Thank you, thank you, thank you! You saved me a lot of time. While replacing my pool pump motor, I found that the wires inside the box had broken off their terminals. Thank you for verifying the correct wiring.
Very helpful thx I switched from 220 to 110 .now I got rid of this timer thinking oh it old style .but listen to you makes sense it last for a good 20 years .go tip.
This video is one of the most useful about timers so far. Thanks, HandyDadTV. For me resolve an important question about timers for 125 V and 240 volts. Explain clearly the 220v for timers T101 type and 240v for timers T104.
Best guidance I've seen yet on these timers. I've installed two intermatic T-103"s and both, the gears in the motor are not moving, wondering if I'm doing something wrong. I took photos of the wired previous timer and wired the new one accordingly
@handydadtv I figured out what I was doing wrong. I was trying to install a T103 on a 220V pump Thanks to your guidance , understanding how to identify a 220V on your electrical box. I realized I needed a T104, replaced it and it works great!
I have T101 timer (120V) for a sign light. The clock doesn’t run when I make the manual lever in OFF position, but it runs when the manual lever in ON position. Do you think I fixed the Line and Load wires 1:09 wrong? I fixed the white wire in terminal A, the red in 1, and black wire in 2. Thank you
Thanks for your video. It was very helpful. My problem is I have 3 red wires (2 coming from pool pump, 1 from circuit box) and I have a white wire coming from circuit. Where do I hook them? I forgot to take a picture prior to disconnecting the wires from the old T104r pool timer.
i have an electric heater and pool pump 2 separate devices can i just double up on the load side.to ensure that no one can turn on the heater unless the pump is running
I really like the labels on your breaker, could you please tell me how you have that as oppose to labeling on the right side which tends to fade the writing over time
I only have one wire and a ground coming into the box from the panel and one wire and a ground going out of the panel to the pump. Yours had two out of each. Would I just connect it the same way with one wire each?
Get a voltage tester to be sure, but you probably have a 120-volt pump. Get a timer to match your voltage. You must have an old pool because that’s certainly not up to code. Odds are, they’re using the ground as a neutral. You’re not allowed to use ground as a conductor. It’s not safe. Consider redoing that.
I just purchased the T104R Timer for my pool pump. I also have a salt water pool. The saltinator has a seperate power source by the pump. Can I run both off the 1 timer? If so how would I then connect the lines or should I run each off a seprerate timer?
I’m unfamiliar with salt generators but I thought they already have sensors that prevent them from running if the pump is off because it will damage the unit. So you shouldn’t need to put it on a timer.
The mechanical timer you have seems pretty quiet? My timer is connected to my house and it’s right underneath a window. My old timer is very noisy and so annoying. I would like to know, I guess, how far away is that timer audible?
Also I Don't have 2 black lines running from Panel or 2 Red from the Pump. But I have 4 line running from both. So the way you explained it sound great except my colors aren't matching your video. I have a Black , Red , White and Green, understanding the green is the ground. Trying to understand what to do with each wire and how to connect to the box.
Hopefully you took a picture of the old timer’s wiring. When replacing, always use the same wires by default. Verify that you have a double breaker, then use a voltage meter to see if you have 220-240 volts across the black and red line from the panel. If so, use a 240v timer wired just like mine (except the colors), connect the grounds together on the case, and connect the whites together with a wire nut.
No, you would never save enough on electricity to offset the $1500+ that a VSR pump costs. Only replace a failed pump or as in my case when the old pumps bearings get overwhelmingly loud.
In warm climates where pools are open year-round, variable speed pumps provide great value. But in northern climates, like us in NJ, who only run their pumps for 3-4 months, it takes 3x as long to break even. Plus variable speed pumps are more complex devices with a lot of electronics and a higher failure rate. It’s a personal decision. But these are the reasons we still use a single speed pump.
@@robertjoseph1592 I picked up my pentair superflo VS for 600 five years ago which was a steal but I see them in that range now especially those black and decker ones. Mine paid for itself the first full season.
I need to add a box, I need two. A dumb fake pool guy removed one timer and removed two valves. Now everything runs at the same time and I’ve had two DE filters explode. Are there any qualified contractors out there?
Very well understood instructions. 99% of other "how to" videos just assume the watcher knows all electrical terminology. Thanks again.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
You made this so easy. Saved me a couple hundred having this installed. Just take the time to do it right and do it yourself. Thank you brother!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Beautiful how to video straight to the point not dragged out for 25 min understandable easy to comprehend nice work
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thank you, thank you, thank you! You saved me a lot of time.
While replacing my pool pump motor, I found that the wires inside the box had broken off their terminals. Thank you for verifying the correct wiring.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Very informative video. Thank you for the knowledge!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Very helpful thx I switched from 220 to 110 .now I got rid of this timer thinking oh it old style .but listen to you makes sense it last for a good 20 years .go tip.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Great video. Spot on for all points. I would probably do a plastic enclosure over metal but other than that, agree 100%!
Metal rusts. Plastic gets brittle. Either way, they don’t last forever.
Thanks for the video. The documentation that comes with the units are the clearest when it comes to wiring, but this was very helpful.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Excellent tutorial. Your the only one that explained the position of the manual override switch for normal operation
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
This video is one of the most useful about timers so far. Thanks, HandyDadTV. For me resolve an important question about timers for 125 V and 240 volts. Explain clearly the 220v for timers T101 type and 240v for timers T104.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Watched several videos on this topic. This was the best one by far. Thank you.
Thanks 😊
Well done and relaxed. Always take your time and make it right. Many things can be tackled and many shouldn't.
Thanks 😊
I have a house at the coast, I paint everything with marine enamel to stop rust. Nice video.
Thanks 👍🏻
Great video! Super clear and informative. Thank you.
🍃👌🏽🍃
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Best guidance I've seen yet on these timers. I've installed two intermatic T-103"s and both, the gears in the motor are not moving, wondering if I'm doing something wrong. I took photos of the wired previous timer and wired the new one accordingly
My favorite
@handydadtv I figured out what I was doing wrong.
I was trying to install a T103 on a 220V pump
Thanks to your guidance , understanding how to identify a 220V on your electrical box. I realized I needed a T104, replaced it and it works great!
@007mcqueen5 Glad you figured it out 👍🏻
Great Video. Thank you for sharing.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thank you for a great video.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
I love you bro you really save my day
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
This was extremely helpful!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Very well done. Thankyou
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Excellent video, thank you.
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Excellent video 💯🔥🔥
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
I have T101 timer (120V) for a sign light. The clock doesn’t run when I make the manual lever in OFF position, but it runs when the manual lever in ON position. Do you think I fixed the Line and Load wires 1:09 wrong? I fixed the white wire in terminal A, the red in 1, and black wire in 2. Thank you
Sounds like you connected the timer to the LOAD instead of the LINE.
Thank you very much! I exchanged the red and black wire, and it works! I really appreciate your help!
My pleasure!
Wow thank you so much!!!!
My pleasure!
Thoughts on only replacing the timer motor in lieu of the whole timer mechanism as shown in this video ? Ty
Slightly less work to only change the mechanism. Marginal price difference. I’d only do that if the case is still in good condition.
Hello, can I add a 12v and 2 120v led light together into that same timer? Please let me know
I’m not sure if that’s code, but I wouldn’t do it either way. The lights should be controlled independently of the pump.
Made it easy thanks!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Thanks for your video. It was very helpful. My problem is I have 3 red wires (2 coming from pool pump, 1 from circuit box) and I have a white wire coming from circuit. Where do I hook them? I forgot to take a picture prior to disconnecting the wires from the old T104r pool timer.
Oh that’s unfortunate.
Can I use a T104 timer on a 120 single breaker Black White and Green wireing? Using Line one and Load one with Gre/? Thanks
No the timer motor won’t work. Get the 120V model.
i have an electric heater and pool pump 2 separate devices can i just double up on the load side.to ensure that no one can turn on the heater unless the pump is running
Yes as long as you don’t exceed the circuit capacity.
@handyman I was seeing ur vid on floor plank do u have to put spacers when u start do u know why they put them
Please ask the question on that video so I know the context. Just because I’ve done a few different floors.
@@handydadtv ok 👍
Will this box work on a 3hp pentair pool pump 240 v the old box fried from being on to long
Yes as long as it’s a single speed pump.
I really like the labels on your breaker, could you please tell me how you have that as oppose to labeling on the right side which tends to fade the writing over time
I used a label maker because it’s hard to read the electrician’s handwriting on the door.
I only have one wire and a ground coming into the box from the panel and one wire and a ground going out of the panel to the pump. Yours had two out of each. Would I just connect it the same way with one wire each?
Get a voltage tester to be sure, but you probably have a 120-volt pump. Get a timer to match your voltage.
You must have an old pool because that’s certainly not up to code. Odds are, they’re using the ground as a neutral. You’re not allowed to use ground as a conductor. It’s not safe. Consider redoing that.
I’ll do that. Thank you!
Thank you very much.
My pleasure!
I just purchased the T104R Timer for my pool pump. I also have a salt water pool. The saltinator has a seperate power source by the pump. Can I run both off the 1 timer? If so how would I then connect the lines or should I run each off a seprerate timer?
One line runs 240 and the other 120
I’m unfamiliar with salt generators but I thought they already have sensors that prevent them from running if the pump is off because it will damage the unit. So you shouldn’t need to put it on a timer.
Can you connect 2 equipment on this? i have a water pump and an air pump.
Sure
No ground fault breaker or ground fault in a disconnect at the pump?
No
The mechanical timer you have seems pretty quiet? My timer is connected to my house and it’s right underneath a window. My old timer is very noisy and so annoying. I would like to know, I guess, how far away is that timer audible?
Out in the open like this, you’d need to put your ear close to hear it. Being attached to your house, the vibrations resonate inside.
Also I Don't have 2 black lines running from Panel or 2 Red from the Pump. But I have 4 line running from both. So the way you explained it sound great except my colors aren't matching your video. I have a Black , Red , White and Green, understanding the green is the ground. Trying to understand what to do with each wire and how to connect to the box.
Hopefully you took a picture of the old timer’s wiring. When replacing, always use the same wires by default.
Verify that you have a double breaker, then use a voltage meter to see if you have 220-240 volts across the black and red line from the panel. If so, use a 240v timer wired just like mine (except the colors), connect the grounds together on the case, and connect the whites together with a wire nut.
Hello I replaced mine. But I don’t hear the timer ticking. It turns on/off manually but not at the she time. What can be the problem ?
Make sure you connected the timer wires to the LINE terminals.
With the energy rebates and savings should anyone not be replacing their pump with a variable speed?
No, you would never save enough on electricity to offset the $1500+ that a VSR pump costs. Only replace a failed pump or as in my case when the old pumps bearings get overwhelmingly loud.
My area doesn’t have rebates for pool pumps unfortunately.
In warm climates where pools are open year-round, variable speed pumps provide great value. But in northern climates, like us in NJ, who only run their pumps for 3-4 months, it takes 3x as long to break even.
Plus variable speed pumps are more complex devices with a lot of electronics and a higher failure rate.
It’s a personal decision. But these are the reasons we still use a single speed pump.
@@handydadtv I run mine mid April-September without a heater in Michigan so there’s definitely a personal decision factor.
@@robertjoseph1592 I picked up my pentair superflo VS for 600 five years ago which was a steal but I see them in that range now especially those black and decker ones. Mine paid for itself the first full season.
My pool pump wasn't running but timer was "on". When I tried to flip switch off, it sparked. Hoping replacing the timer solves issue.
Sadly, it doesn’t sound like a timer issue. Sounds more like the pump.
@@handydadtv Fortunately it was the timer and home Depot had it in stock
@eileenmaher1071 So glad I was wrong!
Green on Ground Screw
Thanks
I need to add a box, I need two. A dumb fake pool guy removed one timer and removed two valves. Now everything runs at the same time and I’ve had two DE filters explode. Are there any qualified contractors out there?
I would focus on the filter issue before the timer because I believe they are unrelated. I’d look for someone locally that knows what they’re doing.
That flex conduit looks awful
It was there and I wasn’t changing it.