After hundred of hours watching many youtube videos I finally understood why slow speed would cause harm to a motor.Before I thought slow is safe, fast is danger.Thanks for explanation that.You did a super job there.The motor sounds pleasing and happy.I went back to hear the before.It's like night and day.Great project and thank you.
OMG! What a Great video!!! I love the old ones. I am learning and you have helped so much, Thank you! I am working on many Vitage DeWalt Radial arm saw motors from the 40's.....these motors are so much fun to work on. I'd love to pick your brain!!! You have so much more experience.
Hi Greg, I find it very satisfying to be able to ressurect old gear. Well done, and thanks for the useful 'mark it first' reminder - sometimes I've forgotten! Bob
Great video. I love watching this stuff. Nothing beats when a plan comes together. I have been shopping for an old rusty crusty Wilton vise to work on as a project. Thanks for sharing and looking forward to the next video.....Ken
A lot more effort and care went into the old school motors in my opinion. They seem to run a lot quieter than the newer ones as well. Plus they had a lot more honesty in there advertising about a motors HP under average running conditions. There not quite as power efficient as the newer ones, but that's a small point to get better HP and torque for the price of some time and a set of bearings. Nicely explained video.
You might want to look on Ebay in the future for bearings. On my lathe the local bearing supply store wanted a lot for each bearing. I ended up finding new old stock ones for a fraction of the price.
Greg, Nice work on the motor. Compared with today's motors, I was surprised at how short the field coil and rotor are. I've replaced my share of motor bearings in everything from 1.5hp to 10hp 3PH motors, as well as taken some motors in to the motor shop for rewinding. Most had shielded bearings. Real dusty conditions used sealed bearings. I have never encountered open bearings with grease zerks, although I have never worked on super old machines. Thanks for the great video! If you don't put up another between now and Dec. 25th, have the happiest of holidays and a super New Year! Have a good one! Dave
Thanks for a great video, I always enjoyed rebuilding old style equipment Back in the day they built things to last forever. Joe Morris Balto. County MD .
This is an extremely helpful video explained in a way for all to understand. Thank you, I have had a hard time finding similar content. Liked, subscribed and added this video to favorites
Hi Greg, Those 3 phases motors are so simple to refurbish... This looks much better than a modern motor on an older made machine... ;) One word of caution on older motors and VFD, the insulation on the older motors isn't rated as high than newer motors and since VFDs are known to produce some pretty high voltage spikes that could ruin the insulation of those older motors, this is where a megger would give you a rating in order to decide if the insulation is sufficient to handle the spikes without dammage. Cheers, Pierre
Yup. I don't use the braking function so that's one source of big spikes taken out. For the amount of time it'll be running I don't think it will be a huge issue. Only time will tell
A Wastinghorse. Thought so. Built like an iron bridge. Literally. For future reference. When looking at a rebuild, just bite the bullet and hose out the motor before you start. You can use a pressure washer but avoid blasting the wiring connects. The water won't hurt a thing and makes it a lot neater on the workbench. These old style motors had a bit more clearance between rotor and iron. So they had a bit more slip but were a heck of a lot more tolerant to imbalance and could swallow a phenomenal amount of dirt and keep on cranking.
Greg, Great rebuild on that old motor. I would have done the same thing. Old motors like this one are so beefy and do a great job I like heavy duty motors like that. In my opinion, modern motors don't quite match up to your old boy. Thanks for the video. Merry Christmas.
What frame size is that motor. I'm picking up my 40s single tumbler 13"x5' tomorrow and even if the motor ohms out I'm kinda hesitant to hook up my 30hp rotary phase converter to it if it fails down the road.
GREAT clean up and rebuild job! It may not be this video, but on one I saw a book 'A Guide to Renovating the South Bend Lathe...' I had NO idea those existed, and I have watched many a lathe and milling machine restoration video, so thanks for making me aware of that! What kind of cleaner can you use on motor windings? Do they make a special one? Very silent smooth motor now, keep up the great work!
I've got a couple of three-quarter horse 3 phase Motors that I can't seem to find a vfd for. everytime I talk to a manufacturer supplier rather they say they don't have one for that small of a motor. do you have any insight into this I've heard other people running 1/2 and 3/4 Motors find the vfd
Greg, Just found your channel and love it, I have a 1937 13"SBL UMD as well as a 1965 9" SBL HMD still has the scrapings on the ways...I have a question about the 13" UMD. Do you have a technique to re-install the electric motor to the mount? I am a one man show and there has to be an easier way that I am unaware of to remount the motor to the plate...mine uses a 1.5HP 3 phase at 1140rmp..thank you for a great channel...very informative.
Man that electricity back in them days must have has some really dirty electrons in it. I've got some old motors like that. I'm sure they must have cleaned up the electricity since those were in use. LOL Just kidding. I just replaced the bearings in one that looked like someone had used it for a trolling motor. LOL Great video thanks for sharing.
my opinion is, if you have a grease nipple, then the regular bearings will last easily as long as sealed, and i reckon longer, as the grease creates a seal anyway even if you only grease it once, but you have the option to make it last even longer with a bit of grease, esp when you will have to lube the rest of the lathe anyway, its just another one to do
You need to mention when ohming the windings, if you get a 0 reading, it's probably shorted. You should get 4-8 ohms depending on the motor. Or you'll get sparky sparky flash boom the breaker and release the factory installed smoke in the motor.
Nice result - with the use of a stone age tool, though. I just can't believe how stuck You guys are to the use of those adjustable wrenches. A 10" T-handle with a socket on, makes those 8 bolts fly out like nothing! Apart from this little rant, I just love Your videos. Keep'em coming! ;)
wow man. that is the nastiest i have ever seen a motor look. and i have taken many apart. i have no clue why that motor hasnt burned itself up. theres no way that fan kept it cool. good thing your doing this
I would also add that they probably deliver more torque than the newer ones also. I love the older ones myself. As a matter of fact I always prefer cast iron .
Dude, get your self a battery powered impact drive with a 3/8" square drive adaptor. I've watched you use a socket wrench for so long back and forth until I can't stand it. You would think in HVAC you would have one to speed up your work....?
Probably more than two pumps of grease, the cavities look larger than that. Too much grease will sling off and cost a few cents. Too little grease will cost $50.00 per end...
Small tip on checking out bearings: Get ye a cheap stethoscope on Fleabay (the thing doctors have hanging around their necks) Replace the head with a fine tube, which is closed on the business end.(6 to 10 inches will do it, about 1/8" in diameter or less) You will be amazed how clear you can hear bearings going bad long before anyone else with this cheap $ 5 tool ! Paddy
After hundred of hours watching many youtube videos I finally understood why slow speed would cause harm to a motor.Before I thought slow is safe, fast is danger.Thanks for explanation that.You did a super job there.The motor sounds pleasing and happy.I went back to hear the before.It's like night and day.Great project and thank you.
I love seeing an old motor get a new life. Those are gems! Nice project Halligan!
OMG! What a Great video!!! I love the old ones. I am learning and you have helped so much, Thank you! I am working on many Vitage DeWalt Radial arm saw motors from the 40's.....these motors are so much fun to work on. I'd love to pick your brain!!! You have so much more experience.
Hi Greg, I find it very satisfying to be able to ressurect old gear. Well done, and thanks for the useful 'mark it first' reminder - sometimes I've forgotten! Bob
Great video. I love watching this stuff. Nothing beats when a plan comes together. I have been shopping for an old rusty crusty Wilton vise to work on as a project. Thanks for sharing and looking forward to the next video.....Ken
Always great information, cheers, Paul
Very useful thanks. I got a greased bearing motor to service this weekend and now know what to expect.
A lot more effort and care went into the old school motors in my opinion. They seem to run a lot quieter than the newer ones as well. Plus they had a lot more honesty in there advertising about a motors HP under average running conditions. There not quite as power efficient as the newer ones, but that's a small point to get better HP and torque for the price of some time and a set of bearings. Nicely explained video.
Interesting video....love the old stuff. Keep 'em coming.
Glad to see the original motor will still do its job. It will feel right on the lathe.
You might want to look on Ebay in the future for bearings. On my lathe the local bearing supply store wanted a lot for each bearing. I ended up finding new old stock ones for a fraction of the price.
I actually checked. They were just as expensive as my local supply. At least at the time. Now that it's done they're probably all $5
That looks just the job and will suit that machine really well.
Been watching more and more of you content, Halligan. Good stuff.
Greg,
Nice work on the motor. Compared with today's motors, I was surprised at how short the field coil and rotor are. I've replaced my share of motor bearings in everything from 1.5hp to 10hp 3PH motors, as well as taken some motors in to the motor shop for rewinding. Most had shielded bearings. Real dusty conditions used sealed bearings. I have never encountered open bearings with grease zerks, although I have never worked on super old machines. Thanks for the great video! If you don't put up another between now and Dec. 25th, have the happiest of holidays and a super New Year!
Have a good one!
Dave
Thank You!
Love these old motors, nice work!
Thanks for a great video, I always enjoyed rebuilding old style equipment Back
in the day they built things to last forever. Joe Morris Balto. County MD .
This is an extremely helpful video explained in a way for all to understand. Thank you, I have had a hard time finding similar content. Liked, subscribed and added this video to favorites
I believe for motor refurbish they use a certain type of ultrasonic cleaning tank for deep cleaning windings/armature.
Thanks for all the info you shared on this video
Its going to help me with my lathe motor
Manny
Hi Greg,
Those 3 phases motors are so simple to refurbish...
This looks much better than a modern motor on an older made machine... ;)
One word of caution on older motors and VFD, the insulation on the older motors isn't rated as high than newer motors and since VFDs are known to produce some pretty high voltage spikes that could ruin the insulation of those older motors, this is where a megger would give you a rating in order to decide if the insulation is sufficient to handle the spikes without dammage.
Cheers, Pierre
Yup. I don't use the braking function so that's one source of big spikes taken out. For the amount of time it'll be running I don't think it will be a huge issue. Only time will tell
A Wastinghorse. Thought so. Built like an iron bridge. Literally.
For future reference. When looking at a rebuild, just bite the bullet and hose out the motor before you start. You can use a pressure washer but avoid blasting the wiring connects. The water won't hurt a thing and makes it a lot neater on the workbench.
These old style motors had a bit more clearance between rotor and iron. So they had a bit more slip but were a heck of a lot more tolerant to imbalance and could swallow a phenomenal amount of dirt and keep on cranking.
Greg,
Great rebuild on that old motor. I would have done the same thing. Old motors like this one are so beefy and do a great job I like heavy duty motors like that. In my opinion, modern motors don't quite match up to your old boy.
Thanks for the video.
Merry Christmas.
Why not just tap the shaft with the brass hammer to separate the housing? Just asking.
What frame size is that motor. I'm picking up my 40s single tumbler 13"x5' tomorrow and even if the motor ohms out I'm kinda hesitant to hook up my 30hp rotary phase converter to it if it fails down the road.
Can you remove this motor out of the front or side panel? Or do you have the pick the lathe up
Did you check the price of a standard bearing plus the trouble of making a spacer to match? Fifty bucks sounds like alot for a bearing that size.
GREAT clean up and rebuild job! It may not be this video, but on one I saw a book 'A Guide to Renovating the South Bend Lathe...' I had NO idea those existed, and I have watched many a lathe and milling machine restoration video, so thanks for making me aware of that! What kind of cleaner can you use on motor windings? Do they make a special one? Very silent smooth motor now, keep up the great work!
Nice job! Thank you for sharing.
awesome you are willing and want to retain that older motor!
I've got a couple of three-quarter horse 3 phase Motors that I can't seem to find a vfd for. everytime I talk to a manufacturer supplier rather they say they don't have one for that small of a motor. do you have any insight into this I've heard other people running 1/2 and 3/4 Motors find the vfd
Real nice job on this.
Greg, Just found your channel and love it, I have a 1937 13"SBL UMD as well as a 1965 9" SBL HMD still has the scrapings on the ways...I have a question about the 13" UMD. Do you have a technique to re-install the electric motor to the mount? I am a one man show and there has to be an easier way that I am unaware of to remount the motor to the plate...mine uses a 1.5HP 3 phase at 1140rmp..thank you for a great channel...very informative.
I am so happy to see you using actual sockets. Did you get tired of me heckling you from the crowd over your danged adjustables? LOL
Another spot they wouldn't fit into :-)
Man that electricity back in them days must have has some really dirty electrons in it. I've got some old motors like that. I'm sure they must have cleaned up the electricity since those were in use. LOL Just kidding. I just replaced the bearings in one that looked like someone had used it for a trolling motor. LOL Great video thanks for sharing.
Very nice motor. Only a question. Why not used sealed bearings instead of have to always greasing them?
my opinion is, if you have a grease nipple, then the regular bearings will last easily as long as sealed, and i reckon longer, as the grease creates a seal anyway even if you only grease it once, but you have the option to make it last even longer with a bit of grease, esp when you will have to lube the rest of the lathe anyway, its just another one to do
I'm a big advocate for maintenance on equipment and serviceable parts. I hate "lifetime" lubricated things and parts on cars. Who's lifetime is it?
Could you have bought some standard bearings and made two spacers?
Possibly , but then you're having to play with fits and such. I just went the easier route.
Excellent save!
You need to mention when ohming the windings, if you get a 0 reading, it's probably shorted. You should get 4-8 ohms depending on the motor. Or you'll get sparky sparky flash boom the breaker and release the factory installed smoke in the motor.
Greg, do you have a dog driver plate for your SB13? I have one that is 1-7/8"-8 tpi, 5-1/2" OD. Contact me if you need one...
I do not. You can send me an e-mail to halligan142@gmail.com
Should use a megger to test the condition of insulated wiring.
Nice result - with the use of a stone age tool, though. I just can't believe how stuck You guys are to the use of those adjustable wrenches. A 10" T-handle with a socket on, makes those 8 bolts fly out like nothing! Apart from this little rant, I just love Your videos. Keep'em coming! ;)
Yeah, we were all graoning at that adjustable, specially when it was used at the tip of the jaws!
Horses used to be a lot stronger back then! LOL Chris
Good job, the old motor looks right :)
Nice, I've never used ricotta cheese to lubricate my parts. Gotta give that a try.
nice work great video.
nice save Greg
Great video!
Its funny at like 19:29 when you are getting the white container, you can see the bearing and puller move
Yup. That's when it broke free. Nice catch. Didn't notice that
great job bro
I always pack the bearings before re assembly.
wow man. that is the nastiest i have ever seen a motor look. and i have taken many apart. i have no clue why that motor hasnt burned itself up. theres no way that fan kept it cool. good thing your doing this
NEMA RERATE Of Motor's 👍👍👍
I like the no gloves look!
Honestly I don't wear them often so I just jump in and halfway through look at my hands and think yeah gloves would have been a good idea
nice work , that motor will last another 100 yrs
HP ratings can be deceiving. The older motors were rated at RUNNING horsepower. Newer motors are rated at PEAK. Take that in for a minute.......
I would also add that they probably deliver more torque than the newer ones also. I love the older ones myself. As a matter of fact I always prefer cast iron .
GREAT VIDEO !!
OLD MOTOR WORTH 10 NEW ONE ONES ! SPRAY STATOR WITH MOTOR EPOXY , GRAINGER , THEN IT'S A SUPER MOTOR .
Old Whipper -Snapper could you please explain.
Dude, get your self a battery powered impact drive with a 3/8" square drive adaptor. I've watched you use a socket wrench for so long back and forth until I can't stand it. You would think in HVAC you would have one to speed up your work....?
Probably more than two pumps of grease, the cavities look larger than that. Too much grease will sling off and cost a few cents. Too little grease will cost $50.00 per end...
Never good to over grease bearings. It will cause them to over heat and shorten there life and only cause more of a mess.
Small tip on checking out bearings:
Get ye a cheap stethoscope on Fleabay (the thing doctors have hanging around their necks)
Replace the head with a fine tube, which is closed on the business end.(6 to 10 inches will do it, about 1/8" in diameter or less)
You will be amazed how clear you can hear bearings going bad long before anyone else with this cheap $ 5 tool !
Paddy
The new stuff do not sound that nice. Nice work
First thing I do is clean all the shit off the cage .i hate working in shit.