Restoring a Rusty Bison Six Jaw Lathe Chuck
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- Restoring a Rusty Bison Six Jaw Lathe Chuck
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LOVE to see old, rusty 'junk' made NEW again. Machines truly are eternal. Thanks Keith for a little bit of permanence in my world. CHEERS!
A little late to watch this, but timely in a way. Yesterday I watched Ca Lem on his TH-cam channel make a 6 jaw scroll chuck ... from scratch! If viewers of this channel haven't seen Ca Lem's channel, it is definitely worth a look. A very gifted and humble self-taught young man.
Love Ca Lem’s stuff. Def agree
Concur, that young guy is sharp!!
Ca Lem is a very talented guy.
At first I was thinking Ca Lem was ToT’s alter ego’s channel. It was the Schaublin and just hands that threw me off I think.
I don't have a metal lathe but I have multiple wood lathes. I have several three jaw chucks and am amazed at how they work. When I started out learning (on my own) how to turn I had a friend show me how to make a wooden chuck that used hose clamps for tightening. It worked pretty good. When I was able to purchase my first chuck I was thrilled. Twenty plus years I still have my wood chuck on a shelf. I love turning wood and plastic into many fun things. I have a dream of getting a small bench metal lathe and learn to make some of my own metal parts for pens, etc. Thanks for sharing. I enjoy watching your videos. In Feb of this year I had surgery on a finger whose tendon was stuck. It took a long time but finally about 99% normal. Have a great Thanksgiving and Christmas season. We all have so much to be thankful for.
One advantage of a six-jaw is that you may pull two opposed front jaws to grasp rectangular and square stock.
Kieth channeling his inner Bob Ross "happy trees" as he puts this chuck back together. Love it.
I admire your taking the time to clean your tools and keeping them organized. Just one of my OCD things
Oh my gosh! Even Keith has to occasionally back up, rethink, and persuade parts to behave themselves. Maybe I'm not as inept as I thought. Bravo! 😉 👍🤝
I've observed that many times about Keith. He is a great teacher and model.
Of course, who among us would not be a better person if we could edit how we present ourselves to the world?
I'll never run a metal lathe but I never watch one of Keith's videos without learning something of value.
Couple of notes. A Bison chuck usually has threaded holes on its backplate. When you screw bolt in there they will press the backplate off. And you don’t need to use chisel on your chuck risking to damage it.
When the backplate is off you put your screws back in (at least half of the way) an bump the whole assembly against the table. The scroll will fall off and no need to bump it with a hammer.
Otherwise a great job as usual. I doubt that you did any damage to the chuck. The comment is mostly for others who will be servicing their chucks.
This guy is not a machinist!
I have one of these as well. And it's time for it to be cleaned. Thanks for the info. I had a foggy memory that these might have holes to use jacking screws, but I wasn't sure. Thanks for the reminder!!!!
Neither am I. It doesn’t really matter if you’re love this kind of stuff
Thank you.
@@deedeeindustrialsuperprecision Keith’s bio says his original interest was woodworking. Restoring vintage machinery does not require a high level of machinist skills. His machinist skills came much later.
I love videos like this. I can remember sitting in my grandfather's shop, tearing things down and putting them back together..... or at least trying to stay out of his way while he tore things down and put them back together. It'll always be a toss up between WD40 and Hoppe's #9.
They're not shop assistants, they're shop supervisors....
Thanks for taking the time to shoot this stuff Keith.
I appreciate it.
Glad the shop cats approve of your work.
This was certainly an interesting ASMR to fall asleep to last night
"A little bit of light work" Do NOT let your surgeon see this video! they will be horrified!
I think actually Keith's well on the way to the end of his 2 weeks of light duty work. Just keep off the painkillers so you're fully aware if you overdo anything.
I was on a CNC lathe. At some point I noticed that the chuck no longer had the jam path. At first I thought the hydraulic system had a fault, but I couldn't find the fault there. Then I tried to grease the chuck again, but that didn't help. So I said it was no longer possible. Then I was given the task of removing the chuck, disassembling it, cleaning it, relubricating it and putting everything back together again.
In a good company, the clamping pressure is measured annually. Things have flown because of it. Especially small parts with high speeds. zooonngggg .... You can hardly pull your head away in that fast.
They measure the clamping pressure annually??? sounds painful... and sort of cruel.
Joke.
Is this a Google translation - I don't understand a word of it.
That's nice. I have a lathe from the 1800's, with all the original gears and chucks. Everything. It is in desperate need of a full restoration. My friend had it, he passed away at 87 years old just 6 weeks ago. . I would love to get it to you. I live in Ms, Lauderdale
That huge tank of evapo rust sure is handy!
People think WD-40 isn't a great lubricant because it isn't a lubricant at all. It has some minor lubricating properties, but it is was originally designed to de-ice wings of planes. As a mechanic I use it almost exclusively as a cleaner for metal parts and machines.
WD works well for me as a cutting lube for Aluminium and Tellurium Copper, but I buy it by the gallon to use for dealing with condensation in my unheated and draughty machine shop on cold nights here in Yorkshire UK
From 'recycle for beer cans' to 'showroom ready'. Cool.
Having done many of those I have found soaking them in diesel fuel 24 to 48 hours in a warm spot with occasional stiring works very well.
Hear hear.
Yep. There are two things that work better and easier with time: soaking frozen/rusted anything in diesel - preferably in a warm place, or warm the part first, and restoring cracked and dried wood in linseed oil in the sun. Linseed oil likes to soak into end grain, just as warm diesel creeps into every tight corner.
Two things I do differently are that I wash thoroughly in hot water and washing liquid before and after de-rusting.
Then I get all the water out of the pores of all metal parts by warning them in a low oven - before applying any surface protection of any kind. Makes a big difference. The first and most damaging oxidisation takes place under the surface, not on it. WD40 is oil based, so it FLOATS ON TOP OF water!! So WD40 can actually seal in moisture.
@@G58 WD 40 means water displacement.
@@lecnac855 Thank you, I know perfectly well what the WD in the name stands for. I also know the ingredients, and understand physics.
Unless you believe that water floats on oil, then I’m not sure why you thought it necessary to state the obvious.
Great engineering makes refurbishment easy. Great video!
Keith, another great video! I really appreciate you taking the time to explain the entire process. It turned out fantastic!
Gotta Love that Evapo Rust. That stuff works Great. Great Job on the Chuck. Can’t wait to see the Lathe being restored.
Great job, Keith! Don't push the left arm too much. Docs might say a couple of weeks, but it will probably take a few more to fully heal. Love the shot of the cats. They're getting so big. And so calm. One bang in my house and all four head for cover. Yours? Eh, whatever, we want to sleep, we're going to sleep.
Great find Keith. Looks like a Bison Set-Tru!! Great Channel, thanks for the share!!
Wild guess about the adjustment screws not being 90°: when indicating the chuck, it would be beneficial for the adjustment screws to be in line with the jaws so you don’t need to worry about angles
Bison chucks are lovely chucks! and that was a great refurbish ..With the camlockstuds, there should be a ring on the pin just below the cam cutout which is a depth guide for how far to crew it in. going all the way to the bottom of the thread is usually too far and the cams wont old the pin correctly (theres pointers on the spindle nose where the cam indicator has to land between when tight, you adjust this by screwing the pin in or out as required)
Thank You. Keith!
Great video as always! I've been a Tool and Die maker for 30 years and You're truly a man with a craft! I'd like to meet you some day.
Happy New Year Keith! Have a great day! God bless!🎚🙏🇲🇾🇲🇾🇲🇾
Hey Keith nice chuck, I have a self centering Bison & it is great. When washing parts & you want to get all the water out soak the parts on Methylated Spirits (Denatured Alcohol). I will absorb the water then heat with a hair drier or heat gun & the Methylated Spirits (Denatured Alcohol) will evaporate leaving your part moisture free. Same if you have water in any of your petrol (Gas) tanks. Cheers Peter from OZ
Hi Keith! Great job! I love the way Evaporust works! Great job!
Thanks Keith excellent commentary to accompany your practical demo. Many thanks
Some bright blub found that if the adjustment screws move from 90 degrees to what you have, you get a finer/better adjustment.
Even SpaceX is moving the grid fins to this configuration on new builds. Better control on first stage reentry.
Nice Video. Thanks. Bison has a rebuild procedure video for these chucks on TH-cam - I rebuilt mine since it had done brass chip duty (also from a prior owner's Monarch 10EE). Probably a good idea to have not too much grease but Bison's own video shows them lathering the rack gears liberally. You can purchase Bison chuck grease. Also, I find an ultrasonic cleaner with orange degreaser very useful for small parts cleaning.
consistent goodness! thanks!
Classic TLC. Well done sir
That is criminal what that shop did, putting a machine outdoors to rot. Thankfully there are people like you to find and refurbish them.
There are two things that work better and easier with time: soaking frozen/rusted anything in diesel - preferably in a warm place (or warm the part first), and restoring cracked and dried wood in linseed oil in the sun. Linseed oil likes to soak into end grain, just as warm diesel creeps into every tight corner.
Two things I do differently are that I wash all parts thoroughly in hot water and washing liquid before and after de-rusting.
Then I get all the water out of the pores of all metal parts by warning them in a low oven - before applying any surface protection of any kind. Makes a big difference. The first and most damaging oxidisation takes place under the surface, not on it. WD40 is oil based, so it FLOATS ON TOP OF water!! So WD40 can actually seal in moisture.
Thank you for sharing. I’ve never used a six jaw chuck.
BISON CHUCK factory still worken in
north-east Poland
Great job! If you leave the mounting studs out, you might be able to internally chuck on the backing plate to spin it up for polishing.
Nice chuck restoration. Thanks.
Thanks Keith. Good show.
This is a great video. Decent chucks are pricey so restoring them is well worth it.
Great job buddy 👍
Lovely job. Very satisfying 👍
Wd-40 is as good a penetrating lubricant as anything else out there. I've tried heaps of deep creep, freeze penetrants, peanut butter blaster, etc. Just a whole lot of the same. wd-40 is cheap and it protects from flash rust just fine.
What's even better is WD- 40 has a whole bunch of different formulas that are good at different things. Like they have one that is a little thicker that sticks to what you spray it on or electrical contact cleaner.
A 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF or Kroil are the top penetrating lubricants. Just put the acetone/ATF in a spray bottle and shake well before using, very cheap to make.
@@honorharrington4546 agree. it works miracles.
Project farm did a four part series on penetrating oils and sprays. Liquid Wrench won in terms of value... but several other products did well (and some not so much!).
Nice chuck and a job well done, thanks for sharing your video
Thanks for sharing 👍
Ginger and Mary-Anne knew that you had it all in hand.
Great video but God bless you for caring for those sweet animals.
Oh... I think you can use some of the threaded holes to Jack the two parts apart, rather than using the chisel.
Where's the fun in doing thinks the right way?
I bet you are one of those guys that never use a hammer.
🤦
I’d guess if Keith had paid the €2000 new price for that Chuck, there would not have been a hammer any where near it!
Thanks Keith. Enjoyed
Super fun. I love the video. It is much appreciated. I have the shop towels, the hex drivers, and the WD40. I guess that I need to add a few tools to my arsenal. :-) Thanks again.
Thank you for sharing. Nicely done.
Magnalube is great stuff. Perfect application.
That was great! I have to go look at my old 3 jaw that I have and clean it up.
Let's get a thumbs up for recasting that lead hammer! 😁
Thanks for sharing Keith,
Cheers
Was gonna comment on how he needs to make a video of recasting that hammer. lol
Yup it’s way past due 😁
Its that time of the year again 😂😂
Reckon he's got a good few years left in that one 😆
That old hammer goes on the wall. Mr Rucker needs to make a new one.
The old workhorse deserves retirement. A place of honor.
Please don't melt it down. Make a new lead hammer, same or similar,
with all the knowledge, pros and cons of the last one.
Came for the chuck, stayed for the shop kitties 💖
Keith, your shop cats BENEATH the table are a sort of harmonic balancer for all the activity on TOP of the table and with that, balance in the universe is maintained.
Great video, thanks Keith.
This was a very satisfying "quick" restoration. Chucks are fascinating works of mechanical engineering and this one is clearly pretty nice. Definitely core content for this channel!
I’d love to have one of those chucks.
$2,000 is standing in my way.
Pocket change when you consider how much a restored 10EE is worth.
I'd better start saving up right now then ;)
@John Johnson So the Germans wanted a well-Polished product ;)
@John Johnson To Polski bison-bial, 70 lat tradycji i doświadczenia.Cena takiego to 2200 euro.
I find putting the items in very hot water after the evporust really helps get rid of the oxides. The water will just evaporate while it’s drying due to the heat of the metal…..
That's gonna be a sweet Chuck on that Lathe when you get the restored
"I really need this thing mounted more solidly" says the guy standing next to a bench vise.
i HAVE TWO CATS THAT LOOK EXACTLY LIKE THE TWO SUPERVISORS UNDER YOUR WORK BENCH. bY THE WAY GREAT VIDEO.
Amen to your comments on WD-40. NOT much good a lubricant (very low film strength) but very good as a water displacer. It adheres to metal better than water does, so it creeps under any water and lifts it away from the metal where the water can evaporate without causing any new rusting.
As always very informative.
Amazing how a better metal can be brought back.
Very nice chuck
His name is Keith.
@@shawbros Hilarious, but I’m betting it flies right over the head of quite a few.
@@shawbros, Lol, thanks for the morning chuckle!
Great video as always!
For those of you who are unaware. WD-40 was developed for use by NASA. It was originally used to stop condensation from developing on US Atlas and, I believe the Saturn V, rockets while on the launchpad.
It is mostly (>75%) mineral spirits. That type of stuff was invented as a cleaning solvent "back in the day"! It is a type of Stoddard Solvent known as VARSOL to the "old guys" here!
@@paulcopeland9035 “Varsol” is basically kerosene without the smell.
I just did my lil 3 jaw cause I had been doing a lot of boring and I started having problems I took it off cleaned with a pic still problems so I took it fully apart and it's amazing how much tiny chips are packed in there I've noticed that the biggest problem is boring cause lots of those chips eventually get pushed back into the gaps back there and get stuck
Always good Videos
thank you Keith for saying that about WD - 40 there is a lot out there that dont know that
Always I watched your videos very good information as want but the problem is the elements never founded.
The Magnalube is readily available on-line in tubes.
The golden rule works every time - When all else fails, get a bigger hammer (Drill). LOL
My career was in clerical office work (that's an official Workers Compensation Insurance rating classification) and I once had a boss who worked on oil well drilling platforms as summer work when in high school and college. He said that's were he learned "ain't no such thing as won't fit--just get a bigger hammer!" Thanks, Keith, for recalling to mind a fine man who I crossed trails with 30 years ago.
Should be the 11th commandment
good job keith
Nicely done. You should enjoy that one for years to come.
Thanks Keith.
There are two cam-loc mounts that use three studs. If the stud diameters are .5625 the mount is a D1-3. If the diameters are .625 it’s a D1-4.
At work, I use a South Bend lathe, I try to keep it clean....we use it to make a special brush that is used for cleaning out casting items for the railroad industry. I have been using this machine for the better part of 16 years and to my knowledge, it has never.....ever.....been taken apart to clean it.....it's a 3-jaw, that takes carbon steel flat wire and turns it into coils for the aforementioned brushes. Am unsure as to what areas in the casting process these are used, and I have asked several times to see a video of the brushes being used, but it appears to be secret....either on our company side, or the customer side....as if I would attempt to get into casting railroad parts. :-/ MAYBE someday I will sneak a photo of one of these brushes to you...(like in Facebook)....they do go into a tube, of sorts, to do the cleaning aspect, I would still like to see them in action.....Until another day.....Peace.
KITTIES AT 34:33 !!
Great job 👍
Good shop assistants...!!!
Hiya Keith
The impact driver switch was a clear example of the mandate to "Get a bigger hammer!"
Another great video. Careful with your right arm. You might make a point of being a lefty when you need strength with your arms. Again, another nice quickie video.
Nice Repair!
At 6:54 Keith makes some witness marks to keep the fine alignment of the chuck. Just a thought but wouldn't a line scratched into the three pieces of the chuck be more accurate? Similar to what you use when cutting the slot for woodworking joinery biscuits. Maybe it doesn't need to be that accurate.
It aligns on bolt holes so it can only go together in 3 positions. Dots show you which one.
Now would you not want to use sand blasting on these parts? I only ask because I watch a lot of MyMechanics and he usually starts the refurbishing process by washing, then putting the item(s) in the media blaster.
On the jaws, since they are two parts... did you split them and check the mating surfaces and bolts?
And I'm wondering what the three smallest bolts in the center of the face do. I get the long ones hold the backplate to the front, but what adjustment or other purpose do the three itty bitty ones do/have? (Besides meaning you need another hex wrench size.)
they hold the center of back half of the chuck.
I use a hair-dryer for drying stuff off after de-rusting and washing, before adding a thin coat of oil to stop it rusting-up again.
I have used WD40 for probably 45 years, I have never experienced it "gumming up".
Ihave. It proposal depend on temperature and humidity.
Only had it gum up once .. and more like it turned to a shellac later .. but took repeated heat freeze cycles with moderatley high humidity to do it.
I still trust wd40 over anything else.
Light duty!? Keith, I won't tell your doctor if you won't.
I am a mechanic not a machinist but thanks for a very informative video
I have the exact cooks lead hammer but it's getting due for a remelt but haven't been able to find a mold any suggestions would be great thanks keeping mind I am from Ontario Canada and love your videos cheers
Why is the vise always option 2?
In next week's video. "Making a new lead hammer"
Great video as always.