Pex A vs Pex B - What's The Difference?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2024
- Amazon. com links :
Iwiss Pex Expansion tools: amzn.to/3avHLkr
Milwaukee Pex expansion tools: amzn.to/3Pq5H7D
Amazon.ca links :
Iwiss Pex expansion tools: amzn.to/3NYJ1tN
Milwaukee Pex Expansion tools: amzn.to/3uGbrls
In this video, Shannon shows you Pex A and Pex B plumbing pipe. He compares the differences and similarities. Includes topics such as cost, tools, repairs, flow restriction, and more. Be sure to check out our Plumbing playlist for more plumbing videos.
If you want to help support Shannon to produce more videos like this, visit www.house-improvements.com/do...
If you have questions about your home improvement projects, stop by the forum on our website, where Shannon will answer your questions in detail for free.
Website: www.house-improvements.com
Facebook: / 180657245288627
Twitter: / house_improve
Video edited by / @rugcarpet6664
Chapters:
00:00 Intro Pex A vs Pex B
00:55 Pex A vs B Comparison Chart
01:28 Pex Cost Comparison
02:10 Pipe Restriction at fittings
04:05 Pex Tools Crimp Expander
04:54 Pex A Expansion Different Tools
07:48 Pex B Fittings
08:58 Pex B Crimping Tool
09:45 Pex B Clinch Tool
11:04 Tool cost comparison A vs B
11:48 Pex Pipe Flexibility Comparison
12:19 Fixing Kinked Pex Pipe
13:03 Pex Joint Connections
13:16 Pex Pipe Cutting Tool
13:36 Zurn Pex Pipe Exception
Video © 2022 SKS Media. Videos produced by SKS Media (House-Improvements.com) are provided for informational purposes only. The information contained in the videos is intended to give general guidance to simplify DIY (do it yourself) projects. Because tools, products, materials, equipment, techniques, building codes and local regulations are constantly changing, SKS Media cannot and does not assume any responsibility or liability for the accuracy of the information contained therein. Further, SKS Media will not accept any claim for liability related to, but not limited to, omissions, errors, injury, damage or the outcome of any project. It is the responsibility of the viewer to ensure compliance with all applicable laws, rules, codes and regulations for a project. The viewer must always take proper safety precautions and exercise caution when taking on any project. If there are any questions or doubt in regards to the element of a project, please consult with a licensed professional. SKS Media conducts all matters in accordance with the laws of Saskatchewan, Canada.
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Very helpful set of information when contemplating the use of PEX-A pipe & fittings, especially if one is new to the subject, thank you Shannon!
Worth adding: What I like the most about this & every one of his instructional videos is his relaxed style, it puts one at ease & goes a long way in encouraging one to give the project a shot.
im so glad i found you, you explain and demostrate in a very understandable way. Ive done so many DIY jobs because of your channel
You always explain things so clearly and give us the true pros and cons of the matter. Thank you Shannon.
Thank you, I try my best!
Plus he is correct
Hi Shannon,
Here is tip for the PEX-B rings. Use a pliers on the ring before you crimp it so it doesn't move all over the place on you.
This is why I like your channel so much. I have seen pex put together on home improvement tv shows, but never an explanation of why it was put together that way. Or that there was an A, or B pex, an now there is Zurn throwing in a curve ball too... Lol. Thank you so much Mr. Shannon
Everything Shannon said is correct. I didn't know about Zurn but I do know Uponor and Milwaukee had the market cornered until their patent's expired. This is why I learn from Shannon about things I don't know about. Nice work, Shannon.
Thanks! This was timely and very informative. Having a new house built and they’re installing PEX, about which I was ignorant until seeing your earlier vid on fixing kinks. It’s A, which seems like the better choice.
Hello Shannon. Love The Video!! Clear and Precise As You Always Do! Thank You!
Love your videos. You lay out all pros and cons. Keep up the work.
EVERY question I had, Shannon answered in this and one other video. Except maybe manifold replacement using Pex A. But there is probably a video on that also, just haven't found it yet. Subscribed. Keep up the great work!
This was very helpful. Thanks, Shannon. Always enjoy the vids.
I used to work in construction & when Pex first came on the market & plumbers began using it, there were those that claimed the strength of the material would not hold up to climates with extreme temperature fluctuations. My guess is that there might have been some issues when it first came on the market, whether it was manufacturing problems or incorrect installation methods, regardless it seems that this product has definitely become a mainstay in the building industry.
Great video.Clear explanations. Thanks Shannon.
We’ll explained thank you I’m using pex b still a beginner but learning is my passion
Cool break down, I've never looked into the different fittings.
I went through most of my house by necessity and replaced all of the expansion fittings because they didn't hold up.
My connections are pex compression to pvc to brass, so I just bypass all that and go pex to brass.
I use push fittings though and they have been solid for me. Have to replace all the connections on my shower rough in valve.
I replaced all the copper pipe in my house using Pex B and the pinch type rings. Initially rented a crimp tool from local hardware store for a repair, then went ahead and got the pinch tool for about $30 at the time, maybe 15 years ago. I haven't had any complaints with the flow - not sure what the measurable amount would be. Anyway, the route I went is very easy for DIY. More flexibility, like with the A, would've been great while doing the various renos on the house, but got it done with minimal hassle on my part. Only trouble I had was 1 bad bag of pinch rings, which snapped when tensioning.
Nice job. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you. You cleared up some things for me.
Thanks for making and posting this video!
Great video and Awesome explanation 👍
Thanks for the first CLEAR explanation of the differences....and that isn't sarcasm, lol. Type, price, fitting style, tools, pros and cons. All the info I need to make a choice. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the clear concise explanation
This was a huge help. I’m looking at installing a recirculation line and I was having trouble deciphering the differences. This made it super clear!
Recirculating pumps do have a considerable drawback. There are fine solids in the water coming into your home. The pump is always circulating your hot water. So with that it’s wearing down the inner walls of any type of pipe you have weather it’s PEX, copper, pvc, etc.
Non circulating hot water only goes one way and only when you open the hot water handle at the faucet or shower. So it’s not wearing down your pipes as much as a recirculating pump.
Use a whole home water softener and purifier to clean the water coming into your home. This helps but there is nothing that will prevent inner pipe erosion. Ask your plumber for best application in your area and look it up online just to make sure.
Good luck.
Very good explanation, thank you!
Thank you for sharing very informative and helpful. Long time subscriber Artie 👍
Out here in South Africa we use a couple of different types too but what I have found excellent is Macniel Polycop with the Unitwist fitting i was a bit skeptical about the fittings at first but I'm pretty impressed with them over time - and they don't reduce the pipe inside diameter at all so no pressure changes or flow restrictions still prefer std copper with soldered fittings.
Excellent video! Of course, I've come to anticipate this quality from you! My new puppy got under the house and -- voila! Wipes are whistling and water pressure is down slightly. :o( I'm pretty sure before I crawl under there I'll find some puppy-teeth pin-holes. This video has given me the confidence to do the repair myself... providing of cource I can locate an expander! Thanks Shannon!
Thanks for the explanation.
Thank You, Great, Concise Video, I learned a lot, and it answered my Question, What's the difference between PEX-A and PEX-B. Thanks Again. Never done PEX yet, but as a DIY, I think I can do it. Thanks Again.
I love the crimp rings(stainless) versus the copper ring...although with the copper you can cut it off easier if you have to replace it than the crimp rings. I do carry a cordless dremel tool to cut off the stainless if needed
I’am a maintenance carpenter by trade, but this was another interesting video. Definitely learned some things. Keep it up!!
Awesome! Thank you!
And, this answers my question from your pex a video! Lol...thanks Shannon!
Awesome video! Thank you.
Some PEX B is now certified for F1960 Expansion fittings, so the flow reduction is not an issue with expanded B. Zurn is one of the Pex B makers that is certified for expansion fittings.
Zurn has been certified for 5 years now, it's kind of hard to believe that information has not been passed around much
@@emory1612 PE-RT can also be crimped or expanded. It's amazing how many people only think PEX A can be expanded.
PE-RT piping is also recyclable. It also allegedly stands up to chlorine/chloramines.
I am using the expansion rings on pex B with no problems, I think that expandable Pex B is fairly standard now, I know that I had a roll of A and B and they bore the same SDR number and same ASTM code. Isn't it true that you can use crimp on Pex A as well? Same dimensions in every respect, I am sourcing from HD using the Apollo Pex B and from Ferguson using Jones Stevens brand. No testing issues, what markings should I look for to identify expandable Pex-B ? Anyone know?
@@misterhill663862a You CAN crimp PEX A if you want as it's certified for crimp as well as expansion. Regarding B, if it has F1960 on it, it's certified for F1960 expansion fittings.
Another great video, thx again
Thank you Shannon
I saw the video where you used the heat gun. PEX A is more expensive but seems like a better pipe.
I'm saving this video like I saved the one with the heat gun repair.
Your the man.
Excellent presentation
Glad you liked it!
I hooked up a new water softener I guess it's been over 20 years ago now and I grabbed a roll of PEX and they had external compression fittings that I used. Never had one bit of trouble with them but I never see those anymore. I guess my point being that there's no restriction with the type of fittings I used.
Very helpful video! Question…..What pex is best for burying underground?
Your explanation is always the best to the point material!!!
I've used crimp rings and cinch rings for pex A for my whole house pipes update and worked fine for the last 11 years, but I assume the fittings were for pex A pipes because they look a lot different from the pex B fitting you show in the video. When I did that, a plumber told me that crimp ring is much more reliable than cinch ring, I used both, while they worked the same under 80 PSI with no problem, the cinch tool is a lot more friendly especially in tight areas.
I'm not aware of any crimp or cinch rings for Pex A
@@HouseImprovements Probably because of different building codes so different material available in different areas?
nice video, very understandable
When they built my house 25 years ago, they used the grey plastic crap. As I have been doing renovations, I've been slowly changing everything to Pex B. Not a problem except for one joint that I didn't have the compression ring close enough, but that was my fault, and a quick fix.
Now that is how you compare tools where people can understand the pros and cons... excellent.. 5star
Great data
Well done!
I bought the complete Milwaukee kit for 250 or so on ebay some years ago. I saved the search and bought it as soon as I seen it pop up. I replaced all the plumbing in my home. It was well worth it.
thats a good deal, i paid much more for my Milwaukee M18 kit
@@Pepe-dq2ib
I forgot to mention the kit was brand new in the box. They had an OBO and it didn't occur to me to try that first to see if it would automatically accept something lower.
We don't see that in our dumbo, boxy hardware stores, do we?
Stores, too often, are worthless. After all, they have to put in their idiot, bulky PRC"lifestyle" products.
Those smaller, more numerous boxy hardware stores are reaching down to that level, also.
This comically vapid retail approach.has no chance of remaining upright in the court of
reality....
Zurn tubing can be used with either cold expansion or with crimps. Conforming to ASTM F1960 is what allows this type B tube to be expanded, since the expansion method is what F1960 describes. A vs B only describes how the tube is extruded, not the connection method.
Really hard to believe how good pex a expansion works and fits I am old fashion and like the way copper looks and feels when put together old ways are hard to break but will move to better technology thanks
I like your loosely scripted explanations better than the slick DIY instructions that rush through and miss some of the details you include.
thank you , sir
I personally prefer type b, easy to run and cinch the rings. Never an issue with leaks.
Pex A is even easier to run and not mess up a connection. I dont have stats or real data, but i would guess 99/100 Pex connections that aren't done properly are B style crimp/cinch compared to Expansion.
@@Pepe-dq2ib yea I'm sure it's a personal preference
Pex a can be over expanded and this is why I don't give a fawk
PEX b seems to be easier to find at Home Depot and Lowes, at least they have more quantity of it
The constriction of B is no joke. Replaced all the copper in our house last year and there was a noticeable difference. But, it's slick to install put in almost 300ft of line and not so much as a drip. Great video!
Just curious if you noticed any pressure difference if you used 1/2" . I thought if you decreased the diameter you increased the pressure. Your thoughts please.
@@dirkhagar2399 In a home system the pressure stays the same, in a linear flow system decreasing the diameter might increase pressure, like in running water through a dam. At home with all the taps turned off, the 1/2" pipes are at the same psi as the 1" pipes The larger the pipe the more flow it can handle without a noticeable drop in pressure, beyond that flow the psi will drop and flow will drop. More restriction just can't replace the water as fast to keep up. There are good videos on required diameter of plumbing for a given number of fixtures running off of the line.
I question the restriction claim.
Every fixture in your house has a water saver restricter in it anyway.
Maybe up size going to your outside spigots will help there?
The restrictors at the fixtures have been designed to meet assumptions about the volume of water that would have to pass through that restrictor. There could be a dozen or more connections between your pressure reducing valve and the end fixture, and each of these will very definitely act like a low-value flow restrictor and, in total, cause an exagerated restriction effect at the fixture.
I know someone who had their house re-piped a decade ago by a sloppy contractor who used Zurn PEX B with Uponor PEX A rings and Uponor expansion fittings. It's been 10 years and no leaks. This was before Zurn PEX B was certified for F1960 expansion fittings. No leaks. I got this feeling that expansion fittings work on all PEX B but no empirical data to back that up.
there is a video that shows that REGULAR Pex A and Pex B transitions can be made with common Pex A and Pex B fittings... though the manufacturer would not warranty that installation. Meaning, if you already have Pex B in your house, and you want to replace some of that line with Pex A, you can use regular transition fittings but would void any warranty. There are official transition fittings but those are extremely pricey.
A couple of things that where not mentioned was PEX B you will need to recalibrate those crimping tools. The rings are forced closed and the force to do that is also applied to the tool. So the tool is gradually closing less and less when doing large jobs. There is a measuring tool with PEX B. It measures the crimped ring diameter after you crimp it with the tool. It’s called a “go no go” gauge. This gauge will tell you if your crimping tool needs to be recalibrated.
PEX A fittings are not to be used with PEX B fittings.
PEX A fittings have a barbed connection which grabs the inner wall of the pipe as it shrinks back down to its original diameter. It acts like a fishing hook.
PEX B has a ribbed connection that only works with crimped rings.
thank you, very clear explanation
This isn't as much of a concern with the stainless cinch clamps.
According to someone else here, interchanging methods and fittings is more common now.
At least one mfr., concerning Pex B, indicates that their tools don't need calibration.
Nonetheless, thank you for your expertise here--your methods may prove better, still: We're getting closer to the truth.
@@GeoffreyMorrison-xh2eo
We shouldn’t rely on what “someone else here” says.
This is a copy and past from the manufacture of the crimping tool.
Go/No-Go Gauge
1. Slide the correct slot on the gauge around the crimped ring.
2. If the ring does not fit into the "Go" slot at all, but fits into the "No-Go" slot, then the crimp is not correct. Remove the incorrectly crimped ring from the PEX pipe, adjust the crimping force on the tool and repeat the crimping process.
3. If the ring slides into the slot and stops in the "Go" range at least at one point, then the crimp is good. The ring will not fit the go range all the way around it.
Please check every ring with the Go/No-Go Gauge after crimping to ensure a proper connection.
Along with a diagram of the tool:
How to adjust the crimp diameter:
All Apollo PEX Tools are pre-
Adjustment Dial calibrated for 10,000 crimps. After repeated use, the crimp tool may need to be adjusted to produce a proper crimp result.
1. Note the number that the adjustment dial is currently set at.
2. Pop off the C-Clip that is aligned with the adjustment dial with a small tool, such as a flathead screwdriver.
3. Slide the hexagonal adjustment dial head out approximately 1/4".
4. Rotate the back pin until the line on the adjustment dial head points to the next highest number on the tool body.
5. Push the adjustment dial head back into position and return the C-Clip to its original position.
We should only pass on information from the manufacture, not opinion. That is the only truth.
Thanks
Great learning video. I want to use Pex for replacement plumbing in my RV. Type B seems easy, but I thinking of going with type A. I like the line flexibility and less joint restriction. Does extremely hot water weaken type A joints at the hot water heater? I will use brass connectors instead of plastic if they have for type A.
I have never seen it weakened with heat at all.
Have been installing PEX-A since day one. Always used Pex-A with Expension rings. Never any issues or "failure of materials." As far as tools go - always use power expender tool. Forget manual expenders
Love pex. Hate the look of exposed pex.
I know you can buy copper "stub outs" to have metal in exposed areas where it can be seen and banged around.
But what about radiant systems? Is there a way to connect cast iron rads with oxygen barrier pex without it looking like a stupid, orange, temporary fix?
I know some people will use black iron pipe from the radiator to below the floor where they transition to pex (if accessible) but is there an easier way or one that still looks good? A decorative pex sleeve?? Shrink tubing over pex? Designer metallic pex?
Excellent video Shannon! This went a long way in helping me determine what type of Pex I am dealing with on this project. Overall, I believe this is 3/4" Pex A but there is also a brass "shark bite" push to fit ball valve in the line. This has me wondering if it is perhaps the newer type of Pex B that you mentioned that uses Pex A type fittings. The pipe itself has some red writing on it, but it is unreadable so no help determining pipe type. So finally, my question: Can I use Shark Bite "push to fit" fittings on Pex A????? Thanks again for the great Video!
Yes they work on all Pex.
I re-plumbed my house with Pex-A. Spend the money and buy the Milwaukee expansion tool, the manual one is too much of a hassle. One disadvantage to Pex A, your fittings can't much closer than about 3". The problem... when you put the expansion tool in the pipe on the second fitting, if too close to the first, it will jam and freeze inside the first fitting. I found out the hard way.
That 3" minimum between fittings in Pex-A can be a big problem in some tight spots.
A nice tech show for people 🎉🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤❤
My pex b is 3 inches away from lining up where I need it to. Is a slight bend okay?
Expandable PEX B … I have learned something today.
Zurn only at this point
So if Im running pex b in thru my concrete slab to supply house can I just bend it up to a curved 90° before it crimps and is useless..I bought a 90 brass fitting to bring it up but would rather curve it and not worry about the fitting leaking under the ground
Nice video, I have a question about the Zern pex B. Can it be used for both styles of connections or just the shrink "memory" style? I have some tubing that I don't have the labels for, so it could be Zern, so now i'm worried that my regular pex b connections won't work with it. Thanks
I'm sorry but I do not know for sure, I would suspect it can't use both fitting styles
@@HouseImprovements Zurn PEX is compatible with both crimp and expansion connections
I remember reading that one was better for burial than the other,or maybe pex c ? Also your experience with shark bite fittings and do they work on either. I have a buddy and thats all he uses with great success. They are costly. Also fishing pipe through walls or in tight spaces where a coil of pipe vs a solid length may be a factor. And can one kind of pipe be married to the other?Of course this would need a specific fitting. Cheers
Both Pex A & B can be buried but not Pex C. Pex B is generally preferred however.
Push connect fittings (Sharkbite is one brand) work excellent with Pex and copper.
I prefer Pex A but fishing in some instances can be more work than Pex B ,but I still use Pex A .
Yes Pex A and Pex B can be joint The easiest way is with a push connect fitting.
I have a ton of plumbing related videos and many with info on Pex and fittingsth-cam.com/video/mj9LgvT8Anc/w-d-xo.html
There are PEX B pipes other than Zurn that are rated for F1960 expansion fittings. Sioux Chief for example.
You could be correct , I have never heard of them
Good info on application, Pex A is only rated to 200psi and will freeze crack. Pex B is rated at 500psi and resistant to freeze crack. Huge difference
Either of these are fine for residential use and are both used in most commercial as well. Most domestic water systems are 50 PSI or less. Anything in the right situation can burst with freezing ,both of these are resistant to freezing and usually better than copper in possible freezing situations.
Thanks, I will be making my first install using Pex. Replacing copper in a small town that has very corrosive water. House is 12 years old and the copper has corroded through. Some has been replaced by a plumber using what I'm guessing is Pex. Black, semi flexy with what looks like SS crimp sleeves. The town recommends that children not drink the water. The appliances don't last very long either.
Maybe add a whole house water filter while your at it.
@@guillermocuevas1306 Best would be to move to the city where water is treated to meet Federal standards. I guess they looked into a filtration system. By the time they could get one that took all the contaminates down to Federal standards it was really expensive. Not up to me.
Great info
I’ve used cinch clamps on PEX A pipe.
Is that a catastrophic failure?
Pex A is not made to work that way, I would be very nervous about those connections
Pex A is a lot more flexible, fittings are less restricted, and I trust the connection a lot better, and it will expand when frozen and not burst but the fittings will
Both pex A and pex B allow expansion fittings. Zurn has had the pex B tubing, fittings and cold expansion fittings since years. Look at their website. Also, Zurn has heads for Milwaukee’s propex tool. Big difference is pex A only has 10 year warranty and pex B has 25 year warranty.
Not sure about all Pex A but here is the warranty for Uponor Pex A and it says you are wrong.www.uponor.com/getmedia/306c9ea0-d07f-4476-b089-b039c8eb999b/ca-warranty.pdf?sitename=Canada
@@HouseImprovements Sioux Chief and Zurn both certify their B for expansion. Viega does not, possibly not yet.
Consider The zurn Or Sioux chief power pex b. I am converting to cold expansion pex b for plumbing business.
Just to clear up, some things. Reducing flow causes pressure to rise at the end of the reduction, not entirely a bad thing especially at the end of the lines. Second is that you dont want too much pressure in your plumbing, its recommended to install a pressure regulator on your water heater to below 50 psi. Pex has long been used in Europe for a long time before it came to the American continent.
Thanks god bless
Zurn Pex B installs the same way as Pex A so you don't have the restrictions you are talking about. It also (allegedly) doesn't have the same problem with chlorine that Pex A does. Can you speak to this please?
Than you, I didn't know the difference.
My plumber used pex A on myself in renovations and used the pex B fittings when he connect a pex A line to a pex B line. Our used the pex A fittings everywhere else. Are there risks where he used the pex B fittings on Pex A? The inspector didn't say anything.
I installed the toilet and used a shark bite fitting. It seems good. Should it be okay?
There is a youtube video that explains how to transition from A to B or vice versa.... the plumber (I forget his name but is very popular) did not experience any negative consequences with the exception of a voided manufacturers warranty.... and let's face it, you would have an easier time trying to pull your own teeth than get a manufacturer to cover a Pex warranty claim. With that being said, that same plumber showed some official Pex transition fittings but they were around $20 each vs the $3-5 for the regular ones.....
Appreciate your description of the two types of pipes and systems. Now I'm assuming both connection systems have a similar burst strength.
I'm still old school using copper where the connection is a solid sweated connection, and I'm a little hesitant to move to a compression type fitting.
I Believe that the pipe will burst before I have ever seen any info on a fitting that is properly installed bursting or flying off. I think most Pex A and Pex B are good to a little over 400lbs at 20C (73F)
NEVER ASSUME ANYTHING IN LIFE
Is there a manifold for pex A
Hi Shannon, if you’re suggesting oversizing pex B to (from 1/2” to 3/4”) , won’t you still have to reduce to 3/8” at the stop valves? Stop valves are normally 1/2-3/8, unless there are 3/4-3/8, which I have not seen. Thanks.
Termination at the fixtures I meant,obviously (under kitchen sink,vanity,toilet,etc).
@@lorenzocriscuolo7869 You are correct. One would have to reduce to 1/2-in where the pipe terminates before attaching to the supply valve.
However, you won't have the multiple restriction points in your main line if you run 3/4-in. The only restriction comes at the supply valve, which reducing to 3/8-in is going to cause regardless of size of your lines.
Actuality, with 1/2-in fittings constricting to roughly the equivalent of 3/8-in you're basically reducing to directly from 3/4-in to 3/8-in.
Yes you are correct.
MagiusUSA has the answer for you.
those sizes are common here in the USA.
Perhaps this has already been covered, but can you interchange fro PEXB to PEXA. Do they make fittings for that? Like a PEXB to PEXA coupling, elbow, etc?
Not sure they make anything but a Push fit fitting would do it.
I'd recommend making a mechanical joint with a FIP and MIP to make the transition. FIP pex A and MIP pex B or vice versa
I just left this comment for another similar question, so here goes:
There is a youtube video that explains how to transition from A to B or vice versa.... the plumber (I forget his name but is very popular) did not experience any negative consequences with the exception of a voided manufacturers warranty.... and let's face it, you would have an easier time trying to pull your own teeth than get a manufacturer to cover a Pex warranty claim. With that being said, that same plumber showed some official Pex transition fittings but they were around $20 each vs the $3-5 for the regular ones.....
The biggest drawback to PEX A is it is more susceptible to freeze damage, I have repaired many PEX A freeze ruptures, I have never seen this in frozen houses with PEX B or C. Also Currently Zurn PEX B Supports F1960 Expansion connection.
I can't say I have any experience with frozen pipes so i can't say one way or the other.
that is the opposite! Pex A has a higher freezing threshold than Pex B (meaning, pex b piping will freeze before pex a)
@@billsmith9249 your comment implies that PEX A insulate better, Im saying from actual experience, that in a hard freeze PEX A is more prone to rupture, the elasticity of PEX A is to its detriment. when you have actual real world evidence, we can talk. I do have real world evidence of Wirsbo PEX A ruptured from freezing, it blows a bubble on the side and bursts, I have seen this in several frozen homes, and have seen many more frozen homes with PEX B & C and have yet to see a rupture, split fittings, yes, piping, no. PEX A pipe will burst before the fitting will crack, B&C are the opposite. Again Real World Experience here.
GREAT JOB !!! IF MONEY WAS NOT an ISSUE. WHAT WOULD YOU USE IN YOUR HOME ? THANKS
PexA
@@HouseImprovements 🙏🙏🙏
Can you comment on the stainless steel crimps? It requires a separate tool from what I have seen but when would you use them vs those steel ones you used?
Some prefer the SS since they will not develop rust like the steel will usually over time
@@HouseImprovements okay, great. Thanks. Love the videos btw.
If using pex B with shark bite fittings, would that be as restrictive for water pressure as your fittings?
that would be less restrictive than the standard PexB fitting I showed here.
Zurn Pex B uses the same expansion type tool and fittings for installation.
Why not have a compression joint with a olive ring, like we have in England?
fitting restriction not an issue, only fixture where size is an issue is the shower, you could pipe a house with 3/8 pex and not see any difference in flow, first pex on the market was type A , it required a very expensive expansion tool for installation with the shrink rings.
Hi, I don't have the expansion tool but i have Pex A. Can I use the ring and crimping tool on Pex A? Thanks
No, you can not
Thank you for your reply. So even if I use a pex B fitting into a pex A pipe and crimping it with a cooper ring it's no good?
Shannon: Greetings from Regina. Can you share the manufacture's name/make/model of the expansion tool shown at 6:02? If you don't respond until sometime after 8pm, surely you were watching the game /=S=/
That was a good win to open the season!
here is the tool.amzn.to/3QeorYN
Just one thing to add. If you want to undo PEX A connection don't use knife to cut the pipe off the fitting. You can leave a scratch on it that is prone to leaks. Use construction fan instead. Wait until you pipe turn clear and use pliers to get the pipe off the fitting.
Cut off the expansion ring and then **score** the PEX A pipe (not cutting through it). The heat gun will then allow slipping the pipe off the fitting without damaging the fitting.
Going with Pex A. I trust the connection more.
any comments on expandable PEX B that is now available please
I have not used it but I'm sure it is fine.
Thanks, Shannon.
Pex, eh! 👍🏻
Which is better to use underground for longevity?
either one is fine really. If you use PexB make sure to use clamps made for underground use.
you can do both pex a and pex b with expander tools
There are newer Pex Bs now that can be expanded but not all can be.
Other pex experts say that Zurn B is superior in every way to both Upanor A and the pex b compression fitting, do you concur with Zurn being the superior product?
I myself have never seen Zurn , let alone used it so i can't say .
What if I can't identify my pex? Should I take a piece into a supplyhouse to identify for me? If I suspect pex, a pex A fitting would not slide into the pipe, right?
If you can see existing fittings and how they are fastened that should tell you easy enough but other wise Pex A fitting should not slide into either Pex A or Pex B without expanding the pipe A Pex B fitting will slide into either pipe .
Thanks! Took a peak in attic and couldn't see much but did see Zurn pex marking. This means it's expansion rated right?