It seems fine using the original shims. The BritPart ones must be slightly thicker, but obviously doesn't need much to jam it up. Hope you get/got to the bottom of the issue!
On mine it was a combination of drive members and sun/planet diff gears. Before about 15-20 degrees on the jacked-up wheel with handbrake on, after less than 5 degrees.
I had a clunking. I bought new drive shafts. Still there. Sounded like it was coming from the diff. Turned out to be the radius arm bushings had shrunk a little and the whole axle would move back and forth slightly creating the clunk on pick up and over drive..
Some stuff is weird, my old rangy developed a death wobble on the steering, not power assisted, tried everything, new steering box, panhard rod, ball joints, swivle pins... It got that bad, on the M6 motor way i had to stop from 70mph...every time it happened, i had to stop the vehicle. Then i changed the front axle casing...fine forever. We measured the old one up, perfect....i really dont know why...just landrover land.
Just rebuilt my Salisbury diff with the same Britpart thrust washers. It was REALLY tight and difficult to get the diff gears to move. I am fearful that they will quickly wear leaving metal particles in the diff.
My thoughts exactly! I have a feeling they are too thick - I have not seen any new originals to compare with On the original diff for the axle on the bench (not the 110 NATO) I put a dial gauge onto the splined gear and the lift was a surprising 0.035'' However, there was no play when the diff was in its standard position (vertical) and I turned the CV's to simulate the vehicle driving in a straight line. I have a feeling that the crown wheel/pinion backlash is too much = there is no end float, so I need to remove a shim from one side to put in the other So I have bitten the bullet and bought a tool to get the bearings off without destruction!!! www.vevor.ca/bearing-inner-race-tool-c_10331/vevor-carrier-amp-pinion-bearing-puller-nbsp-clamshell-b-p_010910863646
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks Mike. Funny, I just bought the same one to do this Salisbury diff, rather than cutting them off like I did a couple years ago. This tool works great
When you replace the curved shims , you need to reset the preload on the gears with the 2 shims top and bottom there is something like 4 different sizes for these !
It seems fine using the original shims. The BritPart ones must be slightly thicker, but obviously doesn't need much to jam it up. Hope you get/got to the bottom of the issue!
My salsbury clunks once on first take off in the morning then nothing all day until the first take off the next morning. Its got me stumped!
Probably due to oil circulation cushioning the gears
On mine it was a combination of drive members and sun/planet diff gears. Before about 15-20 degrees on the jacked-up wheel with handbrake on, after less than 5 degrees.
I had a clunking. I bought new drive shafts. Still there. Sounded like it was coming from the diff. Turned out to be the radius arm bushings had shrunk a little and the whole axle would move back and forth slightly creating the clunk on pick up and over drive..
Tiny details eh?
A Arm ball joint on top of the differential casing. That's probably where the clunking comes from.
No - it clunks when you turn the wheel
Some stuff is weird, my old rangy developed a death wobble on the steering, not power assisted, tried everything, new steering box, panhard rod, ball joints, swivle pins...
It got that bad, on the M6 motor way i had to stop from 70mph...every time it happened, i had to stop the vehicle.
Then i changed the front axle casing...fine forever.
We measured the old one up, perfect....i really dont know why...just landrover land.
Yeap - nightmare on Rover Street....
I was thinking drive line clunk but at the end of the video you said you tried that.
So many things to eliminate...
Mike did you get any further with this??
Yes, there was an issue with the backlash between crown wheel and pinion - search my home page for axle, and you will find the tools I used
What are the comparative thicknesses of the old vs new shims?
Will have to check
Just rebuilt my Salisbury diff with the same Britpart thrust washers. It was REALLY tight and difficult to get the diff gears to move. I am fearful that they will quickly wear leaving metal particles in the diff.
My thoughts exactly!
I have a feeling they are too thick - I have not seen any new originals to compare with
On the original diff for the axle on the bench (not the 110 NATO)
I put a dial gauge onto the splined gear and the lift was a surprising 0.035''
However, there was no play when the diff was in its standard position (vertical) and I turned the CV's to simulate the vehicle driving in a straight line.
I have a feeling that the crown wheel/pinion backlash is too much = there is no end float, so I need to remove a shim from one side to put in the other
So I have bitten the bullet and bought a tool to get the bearings off without destruction!!!
www.vevor.ca/bearing-inner-race-tool-c_10331/vevor-carrier-amp-pinion-bearing-puller-nbsp-clamshell-b-p_010910863646
I have that tool for my 101, very good. Also helped on the lt95.
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks Mike. Funny, I just bought the same one to do this Salisbury diff, rather than cutting them off like I did a couple years ago. This tool works great
Transfer case
Applied transmission brake and all U joints are tight, so not the transfer case!
Driveshaft slip joint?
Easy on the throttle and forget the clunks.
When you replace the curved shims , you need to reset the preload on the gears with the 2 shims top and bottom there is something like 4 different sizes for these !
No - the shim is 607169 - one size only
You are confusing with shims 607188/9/0/1
@@BritannicaRestorations you're right mistaken it with the lt230 centerdiff .
Lol! Easy mistake to make!
If you put the new shims in you can create a locked diff....giving you Canada's first drift Landy...😂
Great on ice!
@@BritannicaRestorations 😂😂😂
So thats how you make cheap limited slip diff 😅
Yeap!
Cluck click every trip.... That's what Uncle Jimmy said, did he have a Land Rover?
Gary, I think that was to keep the kiddies and corpses in place....
Good half a bottle of Jamesons to sort that one out.
Indeed! Least you forget about yesterday's nightmares!
My planet gears are stupidly slack & clonking, a Job for the new year i guess 😬