How To Overhaul Bike Headset - Remove/Clean/Install New Bearings
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- I overhaul the threaded headset on a 1984 Schwinn Le Tour Luxe. The cups and races were good, so I didn't have to replace those. I cleaned everything and installed new bearings.
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I have to say, " thanks" for your videos. So far I have taken apart my whole headset and shocks, clean, lube and reinstalled. You have saved me allot of money allowing me to do it all myself. You are excellent at detailing and explaining all steps.
i know right he helped me repurpose a seized 20'' rear cog. he knows exactly what he's doing.
Old school TH-cam is the best. TV in the background. 😅
Thank you, RJ. Whenever I need to learn something about bike maintenance you seem to have a video that answers all my questions.
Wow, it’s extremely convenient that I looked up this video and it happens to be for that exact same bike 😂
Finally! I didn't think it would be so hard to find a threaded tutorial that hit all the parts I needed. Bonus points for being a Schwinn (Giant) model similar to the one I'm working on now! Seriously, mine is a traveler, and it looks like this one is, too.
Oh, also. I'm subbed now.
Once again RJ, you made my day.. Cheers! (micro poem dedicated to the man with the best bike mechanics videos)
another video that I use for the maintenance of my bicycle, very grateful friend : D
Love you videos as usual, but was very excited to see your Airedale in the background! My family has had Airedales for over 35 years.
I grew up with an Airedale. Then my wife I have had a couple of them.
Thanks! More on the way! :D
Thank you. The adjustment process you showed was especially helpful.
Keep soaking the stem with penetrating oil. You might try removing the locknut and that might make it easier to drip oil down from the top. Then flip the bike over and drip spray oil in from the bottom of the fork (into the steerer tube). Let it soak and try twisting. Keep repeating until it is out.
Is the stem wedge loose? If not, loose the quill expander bolt, and tap down on it with a hammer. If get that loose, you might be able to remove the bolt and get the wedge out from the bottom of the fork. You might be able to get more penetrating oil in from the bottom side. You might also be able to get a rod or something up there, and impact it from the bottom.
I found one of my bikes that has a frozen stem. It's a steel stem though. But I will try to make a video on freeing that.
Unscrew that bolt part way out so that it is still in the wedge. Then tap down on the bolt to free the wedge. Remove the headset lock nut to give better access to get penetrating oil down into the steerer tube. Turn the bike upside down and get penetrating oil in from the hole in the bottom of the fork/headset. Keep working at it.
helps to anchor the fork solidly before final locking! Common way is to hold front wheel between legs. IF not, the final adjustment will either frustrate you or be slightly off.
The quill expander bolt screws into the wedge. When you unscrew the bolt, does it just come up, or are you able to move it up and down. If it just comes up and seems to be screwed into something solid, thats the wedge that is stuck. Tap the top of the bolt with a hammer to try to free the wedge.
Thank you,this was simple and informative.
Okay, I built a brace for the forks out of a 2x4 that I bolted together on each side.
I got the help of my neighbor, and we were able to twist the stem within the forks. It came out about 2-3 millimeters.
I'm stocked that it moved, but I'm going to need a little help to get some outward force while the stem gets twisted.
My hands are so worn out from gripping the handlebars and trying to pull them out that I'm having trouble typing.
I might have to just call the frame a loss.
Thanks for the video...I really enjoy your bike videos series...pleases upload more
great videos! a lot of help- just working on a similar Raleigh
Like my 1969 Raleigh Tourist rod-brake bike?
Try PB Blaster. It's stronger than WD-40 as a penetration oil. What are the fork and stem made out of? Steel/Aluminum?
Then you probably have galvanic corrosion which can be a bear. You need to have some grease between the stem and the fork to help prevent a reaction between the two metals. Check out my video "Removing Stuck Aluminum Seatpost From Steel Bike Frame" for some ideas of what to try. You might need to sacrifice the stem. Because banging on the stem as you don't want to damage the bearing races.
Thanks for the video RJ, your dog looked a little bored but I'm sure it has watched you do many videos.
I'm pretty sure the stem is aluminum and the fork is steel. It's a Schwinn very similar to yours. Mine was sitting out in the elements for a couple of years. Was probably more dusty than wet where it was, so corrosion isn't as bad as the gunk.
good vid...helpful..detailed...excellent..thanks...I'm rebuilding a 90's Stumpy so this is very useful.
Thanks RJ you are the man!
absol, if you are going to tear apart your headset, you might as well replace them as they are relatively cheap.
HOW MUCH IS THE BEARING SET ?ALSO ANY WEB PAGE FOR ONLINE SHOPPING AT CANADA ??thanks regards
I buy them for about $2 each at my local bike shop. No idea what they cost there.
Where I live they cost between 20-50 cents xD
Cool! Actually this was a 1984 Schwinn LeTour Luxe.
Welsh Terrier spotting!
Dude you are awesome 👍 love your videos!!
Ok, this is driving me crazy but I just have to ask. In a different video you posted on how to install caged bearings you have the flat part of the caged bearings facing down so the bearings are on the cones (races) but also riding upwards within the cups. In other words the sections with the folded over fingers are pointed up instead of down. Did you do it differently when putting this bike together by installing the flat part of the caged bearings facing up into the cups or are my eyes playing tricks on me? I love ALL your videos and have learned more from you than anyone else on the interwebs. Thank you!
I'm new to working on bikes, so I haven't got all of the terminology down.
So, I looked up what the wedge is, and I didn't see anything like that come out when I removed the quill expander bolt. I just tried installing the bolt in from the forks to see if I could pull it out. It didn't budge.
I'm really hoping I don't have to scrap the stem, but better the stem than the forks.
This bike (Schwinn-approved Giant) is kind of a test run for a real Chicago-made Schwinn I want to restore.
It was the 1" size. 1 1/8" is not very common for threaded forks.
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Interesting bike stand and clamp - do you have a video or any information on that?
Okay. The wedge is free. Maybe that will reduce the resistance from the rest of the stem. Even when I loosened the wedge, it didn't fall out on its own. I think I'm going to try to find a brush or something to clean out the head tube.
It couldn't hurt. There will be that much less gunk for the tube to seize on.
Well nix on that video. Them stem was stuck, but not very stuck. A tap of the hammer on the bolt to free the wedge, and it loosened up. Hopefully I will find another bike with a frozen stem.
Can I use Castrol "Multipurpose grease" for the grease?
Thank you just finish lubing mine.
How can you tell if the bearings in the headset need to be replaced?
The ones in my bike are still the original (about 20 years old) and have likely never had any maintenance, but the handlebars still turn easily and smoothly.
I just had my 84 Le Tour Luxe powder coated. Now instead of Champagne, it's Bengal Red (like a firetruck). I've started reassembling and noticed my crown race is cracked! My large brother owned the bike for 20 years and also bent the front and back axles, so it doesn't surprise me that the crown race is cracked. I know this is a 1" fork, but is that a 26.4mm crown race? My powder coat obliterates any markings. My LBS measured it at 23.3mm, which I know is wrong. Thanks for any info! BTW, I like the TV on and the dog cruising around. Makes me feel like I'm there.
Was the race remove when coating? Was the area where the race sits power coated? Did you try to press the race on the the coated race seat area. There are crown races made that are split. Probably would be a 26.4mm www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-headsets.html
Great video
great job,useful
how important is it to replace your bearings? and at what point should you replace them?
My fork seems to be attached to the stem of my bike. The bike is a French made "Regina sport" if that helps.
Is paint thinner the same as white spirit?
how often should I service the heatset?
My stem is stuck pretty bad inside of the tube attached to the forks. I've set the bike upside-down with a liberal application of WD-40 applied inside of the fork tubes. I'm going to let it sit overnight and hope it will loosen up.
Failing that, do you have any other suggestions?
Love these videos. I'm learning bike mechanics for free! You should do some shorter videos (think tid-bits of info in 30 second snippets) that quickly answer questions. As an example , a short video highlighting the differences between de-greaser and paint thinner, or the pros and cons of different type of greases/lubricants would be very useful.
Hey RJ, just watched your other vid of you converting your Trek 1000’s headset to threadless from threaded. You used homemade tools to do the job there, but didn’t seem to need them on this video. What was the difference?
I just bought a the same exact Trek a couple days ago and it needs a headset overhaul big time. Trying to figure out how to get it done. Thanks!
I didn't remove the cups or crown race in this video.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Got it! Thanks for your help.
The 1000 that I got has pretty bad paint so I'm thinking of scraping it down and repainting. I'll let you know how it goes.
I love your vids just to let you know. Your instructions are quite clear. I do have a question. If I am understanding right the threadless heads have a cup at the top and bottom that are pressed in. It looks to me that on the older threaded heads you press in a cup at the bottom and a cone at the top. Is this correct? And those will be 1" and not 1 1/8"
It varies. Threadless I think typically have cups pressed in both ends. Some threaded do too. Take it as they come.
I see. Thanks
6:26 Does the steerer tube not need a coating of grease or so or it doesn't matter?
It protects the steerer from corrosion.
Can you make a vid showing how to do it on a new (model) road bike?
Hey, not a bad idea. I'll see what I can do.
I'm just gonna go ahead and leave a comment here.
Hi shyflirt1. I am currently stripping an old road bike and I am having issues trying to remove the stem and forks. Mine has the same stem configuration as your in the video with a single screw in the top of the stem. When unscrewed your stem seems to slide out really easily however mine doesn't budge at all. I have tried brute force, WD40 and other methods but nothing has worked. Do you have any tips or ideas why the stem doesn't coming out?
Hi ! I'm rebuilding my 90s Giant Perigee and just had it repainted. Finding that two of the races don't fit back in tight.
The cups? You may need to remove paint from inside the head tube.
@@RJTheBikeGuy, they fit loose, not tight.
@@jimplummer4879 Not sure. Maybe there had been paint before then.
@@RJTheBikeGuy , there was originally paint. Had to order new crown race kit.
@@jimplummer4879 If it's the crown race, then you may have gotten the wrong size. Anyways, I can't really tell you anything without having worked on the bike, and knowing everything that was done.
unusual top head tube cup on that schwinn?,is this a common thing on the early schwinn bikes?.
iv'e never seen any like that before & we don't see many schwinns here in australia.
the early ones seem to be a rarity here although there are some modern stingrays & the occaisional mountain bike iv'e seen on ebay,are these ones made in asia just like many other modern bikes?.another great video rj,keep up the good work :)
+neil crompton This was one of the lightweight Schwinns and not a common model. I have seen others like this. I am not sure. Schwinns used to be made in USA.
yeah it seemed strange the top cup is reversed.
it has a flat race attached to the head tube & the knurled/threaded ring acts as the cup,yeah early ones were made in the usa,but the modern ones are made in asia right?.
my giant boulder se (2000 model) has a decal on the bottom tube that says designed in the usa (with american flag pic) made in china :)
Yeah, Schwinn isn't what it used to be.
supermarket bikes,lol
or the fork tube? is it 1" or 1 1/8"?
Can you fit a straight 1 1/8 steerer into a tapered headset? I have a Giant ATX 2 with an overdrive head tube and I recently bought a second hand rockshox argyle fork with a straight steerer. It was a mistake on my behalf not checking if it was the correct size.
You couldn't use the same headset. You would need to find a headset to fit the fork and the headtube...if there is one.
RJ, my bikes fork doesnt come with a gap for the lock washer (is an old and cheap bike made in Mexico, named bufalo BIMEX, with double bars frame and rod brakes), what can I do in this case? Thanks for all the videos!
I am not sure what you mean?
Hi RJ, the fork is threaded all around, there is no canal or gap for the pin in the lock washer. I am using this type of frame:
tienda.benotto.com/Producto/53490.html
And this headset kit:
tienda.benotto.com/Producto/52045.html
My english is not the best, sorry for the trouble and thanks again.
It's not keyed. File off the key in the spacer.
Ok, thanks a lot!
Can you repost this video with the Hey Viewers beginning. I cant watch it without.
LOL! This is an older views. I can't remember when I started that.
@@RJTheBikeGuy haha, I managed to listen on anyway, great info as always!
What did you use to clean the ball bearing??
I cleaned the old bearings in some paint thinner just so they weren't so greasy. Then I took them to the bike shop so they could match them, and I got brand new bearings.
Hi RJ, Currently working on an old mtb. The headset locknut will not budge at all. I've tried penetrating oil to no avail. I'm happy to replace the headset but don't want to replace the forks. Any ideas on what to do?
Hmmm...Get a wrench on it, and whack the handle with something like a wooden mallet, in the direction to remove it. Often the impacts will help break things like that loose.
Hi RJ, It did the trick.. eventually! Thanks for your help.
you sound like mr bikeman4u
Hey RJ, I lost one of the bearings for my bike headset and i dont know which size it is?? The other bearing that i did not lose has 22 ball bearings in it?? If you know what size the other one could be please help me??!!!!
i don't know what size it is either.
Take them to the bike shop and they can find what size you need and get them for you.
I cannot get the knurled threaded race off (1:50) it is locked solid! I tried wd40 but its just seized... I don't have a pipe wrench either so what should I do?!
Make sure you have the washer above it off! If the washer is still there, you might need to knock it loose. Tap the edge of the washer with a flat tip screwdriver and a hammer. Light taps.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Yes the locknut and washer are already off, that was the easy part... then this top race should just unscrew by hand but it's totally seized :(
@@TheRealD4 Having the same exact issue at the moment! Did you manage to get it loose?
what is the diameter for that headset?
I was searching for a video of installing a crown race on a steel 1" fork that is new. The reason is that although I've serviced crown races for decades, I've never installed a new fork that never had the crown race on it. I noticed it was too tight to go on, I froze the fork and warmed up the race (from the old fork) and it still didn't seem to go on, so I backed off. Do you have to mill down the seat to match the race? This was powder coated and I wore the edge off of it a bit and some of the paint off with a 280 grit wrapped inside a pipe. Still no go. My experience with other bearing races and press fit is that if the hot and frozen part don't go on easy then it might crack.
My cheap vernier shows 26.9 and 27.1 mm between the old and new. So I suspect I should be going down at least to 26.99 for a 27 to fit? The old one wasn't loose or anything, but it came out as expected.
You probably have the wrong size crown race. You probably got a 1" ISO crown race and trying to install it on a 1" JIS fork.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headset_(bicycle_part)
What tool did u use to get the actual headset off
At 10:25
+skullboyrhys A hex wrench. www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000C14J9K/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
Paint thinner and automotive grease? Replacing original bearings that aren't' cracked and worn? There are other ways to do this without getting high off paint thinner fumes and having to make a run to the bike shop. Next time use Simple Green solution instead of paint thinner. Simple Green doesn't remove paint and chrome and is all natural so it isn't hazardous to your health. Use lithium based grease on bike parts as it will not gunk up and dry in the heat like the black tarry automotive stuff. My credentials: 6+ years working on bikes and Schwinn Le Tour rider.
Johnny Guzman which grease do u use
Lol
Awesome video, but im concerned that your not useing gloves when dipping your hand into paint thinner!! Paint thinner is extremely damaging to your skin, if you are going to make instruction videos, teach safety along with your craft! Credetials? I am a histotech who works for a dermatopathologist. Keep making awesome videos bike guy!
+Vincent Guerra Most paint thinners are mineral spirits, similar to kerosene. It's not great for your skin, but it's no methylene chloride or anything.
Can't get the stem out of my Peugeot U08 😥
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Notes to RJ The Bike Guy.
- Don't have the television on when you are doing instructional videos.
- Your dog is rather cute.
- This is otherwise a helpful video.
if i have a... air compressor is it a good idea to clean out anything left from degreasing the bearings?
+alexander neshev Go for it.