After moving to larger property 2 years ago, we quickly came to the conclusion that we needed to upgrade from a push mower. I had a few riding mowers in mind and was about to ready to make a purchase, but unbeknownst to me, my father in law came over and surprised me with a new John Deere E100. Within the first 10 hrs of operation the deck belt has broke due to rubbing against the plastic pulley covers on the deck. It came with a 50hr warranty, so it was fixed/replaced for free. Unfortunately though, the next time I drove the mower after replacing the deck belt, the transmission belt broke. So the local repair store (via the warranty) had to come out and pick it up themselves. Aside from those speed bumps at the beginning, the mower has has worked well and I try to maintain it the best I can knowing that it is the bottom of the line John Deere mowers (again, this was a gift, so I am somewhat obligated to ride it until it dies). With all that said, since the general geometry of the E100 and E110 are 99% identical, would it be possible to change the plastic transmission casing from the E100 to the aluminum as shown on the E110? I currently have 46hrs on the mower that I use to cut about an acre. The acre though is not completely flat which means I ride a little slower compared to mowing 'open country'.
I'm sure this could be done but there would be a lot to consider when making this change. This will change the whole drive style of the machine. It would require new drive pedals and linkages and controls. It would be a pretty extensive job to make this change.
I used a Craftsman YT4000 with the 24hp V-twin for several years before the deck rusted away and collapsed (the machine was a hand-me-down.) I replaced the machine with another secondhand Craftsman that had that 19hp single that is in the E110, and didn't like the loss in power and torque. So, I decided to "do it right", and went shopping for a new Deere. To get the power I sometimes needed to climb inclines, I stepped up to the E120, with its 20hp V-twin. Definitely a nice machine. If I wasn't taking care of properties other than my own, the E110 probably would have been enough, and certainly would have been easier on my wallet. The E120 gets an upgraded seat, too. ;-) Thanks for sharing.
Great video Brent! Thanks for sharing the difference! I will still be going to the Z900 models, diesel. Once again thanks for everything you do! Have a great and awesome day!
I’m surprised the head gasket failure rate on these Briggs motors has not been mentioned. So many of these motors blow head gaskets with low hours, such a poor design. Easy fix but most won’t want to tackle job. I replaced the gasket on My D110 (same motor ) at 90hrs, neighbour doing his at 85 hrs.
Hey there Brent, I’ve heard mixed opinions on Briggs and Stratton motors nowadays. My grandpa swears by them but a buddy of mine says the ones they make nowadays aren’t as good as they used to be. I’m a 21 year old guy just bought a house on a half acre just looking for a mower that’ll last me a good while. Thanks man I like your videos.
Hey Nick. With just a half acre you will be fine with a Briggs and Stratton. Just maintain it and like every gas engine put a fuel stabilizer in it during winter when not in use and use 100% gas and trickle charger on battery in winter as well. If you did decide to move up in mower size after quite a few years you will still get good money out of a Deere mower.
From my experience after buying a JD E100 at Lowes, this guy did NOT discuss the most troublesome problem with the E100. The big problem is the deck. It will not cut through heavy thick grass. it shutters and shakes due to poor design of the deck. The routing of the deck drive belt runs from the engine around the idle/clutch spring loaded pulley to the left blade, then crossing the back of the deck to the right blade pully , around a fixed idler pully, back to the engine. The problem is if you hit a patch of thick grass the left blade pulls the spring on the clutch/idle, effectively increasing the length of the belt, so it is too loose to drive the right blade. The slipping belt on the right blade makes the mower shake violently. John Deere supposedly fixed this by an adjustable cable bracket on the early E100 model. On the later model, I bought, JD welded the bracket so there is no adjustment on the cable. When I talked to unsatisfactorily.
This is interesting. When I start the Mow an Acre series back up this summer I will pay attention and see if I notice this. Thanks for bringing this up!
Sounds like you’re somewhat mechanically inclined so may I ask why the hell you would buy an E100? Like I get it when women do it but anyone who knows how to work a wrench knows to get a mower that doesn’t have a plastic trans.
@@nicholassabella8338 I think you would be fine going synthetic or conventional. Most of the time people use synthetic for longevity but if you are changing you oil every year then it doesn't really matter.
did you ever think about doing a video comparing the S240 and X350? They both have the same size decks, same engine, transmission, wheels, steering wheel, seat. So the challenge is knowing what their differences are and why someone would choose one mower over the other.
@@WesternEquipment Nice, I'd like to see that. I'd go for the S240 myself, not because of the price but because the lighter weight would make it more zippy. I like zippy, hahahaha. If you mostly mow grass, it would probably do a better job climbing hills. But if I lived in a place like upper New York state where they get the heavier snow, I'd probably choose the X350 because I'd assume the heavier weight would make it better for plowing heavy New York snow.
Before spending $2k+ on one of these new, you can go to FB or CL and find a low to mid hour used X300 series for not much more. You will have a 22hp Kawasaki V-twin engine and Tuff Torq transmission that will far out last these disposable riders. Otherwise Brent you do a great job of reviewing the products and going over features so that everyone can understand.
I had the same idea, but for some reason in my area any riding mowers posted on FB or CL sell like hotcakes. I've been looking for months and each time I find a decent mower by the time I make it to pickup it has been sold from underneath me. So aggravating.
Great video! I'm hoping to buy either the E100 or E110 in the next few days. I'm ok with getting either but you gave me all of the info I need to feel like I know what I'm getting for my money. The extra $200 for the differences you pointed out seem worth it but I want to have one this weekend.
E100 are very rare! I see alot of d105 then a e100.... i think out off all them the e120 most popular most durable most smoothest ride i know i got one myself love that 20 hp v twin engine!
@@WesternEquipment that's true! That why I dont see any at my local home depot they bought em all up! All thats left is toro and cub cadet... those brand of mowers suck!🤣😂😁💯
Videos on the E100 are pretty damn rare for some reason, so thanks for the video. You showed the main differences between the two mowers but I'm still having a hard time understanding why someone would choose one mower over the other. The price difference is so small that it's not much of a factor. Can one mower do a job that the other mower can't do? From your description, it sounds like if you have an acre or more to mow, then you'd want to go with the E110 because the pedals are easier to push, but if you have less than an acre, then either mower is fine. What about mowing hills and ditches or towing a cart or lawn sweeper or plowing snow? Would one mower be better than the other? Do you know what the torque rating is for those transmissions? By the way, I heard about problems with the D105 transmission flying apart, but I haven't heard that about the E100 yet. Did John Deere fix that? Check this out, this guy upgraded his D105 with a K66 transmission. th-cam.com/video/mxV98Y1QOu4/w-d-xo.html talk about a HUGE upgrade wow!
Thanks for the comment. I would say the E110 is overall a better tractor. The cast aluminum transmission on the E110 is rated at 231.4 Nm and the composite transmission on the E100 is rated at 200 Nm. Therefore on hills and ditches and pulling carts or pushing snow I think the E110 would outperform the E100 since it will have the higher rated transmission and an extra 1.5 HP at the engine. I also think you hit the nail on the head bringing up the application the mower is being used for. In my opinion the E100 more than likely should stick to strictly mowing and if a person needs to do more then they should look into the E110.
@@WesternEquipment ok, thanks! 200Nm for the E100, that's not bad, better than I thought it would be. That should be enough to mow some hills and ditches. It would be interesting to see what it could do. At least you don't have to worry about it losing torque from overheating or leaking oil. That transmission might not be so bad after all, especially since it's had a few years of development behind it. Somebody needs to give it a torture test and find out! hint... hint... hint... hint...
I will see what we can do. E series mowers are becoming hard to get ahold of since it is late in mowing season and due to factory hold ups. Might have to try to put this out spring of next year.
awesome...was deciding between Husq vs. JD, Most things point to JD for little better reliability. hate to give up my 74 cub..but want lighter, quieter, more comfortable. thinking Base JD...but Not the 100 now after watching this. thinking of the 130 with bumper and smoother better engine...which I probably don't need for just my lawn cutting. Man, so Much Plastic
Neither engine is strong enough. Pay couple hundred more and get the 24 HP engine . Why? Because most people riding this thing are at least 250 pounds plus add an attachment and hilly landscape and you will always wish you had stronger engine. You can also snow plow with this but it helps to have a stronger eng. I own the one with 24HP and it still challenges the engine while mowing over small hills. Unfortunately mine developed an oil leak in the first 10 hours. There are plenty of Chinese parts on this "American built" machine as other videos have demonstrated. If you take one to be serviced ,even when under warranty you better have another one while you wait. Extremely loud machine. I'm using it to mow about 2 acres. I will try Toro 30 IN. Time Master-walk behind as a possible alternative next summer.Not really disappointed, just saying it.
Brent, I bought the E100 in April 2019 for use on my 1.5+ acre lawn in CT with some mild slopes. I typically tow a Cyclone Rake for grass collection and for leaf collection in the fall. Both functions of the Cyclone Rake have saved me many hours of toil. Problem: my tractor seized up just as I was pulling it into my shed last fall. It suddenly would not go in reverse. Attempts to fix it this week proved fruitless. The stick will not move because the main shaft into the transmission is dead frozen. I think I underestimated the load requirements of my yard / equipment setup and now I have a dead tractor. Any options other than to replace the transmission myself are too expensive. I now realize I should have purchased a more powerful model. I was quoted a price from a dealer for a replacement transmission (part only) and would like to know if you can offer me any better options. I would upgrade to a more powerful unit if I could do a trade with someone to mitigate the loss.
I wish I had a better option for you but it sounds like you are on the right track. I would look into selling your seized up mower to someone that deals in used parts and use that money to go towards a larger mower. Again, I wish I had a better option but I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I know I'm to late to help you,but the shift fork in those transmissions are often easily bent and when they do they pop out of their intended position and cant move. It's often not to bad to fix,but own a cyclone rake classic and it is pretty heavy when full. I'd say a larger mower would be best
As a owner of the E100, I do not recommend it. The plastic trans and lower HP makes a big difference. I would never go with anything less than a hydrostat trans. in the furure. Personally I don't don't think ANY manufacturer should sell a plastic trans. I have like 58 hours on it and it's already showing signs of problems. Not to mention I have already had to replace idler pully's and the blade brake spring. It pains me to see such an Iconic company put their name on such low quality products. ALSO, I am on my second battery and the tractor has stopped charging so I may be on a 3rd one next season.
Sorry to hear what’s going on. It’s never a good feeling to invest in something and it not hold up. I’m with you on going with Hydrostat trans. We’ve put out a comparison to E110 which is what I’d be in over the E100.
I just purchased a L105. It ran great when I picked it up...I stored it for a week n went to go start it...fired rite up but stalled rite away..started n stalled few times. Battery died now. Any tricks or ideas to try when I charge the battery....it seemed if I rocked the mower it started again but not stay running
If you haven't done this already I would put fresh gas in it and change the fuel filter after you change the battery. Could be the plastic manual fuel pump on the side of the engine. If this dos not help then you made need to clean the carburetor.
Hey Brent, thanks for the video. My E100 deck just broke and I'm trying to figure out if other John Deere decks can fit to the E100 or if they are specific to the models?
Well since the E100's are not being made anymore I do not have prices on them but the piece of the new comparable models S100 and S110 would be around $1699 and $1899. Thanks for watching!
As a small engine mechanic, I am not a fan of the new E series. It may look the exact same as the D series, but things have gotten cheap. The hood hinge/support is now flimsy PLASTIC. The bracket for the PTO cable is now PLASTIC. They no longer use a dual steering rod setup (more durable). They now use a single steering arm coming from the stearing gear that steers both wheels. And the icing on the cake? An unreliable briggs engine. A customer brought one in yesterday, 8.5 hours, and the PTO cable popped out because the plastic bracket is too flimsy. Also, the throttle control is ceased up. The bean counters clearly got ahold of the E series. Id only reccomend these if you have a rental property.
Just bought one. It’s starting but won’t go forward even when depressing clutch and turning off p brake.. dosent the right pedals direct it forward and back. I’m losing my religion
Yes, the pedal(s) on your right move the machine. You have to make sure if its an E100 that you select either forward or reverse on the right hand side by the seat. If it is an E110 you will have two pedals, one for forward and one for reverse.
I just wish John Deere would use steel hood and not plastic witch cracks and breaks overtime from the heat of the engine and the sun beating down on it
I see this comment all the time and I totally get it but you also have to consider the benefits of the plastic hoods. Cooler when operating, no dents, dings or rust, less expensive to replace if it does happen to get damaged. But I understand it would be possible for a metal one to last longer.
@@WesternEquipment for mine it’s true. I’ve spent over 20+ hours fixing the damn thing and getting replacement parts because the warranty expires right before they start having issues 👀
Don't get me wrong they are still pretty durable but for the price difference I would strongly consider the E110 for the cast aluminum transmission and true hydrostatic drive functions.
One big difference is you can fix most problems on the CVT in the future, you can't on the hydrostatic. My dad only had 128 hours and 5 years old, JD quoted him over 1000.00 to fix the hydrostatic transmission. D130 was only 1799.00 new.
People make way too big of a deal about a plastic case on the E100. Gears inside are metal, you can still service it for minor problems, if it did fail you can put a new one in for 350.00 unlike a hydro that will cost you over a 1000.00. They dont overheat and lose power on small grades. I have seen more hydro fail with under 200 hours than the CVT.
The new "plastic" airplanes will survive far more than the old aluminum ones. It is all in how they designed it and the kind of "plastic." Time will tell.
They're just so plasticky hard to believe people could actually call this a tractor it's a piece of plastic and one that's obviously not going to last anytime you hit anything big or serious you know it's going to break it Read the reviews on the internet any type of actual brush or anything you hit you're going to tear those up in no time
This is why there are various sized and lineups of mowers. This series is the lowest end and they are designed to strictly mow grass in residential areas. Almost every brand that produces mower follows this pattern so they have a mower for any customer and any application.
there's a guy who's owned a D105 for 5 years and he's been making youtube videos of it. He says he hasn't had any problems yet and that his transmission was made after the previous model was recalled. 5 years with the cheapest model John Deere lawn tractor with no problems sounds pretty good to me. Not a lot of hours on it though, I think he still has less than 100 hours on it, but he looks like he's about 250 pounds and he drives it like a maniac. th-cam.com/video/-i_O55Tbsbg/w-d-xo.html
I have a e100 and i absolutely.... hate it.!. Built like crap and at 2.3 hours the motor leaks oil and it has a extremely hard start!! Plus home depot doesn't want to take it back.. piece of shit. Lets argue.
@Faraz Nabibaksh depends on the dealer if they would send somebody out to pick it up. Some Deere dealers don’t sell a lot of mowers and don’t do pick up but if you are in a populated area they probably sell a lot of mowers and pick up is a common thing. There could be a pick up fee but they might work with you on that. First call the dealer to see if it’s under warranty.
John Deere has certainly given their brand a BAD NAME WITH A POLYMER TRANSMISSION!!! ARE YOU SHITTING ME!!! $1600 FOR A FUCKING PLASTIC TRANSMISSION!!! I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER BRAND NEW JOHN DEERE MOWER!!!
perfect 100% why can't all reviews be this good!! now please do the whole line up of deere mowers blahah
Wow, thanks! And stay tuned, there is a lot more to come.
After moving to larger property 2 years ago, we quickly came to the conclusion that we needed to upgrade from a push mower. I had a few riding mowers in mind and was about to ready to make a purchase, but unbeknownst to me, my father in law came over and surprised me with a new John Deere E100.
Within the first 10 hrs of operation the deck belt has broke due to rubbing against the plastic pulley covers on the deck. It came with a 50hr warranty, so it was fixed/replaced for free. Unfortunately though, the next time I drove the mower after replacing the deck belt, the transmission belt broke. So the local repair store (via the warranty) had to come out and pick it up themselves. Aside from those speed bumps at the beginning, the mower has has worked well and I try to maintain it the best I can knowing that it is the bottom of the line John Deere mowers (again, this was a gift, so I am somewhat obligated to ride it until it dies). With all that said, since the general geometry of the E100 and E110 are 99% identical, would it be possible to change the plastic transmission casing from the E100 to the aluminum as shown on the E110?
I currently have 46hrs on the mower that I use to cut about an acre. The acre though is not completely flat which means I ride a little slower compared to mowing 'open country'.
I'm sure this could be done but there would be a lot to consider when making this change. This will change the whole drive style of the machine. It would require new drive pedals and linkages and controls. It would be a pretty extensive job to make this change.
Get the better mower e105. Then buy e100decals an put on the e105.your relative won’t know the difference!
Great vid Brent started watching last week keep up the good work
Thanks!
I used a Craftsman YT4000 with the 24hp V-twin for several years before the deck rusted away and collapsed (the machine was a hand-me-down.) I replaced the machine with another secondhand Craftsman that had that 19hp single that is in the E110, and didn't like the loss in power and torque.
So, I decided to "do it right", and went shopping for a new Deere. To get the power I sometimes needed to climb inclines, I stepped up to the E120, with its 20hp V-twin. Definitely a nice machine. If I wasn't taking care of properties other than my own, the E110 probably would have been enough, and certainly would have been easier on my wallet.
The E120 gets an upgraded seat, too. ;-)
Thanks for sharing.
Great info thanks for sharing
Lets jump up to 2023, S100 is around $2,399 now.
"GIVE THIS MAN A BEER!"(Stone Cold voice) 🍺
Haha CHEERS! Thanks for watching!
Great video Brent! Thanks for sharing the difference! I will still be going to the Z900 models, diesel. Once again thanks for everything you do! Have a great and awesome day!
Thanks for being such a loyal subscriber!
I have 2019 E100 has it the cast aluminum housing and a forward and reverse bought a a john deere dealer
I’m surprised the head gasket failure rate on these Briggs motors has not been mentioned.
So many of these motors blow head gaskets with low hours, such a poor design. Easy fix but most won’t want to tackle job.
I replaced the gasket on My D110 (same motor ) at 90hrs, neighbour doing his at 85 hrs.
I did not know this! I haven’t heard complaints of this until now. I will have to look into it. Thanks for the comment and for watching!
Hey there Brent, I’ve heard mixed opinions on Briggs and Stratton motors nowadays. My grandpa swears by them but a buddy of mine says the ones they make nowadays aren’t as good as they used to be. I’m a 21 year old guy just bought a house on a half acre just looking for a mower that’ll last me a good while. Thanks man I like your videos.
I like the s240 a lot but I’m not sure if I’ll need to spend that much more money for the amount I’ll be cutting.
Hey Nick. With just a half acre you will be fine with a Briggs and Stratton. Just maintain it and like every gas engine put a fuel stabilizer in it during winter when not in use and use 100% gas and trickle charger on battery in winter as well. If you did decide to move up in mower size after quite a few years you will still get good money out of a Deere mower.
Western Equipment thanks Brent I appreciate it!
From my experience after buying a JD E100 at Lowes, this guy did NOT discuss the most troublesome problem with the E100. The big problem is the deck. It will not cut through heavy thick grass. it shutters and shakes due to poor design of the deck. The routing of the deck drive belt runs from the engine around the idle/clutch spring loaded pulley to the left blade, then crossing the back of the deck to the right blade pully , around a fixed idler pully, back to the engine. The problem is if you hit a patch of thick grass the left blade pulls the spring on the clutch/idle, effectively increasing the length of the belt, so it is too loose to drive the right blade. The slipping belt on the right blade makes the mower shake violently. John Deere supposedly fixed this by an adjustable cable bracket on the early E100 model. On the later model, I bought, JD welded the bracket so there is no adjustment on the cable. When I talked to unsatisfactorily.
This is interesting. When I start the Mow an Acre series back up this summer I will pay attention and see if I notice this. Thanks for bringing this up!
Sounds like you’re somewhat mechanically inclined so may I ask why the hell you would buy an E100? Like I get it when women do it but anyone who knows how to work a wrench knows to get a mower that doesn’t have a plastic trans.
you are the best, man. Straight to the point and great information. I am a new subscriber, thanks.
Thank you! Thanks for the sub and thanks for watching!
My e100 is strong so far first new riding tractor I ever bought for me lol love my deere
Glad to hear you are liking it!
Western Equipment would you recommend going to full synthetic oil on my first oil change on my e100
@@nicholassabella8338 I think you would be fine going synthetic or conventional. Most of the time people use synthetic for longevity but if you are changing you oil every year then it doesn't really matter.
Dude - You are the best - Bought my X350 based on your review. Totally trust your counsel.
@Jonathan Small Thanks for the feedback! Comments like yours keep me going.
Excellent buy.
I’ve got the E100 now but I thought my old Ariens was a better tractor over all.
Interesting. In what ways?
Thank you for this great informative review.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
did you ever think about doing a video comparing the S240 and X350? They both have the same size decks, same engine, transmission, wheels, steering wheel, seat. So the challenge is knowing what their differences are and why someone would choose one mower over the other.
Great idea! Thanks for the comment.
@@WesternEquipment Nice, I'd like to see that. I'd go for the S240 myself, not because of the price but because the lighter weight would make it more zippy. I like zippy, hahahaha. If you mostly mow grass, it would probably do a better job climbing hills. But if I lived in a place like upper New York state where they get the heavier snow, I'd probably choose the X350 because I'd assume the heavier weight would make it better for plowing heavy New York snow.
Great videos! Keep up the good work.
Thank you! We plan on it so stay tuned!
very helpful video!
I'm glad we could get it out there for you! Thanks for watching and commenting!
As stuff breaks on my E1 hundred I’m just gonna put E1 10 parts back on it
nice video great job congratulations too one day i hope to become as good as you
Thank you and best of luck!
Thank you!
You’re welcome!
Before spending $2k+ on one of these new, you can go to FB or CL and find a low to mid hour used X300 series for not much more. You will have a 22hp Kawasaki V-twin engine and Tuff Torq transmission that will far out last these disposable riders.
Otherwise Brent you do a great job of reviewing the products and going over features so that everyone can understand.
Thank you for the compliment and thanks for watching!
I had the same idea, but for some reason in my area any riding mowers posted on FB or CL sell like hotcakes. I've been looking for months and each time I find a decent mower by the time I make it to pickup it has been sold from underneath me. So aggravating.
Great video! I'm hoping to buy either the E100 or E110 in the next few days. I'm ok with getting either but you gave me all of the info I need to feel like I know what I'm getting for my money. The extra $200 for the differences you pointed out seem worth it but I want to have one this weekend.
Thanks and glad I could help! Let me know what you go with and how well you like it after you use it the first time.
@@WesternEquipment so, I'm trying to find the E110 to buy it and can't find it anywhere:(
@@vermontee13 discontinued for plastic cam shafts 🤣
E100 are very rare! I see alot of d105 then a e100.... i think out off all them the e120 most popular most durable most smoothest ride i know i got one myself love that 20 hp v twin engine!
Thanks for the feedback. I’d say most E100 are purchased Home Depot and Lowe’s where they are buying mostly on price.
@@WesternEquipment that's true! That why I dont see any at my local home depot they bought em all up! All thats left is toro and cub cadet... those brand of mowers suck!🤣😂😁💯
I could be wrong but we rarely even have an E100 in inventory. It was tough to get my hands on this one for the E100 videos.
@@WesternEquipment its all good man i love your videos! I just followed you guys on Instagram! Keep up the good work!👍👍
Videos on the E100 are pretty damn rare for some reason, so thanks for the video. You showed the main differences between the two mowers but I'm still having a hard time understanding why someone would choose one mower over the other. The price difference is so small that it's not much of a factor. Can one mower do a job that the other mower can't do? From your description, it sounds like if you have an acre or more to mow, then you'd want to go with the E110 because the pedals are easier to push, but if you have less than an acre, then either mower is fine. What about mowing hills and ditches or towing a cart or lawn sweeper or plowing snow? Would one mower be better than the other? Do you know what the torque rating is for those transmissions? By the way, I heard about problems with the D105 transmission flying apart, but I haven't heard that about the E100 yet. Did John Deere fix that? Check this out, this guy upgraded his D105 with a K66 transmission. th-cam.com/video/mxV98Y1QOu4/w-d-xo.html talk about a HUGE upgrade wow!
Thanks for the comment. I would say the E110 is overall a better tractor. The cast aluminum transmission on the E110 is rated at 231.4 Nm and the composite transmission on the E100 is rated at 200 Nm. Therefore on hills and ditches and pulling carts or pushing snow I think the E110 would outperform the E100 since it will have the higher rated transmission and an extra 1.5 HP at the engine. I also think you hit the nail on the head bringing up the application the mower is being used for. In my opinion the E100 more than likely should stick to strictly mowing and if a person needs to do more then they should look into the E110.
@@WesternEquipment ok, thanks! 200Nm for the E100, that's not bad, better than I thought it would be. That should be enough to mow some hills and ditches. It would be interesting to see what it could do. At least you don't have to worry about it losing torque from overheating or leaking oil. That transmission might not be so bad after all, especially since it's had a few years of development behind it. Somebody needs to give it a torture test and find out! hint... hint... hint... hint...
does the e110 have plastic transmission cause i wouldnt want plastic trans
Can you do a E120 vs E130 comparison maybe even add S240?
I will see what we can do. E series mowers are becoming hard to get ahold of since it is late in mowing season and due to factory hold ups. Might have to try to put this out spring of next year.
awesome...was deciding between Husq vs. JD, Most things point to JD for little better reliability. hate to give up my 74 cub..but want lighter, quieter, more comfortable. thinking Base JD...but Not the 100 now after watching this. thinking of the 130 with bumper and smoother better engine...which I probably don't need for just my lawn cutting. Man, so Much Plastic
The S130 is a nice choice. Thanks for watching!
I think Briggs and Stratton filed for bankruptcy a few months ago; parts might be hard to obtain with a non-existence company
This will eventually be true but there are rules and regulations that require these companies to continue producing parts for so long.
Neither engine is strong enough. Pay couple hundred more and get the 24 HP engine . Why? Because most people riding this thing are at least 250 pounds plus add an attachment and hilly landscape and you will always wish you had stronger engine. You can also snow plow with this but it helps to have a stronger eng. I own the one with 24HP and it still challenges the engine while mowing over small hills. Unfortunately mine developed an oil leak in the first 10 hours. There are plenty of Chinese parts on this "American built" machine as other videos have demonstrated. If you take one to be serviced ,even when under warranty you better have another one while you wait. Extremely loud machine. I'm using it to mow about 2 acres. I will try Toro 30 IN. Time Master-walk behind as a possible alternative next summer.Not really disappointed, just saying it.
I would agree that more HP is always the way to go if you can afford it. Thanks for watching!
Great video !
@Bill Behrens thanks for leaving me a comment! I appreciate the support.
Brent, I bought the E100 in April 2019 for use on my 1.5+ acre lawn in CT with some mild slopes. I typically tow a Cyclone Rake for grass collection and for leaf collection in the fall. Both functions of the Cyclone Rake have saved me many hours of toil. Problem: my tractor seized up just as I was pulling it into my shed last fall. It suddenly would not go in reverse. Attempts to fix it this week proved fruitless. The stick will not move because the main shaft into the transmission is dead frozen.
I think I underestimated the load requirements of my yard / equipment setup and now I have a dead tractor. Any options other than to replace the transmission myself are too expensive. I now realize I should have purchased a more powerful model.
I was quoted a price from a dealer for a replacement transmission (part only) and would like to know if you can offer me any better options. I would upgrade to a more powerful unit if I could do a trade with someone to mitigate the loss.
I wish I had a better option for you but it sounds like you are on the right track. I would look into selling your seized up mower to someone that deals in used parts and use that money to go towards a larger mower. Again, I wish I had a better option but I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I know I'm to late to help you,but the shift fork in those transmissions are often easily bent and when they do they pop out of their intended position and cant move. It's often not to bad to fix,but own a cyclone rake classic and it is pretty heavy when full. I'd say a larger mower would be best
As a owner of the E100, I do not recommend it. The plastic trans and lower HP makes a big difference. I would never go with anything less than a hydrostat trans. in the furure. Personally I don't don't think ANY manufacturer should sell a plastic trans. I have like 58 hours on it and it's already showing signs of problems. Not to mention I have already had to replace idler pully's and the blade brake spring. It pains me to see such an Iconic company put their name on such low quality products. ALSO, I am on my second battery and the tractor has stopped charging so I may be on a 3rd one next season.
Sorry to hear what’s going on. It’s never a good feeling to invest in something and it not hold up. I’m with you on going with Hydrostat trans. We’ve put out a comparison to E110 which is what I’d be in over the E100.
Ya they made that mower to compete with the cheaper big box brands, it’s totally worth it to go with the hydrostatic… even if it’s a K46
Would like to see a compare of the troy built pony mower to the john deere 100
Man I wish I could get my hands on one of those or I would do it.
Yea man people sleep on that brand for sure i got the the. Super bronco tiller an its been going strong 5 years now they make quality
I just purchased a L105. It ran great when I picked it up...I stored it for a week n went to go start it...fired rite up but stalled rite away..started n stalled few times. Battery died now. Any tricks or ideas to try when I charge the battery....it seemed if I rocked the mower it started again but not stay running
If you haven't done this already I would put fresh gas in it and change the fuel filter after you change the battery. Could be the plastic manual fuel pump on the side of the engine. If this dos not help then you made need to clean the carburetor.
Hey Brent, thanks for the video.
My E100 deck just broke and I'm trying to figure out if other John Deere decks can fit to the E100 or if they are specific to the models?
For the E100 you we’ll need a 42” Edge Deck. You can get these on a bunch of mowers. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!
What replaced the L120
Probably the D120 which has since been changed to the E120 and the S120.
wait what are the ACTUAL prices? i never seen a brand new mower at 15 or 17
Well since the E100's are not being made anymore I do not have prices on them but the piece of the new comparable models S100 and S110 would be around $1699 and $1899. Thanks for watching!
Hey great video. I am wondering how I get one of your caps?
We have them on our parts site, here is a link parts.west-equip.com/parts-attachments-and-accessories/we-apparel/.
As a small engine mechanic, I am not a fan of the new E series. It may look the exact same as the D series, but things have gotten cheap. The hood hinge/support is now flimsy PLASTIC. The bracket for the PTO cable is now PLASTIC. They no longer use a dual steering rod setup (more durable). They now use a single steering arm coming from the stearing gear that steers both wheels. And the icing on the cake? An unreliable briggs engine. A customer brought one in yesterday, 8.5 hours, and the PTO cable popped out because the plastic bracket is too flimsy. Also, the throttle control is ceased up. The bean counters clearly got ahold of the E series. Id only reccomend these if you have a rental property.
They definitely are made to be a price point mower which in turn can cause some cost cutting unfortunately.
@@WesternEquipment I agree. But great video regardless!
Yep, I’m a big John Deere fan but I wouldn’t touch their E series. For me it’s either X series or one of their vintage products.
Are these differences the same for 2021?
No, these only apply for 2020 models. Things have changed a lot in the 2021 models.
get the e130
The E130 is definitely a good option! Thanks for watching.
Just bought one. It’s starting but won’t go forward even when depressing clutch and turning off p brake.. dosent the right pedals direct it forward and back. I’m losing my religion
Yes, the pedal(s) on your right move the machine. You have to make sure if its an E100 that you select either forward or reverse on the right hand side by the seat. If it is an E110 you will have two pedals, one for forward and one for reverse.
Lowes has the S100 & S110, are these the same as the E ?
Yes, but there are some upgrades. Check out this video th-cam.com/video/OabpKHomjuM/w-d-xo.html.
@@WesternEquipment thank you, i watched it. 👍
Also, are you familiar with the XC340 MODEL?
I am needing 2 coil packs.
I have never heard of an XC340. Is that supposed to be a John Deere model?
Check with Grass Rats Garage
I just wish John Deere would use steel hood and not plastic witch cracks and breaks overtime from the heat of the engine and the sun beating down on it
I see this comment all the time and I totally get it but you also have to consider the benefits of the plastic hoods. Cooler when operating, no dents, dings or rust, less expensive to replace if it does happen to get damaged. But I understand it would be possible for a metal one to last longer.
neither, they both break down after 1 season.
Not exactly true, but thanks for watching!
@@WesternEquipment for mine it’s true. I’ve spent over 20+ hours fixing the damn thing and getting replacement parts because the warranty expires right before they start having issues 👀
@@WesternEquipment lmfao yeah it is true these things are garbage and use plastic cams
@@bluejene2146 That’s your fault for buying one with a Briggs
Who wants a plastic transmission? It’ll last a year.
Don't get me wrong they are still pretty durable but for the price difference I would strongly consider the E110 for the cast aluminum transmission and true hydrostatic drive functions.
One big difference is you can fix most problems on the CVT in the future, you can't on the hydrostatic. My dad only had 128 hours and 5 years old, JD quoted him over 1000.00 to fix the hydrostatic transmission. D130 was only 1799.00 new.
Before I watch i can tell you 110 is better as the 100 has a plastic transmission.
Let me know what you think of the video.
@@WesternEquipment Good video you did a good job pointing out the differences. Not a fan of the plastic transmission
Totally understandable.
People make way too big of a deal about a plastic case on the E100. Gears inside are metal, you can still service it for minor problems, if it did fail you can put a new one in for 350.00 unlike a hydro that will cost you over a 1000.00. They dont overheat and lose power on small grades. I have seen more hydro fail with under 200 hours than the CVT.
The new "plastic" airplanes will survive far more than the old aluminum ones. It is all in how they designed it and the kind of "plastic." Time will tell.
I have the x380 why am I watching this
We appreciate you watching!
you're wondering "hmmmm, should I buy an X380 and keep it for 10 years or should I just buy a new E100 every 5 years?"
They're just so plasticky hard to believe people could actually call this a tractor it's a piece of plastic and one that's obviously not going to last anytime you hit anything big or serious you know it's going to break it Read the reviews on the internet any type of actual brush or anything you hit you're going to tear those up in no time
This is why there are various sized and lineups of mowers. This series is the lowest end and they are designed to strictly mow grass in residential areas. Almost every brand that produces mower follows this pattern so they have a mower for any customer and any application.
there's a guy who's owned a D105 for 5 years and he's been making youtube videos of it. He says he hasn't had any problems yet and that his transmission was made after the previous model was recalled. 5 years with the cheapest model John Deere lawn tractor with no problems sounds pretty good to me. Not a lot of hours on it though, I think he still has less than 100 hours on it, but he looks like he's about 250 pounds and he drives it like a maniac. th-cam.com/video/-i_O55Tbsbg/w-d-xo.html
E130 lol .1999.99 v twin 22hp
Definitely a nice mower.
I have a e100 and i absolutely.... hate it.!. Built like crap and at 2.3 hours the motor leaks oil and it has a extremely hard start!! Plus home depot doesn't want to take it back.. piece of shit. Lets argue.
If it’s under warranty take it to a Deere dealer near you.
@@WesternEquipment would they send a tech out and arrange pick up? At 2.3 hours they outta be ashamed of that type of multiple failures
@Faraz Nabibaksh depends on the dealer if they would send somebody out to pick it up. Some Deere dealers don’t sell a lot
of mowers and don’t do pick up but if you are in a populated area they probably sell a lot of mowers and pick up is a common thing. There could be a pick up fee but they might work with you on that. First call the dealer to see if it’s under warranty.
@@faraznabibaksh andddd thats why you never buy a riding mower in a big box store.
John Deere has certainly given their brand a BAD NAME WITH A POLYMER TRANSMISSION!!! ARE YOU SHITTING ME!!! $1600 FOR A FUCKING PLASTIC TRANSMISSION!!! I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER BRAND NEW JOHN DEERE MOWER!!!
Good news is that they have done away with this issue. Hopefully that could change your mind in the future. Thanks for watching!
Yeah that's why I would never buy anything John Deere
Keep in mind these are the two cheapest mowers that John Deere currently makes. There are more high quality options as well.