FALLING with Heavily MODDED Revo (instant catch) | LEAD Rope SOLO free climbing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
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Before asking questions, please read my lead rope solo manual here:
My channel → About → My lead rope solo manual
If you want to discuss rope soloing please join the Facebook group "Lead Rope Solo Climbing", where you can find more decent information than on internet forums and TH-cam comments.
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What I call the "heavy mod": instant catch with some cons in giving slack: ideal for sloped slabs and top rope soloing (including downclimbing).
On the other side of the wheel I did a light mod ("standard"), so I can switch between the two depending on what I need.
2021/05/28, Italy, Trieste, "Costiera nuova"
00:14 Mod pictures
00:22 At home
01:49 Backup
01:56 Test falls
04:08 Abseiling with the Revo
04:53 Quick climbing demonstration
System:
Modded Wild Country Revo, Beal Stinger III 9.4 mm Unicore Dry Cover.
DMM Ceros.
Petzl Oxan Triact-Lock ANSI Z359.12 for the main anchor and the second bolt, 8 mm maillon for the backup anchor (knot against maillon).
3D printed Gromm Hitch to manage back-feed donated to me by Matty C Skinner.
Backup knots on the belay loop + stopper knots on the spare rope for the test falls, no backup for the climbing demonstration (5b route).
True resolution is 1080p: I rendered at 1440p to force TH-cam to use VP9 which is essential for videos with lot of movement; blame TH-cam.
Tags: falling, falls, fell, whipper, cadere, cadute, voli, mod, modding, modification, moddare, modifica, modificato, modificare, technical, tutorial, howto, rope solo, rope solo lead, lead solo, self-belaying, self belay, climbing alone, Karst, Karst edge, Karst coast, Karst Plateau, Karst region, Friuli Venezia Giulia, FVG, Trieste, Gorizia, Udine, crag, single pitch, sport route, arrampicata, arrampicata libera, autosicura, autoassicurazione, solitaria, Carso, Friuli, falesia, monotiro, via sportiva, Full HD, FHD, 1080p, 60 FPS, 60fps, 60p
Hi Andrea,
This is brillant!
Have you made a video on how to do the modification of the Revo? I know your manual but I don’t dare to do it yet. It would be great if you could do a video on it, it is just clearer I guess when you can see how it is done. Thx for all the videos and your manual! This is great work! Be safe! Ralf
Right now I actually suggest a normal mod (what I call the light mod). It catches quickly anyway and it feeds awesome, see more recent videos.
That said, I don't have a video about it, but it's not like it's meticulous specific steps to follow, you just have to grab the thing somehow and bend it multiple times by rotating the wheel while keeping hold of the spring end; everyone has its different tools to do it. Just know that until you manage rotate the wheel at least halfway, it won't do anything, so you shouldn't be afraid to pull hard. It's unlikely to bend it too much in one single push anyway.
@@AndreaCalligarisClimbing thx Andrea! Appreciate it!
That mod is really cool but you must have balls of steel to put your life on that catching
You must have balls of steel to:
- Trust another person to hold your life via a rope, especially considering that 90% of people don''t know how to belay.
- Trust that the rock is not going to break and that no rock falls on your head.
- Trust that while falling you don't hit the wall and break bones.
So, yeah, not much different than standard climbing.
@@AndreaCalligarisClimbing if you give your belayer that Revo unmodded you have exactly the same safety backups and issues as you have, except the Revo hasn't been cut up and pulled apart and you have a person on the end that can hold the rope if anything fails.
The mod makes the Revo safer because it catches early. The mechanism is safer than the GriGri because the GriGri relies on friction, while the Revo relies on the centrifugal force.
All my accidents have been in standard climbing and not while LRSing... but who knows, maybe I was lucky.
Hi Andrea,
In a couple of your Videos I’ve seen the backfeed stoppers you’re using. Is it possible to buy some of these?
Hope your arm is better!
Best,
Ralf
Hi, you have to contact Matty C Skinner on Facebook, from the Lead Rope Solo Climbing Facebook group.
hello, where did you get the black rubbers on the carabiners ? (quickdraws)
You can contact Matty C Skinner on Facebook or on the Facebook LRS group. See the video description.
Ciao, ti volevo mostrare un mio progetto ma mi serve postare una foto. Hai un account facebook? Grazie.
Bravo figata sto REVO
Ciao Andrea, ho appena provato a modificare il Revo,appena potrò farò dei test per vedere quanto veloce blocca.Grazie dei cosigli.
P.S.La falesia del video è ad Aurisina?
Costiera nuova.
Hola yo ando kon el revo y le cuesta frenar....Komo se puede modificar para ke frene antes?
@josecarlosdelgadomartinez596
th-cam.com/video/TXQgyUVqspc/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/x8Ki-HTHFNo/w-d-xo.html
I like you set up, but modified Revo sounds sketchy to me. How you did it?
My channel → About → My lead rope solo manual
After you understand how the mechanism and the mod work, you understand it's not sketchy at all.
Hi Andrea, have you noticed any internal wear or damage from falling?
Not personally. Yann Camus though experienced some wear on the edge that hits the shoe. Not that it wouldn't still work anyway.
Good to know, thanks Andrea. 🍺🍺It looks like it has held up really well to all your test falls. Myself I'm more worried about wear and durability because I'm 105kg in weight. That's considerably more body weight than the average climber. @@AndreaCalligarisClimbing
Good Beta as always. Keep it up!
How do you modify your Revo??
My channel → About → My lead rope solo manual / Website
There is also a video in this very channel.
The heavy mod looks pretty sweet! Think it's sensitive enough for slab climbing?
It is, my next video will be exactly that.
@@AndreaCalligarisClimbing rad. Excited to see it!
OMG i absoluteley love this.
Will you sell the mod or publish them in some way?
th-cam.com/video/x8Ki-HTHFNo/w-d-xo.html
@@AndreaCalligarisClimbing perfect 😘😘😘
Which would you say is better and safer for LRS, Revo or GriGri?
Subjective. The Revo allows you to discard the cache loop so it's super smooth, but it may shred the rope in a factor 2 fall; so when you risk to do a FF2 I would switch to the GriGri.
@@AndreaCalligarisClimbing more testing is required for the revo, I have seen bag drop tests which damaged the rope
Nah, just FF2.
@@AndreaCalligarisClimbing i just watched it again, severe damage to the revo was also a concern
@@chriswright7083 can you give a link?
Nice! Is this better than the unmodded version? And are you able to readjust back to its default setting?
If you see the first part of the video, at home, I would say it's certainly better.
No you're not able to, however the mod is on one side of the wheel only, the other one can be kept as it is.
@@AndreaCalligarisClimbing thanks man
@@AndreaCalligarisClimbing hey man, so I read your rope solo manual. May I know if your mod is light or heavy? And do you put color indicator of the side you modded?
I have the heavy mod on the green side (adhesive tape), and a light/standard/normal mod on the other side.
I suggest to start with the light mod.
@@AndreaCalligarisClimbing good to know! Just did a light mod on the side and it did catch faster than the other side. Do you think light mod is good enough for Slab climb?
That intro fall woke my whole body up