Hi Greg, First, thanks you very much for the great comment about Philippe and I, as well as the mentionning of our own projects... This was an awsome visit meeting you and also your charming wife... Nice to see the actual restoration of your lathe, should get to be a decent machine with all the care you put towards it. All the best, Pierre
Thanks for the great " heads up" It was a pleasure to meet you and your charming wife. Looking forwards to meeting you two again. Great video as always, Cheers Greg
Hello Teb Seem long time ago but your info keeps getting new. I am a homemade shop I wondering about two gears on both sides of the pulley used for what? Because I planning to build a homemade headstock lathe similar to this.
You had me a 'pecker tracks'! LOL! AvE also teaches to check bearings under load, not just spinning freely. Nice to get a reminder. Keep up the great work!
Man, one of these times I was hoping someone's SB 13" would be the same as mine, LOL. I've got a 1919 SB model #32 plain-screw feed with a 6 foot bed and it's a bit different. 1 3/4"x8tpi spindle with 3/4" through hole, bronze bearings with top-feed oilers...etc., etc....Thanks for the great video regardless, it's nice to see your bearings are so sweet, mine are chowder and will need a rebuild. I'll send you a link when I post my next video detailing the issue, and hopefully you'll have a chance to take a look...Aloha, Chuck.
Just a tip. when you put the end gear on the spindle, I used a threaded rod to pull the gear back on the end of the spindle. After thinking about it some, a better way is to heat up the gear and it will slide on,
Hey greg, enjoyable video. Just a comment on the oil, if it has a solvent smell, it may be light hydraulic oil, say a nuto or a telus 68, which is a very plain simple mix with mild anti-wear additives. the strategy being; the less additives, the less chance of the oil oxidizing, where as motor oil is highly formulated with lots of additives( it works and is available everywhere, but you don't really need all the extras). Hope you can use this info, cheers.
He is, by day, an HVAC service tech. Pecker tracks are very common words in our everyday vocabulary. The ammount of hacks out there working on equipment is staggering!
motor oil and mineral spirits maybe? May have been owned by one of those "all oil is the same" types. The oil that came out of my 10L was thick, but it just smelled like old nasty oxidized oil. Bearings were perfectly fine though, so either it wasn't run enough to bother it, or the oil wasn't thick enough to cause damage. If thats the same OD spindle as the 10L, try an AC Delco 24214159. 10L is 1 7/8" OD (1.875") and the ID on the bearing is 1.911". Its the closest thing I was able to find. Mine had no fiber washer, it was a steel shim that was badly mangled. Its been on mine for several months now, seems to work OK.
Greg, is there any real reason to press that bull gear off at this point? Is the ring on that side another thrust washer or is it a bearing shaft seal? (Or both?) Always great videos.
using an adjustable jaw wrench is just a step above using a pair of vice grips. They make box end and open end wrenches of the proper size to do these jobs. If you are a professional, then you should have the proper wrenches or even sockets. Sorry, just a pet peve of mine.
Your best source would be off of eBay or ask on the South bend Facebook page or machinist forums to see if anyone has a set. Sometimes they show up by themselves, but you may have to get a whole headstock. There is no direct off the shelf replacement.
Hello Teb Seem long time ago but your info keeps getting new. I am a homemade shop I wondering about two gears on both sides of the pulley used for what? Because I planning to build a homemade headstock lathe similar to this.
@@accidentaltradesman5139 Yes the back plate will just screw onto the spindle nose threads. They can get stick if they sit for a long time and the vast iron of the backplate starts to rust. Your best bet is to start with a good penetrating oil like kroil. Let it soak and see what happens. Grab the spindle with a strap wrench around the pulleys and see if you can get it off. Clamp a piece of hex stock in the chick and a wrench on that for leverage.
Hi Greg,
First, thanks you very much for the great comment about Philippe and I, as well as the mentionning of our own projects...
This was an awsome visit meeting you and also your charming wife...
Nice to see the actual restoration of your lathe, should get to be a decent machine with all the care you put towards it.
All the best, Pierre
Thanks for the great " heads up"
It was a pleasure to meet you and your charming wife.
Looking forwards to meeting you two again.
Great video as always, Cheers Greg
Great video, Grad! Thanks for sharing. Glad to hear that you had a nice time with Phil and Pierre; they seem like great guys.
Hello Teb
Seem long time ago but your info keeps getting new.
I am a homemade shop I wondering about two gears on both sides of the pulley used for what? Because I planning to build a homemade headstock lathe similar to this.
You had me a 'pecker tracks'! LOL! AvE also teaches to check bearings under load, not just spinning freely. Nice to get a reminder. Keep up the great work!
Man, one of these times I was hoping someone's SB 13" would be the same as mine, LOL. I've got a 1919 SB model #32 plain-screw feed with a 6 foot bed and it's a bit different. 1 3/4"x8tpi spindle with 3/4" through hole, bronze bearings with top-feed oilers...etc., etc....Thanks for the great video regardless, it's nice to see your bearings are so sweet, mine are chowder and will need a rebuild. I'll send you a link when I post my next video detailing the issue, and hopefully you'll have a chance to take a look...Aloha, Chuck.
Looking good. Conbradulations on not finding anything scary in there.
Appreciate the video fidelity. Awesome zoom footage
Just a tip. when you put the end gear on the spindle, I used a threaded rod to pull the gear back on the end of the spindle. After thinking about it some, a better way is to heat up the gear and it will slide on,
thanks for the tip
Hey greg, enjoyable video. Just a comment on the oil, if it has a solvent smell, it may be light hydraulic oil, say a nuto or a telus 68, which is a very plain simple mix with mild anti-wear additives. the strategy being; the less additives, the less chance of the oil oxidizing, where as motor oil is highly formulated with lots of additives( it works and is available everywhere, but you don't really need all the extras). Hope you can use this info, cheers.
Interesting. It's possible. Velocite 2 is going in there just like the 9. I have a gallon.... lifetime of it
I scanned through the Machinery's Handbook, and couldn't find a reference to "Pecker Tracks". Is that a metric term perhaps?
Thanks for sharing
He is, by day, an HVAC service tech. Pecker tracks are very common words in our everyday vocabulary. The ammount of hacks out there working on equipment is staggering!
It's a technical term
Ya know Brad, yer just invitin' viewers ta do dis. ;)
lovin the lead paint joke
i always call small gauges oil grooves for improved lubrication!
I'm a bit jealous of those bearing surfaces. Much better the lathe I recently put back together. How was the run-out?
Going to test everything when I get it together and adjust the shims. I have a feeling the clearance was off.
awesome.. could you sand out the rough spots in the shim bearings?
thanks for posting
What town are you in MA? Im originally from Brockton...My father had a big job shop in Easton for over 40 yrs...Live in Florida now!
Perhaps now you can see why I do not use adjustable spanners, they BELONG on the floor, use the correct size spanner for the job.
Is the chuck flange removable on these spindles?
motor oil and mineral spirits maybe? May have been owned by one of those "all oil is the same" types. The oil that came out of my 10L was thick, but it just smelled like old nasty oxidized oil. Bearings were perfectly fine though, so either it wasn't run enough to bother it, or the oil wasn't thick enough to cause damage.
If thats the same OD spindle as the 10L, try an AC Delco 24214159. 10L is 1 7/8" OD (1.875") and the ID on the bearing is 1.911". Its the closest thing I was able to find. Mine had no fiber washer, it was a steel shim that was badly mangled. Its been on mine for several months now, seems to work OK.
Thanks! I'll check it out
Greg, is there any real reason to press that bull gear off at this point? Is the ring on that side another thrust washer or is it a bearing shaft seal? (Or both?) Always great videos.
No it's staying in
Hay Brad uh Greg, I caught that window sill comment. 'me too'
nice job
using an adjustable jaw wrench is just a step above using a pair of vice grips. They make box end and open end wrenches of the proper size to do these jobs. If you are a professional, then you should have the proper wrenches or even sockets. Sorry, just a pet peve of mine.
It takes 6K collets. I have a collet drawbar and a way mounted rack. Let me know if you have any interest.
Nice.
where can I find the split bronze bearings?
Your best source would be off of eBay or ask on the South bend Facebook page or machinist forums to see if anyone has a set. Sometimes they show up by themselves, but you may have to get a whole headstock. There is no direct off the shelf replacement.
Hey Brad: Nice video :)
Only four times? Not too bad. LOL
I knew it, I knew it. You did eat paint chips as a kid.😃
taste like snozberries
Hello Teb
Seem long time ago but your info keeps getting new.
I am a homemade shop I wondering about two gears on both sides of the pulley used for what? Because I planning to build a homemade headstock lathe similar to this.
Is the chuck flange removable on these spindles?
Is the chuck flange removable on these spindles?
If you're talking about the flat portion after the threads that the chuck seats against then no it is not removable.
Halligan142, thanks, but I’m asking about the chuck backing plate, mine seems to be stuck, and I expected it to thread off but It’s not budging
@@accidentaltradesman5139
Yes the back plate will just screw onto the spindle nose threads. They can get stick if they sit for a long time and the vast iron of the backplate starts to rust. Your best bet is to start with a good penetrating oil like kroil. Let it soak and see what happens. Grab the spindle with a strap wrench around the pulleys and see if you can get it off. Clamp a piece of hex stock in the chick and a wrench on that for leverage.
Halligan142 thanks man! I’ll give it a shot