I had heard of heating the plastic in hot water but I had not seen it explained like this before. The tutorial was very helpful. Thanks for sharing it.
Good tips. After receiving the new minis from the Clan Invasion this week and having a couple looking wonky or not quite 'right', I'll be tweaking a few using these methods for sure.
The hot water dipping method (shown above) works for all the parts on the new plastic minis as well as the Alpha Strike ones that CGL released several years back. To one extent or another it even works with the old plastic minis from the 3rd edition box set too. If you're referring to the pewter metal minis I recommend get a pair of needle nose pliers, a soft cloth or something to avoid making marks on the soft metal, then slowly bending it into whatever shape you're trying to get. It is helpful to study the bent part first to find the apex of the bend and then apply gentle pressure just above and just below the bend to straighten it out. If you are bending a straight piece (ex you want an arm bent, but it is one straight piece), make small V shaped cut(s) where you want the bend, then use the same technique as above to gently bend the piece into the position you want towards the tiny cuts. If there are still noticeable gaps where you made cuts, you can always fill in or over it with a small amount of green stuff or other hard drying putty/epoxy to get a solid transition (which will be covered by paint anyway). Hope this helps!
I didn't cover the shadow hawk barrel because I did previously in the Reshaping Plastic Mechs video from a year ago. Pewter and lead can just be gently bent back to shape or smooth jaw pliers or protected surfaces if needed.
@@CamoSpecsOnline Looks like there is some work to do. There are two Partisans tanks that must be restored. Thank you for your attention to the details. :) I look forwards to more.
Try bending it well past where you wanted it to be with the hot water and then after it's completely cool or dunked in cold water see how it does. If it doesn't creep back, try to bend it slightly without heat to the correct position.
You are really inspiring me to get back to painting mechs. I have several hundred models, many unpainted. I even have several of the very rare 1st generation casts. Battlemasters, Warhammers, and a few of the oversized Marauders.
I feel it man, I boxed all my minis up 2 years ago to move and have yet to unbox them, even after I got a desk set up with a mini paint booth. I think this weekend I'm finally going to start cleaning up and unboxing a few! B1B's videos are insanely helpful, you should check out some of the others he has through CamoSpecsOnline, especially the super easy tutorials for using contrast paints!
I have watched almost all of his videos. I’m just getting back into painting after being away from the hobby for almost 20 years. I am starting with D&D fantasy stuff now, but I can hear the mechs calling. I have spent a lot of money in the last 6 months buying paints (including contrast), brushes, paint booth and air brush set up. All I really need is the inspiration I am finding here.
I was Active AF for 12 years in Bones and then 4 years in the 135 as a reservist. Recently stopped flying for the military and work as an inspection team for UAV contracts to fill out my 20+ years for retirement. Glad to hear you enjoy the channel content and that you're back in the game and starting up the hobby again.
I went USAFA in the late 80s. Flew EC 130Hs for 6 years then slicks for 3. Also spent 12 yrs active then joined the guard as a full timer and flew EC130 E and Js. Medically retired with a total of 30 years. I have many friends who flew B-1s. Paul Tibbets and Terri Koudelka are a few. They may be before your time though.
I've had some similar issues ono occasion. Sometimes you have to overbend the area as it will potentially creep back. Also if it's hot in your area or you leave your minis in a warm vehicle for a few hours for example, they can get out of shape again.
Are there particular paints that chip worse than others if I use this technique? I have already painted a wonky catapult with some Model Master enamel, but it would be great if I can bend it a little without completely messing up the paint job. Great video!
Not that I know of, so I would go slowly and perhaps try using a hair dryer to warm the entire minature which will keep some flexibility in the paint. I can't promise you it won't crack though but if you're wanting to try it, that's how I would attempt to fix a bend on a painted mini.
The metal versions of several of the AGOAC mechs are already released by Iron Wind Metals so you can get the metal option parts for the Catapult, and Locust etc. already if you want to upgrade you plastic minis. It's great if you want the metal version and then you'll also have the option parts left over to use to modify the plastic versions.
Yes, but there is a risk of cracking or chipping or even peeling of the paint depending on how much movement occurs, the type of paint, and sealer used (if any). I would recommend trying just hot water from the tap/faucet in a bowl first and see, then work up to a bit hotter if you have to. Regardless there is a risk.
I always tell folks that if you feel your miniature is not up to standards and not within reason to be repaired then you should absolutely contact CGL regarding the problem. I haven't heard anyone with damaged or warped mechs not getting them replaced. I do believe CGL is a bit swamped at this moment so replies may be delayed a bit but if you're not happy, give them the chance to make it right.
Considering we've gotten the news this week of wave one of the Kickstarter shipping, this is really well timed. Great stuff as usual.
Yup, got the notice as well. Ready for them to be here and thank you!
I had heard of heating the plastic in hot water but I had not seen it explained like this before. The tutorial was very helpful. Thanks for sharing it.
You’re welcome, it really helps get things looking better.
Thanks for this! I’ve always been nervous to try reposing stuff but this helped so much.
Glad it was helpful!
Fantastic. The warped models has always been a deterrent for getting the new sets. This should help with that.
It's definitely 5-10 minutes of time well spent to make them look how they were meant.
Always been nervous about doing the hot water thing. Now that I've seen it, I think I can do that.
If you're not sure, use tweezers or some other grabby tool. No one wants to get burned!
Good tips. After receiving the new minis from the Clan Invasion this week and having a couple looking wonky or not quite 'right', I'll be tweaking a few using these methods for sure.
B1BFlyer, BattleMech chiropractor.
Just used this to straighten out a Marauder AC5 and a pair of Dire Wolves right arms, worked great
Fantastic, glad it was easy to follow and worked well!
Can't wait to get my wave 1 shipment!
Same for us
My Warhammer's left PPC thanks you
As always Ryan, fantastic job! You da man!!
I appreciate that, thanks!
Cool informative vid I could use this to fix my shadowhawk. Would you know of one that helps with bent pu'der parts like gun barrels a more.
The hot water dipping method (shown above) works for all the parts on the new plastic minis as well as the Alpha Strike ones that CGL released several years back. To one extent or another it even works with the old plastic minis from the 3rd edition box set too. If you're referring to the pewter metal minis I recommend get a pair of needle nose pliers, a soft cloth or something to avoid making marks on the soft metal, then slowly bending it into whatever shape you're trying to get. It is helpful to study the bent part first to find the apex of the bend and then apply gentle pressure just above and just below the bend to straighten it out. If you are bending a straight piece (ex you want an arm bent, but it is one straight piece), make small V shaped cut(s) where you want the bend, then use the same technique as above to gently bend the piece into the position you want towards the tiny cuts. If there are still noticeable gaps where you made cuts, you can always fill in or over it with a small amount of green stuff or other hard drying putty/epoxy to get a solid transition (which will be covered by paint anyway). Hope this helps!
I didn't cover the shadow hawk barrel because I did previously in the Reshaping Plastic Mechs video from a year ago. Pewter and lead can just be gently bent back to shape or smooth jaw pliers or protected surfaces if needed.
@@CamoSpecsOnline Looks like there is some work to do. There are two Partisans tanks that must be restored. Thank you for your attention to the details. :) I look forwards to more.
Cool cool cool
Thanks Great Video!
You're welcome!
I tried this for the missile pods on my timberwolf, but it seems the plastic just goes back to its previous positioning by the next day.. any tips?
Try bending it well past where you wanted it to be with the hot water and then after it's completely cool or dunked in cold water see how it does. If it doesn't creep back, try to bend it slightly without heat to the correct position.
What is your background? I’m a retired AF EWO/WSO.
You are really inspiring me to get back to painting mechs. I have several hundred models, many unpainted. I even have several of the very rare 1st generation casts. Battlemasters, Warhammers, and a few of the oversized Marauders.
I feel it man, I boxed all my minis up 2 years ago to move and have yet to unbox them, even after I got a desk set up with a mini paint booth. I think this weekend I'm finally going to start cleaning up and unboxing a few! B1B's videos are insanely helpful, you should check out some of the others he has through CamoSpecsOnline, especially the super easy tutorials for using contrast paints!
I have watched almost all of his videos. I’m just getting back into painting after being away from the hobby for almost 20 years. I am starting with D&D fantasy stuff now, but I can hear the mechs calling. I have spent a lot of money in the last 6 months buying paints (including contrast), brushes, paint booth and air brush set up. All I really need is the inspiration I am finding here.
I was Active AF for 12 years in Bones and then 4 years in the 135 as a reservist. Recently stopped flying for the military and work as an inspection team for UAV contracts to fill out my 20+ years for retirement. Glad to hear you enjoy the channel content and that you're back in the game and starting up the hobby again.
I went USAFA in the late 80s. Flew EC 130Hs for 6 years then slicks for 3. Also spent 12 yrs active then joined the guard as a full timer and flew EC130 E and Js. Medically retired with a total of 30 years. I have many friends who flew B-1s. Paul Tibbets and Terri Koudelka are a few. They may be before your time though.
Thank you TEX for that sexy sexy voice! Like honey poured over gravel.
Indeed LOL
my shadow hawk AC/5 was bent to the left, so i dipped it in boiling water and set it straight, but 2 days later it was back to where it was before
I've had some similar issues ono occasion. Sometimes you have to overbend the area as it will potentially creep back. Also if it's hot in your area or you leave your minis in a warm vehicle for a few hours for example, they can get out of shape again.
@@CamoSpecsOnline i live in florida but my minis don’t leave my room which is constantly at 69 degrees thanks to my fan
Are there particular paints that chip worse than others if I use this technique? I have already painted a wonky catapult with some Model Master enamel, but it would be great if I can bend it a little without completely messing up the paint job. Great video!
Not that I know of, so I would go slowly and perhaps try using a hair dryer to warm the entire minature which will keep some flexibility in the paint. I can't promise you it won't crack though but if you're wanting to try it, that's how I would attempt to fix a bend on a painted mini.
@@CamoSpecsOnline Sounds good, thanks for the help.
Do you have more tips we're we get extra weapons for conversions or alternativ mech Variants?
The metal versions of several of the AGOAC mechs are already released by Iron Wind Metals so you can get the metal option parts for the Catapult, and Locust etc. already if you want to upgrade you plastic minis. It's great if you want the metal version and then you'll also have the option parts left over to use to modify the plastic versions.
@@CamoSpecsOnline thank for the help 😊
Can this be done after the models have been painted?
Yes, but there is a risk of cracking or chipping or even peeling of the paint depending on how much movement occurs, the type of paint, and sealer used (if any). I would recommend trying just hot water from the tap/faucet in a bowl first and see, then work up to a bit hotter if you have to. Regardless there is a risk.
I have tried this with the ppc of the battlemaster but it always comes back.
I always tell folks that if you feel your miniature is not up to standards and not within reason to be repaired then you should absolutely contact CGL regarding the problem. I haven't heard anyone with damaged or warped mechs not getting them replaced. I do believe CGL is a bit swamped at this moment so replies may be delayed a bit but if you're not happy, give them the chance to make it right.