In my 40 years as a radio operator, I have had all sorts of problems with coax connections. I have resorted in buying coax with connectors, which are never the right length. A 3 foot jumper often costs as much as $10.00. I have felt that I am not a true ham because I could not get the connectors on without some type of failure. Your presentation gives me hope but not yet confidence. This is the best presentation that I have seen. Thank you so very much.
FINALLY...Someone that can make a normal ham related video without making stupid jokes, repeating things 50 times, and going on and on about absolutely nothing! Thank you!
Yes, but not an enormous fan of the out-of-place, excessively lengthy motor sounds as an intro, though. I hear enough motorcycles outside my window. ;)
@@theradiomechanic9625 I agree with Sir Todd. Being a "New Player", it's nice to see a no-nonsense video showing best practices learned from experience - luckily, I have a "beast" soldering iron (the late 50s) that my dad left me... Thanks, Radio Mechanic! Now I can finish my G5RV antenna project! 73!
Thank you for sharing this technique I really like that when you dip the bread in the solder gave it a solid connection where the braid doesn't Fray all over the place when you're putting a pl259 on thanks again this was a great asset goodbye from Atlanta Georgia
Hi ... I've viewed a bunch of videos today on how to properly install a PL259 on a piece of coax ... this is by far, the best one yet. Thank you for showing you how to do it with finesse! 73, Neil, K7WK
Follow up on my comment. Doing the "tinning" with a soldiering iron is a terrible mess and I can see why you use the special setup to do it. I'm a noob and never made these connectors myself and I recommend to noobs on there to simply trim off the braid unless you have this pool of solder to soak it. I ruined my first connector not because of the video but because i'm a noob to soldering and caused a huge mess that I couldnt clean up. When I took a second attempt I simply trimmed the braid with some scissors and it was much easier then I thought because of the mess I made with the braid was avoided. A buddy referred me to this video and it helped me finally get these connectors right even though I'm still terrible at soldiering and need more practice. th-cam.com/video/Cvn3_7SL36k/w-d-xo.html
Never have been threatened by a you tuber sending a dog over too bite me. So I figured I better subscribe. For decades I struggled with the shielding braid. Never ever thought of soldering the braiding itself! TY Sir. You now have a fan...
Great video, thanks for sharing. I too learned by trial and error the benefits of tinning the braid. Though, alas, no solder pot for me. Only thing I can add that might help when applying a lot of heat to solder connectors like this is to wrap a wet rag around the jacket - just next to the connector (e.g. where it is held in vice). This acts as a heatsink and helps to stop jacket and insulator melting.
Trying to watch a few films on the pl259 as a refresher course. None of them made me feel comfortable in fact one video was labeled rg8 and he was clearly working with RG58. I have soldered a few over the years I didn't do too bad but you have great tips and now I feel smarter about replacing one of my connectors. Boy I subscribe for sure. Hope to watch more of your videos . Right now I have to solder a pl259 LOL I also have some old-time tube am radios including zenith Lafayette and an amazing stewart-warner AM radio. I sold my Grundig Majestic a few years ago but it was a console I don't have room for. Can't wait to watch your vids on the tube radios
Very good technique, you actually managed to explain in a way even I understood ... Well ,,, now I'll be taking my antenna pole back down and redoing the PL-259 connectors 🤪.. great job , I appreciate it . 73's to you
23:30 Tip: Long before soldering the tip of the center conductor, it is wise to tin the center conductor at the same time you tin the braid. After tinning, if the center conductor is too big to fit through the connector hole, you can file down the solder you added around the wire, and round off the end of its tip. Tinning this center conductor makes soldering its end to the PL-259 tip much easier, and it solders up faster and more uniformly. Always use a file on anything you tin if you need to reduce it's size so it will fit into the holes of the connector. Filing still leaves enough solder on the braid or center conductor which helps the entire soldering process go smoothly.
The "shear" cutters (multi-sized teeth) look great, have not seen these before, I don't think that they are available in the UK. Great video, glad I worked out the same method a few years ago except I don't have solder bath (brilliant idea) I find modern "MilSpec" RG-213 white insulation is much, much more sensitive to soldering iron heat than the stuff I used in ham and marine radio back in the 60s and 70s. Thanks again for a great video 73 G3Z..
Great video, clearly demonstrating best practices and useful tools and jigs, such as the various vice jaw attachments and that excellent solder pot! Maybe I missed it, or you comment in a different video, but it could be useful to comment on the solder you usually buy and use, alloy, gauge, roll size and flux.. With then advent of RoHS and other non-tin-lead alloys, some with flux cores and some without, it may not be obvious to newcomers to the craft which to use where.
Good video. I have done hundreds of PL259's over the years, but only with RG213 and RG8. The 'screw-on' N's are a good idea, but I would still use the old-time dozens-of-parts connectors for UHF. They may take longer, but they are less lossy.
Your Welcome, and thanks for watching. Once you know the tricks this is great cable. Have 9 runs of this cable, 6 on my tower and three others. Love the stuff.
Worked perfect. When the radio was installed by the dealer the center wire was just loose in the pin. When I took it off to check something and then put it back in the radio didn't work at all. I tried to install it without solder as they had done and it didn't work. I half expected that it wouldn't, but since it was good enough for the dealer I thought they might know something that I didn't. Anyhow followed your instructions and it works perfectly. Thanks.
Great idea re. tinning the braid! That has been my biggest issue with assembling cables, the braid makes a mess when I trim it and often it gets pushed back when I twist the connector onto the cable. I am definitely making use of this!
Tip: At every step along the way after cutting into the cable, it is helpful to test the cable continuity using a V.O.M. meter or other device to check for any short circuit. Even if your soldering skills are good, there is always a possibility that cable fray, center conductor stray strand, or bump shorting inside the connector can take place. So continue to test continuity between both ends of the cable during the connector process. This way, once you are completely soldered on both ends, there will be no short circuiting.
I've always used genuine Amphenol connectors with bakelite insulation forever with no issues. Teflon is not near as durable and replace them for friends when needed. Thanks for your time.
20:08 When you stick the iron into the hole and add solder, it helps to twist or turn the iron back and forth in the hole. Once you hear a squeaking sound, you know both braid and connector have joined solders together well, so remove the iron.
For most, crimp shield and solder pin, are the best connection and MUCH faster. Not to mention the new coax center material is very unforgiving from heat. UHF is a misnomer. When these connectors were first used, 30MHZ was "UHF"! Nice job on the video....
Good video. I wish I could do this as quickly as you do. It usually takes me about an hour per connector. I've discovered that going slow is the quickest way to do it right.
Love the solder pot. Just a quick thought, wouldn't it be a good idea once you tin the braid to go ahead and tin the inner conductor too before you screw the connector on to make the soldering quicker for that as well?
Super video, brother!! Very informative!! Great for the newbies and the oldies too!! I just found your channel and subscribed!! I look forward to checking out your channel & vids. Thanks very much for informing us. PS: I also have a beast of a soldering iron (from the 60's!) that was left to me and has NEVER let me down!! Your new subscriber, Norman in Montreal, Canada.
Tips: When using any soldering gun, make sure the tip prongs are snugly screwed into the two prongs of the gun. These connections oxidize and the heat loosens them, so before using the gun tighten them so the tip gets full heat. Repeat several times during multiple soldering jobs. 2. The gun's tip has to be cleaned every time you trigger the heat. So trigger the heat, then take a fist-sized wad of steel wool and rub the hot tip through it on the end and sides of the tip to clean it. Then apply solder to the tip (called "tinning") before applying the tip to your project. Once the hot tinned tip is laid on the project, start to apply more solder to the tip and project and once it freezes or melts , remove the tip and blow on your project to cool it so heat doesn't transfer to unwanted parts of the project.
I also take a small file and rough up the surface around the holes on the PL259, since the plating doesn't usually allow the solder to stick. Especially on cheaper connectors.
Sound advice, I agree. Learned this the hard way. In fact, I normally try to use a small file, sandpaper or a fibre brush to remove any coating on any connector before I solder or tin it. Makes a big difference.
I generally put the pl259 in my drill press and drill out the 4 holes slightly for the braid before I tin them as you do. This makes using the larger iron or big Weller easier and quicker for me.
Good video, I soldered a lot of these back in my youth. However I was waiting for the soldering of a center tip of a N connector, close but no cigar. I noticed it has no hole on the video. how do you solder that type please ?
To avoid melting the outer jacket when soldering, I take a strip of absorbent cloth, dip it in water and wrap it around the shell of the connector to absorb the heat before it can reach the jacket. A strip of wet paper towel works also.
I'm going to have to do coax like this from now on... Using the manufacturer instructions I'm getting better signal with a scanner antenna indoors than my outdoor antenna
I didn't have similar equipment to tin the jacket, but a plan B for me, to prevent the shards issue, was to wrap some electrical tape over the end portion of the jacket before removing down to the center conductor.
Nice job! Another example very simplicity is the best way. I just subscribed on your channel, not because the dog ( I am a cat lover). Stay well. 73 from Bosnia and Hercegovina from E74D.
Hello nnadzak, Thanks for the kind comments. I will forgive you for being a cat lover. Have quite a few Bosnia and Hercegovina contacts in the log book. Always nice to meet someone from there. 73 Vern N1CKX
21:03 Tip....After you solder one braid hole, you can let it cool, then solder the opposite side hole, just as you would when tightening lug nuts in a star pattern for changing a flat tire. This allows the heat to work for you and not build up to a point that would short the connectors or melt the dielectric.
Hi Vikrant, the thread serves two purposes. With the RG8 style coax ( large diameter ) they thread onto the insulation. With the RG58 or 59 type coax there are different size adaptors that thread into them. Thanks for watching and good luck with the soldering.
Thanks for making a great video for those of us who don't do this all the time. Great tips and tricks! Well done! Can you tell us what type of solder you are using? Lead/Tin?? Non-lead?? THANKS
You found the secret of putting on these connectors: tin the braid first. I've done many that way, but I prefer the type of connectors you hate, so you can send your spares to me. :)
For anyone reading through the comments right now, I’ve found it takes almost all the skill away from soldering when you use a good quality iron, flux, and solder. I personally use kester solder and amtech NC-559-V2-TF flux. As for a great “do most” soldering station, I always use a Hakko FX-888D. It’s great for tiny board work up to medium size things like coax or power cables. Anything bigger and you’re better off getting a higher wattage iron. Good luck and don’t think too hard about things like I sometimes do.
Hi Bud, I think having the right tools for the job is critical, if I had some of what you have years ago, then I would have had better connections for my CB when I had one back then. I had to make do unfortunately. Just a query, do you have a video on building your Solder Pot? Cheers for the tips in this video :-)
Hi, and thank you for watching. This is a Drake Electric (not electronic) works model 600-10 and is rated 100 watts. Manufactured circa 1944/1946. Asbestos cord and all. I even have the original stand/rest for it. There is an exact one for sale in the original box on flea bay as of July 2023. The real secret to its success is the mass. Gives it tons of heat reserve.
I usually don't solder the four holes on the shell, I prefer to leave coaxial some space to "breath" due to temperature changes, ... and of course allways try to keep the connector protected with thermofit. I had once a bad experience with belden 9913 and connector solded on four holes... moisture entered thru the plastic and simply could not escape, oxidizing the center the whole 33ft...
What do you do about tinning the braided wire if you don't have an induction heater or one of the big soldering irons? Will a regular Weller soldering gun or iron generate enough heat to tin the braid?
HI Gene, I used to use a 40 watt iron that had a "Screwdriver" type tip about 6mm / 1/4 inch wide tip. Very time consuming compared to a solder pot. Standard solder pots are often found at flea markets fairly cheap. ( 20 bucks or so ) But take about 15 to 20 minutes to heat up, and leave a very hot pot sitting on the table for about 30 minutes after you shut down. They work but have a 15 second warm up time makes this thing pretty useful. Thanks for watching. Vern
I prefer silver plated amphenol. Yes, they cost more. Nickel plated I will use in a pinch when/if I don't have silver plated. Prior to soldering I use a drill bit or reamer to remove the nickel plating from the holes to reveal the brass to aid the solder to flow quicker to adhere to the solder braid. I like the on camera "oops" and the end isn't always the end with vid's. You've mentioned that you don't like getting side tracked with your explanations, but the little side stories are what makes your vid's more meaningful. Maybe that's just my preference. 73
Had one guy tell me I talked too much and was a bore. Can't please everyone I guess. I have no problem buying the good ones. HRO only carries these and I needed some "today". Thanks for watching Terry.
17:53 Putting the outer screw sleeves on the coax....This should be STEP #1 !! Just simply slide the connector sleeves back to back onto the cable first, and you will not forget later, because it is easy to get totally caught up in the measuring, cutting, tinning, and soldering process and not realize that you forgot to slide the sleeves on. Hams have to learn this hard lesson about 4 or 5 times before they remember to slide the sleeves on first before doing anything else !!!
Make sure your sleeves are on your coax before soldering. You don't actually THINK I have forgotten to slide the sleeve on before I soldered the connector, do you? Not me! Never! 😉☺️
No, never forgotten to put the outer sleeve on first. I mean, only an idiot would forget. Even if, just hypothetically you understand, I did forget. I would of course learn, after the first time, never ever to do it again. Wouldn't I?
hey great video, tinning the braid is a great idea! I put ends on a cable for my grandpa and the book said to fray the braid backwards, I thought that was a bit odd but I guess that was because of the cable he was using? the connector type seems very similar to the ones you used just for much smaller cable, it looks like what RG6? so 6mm outer? what do you think of bringing the outer braid back?
The "fold back" or "Fray Back" is normal for the smaller 5 and 6 mm diameter cables. There is an adaptor that threads into the PL-259 or N connector that the braid folds over. With care the loose ends are well back from the insulator and don't present a problem for shorts. On the RG-8 type coaxes ( 10.25/10.5mm ) the coax fills the body of the connector and the braid runs right up to the insulator. I seldom use the smaller coax except for instrument jumpers. Thanks for watching and the interesting question.
ah, ok, it just seems odd that the two sizes would have two methods, so another question I have is about the tip. my grandpa had bought a pre-terminated cable and I was making a short extension lead for him and when I was done I compared the factory end to my end and noticed I didnt have a perfect round ball of solder it would wick in and would leave it jagged. would it be better if it were round for being easier to plug in? how could one make a round tip like the factory does? just keep adding solder?
Tipping the connector down and adding more solder might make a ball. I am sure the commercial ones are an automated process. Also, some of them are crimped internally and just have a round end. However I don't worry about the jagged edge ( I assume you mean the profile of the end of the pin ) This really doesn't hurt anything. Been making them for years with no issues. Great questions by the way. Thanks for watching.
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In my 40 years as a radio operator, I have had all sorts of problems with coax connections. I have resorted in buying coax with connectors, which are never the right length. A 3 foot jumper often costs as much as $10.00. I have felt that I am not a true ham because I could not get the connectors on without some type of failure. Your presentation gives me hope but not yet confidence. This is the best presentation that I have seen. Thank you so very much.
FINALLY...Someone that can make a normal ham related video without making stupid jokes, repeating things 50 times, and going on and on about absolutely nothing! Thank you!
Hi Todd, You made me chuckle. I totally get where your coming from. Thanks for watching.
Yes, but not an enormous fan of the out-of-place, excessively lengthy motor sounds as an intro, though. I hear enough motorcycles outside my window. ;)
@@theradiomechanic9625 I agree with Sir Todd. Being a "New Player", it's nice to see a no-nonsense video showing best practices learned from experience - luckily, I have a "beast" soldering iron (the late 50s) that my dad left me... Thanks, Radio Mechanic! Now I can finish my G5RV antenna project! 73!
Thank you for sharing this technique I really like that when you dip the bread in the solder gave it a solid connection where the braid doesn't Fray all over the place when you're putting a pl259 on thanks again this was a great asset goodbye from Atlanta Georgia
Dec 2022 - THANK YOU FROM MAINE307! U SAVED MY BACON ! Still 6 yrs + after you made this! Still helping us new guys!
Hi ... I've viewed a bunch of videos today on how to properly install a PL259 on a piece of coax ... this is by far, the best one yet. Thank you for showing you how to do it with finesse!
73, Neil, K7WK
Just getting back to ham radio after 20 years. Thanks for the great refresher on soldering connectors.
Your welcome Bruce. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the great video. Years later, still helpful and relevant. Thank you
Follow up on my comment. Doing the "tinning" with a soldiering iron is a terrible mess and I can see why you use the special setup to do it. I'm a noob and never made these connectors myself and I recommend to noobs on there to simply trim off the braid unless you have this pool of solder to soak it. I ruined my first connector not because of the video but because i'm a noob to soldering and caused a huge mess that I couldnt clean up. When I took a second attempt I simply trimmed the braid with some scissors and it was much easier then I thought because of the mess I made with the braid was avoided. A buddy referred me to this video and it helped me finally get these connectors right even though I'm still terrible at soldiering and need more practice. th-cam.com/video/Cvn3_7SL36k/w-d-xo.html
Never have been threatened by a you tuber sending a dog over too bite me. So I figured I better subscribe. For decades I struggled with the shielding braid. Never ever thought of soldering the braiding itself! TY Sir. You now have a fan...
Great video, thanks for sharing. I too learned by trial and error the benefits of tinning the braid. Though, alas, no solder pot for me. Only thing I can add that might help when applying a lot of heat to solder connectors like this is to wrap a wet rag around the jacket - just next to the connector (e.g. where it is held in vice). This acts as a heatsink and helps to stop jacket and insulator melting.
What can I say... Excellent edification. You area very good teacher. Thanks so much.
Thank you, very helpful video. I have not soldered in 43yrs. I Will have to practice!
WOW! WHat A Cool , Clear Instruction Video, Show And Tell is Just 10 Out Of 10 ! Thanks
Thanks for sharing this content. Much appreciated!
Trying to watch a few films on the pl259 as a refresher course. None of them made me feel comfortable in fact one video was labeled rg8 and he was clearly working with RG58. I have soldered a few over the years I didn't do too bad but you have great tips and now I feel smarter about replacing one of my connectors. Boy I subscribe for sure. Hope to watch more of your videos . Right now I have to solder a pl259 LOL
I also have some old-time tube am radios including zenith Lafayette and an amazing stewart-warner AM radio. I sold my Grundig Majestic a few years ago but it was a console I don't have room for. Can't wait to watch your vids on the tube radios
This is brilliant, just done one and thrilled with the results
Very good technique, you actually managed to explain in a way even I understood ... Well ,,, now I'll be taking my antenna pole back down and redoing the PL-259 connectors 🤪.. great job , I appreciate it . 73's to you
MR. YOU are the Best * , no half measures for you !!! , your a dying breed * someone who takes PRIDE in there work * !!!!!! :-) take note kids '
Informative and straight to the point. Thank you
RG400 or 393 is bulletproof compared to the 8x. NO BRAID ! You are a genius 👏
23:30 Tip: Long before soldering the tip of the center conductor, it is wise to tin the center conductor at the same time you tin the braid. After tinning, if the center conductor is too big to fit through the connector hole, you can file down the solder you added around the wire, and round off the end of its tip. Tinning this center conductor makes soldering its end to the PL-259 tip much easier, and it solders up faster and more uniformly. Always use a file on anything you tin if you need to reduce it's size so it will fit into the holes of the connector. Filing still leaves enough solder on the braid or center conductor which helps the entire soldering process go smoothly.
Exelent video!!! Exelent sound of your HONDA motorcycle,, the best sound in the world. Congrats for your JOB. 73 and dx.
Great video and good tips. Thanks so much for posting W3GTR
The "shear" cutters (multi-sized teeth) look great, have not seen these before, I don't think that they are available in the UK. Great video, glad I worked out the same method a few years ago except I don't have solder bath (brilliant idea) I find modern "MilSpec" RG-213 white insulation is much, much more sensitive to soldering iron heat than the stuff I used in ham and marine radio back in the 60s and 70s. Thanks again for a great video 73 G3Z..
Great video, clearly demonstrating best practices and useful tools and jigs, such as the various vice jaw attachments and that excellent solder pot! Maybe I missed it, or you comment in a different video, but it could be useful to comment on the solder you usually buy and use, alloy, gauge, roll size and flux.. With then advent of RoHS and other non-tin-lead alloys, some with flux cores and some without, it may not be obvious to newcomers to the craft which to use where.
Thank you.
Greetings from North Africa (Algeria)
Nicely done Vern, always a pleasure to watch your videos. Thanks for posting. Best 73 de Keith
HI Keith, thanks for the kind words. And thanks for watching.
Good video. I have done hundreds of PL259's over the years, but only with RG213 and RG8. The 'screw-on' N's are a good idea, but I would still use the old-time dozens-of-parts connectors for UHF. They may take longer, but they are less lossy.
Thanks for the video. Especially for using Belden 9913f. I was having the hardest time with this.
Your Welcome, and thanks for watching. Once you know the tricks this is great cable. Have 9 runs of this cable, 6 on my tower and three others. Love the stuff.
Excellent tutorial, thank you!
Worked perfect. When the radio was installed by the dealer the center wire was just loose in the pin. When I took it off to check something and then put it back in the radio didn't work at all. I tried to install it without solder as they had done and it didn't work. I half expected that it wouldn't, but since it was good enough for the dealer I thought they might know something that I didn't. Anyhow followed your instructions and it works perfectly. Thanks.
Nice how to video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. 👏🏻
Very cool, I solder PL259's about the same way you do. Great video.
Best way I have found. Avoids any shorts. Thanks for watching.
you taught an old dog some new tricks! thank you sir!
This is an excellent video; thank you.
This Connector Will Hold Forever !
Great idea re. tinning the braid! That has been my biggest issue with assembling cables, the braid makes a mess when I trim it and often it gets pushed back when I twist the connector onto the cable. I am definitely making use of this!
Tip: At every step along the way after cutting into the cable, it is helpful to test the cable continuity using a V.O.M. meter or other device to check for any short circuit. Even if your soldering skills are good, there is always a possibility that cable fray, center conductor stray strand, or bump shorting inside the connector can take place. So continue to test continuity between both ends of the cable during the connector process. This way, once you are completely soldered on both ends, there will be no short circuiting.
Excellent video Sir and thanks for posting. I have to make 12 cables for a new vhf/uhf QTH . Love to see a video on how to build the solder pot.
I've always used genuine Amphenol connectors with bakelite insulation forever with no issues. Teflon is not near as durable and replace them for friends when needed.
Thanks for your time.
Excellent video!
Wow I have never seen it done like that before, I am going to try that method next time I make a cable up, thanks for sharing
That was a great job I learned a lot thank you for the video
Excellent. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Your welcome George, and thanks for watching.
20:08 When you stick the iron into the hole and add solder, it helps to twist or turn the iron back and forth in the hole. Once you hear a squeaking sound, you know both braid and connector have joined solders together well, so remove the iron.
Great video! Thanks! Like the tips for new folks.
Thanks Uriah, I try to pass on the tricks.
For most, crimp shield and solder pin, are the best connection and MUCH faster. Not to mention the new coax center material is very unforgiving from heat. UHF is a misnomer. When these connectors were first used, 30MHZ was "UHF"! Nice job on the video....
Good video. I wish I could do this as quickly as you do. It usually takes me about an hour per connector. I've discovered that going slow is the quickest way to do it right.
Speed comes with practice/experience. Used to take me forever to get them right.
Love the solder pot. Just a quick thought, wouldn't it be a good idea once you tin the braid to go ahead and tin the inner conductor too before you screw the connector on to make the soldering quicker for that as well?
Super video, brother!! Very
informative!! Great for the newbies
and the oldies too!! I just found
your channel and subscribed!!
I look forward to checking out
your channel & vids. Thanks very
much for informing us.
PS: I also have a beast of a
soldering iron (from the 60's!)
that was left to me and has
NEVER let me down!!
Your new subscriber,
Norman in Montreal, Canada.
Thank you Nor man. Appreciate the support.
Very slick wetting the shield first been doing it wrong for years!
Works like a charm....thanks for watching.
Tips: When using any soldering gun, make sure the tip prongs are snugly screwed into the two prongs of the gun. These connections oxidize and the heat loosens them, so before using the gun tighten them so the tip gets full heat. Repeat several times during multiple soldering jobs. 2. The gun's tip has to be cleaned every time you trigger the heat. So trigger the heat, then take a fist-sized wad of steel wool and rub the hot tip through it on the end and sides of the tip to clean it. Then apply solder to the tip (called "tinning") before applying the tip to your project. Once the hot tinned tip is laid on the project, start to apply more solder to the tip and project and once it freezes or melts , remove the tip and blow on your project to cool it so heat doesn't transfer to unwanted parts of the project.
Great video - thanks!
great video was very helpful thanks for posting cheers Andy
Hi Andy, Your welcome, thanks for watching.
thank you very helpful. new at soldering..
Wish I would have known this back in the late 70's when I was driving Semi.
Nicely presented...Good...
Great video, never have been good at these but I am sure that my next one will be a lot better, thank you!
Your welcome Dave.
Love the intro :)
Bellissimo lavoro complimenti
P
I also take a small file and rough up the surface around the holes on the PL259, since the plating doesn't usually allow the solder to stick. Especially on cheaper connectors.
Sound advice, I agree. Learned this the hard way. In fact, I normally try to use a small file, sandpaper or a fibre brush to remove any coating on any connector before I solder or tin it. Makes a big difference.
@@Steve-GM0HUU I've been tinning the braid on the connectors that I've soldered since I saw your video. It works great.
I generally put the pl259 in my drill press and drill out the 4 holes slightly for the braid before I tin them as you do. This makes using the larger iron or big Weller easier and quicker for me.
Excellent!!
Good video, I soldered a lot of these back in my youth. However I was waiting for the soldering of a center tip of a N connector, close but no cigar. I noticed it has no hole on the video. how do you solder that type please ?
To avoid melting the outer jacket when soldering, I take a strip of absorbent cloth, dip it in water and wrap it around the shell of the connector to absorb the heat before it can reach the jacket. A strip of wet paper towel works also.
Great video
I'm going to have to do coax like this from now on... Using the manufacturer instructions I'm getting better signal with a scanner antenna indoors than my outdoor antenna
I didn't have similar equipment to tin the jacket, but a plan B for me, to prevent the shards issue, was to wrap some electrical tape over the end portion of the jacket before removing down to the center conductor.
Thanks, nice job.
Max Gain Systems makes the best PL-259's...They can take the heat!
Nice job! Another example very simplicity is the best way. I just subscribed on your channel, not because the dog ( I am a cat lover). Stay well. 73 from Bosnia and Hercegovina from E74D.
Hello nnadzak, Thanks for the kind comments. I will forgive you for being a cat lover. Have quite a few Bosnia and Hercegovina contacts in the log book. Always nice to meet someone from there. 73 Vern N1CKX
What was that ignition transformer doing on your bench?
Do you have plans for making the solder pot you used?
21:03 Tip....After you solder one braid hole, you can let it cool, then solder the opposite side hole, just as you would when tightening lug nuts in a star pattern for changing a flat tire. This allows the heat to work for you and not build up to a point that would short the connectors or melt the dielectric.
Yes blowin on tin..
MAKE IT crack
Bro take a ISO 9001 9002
Do not chill tin !! IT Will make
Microscopic cracks
Mind blowingly good
Thank you. And thanks for watching.
nice intelligent videos sir,keep up the good work sir!
Thanks for watching....
Thanks for the elaborate procedure. I just got my PL 259s and was wondering what the thread was for.
Hi Vikrant, the thread serves two purposes. With the RG8 style coax ( large diameter ) they thread onto the insulation. With the RG58 or 59 type coax there are different size adaptors that thread into them. Thanks for watching and good luck with the soldering.
Do you have any recommendations or videos on soldering the PL-259 with the adapter for the smaller coax? Thanks. 73
Thanks for making a great video for those of us who don't do this all the time. Great tips and tricks! Well done!
Can you tell us what type of solder you are using? Lead/Tin?? Non-lead?? THANKS
You found the secret of putting on these connectors: tin the braid first. I've done many that way, but I prefer the type of connectors you hate, so you can send your spares to me. :)
Good to use a continuity meter between the shield and pin to make sure there's no short (for newbies).
Thank you sir.
very helpful thanks
Great job, grettings from xe2ywi!
For anyone reading through the comments right now, I’ve found it takes almost all the skill away from soldering when you use a good quality iron, flux, and solder. I personally use kester solder and amtech NC-559-V2-TF flux. As for a great “do most” soldering station, I always use a Hakko FX-888D. It’s great for tiny board work up to medium size things like coax or power cables. Anything bigger and you’re better off getting a higher wattage iron. Good luck and don’t think too hard about things like I sometimes do.
"Leftover connector" he said?
I think he meant to say," Connector with previous experience." :-)
Very good thank you for your demo. Very good demonstration-very helpful! 73 KC9UNV.
John, your welcome. And thank you for watching.
Hi Bud, I think having the right tools for the job is critical, if I had some of what you have years ago, then I would have had better connections for my CB when I had one back then. I had to make do unfortunately. Just a query, do you have a video on building your Solder Pot? Cheers for the tips in this video :-)
Great tecnic!
What is the name of the soldering pot? Recommend brand?
Thank you!
Very good video. Thanks. P.S. How big is your dog?
Nice video! Curious what the wattage is of that beast iron used towards the end? Amazing how quickly that was heating.
Hi, and thank you for watching. This is a Drake Electric (not electronic) works model 600-10 and is rated 100 watts. Manufactured circa 1944/1946. Asbestos cord and all. I even have the original stand/rest for it. There is an exact one for sale in the original box on flea bay as of July 2023. The real secret to its success is the mass. Gives it tons of heat reserve.
what is the name of the 2 piece connectors? i am having trouble finding them. thankks!
I usually don't solder the four holes on the shell, I prefer to leave coaxial some space to "breath" due to temperature changes, ... and of course allways try to keep the connector protected with thermofit. I had once a bad experience with belden 9913 and connector solded on four holes... moisture entered thru the plastic and simply could not escape, oxidizing the center the whole 33ft...
Great video. Thanks.
BTW, what was that annoying farting noise in the beginning?
What do you do about tinning the braided wire if you don't have an induction heater or one of the big soldering irons? Will a regular Weller soldering gun or iron generate enough heat to tin the braid?
HI Gene, I used to use a 40 watt iron that had a "Screwdriver" type tip about 6mm / 1/4 inch wide tip. Very time consuming compared to a solder pot. Standard solder pots are often found at flea markets fairly cheap. ( 20 bucks or so ) But take about 15 to 20 minutes to heat up, and leave a very hot pot sitting on the table for about 30 minutes after you shut down. They work but have a 15 second warm up time makes this thing pretty useful. Thanks for watching. Vern
I prefer silver plated amphenol. Yes, they cost more. Nickel plated I will use in a pinch when/if I don't have silver plated. Prior to soldering I use a drill bit or reamer to remove the nickel plating from the holes to reveal the brass to aid the solder to flow quicker to adhere to the solder braid. I like the on camera "oops" and the end isn't always the end with vid's. You've mentioned that you don't like getting side tracked with your explanations, but the little side stories are what makes your vid's more meaningful. Maybe that's just my preference. 73
Had one guy tell me I talked too much and was a bore. Can't please everyone I guess. I have no problem buying the good ones.
HRO only carries these and I needed some "today". Thanks for watching Terry.
17:53 Putting the outer screw sleeves on the coax....This should be STEP #1 !! Just simply slide the connector sleeves back to back onto the cable first, and you will not forget later, because it is easy to get totally caught up in the measuring, cutting, tinning, and soldering process and not realize that you forgot to slide the sleeves on. Hams have to learn this hard lesson about 4 or 5 times before they remember to slide the sleeves on first before doing anything else !!!
WONDERFULL THANK YOU SO MUCH
You're welcome. Thank you for watching.
Make sure your sleeves are on your coax before soldering. You don't actually THINK I have forgotten to slide the sleeve on before I soldered the connector, do you? Not me! Never! 😉☺️
Oh, and BTW. Great video. Wetting the braid in the solder pot is a great idea!
LOL Me neither, never ever. Not that I will admit. :-) Thanks for watching.
Thanks Fireship.
it falls in the same class of making the perfect solder connection and realizing your heat shrink is still laying on the bench and not on the wire ;)
No, never forgotten to put the outer sleeve on first. I mean, only an idiot would forget. Even if, just hypothetically you understand, I did forget. I would of course learn, after the first time, never ever to do it again. Wouldn't I?
hey great video, tinning the braid is a great idea! I put ends on a cable for my grandpa and the book said to fray the braid backwards, I thought that was a bit odd but I guess that was because of the cable he was using? the connector type seems very similar to the ones you used just for much smaller cable, it looks like what RG6? so 6mm outer? what do you think of bringing the outer braid back?
The "fold back" or "Fray Back" is normal for the smaller 5 and 6 mm diameter cables. There is an adaptor that threads into the PL-259 or N connector that the braid folds over. With care the loose ends are well back from the insulator and don't present a problem for shorts. On the RG-8 type coaxes ( 10.25/10.5mm ) the coax fills the body of the connector and the braid runs right up to the insulator. I seldom use the smaller coax except for instrument jumpers. Thanks for watching and the interesting question.
ah, ok, it just seems odd that the two sizes would have two methods, so another question I have is about the tip. my grandpa had bought a pre-terminated cable and I was making a short extension lead for him and when I was done I compared the factory end to my end and noticed I didnt have a perfect round ball of solder it would wick in and would leave it jagged. would it be better if it were round for being easier to plug in? how could one make a round tip like the factory does? just keep adding solder?
Tipping the connector down and adding more solder might make a ball. I am sure the commercial ones are an automated process. Also, some of them are crimped internally and just have a round end. However I don't worry about the jagged edge ( I assume you mean the profile of the end of the pin ) This really doesn't hurt anything. Been making them for years with no issues.
Great questions by the way. Thanks for watching.
Perfect