This is awesome. I noticed that cable always hanging off, but thought I'd have to buy an expensive "cheap" plastic part to fix it, and figured I could go without cruise control for a while. Just walked out after watching the video, stuck some duct tape on the the nob, and took the car for a test drive. Works!!! Love a good easy fix. Thanks.
Thank you! I’m a 68 yr old female and I do a lot of my own minor type repairs and stuff on my vehicle. This is exactly what I needed to know to check why my CC won’t engage. The dash light comes on......but won’t engage. These type of videos have saved me TONS of money! I also like to educate myself so if I have to take it in I can talk “mechanic lingo” and they won’t try to pull a fast one on me! LOL thanks again
My cruise control didn't work, so I watched this video and discovered that some mechanic had used 2 plastic zip ties on the cruise control linkage. I snipped them off and added the duct tape. Voila! I got my cruise back! Thank you so much!
Very helpful. For the longest time I couldn't for the life of me figure out why my cruise wouldn't work... The indicator light would pop on, but never any function. Works flawlessly now.
Lou, Your simple fix is spot on. The nut holding tape trick something I use often when building cars. The simple fix is often the easiest. K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Stupid. You save me a $25 and a trip to the store. Thanks.
this video might save me, i have a runaway explorer and now im going to disconnect the cruise control cable and the module, i just needed to know where it was.
Almost 21,000 views as of Feb 13th 2019. Don't forget to check out the recall on this. If your Escape was issued a defective linkage, it's a free dealership repair.
It's best to have this repaired at the dealership for free, if your model is covered under the recall. This workaround is more of a temporary fix, if you're in a pinch. Stay safe!
I get the bolts to stay in the socket by using electrician's tape inside the socket (glue side up). It holds the bolt, and comes out when the bolt is tight.
Just had the cruise control linkage end get stuck on me about 4 hours ago. Scared the shit out of me... Luckily wasnt with my son and knew how to get the car safely to a stop. Gotta take it to ford tomorrow to get the engine cover modified so it no longer sticks. scary situation.
Not sure if I'm understanding the question clearly. If the plastic connector is still good, it should click onto the throttle. If the linkage disconnects elsewhere, you gotta' follow it back to the break. Does that help?
Hey Lou.. wanted to get your input on a couple of things. I've got a grinding noise on my front drivers side. it's very pronounced with each revolution of the tire. it's LESSENS when I accelerate and when I brake. I'm assuming it's my bearings. I want to replace the the whole Bearing Hub. A mechanics shop wants to charge me $400 a tire. can't do that so that's why I've got to try to do this myself. Q. 1 - Whats your ideas or experience with this if any? Q. 2 - Where under the car do I use my floor jack? and Where do I position my Jack Stands? would appreciate your response bud...looking to begin work this Friday 9/11
+Steve Burden I just recently replaced my front drivers side bearings. 1 - Enough to know what NOT to do because I just recently did it! Haha. 2- Floor jack and jack stands can go under the reinforced part of the forward frame rail. Jack points on the Control Arms are listed as good as well but i use those for secondary support points if needed to control the free weight of the front assembly while the tire is off. I shot a bunch of video for several procedures including a portion of the bearings fiasco i ended up in!!! Like everything else on our models I'm guessing your bearings are Pressed Bearings like mine. Pressed being the KEY word, the old bearings must be pressed out and the new ones back in with a HYDRAULIC PRESS. If you attempt to use rental kits like I did, you're likely to end up ripping the bearing to shit with no way to get the bearing sleeve out or a way to get a new bearing in. If you have access to a 2nd vehicle, this is a procedure that will benefit from that. I didn't have a 2nd car and got stranded at my GF's house where i sometimes work on my car. Luckily, I have a friend who had recommended a mobile mechanic that I remembered about and called my buddy to help me get in contact with that dude. Basically, I ended paying someone to drive my mess of a removed hub/wheel assembly to a shop with a hydraulic press. I'll likely post some video that i've been meaning to cut together with some related footage. Have you already started? Where are you on this now? Best advice from my journey, find a reasonable shop with a press that does this specifically. Get 2 quotes... 1 for the complete job (you might want to get your own bearing of choice and bring it to them to help cut cost and to better ensure the quality you are interested in). Also get a quote for the work if you bring in the removed front wheel assembly and new bearing. There's a bit more and i'm open to more questions but that's the essentials of what i learned. If you already have access to a hydraulic press you're good. Haha! I'm interested in hearing more about it, Later!
+Steve Burden this is a good ref video for jack points - the only thing iffy for me is the "cradle" he mentions at 0:17. That aside, I've used the other recommended jack points. Something like a 2x6 wood block on the jack end can help avoid unnecessary dents in the frame. I know that's fairly standard but in the interest of efficiency... Weight distribution-wise a lift has the advantage of distributing weight throughout, a jack is applying more pressure in a smaller area... that includes a complementary margin of error. th-cam.com/video/YeFfNgXlrY4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Lou, will keep it in mind. It turns out that my problem was NOT a Bearing... I don't know how it happened, but I was driving around with loose lug nuts. I can't remember the last time I messed with the tires, even wondered if they were tampered with by a stranger.. But when I went to remove the tire, the nuts were so loose..that I could turn them. That was scary cause I could have lost a tire while driving. Tightened the nuts and noise disappeared. I wound up just replacing my Rotors and Pads. I did get a quote for replacing my bearings (front and left).. One place wanted $900 ... I about lost it. Seen few videos on the Bearing replacement, and it looks like a pain in the arse. Don't have the tools and I doubt I will be doing that. So far I don't have to...at least I haven't in the 9 years I've had this Tribute. Jack Stands : funny, that's where I placed them. I jacked it on the portion of the arm. From the front of the vehicle. Jacked it on a 2" x 6" board which gave the Jack more height (which was needed) ...will opt for a better hydraulic Jack in the future. Broke a lug Stud before doing the brakes. Seems all that friction from a loose Rotor just about seized a Stud. Replacing the Stud was a challenge. The new Stud is not completely seated in...just and 1/8 th of an inch... Will have that corrected at some future time...seems to be working. Rotor is tight, Wheel also. Pumped up the brakes and its fine. It was all a learning experience... The Pads didn't need replacing. They were HALF worn. Steve 🍦
Hey Steve, glad it all worked out safely. That's pretty sketchy man, i'd be leary after that! Chances are, bearings will be in your Tribute's future. $900 sounds like a total burn. I'm pretty certain you could tear it down enough to get your assembly in to a shop with a press. Prices I've read for that service range from $20 - $80... could probably get a combo price if you took in both. Bearings they say should be done in pairs. I did the first as a solo experiment and learned a lot. Bearings can be bought for various prices and you'd have to wade through all the debates on brand/quality... lots of repackaged stuff in brand boxes that are made in China or Mexico. It's not cheap but when it's time, it's time, or worse things can happen. It's possible you could get both done for $100 on the low end to $300. There's some bolts that are tough but it's doable and if you don't have a torque wrench like i didn't, it's all about free tool rentals at your local auto parts place. Very important to torque it back to spec when you're done for obvious safety reasons. I'm thinking about replacing my upstream o2 sensors, seems like the front space is a bit cramped, hoping to get at the firewall side more easily. I started getting cylinder 1 errors but read what i guessed, which was that it might be a vacuum leak or other problem. Spent a few hours tuning up the old mobile office today and it's running good. It looks like it's also possibly time for the next batch of components related to the charcoal purge system, more on that later perhaps. PEACE!
This is awesome. I noticed that cable always hanging off, but thought I'd have to buy an expensive "cheap" plastic part to fix it, and figured I could go without cruise control for a while. Just walked out after watching the video, stuck some duct tape on the the nob, and took the car for a test drive. Works!!! Love a good easy fix. Thanks.
Petit Suisse cool! Check for the recall!
Thank you! I’m a 68 yr old female and I do a lot of my own minor type repairs and stuff on my vehicle. This is exactly what I needed to know to check why my CC won’t engage. The dash light comes on......but won’t engage. These type of videos have saved me TONS of money! I also like to educate myself so if I have to take it in I can talk “mechanic lingo” and they won’t try to pull a fast one on me! LOL thanks again
My cruise control didn't work, so I watched this video and discovered that some mechanic had used 2 plastic zip ties on the cruise control linkage. I snipped them off and added the duct tape. Voila! I got my cruise back! Thank you so much!
Very helpful. For the longest time I couldn't for the life of me figure out why my cruise wouldn't work... The indicator light would pop on, but never any function. Works flawlessly now.
Casual Connor :)
I wish I saw this video first. I tried self-diagnostics, fuses, etc and in the end it was exactly as described here. Cruise works great now, thanks!
I'm happy to have helped. If you wish to repay, please help raise awareness about Alzheimer's Disease/Dementia. Thank you.
my cruise control did the same thing. after watching this video i checked mine and of course same problem lol. thanks for this video!
Lou,
Your simple fix is spot on. The nut holding tape trick something I use often when building cars. The simple fix is often the easiest. K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Stupid. You save me a $25 and a trip to the store. Thanks.
Blu take is another option - especially for holding screws onto end of a screw driver to get into difficult spots.
HA! I just checked my linkage and it had fallen off. 1/4 inch strip of electrical tape later and it works! Thank you!
chonn3 :)
Worked a treat. Nice easy fix for a change!
Thanks! Had the same thing happen on my 03!
this video might save me, i have a runaway explorer and now im going to disconnect the cruise control cable and the module, i just needed to know where it was.
Almost 21,000 views as of Feb 13th 2019. Don't forget to check out the recall on this. If your Escape was issued a defective linkage, it's a free dealership repair.
It's best to have this repaired at the dealership for free, if your model is covered under the recall. This workaround is more of a temporary fix, if you're in a pinch. Stay safe!
I get the bolts to stay in the socket by using electrician's tape inside the socket (glue side up). It holds the bolt, and comes out when the bolt is tight.
Worked for me!!
Thanks dude 👍👍
You are welcome, glad to have helped!
Just had the cruise control linkage end get stuck on me about 4 hours ago. Scared the shit out of me... Luckily wasnt with my son and knew how to get the car safely to a stop. Gotta take it to ford tomorrow to get the engine cover modified so it no longer sticks. scary situation.
How does a good linkage unhook? Help needed PLEASE
Not sure if I'm understanding the question clearly. If the plastic connector is still good, it should click onto the throttle. If the linkage disconnects elsewhere, you gotta' follow it back to the break. Does that help?
Lou Radon Yes Sir that helped. Thank you
Glad to help.
Hey Lou..
wanted to get your input on a couple of things.
I've got a grinding noise on my front drivers side. it's very pronounced with each revolution of the tire. it's LESSENS when I accelerate and when I brake. I'm assuming it's my bearings.
I want to replace the the whole Bearing Hub. A mechanics shop wants to charge me $400 a tire. can't do that so that's why I've got to try to do this myself.
Q. 1 - Whats your ideas or experience with this if any?
Q. 2 - Where under the car do I use my floor jack? and Where do I position my Jack Stands?
would appreciate your response bud...looking to begin work this Friday 9/11
+Steve Burden I just recently replaced my front drivers side bearings.
1 - Enough to know what NOT to do because I just recently did it! Haha.
2- Floor jack and jack stands can go under the reinforced part of the forward frame rail.
Jack points on the Control Arms are listed as good as well but i use those for secondary support points if needed to control the free weight of the front assembly while the tire is off. I shot a bunch of video for several procedures including a portion of the bearings fiasco i ended up in!!!
Like everything else on our models I'm guessing your bearings are Pressed Bearings like mine. Pressed being the KEY word, the old bearings must be pressed out and the new ones back in with a HYDRAULIC PRESS. If you attempt to use rental kits like I did, you're likely to end up ripping the bearing to shit with no way to get the bearing sleeve out or a way to get a new bearing in. If you have access to a 2nd vehicle, this is a procedure that will benefit from that. I didn't have a 2nd car and got stranded at my GF's house where i sometimes work on my car. Luckily, I have a friend who had recommended a mobile mechanic that I remembered about and called my buddy to help me get in contact with that dude. Basically, I ended paying someone to drive my mess of a removed hub/wheel assembly to a shop with a hydraulic press.
I'll likely post some video that i've been meaning to cut together with some related footage. Have you already started? Where are you on this now?
Best advice from my journey, find a reasonable shop with a press that does this specifically. Get 2 quotes... 1 for the complete job (you might want to get your own bearing of choice and bring it to them to help cut cost and to better ensure the quality you are interested in). Also get a quote for the work if you bring in the removed front wheel assembly and new bearing. There's a bit more and i'm open to more questions but that's the essentials of what i learned.
If you already have access to a hydraulic press you're good. Haha!
I'm interested in hearing more about it,
Later!
+Steve Burden this is a good ref video for jack points - the only thing iffy for me is the "cradle" he mentions at 0:17. That aside, I've used the other recommended jack points. Something like a 2x6 wood block on the jack end can help avoid unnecessary dents in the frame. I know that's fairly standard but in the interest of efficiency... Weight distribution-wise a lift has the advantage of distributing weight throughout, a jack is applying more pressure in a smaller area... that includes a complementary margin of error.
th-cam.com/video/YeFfNgXlrY4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Lou, will keep it in mind. It turns out that my problem was NOT a Bearing...
I don't know how it happened, but I was driving around with loose lug nuts. I can't remember the last time I messed with the tires, even wondered if they were tampered with by a stranger..
But when I went to remove the tire, the nuts were so loose..that I could turn them.
That was scary cause I could have lost a tire while driving.
Tightened the nuts and noise disappeared.
I wound up just replacing my Rotors and Pads.
I did get a quote for replacing my bearings (front and left)..
One place wanted $900 ...
I about lost it.
Seen few videos on the Bearing replacement, and it looks like a pain in the arse.
Don't have the tools and I doubt I will be doing that.
So far I don't have to...at least I haven't in the 9 years I've had this Tribute.
Jack Stands : funny, that's where I placed them.
I jacked it on the portion of the arm. From the front of the vehicle. Jacked it on a 2" x 6" board which gave the Jack more height (which was needed) ...will opt for a better hydraulic Jack in the future.
Broke a lug Stud before doing the brakes. Seems all that friction from a loose Rotor just about seized a Stud.
Replacing the Stud was a challenge. The new Stud is not completely seated in...just and 1/8 th of an inch...
Will have that corrected at some future time...seems to be working.
Rotor is tight, Wheel also.
Pumped up the brakes and its fine.
It was all a learning experience...
The Pads didn't need replacing. They were HALF worn.
Steve
🍦
Hey Steve, glad it all worked out safely. That's pretty sketchy man, i'd be leary after that! Chances are, bearings will be in your Tribute's future. $900 sounds like a total burn. I'm pretty certain you could tear it down enough to get your assembly in to a shop with a press. Prices I've read for that service range from $20 - $80... could probably get a combo price if you took in both. Bearings they say should be done in pairs. I did the first as a solo experiment and learned a lot. Bearings can be bought for various prices and you'd have to wade through all the debates on brand/quality... lots of repackaged stuff in brand boxes that are made in China or Mexico. It's not cheap but when it's time, it's time, or worse things can happen. It's possible you could get both done for $100 on the low end to $300. There's some bolts that are tough but it's doable and if you don't have a torque wrench like i didn't, it's all about free tool rentals at your local auto parts place. Very important to torque it back to spec when you're done for obvious safety reasons.
I'm thinking about replacing my upstream o2 sensors, seems like the front space is a bit cramped, hoping to get at the firewall side more easily.
I started getting cylinder 1 errors but read what i guessed, which was that it might be a vacuum leak or other problem. Spent a few hours tuning up the old mobile office today and it's running good.
It looks like it's also possibly time for the next batch of components related to the charcoal purge system, more on that later perhaps.
PEACE!