'm not trying to sound smart or like I know it all, its a genuine question I have I just felt like I made a connection and it makes sense. I'm not knowledegable on cars I'm no mechanic but I'm smart enough to understand the concept and vision behind minor tweaks car manufacturers make to their engines
Hey man, did you hone those cylinder walls before?
Rtv in the bolt holes is fine bro don’t worry when you tighten it down it pushes out
56 deg is almost one screw head angle, you can mark one and then tighten to almost another
It is immposible to lost track of tight and loose screws this way :>
The tool is $22.00 on Amazon
What are the oem piston gap specs , I’m currently refreshing my k20 and I got oem piston rings and can’t seem to find the oem spec anywhere for the proper gap
Thanks brother great vid !!👊🏽👍🏽
wicked video thanks for the knowledge
Great content homie!
Thanks for this. Going to try and install an A2 crank with type R internals in my k20a3
Did you do that?
yeah howd that go? i've seen the crank journals and obviously crank dia are different sizes
How did you honed the block?
What about The Right Stuff Grey or Permatex Optimum Grey line of gasket maker?
The Ultra Grey is kinda oldie and goodie so is the Honda Bond
167 likes so far, 0 dislikes!
does the stock k20 has steel sleeve cylinders?
Would that staining on the cylinders come off with a dingleberry hone?
Not his like he literally just said....he would said something otherwise, try it and see if it does. If not leave it, if not then bore it...not even a big deal my opinion just Clean the shit out of it.
do you have a specific position to install the piston rods??
Stupid question folks when do i need to step up with bore size say 86 to 86.5, also does the sleeve need to get bored out for a .5, thanks all
Will someone help me with a doubt. K20A6 engine oil sump is compatible with K20A2 engine. Thank you very much
Keep it up bro 💯🚘🔰
Awesome video
What u used to clean up pistons?
How much did u pay for your integra
Does anybody know where I can get the torque specs
💪
❤️🙏🙏
Why is ur crankshaft dry and rusting?? Needs to be lubed the eff up.
Bolts need oil before torquing.
K20a2?
Sharpie is optional
Tech angle bro
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
90 degrees doesn't require some jenk phone app bro. Just a sharpee and common sense.