Thanks for the video's Greg. Still working on my Heavy 10, 28 episodes and more to go. It's always nice to watch someone else do what you have to do first, LOL. Keep them coming my friend.
I believe most of the comparison error is due to tool pressure, thanks to the carbide insert. I'd try that cut again with a super sharp HS cutter, and do final passes that cut both measurement "journals", taking no more than 0.002 on the final pass.
You actually want to prevent twist in the bed. Leveling is an easy way to establish that. Any twist will cause the headstock to not be aligned with the ways and will manifest itself by a taper in your turned piece.
Me before this video: bah, my lathe is level enough. Video around 19:00 when you tighten some bolt and the indicator moves 0.001: “well F me” Thanks for the video mate.
I don't understand the chuck issue if it is not creeping?? You are turning around the center of the runout of the chuck so it should not enter into the issue, repeatability you bet, but not on the test setup. Think of turning an eccentric in the 4 jaw chuck if you offset the jaws it still turns concentric to the center of the stock. That said the lathe looks great, good job, I cut my teeth on a Southbend lathe.. Aloha and keep up the good work.
You're right in runout doesn't matter, but the jaws and scroll are so worn that the tool pressure is moving the part more than it should. I put an indicator and pushed with about the same pressure in line with each jaw and got 3 wildly different deflection readings.
If the work piece isn't parallel with the ways and spindle it is going to cut a taper. If you go to around 20:12 in the video and put the video on slow motion you can see how the end of the work piece that is being cut is wobbling. But not at the chuck area. There is no way you can make an accurate cut with stock that small in diameter sticking out that far without tail support.
Thanks for trying to get to as many of our questions and comments as you can when you can. That extra mile when possible is much appreciated and says a lot.
Thanks for the video's Greg. Still working on my Heavy 10, 28 episodes and more to go. It's always nice to watch someone else do what you have to do first, LOL. Keep them coming my friend.
Ha! Yours is turning out well though. Long process. Longer than I thought :-)
good idea on the point on the indicator.
nice video Greg
Thanks!
"offshore stank"? "tappy tap"? I detect some influence from a particular skookum choocher.
The project is truly a success. Very good work.
Thank you
Brilliant video, will help a lot when I get to levelling my 13" 👍 Do you have a link for the adjustable feet that you used?
Definitely useful info, and the lathe is looking pretty good!
I believe most of the comparison error is due to tool pressure, thanks to the carbide insert. I'd try that cut again with a super sharp HS cutter, and do final passes that cut both measurement "journals", taking no more than 0.002 on the final pass.
What’s the purpose of leveling the lathe? I have a SB 10 L (1968).
Thanks,
Paul
You actually want to prevent twist in the bed. Leveling is an easy way to establish that. Any twist will cause the headstock to not be aligned with the ways and will manifest itself by a taper in your turned piece.
Proceeds to bang on end of test bar. A real pro here
Me before this video: bah, my lathe is level enough.
Video around 19:00 when you tighten some bolt and the indicator moves 0.001: “well F me”
Thanks for the video mate.
Will we see any more hvac videos? Miss them
Yes. Been really busy and haven't had time to drag calls for videos.
مرحبا اريد التواصل معك لان عندي مخرطة نفس الموديل واحتاج قطع غيار لها
I LOVE the #Brad Counter - LOLOLOL
I think I lost track somewhere though....
I think I lost track somewhere though....
I AM GOING TO PM YOU MAN ! GREAT VID >>THUMBS UP..
3/4 of a thou, is that like three little lines less than one? LOL
Denny Skerb, that's funny! In my shop we say Tenths.
I don't understand the chuck issue if it is not creeping?? You are turning around the center of the runout of the chuck so it should not enter into the issue, repeatability you bet, but not on the test setup. Think of turning an eccentric in the 4 jaw chuck if you offset the jaws it still turns concentric to the center of the stock. That said the lathe looks great, good job, I cut my teeth on a Southbend lathe.. Aloha and keep up the good work.
You're right in runout doesn't matter, but the jaws and scroll are so worn that the tool pressure is moving the part more than it should. I put an indicator and pushed with about the same pressure in line with each jaw and got 3 wildly different deflection readings.
You DO need a new chuck!! Aloha
If the work piece isn't parallel with the ways and spindle it is going to cut a taper.
If you go to around 20:12 in the video and put the video on slow motion you can see how the end of the work piece that is being cut is wobbling.
But not at the chuck area.
There is no way you can make an accurate cut with stock that small in diameter sticking out that far without tail support.
Maybe the stink in the box is rust inhibitor?
Possibly. The bar was coated in oil but the box smells like death
Possibly. The bar was coated in oil but the box smells like death
Lol. One day the box will be worth more than the bar.
Do you have a link for the test bar?
Got it on amazon of all places
Thanks for trying to get to as many of our questions and comments as you can when you can. That extra mile when possible is much appreciated and says a lot.
Nice video Brad...err Greg ;)
Ooo, you said mitigate, hee, hee, hee!
that stink could be insecticide,treated before export at the customs department.
Lovely!
First