Makesupply Leather I do the gusset like you do the front , I get my first stitch down from the top and square across and mark with awl then go from one side to the other checking occasionally with the square. If you need to gain or loose you can push chisel to front or back of previous hole. Saves a little time but you still have to count. Lol
If you are going to hand stitch, start at the center mark of your leather piece and punch holes around your main pieces. Count the number of holes. Go to your gusset, start in the center and punch the same amount of holes. (Plus the add 1/8" or 1/4" what you left over at the top of your piece) do both sides and you will have the correct length. cut and sew. Using a machine. I use a flexible tape and measure all the way around the piece. The tricky part is around the corners. You need to roll the piece around the the tap, not the tap around the corner. Until you get this down, add a little extra. I don't do video's otherwise I would show you. (Just don't know how, maybe one day) Hope this makes sense, PM me if it doesn't.
Do your pricking irons have diagonal chisels? If so and you pre-punch your holes like that, don't the diagonal holes end up in opposite directions when you stitch the gusset to the front piece?
@@justinlehman7408 You just saved me from typing that :) I tried it years ago when I first started and soon realised the angles of the holes don't match up.
Justin, this is a game changer. I have wasted so much time with glue and binder clips, and made a huge mess doing so. This technique is much cleaner and professional looking. Great tutorial and I look forward to seeing more!
To avoid making bags and pouches propeller like, you need the absolute symmetry! Your method is ok, but not the easiest one. I do my gussets in this way: i use paper/cardboard patterns and just fold them by the vertical axis.Then start punching holes from folded side - from lower center of pattern. When you unfold pattern you'll have absolutely same number of holes on the both sides, with one in the center of pattern. Use this pattern to mark holes on the leather pieces, then punch it. Its easy. Then use the same pattern to make holes on the back side of the bag, but mark holes on the back side of leather (on the flesh side). In this way, both parts will have same holes in same places. After that, make a pattern for gusset - a long rectangle, and fold it on the long side axis. Than just count holes and make same amount of holes on the unfolded side of pattern. When you unfold pattern you'll have absolutely same number of holes on the both sides, again, and it will be symmetrical. Now you can start stitching from any end - result will be the same, without deformation or errors. Maybe, i should do a video with my method. I use it for years and it's worked every time.
It’s May 2023 and here I find one of the best pattern calculation on the internet. Thank you. That is not OCD! That is simply careful accurate working. So easy to do, but hard to do so well.
By Odins beard. I tried to wrap my head arount gussets for WEEKS. I am always worried about something not lining up and being crooked because of rounded edges and stuff. But this REALLY made my entire day. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
No problem! I make these kind of designs every day and STILL get the alignment/measurements/hole spacing wrong sometimes. Those round edges are cursed.
@@MAKESUPPLYLEATHER A mathematician once told me, that the basic problem is the change from straight to "raidal lines" or something like that. The beeline between two points on a curve is always shorter than the distance on a straight line. And those tiny "mistakes", which are a fraction of a milimeter, add up. And than it's getting crooked. I first encountered that problem when I sew a plague doctor's mask. The holes simply didn't want to align right. Because I wanted to use my chisels instead of punching each hole on the template... :D
@@kalamir93 and @MAKESUPPLYLEATHER I have faced this problem in my work. Imagine an athletics track at the Olympics. Those running along the outside lane seem to be running more than those running along the inside lane. In the rounded side gussets (round edges) of leather bags or others accessories we will always have this final imprecision depending on the thickness of the leathers used. Your technique is excellent for our learning, but it will never have 100% mathematical precision. So relax, because it's a handmade craft. Let's remember that nature is crooked but beautiful.
Thanks a million. I watched this video when I already have a cut medieval shoulder bag with a gusset sitting on the work bench. My only problem is how to stitch it. Because this is a thick 3mm leather, sewing it on my singer heavy duty machine is not an option. I am only starting to make more precise leather items thanks to Adobe illustrator. It is always worth investing in illustrator. I also got the illustrator workbook for reference purposes. This video is a life saver. Thanks for sharing the methods. Knowledge as they say is power.
Mind blown, thanks!!! I’ve been winging it with all of my gusset assemblies and rattled off more than a fair share of profanities because EVERY time the gusset has ended up skew. Can’t wait to get cracking with this! Thank you!
Thanks for posting Justin. Had to build one just to remind myself what a pain stitching gussets can be.. Regarding stitch holes, using my 4mm irons I counted 54 holes per side excluding center hole.
To do the gusset i start at mid point from the panel and punch the holes from center outward to the end i just do the same for the gusset and usually add 3 or 4 extra punching holes then trim as needed. The only thing is counting the holes as punching which is a must.
I like this method. The only thing i would do differently is, if the stitching area for the front panel and back panel are the same, i would lay it on top of each other and punch both pieces together. Thanks again for the method.
I've done this before and while it is quicker, I don't do so anymore because especially with thicker leather (anything over ~6oz) it's easy for the irons to go through at a slight angle and wind up with different edge spacing from front to back.
Excellent video, this is the most comprehensive video on this subject I've seen! This method would also work if you were to invert the bag so the seam was hidden on the inside, good work man
Hey Man, you make some really great stuff. I found this video very helpful for when I do gussets from now on. For you next tutorial video can you show me how to make a sunglass case. I'd really love to see how you would make one and please let me know when you do it. Great stuff man! - Gary
I can't wait for the bag. I'm a musician and need something to carry my books and music. It looked like your bag is going to accommodate letter sized documents and books. 👍
Excellent video and content... In my limited experience, I would glue everything up first and make sure the project is square, then punch the holes and stitch. But that's just me :D
Hi Justin, Great video as always. When prepunching the holes to fit a gusset should I punch the gusset from the flesh side, otherwise the slant of the stitching iron will not be lying in the same direction - or does it not matter?
Best method I've found is finding the length of your offset line for your stitching, not the length of the outside of the bag panels. So if you offset 1/8" from edge of your bags body, calculate that total length vs the exterior edge and you'll be on the money each time. Easy to toss in free cad based software to get it.
Thank you so very much! I am very enthusiastic beginner bag maker and I could not anything on how to measure for a gusset. Keep up the good work. I have a question...Do I have to prepare my leather if it is not tanned leather (I think that's what it's called)?
Yes technicall the gusset side would have the angle going the opposite direction. It doesnt matter when you are stitching the lines look great since there is no real "backside" to the hole.
to find an exact middle of the piece and I mean exact u need either a triangular ruller so u can be certain u are measuring perpendicular to the edge or a basic ruller and a compass divider. Find a half length of the edge, take that length into the compass, mark the middle, go to the perpendicular edge, find middle, do a semicircle with the compass on that middle of the edge, take half length of the edge u just made a semicircle against and do another semicircle in the middle of the perpendicular edge :D where these semicircles cross - there is your middle of the face :D (jesus this was more difficult to describe than I anticipated)
I made myself 1/8 graph paper. Then i draw my design as rectangles first. Then i get my round edge template and draw that on there. From this point i mark all my holes on the 1/8 graph paper. I mark a hole every 1/8 inch. Then the gussest is cut according to the length of the sides of the drawing plus a half inch. Then i make the same number of holes on the gussest as on the template.
Makesupply Leather That size is perfect for me. I want to make that bag for my sisters and nieces. Would I be able to call your company and talk to you about purchasing an acrylic template of this bag?
Steve Dodson takes about ten minutes to make one out of thick paper,measure from one edge get the width you want same for depth. Use cup ,can or anything round to make your corners, use your front piece to layout your back and ad gusset width and how far you want it to come down on front layout your center lines on pattern when your measuring it out . Save your money.lol
Is it the same with cross stitching ? I’m struggling with an odd shape and curved gusset if I’m honest !!! Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! Great video btw 👍🤓
@@MAKESUPPLYLEATHER it is more than 1 month and you did not fixed the problem with the file pattern. both lins lead to same file. please try to fix this problem
Great tutorial. Thank you. But why not just glue the gusset to the front panel and then punch the stitching holes through two layers of leather? Then do the same thing with the gusset and the back panel. The corners can get tricky, but there you can use an awl (if you're not already using one to make all the stitching holes) with a cork backing board.
Yes that is the most standard way for sure. I wanted to cover pre-punching since its used a fair amount on some of these other online tutorials and I havent seen any full instructions yet. I do both methods depending on the project Im working on.
Cool video. Please learn to pronounce "gusset". You keep saying "gosset". It's guh-set, not "gaw-set". But really, this video is helpful. My brain just kept getting sidetracked by it...
why can't you just glue the gusset onto the front then chisel and stitch them together from there? I feel like it could save you a lot of time and headache, but I assume I am missing something
That gusset would be too long wouldn't it? just by the measurement of the front and bag it should be 15. He keeps saying "gosset" but ive been saying gusset for years.
I would not have marked on the right side of the leather. Someone who's new to leather crafting is going to watch you do that and they're going to take a pen and mark the right side of their leather and then be upset because they have these marks that they can't get off. I would have marked on the reverse side just for the purpose of the video.
How do you guys do your gussets? I would love to hear what works for you.
Makesupply Leather I do the gusset like you do the front , I get my first stitch down from the top and square across and mark with awl then go from one side to the other checking occasionally with the square. If you need to gain or loose you can push chisel to front or back of previous hole. Saves a little time but you still have to count. Lol
If you are going to hand stitch, start at the center mark of your leather piece and punch holes around your main pieces. Count the number of holes. Go to your gusset, start in the center and punch the same amount of holes. (Plus the add 1/8" or 1/4" what you left over at the top of your piece) do both sides and you will have the correct length. cut and sew.
Using a machine. I use a flexible tape and measure all the way around the piece. The tricky part is around the corners. You need to roll the piece around the the tap, not the tap around the corner. Until you get this down, add a little extra. I don't do video's otherwise I would show you. (Just don't know how, maybe one day)
Hope this makes sense, PM me if it doesn't.
Do you have a video on how you sewed them together?
Do your pricking irons have diagonal chisels? If so and you pre-punch your holes like that, don't the diagonal holes end up in opposite directions when you stitch the gusset to the front piece?
@@justinlehman7408 You just saved me from typing that :) I tried it years ago when I first started and soon realised the angles of the holes don't match up.
This video single-handedly doubled the number of legit leather-makers in the world.
An excellent tutorial, and very timely, for me. I do have to admit, every time I heard 'GOS-set', I flinched a bit. Quite a lot, really. . .
I get made fun of for my Pennsylvania accent as well.
Haha how do other people pronounce it??
Impossible to hide
Makesupply Leather, it's like Little Miss Muffet, sewed on a gusset. And it rhymes with russet.
@@MAKESUPPLYLEATHER GUH-set.
The only guy who shared a method forma this, in the entire net. I came up with my own, on Illistrator. If you ask, of course I would gladly share.
Yes I usually use Illustrator as well but I try to do something for people that dont have access or dont want to use it.
Justin, this is a game changer. I have wasted so much time with glue and binder clips, and made a huge mess doing so. This technique is much cleaner and professional looking. Great tutorial and I look forward to seeing more!
No problem! Ive thrown tons of projects against the wall after getting this wrong countless times haha
To avoid making bags and pouches propeller like, you need the absolute symmetry! Your method is ok, but not the easiest one. I do my gussets in this way: i use paper/cardboard patterns and just fold them by the vertical axis.Then start punching holes from folded side - from lower center of pattern. When you unfold pattern you'll have absolutely same number of holes on the both sides, with one in the center of pattern. Use this pattern to mark holes on the leather pieces, then punch it. Its easy. Then use the same pattern to make holes on the back side of the bag, but mark holes on the back side of leather (on the flesh side). In this way, both parts will have same holes in same places. After that, make a pattern for gusset - a long rectangle, and fold it on the long side axis. Than just count holes and make same amount of holes on the unfolded side of pattern. When you unfold pattern you'll have absolutely same number of holes on the both sides, again, and it will be symmetrical. Now you can start stitching from any end - result will be the same, without deformation or errors. Maybe, i should do a video with my method. I use it for years and it's worked every time.
Excellent. Thank you!
I hope u posted a video of this
@@CeeJay254Art yes, i do. Check my channel
😊w😊pa1le1
we need a video of your method mate
It’s May 2023 and here I find one of the best pattern calculation on the internet. Thank you. That is not OCD! That is simply careful accurate working. So easy to do, but hard to do so well.
By Odins beard. I tried to wrap my head arount gussets for WEEKS. I am always worried about something not lining up and being crooked because of rounded edges and stuff. But this REALLY made my entire day. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
No problem! I make these kind of designs every day and STILL get the alignment/measurements/hole spacing wrong sometimes. Those round edges are cursed.
@@MAKESUPPLYLEATHER A mathematician once told me, that the basic problem is the change from straight to "raidal lines" or something like that. The beeline between two points on a curve is always shorter than the distance on a straight line. And those tiny "mistakes", which are a fraction of a milimeter, add up. And than it's getting crooked.
I first encountered that problem when I sew a plague doctor's mask. The holes simply didn't want to align right. Because I wanted to use my chisels instead of punching each hole on the template... :D
@@kalamir93 and @MAKESUPPLYLEATHER I have faced this problem in my work. Imagine an athletics track at the Olympics. Those running along the outside lane seem to be running more than those running along the inside lane. In the rounded side gussets (round edges) of leather bags or others accessories we will always have this final imprecision depending on the thickness of the leathers used. Your technique is excellent for our learning, but it will never have 100% mathematical precision. So relax, because it's a handmade craft. Let's remember that nature is crooked but beautiful.
Great idea i have had trouble with holes lining up and after i tried this it worked perfectly. Great video
Hello, Sir, You saved me a from having a huge problem by your having explained your method in the above. Thank You, Ever-So-Much!!!
Thanks a million. I watched this video when I already have a cut medieval shoulder bag with a gusset sitting on the work bench. My only problem is how to stitch it. Because this is a thick 3mm leather, sewing it on my singer heavy duty machine is not an option. I am only starting to make more precise leather items thanks to Adobe illustrator. It is always worth investing in illustrator. I also got the illustrator workbook for reference purposes. This video is a life saver. Thanks for sharing the methods. Knowledge as they say is power.
Yes Illustrator saves soo much time. Glad it was helpful!
Best instructional video I've seen yet.
probably the most useful video on bag making that I've watched.. thanks a million
I am right now working on my first messenger bag and this video came out at JUST THE RIGHT TIME! THANK YOU!!!
Mind blown, thanks!!! I’ve been winging it with all of my gusset assemblies and rattled off more than a fair share of profanities because EVERY time the gusset has ended up skew. Can’t wait to get cracking with this! Thank you!
I have always battled with the corners of the gussets. This solves my problems. And yes, I am OCD! Great tutorial!
Your officially my favourite streamer. - Thanks for all the fine detail!Keep up the great work
OMG this is such a game changer for me; extremely helpful. Thank you so much for posting this.
Justin you are a wealth of knowledge! Thank you for all you do for us here in the leather industry!!
Thank you for making this video. Gusset drafting has been bugging me for some time now.
Thanks for posting Justin. Had to build one just to remind myself what a pain stitching gussets can be.. Regarding stitch holes, using my 4mm irons I counted 54 holes per side excluding center hole.
Thx Justin. As always a great and very informative video. Thank you for taking the time. Really appreciate :)
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much, this helps a lot!
To do the gusset i start at mid point from the panel and punch the holes from center outward to the end i just do the same for the gusset and usually add 3 or 4 extra punching holes then trim as needed. The only thing is counting the holes as punching which is a must.
Usually, I count the stitching holes. Yeah I know its hard and time consuming but the result will always spot on.
Karl Albiston me too but I hate it. I just finished a back pack and I had as much time in counting and recounting as I did hand stitching.lol
First I make the computer count for me then I count on paper just to make sure
So the key word here is "counting". Hahaha
Very nice information for gussets length measurements.
thank's for your videos and all the free pattern thank's a lot, merci beaucoup 👍😁
This was very helpful! Thank you! I tend to rush these kinds of things! Need to lean to slow down and plan ahead! :)
What An Exellent Tutorial ...👍👏
Here I've been pronouncing it "gus-its" I'm glad I figured out that it's "goss-its" before I looked foolish!
I like this method. The only thing i would do differently is, if the stitching area for the front panel and back panel are the same, i would lay it on top of each other and punch both pieces together. Thanks again for the method.
I've done this before and while it is quicker, I don't do so anymore because especially with thicker leather (anything over ~6oz) it's easy for the irons to go through at a slight angle and wind up with different edge spacing from front to back.
Excellent video, this is the most comprehensive video on this subject I've seen! This method would also work if you were to invert the bag so the seam was hidden on the inside, good work man
Hey Man, you make some really great stuff. I found this video very helpful for when I do gussets from now on. For you next tutorial video can you show me how to make a sunglass case. I'd really love to see how you would make one and please let me know when you do it. Great stuff man! - Gary
I can't wait for the bag. I'm a musician and need something to carry my books and music. It looked like your bag is going to accommodate letter sized documents and books. 👍
Excellent video and content... In my limited experience, I would glue everything up first and make sure the project is square, then punch the holes and stitch. But that's just me :D
This is gold, thanks a lot!
Yup that's helpful. Saves me from fudging it at the ends with fake stitches on one piece when the numbers don't match! (Yes, I've done that)
Thanks so much for this very useful lesson . You have very nice hands,
Lou Gusset Jr.
Great instructions. Thank you.
This was a great tutorial. Thank you.
Hi Justin,
Great video as always. When prepunching the holes to fit a gusset should I punch the gusset from the flesh side, otherwise the slant of the stitching iron will not be lying in the same direction - or does it not matter?
Amazing helpful video. Thank you SO MUCH!
Best method I've found is finding the length of your offset line for your stitching, not the length of the outside of the bag panels.
So if you offset 1/8" from edge of your bags body, calculate that total length vs the exterior edge and you'll be on the money each time. Easy to toss in free cad based software to get it.
Genial, excelente explicación. Gracias por compartir. Saludos.
Excellent job! Thanks for the demo 👍🏼 😊 G
Awesome 👌 thanks for the help..
Great tips! Thanks a ton my friend.
Excelente aporte...👍
Hi, beautiful work. How do you manage to make the curved parts without cutting?
This is great thank you so much
Excellent! Excellent !merci pour le partage...
Thank you so very much! I am very enthusiastic beginner bag maker and I could not anything on how to measure for a gusset. Keep up the good work. I have a question...Do I have to prepare my leather if it is not tanned leather (I think that's what it's called)?
Thx a lot.
Your tips are wonderful. You explain everything very well. Can you do more about creating projects in AI? Greetings from Poland :)
Very helpful thanks
Arent the holes backwards on the gusset? Does it matter? Do you get a better stick if you turn over gusset and then punch?
Yes technicall the gusset side would have the angle going the opposite direction. It doesnt matter when you are stitching the lines look great since there is no real "backside" to the hole.
Great tutorial, I'm looking forward to your bag templates coming out. Any idea as to when? Messenger bags and?
Smaller satchel is coming next. I have all hardware finally. Going to expand from there.
to find an exact middle of the piece and I mean exact u need either a triangular ruller so u can be certain u are measuring perpendicular to the edge or a basic ruller and a compass divider. Find a half length of the edge, take that length into the compass, mark the middle, go to the perpendicular edge, find middle, do a semicircle with the compass on that middle of the edge, take half length of the edge u just made a semicircle against and do another semicircle in the middle of the perpendicular edge :D where these semicircles cross - there is your middle of the face :D (jesus this was more difficult to describe than I anticipated)
Very helpfull, thank you
Brilliant, thanks
What kind of leather is that? Nice pliability and look.
Great info thanks
Will this method work when you sew a bag inside out then turn it right side out to finish?
I made myself 1/8 graph paper. Then i draw my design as rectangles first. Then i get my round edge template and draw that on there. From this point i mark all my holes on the 1/8 graph paper. I mark a hole every 1/8 inch. Then the gussest is cut according to the length of the sides of the drawing plus a half inch. Then i make the same number of holes on the gussest as on the template.
Im probably gonna mix my method with your method
This is awesome! This was exactly what I’ve been looking for. Do you have an acrylic template for this? If you do, I will buy one.
I dont have an acrylic for this but could make one. I just kind of picked a size that would fit on paper to print out.
Makesupply Leather That size is perfect for me. I want to make that bag for my sisters and nieces. Would I be able to call your company and talk to you about purchasing an acrylic template of this bag?
Steve Dodson takes about ten minutes to make one out of thick paper,measure from one edge get the width you want same for depth. Use cup ,can or anything round to make your corners, use your front piece to layout your back and ad gusset width and how far you want it to come down on front layout your center lines on pattern when your measuring it out . Save your money.lol
Como sempre belas!👏👏👏👏
What the flock is a gawset?
Thanks, i appreciate the info. No matter which way you pronounced it...lol
Super helpful for me as a beginner who frequently ends up with odd stitch counts! PS: where did you get your work top?
Gracias por la generosidad en compartir su saber. :-)
Thanks broo
Is it the same with cross stitching ? I’m struggling with an odd shape and curved gusset if I’m honest !!! Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! Great video btw 👍🤓
Gracias, es perfecto!!
I have a broblem whith round bages ? Can I do the same ?
Does this work for round gussets ?
hearing someone say gaucet instead of gusset shouldnt bother me this much lol
OK, it's "GUS" not "GOS" ha ha ha yeah I always cut my GUSset a bit long and stitch from middle out on both sides, is Philly still on lockdown?
Haha im not sure how its really pronounced thats just how it comes out.
Yeah still officially on lockdown...but.... Im around.
@@MAKESUPPLYLEATHER it's definitely GUS-set, otherwise you sound like you're degaussing electronic equipment
I’ve been overshooting to prevent being short for ages. Here I thought you were going to show how to get it on the money. 🙄
Hey you guys remember Lou Gusset Junior? 1983 Oscar winner, Lou Gusset Jr. 🤣🤣 Good tips bud.
Wasn't just me, then! Lol!
Oh thank God....
thanks for the tutorial. I would like to tell you that both pdf links lead to pdf letter size. can you fix this problem? again thanks and all the best
I will look at that thank you
@@MAKESUPPLYLEATHER two weeks have passed and the problem with the links has not been resolved. both lead to the same file (letter size)
@@MAKESUPPLYLEATHER it is more than 1 month and you did not fixed the problem with the file pattern. both lins lead to same file. please try to fix this problem
What about using software....like many others do...
Great tutorial. Thank you. But why not just glue the gusset to the front panel and then punch the stitching holes through two layers of leather? Then do the same thing with the gusset and the back panel. The corners can get tricky, but there you can use an awl (if you're not already using one to make all the stitching holes) with a cork backing board.
Yes that is the most standard way for sure. I wanted to cover pre-punching since its used a fair amount on some of these other online tutorials and I havent seen any full instructions yet. I do both methods depending on the project Im working on.
Спасибо, трудоемко, но точнее чем обычно делается и я 300 👍. 😀
GUSSET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cool video. Please learn to pronounce "gusset". You keep saying "gosset". It's guh-set, not "gaw-set". But really, this video is helpful. My brain just kept getting sidetracked by it...
i start with hand stitching but at moment i use even sewing machine so sometimes i dont have so much problem on stitch coz not need to make the count
Yeah no need for this when using a sewing machine. Ive been doing that a lot lately myself.
👍👍👍👍
Your voice sounds like Corter Leather
Why do some people make gussets out of 3 pieces?
0:36 "Gosset"?
Gusset vs Gausset.
Sorry, I’ve just got to correct you here...it’s NOT GOSSET. That’s how you are pronouncing it. It is GUSSET. As in the man’s name Gus.
Oh my god he’s driving me crazy
Has he never seen the word spelled out?
You must be the English monitor...
@@JohnnyGoad-sl6br I'm an editor and proofreader, couple that with OCD and you've got me. Live with it or learn to spell 😆
@@roodog3761you have a medical diagnosis for OCD?
What is your email for questions?
But dont get me wrong, its a good method.
why can't you just glue the gusset onto the front then chisel and stitch them together from there? I feel like it could save you a lot of time and headache, but I assume I am missing something
That gusset would be too long wouldn't it? just by the measurement of the front and bag it should be 15. He keeps saying "gosset" but ive been saying gusset for years.
That ol what I thought was useless to learn algebra math can play a major factor in life after all?
its a GUSSETT.
I would not have marked on the right side of the leather. Someone who's new to leather crafting is going to watch you do that and they're going to take a pen and mark the right side of their leather and then be upset because they have these marks that they can't get off. I would have marked on the reverse side just for the purpose of the video.