Lyle, when I was a young boy I would watch my dad oil his Atlas lathe. He would talk in a low tone to me as to what he was doing, much the way you are doing now. It would sort of lull me into a trans like state much the way you are doing to me now. Thanks for the memories. By the way, I am now 60 years old, and have been in the business for over forty years. Your friend here in southwest Michigan, Cliff
Nice intro. 😊 The swinging sign effect was cool. Lots of good basic practices and principles, as always. Mr Peterson, as far as I'm concerned, your contribution to the machinists community ranks up there with David Gingery. Thanks, John
Hi Mr. Pete. When I am done with the oil, I take a spray can of WD-40 and mist a thin coat of it over the whole machine. Works well on machines that are not used often or have to stay out in the cold.
I just bought a 1946 9A with the 4 and 1/2 bed. The lathe is in great shape but quite dirty. Thanks for the great tips on lubrication, this will help a lot!
The motor on your South Bend is most probably original. I have the same on my South Bend Model A. It's a Westinghouse motor and has been on my lathe since it was brought to Norway after WW II (probably as part of the Marshall Aid).
Thank you you answered all my questions. You should mention how to free the little spring loaded oil ports which are often stuck with rust and gunk and wont let the oil go where it is suppose to.
Glad I found your channel, this is by far the most sensible, and comprehensive instruction on how to maintain a lathe, I have a Boxford from around 1989, and it's amazing how similar everything is, I too have recently bought a very expensive booklet on my lathe, has loads of facts, but almost nothing by way of maintenance, so I am well pleased with this series of videos, will check out your others too, Oh, and I like your down to earth way of talking!, cheers, Dave
@@mrpete222 Just a short addition to my earler comment, I have found and bought that Lindsey reprint book featured in this video, will have wait for delivery to the UK, but should be worth it, thanks again Mr Petertson.
I've watched as many of your videos as I can over the last couple years. I wanted to thank you for your time & effort putting these together. I sure wish I had you for my shop teacher. What a wealth of knowledge your videos are. By the way, my 1940 9" has no brass bushings in the headstock, it's just machined cast iron. If you have time you could look on my Facebook for pictures of my refurbishment of the lathe. Thanks again for your hard work on these videos & hope you have a Merry Christmas!
Great video series. Lots of good information and very well presented. The only thing I would add to this video is a mention of the ball thrust bearing on the left end of the spindle. It is the most neglected bearing on the machine And is not mentioned in any of the Oil charts or booklets that I've seen. you need to remove the left hand gear guard to gain access to it. But it should be oiled Regularly. And use an oil that will stick to the bearing. one thought is to drill a small hole in the gear guard, just large enough for a small tube to go through. Using a spray can of Gear and chain oil, or something similar, spray oil into the Bering. another thought is just to put grease in this bearing, either the grease mentioned by South Bend or super lube. just don't let it run dry. Joe.
I use motorcycle chain oil on the change gear end. It is in a spray can and can be put on safely with gears running. It has excellent adhesion and it does a great job of keeping noise down on my wartime 9 inch. In the UK it is a little wet in winter so I brush over like you but with an oil and small amount of grease mix.Excellent video. Regards Roy
I watched this video I have a south bend 13x40 and a Bridgeport mill and after I finished rebuilding the I walked into the shop and my mill war covered with tiny water droplets and was starting to rust so after totally freaking out I dried it of and oiled it up but a friend of mine told me I needed a dehumidifier. I have to admit I didn’t think one would effect my whole shop 40 x 50 with 14 foot walls but it keeps the humidity under 40 percent and my machines never sweat and stay dry all year long. The dehumidifier I bought was from Amazon and we’re only around 200 and the yearly power usage is really minimal. They probably only need to be used when you get those big temperature swings like the ones we get in louisiana but I run mine all year long
Nicely done, thanks. A friend acquired a SB 9 that is clean but had been unused for quite a while. This and your other segments will be useful to reference before he starts using it.
I have a 9” (“ South bend Lathe that has the bed cut short 4 1/2 ‘ under the chuck .This allows a larger plate or chuck to go on .Never seen another one like it
May be that South Bend didn't emphasize lubrication in the book because if the lathes they sold weren't well maintained they would wear out and they would sell more lathes over time ?
Thanks- oh boy oh boy, I cannot wait to get to this point! Just got the apron off and soaking. I do wonder, (having the same SB lathe model C) tearing the head stack apart and cleaning would be a good idea? As I stated on another video, I inherited it and it has rust all over, I know I should but don't want to ruin it, or should I oil the snot out of it and hope for the best?
Although I have a Smithy Granite machine (still hoping for some thoughts from you about that), I still found the video helpful in just pointing out the types of oils needed to maintain the lathe.
It's possible that the Teflon based grease is the newer variant and that the lathe is the older, after all, revisions do occur and the lathe couldn't be changed, so, it should be perfectly okay with just oil, after all, these things are improvements. The thing was designed to run on oil.
It’s odd that my FOURTEEN not only doesn’t have anything in the manuals about oiling the lead screw rear support bearing, but there is no way to oil it! I have to squirt some #20 in from the edge of the bearing while the lead screw is turning to get anything inside. It’s a short 1”. In fact, the manual parts section just labels it as “support bracket”, without listing the bushing inside separately. I keep thinking to remove that and drill a hole through the support and the bronze sleeve, but after having it for 19 years now, while making a number of other improvements, I’ve not yet done that.
Hello Mrpete i am wondering how do you get the crank handle off of the compound rest mine has a slotted head but it looks line another screw of sometype goes through it in the middle of the sloted head???
Dear Pete, I purchased an oil and replacement wick set a year ago for my 9C, and just now am getting to the point of using them. But I can find no information on wick replacement. As I disassemble the lathe, will it be obvious where they go? Or do you have a video on wick replacement? Thanks!
Note: On the back gear shaft and pully cone of my 10K what was "Oil" on your lathe - mine is marked grease. So SB changed the recommendation at some time.
When I was in high school , collage ...In shop , training I did not take it all 100% serious because I did not expect to be a machinist....I , at times found the instructors to be finicky, and hated being embarrassed when the instructor called attention to my mistakes for the whole class to observe....I have now been a machinist for 43 years and am close to retirement and I still love it and think back to my instructors and admire their determination, patience. Lyle what you are doing is SO VERY IMPORTANT...Thank You.....Jeff
I have a wood lathe that has a few similarities. My question is concerning lubricating the Morse taper on the tail stock. Are you supposed to lubricate a Morse taper?
There is an online downloadable version of the South Bend Bulletin H-2 (Oiling the lathe) at: www.bluechipmachineshop.com/books/SB_H2.pdf Thanks for your videos. I also have a South Bend oiling schedule (frequencies) in a single page chart, with diagrams, as a .pdf, which I found online, but I am now not sure where I got it.
@@mrpete222 I recently purchased a very old what people are telling me is a Very Early South Bend Lathe. I have a lot of work to do to it saying it for when the weather breaks. I was wondering if there is a way to remove excessive looseness in the machine meaning the head is tight , but the whole assembly can slide left/ right excessively, parallel with the ways.
You are very welcome. I have learned a lot from your videos. You remind of my high school shop teacher Mr. Decker. I hope to have my new to me 1949 ish 12" Clausing lathe rejuvenated and in use soon.
Lyle,'' Lindsay Books closed down in ~2012, but their stock and publishing rights was bought by some of his employees at Your Old Time Bookstore. I really like this series, even though my South Bend is much older than the one you are maintaining, a lot of the info still applies.
I have watched your videos for years and always find them direct and to the point as well as accurate. A south bend owner
Lyle, when I was a young boy I would watch my dad oil his Atlas lathe. He would talk in a low tone to me as to what he was doing, much the way you are doing now. It would sort of lull me into a trans like state much the way you are doing to me now. Thanks for the memories. By the way, I am now 60 years old, and have been in the business for over forty years. Your friend here in southwest Michigan, Cliff
good story-Thanks for watching
Nice intro. 😊
The swinging sign effect was cool.
Lots of good basic practices and principles, as always.
Mr Peterson, as far as I'm concerned, your contribution to the machinists community ranks up there with David Gingery.
Thanks,
John
Hi Mr. Pete. When I am done with the oil, I take a spray can of WD-40 and mist a thin coat of it over the whole machine. Works well on machines that are not used often or have to stay out in the cold.
Thanks for watching---thats a good idea
Very well done. I appreciate you showing areas to oil that are not on the lubrication brochures. Oil is cheap. Machines are expensive.
I just bought a 1946 9A with the 4 and 1/2 bed. The lathe is in great shape but quite dirty. Thanks for the great tips on lubrication, this will help a lot!
Nice buy, you will like it
The motor on your South Bend is most probably original. I have the same on my South Bend Model A. It's a Westinghouse motor and has been on my lathe since it was brought to Norway after WW II (probably as part of the Marshall Aid).
Thank you you answered all my questions. You should mention how to free the little spring loaded oil ports which are often stuck with rust and gunk and wont let the oil go where it is suppose to.
Glad I found your channel, this is by far the most sensible, and comprehensive instruction on how to maintain a lathe, I have a Boxford from around 1989, and it's amazing how similar everything is, I too have recently bought a very expensive booklet on my lathe, has loads of facts, but almost nothing by way of maintenance, so I am well pleased with this series of videos, will check out your others too, Oh, and I like your down to earth way of talking!, cheers, Dave
Thank you very much for watching and commenting
@@mrpete222 Just a short addition to my earler comment, I have found and bought that Lindsey reprint book featured in this video, will have wait for delivery to the UK, but should be worth it, thanks again Mr Petertson.
Very very nice, I bought a South Bend I think 13", it is stamped 81195. This video puts the oiling together, big help, thanks Theo Nulden Netherlands
I've watched as many of your videos as I can over the last couple years. I wanted to thank you for your time & effort putting these together. I sure wish I had you for my shop teacher. What a wealth of knowledge your videos are. By the way, my 1940 9" has no brass bushings in the headstock, it's just machined cast iron. If you have time you could look on my Facebook for pictures of my refurbishment of the lathe. Thanks again for your hard work on these videos & hope you have a Merry Christmas!
Thanks for watching. I have heard of those CI bearings--built during the war
I just can't say how wonderful your videos are! I wish you would have been my shop teacher!
Thank you very much
Great video series. Lots of good information and very well presented. The only thing I would add to this video is a mention of the ball thrust bearing on the left end of the spindle. It is the most neglected bearing on the machine And is not mentioned in any of the Oil charts or booklets that I've seen. you need to remove the left hand gear guard to gain access to it. But it should be oiled Regularly. And use an oil that will stick to the bearing. one thought is to drill a small hole in the gear guard, just large enough for a small tube to go through. Using a spray can of Gear and chain oil, or something similar, spray oil into the Bering. another thought is just to put grease in this bearing, either the grease mentioned by South Bend or super lube. just don't let it run dry.
Joe.
Good point--Thanks for watching
I use motorcycle chain oil on the change gear end. It is in a spray can and can be put on safely with gears running. It has excellent adhesion and it does a great job of keeping noise down on my wartime 9 inch. In the UK it is a little wet in winter so I brush over like you but with an oil and small amount of grease mix.Excellent video. Regards Roy
I also use chain spray. I find it sticks to the gears better than anything else. regards
Thanks for watching
I watched this video I have a south bend 13x40 and a Bridgeport mill and after I finished rebuilding the I walked into the shop and my mill war covered with tiny water droplets and was starting to rust so after totally freaking out I dried it of and oiled it up but a friend of mine told me I needed a dehumidifier. I have to admit I didn’t think one would effect my whole shop 40 x 50 with 14 foot walls but it keeps the humidity under 40 percent and my machines never sweat and stay dry all year long. The dehumidifier I bought was from Amazon and we’re only around 200 and the yearly power usage is really minimal. They probably only need to be used when you get those big temperature swings like the ones we get in louisiana but I run mine all year long
Nicely done, thanks. A friend acquired a SB 9 that is clean but had been unused for quite a while. This and your other segments will be useful to reference before he starts using it.
👍
Great info, a very often overlooked part of maint. A clean, well lubricated lathe is a happy lathe. It works better and it lasts longer !!
Thanks for watching
Just bought my first lathe which is a Boxford, which is a UK South Bend copy. These videos are very useful.
Those boxford lathes are awesome
Once again, thanks so much!
excellent presentation
Excellent lubrication video, Thank you!
Nicely presented... Thanks for Sharing... Stay Safe...
I have a 9” (“ South bend Lathe that has the bed cut short 4 1/2 ‘ under the chuck .This allows a larger plate or chuck to go on .Never seen another one like it
Was that Don at the factory? Or by an owner. That is called a gap bed Lathe.
May be that South Bend didn't emphasize lubrication in the book because if the lathes they sold weren't well maintained they would wear out and they would sell more lathes over time ?
I use chain saw bar oil on the ways. It is quite sticky, works very well and is relatively inexpensive.
Thanks for watching
Great maintenance video on south end lathe.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks- oh boy oh boy, I cannot wait to get to this point! Just got the apron off and soaking. I do wonder, (having the same SB lathe model C) tearing the head stack apart and cleaning would be a good idea? As I stated on another video, I inherited it and it has rust all over, I know I should but don't want to ruin it, or should I oil the snot out of it and hope for the best?
Just oil it
Although I have a Smithy Granite machine (still hoping for some thoughts from you about that), I still found the video helpful in just pointing out the types of oils needed to maintain the lathe.
Thanks for watching--I have no experience with a Smithy
You are very thorough. Thank you.
Thanks
12:17 “hole to nowhere”. On mine, I have 2 holes and the hold on a stamped guard. It’s round and follows the path of the door.
I see how your doing it. So I’ll just follow video. Just not sure if oil will get in the little holes. I see the ones with little caps.
It's possible that the Teflon based grease is the newer variant and that the lathe is the older, after all, revisions do occur and the lathe couldn't be changed, so, it should be perfectly okay with just oil, after all, these things are improvements. The thing was designed to run on oil.
yes--Thanks for watching
The whole set of Roy dean oils for that lathe is on eBay. That includes the grease that you want. The guy has the last if that grease.
It’s odd that my FOURTEEN not only doesn’t have anything in the manuals about oiling the lead screw rear support bearing, but there is no way to oil it! I have to squirt some #20 in from the edge of the bearing while the lead screw is turning to get anything inside. It’s a short 1”. In fact, the manual parts section just labels it as “support bracket”, without listing the bushing inside separately. I keep thinking to remove that and drill a hole through the support and the bronze sleeve, but after having it for 19 years now, while making a number of other improvements, I’ve not yet done that.
Drilling a hole, as what I would do. If I ever got around to it
good information. thanks mr.pete
Thanks for watching
Mr. Peterson: Reading a South Bend parts manual, they mention teflon grease for the back gear shaft (their CE1625). Any recommendations?
No recommendations. But I do not think it is very critical
Nice show. I needed this info. 😉
9:00, on your spindle pulpy where it is stamped “oil” my 1934 lathe is staked “grease”. This may be where the confusion comes from.
Yes
Hello Mrpete i am wondering how do you get the crank handle off of the compound rest mine has a slotted head but it looks line another screw of sometype goes through it in the middle of the sloted head???
mr. Peterson I do believe you knew my father his name was Claude Greenwell from St.Louis he work for Hoffman Marquardt machine company??
Dear Pete, I purchased an oil and replacement wick set a year ago for my 9C, and just now am getting to the point of using them. But I can find no information on wick replacement. As I disassemble the lathe, will it be obvious where they go? Or do you have a video on wick replacement? Thanks!
Do not
Thanks from a December 1941 9"-A SBL.
👍
Is no lubrication maintenance required on the spindle thrust ball bearing, or the thrust washer? Thank you for this information.
Appears that thrust bearing & washer rely on oil cast-off from spindle capillary wicks.
What size is that chip pan? I need to make one for my 9” C.
You have a well-fitting chip tray under this SB-9A. Did you purchase it, and if so, could you please give some buying info on it? Many thanks
Made it myself
@@mrpete222. I thought so, because I have not been able to find a proper pan for my SB-9C. Thanks for getting back to me :)
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Thanks for watching
Note: On the back gear shaft and pully cone of my 10K what was "Oil" on your lathe - mine is marked grease. So SB changed the recommendation at some time.
Yours is newer than his. The booklet is probably copied from a newer lathe (which makes sense, it would be easier to get and it's the latest).
Yes--I read about that
U THE MAN...Jeff
Thanks for watching
When I was in high school , collage ...In shop , training I did not take it all 100% serious because I did not expect to be a machinist....I , at times found the instructors to be finicky, and hated being embarrassed when the instructor called attention to my mistakes for the whole class to observe....I have now been a machinist for 43 years and am close to retirement and I still love it and think back to my instructors and admire their determination, patience. Lyle what you are doing is SO VERY IMPORTANT...Thank You.....Jeff
I have a wood lathe that has a few similarities. My question is concerning lubricating the Morse taper on the tail stock. Are you supposed to lubricate a Morse taper?
If you oil it, you may never separate the two components, Best.
lightly oiled
No offense Pete, but I can't wait to go to your estate sale. You do an immaculate job of taking care of your equipment.
Thanks for sharing sir...
Thanks for watching.
Do you believe that metal wear is the difference between a perfect lubricant and the lubricant used?
I suppose-Thanks for watching.
mrpete222
That's why I use synthetics, and set my own oil-change interval.
Its a shame this nice old Lathe is worn "way out" -lol It didn't get the TLC Mr Pete would have given it.
Thanks for watching.
Sure thing, sorry about the cheesy attempt at humor-lol
There is an online downloadable version of the South Bend Bulletin H-2 (Oiling the lathe) at:
www.bluechipmachineshop.com/books/SB_H2.pdf
Thanks for your videos.
I also have a South Bend oiling schedule (frequencies) in a single page chart, with diagrams, as a .pdf, which I found online, but I am now not sure where I got it.
Thanks
My 9”C needs oil but I see little holes but have dusty grease in them. Should I just pick it out or just oil through it
Picked it out
By any chance do you know where any re-prints of the Lyndsey lathe book can be found?
eBay is your only possibility
@@mrpete222 I recently purchased a very old what people are telling me is a Very Early South Bend Lathe. I have a lot of work to do to it saying it for when the weather breaks. I was wondering if there is a way to remove excessive looseness in the machine meaning the head is tight , but the whole assembly can slide left/ right excessively, parallel with the ways.
I'm sure glad that they have went away from the flat head screws on everything
me too-Thanks for watching
HI, I need this information, please share
Mr. Pete, You can find the lubrication brochure here
Gary, 73-year-old Home-shop-machinist in North West Arkansas
The South Bend "Lathe Maintenance Pamphlets " are available here as a free download. bluechipmachineshop.com/bc_blog/?p=710
Thanks, I hope many people read your comment
You are very welcome. I have learned a lot from your videos. You remind of my high school shop teacher Mr. Decker. I hope to have my new to me 1949 ish 12" Clausing lathe rejuvenated and in use soon.
would you get in touch with shopdogsam on his youtube channel and see what you could help him with his 1946 Logan Lathe model 200
Thanks for watching--I have to watch that vid
mrpete222 thanks I love your vids reminds me of my shop teacher and my machinist mentor
Lyle,''
Lindsay Books closed down in ~2012, but their stock and publishing rights was bought by some of his employees at Your Old Time Bookstore. I really like this series, even though my South Bend is much older than the one you are maintaining, a lot of the info still applies.
Thanks-I have been to yhat site. But I believe he only has the leftover stock--no new books coming out.
Make a video on where to oil and lathe a wife please.
What, no white lead for the dauber? Oh wait, no dauber...
LOL--Thanks for watching.