How to Paint a model car body with Testors Extreme Lacquers and 2 tone a body. Repair and Polish
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 เม.ย. 2023
- This video I show you how I paint with Testors Extreme Lacquers. I'm not an expert with the paints and have only painted a couple bodies recently as an adult. (Used it often as a youngster 20+yrs ago)
I was asked from a viewer for help so I put together a video to hopefully help them and anyone else that may learn or see something they can use in the video.
My Facebook:
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My email:
Sodakmodelcars@gmail.com
Recorded and Edited on a Samsung Galaxy S10+ using the InShot app. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Love those colors together! Testors one coat paints are awesome when used properly. For anyone trying them for a first time just remember, they are NOT a "one coat paint"
Thanks. Glad they dropped the "one coat lacquer" name. Most any paint is best when not trying to one coat it.
One tip that I find very helpful when using rattle can spray paint is to put the can in a container of warm water for 10 minutes between spray coat. Enamels and lacquer based paints work best with this technique. The paint flows so smooth on surface of the model! Just remember to use warm, not hot water-you don’t want you spray can exploding!
I will run it under hot faucet water to bring the pressure up for atomization. Cooler paint and cooler temperatures will allow it to flow longer/flash slower. Either way works as long as its the way that works for you.
@@sodakmodelcars what happens when a can bubbles up on the bottom? I've been putting cans in a glass jar with warm/hot water before coats and it works great, however I'm worried when some start to bubble and expand a lot near the base of the can.
If the can is deforming or leaking at the seams it's clearly to hot/high pressure. I've never seen a can deform, I've seen some very old cans leak at the bottom seam. But not from anything I've done.
When I talk about warming a can, its probably like 80-85 degrees. It should be warm but that's about it.
@@sodakmodelcars yeah I think I was using too hot of water lol. Thanks
Wow, no clear coat but it sure shines like it’s been cleared! Thanks for doing this!
Thank you! Hope it can help some.
Great video. The most helpful one I’ve watched so far as I get started in this hobby again!
Thank you! Welcome to the hobby and hope it goes well for ya!
Thank you for this video. I feel more confident now about using that paint!
Awesome, hope it does help! Hearing that makes it worth it!
Okay, I confess, I'm that guy that is trying to get that paint on NOW. That's part of my issue, but I also think my prep needs to be better also. I'm working on getting better with the Acrylic paints, but I'm sure your techniques can be applied there as well. Thanks for the great tutorial.
Yeah it happens... When I mess up a paint job is because I'm rushing it or trying to get it covered/done with "this" coat. Yeah I think it would work pretty directly with acrylics and mostly with enamels(enamels being more strict/touchy on recoat times).
Nice tutorial. Thanks for sharing.
Thank You Michael!
Excellent tutorial. Thank you sir.
Thank you and you're welcome!
Great job.we need more of these how to vids to help us out.
Thank you. I have more coming when I can.
Beautiful Job! Thank you for taking the time to put this together. It’s going to be a really big help! Be well!
Thanks you! I hope it can help!
Great video Adam! It's always good to watch someone else's method, I learned some helpful techniques. Your paint turned out great! Thanks for the video 😎👍
Thanks Mike! Glad to hear!
Great Video Adam! Thanks for putting this together. I learned I am not warming my cans near long enough and I'm shooting multiple coats to fast. Thanks Again!
You're welcome and glad you picked up something. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing your process.
Thanks for checking it out.
This was a great "how-to" video, thank you. I"m about to try my first lacquer paint job on a '70 Ford LTD.
Thanks and Good luck!
Cool video!! Great color choices, looks fantastic!! I love the Testors Lacquer sprays!
Thanks Chris!
Nice and simple, well explained
Thank you, I appreciate it!
Excellent tutorial Adam ❤
Thank you Shawn!
Awesome video Adam and great technique. I do something similar with enamels as well. Anyone getting into the hobby or is having trouble with painting needs to watch this. Great job buddy👍👍👌
Good to hear! Thank you Dan!
The testers lacquer is fantastic paint!!
It is a nice source for our hobby
In addition to my previous comment, I'm grateful for the 2 tone demonstrated. I'm actually going to try my first 2 tone on the 37 Ford pickup
Nice! I hope it goes well for ya! If you have any questions just ask and I'll try my best to help.
*Very cQQl~You got that hand rubbed laqure lQQk of the 40s~Thank you for showing that you don't get that nice paintwork lQQk from hosin' the paint on all in one coat trying to cover everything all in fal swoop~Very nicley done my friend :))*
Thank you sir! I appreciate it and hope it can help some.
@@sodakmodelcars *This is sure to help many modelers~And those colors go great together~Exquisit my man :))*
Thanks again!
Great video!! Really liked you showing us how to get an original shine like through 50's
Thank you! I appreciate the nice comment!
Super nice video. Thanks for the tips.😮
Thank you! Glad it was helpful!
That looks SWEET!! 😁 Nice tutorial, brother 😊✌️
Double Thanks!
Thank you sir
You're welcome!
Looks awesome, good tips.
Thank you Butch!
That look is fantastic! I think you just solved my orange peel problem. I was getting it on every paint job.
Thank you! I hope it can help you out then!
Great tutorial Adam, I decant the one coat lacquer and cut it with Mr color leveling thinner, get more builds out of the can, and it really lays down nice with the leveling thinner, 😎👍
👍 For sure airbrush is always better control and efficiency.
Great video and a great job! Turned out nice!
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Nice Job! Thanks for the lesson!
Thank you and you're welcome!
Love your homemade spray booth!
Thanks
Nice tutorial Adam that root beer brown is a nice color use it before ….thanks for sharing
Thank you sir! There really are some nice colors in the line.
@@sodakmodelcars yes indeed my local hobby lobby are always fully stocked on all these testors & there is a lot of colors to choose from 👍🏻
Excellent tutorial Adam unlucky dropping it been there done that good fix 👍👍🏆🏆
Thank you Seamus! Some loud noises came out when that happened lol
@@sodakmodelcars I could imagine lol
Great video,thanks for sharing.Donnie
Thanks for watching!
Looks awesome
Thank you!
Awesome video, thank you!
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback!
Great video!!! Thanks for sharing
Welcome and Thanks Mike!
Excellent tutorial. I have only used the Tamiya sprays and had good results. A friend had a 71 Dodge Demon 340 in a metallic brown, so I want to do a model of the demon in that brown color. But Tamiya does not make it. I am convinced now to try the testors. You are correct in the light coat method and waiting in between coats.
Thank you! And good luck with the paint job!
Great job brother 💯👏💯👏
Thank you sir!
Awesome 'how to' video!
Thank you!
Excellent video!
Thank you!
Thanks for this vid. I really needed it. I love Tamiya paints but eventually a little more variety in color choice is desired.
Right on. The Tamiya sprays are (synthetic) lacquer as well and the same principles can be applied. Although Tamiya does have a better/finer spray nozzle.
Nice color 👋😎👍
Thanks!
I wish to thank you for this video, I normally build armor kits, but have a few car kits, 2 of which are German cars from the 40s (Think German Army Staff Cars). I have always wanted to paint one of the cars as a civilian car in a Cream and Brown 2 tone color scheme. Once again thanks for the video.
Thank you and you're welcome! I glad it can help and best of results on yours!
Thanks for this tutorial, I think I now know why my paint Gators all the time, i've been Rushing It and wanting Coverage Right Outta The Gate. Makes sense to Mist Coat and Build Up. I'll try this! 🤓👍
You're welcome Jack, I hope it helps!
Incredible. Not the way I was doing it. Definitely will make changes. TY👍
Thanks! Hope it can help you!
I just found your channel, this was a great video. I would like to see a video showing off the details of your paint booth, and how you built it.
Thank you for checking it out! The booth isn't really special, just made from scraps I had at the time. Basically a plywood box with an upswing front door so I could keep the top free for a work area but vlose it while things dry.. Then I used a broken dual window fan and dissected it for fans. Unfortunately I don't have an accessible window to vent it outside but its in an unfinished utility type basement so it doesn't hurt anything and don't notice any smells outside of the basement.
Nice video man.
Thank you Zippi!
Nice color combo, at 1st I was kinda ehhh, but it turned out great
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Nice, I need to try that paint.
Thanks it's a good option.
@@sodakmodelcars Aye, I'm trying to build a red and white 57 Chevy for my brother in law and I can't get a good coat of paint on it. I have messed up two of them so bad I crunched them under my foot. I'm not kidding, It felt so good to destroy those damn models. I have a third one... I cant give up. I will find these paints and give it a go. I have no luck with my airbrushes, enamel or acrylic when it comes to painting a model car. I cant believe how tough of a time I have trying to paint one. Heres something else that's hard to believe...... I'm a professional model ship and aircraft builder!!! I build some of the largest model ships in the world and I can't paint a damn model car!!!! HA HA HA Crazy. I've been building models fulltime for a restaurant/museum for the past 28 years. I started when I was about 7 or 8, I'm 64 now. I've only built one model car in my life, Starsky and Hutch Grand Torino, it turned out ok but.... Thanks again my friend.
I have yet to fully smash one from frustration, I've managed to stick to very loud yelling! Lol I sure hope it works out for ya this time. If not there are ways to strip these kits without ruining the plastic. I don't know if it would be a good thing or bad thing to do it professionally! A good thing that once it's accepted and leaves your hands you don't have to see those things that may bug ya if ya see it over and over. Hope it works out!
🏍️ I found the grill piece that came separate quite a challenge since you don't want a square line surrounding it. Difficult sanding. Yours looks great so i bet you did the same, with less complaining than me.
Thanks! Yeah its an usual design choice but yes I glued it in and filled with spot putty.
Great job. I’d love to see how you repair the nick.
Thanks! Just wet sanded it smooth with 2000 and then repainted.
Good tutorial Adam. Nice color choices. They go together well. It came out looking real good. Now I wonder what you will do with the interior for this kit?
Thanks Rick! I appreciate it. I painted the interior a couple weeks ago. It's like a khaki and caramel color.
@@sodakmodelcars Thanks Adam. I went & checked out your update video. It will go real good with the body colors.
I have a few of these paints but have not used them yet so thanks for this tutorial video. Did you prime the parts before paint and if so what did you use? Thanks again for a great video.
At the beginning I showed the primer. Body is primed with Tamiya over repair areas, but other parts are bare plastic.
Thanks for the video. Do you use regular paper towels for polishing, or something else?
I use 100% cotton rags cut up for polishing. Terry cloths for final wipe down/dust control.
Very nice! Did you fill in the seams on the front piece?🤓👍
Yes and will just paint in a line when I do the gaskets.
Nice work.... A heat gun gets rid of orange peal if used before completely dry
Thanks
Hello SoDak Model Cars: Like the colors looks good. Wanted to ask you where did you get the turn table and the car body holder? I also like your paint booth! I'm going to build me one of those. I've been painting mine out doors on sunny days. You Know old school. Hoping to see more of you post. I'm getting back into model building. retired and need something to do so decided to do some model building again. sounded good to me 😃. Built them in my early pre-teen years then again in my late twenties, I got my dream job in my early twenties as a body man/ painter and then did some NASCAR models and classics then hurt my back and had to stop but retired now and can do some small stuff so modeling will fill my void and boredom. any way thanks for the video and those new ways to paint them to look great. Subscribing now so I can see all your post.
Thank you and welcome (back) to the hobby. I did body and paint for 20+ years, after 8 procedures and counting in 3-4yrs I had to call it quits. Missed it and picked up what I did as a kid before the career.
I have all my videos in playlists so its easy to find some more videos. Unfortunately haven't done many How tos but hope to get more out this year.
The stand comes from Tamiya about 20ish for a body holder and another one with clips. Make sure to secure the wires and halves so they don't come apart while painting. Many have learned the hard way when the halves separate. (Could use a design change)
@@sodakmodelcars Thank you! It's nice to know someone did the same job as I did. I loved doing the work on the vehicles cause to me it was like Model building just in Larger form and a lot of nut's bolts and screws LOL. I'll be looking for any new post from you and go back and view your older ones. Thanks for the info on the Tamiya stand and I'll be careful and make sure it don't separate. Talk again soon.
@Biker758210 No problem, I'm always willing to help if I can!
Great video! Where did you get the lazy susan base with the body clamps that hold the body during paint?
Thank you. It's a Tamiya painting stand, should be able to find it with a search.
Thank you!@@sodakmodelcars
I'm guessing the same can be said about airbrushing? I'm a bit paranoid about spraying too heavy. And, I think I spray from too far away. I'm so used to using rattle cans.
I guess, kind of as far as building it up with a light coat or two but generally with an airbrush its much harder to be too heavy (especially with lacquers quick dry time) and more often I have an issue with not being able to get it on wet enough to get a smooth finish.
I'm surprised you were able to wet sand so soon. I would've thought it needed more curing time. I guess lacquers are more forgiving that way. Are the Tamiya LP's the same? I haven't used them.
Yes to a point. All laquers dry pretty quick, your times may vary. Laquers just basically dry to a film and will re-wet with the next coat, so once it's dry to safely handle there's not really a benefit to wait longer if you're going to recoat.
Nice paint job...can you tell me what you used to remove the chrome plating from the wheels?
I use Yellow easy off oven cleaner. I have a small plastic cup that I put them in and spray down. Cover loosely for a bit as there is some off gassing. I just set the lid on without snapping it down. It's typically a few minutes but I like to leave atleast overnight to make sure all the varnish under the chrome is removed. Household bleach will also take the chrome off in just seconds but doesn't always do well with the varnish layer (some have it some don't and some are tougher than others). The easy off can be left in the cup and used several times over.
@@sodakmodelcars Thank you I'll try that.
Thanks for the tip just connected to you
You're welcome, hope they can help!
Nice I Like Testors Extreme Laquer. what do you use as polish?
I use the Wizards polish and sealant, but whatever name brand polish will work well.
Man that looks awesome Adam. Some how I got unsubbed to you. Now I have to go back through your videos and watch. Ron
Thanks Ron I appreciate it! Hopefully there's some more videos you'll enjoy!
I'm sure there is Adam. One I saw was the lowrider style paint job. I love that.
Good morning guys 👋🏿
Morning
Any advice please i been trying to paint a c10 1:64 two tone but eather the tape pulls the paint after I paint the second tone or the paint reacts to the other one and meesed up everything 😢
I haven't done anything with die cast.
Clean and scuff surface
Lacquer primer (Tamiya or Mr Hobby)
Lacquer paints (Testors or Tamiya)
Tamiya Tape.
If the paint still pulls to bare metal, then you need an acid etch primer. (Auto store should sell rattle cans, it will have a very strong odor/chemical smell so have proper PPE)
how do you get the testor nozzles to spray well; like Tamiya?
Nothing sprays as nice as the Tamiya nozzles. Warming cans will build some pressure and distance.
when painting engine parts is it easier leaving them on the tree or suggestions please.
That's just going to be a personal preference, I know many do but I remove all parts and clean seams before painting. Again preferences and it's very common to leave on trees for spray or brush painting.
After Testors bought Folquil and then shunt the color line down I buy other products. Cool two tone though.
Ok
Thank you. Do you Clear Coat after the Sand/Polish? cheers.
Thanks! On this one it is only the color coats, no clear.
@@sodakmodelcars Thx; I was asking in general terms. Do we paint followed by clear coat followed by a wet sand, and then wax/polish.
@southpaw5483 It's going to depend on the project. Wet sanding is used to remove something so it depends on what we are trying to remove, that dictates what happens after. I try to avoid polishing and my normal procedure is to color, clear, wet sand, clear and done. Sand/Polish dirt nibs if necessary. I do have another "custom painting with rattle can" video that shows the clear/cut/clear process.
Why spray the hood and dash brown if they just get painted over with the gold?
Best way to ensure consistent color, under colors can affect top color.
Where do you get that spray paint model stuff for man I just want to know can we my friend madden and Dawson it's me talking we want some we wanna do models can you sell them that little pc of
If you're talking about the spray paint. It can be found at most any hobby shop. Hobby Lobby is probably the most common/closest place for me to get it. Also can be purchased online.
Washi tape, is the same but cheaper. I purchase 15mm by 10 metres for $2.07 AUD, about $1.40USD delivery to my door. They have different width. Cheers Graham.
Thanks! Do you have a specific brand name for the washi tape? I've heard this before but the one I tried was not the same thing or near as good.
I always prefer a polished colour as opposed to a clearcoat. I can see the difference. A model of a newer car I'd clear like the real ones.
Same for me. Although some can see a difference some can't.
@@sodakmodelcars I know, if it looks glossy it's nice. I also worked in a body briefly and learned the difference. I have misguessed a couple of times.
Just depends on the subject and what you're trying to portray. I've done paint on builds from matte to high gloss.
@@sodakmodelcarsThat's what it comes down to. I painted an HO VIA diesel for a friend and he asked me to tone down the gloss. The gloss would look out of scale being so small. Makes sense to. I do airliners the same way. A 1/16 car would look more like an actual car.
What's your distance from the object being painted?
10" or so
Very nice paint job. If you don't want a rough flat finish, you have to build up to a full wet coat. Back about 1979, I painted a 1976 Chevrolet Chevelle in golden brown metallic. That was a full size car.
If you want a 1940s effect, you should avoid metallic paint. Original 1940s colors did not have metallic paint.
The last coat was a wet coat for the final finish. I've done 1:1 painting and custom painting for 20+yrs. I'm fully aware of actual paint.
The reference to 40s was no clear, and the colors of the darker, brown, less vibrant (instead of something like purple or orange) but also said I wanted a "bit more". 40s with a kick
@@sodakmodelcars Your experience shows. I've watched lots of folks building and painting models with air brushes. Yours is the first using just rattle cans. And, the results you are getting is just amazing.
@ByranTorok
I was under that impression also.
They have been putting metal flake in automotive paints since the '20's of the last century.
A foreign car company I believe.
I almost fell out of the chair I was sitting in.
The technology they use today, is head and shoulders above the metal flake that they were using even in the '60's. Finer flake. I believe the aim was to create a shimmer in the finish.
It's really not that noticeable on a cloudy day, where they all look solid color, but the sunshine really brings the shimmer.
Great tutorial Adam. It's tutorials like this that drive this community.
Thank you!
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Can you use testors on a 1/18 diecast car also?
I don't see any reason why you can't.
@sodakmodelcars reason why I was asking is because I use rustoleum and that paint suck when it comes to adhesion. Paint chips very easily when putting on parts or opening/closing parts.
I'm not super familiar with working with die-cast (but have done 1:1 body/paint for over 20yrs). Are you working from bare metal or painting over factory paints? Assuming bare metal...
I think the lacquers will work for you. But if not, adding an etching primer will greatly help. Idk if Rustoleom has a version of etch primer but a high quality etch primer from an auto store can nearly guarantee adhesion. It only takes a single very light, near transparent coat. But they are usually pretty strong odor so outside or well ventilated is recommended.
Nice job but i still think tamiya makes the best spraypaint for models , the caps on tamiya spray finer and if you spray there clear coat corectly it wont even need a polish.
Yeah they are nice, I make no claim to best because it's just preferences.
this vs airbrushing??
Airbrushing is always going to give you more control.
Touching the body all up with your fingers on a fresh painted surface you get the oils from your fingers all on the body good thing you didn't clear coat it
Yes, no plans to have ever clear coated it, if I was clearing it I would have done it before taking it out of the booth. But not the end of the world if you touch it, I touched it quite a bit while masking for the 2 tone. As well as many of my other custom paint jobs that get handled between colors or clear coat.
@@sodakmodelcars I hear you but you're wrong you never want to put your fingers to fresh paint I know I'm a professional car painter
When a car is in the paint booth and the base coat is on it ,you don't go in there touching it all with your fingers, and then clear coat it, you just don't
Same, over 20+yrs of professional painting and custom painting. I understand what you're trying to warn about but I touch the paint all the time when doing custom painting/masking. Not hard to wipe it down before paint. If I do a basics to painting I'll be sure to mention oils and cleaning your surfaces. But again it's not the end of the world and just in the model world most of my kit paint jobs I have handled with bare hands to do multi color paint work or vinyl tops. No issues. It doesn't immediately ruin the paint job.
Yes if I'm going from base to clear... like I said I wouldn't have taken it out of the booth and would've added the Testors clear like another coat.
Why lacquer over enamel paint?
Or acrylic
For me, I prefer them for the faster dry times, infinite recoat times, seem to layout thinner, just overall seem less volatile to work with over the enamels. Especially when doing multi colors. If you only do single colors I think enamels can be a good option as they can have a bit more shine and some more durability. Enamels go through a chemical change by oxidation which kind of creates a "shell" which is good for a final finish but can "break" if recoat times aren't perfect or get a little too heavy with next coat, etc. Lacquers just dry and can be "re-wet" at any time (kind of like dirt/mud, solvents evaporate and doesn't chemically change) And lastly the color options seem to be more my preference in rattle cans. I do use pretty much everything, (rattle can and air brush) acrylics, lacquer, automotive urethane and lastly the occasional enamels.
So is the paint actually nitrocellulose or is it false advertising?
You'd have to take that up with the manufacturer and lawyers.
Just one can of paint?
Yes, essentially the whole can for Root beer and halfish on the bronze.
Paint prices have gone through the roof after COVID. Really hurting the hobby enthusiasts ☮️
Yeah, everything hurts right now
Too bad Testors is no longer made in the U.S.A. Now made in china......
BUY AMERICAN * BUY AMERICAN
Unfortunately very little is Made in America anymore. But every can I have states "Made in USA" and could not find a source that says otherwise...Can you share your source?
What's your "American" alternative for hobby grade paint?
@@sodakmodelcars
I retired from Testors and it was shuttered and sold years ago, ask anyone who lives in Rockford Illinois.....
Sad what happened to a 100 year old company and it's employees.
Its an unfortunate way of business not all can remain where they are while they grow or die. I guess I can't track of whats original and what's been bought out. But the cans that have the Testors name say "Made in USA" so I don't know what you're refering to is now made in China.
@@sodakmodelcars
Like I said, it's owned and made in China. You should try real automotive paint. You will be surprised at the results
Idk how they can label it "Made in USA" if its made in China. There should be a law against that...
20+yrs of professional automotive painting and custom painting I have some experience with it, as well as several cars on the channel painted with it.
Kup sobie profesjonalny aerograf a nie odwalaj "maniany"
Clearly have never seen any of my other paint jobs, and thats not what this video is about.