Tbh, if you're a pro ( which is what Phil is aiming at) all of the info ( including sniffing the bristle) is key to making the life changing decisions us pro decorators are having to make day in day out. Unless you're a pro you'll never understand the break neck speed at which we have to make our selections in the merchants. I once spent a mere 3.5 hours just deciding what brush cleaner I wanted. Do you not appreciate how dedicated we are to the products we choose for our lovely customers? Keep up the procrastination Phil, we rely upon it. 👍
I agree there is only so much of silly expressions a man can take. How many times does his mouth run too fast and he has to repeat himself? Sorry to be negative but .....
I agree morgs too much time spent in the mirror, not much time on speech ..... repeating slurred words and smirks could cut the crap. I dare say he is a half decent decorator. As for a media wonabe then personally he can fund his own reliant.
Very good video Phil and I can clarify a few points with you. The Aqua Guard is fully waterbased it is a PU paint. There's also plenty of decorators who spray with it without a problem. As for the creeps or runs you have encountered, I have been using it for over 3 years now and don't have a problem with it. What you have to remember is that a lot of decorators are reluctant to use a waterbased paint not only for the finish but also the application. Aqua Guard is the nearest waterbased paint to apply and finish like an oil based paint does. Permoglaze, Manor or the old Leyland gloss are good examples of oil based paints that would start running as soon as you opened the tin but it was a skill of the trade to be able to apply it properly to get the super finish. Scuff X applies easily because it's a thixotropic paint. To the lay person this is a self undercoating paint like the old non drip paints that were available for the retail customer, they are not trade paints that were used by tradesmen. If you walked onto a job in the 80's or 90's with a non drip paint you would be laughed off it by the other trades. There's a trade off between quality and the Scuff X doesn't match up in opacity, durability or adhesion and this has been proven time and again. It's a sad state of the trade today when decorators use an inferior paint to Aqua Guard, Isolac Aqua or Caparol PU for example just because it applies easy. You said it all when you said 'If you are skilled with a brush you will find it easier to apply'. If you use it regularly and you are a good painter you will have no problem applying this paint. If you aren't very good at painting then you will spend over a £100 for a 3.78 litre tin of Scuff X. What makes the Aqua Guard even more special is that it has ' industrial strength binders' that give it its durability. It is the equivalent of a 2k paint in a waterbased paint. Caparol PU which is the nearest in strength to Aqua Guard is half as strong and this is why Aqua Guard is interior only, the extra durability makes it too brittle for exterior work with the swelling and contracting of the external wood in the different seasons.
That's lot of waffle mate. And btw thixotropic doesn't mean self undercoating 😂 it relates solely to the viscosity lowering upon agitation (brushing etc). You must be such a superior painter that you can use aqua guard with no runs when all of us so called 'pros' report exactly the same issue. Teach us the ways of the brush sir as we are clearly inferior to you
@@swatts66 You don't even know that self undercoating paints are thixotropic and you call yourself a professional 🙄 As for the pain running? Phil's video is a prime example of how you can get the paint to run. You should never apply paint directly into corners and edges but work it into them. This is the way we were taught with applying oil based and the same method applies here. You also need to make sure that the paint is stirred thoroughly before use which a lot don't do. Also, 1 regional, 6 national and 1 global award for excellence in painting and decorating in the last 10 years may be explain why I can use it easily
@@chrisgreen5953 jesus your unsufferable aren't you 🤣 thixotropic ≠ self undercoating. Some thixotropic paints can be self undercoating (like the solo dulux/crown retail shite) but there are plenty of self undercoating paints that aren't thixotropic. And before you go tooting your horn about all these awards, you should know that the global one you supposedly won (and paid money for the pleasure of winning) is a well known scam so your basically bragging about being dumb enough to get scammed, so well done there buddy 😂
Great video, Phil. I've learnt how to tame this paint. Agreed, it really needs the UC to aid application - I had issues when I wasn't using the UC. I find I have to apply it very thin and really move the brush around to spread it so that I ensure there isn't any creep after some time. It does have a reasonable open time though if there is any creep. It sure does look good and the UC not only aids application but improved the finish. I do find though I need to hang around for it to be touch dry as some creep/runs can appear in the inside corners of the trims of doors and door frames, so I need to be able to just grab it out with my brush within the open time. I use a Purdy Sprig brush with this. Regarding opacity, to help over sanded down oil base, I've been using two aqua undercoats. Compared with Dulux Diamond (the only other WB I've used), I found the Diamond dried so quickly that if I spotted a run, it was too late, it pulled/flashed, so I prefer the AG as I have more time to work with it if I need to take a run out, but I am getting better at not getting runs so much.
Phil, a person with your time in the trade. Lets call a spade a spade. If YOU are getting runs with it same as we all do then it’s not right. ALSO mr green went in on me when i said i had used it in my own home on my newel posts and it had begun to wear away in no time. He said, user error. I assure you I prep more than the ‘average’ decorator. Degrease, wash down, sand (usually 2 different grades) primer/undercoat sand tops… you know. Well, i have only ever used it twice and immediately stopped due to runs (im not babysitting paint runs all day). The one other occasion aside from my house is on a job. I went back to that job this week to complete another room (in scuff x). The rooms i have done in aqua guard are shocking! Skirts are fine, but where you would touch a door however if you weren’t using the handle have completely worn through to the undercoat. Mr green stated it has technology in it that make it impossible to be affected by hand fats etc. i can tell you this is rubbish. I have repeat customers, most of my jobs are and i have never ever experienced anything like this with isomat, scuff x is yet to be determined but i haven’t so far had an issue. You get what you pay for i guess. Thanks for the honest video.
I’m not a decorator but I’d did train as a sign writer in the early 90’s so leant how to paint panels with oil based paint ready to sign write, so I’m good with painting doors and stuff with oil based paint, I have noticed how water based acrylic paints hold their colour better so I’ve tried aqua guard recently using the correct undercoat just on some architrave mainly to see how the colour holds up next to other finishes, they told me at the decorating centre to fully load the brush and lay it off as you put it on which worked in the most part but can’t say it was enjoyable, the finish is amazing I’m just not fully convinced probably just need to work with it a bit more.
A lot struggle with it, loading a brush and laying off will more than likely start getting curtains or signs of sagging. Hence I say most use a roller with it.
aqua guard as a finish looks very nice for a wb satin, but I agree the application could be "easier ". I've never used bm scuff x so it is impossible for me to compare the two, but i absolutely can't wait to give it a go at some stage. One thing i can compare aqua guard to is dulux diamond satinwood, which im currently using on a large job. If I'm being honest i hate the stuff (dulux satin), getting quite a few tiny creeping runs, particularly on edges of the architraves and I'm being careful with my application too. I'd be tearing my hair out if i had any left 😂. Anyway, good video Phil as always 👌🏼
hi ph,il,been using aqua guard system now for about 6 months,got use to it now,usually roll doors ledges etc with ice fusion 4 inch,same sleeve on for 6 months,lovely finish as ive had a lot of feedback of my customers,the undecoat is a hybrid and yes it is a brush wrecker,the aqua guard is pure water based brushes clean out great (arrowworthy 2inch angled oval) thanks phil great review keep up the good work.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator yes i use the jonos aqua undercoat,its a gold medalist in brush wrecking,so ive read another comment on your caprol pu satin vid that he uses joncryl with aqua guard so i think i will go down thst road.
Hi Phil, i have just finished a 6 bedroom house using the Aqua Guard on all the woodwork but used the Jonos Joncryle primer undercoat, which is fully water-based and had known problems. From oil based to waterbased, x1 Joncryle x2 Aqua Guard and it looks and feels fantastic.The Aqua undercoat being a hybrid killers your brushes so tried the Joncryle. Much better job. Kerp up the good work mate 👍
Great video Phil, I’ve been using Aqua Guard system for about 12 months now and the biggest issue I find are the delayed runs when using a brush. If you thin out the brush application to avoid this then then finish is compromised, applying the right amount of paint is vital so that the paint levels off to provide a nice finish. However the issue I find with this is that you have to be very careful with delayed runs appearing. As for overall finish it pretty good but the sheen level is closer to an eggshell than a satin for me. Having said all this I still think it’s a better product than Dulux and Crown WB paints. What Tikkurila system would you recommend for satin finish on internal woodwork?
@@grahamstacey3149 interesting, I find it hard work compared to other paints. I've a few videos in the next month that you'll find interesting. I cover Caparol, Tikkurila and Tekno satin... I also touch on ScuffX and Aqua Gaurd again.
Great video phil. All i used for about 3 years . Your bang on, there's other brands that apply so much it easier. It does run so much easier compared to other brands i found . People say its applications i thinks its the paint personally
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator agree , aqua quard is a lot more time consuming to apply always checking for runs. I used wrx satinwood at home what a dream to apply .
I've just used the Aqua Guard for the first time and probably won't be using it again because of the runs. I was using Bedec Aqua Advanced before and will be going back to it. Maybe not quite as durable as the Aqua Guard but never got any runs
I love your channel but can you please say at any point do you need to put a bit of water in to loosen up a bit. As out of the tin it’s terribly thick!?
I had to paint our front door today. Had a Crown white gloss, previously opened I don’t know when, and the crappiest brushes you’ve ever seen. It was murder. The paint was pulling like mad. I thought What would Phil Beckwith think of this? I was ashamed. Lesson learned, going to buy some decent paint and new brushes and re-do it 👍
Hello thanks for your video. I have bought some Johnsons aqua guard after watching another video of yours and also Zinsser bulls eye 123 for the undercoat am I right I cannot use the Bullseye 123 and need to buy the Johnsons please? Its all so confusing I just want to paint my woodwork. The paint I am painting over is an oil based paint. Thank you
I have been using Aqua Guard with it's undercoat for a while and it is such a shame that it still runs and sacks after a while when most of it is already dry, so annoying. Last job I swore I would try something else. Is Isomat a 2 coat system Phil?
Isomat Isolac is a three coat system. Primer/Uc and two top coats. Have a look at Dulux Heritage eggshell, thats's 2 coats. You can use the heritage uc if going over a change of colour or from bare wood etc.
Thank you I will try Isomac now and I have heard about heritage being good. I can probably sway my current customer to go with either for the whole house (more like msnsion) as long as they mix it into her Farrow and Ball colour? (Not to impressed with the opacity on that one)Which they should with heritage right? What about Isomac, can i get colours mixed?
Nice one Phil, I have been looking forward to this one...This thing with the runs seems to crop up a lot..Dulux WB Satin was the same, the trouble is, the tech people don't listen. Jonnos, are you reading this?...sort it out along with the need for an undercoat and you'll have a winner. I use aquaguard over a WB bridging primer, I cant be doing with that brush wrecking undercoat.... I've never heard a bad thing about ScuffX so I'll accept what people say about it..unfortunately I just can't justify the cost to people. Although the next time I need separate tins of undercoat and topcoat I may give the ScuffX a shot, assuming one can will be enough. Tikkurilla Intact next?...thats probably a closer comparison if ScuffX is going to be the benchmark for all these paints..Intact is self priming. I used quite a bit of it
@@petra2885 yup...and the reason I just cant see tge point in 'hybrids'....its like all the good things and all the bad things of water an oil based paint in one tin
Hi Phil. Hi Handsome 😉 have you or anyone tried Crown fastflow quick dry satin white ? I was about to buy Trade AquaGuard paint for my interior wood work > doors & window frames but then noticed on the can. AG paint is for interior only. Wereras Crown fastflow quick dry satin is for both interior & exterior joinery and metalwork. Wouldn't this make Crown fast flow more durable being both interior & exterior Vs AquaGuard ? Also, Paint shops near me do not sell isomat or BM Scuff X satin. To order isomat or BM Scuff X satin paints online with postage added is extremely expensive for me. Any close alternatives ? Or should I just go with AG on both my doors and windows frames ?
Never got on with aqua guard personally. Like you had here runs seem to just come from nowhere 20 mins later. Shame, great finish otherwise just a pig to use
Thanks for your reply, what paint would you recommend for replacing gloss doors that doesn't yellowing over time and it gloss or satin? I've hear scuffx is good. Thanks
@@MrRoadruner2 ScuffX is good. But they don't do a gloss. Isomat Isolac is good. Bedec Aqua Advanced is good Dulux heritage Eggshell is good. H&G touch and scuff guard is good... But it's more eggshell than satin. Capraol puSatin is good . The puGloss and s ok... But isn't full gloss.
100% correct with the AQUA undercoat here, the Aquaguard behaves a lot better over the proper undercoat, if you apply to existing water/ oil based satin it seems to run terrible.
Theres no point in using anything other than Isomat or Scruff X mate. We've all been through this years ago,the whole thing. Fair for showing etc, but thoses that know are long gone from this🙌🏽
This is my stock satin. I use it with the Aqua undercoat, but you need separate brushes or rollers because the undercoat will kill them. The Aqua Guard washes out lovely. For an off the shelf, on budget system, this is as good as it gets. I like Isomat too, but it's more expensive. Looks great in colours, too. And it rolls perfectly with the Two Fussy Blokes rollers.
Here’s my experiences of Aqua water based undercoat. Take a new brush and use Aqua UC for 30mins. Clean brushes throughly as recommended. Pour some white spirit into a container an agitate your cleaned brush in the solution. It’ll turn white from residue left on your brush. Definitely a brush killer if you don’t do this. Aqua Guard satin doesn’t have this issue.
HB42 caulk is one of the best I've used. No paint crazing, even with cheap contract matt. Dries quick, paintable after an hour . Very flexible , deep joint fill too... it's white and it stays white.
Exactly what Dennis said. Hb42 is the best. I order mine in boxes of 12 from dawes paints online. It really doesn't crack and craze like other caulks. The caulk itself is a bit wetter compared to geocel painters mate (if that makes sense) but once you get used to it it's good as gold.
yes, it has its place in the market. it's not for the general painter as they won't pay for it.. maybe their customer base is also different that doesn't warrant or want to pay for the extra material paint cost?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator To be fair, with the BM paint, when you buy the tin (around 4 litres?) it works out to be around £25 per litre so it's cheaper than the AG and even the Dulux Satin now. I've only seen the BM in the 4L pot, or 3.8 or what ever it is. I've never used BM though, but I'd like to one day. I'm only a DIYer so It'll be a long time until I need to buy anything again.
Hello I READ THIS interesting article on the decorators forum. Johnstone’s Aqua Guard Satinwood - Two Coats. ⚠ Undercoat is not necessary. Here what the Article says Johnstone’s Trade Aqua Guard Satin is a fully water-based satinwood designed for internal woodwork. The benefits of this over the Aqua Satinwood are; this is more durable and will not yellow at all. Not that the Aqua is a bad system, but it does come with its problems. I know there are loads of reviews on Johnstone's Aqua Guard, but has anyone else tried it straight onto old oil-based gloss? Johnstone’s tell you to use a coat of the Aqua undercoat, followed by two full coats of Aqua guard. I tried it with undercoat first, then without undercoat over keyed old oil-based gloss doors and skirts. It adhered just the same on both. Not just that, but the finish looked pretty much the same too. Albeit the 2 x satin compared to 1 x u/c & 1 x satin maybe had a slightly better sheen? It wasn’t really that noticeable though. Both systems covered the creamy oil in two coats, both adhered the same, so first impressions of the Johnstone’s Aqua guard satinwood were very good. It flows nicely, doesn’t wreck your brushes and leaves a nice finish. It dries durable too, and because it’s a fully water-based product, as mentioned in the opening paragraph, it will never discolour! I pick mine up online, but you can buy it from loads of different trade centres. Thing is, if I had to use an undercoat or primer and followed the manufacturer’s instructions, I would have been looking at a 3-coat system. You should really apply two topcoats of a water based trim product for durability and depth. You need to completely protect the surface. This is why I test the adhesion of these stains, if you can get away without a primer, you’re laughing. My advice; 2 coats of Johnstone’s Trade Aqua Guard is fine over old oil-based paint. Just do your prep, then get it on! No messing around… but do check the adhesion after your first coat. ME @ BSF my thoughts ? SO WHAT DO YOU THINK ? could I get away with just using two top coats of AG over the old sanded down gloss paint ? and just ditch the uncoat ? anyone ?
yes you can. The UC is there if you need it, they have now brought out a new UC for AG too. Personally, I'm not a fan of AG.... hav eyou seen my reviews on it?
Yes I have seen your reviews. Why are you not a fan ? Unfortunately The brands you mention which are better isomat , scuff x satin and bedec I cannot buy from a paintwell or screfix or any paint wholesale near me. only online. dulux heritage I can't find a brilliant white. Not a fan of their colors. Do you think Dulux Satinwood Diamond would be better than Aqua Guard ? or any other recommendations Phil ?
Exactly my findings as wellPhil, been a BM user for many a year, first with the Advance, and now Scuffx for woodwork. Thought I'd try the Aqua Gaurd on a job and wish I hadn't. First and last , spoiled by the American giants 🫡😅
I’ll watch this if you just got to the point
Stick to tictok painting tips... There's plenty of stuff on there for ya.
I don’t think Phil will miss your one view mate so jog on…..
Tbh, if you're a pro ( which is what Phil is aiming at) all of the info ( including sniffing the bristle) is key to making the life changing decisions us pro decorators are having to make day in day out. Unless you're a pro you'll never understand the break neck speed at which we have to make our selections in the merchants. I once spent a mere 3.5 hours just deciding what brush cleaner I wanted. Do you not appreciate how dedicated we are to the products we choose for our lovely customers? Keep up the procrastination Phil, we rely upon it. 👍
I agree there is only so much of silly expressions a man can take. How many times does his mouth run too fast and he has to repeat himself? Sorry to be negative but .....
I agree morgs too much time spent in the mirror, not much time on speech ..... repeating slurred words and smirks could cut the crap. I dare say he is a half decent decorator. As for a media wonabe then personally he can fund his own reliant.
Very good video Phil and I can clarify a few points with you. The Aqua Guard is fully waterbased it is a PU paint. There's also plenty of decorators who spray with it without a problem. As for the creeps or runs you have encountered, I have been using it for over 3 years now and don't have a problem with it. What you have to remember is that a lot of decorators are reluctant to use a waterbased paint not only for the finish but also the application. Aqua Guard is the nearest waterbased paint to apply and finish like an oil based paint does. Permoglaze, Manor or the old Leyland gloss are good examples of oil based paints that would start running as soon as you opened the tin but it was a skill of the trade to be able to apply it properly to get the super finish. Scuff X applies easily because it's a thixotropic paint. To the lay person this is a self undercoating paint like the old non drip paints that were available for the retail customer, they are not trade paints that were used by tradesmen. If you walked onto a job in the 80's or 90's with a non drip paint you would be laughed off it by the other trades. There's a trade off between quality and the Scuff X doesn't match up in opacity, durability or adhesion and this has been proven time and again. It's a sad state of the trade today when decorators use an inferior paint to Aqua Guard, Isolac Aqua or Caparol PU for example just because it applies easy. You said it all when you said 'If you are skilled with a brush you will find it easier to apply'. If you use it regularly and you are a good painter you will have no problem applying this paint. If you aren't very good at painting then you will spend over a £100 for a 3.78 litre tin of Scuff X. What makes the Aqua Guard even more special is that it has ' industrial strength binders' that give it its durability. It is the equivalent of a 2k paint in a waterbased paint. Caparol PU which is the nearest in strength to Aqua Guard is half as strong and this is why Aqua Guard is interior only, the extra durability makes it too brittle for exterior work with the swelling and contracting of the external wood in the different seasons.
That's lot of waffle mate. And btw thixotropic doesn't mean self undercoating 😂 it relates solely to the viscosity lowering upon agitation (brushing etc). You must be such a superior painter that you can use aqua guard with no runs when all of us so called 'pros' report exactly the same issue. Teach us the ways of the brush sir as we are clearly inferior to you
@@swatts66
You don't even know that self undercoating paints are thixotropic and you call yourself a professional 🙄
As for the pain running? Phil's video is a prime example of how you can get the paint to run. You should never apply paint directly into corners and edges but work it into them. This is the way we were taught with applying oil based and the same method applies here. You also need to make sure that the paint is stirred thoroughly before use which a lot don't do.
Also, 1 regional, 6 national and 1 global award for excellence in painting and decorating in the last 10 years may be explain why I can use it easily
@@chrisgreen5953 jesus your unsufferable aren't you 🤣 thixotropic ≠ self undercoating. Some thixotropic paints can be self undercoating (like the solo dulux/crown retail shite) but there are plenty of self undercoating paints that aren't thixotropic. And before you go tooting your horn about all these awards, you should know that the global one you supposedly won (and paid money for the pleasure of winning) is a well known scam so your basically bragging about being dumb enough to get scammed, so well done there buddy 😂
As a retired Deccie, I never thought I'd enjoy watching another guy paint doors. Good stuff Phil, you know what your talking about!
Great video, Phil. I've learnt how to tame this paint. Agreed, it really needs the UC to aid application - I had issues when I wasn't using the UC. I find I have to apply it very thin and really move the brush around to spread it so that I ensure there isn't any creep after some time. It does have a reasonable open time though if there is any creep. It sure does look good and the UC not only aids application but improved the finish. I do find though I need to hang around for it to be touch dry as some creep/runs can appear in the inside corners of the trims of doors and door frames, so I need to be able to just grab it out with my brush within the open time. I use a Purdy Sprig brush with this.
Regarding opacity, to help over sanded down oil base, I've been using two aqua undercoats.
Compared with Dulux Diamond (the only other WB I've used), I found the Diamond dried so quickly that if I spotted a run, it was too late, it pulled/flashed, so I prefer the AG as I have more time to work with it if I need to take a run out, but I am getting better at not getting runs so much.
Phil, a person with your time in the trade. Lets call a spade a spade. If YOU are getting runs with it same as we all do then it’s not right. ALSO mr green went in on me when i said i had used it in my own home on my newel posts and it had begun to wear away in no time. He said, user error. I assure you I prep more than the ‘average’ decorator. Degrease, wash down, sand (usually 2 different grades) primer/undercoat sand tops… you know.
Well, i have only ever used it twice and immediately stopped due to runs (im not babysitting paint runs all day). The one other occasion aside from my house is on a job. I went back to that job this week to complete another room (in scuff x). The rooms i have done in aqua guard are shocking! Skirts are fine, but where you would touch a door however if you weren’t using the handle have completely worn through to the undercoat. Mr green stated it has technology in it that make it impossible to be affected by hand fats etc. i can tell you this is rubbish. I have repeat customers, most of my jobs are and i have never ever experienced anything like this with isomat, scuff x is yet to be determined but i haven’t so far had an issue.
You get what you pay for i guess. Thanks for the honest video.
Hi Phil, I had the same problem with runs afterwards. Personally, I prefer the johnstones aqua satin system.
I’m not a decorator but I’d did train as a sign writer in the early 90’s so leant how to paint panels with oil based paint ready to sign write, so I’m good with painting doors and stuff with oil based paint, I have noticed how water based acrylic paints hold their colour better so I’ve tried aqua guard recently using the correct undercoat just on some architrave mainly to see how the colour holds up next to other finishes, they told me at the decorating centre to fully load the brush and lay it off as you put it on which worked in the most part but can’t say it was enjoyable, the finish is amazing I’m just not fully convinced probably just need to work with it a bit more.
A lot struggle with it, loading a brush and laying off will more than likely start getting curtains or signs of sagging. Hence I say most use a roller with it.
aqua guard as a finish looks very nice for a wb satin, but I agree the application could be "easier ". I've never used bm scuff x so it is impossible for me to compare the two, but i absolutely can't wait to give it a go at some stage.
One thing i can compare aqua guard to is dulux diamond satinwood, which im currently using on a large job. If I'm being honest i hate the stuff (dulux satin), getting quite a few tiny creeping runs, particularly on edges of the architraves and I'm being careful with my application too. I'd be tearing my hair out if i had any left 😂.
Anyway, good video Phil as always 👌🏼
hi ph,il,been using aqua guard system now for about 6 months,got use to it now,usually roll doors ledges etc with ice fusion 4 inch,same sleeve on for 6 months,lovely finish as ive had a lot of feedback of my customers,the undecoat is a hybrid and yes it is a brush wrecker,the aqua guard is pure water based brushes clean out great (arrowworthy 2inch angled oval)
thanks phil great review keep up the good work.
Good stuff, are you using the same UC as I did in the video? that washed out well.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator yes i use the jonos aqua undercoat,its a gold medalist in brush wrecking,so ive read another comment on your caprol pu satin vid that he uses joncryl with aqua guard so i think i will go down thst road.
Hi Phil, i have just finished a 6 bedroom house using the Aqua Guard on all the woodwork but used the Jonos Joncryle primer undercoat, which is fully water-based and had known problems. From oil based to waterbased, x1 Joncryle x2 Aqua Guard and it looks and feels fantastic.The Aqua undercoat being a hybrid killers your brushes so tried the Joncryle. Much better job. Kerp up the good work mate 👍
Cool. Good to know. How was the 2nd coat of Aqua Gaurd to apply on itself?
Goes on lovely Phil.
I started to use it after watching one of your videos. My other go-to is Bedec.
Great video Phil, I’ve been using Aqua Guard system for about 12 months now and the biggest issue I find are the delayed runs when using a brush. If you thin out the brush application to avoid this then then finish is compromised, applying the right amount of paint is vital so that the paint levels off to provide a nice finish. However the issue I find with this is that you have to be very careful with delayed runs appearing. As for overall finish it pretty good but the sheen level is closer to an eggshell than a satin for me. Having said all this I still think it’s a better product than Dulux and Crown WB paints. What Tikkurila system would you recommend for satin finish on internal woodwork?
@@grahamstacey3149 interesting, I find it hard work compared to other paints.
I've a few videos in the next month that you'll find interesting. I cover Caparol, Tikkurila and Tekno satin... I also touch on ScuffX and Aqua Gaurd again.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator great, look forward to these 👍
Great video phil. All i used for about 3 years . Your bang on, there's other brands that apply so much it easier. It does run so much easier compared to other brands i found . People say its applications i thinks its the paint personally
Those who like it... Will, I think, be using a roller with it most of the time .
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator agree , aqua quard is a lot more time consuming to apply always checking for runs. I used wrx satinwood at home what a dream to apply .
I've just used the Aqua Guard for the first time and probably won't be using it again because of the runs. I was using Bedec Aqua Advanced before and will be going back to it. Maybe not quite as durable as the Aqua Guard but never got any runs
I love your channel but can you please say at any point do you need to put a bit of water in to loosen up a bit. As out of the tin it’s terribly thick!?
none of these are thinned :)
What paint would you recommend for some exterior sash windows on a grade 2 listed property? Cheers phill!
Have you tried Isomat Isolac Satin... Use the aqua primer then two coats of the satin... Lovely paint.
Thin by 5%.
Goes on. Dream.
I had to paint our front door today. Had a Crown white gloss, previously opened I don’t know when, and the crappiest brushes you’ve ever seen. It was murder. The paint was pulling like mad. I thought What would Phil Beckwith think of this? I was ashamed. Lesson learned, going to buy some decent paint and new brushes and re-do it 👍
lol I'm here to help.... and make you think ;)
Hello thanks for your video. I have bought some Johnsons aqua guard after watching another video of yours and also Zinsser bulls eye 123 for the undercoat am I right I cannot use the Bullseye 123 and need to buy the Johnsons please? Its all so confusing I just want to paint my woodwork. The paint I am painting over is an oil based paint. Thank you
I'd use their undercoat TBH.
I have been using Aqua Guard with it's undercoat for a while and it is such a shame that it still runs and sacks after a while when most of it is already dry, so annoying. Last job I swore I would try something else. Is Isomat a 2 coat system Phil?
Isomat Isolac is a three coat system. Primer/Uc and two top coats.
Have a look at Dulux Heritage eggshell, thats's 2 coats. You can use the heritage uc if going over a change of colour or from bare wood etc.
Thank you I will try Isomac now and I have heard about heritage being good. I can probably sway my current customer to go with either for the whole house (more like msnsion) as long as they mix it into her Farrow and Ball colour? (Not to impressed with the opacity on that one)Which they should with heritage right? What about Isomac, can i get colours mixed?
So the only waterbased 2 coat system is BM Scuff x?
Sorry missed your reply. What about Heritage satin? Is that 2 coats?
@@ManuelaSmith-bk1zp no. Dulux Heriatge Eggshell can be 2 coats if a sound cleaned down surface.
Excellent video, and I found I had a similar problem using this compared to Caparol White Satin. It would be good if you could do a review on that
it's on it's way.. give me chance lol pu Satin I've got lined up.. a few weeks.. early August it goes live.
Nice one Phil, I have been looking forward to this one...This thing with the runs seems to crop up a lot..Dulux WB Satin was the same, the trouble is, the tech people don't listen. Jonnos, are you reading this?...sort it out along with the need for an undercoat and you'll have a winner.
I use aquaguard over a WB bridging primer, I cant be doing with that brush wrecking undercoat....
I've never heard a bad thing about ScuffX so I'll accept what people say about it..unfortunately I just can't justify the cost to people. Although the next time I need separate tins of undercoat and topcoat I may give the ScuffX a shot, assuming one can will be enough.
Tikkurilla Intact next?...thats probably a closer comparison if ScuffX is going to be the benchmark for all these paints..Intact is self priming. I used quite a bit of it
@@petra2885 yup...and the reason I just cant see tge point in 'hybrids'....its like all the good things and all the bad things of water an oil based paint in one tin
Hi Phil. Hi Handsome 😉 have you or anyone tried Crown fastflow quick dry satin white ? I was about to buy Trade AquaGuard paint for my interior wood work > doors & window frames but then noticed on the can. AG paint is for interior only. Wereras Crown fastflow quick dry satin is for both interior & exterior joinery and metalwork. Wouldn't this make Crown fast flow more durable being both interior & exterior Vs AquaGuard ? Also, Paint shops near me do not sell isomat or BM Scuff X satin. To order isomat or BM Scuff X satin paints online with postage added is extremely expensive for me. Any close alternatives ? Or should I just go with AG on both my doors and windows frames ?
Do you have a brewers, Screwfix or PaintWell near you?
I’ve yet to be convinced that’s a better product than scuff x eggshell…..maybe I’ll buy some aqua guard 🤷♂️
whats the difference between the aquaguard and aqua water which is about £20 cheaper?
i think that willbe just a normal water based paint.
aqua water will yellow slightly because they put a drop of solvent in there. Aqua guard is pure water based so won't yellow at all.
About twenty quid ;-)
Never got on with aqua guard personally. Like you had here runs seem to just come from nowhere 20 mins later. Shame, great finish otherwise just a pig to use
What roller would you recommend for this paint?
not sure as it's not a paint I'd tell people to be using, it's hard work
Thanks for your reply, what paint would you recommend for replacing gloss doors that doesn't yellowing over time and it gloss or satin? I've hear scuffx is good. Thanks
@@MrRoadruner2 ScuffX is good. But they don't do a gloss.
Isomat Isolac is good.
Bedec Aqua Advanced is good
Dulux heritage Eggshell is good.
H&G touch and scuff guard is good... But it's more eggshell than satin.
Capraol puSatin is good . The puGloss and s ok... But isn't full gloss.
Thanks for the advice! I hope you get the Porsche one day soon!
100% correct with the AQUA undercoat here, the Aquaguard behaves a lot better over the proper undercoat, if you apply to existing water/ oil based satin it seems to run terrible.
try the crown trade oil based satin that would probably be better than jono's satin for running and sagging
@@jackwardley3626 Johnos oil satin yellows super quick sadly a nono
that is the proper Uc for the Aqua Gaurd... and it didn't help me much lol
Theres no point in using anything other than Isomat or Scruff X mate. We've all been through this years ago,the whole thing. Fair for showing etc, but thoses that know are long gone from this🙌🏽
Absaloutly, scuff x far superior, likewise been through all this using these mediocre warer based paints
This is my stock satin. I use it with the Aqua undercoat, but you need separate brushes or rollers because the undercoat will kill them. The Aqua Guard washes out lovely.
For an off the shelf, on budget system, this is as good as it gets. I like Isomat too, but it's more expensive. Looks great in colours, too. And it rolls perfectly with the Two Fussy Blokes rollers.
That's a different undercoat. This undercoat is fully water based and washes out fine.
@@atAntC Strong disagree, brother. The undercoat is a bona-fide brush killer.
@@GlennPreston66 No, this UC isn't, you're probably using a hybrid, this is fully water based and washes out of all of my brushes without issue.
@@atAntC I've been using it for years, amigo. It's a fine product but but it kills your brushes eventually. Don't know what else to tell you, lol
Here’s my experiences of Aqua water based undercoat. Take a new brush and use Aqua UC for 30mins. Clean brushes throughly as recommended. Pour some white spirit into a container an agitate your cleaned brush in the solution. It’ll turn white from residue left on your brush. Definitely a brush killer if you don’t do this. Aqua Guard satin doesn’t have this issue.
Does anyone know the best decorators caulk. I’m using Soudal but it seems to slump and needs a few goes to fill larger cracks. Can anyone help?
HB42 caulk is one of the best I've used. No paint crazing, even with cheap contract matt. Dries quick, paintable after an hour . Very flexible , deep joint fill too... it's white and it stays white.
@@denniskeogh3422 thank you so much!
@@petra2885 thank you!
Exactly what Dennis said. Hb42 is the best. I order mine in boxes of 12 from dawes paints online. It really doesn't crack and craze like other caulks. The caulk itself is a bit wetter compared to geocel painters mate (if that makes sense) but once you get used to it it's good as gold.
@craigtherin890 I've just bought my last box from mad 4 tools .... they've got a offer on it .£30 for a box.
I find the undercoat ruins brushes but the top coat washes out fine👍
That's a different undercoat.
which?
Promo*SM 🤩
Benjamin moore far superior
yes, it has its place in the market.
it's not for the general painter as they won't pay for it.. maybe their customer base is also different that doesn't warrant or want to pay for the extra material paint cost?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator To be fair, with the BM paint, when you buy the tin (around 4 litres?) it works out to be around £25 per litre so it's cheaper than the AG and even the Dulux Satin now. I've only seen the BM in the 4L pot, or 3.8 or what ever it is. I've never used BM though, but I'd like to one day. I'm only a DIYer so It'll be a long time until I need to buy anything again.
Bet your a bundle of laughs when your out with your Mrs ehh talking about runs and bristles 🙈🙈
And filling cracks
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator you must drive her mad
Hello I READ THIS interesting article on the decorators forum.
Johnstone’s Aqua Guard Satinwood - Two Coats. ⚠ Undercoat is not necessary.
Here what the Article says
Johnstone’s Trade Aqua Guard Satin is a fully water-based satinwood designed for internal woodwork. The benefits of this over the Aqua Satinwood are; this is more durable and will not yellow at all. Not that the Aqua is a bad system, but it does come with its problems.
I know there are loads of reviews on Johnstone's Aqua Guard, but has anyone else tried it straight onto old oil-based gloss? Johnstone’s tell you to use a coat of the Aqua undercoat, followed by two full coats of Aqua guard.
I tried it with undercoat first, then without undercoat over keyed old oil-based gloss doors and skirts. It adhered just the same on both. Not just that, but the finish looked pretty much the same too. Albeit the 2 x satin compared to 1 x u/c & 1 x satin maybe had a slightly better sheen? It wasn’t really that noticeable though.
Both systems covered the creamy oil in two coats, both adhered the same, so first impressions of the Johnstone’s Aqua guard satinwood were very good. It flows nicely, doesn’t wreck your brushes and leaves a nice finish.
It dries durable too, and because it’s a fully water-based product, as mentioned in the opening paragraph, it will never discolour! I pick mine up online, but you can buy it from loads of different trade centres.
Thing is, if I had to use an undercoat or primer and followed the manufacturer’s instructions, I would have been looking at a 3-coat system. You should really apply two topcoats of a water based trim product for durability and depth. You need to completely protect the surface. This is why I test the adhesion of these stains, if you can get away without a primer, you’re laughing.
My advice; 2 coats of Johnstone’s Trade Aqua Guard is fine over old oil-based paint. Just do your prep, then get it on! No messing around… but do check the adhesion after your first coat.
ME @ BSF my thoughts ? SO WHAT DO YOU THINK ? could I get away with just using two top coats of AG over the old sanded down gloss paint ? and just ditch the uncoat ? anyone ?
yes you can.
The UC is there if you need it, they have now brought out a new UC for AG too.
Personally, I'm not a fan of AG.... hav eyou seen my reviews on it?
Yes I have seen your reviews. Why are you not a fan ? Unfortunately The brands you mention which are better isomat , scuff x satin and bedec I cannot buy from a paintwell or screfix or any paint wholesale near me. only online. dulux heritage I can't find a brilliant white. Not a fan of their colors. Do you think Dulux Satinwood Diamond would be better than Aqua Guard ? or any other recommendations Phil ?
isomat is sold at Paintwell@@bsfbestshortfilmsonyoutube
Exactly my findings as wellPhil, been a BM user for many a year, first with the Advance, and now Scuffx for woodwork. Thought I'd try the Aqua Gaurd on a job and wish I hadn't. First and last , spoiled by the American giants 🫡😅
If you're using ScuffX, youve been spoilt ;)
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I cant afford Scuffx for woodwork. what is the next best cheaper alternative ? if any ?