Man, I want to thank you SO MUCH for this video. I have been attempting a famicom AV mod for days now trying all different sorts of methods. None of them worked despite me making sure the circuits were right. I tried your mod and it worked like a charm, first try. I modded a different board revision than yours. Mine is a HVC-CPU-07. The points where to solder to are actually in a different spot. They are square solder pads on the bottom side of the board labeled "VID" for video, "AUD" for audio and "GND" for ground. The ground can actually be grabbed from any ground point on the board, I just picked a point closest to the pads. Maybe worth pinning this for those wanting to mod their HVC-CPU-07 boards. 😃
You are welcome👍 Awesome man Im glad this video helped you out👍 Thank you for sharing your experience with us. If possible could you share your modding pics on twitter or instagram? If not no worries. I hope to make some more videos showing how to do the same mod in different ways. Did you do the no drill method or make it look cleaner with rca outs?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB I might post some pics on twitter later. I was considering using RCA jacks but decided to just hardwire composite cables. My cables were thin enough to fit between the housing and the 'tv game' switch. So no need to drill holes.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB I should also mention that at first the video had a lot of jailbars. This was greatly reduced by adding 2 caps on the bottom of the board
@@DABYXman Hi, not sure anymore where those caps were, no, it's been a while, haha. I do remember reading about adding those caps on a different site or forum. Plenty of famicom mod guides show those caps to reduce jailbars.
This mod was awesome. Just completed and tested mine. worked like a charm. I used a premade TRRS female connector with wiring. I did have to strip the sheathing to keep the wires flat. I just twisted and tinned both audio channels and soldered to the Cap. Thanks a bunch for this. You rock
That is great man! Glad to hear this tutorial helped you out. Sounds like you made it work for what you had on hand. You are welcome. What game are you gonna play first?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Mario 3. 😂 Then I have a bunch of games I've never knew existed. DBZ and sailor moon games should be interesting . Pretty cool to play finally. Been waiting a long while to get a Famicom. Thanks again for all you vids. Appreciate them a lot
Dude you made that look so simple! I've had a Famicom for years but only managed to play it once due to not having a compatible TV that could tune to the right frequency. Will have to give this a go so I can play a bunch of games I've had for ages. Great video, keep it up!
Thanks for the kind words my man. Its is not too difficult even if you are inexperienced at soldiering. Let me know how it goes for you. What game are you gonna play first?
I've had Final Fantasy 1/2/3 and Metal Gear but mainly I have some random clone multi carts, I've never been able to see what's on them so will be interesting. Gotta find my soldering iron first though.
I really enjoy your modding videos because they are easy to understand and they have a good sense of humor. Please add me to the 3000 subscribers give away. Keep up the awesome work!
I thought I commented on this but I guess I didn't get around to it. I bought all of the stuff to do this mod when your video was a few months old. Lots of time went by but I finally got around to doing the mod fairly recently. Not only did it work amazingly but I love the fact that I didn't have to drill into the shell or do anything destructive to the console. Plus, I have the ability to revert it back to factory if I ever wanted to. The nicest part is that I no longer have to have the channel set to 96 anymore. Kudos!
Daniel Im glad this tutorial was able to help you out. Thanks for watching. If you finish your mod an want to share please tag me in twitter or instagram. I love seeing other folks results. Good luck man.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB I have bought all the necesary items, but before I start modding I have a question if thats ok. I've got the same TRRS jack that you used in the video and want to double check so I dont screw it up. At 3:10 the Audio out pins are marked with two red circles, the longest pin at the top and the one closest to the camera. The pin for Video out marked with a yellow circle is in the back. But at 3:48 it seems to be the other way around, the yellow cable (video) is connected to the pin that was marked as Audio out and vice versa. So my question is if it matters how the cables are connected to the jack?
Radio Frequency modulation is an archaic way of getting the signal from an old piece of tech to a tv screen. The output of a famicom or old nes is composite, it then has to be modulated to a specified channel’s frequency and output to a tv which then demodulates it. An a/v cable gives you the picture it’s generating without the interference that comes from modulating the audio and video to a tv channel and then demodulating it.
Its all working!!!!! I was runing out of ideas so i tried taking out the ceramic capacitor and conecting the audio directely to the negative leg on the 220µF Capacitor and its working perfect now!!
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Thank you man I´m hyped af. Is it worrying that im not using the ceramic capacitor? could it screw up something? or is that capaacitor more like for filtering noise and stuff so its something that wont damage anything by not beeing there?
You are a hero! I just purchased a famicom without realizing it was RF so i was nervous when it came in. I was even more nervous when i saw i had a different board then yours. But thankfully your tutorial still worked on my board! The sound is perfect and the jailbars are very minimal. My one issue though is that the picture is quite dark and i'm not sure what is causing it, probably just my tv or a pin connection issue. Regardless, thank you so much!
I've done a couple of famicom AV mods and I must say this is by far the easiest method and I'm going to do my third just like this one except I might just use standard AV cable run out the controller 2 grommet. I really don't understand why people go through doing all the lifting of pin 21 and crap because just a lot of extra work and mess on the famicom with no better image results. Thanks for sharing.
Hello again my friend!! I was using an rca to scart adapter because my tv only had scart, i decided to try on another tv wich has rca and colors work amazing!!! But i still have no sound though, i feel like im so close to geting it working perfect. Do you have any clue of what could give no sound issue? I seen people mentioning adjusting a coil, is it that small green coil with a philips adjusting screw? Is there any point in the board i can use a multimeter to check if its giving out sound? I tried blowing on the mic and i could hear me blowing on the TV, so i tried unplugging the Player 2 controler to see if it was causing an issue, but still no sound. Any help would be much apreciated and thank you once again.
the best way to keep your console as original as possible, thank you. You gave me the reason to go ahead and eventually buy a original famicom from ebay from japan which i just did. I can't wait to get it on my hands and mod it.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB hello, today i received my console and unfortunately my motherboard is different than the one in your video, do you have any suggestions?
there are many revisions of the board but nintendo is usually good about labeling things. Also you could google the schematics of your board version that may help.
I hadn't thought of running the wires out the controller port opening, THANKS! I'm actually in the middle of sourcing PC Boards for the Super Nintendo AV out connector, believe it or not I'm using it to mod an Atari 2600, those have the ability to output S-Video so the plan is to rig up a dongle out the back much like the OEM RF cable. Then use easy to find commercial Nintendo AV cables with composite and S-Video connections.
I tried this method out on a HVC-CPU-07 using the marked GND and video pads along with the 220uF cap connected to pin46 of the cartridge connector. The image quality was really poor and high contrast. I've reverted back to the old method including lifting pin21 and cutting the trace. I usually swap out the 2SA937 PNP for a 2SA1015. I'm keen to try out this AV mod on the next HVC-GPM-02 board though as it looks like a nice time saver 😁.
Thomas thanks for letting us know how it went on your version of the board that will be very helpful for thoese that want to try this mod on the HVC-CPU-07 version of the board. Thank you for sharing. 🙏🙏🙏
I know General Kenobi would be pleased. Great explanation of the mod. I've never seen the inside of a Famicom before. Very retro, but beautiful. Love the sticker instructions close to the switch. Great video.
Sam Im glad you enjoyed it! Editing that took me quite a bit of time but it was fun to do. I love the look of the original famicom and all its retroness. Do you own one?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB not yet. The system is really quite a novelty because it developed in so many directions. With cartridge and the disc add on, the wired in controllers, and the amazing games that originated for it (i think I'm saying that right) and the length of its dominance. It was the last of its kind in some respects and first of its kind in others.
I noticed some light interference such as a faint buzzing sound in the background and very faint cascading static bars. The coaxial cable also has the interference so maybe it's something else.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB I took a second look and the coaxial output image is clear. It's only the mod that has that interference. It may be related to where I attach the 3.5mm to RCA cable into the Jack.
Hello my friend Thank you for your video, i followed your instructions but the image out of the famicom comes in black and white and there is no sound. Do you have any idea what it could be?
If i have the same problem i double and triple check my soldiering points. And if you still get nothing it may need new caps. Also if your board is not the same version as the one here it may not work the same way. Good luck
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Thank you for the reply, i really apreciate it. I allready triple checked my soldering, and i checked and its the same version as the one you did in the video. By recaping you mean change all the original capacitors? Or do you know wich caps could be responsible for sound and color. Im very happy allready though, it sure would be amazing to get color and sound out of this almost 40 year old console but even if i cant get it any better than this its ok still. So no matter what, i really apreciate your video and still taking the time to respond after so long of posting it. Thanks alot my friend.
It very well could be I did this mod a while ago and havent bought new ceramic caps in quite some time i think the mod may even work with out the ceramic cap to be honest. Its worth a try anyways.
I got a famicom diy kit av mod kit on eBay. Just wondered when you prep the board and put flux is that the same as using soldering rosin? I’m planning to learn to solder using a cheap famicom.
Yes and yes. I would suggest a no clean flux. Rosin or soldiering past leaves a bit of sticky residu so if you go that route hit it with some ipa to clean up the area.
I know this is an old video but, the little black plastic thing you routed the wire through so you didn't need to drill holes is called a grommet. Also thanks from 2024 this works great and looks nice as well.
Hey, thank you very much for this awesome mod, quite easy to do and you only need a soldering iron in tools to do this. That it retrain all it parts and dont destroy anything is really cool too :D.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB yes :) I made AV mod for my Famicom, Atari 2600 Jr., made some AV mods on very crappy video quality NOACs and 1:1 famiclones. Awso Sega MD1 and MD2 over clock and region mods :) and on my first NES I added famicom slot in the bottom on the expention slot place, and on one tiny B/W TV I added NOAC inside :)
@@ScruffyLookinRGB a bit late but, here are some of my mods :) facebook.com/Retro-World-102895561482822/photos/ bazar.bg/obiava-29205348/nintendo-sega-atari-remontiram-i-modifitsiram
Thank you so much for this easy AV mod. I implemented it on HVC-CPU-07 board and it worked. The only problem is that video is too bright, light colors tend to be too light or just complete white. For example, the background of the famous Super Mario Bros 3 intro screen is solid white instead of the original creamy color. I tried different resistor values (from 100ohm to 500ohm) but without success. Should I try different capacitor values (instead of 47uF)?
Yes unfortunately its a trial and error type of situation. I found a japanese blog that had this method here so i used it and it works great for this particular board revision. Other board revisions may vary unfortunately
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Yah, 1k ohm gave me the best color saturation on LCD TV, but my CRT TV couldn’t detect the signal when using that resistor. I settled on 510ohm resistor as the best value between saturated colors and signal reliability.
This is the best AV mod for a Famicom I have ever seen. Awesome video, thank you. I've only changed a controller port on my Atari 7800 and am wanting to try this. I'm wondering how you knew what tab on the trrs jack was video, ground and audio. Did you connect the female trrs to the male 3.5 av cables and do a continuity test? Thank you.
I've got a modded AV famicom, i got audio but I can't get the video to work! I tried 3.5 male to female RCA adaptor and direct 3.5 to RCA video cables but neither worked.. Tried Video w/ Mono sound, and Video w/ stereo sound and also didn't work. I don't know what to do with it anymore.
It may be the 3.5 jack and cable don't match try hooking up the red and white to the video in on TV not all cables are hooked up the same. To be sure you need to test from the mobo to the end of the cables to know for sure.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Already solved it thanks! Switching matching colors worked for me. Sadly, i can confirm I got vertical stripes on the screen, and I can't use my Famicom with RF cable... Strange since the mod looks almost the same as yours. Thanks anyway!
50 volts is the rating of the capacitor so the higher the voltage the better. If the original capacitor was 16v and you replace it with a 50v that means it can take a 50 volt charge if for some reason that would even occur. Rule of thumb is its OK to go higher on the original voltage. But you don't want to go lower.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB i put another comment but it seems yt deleted it because it has a link i was asking if this trrs port good or not but it seems i cant put a link or else yt delete it
I like the idea of doing a no-cut and fully reversible mod. Also much cheaper than a VAMP board. I wonder how easy it would be to do the old NES stereo audio mod with this. But also still having it be no-cut. Maybe with a small screwdriver sized potentiometer through one of the vent holes?
I just opened my famicom up and found it is the CPU-07 from 1984 motherboard and yours is a later revision. I wonder if I can still follow your tutorial vid. The back part looks the same as yours
If it's the older revision, it won't be the same as this one. But the good news is it easy to swap out the power board for a new one with composit video. Rgr makes a good one.
Hey there! Thanks a lot for your video, I have an already modded Famicom but it's getting some weird white faint lines where objects are (in the game) and I'm going to try and get that mod out and do this one as soon as I get some level ups on my soldering skills. Thanks!
Thanks a lot! Should be easy getting the other bad boy out I suppose. Just get the hot glue out, de-solder those wires and caps and see if I don't wreck it more than it is already! :D @@ScruffyLookinRGB
Ok amigo no va quedar otra que probar con el mío 😅 es que e visto un video donde realizan este mod a un top loader nes pero no especifica o más bien no se alcanza a ver las equivalencias de capacitores la verdad tú lo aces ver muy fácil muy buen video gracias por compartir tus conocimientos 👍
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Hi, thanks for the video, I understand about the capacitor in the video, but why do you add a capacitor to the audio output?
Can't get mine to work:( I bought these: Carbon Resistor, 0.25W ,5%, 120R Radial alum cap, 220uF, 16V, 8x11 Cap Ceramic Radial RCE Series 1uF 50V M radial Al elect cap,47uF 16V 85deg C Just makes a buzzing sound, no picture signal..
@@ScruffyLookinRGB I got it working, my resistor and ceramic capacitor look different than yours, they're smaller. The colours on mine are a different contrast. Any ideas?
It's really difficult to know what the issue is without having it in front of me. But often times a Cap replacement is a good start. Also I find changing out the power board has worked for me. Good luck 👍✨️
Got two AV modded Famicoms off of Yahoo a couple years ago. First one was a no-cut one like this, but for some reason it had really bad audio feedback (like a ground loop hum) when connected to my PVM (but fine connected to a Framemeister), so I got one that has AV connectors drilled into the side, and worked fine with my PVM. Probably could have done it myself now that I'm a bit more confident in my soldering, but oh well.
Some times the hum comes from the controller two volume slider. A little ipa to clean the contacts on the pcb board and the 2 prongs on the slider. Or the length of the wires they used on the inside may be too long. But sounds like you have a nice work around. Id love to get my hands on a framemister how do you like it?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB An OSSC is probably a better option now, but when I got the FrameMeister in 2014 it worked great for the most part. Some Genesis games had HDMI handshake issues (due to the Genesis's wonky sync signal I guess). I got a PVM a few years ago so don't use the FM much anymore, unfortunately.
@scruffylookingrbg i did this mod and i can only get it to work properly when something is plugged into the rf port. Did you have this issue? I'm having it on two tvs with two different famicoms...
@ScruffyLookinRGB seems like I needed a bigger ground wire than I was using. All set, thanks! I have another revision I'm trying but getting no luck. Not enough ground like the other but no matter where I ground it I'm having the same issue. Might have to do the full conversion mod on that one.
Scruffy does this method in theory work with all model 1 famicoms where all i have to do is find audio video and ground? Im asking because i see other methods where you have to lift the pin on the ic and remove a transistor among other things.
Boss video brother! I'm definitely gonna do this mod next month alongside the OpenTendo project. Wonder if you've heard of that one? Also your editing skills are awesome, haha!
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Welcome my man! 👏🏿 OpenTendo is a completely open source recreation of the front loader NES PCB: github.com/Redherring32/OpenTendo You can get your own newer after market components, and solder it into the board, then add any enhancements onto that as well. It's pretty damn awesome sounding, so I wanna give it a try. 😅
does it matter on the rating of the 1uf ceramic capacitor? im seeing 1uf 50v ones from my supplier also is the mod different for the original famicom that has the soft square button controllers?
Hi, i have some trouble seeing which part is what on the TRRS jack, one part is golden while the rest is silver, am I correct that tje golden part is the video out? Great video btw!
I modded mine years ago but I wasn't happy with it because I lost the expansion sound channels on disk system games and some cartridge games like gimmick and it's been such a long time I don't know what to make of the work I did on the board. it's the same process as you did here
Wow you have some very sought after games my man. Interesting I have never heard of anyone loosing their expansion sound after doing a AV mod like this. I was also thinking about this the other day. My thinking is that the expansion sound is actually on the disc system and not the white and red famicom. I wonder if anyone else out there has similar issue?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB there are a handful of games that have extended audio from cartridge hardware that don't show up when piping audio out of the CPU pins or pin 45 so I was told to cut those connections and pipe it out of pin 46 on the cartridge connector because that signal is already amplified and it will modulate through the speaker as is
@@MysteryManBob after cutting the trace you still get the normal audio? But not the expansion audio? I just picked up the cart of Akumajyo densetsu. Im now curious to test the sound with an un-modded famicom vs the one i modded here to see if there is a difference in sound as you mentioned. Thanks for bringing this to my attention i will research it further and ask around.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=14571.0 this sheds some light on the audio mixing situation. I wish there was a diagram to go with it but I think it's pretty straight forward
I did this mod to a HVC-CPU-07 board Famicom and it worked, despite having different soldering locations. The picture is very dark, however. I saw in another comment that you mentioned changing the capacitor value may adjust the brightness of the picture. What values would you suggest trying to get this brighter picture?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Thank you so much. I’ll order a couple capacitors and check it out. Another theory I have is that it may be because I am powering my Famicom with a 9v Genesis Adapter rather than the original 10v one. I’ll let you know if I figure it out
Hi. You "used" a 1uf ceramic capacitor which is shaped like a 100 nf capacitor (104). I can't find 1uf capacitor anywhere. Will it work if I use capacitor 104?
doing this mod on two broken HVC-CPU-07 I bought after I replace the voltage regulator on one of them first. PS the I have to solder the parts in different place then what you show but the place are labeled so I should be easy to do as long as the parts work the same. Thanks for the video
@@ScruffyLookinRGB ok so I modded the first board and plug it in and all I get for is a gray screen with a black strip moving across it. the mic on controller 2 works and i can hear it from the tv but no video or game audio. I only have one game for it so if my game doesn't work would it be normal to have that screen? Because the nes has a gray screen when it can't read the game so if you turn on a famicon with out a game in it thought AV will you get the same result?
Beautiful. It’s really cool that you kept it completely undo-able, I often wrestle with this very thing between being a collector and a fixer…. Perfectly adding a 3.5 Jack in the back would make me so happy, but also keeping it completely original would too…. It’s rough. 😅 I picked up a pristine Famicom a few years back listed as “junk” at a recycle shop. They said it didn’t work, but it was so clean, un-yellowed, all stickers and port covers… and only 500円 it was a no brainer. I figured at the very least I could case swap a functioning Famicom…. but for whatever reason, maybe my bad Japanese understanding (though it WAS priced as junk), it worked completely fine. I still don’t understand the problem.. they had plenty of power adapters for sale that they could’ve used to check it.. 🤷♂️
Thanks. I'm glad there are others out there who agree with me and are unsure to add a jack or leave it as is. This way we can keep the ancient rf intact. In Japan often junk just means untested. A lot of times they just don't have the time or care to test it.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB The fact that both outputs still work is pretty amazing to me, I’m glad you were able to figure that out. Many a great deal, just because a Japanese person won’t be bothered to plug something in. 😂 I’m at about a 95% “completely fine” rate for “junk” items so far.
Awesome, thanks for this. I wanted to avoid RF and also didn't want to shell out for an RGB kit yet. This will do nicely until I do an RGB mod some day.
Great mod and work! I just did this mod on a GPM board and it worked right away. I am getting those dreaded jailbars however... I tried the filter cap on the PPU and another one on the CPU as some other people recommend but there was no change. Is there anything else that can be done?
Great job man👍 Jail bars are just a part of life I think some people say there are things you can do to minimalize them but I havent attempted it. Some people no matter how much they try say they cant get rid of them. Sorry couldn't be more help with the jail bars issue. If your on instagram or twitter post a shot of your work and tag me in it love to see how it came out. Oh also jail bars show up differently on different TVs too so try another tv and see if anything changes.
I'm planning to order a famicom (idk what revision I'll get, lol). Your mod looks the simplest and has minimal impact on the console. Other mods use transistors, is there a difference in signal quality?
The earlier mobo revisions tend to have a much noisier signal. Later revisions have a much clearer signal. The earlier versions need a litte more work to get a clear signal. If you want the best signal the av famicom is the way to go. But if you like the original famicom astetics the later one is easier to mod for av.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Thanks for your reply! Famicom looks like the console from my childhood and AV Famicom is too expensive. By the way, I looked at the auctions and I have another question: if you just buy something that looks normal but has not been tested, what is the likelihood that everything will be fine with it? If there is just a little rust and swollen capacitors, this is also normal) Are there problems there, like with the Super Famicom, when one of the processors may be faulty?
Glad to hear your mod was successful 👌 congratulations 🎊 unfortunately i have never fussed with trying to get rid of jail bars maybe i will in the near future.
Heyo, I've attempted this mod however I'm unable to produce any video, audio comes through completely clear, I've checked all the pins on my TRRS jack just to make sure the pin out isn't different, only thing I can think of is the fact I'm using a 1/2 watt 120ohm resistor, do you think that'd make the difference between picture and no picture at all?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB seems like my Retrotink 5X was the reason i wasnt getting a picture, directly into my TV tho gives bad waving lines and a loud buzz when the video signal is connected, all my solder joints are definitely good and i'm using the same components listed in the description, its so confusing :S
yo! just an update, got it all working, needed to ground the video connection seperately, must've been something off with my TRRS jack cause for some reason it only grounded the audio, the picture being all wavy and buzzing caused the retrotink to not accept the input aswell, so as soon as i got that fixed the RT5x was working too and looked very good for Composite, thanks for the vid!
Yo! It's my first time commenting, but I can't thank you enough for the content you release. I've recently been to Tokyo and managed to get "junk" hardware to restore and repair - and of course, I got a Famicom! I tried this mod on my HVC-CPU-07 revision, and I get a dark picture. Not extremely dark, but abnormally dark. What I tested : Changing the resistor to 220 / 100 ohms, soldering on the VID pin, soldering on the E pin of the transistor, and it changed absolutely nothing. Can that be because of the still connected RF module? After checking various AV mods, I see that a lot of mods remove the 2SA937 transistor. Can that be because of a tired transistor, too? Do you have any suggestion? Thanks!
I appreciate the kind words. HVC-CPU-07 has a different process from this video it involves lifting pin 21 and adjusting the transistor like you mentioned. I plan on making a how to video about it soon so be on the look out and good luck. There are other videos out there that will show you how just take a quick youtube search🙏🙏🏾🙏🏼✨️
Got my parts in and installed iv got sound now and better video. Thank you so much. The bigger capacitor does seem to barley hit the bottom case and slightly bulge it when tighted. But I don't think it will be a issue.
Its really easy to mix up audio and video wires when soldiering i do it all the time. Trace your wires from the out to the point on the board. also check all your soldier points make sure they are not touching other points. Check and check again. Let me know how it goes for you.
@@MrNintendokid45 Did you solve this? I think I had exactly the same issue as you., check my video to see if it's similar. th-cam.com/video/AZT_R0ZEQYI/w-d-xo.html To solve it, I used a different 3.5mm to RCA cable (from a camera), as clearly the one I had wasn't wired in the same way as the TRRS jack. I'm in the UK, so perhaps we (not sure where you're from), have a different 3.5mm to RCA standard than where Scruffy is from.
Hi, I have av modded my famicom refer to your tutorial. It works great. Thank you But when I play the game with no music in the background, there is a very buzzy electricity sound. it's that normal?
It might be the soldering joints or wire length. The longer the wire the more chance for interferience. Also the player two controler can cause an echo if its not cleaned or the volume slider is slightly turned on. But if its none of those things it could just be the console has a bit of noise. Ill check a few of my modded ones at home and see if i get any noise. And good work on your successful mod!
Hi! Thanks for the video. I do have a question. I am kind of an electronics-noob. Could you explain a bit how you manage to do this mod without any transistor or amplifier? Seems like every other mod has some kind of amplification circuitry, why isnt it needed here? Thanks!
Hello Mathieu. I have a confession to make Im no electronics expert my self. I like to tinker and just try things out to see if they work. I found this mod by a Japanese modder and have been able to duplicate it multiple times on my own as for how and why it works sorry I dont have any details in that area. sorry i couldnt be of more help man. If i find the site where I originally found this mod i will share the link but i still have yet to rediscover where it was that I found it. Cheers!
@@ScruffyLookinRGB yeah, in the description and video it says that is has to be 120 ohm, but there is no given wattage, does the wattage really matter?
@@allenbot I mean I know that now, but this was in a period where I didn't and the site I was buying the resisters from said they would handle up to 0.2 watts so that really confused me
This seems almost too simple compared to mods I've seen online. Are you sure it's really just three capacitors and a resistor??? That's impressive. However I do have a couple of questions, if that's alright. Does this work for all Famicom boards, or is it specific versions? Because I really cannot tell which one I'm buying from Yahoo, nobody's ever that specific. Or alternatively, is there a way to simply solder in the end of an AV cord? I don't mind having wires bonded to the console, it's already got controller cables stuck into it, and I have a spare AV cord I would prefer to use over buying a jack.
Thank you Tai. Yes it is that simple. This is the board version of the famicom i come accross most often. Unfortunately i have not tried this on any another board versions. But i do think it is possible. You would need to google the schematics to find out where the audio, video and ground can be tapped into. They should be fairly close to the ones in this video. Sorry there is no certain way to tell what board unless you open it up. One thing I might add is if you look into the cartridge slot and see metal around the blue plastic of the slot you have a good chance of getting the same board version as in this video. If it is just the blue plastic with out the surrounding metal than its a different version. I hope you find the one you want. Oh and yes you can do this with regular av cables just getting them to fit through the same controller port might take some ingenuity. Good hunting my friend👍
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Thank you! I'm hoping it works, Famicoms are fairly well-known for hating British televisions, and I maaaaaay have ordered one without the RF cable to keep shipping weight down. If all else fails I'm pretty sure some people just sell motherboards for the console so that's always a backup. Thanks for the tutorial, it's really cool!
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Hang on, final question, just to double-check I assume I don't need to ground it if I just wire straight into the audio and video without using the jack? Or should I ground one of the audio channels? Thanks again, I haven't seen this mod anywhere else so don't know who else to ask lol
@@ScruffyLookinRGB thank you! I hope it works, I'm not sure which board revision I've got as it hasn't arrived yet, but I reeeeeeally hope it's the GPM-02 as that would make it so much easier. Really glad I found this mod when I did!
Take a close look at the comments here there is someone who has been able to do it but said the picture was a little too saturated. He said he had better luck with the pin 21 method.
I just googled TRRS jack and this popped up they even have a tutorial about how to check the continuity. Not affiliated with them at all. www.showmecables.com/3-5mm-trrs-female-solder-connector-plastic hope that helps you man.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB My Famicom arrived and my board looks very different from yours. There's pins labeled video ground and sou which I assume is sound but in different spots. Can I do the same modification with same parts on this board using those pins?
@@palen2890 In short yes you should be able to in theory, another viewer in the comments here said they had luck doing the mod this way with the HVC-CPU-07 board version. What board version do you have?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB It's a HVC-CPU-08. I can't find any videos or images on modding this specific board. I also can't really tell which pin is supposed to be the video and audio outs. The ground is isolated but the labels for the other two are around several pins that could be it.
👉Check out my Easy Famicom controller button casting video th-cam.com/play/PLXy8jPf4dll17qFbs1Z6lkPP7dXIj1Ewa.html
Man, I want to thank you SO MUCH for this video. I have been attempting a famicom AV mod for days now trying all different sorts of methods. None of them worked despite me making sure the circuits were right. I tried your mod and it worked like a charm, first try. I modded a different board revision than yours. Mine is a HVC-CPU-07. The points where to solder to are actually in a different spot. They are square solder pads on the bottom side of the board labeled "VID" for video, "AUD" for audio and "GND" for ground. The ground can actually be grabbed from any ground point on the board, I just picked a point closest to the pads. Maybe worth pinning this for those wanting to mod their HVC-CPU-07 boards. 😃
You are welcome👍 Awesome man Im glad this video helped you out👍 Thank you for sharing your experience with us. If possible could you share your modding pics on twitter or instagram? If not no worries. I hope to make some more videos showing how to do the same mod in different ways. Did you do the no drill method or make it look cleaner with rca outs?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB I might post some pics on twitter later. I was considering using RCA jacks but decided to just hardwire composite cables. My cables were thin enough to fit between the housing and the 'tv game' switch. So no need to drill holes.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB I should also mention that at first the video had a lot of jailbars. This was greatly reduced by adding 2 caps on the bottom of the board
@@mrmii6596 Hey, realise it's been a while but have done the same as you (hardwire etc) remember whereabouts you put those caps?
@@DABYXman Hi, not sure anymore where those caps were, no, it's been a while, haha. I do remember reading about adding those caps on a different site or forum. Plenty of famicom mod guides show those caps to reduce jailbars.
This is by far the best job i've seen in modding a famicom!!
Thank you🙏🙏🙏
This mod was awesome. Just completed and tested mine. worked like a charm. I used a premade TRRS female connector with wiring. I did have to strip the sheathing to keep the wires flat. I just twisted and tinned both audio channels and soldered to the Cap. Thanks a bunch for this. You rock
That is great man! Glad to hear this tutorial helped you out. Sounds like you made it work for what you had on hand. You are welcome. What game are you gonna play first?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Mario 3. 😂 Then I have a bunch of games I've never knew existed. DBZ and sailor moon games should be interesting . Pretty cool to play finally. Been waiting a long while to get a Famicom. Thanks again for all you vids. Appreciate them a lot
Dude you made that look so simple! I've had a Famicom for years but only managed to play it once due to not having a compatible TV that could tune to the right frequency. Will have to give this a go so I can play a bunch of games I've had for ages.
Great video, keep it up!
Thanks for the kind words my man. Its is not too difficult even if you are inexperienced at soldiering. Let me know how it goes for you. What game are you gonna play first?
I've had Final Fantasy 1/2/3 and Metal Gear but mainly I have some random clone multi carts, I've never been able to see what's on them so will be interesting. Gotta find my soldering iron first though.
@@ryoma0045 Nice choices I also love the old TMNT carts mostly 2 and 3. Hope you find your soldiering iron👍
I really enjoy your modding videos because they are easy to understand and they have a good sense of humor. Please add me to the 3000 subscribers give away. Keep up the awesome work!
I thought I commented on this but I guess I didn't get around to it. I bought all of the stuff to do this mod when your video was a few months old. Lots of time went by but I finally got around to doing the mod fairly recently. Not only did it work amazingly but I love the fact that I didn't have to drill into the shell or do anything destructive to the console. Plus, I have the ability to revert it back to factory if I ever wanted to. The nicest part is that I no longer have to have the channel set to 96 anymore. Kudos!
Im glad it worked out well for you. Isnt it funny how things can get forgotten about? Glad you are pleased with the results.
Worked well on my famicom. I have an older one with completely different setup so I have to do much more work.
This was great job and well made.
Im glad you enjoyed it and even better you were able to successfully able to do it.
Will try this one out since I dont want to ruin my Famicom drilling holes and what not. Thanks for the good tutorial! :)
Daniel Im glad this tutorial was able to help you out. Thanks for watching. If you finish your mod an want to share please tag me in twitter or instagram. I love seeing other folks results. Good luck man.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB I have bought all the necesary items, but before I start modding I have a question if thats ok. I've got the same TRRS jack that you used in the video and want to double check so I dont screw it up. At 3:10 the Audio out pins are marked with two red circles, the longest pin at the top and the one closest to the camera. The pin for Video out marked with a yellow circle is in the back. But at 3:48 it seems to be the other way around, the yellow cable (video) is connected to the pin that was marked as Audio out and vice versa. So my question is if it matters how the cables are connected to the jack?
Radio Frequency modulation is an archaic way of getting the signal from an old piece of tech to a tv screen. The output of a famicom or old nes is composite, it then has to be modulated to a specified channel’s frequency and output to a tv which then demodulates it. An a/v cable gives you the picture it’s generating without the interference that comes from modulating the audio and video to a tv channel and then demodulating it.
Agreed glad we have so many ways to mod the famicom these days 😀
Before, I was afraid to do this mod. But this method looks easier than I thought which I can do it right now. Thank you very much
Glad i could be of some help sharpshark👍 love to see your finished work share it with me on social media if possible. Good luck man.
Its all working!!!!!
I was runing out of ideas so i tried taking out the ceramic capacitor and conecting the audio directely to the negative leg on the 220µF Capacitor and its working perfect now!!
Congratulations I'm glad you were able to get it up and running👍👍👍🎮
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Thank you man
I´m hyped af.
Is it worrying that im not using the ceramic capacitor? could it screw up something? or is that capaacitor more like for filtering noise and stuff so its something that wont damage anything by not beeing there?
You are a hero! I just purchased a famicom without realizing it was RF so i was nervous when it came in. I was even more nervous when i saw i had a different board then yours. But thankfully your tutorial still worked on my board! The sound is perfect and the jailbars are very minimal. My one issue though is that the picture is quite dark and i'm not sure what is causing it, probably just my tv or a pin connection issue.
Regardless, thank you so much!
Glad I could help! It could be the value of the capacitor you used causing the darker image too. But glad to hear things worked out for you.
could be the value of the resistor
I've done a couple of famicom AV mods and I must say this is by far the easiest method and I'm going to do my third just like this one except I might just use standard AV cable run out the controller 2 grommet. I really don't understand why people go through doing all the lifting of pin 21 and crap because just a lot of extra work and mess on the famicom with no better image results. Thanks for sharing.
That is a big compliment thanks. I agree this is the easiest method ive found thus far. Lifting pins is no fun. Happy modding man👍
Hello again my friend!!
I was using an rca to scart adapter because my tv only had scart, i decided to try on another tv wich has rca and colors work amazing!!!
But i still have no sound though, i feel like im so close to geting it working perfect. Do you have any clue of what could give no sound issue?
I seen people mentioning adjusting a coil, is it that small green coil with a philips adjusting screw?
Is there any point in the board i can use a multimeter to check if its giving out sound?
I tried blowing on the mic and i could hear me blowing on the TV, so i tried unplugging the Player 2 controler to see if it was causing an issue, but still no sound.
Any help would be much apreciated and thank you once again.
You are almost there just keep trying things out i know you will get it workin soon😁
@@ScruffyLookinRGB i wonder how you know that 😂😂😂😂
Just picked up a famicom in japan stoked to do this and play it!
That is awesome I hope the mod goes smoothly for you.
the best way to keep your console as original as possible, thank you. You gave me the reason to go ahead and eventually buy a original famicom from ebay from japan which i just did. I can't wait to get it on my hands and mod it.
Im glad I could be of some help to you. I wish you luck in your AV Famicom mod. Share your results when you finish id love to see how it turns out.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB hello, today i received my console and unfortunately my motherboard is different than the one in your video, do you have any suggestions?
My board is hvc-cpu-07 so i can't find the audio and video pins, just ground. Any advice? Thanks!
there are many revisions of the board but nintendo is usually good about labeling things. Also you could google the schematics of your board version that may help.
I hadn't thought of running the wires out the controller port opening, THANKS! I'm actually in the middle of sourcing PC Boards for the Super Nintendo AV out connector, believe it or not I'm using it to mod an Atari 2600, those have the ability to output S-Video so the plan is to rig up a dongle out the back much like the OEM RF cable. Then use easy to find commercial Nintendo AV cables with composite and S-Video connections.
That is a good way to handle it. The snes multiout should be standard on all retro tech would make things a lot easier😉👍👍👍
I tried this method out on a HVC-CPU-07 using the marked GND and video pads along with the 220uF cap connected to pin46 of the cartridge connector. The image quality was really poor and high contrast. I've reverted back to the old method including lifting pin21 and cutting the trace. I usually swap out the 2SA937 PNP for a 2SA1015. I'm keen to try out this AV mod on the next HVC-GPM-02 board though as it looks like a nice time saver 😁.
Thomas thanks for letting us know how it went on your version of the board that will be very helpful for thoese that want to try this mod on the HVC-CPU-07 version of the board. Thank you for sharing. 🙏🙏🙏
I know General Kenobi would be pleased. Great explanation of the mod. I've never seen the inside of a Famicom before. Very retro, but beautiful. Love the sticker instructions close to the switch. Great video.
Sam Im glad you enjoyed it! Editing that took me quite a bit of time but it was fun to do. I love the look of the original famicom and all its retroness. Do you own one?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB not yet. The system is really quite a novelty because it developed in so many directions. With cartridge and the disc add on, the wired in controllers, and the amazing games that originated for it (i think I'm saying that right) and the length of its dominance. It was the last of its kind in some respects and first of its kind in others.
I noticed some light interference such as a faint buzzing sound in the background and very faint cascading static bars. The coaxial cable also has the interference so maybe it's something else.
The older famicom boards are quite noisy. It's tough to get them just right
@@ScruffyLookinRGB I took a second look and the coaxial output image is clear. It's only the mod that has that interference. It may be related to where I attach the 3.5mm to RCA cable into the Jack.
Excellent mod video. Just modded my Famicom using your video (same HVC-CPU-GPM-02 revision). Thanks.
You are welcome! Glad to hear it! hope you get to enjoy the improvement in picture 👍👍👍 whats your famicom game of choice?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Gun Dec aka Vice: Project Doom.
Great tutorial, thank you! One question though. Where can I get the TRRS Jack in Tokyo Japan? I’ve been searching everywhere and couldn’t find any…
One place I like to visit in akihabara is Sengoku Densyo they have it all 👍🏻✨️
Life saver! Thank you
Just thanks. May crom bless you from the top of his mountain
Wow, thanks! I'm glad it helped you out
Hello my friend
Thank you for your video, i followed your instructions but the image out of the famicom comes in black and white and there is no sound.
Do you have any idea what it could be?
If i have the same problem i double and triple check my soldiering points. And if you still get nothing it may need new caps. Also if your board is not the same version as the one here it may not work the same way. Good luck
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Thank you for the reply, i really apreciate it.
I allready triple checked my soldering, and i checked and its the same version as the one you did in the video.
By recaping you mean change all the original capacitors?
Or do you know wich caps could be responsible for sound and color.
Im very happy allready though, it sure would be amazing to get color and sound out of this almost 40 year old console but even if i cant get it any better than this its ok still.
So no matter what, i really apreciate your video and still taking the time to respond after so long of posting it.
Thanks alot my friend.
are you sure the little ceramic cap was not a .1uf and not a 1uf. i have looked and not having any luck finding a 1uf ceramic cap.
It very well could be I did this mod a while ago and havent bought new ceramic caps in quite some time i think the mod may even work with out the ceramic cap to be honest. Its worth a try anyways.
I got a famicom diy kit av mod kit on eBay. Just wondered when you prep the board and put flux is that the same as using soldering rosin? I’m planning to learn to solder using a cheap famicom.
Yes and yes. I would suggest a no clean flux. Rosin or soldiering past leaves a bit of sticky residu so if you go that route hit it with some ipa to clean up the area.
hi, but for a question of output impedances, wouldn't it be better to use a transistor?
That is a very good question, unfortunately I'm not sure.
My takeaway: The OG famicom used Phillips screws? No triwings? No 3.8mm security bits?
no try wings my man just simple screws. very convenient. Plans to mod you own?
Hello , cool video.. just wonder what the cable size is .. ?😅
I know this is an old video but, the little black plastic thing you routed the wire through so you didn't need to drill holes is called a grommet. Also thanks from 2024 this works great and looks nice as well.
I'm glad it worked out for you. I like to call one Wallace so no one gets jealous 😉
Tell me where you bought trrs jack 4 channels. I can't find it anywhere
A quick Google search should pull one up quickly
Hey, thank you very much for this awesome mod, quite easy to do and you only need a soldering iron in tools to do this. That it retrain all it parts and dont destroy anything is really cool too :D.
Im glad you found it useful. Hope it helps you complete your famicom mod successfully. Do you have a favorite famicom game?
How can you do the adjustment to use US channel 6 on these famicom models you used in this video?
I believe if you are in the usa and you are using the famicom stock rf output you need to tune your TV to channel 95 or 96.
fantastic MOD without cutting or removing any parts! brilliant! :)
Thank you. Are you a modder? 😀
@@ScruffyLookinRGB yes :) I made AV mod for my Famicom, Atari 2600 Jr., made some AV mods on very crappy video quality NOACs and 1:1 famiclones. Awso Sega MD1 and MD2 over clock and region mods :) and on my first NES I added famicom slot in the bottom on the expention slot place, and on one tiny B/W TV I added NOAC inside :)
@@intel386DX You are super awesome my man that is an impressive list I especially like the nes with famicom slot mod🤯👏
@@ScruffyLookinRGB thanks I will share you some photoset if you wish, when I am at the PC :)
@@ScruffyLookinRGB a bit late but, here are some of my mods :)
facebook.com/Retro-World-102895561482822/photos/
bazar.bg/obiava-29205348/nintendo-sega-atari-remontiram-i-modifitsiram
can you do the older model version of this
Thank you so much for this easy AV mod. I implemented it on HVC-CPU-07 board and it worked. The only problem is that video is too bright, light colors tend to be too light or just complete white. For example, the background of the famous Super Mario Bros 3 intro screen is solid white instead of the original creamy color.
I tried different resistor values (from 100ohm to 500ohm) but without success. Should I try different capacitor values (instead of 47uF)?
Yes unfortunately its a trial and error type of situation. I found a japanese blog that had this method here so i used it and it works great for this particular board revision. Other board revisions may vary unfortunately
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Yah, 1k ohm gave me the best color saturation on LCD TV, but my CRT TV couldn’t detect the signal when using that resistor. I settled on 510ohm resistor as the best value between saturated colors and signal reliability.
This is the best AV mod for a Famicom I have ever seen. Awesome video, thank you. I've only changed a controller port on my Atari 7800 and am wanting to try this. I'm wondering how you knew what tab on the trrs jack was video, ground and audio. Did you connect the female trrs to the male 3.5 av cables and do a continuity test? Thank you.
Kris thank you so much🙏 Yes, thats how it is done a simple continuity test. Share your results with me once you are done👍👍👍
I've got a modded AV famicom, i got audio but I can't get the video to work! I tried 3.5 male to female RCA adaptor and direct 3.5 to RCA video cables but neither worked.. Tried Video w/ Mono sound, and Video w/ stereo sound and also didn't work. I don't know what to do with it anymore.
It may be the 3.5 jack and cable don't match try hooking up the red and white to the video in on TV not all cables are hooked up the same. To be sure you need to test from the mobo to the end of the cables to know for sure.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Already solved it thanks! Switching matching colors worked for me. Sadly, i can confirm I got vertical stripes on the screen, and I can't use my Famicom with RF cable... Strange since the mod looks almost the same as yours. Thanks anyway!
Bought all the parts and popped my Famicom open to find my board looks nothing like the one in this video.
Not to worry you can still do the mod check out this video th-cam.com/video/yH0dS_mo77U/w-d-xo.html
about the ceramic capacitor, do the volts matter? because i found one that has 50V and i dont know if it will damage the famicom
50 volts is the rating of the capacitor so the higher the voltage the better. If the original capacitor was 16v and you replace it with a 50v that means it can take a 50 volt charge if for some reason that would even occur. Rule of thumb is its OK to go higher on the original voltage. But you don't want to go lower.
please have more specifications of the necessary components? resistor and ceramic capacitor, or similar.
I did put all that info in my parts list in the description did you miss it?
can i use 100 ohm and 150ohm or it have to be 120ohm ?
You could try and see what happens. I don't think it would hurt anything but I'm no professional.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB i put another comment but it seems yt deleted it because it has a link
i was asking if this trrs port good or not but it seems i cant put a link or else yt delete it
I like the idea of doing a no-cut and fully reversible mod. Also much cheaper than a VAMP board.
I wonder how easy it would be to do the old NES stereo audio mod with this. But also still having it be no-cut. Maybe with a small screwdriver sized potentiometer through one of the vent holes?
Nes stereo mod? Do you mean suddenly stereo or actual real stereo?
Awesome mod diy! Thanks for the upload
Glad you like it!
thanks man hope you try it out.
I just opened my famicom up and found it is the CPU-07 from 1984 motherboard and yours is a later revision. I wonder if I can still follow your tutorial vid. The back part looks the same as yours
If it's the older revision, it won't be the same as this one. But the good news is it easy to swap out the power board for a new one with composit video. Rgr makes a good one.
i love these 😍 such great editing and music choices 🙌
Thank you infinit Loop!
Hey there! Thanks a lot for your video, I have an already modded Famicom but it's getting some weird white faint lines where objects are (in the game) and I'm going to try and get that mod out and do this one as soon as I get some level ups on my soldering skills. Thanks!
I hope you are able to fix the issues your having👍👍👍
Thanks a lot! Should be easy getting the other bad boy out I suppose. Just get the hot glue out, de-solder those wires and caps and see if I don't wreck it more than it is already! :D @@ScruffyLookinRGB
Could you do this with a regular av cable instead of the trs jack?
You most definitely could 👍🏻✨️✨️✨️
Hola amigo una pregunta este mod me puede funcionar para un top loader nes te agradecería tu respuesta ?
I've never tried it but it certainly should.
Ok amigo no va quedar otra que probar con el mío 😅 es que e visto un video donde realizan este mod a un top loader nes pero no especifica o más bien no se alcanza a ver las equivalencias de capacitores la verdad tú lo aces ver muy fácil muy buen video gracias por compartir tus conocimientos 👍
Hi, thanks for the video, I understand about the capacitor in the video, but why do you add a capacitor to the audio output?
Glad you enjoyed the video. I was following a Japanese tutorial on line so i couldn't say for certain. Sorry i don't know exactly.
Can't get mine to work:(
I bought these:
Carbon Resistor, 0.25W ,5%, 120R
Radial alum cap, 220uF, 16V, 8x11
Cap Ceramic Radial RCE Series 1uF 50V
M radial Al elect cap,47uF 16V 85deg C
Just makes a buzzing sound, no picture signal..
Sorry to hear that. I usually double check all my soldier joints. And usually I find things work out good luck
@@ScruffyLookinRGB I got it working, my resistor and ceramic capacitor look different than yours, they're smaller. The colours on mine are a different contrast. Any ideas?
I bought an av modded famicom and it has scrolling static . Do you know what could be causing this ?
It's really difficult to know what the issue is without having it in front of me. But often times a Cap replacement is a good start. Also I find changing out the power board has worked for me. Good luck 👍✨️
Very helpful. Thank you.
I'm glad the video helped you out.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Just got the final part installed today, and it works great!
Hey Scruffy! A question, I mistakenly bought 2200uf capacitors instead of 220uf for the audio.. Can I use them anyways? :) Thanks!
No, you gotta have the right value of microfarads
Will ask for them to change up the order! Thanks
@@ScruffyLookinRGB What is the thinking of putting a 220uf in series with a 1uf, all that does is make a 0.995uf capacitor.
Yeah, the series capacitors confuse me too, from my understanding the 220uF capacitor doesn't do anything here?
So what the green potentiometer looking thing on the main board for?
That is a good question. One I don't know actually. It might set the radio frequency for rf out but that is a guess
@@ScruffyLookinRGB I know you can adjust these to work on us channel 3 but I don't know how to do it
Jim sent me! This is cool way to mod.. no need to drill holes...
Thanks for joing me man! Jim is a cool guy indeed. Thats right no drilling. Have you a famicom that has been av modded?
Got two AV modded Famicoms off of Yahoo a couple years ago. First one was a no-cut one like this, but for some reason it had really bad audio feedback (like a ground loop hum) when connected to my PVM (but fine connected to a Framemeister), so I got one that has AV connectors drilled into the side, and worked fine with my PVM. Probably could have done it myself now that I'm a bit more confident in my soldering, but oh well.
Some times the hum comes from the controller two volume slider. A little ipa to clean the contacts on the pcb board and the 2 prongs on the slider. Or the length of the wires they used on the inside may be too long. But sounds like you have a nice work around. Id love to get my hands on a framemister how do you like it?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB An OSSC is probably a better option now, but when I got the FrameMeister in 2014 it worked great for the most part. Some Genesis games had HDMI handshake issues (due to the Genesis's wonky sync signal I guess). I got a PVM a few years ago so don't use the FM much anymore, unfortunately.
Hey dude, can you post some of the things you used so I look for them
I put all the items I used down in the description even some of the tools. If there is something i missed let me know.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB can you tell us where we can buy the jack male and female please thanks in advance
@scruffylookingrbg i did this mod and i can only get it to work properly when something is plugged into the rf port. Did you have this issue? I'm having it on two tvs with two different famicoms...
I've had issues with video or audio not coming through, but it always comes down to a poor connection on my soldiering.
@ScruffyLookinRGB seems like I needed a bigger ground wire than I was using. All set, thanks! I have another revision I'm trying but getting no luck. Not enough ground like the other but no matter where I ground it I'm having the same issue. Might have to do the full conversion mod on that one.
Scruffy does this method in theory work with all model 1 famicoms where all i have to do is find audio video and ground? Im asking because i see other methods where you have to lift the pin on the ic and remove a transistor among other things.
I have done the pin lifting method before too. But for that revision i haven't tried it this way. In theory it should work. I'll have to try it out.
Just an update. I tried this method and confirmed it also worked with the HVC-CPU-07 model.
can you use the TSSR jack to replace a faulty Atari DC Jack?
I'm not familiar with atari modding so I can't say for sure.
Boss video brother! I'm definitely gonna do this mod next month alongside the OpenTendo project. Wonder if you've heard of that one? Also your editing skills are awesome, haha!
Thanks for the love man👍 Glad you are gonna try it out definitely show me your results. What is the Open Tendo project? Sound creative and intriguing😯
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Welcome my man! 👏🏿 OpenTendo is a completely open source recreation of the front loader NES PCB: github.com/Redherring32/OpenTendo You can get your own newer after market components, and solder it into the board, then add any enhancements onto that as well. It's pretty damn awesome sounding, so I wanna give it a try. 😅
@@RetroSho wow this is very cool is there famicom board as well with fixed jailbar issues, and composite capabilityes? :)
@@RetroSho that sounds cool😯 even has expansion audio capabilities👏If you make this you gotta show me👀Thanks for sharing with us🙏
does it matter on the rating of the 1uf ceramic capacitor? im seeing 1uf 50v ones from my supplier
also is the mod different for the original famicom that has the soft square button controllers?
50v should be plenty.
Thanks! It works great!
I'm glad to hear it 😊
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Forgot to ask but is there a way to remove vertical bars on famicom's output because they are pretty noticable.
Hi, i have some trouble seeing which part is what on the TRRS jack, one part is golden while the rest is silver, am I correct that tje golden part is the video out? Great video btw!
When in doubt use a multimeter it is the surest way. Happy modding👍
I modded mine years ago but I wasn't happy with it because I lost the expansion sound channels on disk system games and some cartridge games like gimmick and it's been such a long time I don't know what to make of the work I did on the board. it's the same process as you did here
Wow you have some very sought after games my man. Interesting I have never heard of anyone loosing their expansion sound after doing a AV mod like this. I was also thinking about this the other day. My thinking is that the expansion sound is actually on the disc system and not the white and red famicom. I wonder if anyone else out there has similar issue?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB there are a handful of games that have extended audio from cartridge hardware that don't show up when piping audio out of the CPU pins or pin 45 so I was told to cut those connections and pipe it out of pin 46 on the cartridge connector because that signal is already amplified and it will modulate through the speaker as is
@@MysteryManBob after cutting the trace you still get the normal audio? But not the expansion audio? I just picked up the cart of Akumajyo densetsu. Im now curious to test the sound with an un-modded famicom vs the one i modded here to see if there is a difference in sound as you mentioned. Thanks for bringing this to my attention i will research it further and ask around.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=14571.0
this sheds some light on the audio mixing situation. I wish there was a diagram to go with it but I think it's pretty straight forward
I did this mod to a HVC-CPU-07 board Famicom and it worked, despite having different soldering locations. The picture is very dark, however. I saw in another comment that you mentioned changing the capacitor value may adjust the brightness of the picture. What values would you suggest trying to get this brighter picture?
I'd say between 220uf an 1000uf. Hope you find the sweet spot.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Thank you so much. I’ll order a couple capacitors and check it out. Another theory I have is that it may be because I am powering my Famicom with a 9v Genesis Adapter rather than the original 10v one. I’ll let you know if I figure it out
Hi, when I do that my screen is darker than RF. Do you know how I can have more light please ?
Try another tv and see if its the same. If it's same you could try a different capacitor value on the video side
@@ScruffyLookinRGB ok i will test others capacitors because i already try to change TV, same.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB What is "Takman" ? I did it with a simple 120Ohm resistor. Is it different ?
Hey man this might be a dumb question but is there a difference between a 16V audio capacitor and a 25V ?
25V means the cap can take in more voltage than 16v⚡️rule of thumb is it's OK to replace a cap with a higher voltage rating never the opposite 😉
Hi. You "used" a 1uf ceramic capacitor which is shaped like a 100 nf capacitor (104). I can't find 1uf capacitor anywhere. Will it work if I use capacitor 104?
Im not sure 😕 you could try it. Id be curious to know how or if it will work with out the ceramic capacitor all together 🤔
doing this mod on two broken HVC-CPU-07 I bought after I replace the voltage regulator on one of them first.
PS the I have to solder the parts in different place then what you show but the place are labeled so I should be easy to do as long as the parts work the same. Thanks for the video
May the force be with you. Let me know how it goes for you.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB ok so I modded the first board and plug it in and all I get for is a gray screen with a black strip moving across it. the mic on controller 2 works and i can hear it from the tv but no video or game audio. I only have one game for it so if my game doesn't work would it be normal to have that screen? Because the nes has a gray screen when it can't read the game so if you turn on a famicon with out a game in it thought AV will you get the same result?
If i was going for the 3 jacks instead of one where would the ground go?
Same place as the one i soldier to in the video there are more places on the board for ground too just look for a spot that says GND for ground.
So connect ground to both video and audio?
Beautiful. It’s really cool that you kept it completely undo-able, I often wrestle with this very thing between being a collector and a fixer…. Perfectly adding a 3.5 Jack in the back would make me so happy, but also keeping it completely original would too…. It’s rough. 😅
I picked up a pristine Famicom a few years back listed as “junk” at a recycle shop. They said it didn’t work, but it was so clean, un-yellowed, all stickers and port covers… and only 500円 it was a no brainer. I figured at the very least I could case swap a functioning Famicom…. but for whatever reason, maybe my bad Japanese understanding (though it WAS priced as junk), it worked completely fine. I still don’t understand the problem.. they had plenty of power adapters for sale that they could’ve used to check it.. 🤷♂️
Thanks. I'm glad there are others out there who agree with me and are unsure to add a jack or leave it as is. This way we can keep the ancient rf intact.
In Japan often junk just means untested. A lot of times they just don't have the time or care to test it.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB The fact that both outputs still work is pretty amazing to me, I’m glad you were able to figure that out.
Many a great deal, just because a Japanese person won’t be bothered to plug something in. 😂 I’m at about a 95% “completely fine” rate for “junk” items so far.
Yes same here I've come across a few that didn't work but were repairable
Awesome, thanks for this. I wanted to avoid RF and also didn't want to shell out for an RGB kit yet. This will do nicely until I do an RGB mod some day.
Im glad this helped you out. Whats the first game you will plop in after your mod?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB I’m in the middle of Metroid now.
Great mod and work! I just did this mod on a GPM board and it worked right away. I am getting those dreaded jailbars however... I tried the filter cap on the PPU and another one on the CPU as some other people recommend but there was no change. Is there anything else that can be done?
Great job man👍 Jail bars are just a part of life I think some people say there are things you can do to minimalize them but I havent attempted it. Some people no matter how much they try say they cant get rid of them. Sorry couldn't be more help with the jail bars issue. If your on instagram or twitter post a shot of your work and tag me in it love to see how it came out. Oh also jail bars show up differently on different TVs too so try another tv and see if anything changes.
much better, good job
Glad you agree with me. Have you done this mod on your famicom?
I'm planning to order a famicom (idk what revision I'll get, lol). Your mod looks the simplest and has minimal impact on the console. Other mods use transistors, is there a difference in signal quality?
The earlier mobo revisions tend to have a much noisier signal. Later revisions have a much clearer signal. The earlier versions need a litte more work to get a clear signal. If you want the best signal the av famicom is the way to go. But if you like the original famicom astetics the later one is easier to mod for av.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB
Thanks for your reply!
Famicom looks like the console from my childhood and AV Famicom is too expensive.
By the way, I looked at the auctions and I have another question: if you just buy something that looks normal but has not been tested, what is the likelihood that everything will be fine with it? If there is just a little rust and swollen capacitors, this is also normal)
Are there problems there, like with the Super Famicom, when one of the processors may be faulty?
Thanks a lot for the video! I did this and works perfectly, but I do get pretty noticeable jailbars. Any way to make them less visible? Thanks
Glad to hear your mod was successful 👌 congratulations 🎊 unfortunately i have never fussed with trying to get rid of jail bars maybe i will in the near future.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB does your have it? Yeah, most of the games I have don’t really bother me, except on super Mario and super Mario land 2
Heyo, I've attempted this mod however I'm unable to produce any video, audio comes through completely clear, I've checked all the pins on my TRRS jack just to make sure the pin out isn't different, only thing I can think of is the fact I'm using a 1/2 watt 120ohm resistor, do you think that'd make the difference between picture and no picture at all?
I don't think that would be the reason. Usually it's a connection issue. I'd double check all your soldier joints.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB seems like my Retrotink 5X was the reason i wasnt getting a picture, directly into my TV tho gives bad waving lines and a loud buzz when the video signal is connected, all my solder joints are definitely good and i'm using the same components listed in the description, its so confusing :S
yo! just an update, got it all working, needed to ground the video connection seperately, must've been something off with my TRRS jack cause for some reason it only grounded the audio, the picture being all wavy and buzzing caused the retrotink to not accept the input aswell, so as soon as i got that fixed the RT5x was working too and looked very good for Composite, thanks for the vid!
Is there a specific voltage for the ceramic capacitor?
Good question i cant say i remember. Sorry man.
I tried this mod in two consoles, one works perfect, but the second one only gives me a blue screen, sometimes Pink screen.
Does the one that gets a pink screen work in rf?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB With the rf cable actually i only get a blue screen.
No sound Only a blue Screen.
Really cool, is it possible to use this mod with a version 6 (hvc-cpu-06) ?
I know they can be av modded just not sure if it can be done using this method.
Excellent mod. One question. Will the microphone feature stay intact?
Glad you like it. And yes the mic will be intact no problem👍👍👍
Yo! It's my first time commenting, but I can't thank you enough for the content you release. I've recently been to Tokyo and managed to get "junk" hardware to restore and repair - and of course, I got a Famicom! I tried this mod on my HVC-CPU-07 revision, and I get a dark picture. Not extremely dark, but abnormally dark. What I tested : Changing the resistor to 220 / 100 ohms, soldering on the VID pin, soldering on the E pin of the transistor, and it changed absolutely nothing. Can that be because of the still connected RF module? After checking various AV mods, I see that a lot of mods remove the 2SA937 transistor. Can that be because of a tired transistor, too? Do you have any suggestion? Thanks!
I appreciate the kind words. HVC-CPU-07 has a different process from this video it involves lifting pin 21 and adjusting the transistor like you mentioned. I plan on making a how to video about it soon so be on the look out and good luck. There are other videos out there that will show you how just take a quick youtube search🙏🙏🏾🙏🏼✨️
Ordered the parts to try this I have the same board I get great video through the coax but no sound so hopefully I get sound with this
Good luck! I hope you get the sound up and running💪
Got my parts in and installed iv got sound now and better video. Thank you so much. The bigger capacitor does seem to barley hit the bottom case and slightly bulge it when tighted. But I don't think it will be a issue.
can you power famicon with 5 volt dc? what is the usb for besides it?
Sorry not sure i think the adapter is 9 or 10 volts. Are you refering to the RF adapter? Im not sure where you saw a usb?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB i posted the comment in the wrong video.
where'd you get the trrs jack?
Thomann Mini Jackplug 3,5mm 4 Pin
I snagged them from a shop called sengoku electronics in akihabara. There should be some at your local online electronics supplier.
What if my board is not the same as yours?
You will have to follow a different process.
Hi, having a little trouble. So my picture is all distorted, I got all the right stuff and i only get a distorted picture and the sound
Its really easy to mix up audio and video wires when soldiering i do it all the time. Trace your wires from the out to the point on the board. also check all your soldier points make sure they are not touching other points. Check and check again. Let me know how it goes for you.
do you have anyway to pm me? i dont think i did anything wrong
@@MrNintendokid45 you can dm me on twitter or instagram. Check the description below. I try to answer my messages when possible.
@@MrNintendokid45 Did you solve this? I think I had exactly the same issue as you., check my video to see if it's similar. th-cam.com/video/AZT_R0ZEQYI/w-d-xo.html
To solve it, I used a different 3.5mm to RCA cable (from a camera), as clearly the one I had wasn't wired in the same way as the TRRS jack. I'm in the UK, so perhaps we (not sure where you're from), have a different 3.5mm to RCA standard than where Scruffy is from.
Hi, I have av modded my famicom refer to your tutorial. It works great. Thank you But when I play the game with no music in the background, there is a very buzzy electricity sound. it's that normal?
It might be the soldering joints or wire length. The longer the wire the more chance for interferience. Also the player two controler can cause an echo if its not cleaned or the volume slider is slightly turned on. But if its none of those things it could just be the console has a bit of noise. Ill check a few of my modded ones at home and see if i get any noise. And good work on your successful mod!
Hi! Thanks for the video. I do have a question. I am kind of an electronics-noob. Could you explain a bit how you manage to do this mod without any transistor or amplifier? Seems like every other mod has some kind of amplification circuitry, why isnt it needed here? Thanks!
Hello Mathieu. I have a confession to make Im no electronics expert my self. I like to tinker and just try things out to see if they work. I found this mod by a Japanese modder and have been able to duplicate it multiple times on my own as for how and why it works sorry I dont have any details in that area. sorry i couldnt be of more help man. If i find the site where I originally found this mod i will share the link but i still have yet to rediscover where it was that I found it. Cheers!
Will this mod work with older, I mean, oldest, version of motherboard?
This mod is only for this revision of the motherboard if you have the older mobo the process is a little different.
what wattage is the resistpor you used?
All resistor values are in the description. Or should be labeled in the video.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB yeah, in the description and video it says that is has to be 120 ohm, but there is no given wattage, does the wattage really matter?
resistors don't have wattage, only ohm values
@@allenbot I mean I know that now, but this was in a period where I didn't and the site I was buying the resisters from said they would handle up to 0.2 watts so that really confused me
This seems almost too simple compared to mods I've seen online. Are you sure it's really just three capacitors and a resistor??? That's impressive. However I do have a couple of questions, if that's alright.
Does this work for all Famicom boards, or is it specific versions? Because I really cannot tell which one I'm buying from Yahoo, nobody's ever that specific.
Or alternatively, is there a way to simply solder in the end of an AV cord? I don't mind having wires bonded to the console, it's already got controller cables stuck into it, and I have a spare AV cord I would prefer to use over buying a jack.
Thank you Tai. Yes it is that simple. This is the board version of the famicom i come accross most often. Unfortunately i have not tried this on any another board versions. But i do think it is possible. You would need to google the schematics to find out where the audio, video and ground can be tapped into. They should be fairly close to the ones in this video. Sorry there is no certain way to tell what board unless you open it up. One thing I might add is if you look into the cartridge slot and see metal around the blue plastic of the slot you have a good chance of getting the same board version as in this video. If it is just the blue plastic with out the surrounding metal than its a different version. I hope you find the one you want.
Oh and yes you can do this with regular av cables just getting them to fit through the same controller port might take some ingenuity.
Good hunting my friend👍
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Thank you! I'm hoping it works, Famicoms are fairly well-known for hating British televisions, and I maaaaaay have ordered one without the RF cable to keep shipping weight down. If all else fails I'm pretty sure some people just sell motherboards for the console so that's always a backup. Thanks for the tutorial, it's really cool!
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Hang on, final question, just to double-check I assume I don't need to ground it if I just wire straight into the audio and video without using the jack? Or should I ground one of the audio channels? Thanks again, I haven't seen this mod anywhere else so don't know who else to ask lol
@@Victor-bm4sl yes you should definitely connect it to ground on the board. I hope your mod goes well. Let me know if you have any questions.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB thank you! I hope it works, I'm not sure which board revision I've got as it hasn't arrived yet, but I reeeeeeally hope it's the GPM-02 as that would make it so much easier. Really glad I found this mod when I did!
Hi fellow, your video is top! Do you know if can I make on a board hvc-cpu-07??
Take a close look at the comments here there is someone who has been able to do it but said the picture was a little too saturated. He said he had better luck with the pin 21 method.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB thanks for the response... The pin 21 I think its too intrusive... But it's OK!
Any chance you could share a pinout of your TRRF jack I want to make sure i have mine set right but its not the same brand as yours
It helps if you have a multi-meter to test the connectivity for each line sorry i dont have a pin out at the moment.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB right I have the multimeter ready to go just wanna verify
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Oh duh I just realized I can check with the male cable, I'm a dummy, thanks for the fast reply!
Will the video out work for PAL also or NTSC only. Thanks for uploading this
That is a darn good question sorry im not quite sure about that
I need help finding the exact jack that ships to the US.
I just googled TRRS jack and this popped up they even have a tutorial about how to check the continuity. Not affiliated with them at all. www.showmecables.com/3-5mm-trrs-female-solder-connector-plastic hope that helps you man.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB My Famicom arrived and my board looks very different from yours. There's pins labeled video ground and sou which I assume is sound but in different spots. Can I do the same modification with same parts on this board using those pins?
@@palen2890 In short yes you should be able to in theory, another viewer in the comments here said they had luck doing the mod this way with the HVC-CPU-07 board version. What board version do you have?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB It's a HVC-CPU-08. I can't find any videos or images on modding this specific board. I also can't really tell which pin is supposed to be the video and audio outs. The ground is isolated but the labels for the other two are around several pins that could be it.