Thank you for the alignment procedure! I've tried a couple to varying success, I will try this one on my next FDS to be fixed up. I have the same Twin Famicom too! But it doesn't seem to detect the disk being loaded, it does nothing when disk is inserted. The drive tested good in a stand alone enclosure. Any ideas where to look?
I'm glad you like the alignment procedure! It is very strange that it won't recognize a disk, you might want to take a look at the ribbon cable connecting the FDS to the motherboard and see if that is the problem.
After checking Connector E, K, and the connector on the drive, I found no issues. However, I did notice near connector E, there are some corrosions on the traces. Sure enough, they had no continuity! When I push/pull on the PCB, it would occasionally recognize the disk being inserted. So I soldered up some copper strands to the traces, and now it reads disks perfectly! Thank you for the suggestion! Twin Famicom saved from the Junk section. Also I did not need to swap my R103 and R104, they were correct. It appears that only earlier Twin Famicoms had this mistake. R103 should be 2.2Mohms and R104 should be 1.2Mohms.
Great video. Love my Twin Famicom. Also love that they labeled everything on the bottom of the board too. The 8k2 to 2k2 resistor swap on the audio board puts the volume up to the same level as the Famicom and NES. Not sure if you did that too but that was also a “mistake” from the factory.
Yes they are awesome aren't they. Thanks for the info I was looking to swap out that resistor but it looks like it doesn't have that issue on my board revision.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB neat. Thanks 👍. I've got a belt on the way from China, but on the fence on getting one of these see through-types from the Amazon jungle (in Japan too). Thanks for the video btw, interesting regarding the resistor swap. Is flaw on all twins with this name?
It's not a bad idea to have both. One good thing about the clear Mobilonbands is the ease of clean up no dried up fused rubber that gets all over the place. I'm not sure if all an-500r have the same issue but I know the earlier versions do. I'm glad my video was helpful. Definitely check out part 2 because there is another resistor that needs swapping out I didn't get to it in time for this video.
Awesome intro! Damn right, man! The AN-500R TwinFami is easily one of the most aesthetically-pleasing consoles ever made! I've wanted one ever since I first saw a pic over a decade ago. 🤩👌 One day soon.... 😤 (And now I know exactly what to do to it when I get one! 👍)
I finally got my NES AV famicom, traded a guy straight up and got games with it...only complaint is it was missing the expansion bay cover , but was overall very clean, got box with matching serial number console/manuals.
yeah i just need a famicom ram adapter for disk system then i can either A get a real disk system or B get the FD stick to emulate it which i might do@@ScruffyLookinRGB
Off topic, but your mention of the blaring audio is something I'm actually experiencing with a Model 1 non-TMSS Sega Genesis. What do you suppose could be the issue? I tried re-capping it (outright, completely) the problem still persists. Tried various PSUs, no change. It's happening with the right audio channel only. That is, the headphone port and the coaxial port which apparently uses right channel audio vs composite which uses left channel audio). Any idea why it's doing this?
Rubber is an interesting material, for the most part in the past it was all they had but proved to not have a good lifespan in bands or toys made from it. Kind of an overlooked tech advancement sector but we've come a long way in flexible material options. Pretty standard thing with getting any FDS drive, they all need band replacements but I don't blame sellers for not fixing that though. That is a big oversight for a company as big as Sharp but at least it doesn't damage anything, just sounds awful heh. Been looking at Twin Famicoms lately so good to know about that fault I'd not heard of before.🙂
True, I'm sure they were not thinking about 10 years down the line or 40 years down the line for that matter. Gotta hand it to nintendo they made some good quality consoles 👍🏻✨️✨️✨️
Thank you for this video. I've currently been eyeballing a twin sharp in this exact color for a while now. I want one but was curious about maintenance and mods.
Awesome video. I had no idea about the audio problem!! I will definitely be fixing mine now. Thank you! I used to replace bands and had some sort of hack, but that was years ago and sadly, I’ve forgotten it… 😢. I’m hoping your band video has the same hack. 😂 I had the exact brand of bands you have, strangely though, on a few listings on Yahoo Auc years back, a lot of refurbishers were making a very clear point that they used original type rubber bands, as the new type mobilon bands lose their strength quickly. I have no idea if it’s true, but Japanese are usually pretty nerdy about that type of stuff. I still use the mobilon though…
Thank you. I discovered this after many stubborn, unfixable fds drives. Yes, I have also realized that mobilon bands have a shelf life in my case about 6 years. I've also heard that rubber bands may last longer. I do like how mobilon bands don't fuse to the spindles like the old rubber band did. Makes clean up unnecessary. It would be cool to find a longer lasting solution than rubberbands or Mobilonbands 🤔
Thanks for the video This will help a dedicated collectors (who doesn't know Japanese) to maintain their twin famicom. It would be better though If you only clarify the intent of the vid in the title instead of the currently vague
The design of this console reminds me alot of the JVC X-Eye (AKA The Wondermega in Japan). It was a Sega Genesis and Sega CD fused together in a similar fashion. I've been wanting to get one simply for how cool it looks. It's also the only US model to have ever gotten a startup bios that uses the piano song usually seen in in Japanese and European CD systems.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB I really want to buy an X-Eye, but here's my dilemma: I already have a genesis. So it feels like a waste of money and an impulse buy to get an X-Eye when I could get a regular CD system for much cheaper. But I also have a sentimental attachment to the US model 1 since that's the version my dad had before it broke down. Thing is, there's a reason the model 1s are so rare in the first place. It's because of their design's incessant use of so many cheap capacitors which were notorious for leaking all over the boards and destroying the console. Giving this model an exceptionally short life span compared to the later models. But I've heard the capacitor fluid CAN be removed by someone with experience with this stuff. As well as replacing the capacitors with better and newer ones. But that job is pretty complex. I saw someone on Reddit who had completely refurbished their US model 1 and even replaced the red and green LED lights. It. Was. Beautiful!!! But again, that's quite a daunting task. And the X-Eye also looks pretty dope too. So that's why I'm torn on what to do. I'm thinking I should get an X-Eye anyway since I feel like it would last longer. I've never even soldered before so there's no way I could repair a model 1.
Oh nice! I've never dealt with replacing the drive motor but I do know fds drives are easily swapped with the twin famicom at least for the one in this video . You could pick up a junk fds replace the belt. And once it's up and running swap it out with the twins drive.
Always loved the look of the Twin Famicom, but I've always heard how unreliable they were. This has me confident that I'd be able to maintain it if I ever ended up owning one.
I just learned where you got “scruffy looking” from! It’s from the beginning of Star Wars the empire strikes back! Just got a VHS tape of that movie today from the 80’s and it’s a cool movie
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Yes, there were many in Hong Kong and Taiwan during the early 1990s. Some shops provided services to increase the RAM in game doctors of certain models which came with less RAM than their maximum capacities so that you could play games requiring more disks, and they also provided services to modify the disk systems to become writable. With special software on a disk, we could copy any disk data. There were even expansion cartridges for some game doctor models to allow real-time saving of game progress to RAM and to disks. We used to buy games on disks rather than on cartridges, and we could reuse the disks we had when we bought new games. They were dirt cheap.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Some software allows you to hack games by changing certain values on the disks. Though, we had to look up the addresses and values on gaming magazines.
same absolutely HATE intros like that, wastes everyone’s time. Though I get that stretching a 3 minutes content really long leads to greater passive income in the future.
Famicom Disk System Belt Replacement How to Video th-cam.com/video/cEJ_-PThT7M/w-d-xo.html
First time I ever see someone calibrate these correctly! Well done!
Hurts my soul when ppl instruct viewers to tune the motor speed
Thanks. I always hate to turn thoese little adjusters 🫣
Thank you for the alignment procedure! I've tried a couple to varying success, I will try this one on my next FDS to be fixed up. I have the same Twin Famicom too! But it doesn't seem to detect the disk being loaded, it does nothing when disk is inserted. The drive tested good in a stand alone enclosure. Any ideas where to look?
I'm glad you like the alignment procedure! It is very strange that it won't recognize a disk, you might want to take a look at the ribbon cable connecting the FDS to the motherboard and see if that is the problem.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Will give that a try, thank you!
After checking Connector E, K, and the connector on the drive, I found no issues. However, I did notice near connector E, there are some corrosions on the traces. Sure enough, they had no continuity! When I push/pull on the PCB, it would occasionally recognize the disk being inserted. So I soldered up some copper strands to the traces, and now it reads disks perfectly! Thank you for the suggestion! Twin Famicom saved from the Junk section.
Also I did not need to swap my R103 and R104, they were correct. It appears that only earlier Twin Famicoms had this mistake. R103 should be 2.2Mohms and R104 should be 1.2Mohms.
Great video. Love my Twin Famicom. Also love that they labeled everything on the bottom of the board too. The 8k2 to 2k2 resistor swap on the audio board puts the volume up to the same level as the Famicom and NES. Not sure if you did that too but that was also a “mistake” from the factory.
Yes they are awesome aren't they. Thanks for the info I was looking to swap out that resistor but it looks like it doesn't have that issue on my board revision.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB oh awesome. I didnt know some had it fixed already.
Hey there, would you say the longer elastic bands work better, or worse than the shorter ones used prior?
Hey mate, I'd say they work the same. The real question is if they last any longer or not.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB neat. Thanks 👍. I've got a belt on the way from China, but on the fence on getting one of these see through-types from the Amazon jungle (in Japan too).
Thanks for the video btw, interesting regarding the resistor swap. Is flaw on all twins with this name?
It's not a bad idea to have both. One good thing about the clear Mobilonbands is the ease of clean up no dried up fused rubber that gets all over the place. I'm not sure if all an-500r have the same issue but I know the earlier versions do.
I'm glad my video was helpful. Definitely check out part 2 because there is another resistor that needs swapping out I didn't get to it in time for this video.
Awesome intro indeed! Subscribed!!!
Thanks for the sub!
Funky fresh beats to start off a new Scruffy video! Nice work! Love the red Twin Famicom
Thank you Retro Remmy 👌Appreciate it!
Awesome intro! Damn right, man! The AN-500R TwinFami is easily one of the most aesthetically-pleasing consoles ever made! I've wanted one ever since I first saw a pic over a decade ago. 🤩👌 One day soon.... 😤 (And now I know exactly what to do to it when I get one! 👍)
They sure are beautiful 🤩 Hope one finds its way into your collection. They are great conversational pieces ❤️
Excellent video! I'll have to reference it when I get on my next build!
Glad to hear it man 👍🏻
I finally got my NES AV famicom, traded a guy straight up and got games with it...only complaint is it was missing the expansion bay cover , but was overall very clean, got box with matching serial number console/manuals.
Good work. AV Famicom is a really clean looking model 👌 I've been modding quite a few of them as of late 🔧👌✨️
yeah i just need a famicom ram adapter for disk system then i can either A get a real disk system or B get the FD stick to emulate it which i might do@@ScruffyLookinRGB
@@ScruffyLookinRGBHDMI mod? I suppose I could just browse your channel for the answer 😅…
I have never done an hdmi mod on a famicom i dont know they exhist or not @pherja
@@ScruffyLookinRGB sorry, I was just guessing when I read the word “mod”. Now I see the RGB in your name is a deep characteristic. 😃
Off topic, but your mention of the blaring audio is something I'm actually experiencing with a Model 1 non-TMSS Sega Genesis. What do you suppose could be the issue? I tried re-capping it (outright, completely) the problem still persists. Tried various PSUs, no change. It's happening with the right audio channel only. That is, the headphone port and the coaxial port which apparently uses right channel audio vs composite which uses left channel audio). Any idea why it's doing this?
Sorry I have no experience with the genesis unfortunately 😢
Hello I tried to repair an AN 500B model changing capacitors. The sound its still with distorsion. Do I have do this too?
I mean change R103 and R104
It may not be necessary on revisions after 1986.
I have a working FDS which I repaired (just belt replacement) and three Sharp Twin Famicoms in the 'to do' pile.
3 in a pile?! Oh nice! ❤❤❤
Awesome! Loved the vid. Ya got my sub!
Awesome thank you!
Really cool you reused the original parts. Amazing vid!
I'm glad you like it
I wonder if anyone has found a fabric belt for the drive. I've heard they last MUCH longer than the rubber ones.
Fabric belt that would be interesting to see😮
I wouldn't consider the louder expansion audio to be a flaw, it is a matter of choice.
I'm pretty sure they didn't mean for it to be quite so imbalanced
Rubber is an interesting material, for the most part in the past it was all they had but proved to not have a good lifespan in bands or toys made from it. Kind of an overlooked tech advancement sector but we've come a long way in flexible material options. Pretty standard thing with getting any FDS drive, they all need band replacements but I don't blame sellers for not fixing that though.
That is a big oversight for a company as big as Sharp but at least it doesn't damage anything, just sounds awful heh. Been looking at Twin Famicoms lately so good to know about that fault I'd not heard of before.🙂
True, I'm sure they were not thinking about 10 years down the line or 40 years down the line for that matter. Gotta hand it to nintendo they made some good quality consoles 👍🏻✨️✨️✨️
Thank you for this video. I've currently been eyeballing a twin sharp in this exact color for a while now. I want one but was curious about maintenance and mods.
Glad it was helpful! Not to bad for an awesome console. IMO.
Awesome video. I had no idea about the audio problem!! I will definitely be fixing mine now. Thank you!
I used to replace bands and had some sort of hack, but that was years ago and sadly, I’ve forgotten it… 😢. I’m hoping your band video has the same hack. 😂
I had the exact brand of bands you have, strangely though, on a few listings on Yahoo Auc years back, a lot of refurbishers were making a very clear point that they used original type rubber bands, as the new type mobilon bands lose their strength quickly. I have no idea if it’s true, but Japanese are usually pretty nerdy about that type of stuff. I still use the mobilon though…
Thank you. I discovered this after many stubborn, unfixable fds drives. Yes, I have also realized that mobilon bands have a shelf life in my case about 6 years. I've also heard that rubber bands may last longer. I do like how mobilon bands don't fuse to the spindles like the old rubber band did. Makes clean up unnecessary. It would be cool to find a longer lasting solution than rubberbands or Mobilonbands 🤔
Great video! Thanks for making it.
Glad you liked it!
Wow! I would like to buy one if I can find it in retro game shops when I visit Japan again on May.
If you can find one for a decent price, you should! 👌✨️✨️✨️
Thanks for the video
This will help a dedicated collectors (who doesn't know Japanese) to maintain their twin famicom.
It would be better though If you only clarify the intent of the vid in the title instead of the currently vague
Thanks for the suggestion much appreciated 👍🏻
The design of this console reminds me alot of the JVC X-Eye (AKA The Wondermega in Japan).
It was a Sega Genesis and Sega CD fused together in a similar fashion. I've been wanting to get one simply for how cool it looks.
It's also the only US model to have ever gotten a startup bios that uses the piano song usually seen in in Japanese and European CD systems.
Very oool I've seen a wonder mega a few times here in Japan. Might be a fun one to Refurb 😮
@@ScruffyLookinRGB I really want to buy an X-Eye, but here's my dilemma: I already have a genesis. So it feels like a waste of money and an impulse buy to get an X-Eye when I could get a regular CD system for much cheaper. But I also have a sentimental attachment to the US model 1 since that's the version my dad had before it broke down. Thing is, there's a reason the model 1s are so rare in the first place. It's because of their design's incessant use of so many cheap capacitors which were notorious for leaking all over the boards and destroying the console. Giving this model an exceptionally short life span compared to the later models. But I've heard the capacitor fluid CAN be removed by someone with experience with this stuff. As well as replacing the capacitors with better and newer ones. But that job is pretty complex. I saw someone on Reddit who had completely refurbished their US model 1 and even replaced the red and green LED lights. It. Was. Beautiful!!! But again, that's quite a daunting task. And the X-Eye also looks pretty dope too. So that's why I'm torn on what to do. I'm thinking I should get an X-Eye anyway since I feel like it would last longer. I've never even soldered before so there's no way I could repair a model 1.
It sounds like a lot of work but seems like it would be worth it to have a clean working system 😃
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Yeah, you're right. I guess I'll go for the X-Eye then.
Hope you find a good deal
I have the exact same one... except my drive motor is shot, and a simple belt replacement will not fix it. :(
Oh nice! I've never dealt with replacing the drive motor but I do know fds drives are easily swapped with the twin famicom at least for the one in this video . You could pick up a junk fds replace the belt. And once it's up and running swap it out with the twins drive.
Yeah, I may have to do that someday.
Great Video about something I didn’t even know i was interested in! 😂
I'm so glad!
Is R103 brown, red, green, gold (1.2M Ohms 5%) and R104 red, red, green, gold (2.2M Ohms 5%?) Because in the video they look to be the same colors.
They are slightly different best thing to test the resistance with a multimeter to be sure. 👍🏻✨️
oh sick you teach how to align the heads as well, always wondered about that
Yes it's not too difficult definitely check out the video in the card when I announce it in the video.
Those Mobilon bands are made of TPU.
Thank you.
I don’t mind the blaring sound
It's hard to tell unless you compare it. But every one has their own taste.
hi how about AN-505?
As far as I know the an-505 is balanced OK
I love the intro it was a lot of fun. I can tell that this is a labor of love. I really enjoy your moding vids. 👍😀🔥💯
Glad you enjoy it! YOU DA MAN!👍🏻🙏🙏🙏🤩
Man my twin doesn’t play the disk the belts are good and i will start loading but never play. I need a new disk system for mine i think
It's probably just needs adjusting. Definitely check out the video pinned in the comments. The method for replacing belts has never failed me.
Always loved the look of the Twin Famicom, but I've always heard how unreliable they were. This has me confident that I'd be able to maintain it if I ever ended up owning one.
the belt is a bit of a pain but its such a beautiful console its hard to say no. Glad this could help you make a decision.
Awesome new mods intro music! Another great mod video showing the twin famicoms of some love.
Glad you like it! 👍🏻 🙌🙏
SCRUFF'D and BUFF'D!
Indeed.
Loud music
I heard no difference in the sound
I just learned where you got “scruffy looking” from! It’s from the beginning of Star Wars the empire strikes back! Just got a VHS tape of that movie today from the 80’s and it’s a cool movie
I'm glad to now "officially" have you on board. Many consider ESB the greatest of the Star Wars Saga ✨️ I'm pleased you enjoyed it 👍🏿 😀 😄
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Thanks! I also got the third one so I might watch that soon, but for now I might play on my twin Famicom for a bit 👍
Too bad that you can't use a game doctor on it with that built-in disk system.
Was there a game doctor for the famicom?
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Yes, there were many in Hong Kong and Taiwan during the early 1990s. Some shops provided services to increase the RAM in game doctors of certain models which came with less RAM than their maximum capacities so that you could play games requiring more disks, and they also provided services to modify the disk systems to become writable. With special software on a disk, we could copy any disk data. There were even expansion cartridges for some game doctor models to allow real-time saving of game progress to RAM and to disks. We used to buy games on disks rather than on cartridges, and we could reuse the disks we had when we bought new games. They were dirt cheap.
@@ScruffyLookinRGB Some software allows you to hack games by changing certain values on the disks. Though, we had to look up the addresses and values on gaming magazines.
Very cool history lesson hank you😮❤
bro u need a pop filter
Noted
Nobody "needs" a pop filter.
how long is this pissing intro and also why does it sound ai generated
Was it really that long? The song is definitely not ai generated 😮🎶
Too long unnecessary intro
same absolutely HATE intros like that, wastes everyone’s time. Though I get that stretching a 3 minutes content really long leads to greater passive income in the future.
Are you referring to the summery intro (background information) or the channel montage intro? (opening credit type)
You can just skip.
Video starts at 2:18
something something low attention span