Just want to say thank you for such a thorough video. You have given me confidence to complete this myself and save hundreds if not thousands of dollars. Just take your time and be mindful not to break any of the many delicate electrical connectors that are exposed.
I feel like I owe you money after this great tutorial. Love how you described in detail how to remove those stubborn electrical connectors and plastic brackets. Im going to test the pumps without removing them if possible. I know my valves have issues so they are going to be replaced. I’ll leave the housing in place for simplicity though.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to go step by step when replacing the secondary air injection valve. Unfortunately, I also ended up needing the step by step instruction on the pumps as well. As you stated is sometimes the case, water can get in there. Sure enough I shook the pumps and u could hear water inside them so I replaced both. All said took me about 14 hours to get everything done as I am no mechanic. Well worth the time though since I spent about 900 bucks getting it done and Toyota would have charged me around 4 grand. Can’t thank you enough!!!
So happy I found this video after seeing P2442 on my 2008 tundra. I only did the valve and not the pumps, but it still took me around 6-7 hours. I saw other videos, but only this one gave me the confidence to take on this job. As is the case with all projects, the right tools make all the difference. I had to go with what I had, but that certainly meant more time and curse words. As others mentioned, I was able to get the bolts off the exhaust pipe on the passenger side, but I couldn't get them back in so I ended up taking off the exhaust pipe anyway - as shown in the video. Could have saved an hour just following the video instructions - lesson learned. Having a second set of hands would also be a huge help during certain parts, but I was able to complete it all solo - again, just takes a bit more time. Thank you so much for the video!
You're very welcome, Bobby. It's great to know our video helped you out. Who cares how long it took. You got it done on your own and saved a ton of money. A dealership would have suggested replacing the pumps as well, and you would have spent thousands on this repair. So, I say Great Job Bobby! Happy Wrenching!
I don't even own a Toyota but I was highly impressed by the way you “methodically” explained and demonstrated how to replaced and reassemble the needed components to this Secondary Air Injection System. Ever thought of becoming an instructor?
Thanks for the nice compliment. I appreciate it. No, I never thought about becoming an instructor, but in a way, I guess that's what I do with Sean and others. We instruct people how to perform jobs on their rigs.
Thank you for such a great detailed tutorial. I was able to do the whole job in about 7 hours, with some fumbling around. Now my 2010 has all new OEM pumps, valve body, and intake and you saved me the $700 the dealer wanted for labor.
I'm glad this video was made, I replaced the pumps 2 years ago and now the switch valve needs replacement as I text. The temperature is 100 degrees here in Louisiana. Thanks
Awesome video, saved me a ton of money.... although I'll admit you made a few of those steps look easy! Getting the harness off the intake manifold was brutal.
Thanks William. We can't show the full struggle when making videos because it would make the video way longer than our videos already are. I'm happy our video helped you get the job done and saved you a bunch of money in the process. Happy Wrenching!
What a phenomenal video! Man this really bailed me out for getting this job done myself. Your method and high level of detail along with some humor speckled in made this job almost (I emphasize almost) enjoyable 🙂 Something to share: I was able to get the troublesome EGR exhaust pipe bolt that butts up against the engine head (shown at 41:14 of your video) with a mini box-in wrench that came with a Kobalt toolset I just happened to have. I was doing this job alone so I wanted to give this a shot and it worked albeit it wasn't easy. If you have a mini box-in that will clear the very narrow space between the bolt head and the engine head you can break it free then use the open end and then your fingers to back it out until it pushes up against the engine head. You will not be able to completely remove the bolt until you free up the whole unit and then you gotta tilt it up so you can finish backing out the bolt to ultimately free the air injection pump from the connection. The EGR pipe has a very small amount of flex capability (like any long pipe would LOL) that will allow you to slightly push it toward the firewall to slide the bolt out. Of course be very careful with flexing the EGR pipe to do this...but it can be done. On re-install with the new pump I set the pump down in between the EGR connections on each side with all four mounting bolts completely removed. At this point I had to put some pressure on the EGR pipe back toward the firewall to allow me to slide the bolt back in its hole and then thread it back into the pump mount. I want to say that this was NOT EASY. It just worked and it is worth sharing for those doing the job alone. If you have a helper who can help align the lower EGR mount on re-installation that is probably the easiest way to do this job. Thanks again for doing this video and helping guys like me out!
I used this video to do this exact fix for my 2010 Tundra. Absolutely amazing tutorial. Thank yall so much for helping me get my truck back on the road and save some money
Superior video! I am in the middle of doing this job on my 2010 Tundra. Without this video I would have struggled especially on the wiring harness bolt behind the intake. So detailed and comprehensive!
@@derekcapitano5257 that’s the name of the game for us bro! We try not to leave any details out. Swing back around when you’re done and share your experience and hopefully success with us via another comment! - Sean
Also, I just watched your rear axle bearing replacement video and realized you are a Firefighter. I retired 2.5 years ago after 30 years of service here in West Central Florida. I was passionate about the job but an highly enjoying retirement.
@@derekcapitano5257 I just retired 2 months ago. I miss the job at some level, but there was quite a bit of B.S. that I don't miss. When there were true emergencies I was helping with, I felt satisfied with the job. Unfortunately, the high majority of our call volume is not emergencies. I miss the adrenaline pumping calls, I miss driving the fire engine, and I miss a lot of the guys. It feels weird to be retired, but time doesn't stop for anyone and it was my time to go and let some young guy take my place. I plan on enjoying my retirement, and I already am.
William!!! Thanks for this generous donation, the largest we’ve received! Would love to send you some stickers and patches. Please leave your email so we can communicate and get your address! - Sean
Best video I've seen, changing water pump snapped those air injection hose , so gotta change those air injection hose now. Thanks you for great thorough video
Did cutting the hose make your check engine come on along with trac off? Asking because I just changed alternator and was pushing the hoses all over the place
Worked great for my 2011 tundra. I ended up being able to take off the pipe from the valve peice without taking it off from the wheel well section. Amazing instructions
I watched a video by car care nut where he said they corrected this failure in later years by spinning the pump up for a second after shutdown to clear any water buildup. thanks for your breakdowns!
I don't know how spinning the pump some more would help. It's the pumps sending water to the switching valves that's the problem. Toyota addressed the water intrusion into the pumps by redesigning the air intake tube that we showed in the video. Whether the new design works as intended is the question. Most people that have had issues with the secondary air injection system, at least from my experience, had a switching valve failure. The pumps were fine. Maybe the theory is having the pumps run for a second helps drive moisture out of the switching valve.
We need a follow up from Mark! Regardless, excellent video and step by step. I’m confidant I can make this repair. You explain things VERY well. Thank you!
I haven't heard anything from Mark, so I'm assuming the repair has held up. Good to hear you appreciate the level of detail we offer in this video. You're very welcome.
This is how all DIY videos should be made, clear visual perspective, articulate speaking and humor to get our mind off the frustration of car repairs. I'm getting ready to tackle this job, my 2010 Sequoia 5.7L has a code P2433 "Pressure sensor circuit high Bank1" i'm assuming this is what i need to replace, the pressure sensors sit on top of the diverter valves assembly right? Not a lot of info out there but i'm assuming this is the case. Thanks for the video fellas, keep it coming! Thumbs up and subscribed.
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it. I don't know if the pressure sensors are part of the switching valve assembly. This is something I never researched. If you find a definitive answer, please comment back and let us know. You know, I might still have the Toyota FSM pages for this job on my computer. I'll take a look and let you know if I find anything regarding the pressure sensors.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks again for the DIY video, I was able to replace the valves today. Truck drives now without limp mode and seems to be working like normal. Before replacing the valves truck would not get out of limp mode, you can’t even clear the code it just stays on. As soon as I put these in the light went away on its own and truck is good again. I think it’s safe to say the pressure sensors are on this unit. So anyone with a code P2433 replace this with OEM Toyota parts and it should fix it. Costs $300 for the part and 2 hours of your time if you follow this video
@@vincephan344 Hey Vince, I'm happy to hear the repair worked for you. I'm guessing you're right that the pressure sensors are on the switching valves. That's good to know. Great job getting this repair done on your own. You saved a ton of money. A Toyota dealer would have suggested replacing all the components and charged you around $3-4k to perform this job.
Awesome video, very detail. Love the step-by-step instructions. Thank you so much, you saved me a lot of money, and I enjoy learning to do things myself!!!!
@abdulmoussa2310 Thanks for the compliment, and you're very welcome. I'm glad our video enabled you to perform the job yourself, and you save a bunch of money. Yes, learning to be self-sufficient and get things done yourself is a great thing. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for the excellent video. I checked the pumps just by applying voltage to the connectors - without taking the pumps out of the wheel well. About the rear pipe/valve bolt that hits the manifold (won't come out because it bumps) - it can be loosened, and then remove the 3 bolts that hold the valve set, then you have enough "play" to get that bolt the rest of the way out. Very fiddle - y, but can be done. I got a little careless when torquing the intake manifold down - I lost a 12mm deep socket down the back somewhere, but a small price to pay compared to paying the dealer. Note: use tape to secure your socket to the ratchet when tightening the intake manifold down - if loose it can bump off and fall deep into the engine! 😏
this must be the best video ever, step by step thanks, it help alot ,i need to try and fix it myself because the dealer try to rub our money 😂 . the dealer some people that rob customers, thanks for your video
Hey man I don't know if you read the comments on your videos but I just completed this job on my 07 tundra. Took me 8 hours which sucks but if it wasn't for this video it would've cost almost 10 times as much. Thanks boss.
We read most of the comments on our channel. Great to hear our video helped you get the job done and you saved a bunch of money in the process. Good Job and Happy Wrenching!
That’s the name of the game for us my friend! Be sure to give the video a like if it helped you out and if you wanna see more of this good stuff give us a subscribe! Cheers! - Sean
Just did mine, ur vid was amazingly helpful and made is so simple, thanks for the details, specs and what not, hope it works, my pums worked, but the valves did not, when i went to start it, it hickuped, and didnt hear the pumps kick on, hopefully thwy will in the morning...
4.7 litre engine is so much easier to replace. located on bank 1 and 2 outside of engine. Im replacing my third one on bank 2 but next time it goes im buying the bypass kit. For some reason these after market injection valves dont last long . And yes I replaced air pump also . Great video
You're very welcome! Sean and I are all about empowering people to handle their own automotive work so they can be self-sufficient and save boat loads of money.
Thanks for the Video Greetings from Fremont California just subscribed I have a 2011 Toyota Tundra 5.7L Limited Platinum 4x4 Love this Machine Just got a P2447 changed both pumps I did not know how to test the pumps thanks to you now I do. Code still shows up so next I am going to tackle the Air Injection System Valve. Just sucks the 4.7L has the valves on the outside of the manifold and 5.7L has them buried inside the intake manifold play hard fix hard great job and thanks again guy's keep up the great vids 🤙🌅🛻🧰
oh crap, that's a lot of labor to get to the valves. My 12 tundra just threw the code, not sure if it's the injection motors or the valves under the manifold. Mine has a TRD supercharger and a completely different manifold cover. Do you happen to know if it's similar under there as it looks on the one you're filming? btw absolutely fantastic attention to detail ! Thanks
You have the same engine so it should look the same under the intake manifold. Glad you appreciate the detail we offer in this video. Good luck with the job.
I've heard about this and I told Mark about it. Mark chose not to cheat the system so he could pass a smog check. He wanted to fix the problem using OEM parts.
Thank you the very detailed video! Ran into it because I have a P2433 code on my ‘07 Tundra 5.7L. Not CEL for the valves but it’s related to them so will be replacing for piece of mind and hopefully those two connectors are the sensors (?) I tried ordering from your links but unable to, getting bunch of strange info like one said ‘doesn’t ship to my address’.
You're very welcome. Hope the job goes smooth for you. That's weird you were having trouble with the links. But, you have the part numbers so you'll be able to find an alternative to buy from. Happy Wrenching!
Did replacing the valve fix the P2433 code? I have the same code in a 2007 5.7L Tundra with 112K miles on it. Code is for the pressure sensor circuit on Bank 1.
You can use whatever tools you want. All my cordless tools are made by either Milwaukee or Dewalt. By the way, I caught the humor and hint that I mentioned Milwaukee too many times in the video. In all our videos, I let people know the exact tools we are using throughout the job. You're welcome!
Would it be a good idea to proactively replace the updated pipes with the water “guard” to prevent the pumps from pushing water to the valves or will the valves inevitably fail regardless? No issues with my 2018 yet. Thank you for the advice. Great video.
@StephenSmith-it5zy That might not be a bad idea, but if it were me, I'd probably wait for a problem to arise to mess with it. Maybe you'll never have to deal with it.
We don't have instructions for testing the ECM. This is our only video on this subject for troubleshooting and fixing the secondary air injection system on the 5.7L V8 engine.
@TimmyTheToolman hey buddy ur a toyota tech, this trk comes in what wld u do, service data ok, pumps run, check valves wrk according to test, has new Toyota bank 1 driver, cycle key no power leaving driver going to pump any help, not seeing pin out to test ecm to see if it's ground side switched, need lil help, 2007 toyota tundra, 4.7 has one pump under manifold, and one pump rt wheelhouse.
@@charlesmecum5009 I'm a DIYer, not a Toyota Tech. If the check valve is testing out OK, I don't know what would be next. So with the switching valve test, you can hear or see the valve opening and closing or is it just some ohms resistance test? From my experience, which is limited, it's usually the switching valve that is the problem.
@TimmyTheToolman well I'm a fixxer not a delete to fix problem guy, was hoping some toyota techs follow and might read and help, im older not a computer guy meaning all the social platforms and stuff, not a guy just hanging out on a phone or PC lol so don't know the PC lingo lol. But did enjoy vid
Hi! I didn’t mark the hoses and forgot which hose goes where up top closer to the engine not the connection into the hose itself. Would I be able to email you a pic ?
All I have as a reference is this video and another video I did on this engine replacing the valve cover gaskets. So, I'd have the same information as you. Maybe the valve cover gasket video series will help you out. It's two parts. This is Part 1: th-cam.com/video/ASOIvxWogWI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Qi7lLKzEZAxtBN_0
Timmy, I finished up the secondary valve swap out late tonight. The video was a great help. I thought the entire job was smooth and I didn’t have any major issues until I cranked the truck. Although I no longer have the codes for secondary valves, the engine is going crazy first really low rpms and then high rpms the really low and then back to high and then back to low for several cycles until the engine dies. I double and tripled everything. Tomorrow I am going to take the intake manifold off again and make sure the center electrical connector between the secondary air valves is properly seated. The vehicle almost has 300k miles. The throttle body has never been clean and I first thought my clean throttle body was causing the issue but after 3 cycles of the engine dying out I stopped cranking. Just curious if you had any thoughts or suggestions. Thanks, Clay
@@TimmyTheToolman Yep, the hose that was 'fighting me' (at 31:47) was the culprit. When I disconnected it, the other side of the hose also came loose. Because it was buried in foam, I didn't notice it had disconnected. I double-checked all my work and found it after about 30 minutes. No more error codes, and everything is back to normal. Cheers! A beer is headed your way.
Great video, getting ready to do this on my 2013 4.6L V8 Tundra. Having trouble finding the exact part number for the secondary air injection valve assembly. Any help is appreciated!
Bank 1 PN 25702-38050 Bank 2 PN 25701-38100 Made by Toyota Denso. Don't buy Chinese made Dorman. They are junk and die after a couple of weeks. I made that mistake.
Great Video. One question. So mine just turned on. But I won't have time to replace until the weekend. Is it safe to still drive my truck? Code P2442 secondary air injection valve stuck open bank 2
Yes, it's safe to drive. On some vehicles, the computer can put the engine into limp mode, but I don't think that's the case with this engine. The guy I helped in the video had that code for a while before I helped him and he was able to drive the truck no problem.
Thank you! You referred to the hard lines coming off the valves you removed under the intake manifold as “egr” if I recall correctly? Did you mean SAIS? I don’t think the 3UR-FE engines have egr? Tks!
Thank you very much for the great video. Great details and informative. Question, Where can I find Toyota Air Pump Inlet - 17621-0S012 (new design trumpets)? Having hard time to locate it. Thank you.
So sir when you opened up the 2 valves and showed that the were stuck open/closed. Can they not be worked/repaired at to make them function like they are supposed to? Thanks.
I doubt it. Rubber seals will be totally gone. This is unfortunate because these parts are expensive. Also, if you buy cheap Chinese aftermarket you will be changing them very soon again. Don't ask how I know that.
No, he didn't. This system is for emissions and it really doesn't so a whole lot other than cause people grief when one of the components of the system fails and they get a check engine light.
Enjoy your channel. I have a ?? Related to my 2001 Toyota Tacoma, V6. Bought 2 years ago. When scan fuel trims, only shows one bank, bank one. Any ideas why?
Wondering why the price varies drastically for a single replacemet pump around 500$ for a genuine toyota... or 100$ for 2 pumps ...its essentially the same part so why would i spend 1000 when i can get it for 100 and its no wonder the shop close by wants 3000$ to fix it. I got the pumps out but they dont even respond or kick on when i hooked them to my battery ...and sadly i do not have a multimeter . Anyways ...great video super thorough ....doing the lords work out here my brotha ....god bless ... things seem to be moving in a difection where its like they dont want you to be able to fix it yourself so a big thanks for making it possible for people who are clueless abouf cars ( me) the ability to git er dun AFFORDABLY ..AHMEN
I usually prefer OEM over aftermarket, but for a BS smog system like this, I'd do aftermarket too. Get yourself a multimeter. They're super affordable. I think I linked one in the video description. We're all about helping people do their own automotive mechanic work. Good luck with completing the repair.
Great video! I am tackling this project this week, can you test the pumps with voltage tester without removing from the wheel well? I’ve been getting code P2420 and P0441 and have trued everything shy of the air injection system and pumps.
I'm not sure if you could simply test the pumps with a voltage tester. You want to apply 12 volt power to them and make sure the pumps are running like they should.
I was just watching your video with the electric locks on the first gen Tacoma I went to same thing through something very similar replacing things checking things turns out it was the switch you might try plugging the right side switch into the left side door and see if that makes a difference if the door works or not, you’ll know if I switch if it has the same plug. I know you made that video two years ago, but I just now seen it.
I had so much trouble getting the driver’s side pipe lined up that I ending snapping off the hose barb off of the driver side valve on the new part. I don’t know if I should try to repair or order another one.
I was able to fix with a hose barb and gasket adhesive. Reassembled cleared codes and no check engine. My truck is still running. Thank you so much for the great video I had to re-check some parts of the video to make sure I was following proper procedure. Very detailed.
I have a 2013 5.7L Tundra and I got a P2445 Code replaced both pumps because I read they had been recalled. After replacing still getting the same code and lack of power symptons any suggestions? Derek, Orlando, FL
So I'm guessing you never actually tested them before replacing them. It could be a problem with the pressure sensor for the secondary air injection system. I just did a quick search and found that.
yes you're correct my bad but at least I've got new pumps that were recalled anyway! There was a pop on shut down a few days ago before my problem set in, so does this help your evaluation?@@TimmyTheToolman
@dereksmith4178 No, it doesn't. This video I made was my one and only experience diagnosing an issue with the secondary air injection system on these Tundras. Like I said, the CEL you have could have multiple causes. I sort of doubt the wiring is the culprit, or the ECU is the culprit. I'd do research to find where that pressure sensor is on the engine and test it. Maybe someone on a forum has documented how to test it. If not, you can buy a 2-day subscription to the Toyota Tech Info website for $25 and download the factory service manual pages you require.
Don't know the percentages but it was enough for Toyota to give an extended warranty on the system, 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever comes first. It can happen to people pretty early less than 100,000 miles but obviously it can happen later as well. Mark's Tundra had around 100,000 miles but his 2008 rig was over 10 years old so he was out of luck. I've heard people say the dealer could charge up to $4000 parts and labor for this job but I've also heard lower numbers as well.
@@TimmyTheToolman The information you just said was correct. I have 2011 with 200k miles and the CEL just came on with error code P2441 "Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Closed Bank 1" and I was quoted $4000 from a Toyota dealership and $3200 from my trusted shop. When I called Toyota they told me to basically go pound sand, even though my Tundra is a Gen2 which earlier Gen2's were covered, they only went to the year 2010. Getting this error code off so I can sell the truck with no CEL. I loved my Tundra but I need more towing and payload capacity for my new camper. We are at the max payload with my wife (140lbs) , myself (200lbs), our two dogs (100 lbs & 85lbs), and the hitch weight. My 1 Ton diesel truck has been booked and is currently being built. Toyota has lost a faithful customer with this design flaw and not backing repair costs. It's not only me they are losing, I'm a fleet manager for a large construction company and I'm currently selling every Toyota truck we have (102). Design flaws are BS and should be covered for the life of the unit. Anyways great video and you helped me save tons of money by walking me through all this step by step. Thanks!!!
@@jaredborell7824 Thanks for the comment Jared. Yeah, it is too bad Toyota isn't owning this mistake. And, it's such an unimportant system to just clean up the emissions during the first few minutes of engine operation. Our smog laws are pretty ridiculous.
Great Video!!!! By chance do you know if there is certain years when this was a problem with the Tundra’s? Did they ever correct it on later models? Thanks
I don't know if it's specific to certain years. Toyota did at some point upgrade the air intake assembly to the one we used in the video to limit the chance of water intrusion into the pump and then to the switching valves.
@@TimmyTheToolman Just got a 2007 and it does not have SAIS issues yet, but I just checked and it has the original intake pipes on it. Do you think simply swapping to the new Toyota intake is enough? Or should I look into relocating the intakes to the engine bay and add K&N filters? To sum up, do you think Toyota's solution is good enough? Thanks Timmy
You must mean the 4.7L 2UZ-FE V8. It's different. Check out this video of us doing a starter replacement on a GX470. It shows the location of all the secondary air injection components. th-cam.com/video/dXpK5YG7-A8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Tgq3IYC5ADAimzTJ
Mine says the 'secondary air injection system relay circuit A' is that an actual relay from the fuse box or is that the name of the valve and the side is A?? Please help
I'm not sure where the relay is. I imagine the relay is what one of both of the electrical connectors for the pumps connect to in the engine compartment. That's my best guess. This was first and only time working on the 5.7 L engine. A way you can figure out what it is, is visit your local Toyota dealer and say you have a check engine light for that relay and ask how much what one would cost and where it's located. They'll show you in the parts schematic.
@@TimmyTheToolman u might be right I got that p0418 too and recently replaced both pumps from under the fender, maybe just need to push the connector harder like u did at the end of your video, tnx in advance
Wow! Youve Won! The most step by step how to replace a part video of the year award🎉💯. Thank you for dummies 😂
Thanks for the nice compliment Preston. I appreciate it! You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
As a hispanic I love your use of the word chingadera perfectly lol!! Nice video and instructions!!
Glad you appreciate my technical terminology. Glad you like the video. Thanks for the comment!
@@TimmyTheToolman Ive added a new word to my vocabulary!!
Your videos are very good. Clear. Loud (good sound). Well lit. Excellent editing (cutting out unnecessary stuff). Keep it up.
Thanks Karl. We appreciate the compliment.
Just want to say thank you for such a thorough video. You have given me confidence to complete this myself and save hundreds if not thousands of dollars. Just take your time and be mindful not to break any of the many delicate electrical connectors that are exposed.
You're very welcome Phillip. Good job saving yourself a bunch of money doing the job yourself. Happy Wrenching!
I feel like I owe you money after this great tutorial. Love how you described in detail how to remove those stubborn electrical connectors and plastic brackets. Im going to test the pumps without removing them if possible. I know my valves have issues so they are going to be replaced. I’ll leave the housing in place for simplicity though.
Your comment is payment enough. Glad our video helped you out. Good luck with the job. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for taking the time and effort to go step by step when replacing the secondary air injection valve. Unfortunately, I also ended up needing the step by step instruction on the pumps as well. As you stated is sometimes the case, water can get in there. Sure enough I shook the pumps and u could hear water inside them so I replaced both. All said took me about 14 hours to get everything done as I am no mechanic. Well worth the time though since I spent about 900 bucks getting it done and Toyota would have charged me around 4 grand. Can’t thank you enough!!!
@Chris-y9r8h Great job Chris getting this done on your own. I'm glad our video helped you save some money. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
So happy I found this video after seeing P2442 on my 2008 tundra. I only did the valve and not the pumps, but it still took me around 6-7 hours. I saw other videos, but only this one gave me the confidence to take on this job. As is the case with all projects, the right tools make all the difference. I had to go with what I had, but that certainly meant more time and curse words. As others mentioned, I was able to get the bolts off the exhaust pipe on the passenger side, but I couldn't get them back in so I ended up taking off the exhaust pipe anyway - as shown in the video. Could have saved an hour just following the video instructions - lesson learned. Having a second set of hands would also be a huge help during certain parts, but I was able to complete it all solo - again, just takes a bit more time. Thank you so much for the video!
You're very welcome, Bobby. It's great to know our video helped you out. Who cares how long it took. You got it done on your own and saved a ton of money. A dealership would have suggested replacing the pumps as well, and you would have spent thousands on this repair. So, I say Great Job Bobby! Happy Wrenching!
I don't even own a Toyota but I was highly impressed by the way you “methodically” explained and demonstrated how to replaced and reassemble the needed components to this Secondary Air Injection System. Ever thought of becoming an instructor?
Thanks for the nice compliment. I appreciate it. No, I never thought about becoming an instructor, but in a way, I guess that's what I do with Sean and others. We instruct people how to perform jobs on their rigs.
Thanks for this detailed walk through! It gave me the confidence to get this done myself. 270,000 and going strong again
You're very welcome Taylor. Great to know our video helped you get the job done. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for your step by step video. As a less than skilled mechanic, I was able to do this and my truck actually worked.
You're very welcome William and it's great to hear you were successful using our video as a tutorial. Great job!
Thank you for such a great detailed tutorial. I was able to do the whole job in about 7 hours, with some fumbling around. Now my 2010 has all new OEM pumps, valve body, and intake and you saved me the $700 the dealer wanted for labor.
Great job doing the job yourself. I'm glad our video helped you out. Happy Wrenching!
I'm glad this video was made, I replaced the pumps 2 years ago and now the switch valve needs replacement as I text. The temperature is 100 degrees here in Louisiana. Thanks
Good luck with the job and drink lots of water.
Awesome video, saved me a ton of money.... although I'll admit you made a few of those steps look easy! Getting the harness off the intake manifold was brutal.
Thanks William. We can't show the full struggle when making videos because it would make the video way longer than our videos already are. I'm happy our video helped you get the job done and saved you a bunch of money in the process. Happy Wrenching!
What a phenomenal video! Man this really bailed me out for getting this job done myself. Your method and high level of detail along with some humor speckled in made this job almost (I emphasize almost) enjoyable 🙂 Something to share: I was able to get the troublesome EGR exhaust pipe bolt that butts up against the engine head (shown at 41:14 of your video) with a mini box-in wrench that came with a Kobalt toolset I just happened to have. I was doing this job alone so I wanted to give this a shot and it worked albeit it wasn't easy. If you have a mini box-in that will clear the very narrow space between the bolt head and the engine head you can break it free then use the open end and then your fingers to back it out until it pushes up against the engine head. You will not be able to completely remove the bolt until you free up the whole unit and then you gotta tilt it up so you can finish backing out the bolt to ultimately free the air injection pump from the connection. The EGR pipe has a very small amount of flex capability (like any long pipe would LOL) that will allow you to slightly push it toward the firewall to slide the bolt out. Of course be very careful with flexing the EGR pipe to do this...but it can be done. On re-install with the new pump I set the pump down in between the EGR connections on each side with all four mounting bolts completely removed. At this point I had to put some pressure on the EGR pipe back toward the firewall to allow me to slide the bolt back in its hole and then thread it back into the pump mount. I want to say that this was NOT EASY. It just worked and it is worth sharing for those doing the job alone. If you have a helper who can help align the lower EGR mount on re-installation that is probably the easiest way to do this job. Thanks again for doing this video and helping guys like me out!
You're very welcome, Stephen. Thanks for sharing some helpful information for others to benefit from.
This is the way all videos should be. Thank you. Very knowledgable.
Thanks for the compliment David. You're very welcome.
I used this video to do this exact fix for my 2010 Tundra. Absolutely amazing tutorial. Thank yall so much for helping me get my truck back on the road and save some money
Thanks for the compliment. It's nice to know our video helped you get this repair done. You're very welcome!
One of the best car repair videos I have seen on TH-cam
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it!
Superior video! I am in the middle of doing this job on my 2010 Tundra. Without this video I would have struggled especially on the wiring harness bolt behind the intake. So detailed and comprehensive!
@@derekcapitano5257 that’s the name of the game for us bro! We try not to leave any details out. Swing back around when you’re done and share your experience and hopefully success with us via another comment!
- Sean
Huge Success Timmy! I appreciate all of your help!
Also, I just watched your rear axle bearing replacement video and realized you are a Firefighter. I retired 2.5 years ago after 30 years of service here in West Central Florida. I was passionate about the job but an highly enjoying retirement.
@@derekcapitano5257 I just retired 2 months ago. I miss the job at some level, but there was quite a bit of B.S. that I don't miss. When there were true emergencies I was helping with, I felt satisfied with the job. Unfortunately, the high majority of our call volume is not emergencies. I miss the adrenaline pumping calls, I miss driving the fire engine, and I miss a lot of the guys. It feels weird to be retired, but time doesn't stop for anyone and it was my time to go and let some young guy take my place. I plan on enjoying my retirement, and I already am.
@@derekcapitano5257 I'm happy to hear you had success with the help of our video. Good job!
Extremely well done video. Appreciate the attention to detail and thoroughness. Also extremely easy to understand and no distracting music.
Thanks for the nice compliment David. We appreciate it!
Great informative video as always. After watching this I appreciate the simplicity of my Tacoma’s 3.4l.
Lol…”known for a having a long pipe”
Thanks!
Wow! Thanks for the very generous tip William. Sean and I really appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
William!!! Thanks for this generous donation, the largest we’ve received! Would love to send you some stickers and patches. Please leave your email so we can communicate and get your address!
- Sean
Best video I've seen, changing water pump snapped those air injection hose , so gotta change those air injection hose now. Thanks you for great thorough video
Thanks Jake and you're very welcome. Good luck with the job.
Did cutting the hose make your check engine come on along with trac off? Asking because I just changed alternator and was pushing the hoses all over the place
@outdoorexplore4034 Just happened ! Got bypass kit and shut all the crap off. Yes 4 low and engine light traction light flash.
I always check with you and your videos before I tackle any Toyota job. Thank you so much for always being there for us!
You're very welcome. As time goes on, we'll have more content for the 3UR-FE engine.
@@TimmyTheToolman I love working on all Toyota's . . especially 5.7.
The Japs got it down with mechanic friendly engineering . .
Worked great for my 2011 tundra. I ended up being able to take off the pipe from the valve peice without taking it off from the wheel well section. Amazing instructions
Good Job! I'm glad our video helped you out.
Probably the best tutorial video I have seen on this subject. Good job, thank you.
Wow, thanks for the compliment, hope we got a sub from you! 😉
best repair manual ever.
Thanks for the nice compliment Neal. We appreciate it!
I watched a video by car care nut where he said they corrected this failure in later years by spinning the pump up for a second after shutdown to clear any water buildup. thanks for your breakdowns!
I don't know how spinning the pump some more would help. It's the pumps sending water to the switching valves that's the problem. Toyota addressed the water intrusion into the pumps by redesigning the air intake tube that we showed in the video. Whether the new design works as intended is the question. Most people that have had issues with the secondary air injection system, at least from my experience, had a switching valve failure. The pumps were fine. Maybe the theory is having the pumps run for a second helps drive moisture out of the switching valve.
We need a follow up from Mark! Regardless, excellent video and step by step. I’m confidant I can make this repair. You explain things VERY well. Thank you!
I haven't heard anything from Mark, so I'm assuming the repair has held up. Good to hear you appreciate the level of detail we offer in this video. You're very welcome.
I can't thank you enough for sharing this knowledge. God bless you.
You're very welcome. Thanks for commenting.
This is how all DIY videos should be made, clear visual perspective, articulate speaking and humor to get our mind off the frustration of car repairs. I'm getting ready to tackle this job, my 2010 Sequoia 5.7L has a code P2433 "Pressure sensor circuit high Bank1" i'm assuming this is what i need to replace, the pressure sensors sit on top of the diverter valves assembly right? Not a lot of info out there but i'm assuming this is the case. Thanks for the video fellas, keep it coming! Thumbs up and subscribed.
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it. I don't know if the pressure sensors are part of the switching valve assembly. This is something I never researched. If you find a definitive answer, please comment back and let us know.
You know, I might still have the Toyota FSM pages for this job on my computer. I'll take a look and let you know if I find anything regarding the pressure sensors.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks again for the DIY video, I was able to replace the valves today. Truck drives now without limp mode and seems to be working like normal. Before replacing the valves truck would not get out of limp mode, you can’t even clear the code it just stays on. As soon as I put these in the light went away on its own and truck is good again. I think it’s safe to say the pressure sensors are on this unit. So anyone with a code P2433 replace this with OEM Toyota parts and it should fix it. Costs $300 for the part and 2 hours of your time if you follow this video
@@vincephan344 Hey Vince, I'm happy to hear the repair worked for you. I'm guessing you're right that the pressure sensors are on the switching valves. That's good to know. Great job getting this repair done on your own. You saved a ton of money. A Toyota dealer would have suggested replacing all the components and charged you around $3-4k to perform this job.
Awesome video, very detail. Love the step-by-step instructions. Thank you so much, you saved me a lot of money, and I enjoy learning to do things myself!!!!
@abdulmoussa2310 Thanks for the compliment, and you're very welcome. I'm glad our video enabled you to perform the job yourself, and you save a bunch of money. Yes, learning to be self-sufficient and get things done yourself is a great thing. Happy Wrenching!
all good accept those are not egr pipes, they are air injection pipes. thanks for the very detailed tutorial. keep up the good work!
All good except for your use of accept. Gotcha!
great video, I've done the intake manifold for the knocking sensor, so I will attempt to replace the air injection valves. Thank you
You're welcome.
Thanks for the excellent video. I checked the pumps just by applying voltage to the connectors - without taking the pumps out of the wheel well.
About the rear pipe/valve bolt that hits the manifold (won't come out because it bumps) - it can be loosened, and then remove the 3 bolts that hold the valve set, then you have enough "play" to get that bolt the rest of the way out.
Very fiddle - y, but can be done.
I got a little careless when torquing the intake manifold down - I lost a 12mm deep socket down the back somewhere, but a small price to pay compared to paying the dealer. Note: use tape to secure your socket to the ratchet when tightening the intake manifold down - if loose it can bump off and fall deep into the engine! 😏
Thanks for sharing your success story even though there was a minor mishap with a socket. Happy Wrenching!
Amazing thorough video, thank you very much, saved me a grand or so in labour....
Thanks for the compliment, and you're very welcome. Great job doing it yourself and saving a ton of money. Happy Wrenching!
What a great video with such clear instruction. THANK YOU!
Thanks for the compliment. You're very welcome!
You are my teacher I learn alot from you thank you very much,
I'm happy to hear you're leaning a lot from our channel. You're very welcome.
I like how you explain everything, good job my friend.
Thanks Jose!
Thank you so much for this video. Fixing the darn leaking valley plate was an exercise in patience (and cussing). :). You rock!
@MarkFeferman You're very welcome Mark. Great job getting it done.
this must be the best video ever, step by step thanks, it help alot ,i need to try and fix it myself because the dealer try to rub our money 😂 . the dealer some people that rob customers, thanks for your video
Follow our video and do it yourself! Don’t let the dealer take you to the cleaners!
- Sean
Hey man I don't know if you read the comments on your videos but I just completed this job on my 07 tundra. Took me 8 hours which sucks but if it wasn't for this video it would've cost almost 10 times as much. Thanks boss.
We read most of the comments on our channel. Great to hear our video helped you get the job done and you saved a bunch of money in the process. Good Job and Happy Wrenching!
wow a video that shows from start to finish thxs
That’s the name of the game for us my friend! Be sure to give the video a like if it helped you out and if you wanna see more of this good stuff give us a subscribe!
Cheers!
- Sean
Thanks for the video appreciate 👍🇵🇷
You're very welcome Roberto.
Fantastic and so detailed explanation of this work procedure. I thank you very much for the video.
Thanks for the compliment and you're very welcome.
Just did mine, ur vid was amazingly helpful and made is so simple, thanks for the details, specs and what not, hope it works, my pums worked, but the valves did not, when i went to start it, it hickuped, and didnt hear the pumps kick on, hopefully thwy will in the morning...
Also i ended up getting all the parts on ebay, already had the pumps working, and snorkles, so valve assembly, gaskets, tubes all for $230...
@@JETSPEED117 You're welcome. I'm glad you found our video helpful.
Super helpful repair mods!
4.7 litre engine is so much easier to replace. located on bank 1 and 2 outside of engine. Im replacing my third one on bank 2 but next time it goes im buying the bypass kit. For some reason these after market injection valves dont last long . And yes I replaced air pump also . Great video
Thanks for sharing what it's like on the 4.7 liter engine. Glad you like our video.
How do you know which one is bank one and bank 2?
@@trinidadzamora7978 By code number.
You helped work on my Tundra, even though it was 2000 miles away. Rear axel bearing
Best video ever...great job fellas❤
@@honestguy6345 Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it!
Thanx man…. You saved my bacon on this… $2200 bacons!
Nice job, bud!
You're very welcome! Sean and I are all about empowering people to handle their own automotive work so they can be self-sufficient and save boat loads of money.
Most appreciated you Timmy , you da man !!!
Thanks Joshua. Hope our video helped you out.
very well explained thank you so much.
Thanks for the compliment and you're very welcome.
Thanks 👍 my master. You teach us.
You're very welcome Student.
Thank you, very helpful
You're very welcome. Glad you found out video helpful.
Sir, very well done video. Thank you.
Thanks and you're welcome.
Very comprehensive and detailed.
Thanks for recognizing the effort we put into this video.
Tanks you my friend very good video they can help me for my 2005 2006 2010 Toyota Tundra.tanks you very much Fresno California
You're very welcome Jose.
Thank you very good video well explained 👍
You're welcome Allan. Glad you like the video.
Gooden Tight.... FANTASTIC JOB, WELL CAST. 👍👍👍
Thanks Santiago! We're glad you like it! Happy Wrenching!
Wow! This is such a great video! Thanks for making it!
Thanks and you're welcome.
Great video!!!
Great video, think i might have to do this. No check engine light but seems to be in limp mode
We're glad you liked the video. Good luck with the job, and I hope it fixes your limp mode issue.
Thanks for the Video Greetings from Fremont California just subscribed I have a 2011 Toyota Tundra 5.7L Limited Platinum 4x4 Love this Machine Just got a P2447 changed both pumps I did not know how to test the pumps thanks to you now I do. Code still shows up so next I am going to tackle the Air Injection System Valve. Just sucks the 4.7L has the valves on the outside of the manifold and 5.7L has them buried inside the intake manifold play hard fix hard great job and thanks again guy's keep up the great vids 🤙🌅🛻🧰
You're welcome. Good luck with the valve replacement. It's not a hard job, just takes a little time. Happy Wrenching!
Yeah fantastic work 👏
Thanks for the compliment!
Great video
Thanks Jay!
Thank you for this!
You're welcome!
Excellent job
Thanks!
oh crap, that's a lot of labor to get to the valves. My 12 tundra just threw the code, not sure if it's the injection motors or the valves under the manifold. Mine has a TRD supercharger and a completely different manifold cover. Do you happen to know if it's similar under there as it looks on the one you're filming? btw absolutely fantastic attention to detail ! Thanks
You have the same engine so it should look the same under the intake manifold. Glad you appreciate the detail we offer in this video. Good luck with the job.
Isn’t doing the Hewitt bypass easier, cheaper and safe
I've heard about this and I told Mark about it. Mark chose not to cheat the system so he could pass a smog check. He wanted to fix the problem using OEM parts.
@@TimmyTheToolmanI acutally did it and passed smog in So Cal no problem
I got one and didn't work for mine.
Thank you the very detailed video! Ran into it because I have a P2433 code on my ‘07 Tundra 5.7L.
Not CEL for the valves but it’s related to them so will be replacing for piece of mind and hopefully those two connectors are the sensors (?)
I tried ordering from your links but unable to, getting bunch of strange info like one said ‘doesn’t ship to my address’.
You're very welcome. Hope the job goes smooth for you. That's weird you were having trouble with the links. But, you have the part numbers so you'll be able to find an alternative to buy from. Happy Wrenching!
Did replacing the valve fix the P2433 code? I have the same code in a 2007 5.7L Tundra with 112K miles on it. Code is for the pressure sensor circuit on Bank 1.
can I use my Ryobi tools instead of milwaukee? Thanks for detailed video!
You can use whatever tools you want. All my cordless tools are made by either Milwaukee or Dewalt. By the way, I caught the humor and hint that I mentioned Milwaukee too many times in the video. In all our videos, I let people know the exact tools we are using throughout the job. You're welcome!
Where can i buy the new and improved rubber piece so water wont get in? Whats it called aswell 28:20
It's actually a plastic piece and it is linked in the video description. You just have to click on "More"to expand the video description.
Would it be a good idea to proactively replace the updated pipes with the water “guard” to prevent the pumps from pushing water to the valves or will the valves inevitably fail regardless?
No issues with my 2018 yet. Thank you for the advice.
Great video.
@StephenSmith-it5zy That might not be a bad idea, but if it were me, I'd probably wait for a problem to arise to mess with it. Maybe you'll never have to deal with it.
Copy. Thank you Sir! Happy to be a new subscriber.
@StephenSmith-it5zy You're welcome and welcome to the channel!
does the p0419 code mean one of the pumps or the check valve?
I looked up that code, and it appears it could have multiple causes. So, I'm not in a position to give you a definite answer.
Great video. Thank you so much.
You're very welcome.
thankyou for your video pedro from tulare ca thankyou againg gad beless you
You're welcome Pedro. I fought two fires in the Tulare area. One started by an air plane crash and the other started by a lightning strike.
Is the coolants level low 🤔
Yes, his coolant was low. We mentioned this to Mark. We didn't have any of the pink Toyota coolant on hand to top it off for him.
How about testing ecm and drivers
We don't have instructions for testing the ECM. This is our only video on this subject for troubleshooting and fixing the secondary air injection system on the 5.7L V8 engine.
@TimmyTheToolman hey buddy ur a toyota tech, this trk comes in what wld u do, service data ok, pumps run, check valves wrk according to test, has new Toyota bank 1 driver, cycle key no power leaving driver going to pump any help, not seeing pin out to test ecm to see if it's ground side switched, need lil help, 2007 toyota tundra, 4.7 has one pump under manifold, and one pump rt wheelhouse.
@@charlesmecum5009 I'm a DIYer, not a Toyota Tech. If the check valve is testing out OK, I don't know what would be next. So with the switching valve test, you can hear or see the valve opening and closing or is it just some ohms resistance test? From my experience, which is limited, it's usually the switching valve that is the problem.
@TimmyTheToolman well I'm a fixxer not a delete to fix problem guy, was hoping some toyota techs follow and might read and help, im older not a computer guy meaning all the social platforms and stuff, not a guy just hanging out on a phone or PC lol so don't know the PC lingo lol. But did enjoy vid
is there way to do away with svc system and truck runs okay without any issues
Look up Hewitt Technologies Bypass Kit.
Hi! I didn’t mark the hoses and forgot which hose goes where up top closer to the engine not the connection into the hose itself. Would I be able to email you a pic ?
All I have as a reference is this video and another video I did on this engine replacing the valve cover gaskets. So, I'd have the same information as you. Maybe the valve cover gasket video series will help you out. It's two parts. This is Part 1: th-cam.com/video/ASOIvxWogWI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Qi7lLKzEZAxtBN_0
Timmy,
I finished up the secondary valve swap out late tonight. The video was a great help. I thought the entire job was smooth and I didn’t have any major issues until I cranked the truck. Although I no longer have the codes for secondary valves, the engine is going crazy first really low rpms and then high rpms the really low and then back to high and then back to low for several cycles until the engine dies. I double and tripled everything. Tomorrow I am going to take the intake manifold off again and make sure the center electrical connector between the secondary air valves is properly seated. The vehicle almost has 300k miles. The throttle body has never been clean and I first thought my clean throttle body was causing the issue but after 3 cycles of the engine dying out I stopped cranking. Just curious if you had any thoughts or suggestions. Thanks, Clay
The only suggestion is I can make is double check your work. You probably forgot to connect something.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yep, the hose that was 'fighting me' (at 31:47) was the culprit. When I disconnected it, the other side of the hose also came loose. Because it was buried in foam, I didn't notice it had disconnected. I double-checked all my work and found it after about 30 minutes. No more error codes, and everything is back to normal. Cheers! A beer is headed your way.
@@claysmith428 That's awesome Clay. I'm stoked you figured it out. Good job!
Great video, getting ready to do this on my 2013 4.6L V8 Tundra. Having trouble finding the exact part number for the secondary air injection valve assembly. Any help is appreciated!
Not sure about the part number for your engine.
Bank 1 PN 25702-38050 Bank 2 PN 25701-38100 Made by Toyota Denso. Don't buy Chinese made Dorman. They are junk and die after a couple of weeks. I made that mistake.
Great Video. One question. So mine just turned on. But I won't have time to replace until the weekend. Is it safe to still drive my truck? Code P2442 secondary air injection valve stuck open bank 2
Yes, it's safe to drive. On some vehicles, the computer can put the engine into limp mode, but I don't think that's the case with this engine. The guy I helped in the video had that code for a while before I helped him and he was able to drive the truck no problem.
On mine it did lose power. Seems limp. Lol. I just want to get it to my house. About 30 miles away
@@cvj281 Yeah, you can get it home.
Did you replace valves with Toyota OEM Denso or Dorman?
Toyota OEM
Thank you! You referred to the hard lines coming off the valves you removed under the intake manifold as “egr” if I recall correctly? Did you mean SAIS? I don’t think the 3UR-FE engines have egr? Tks!
I'm not sure what I said in the video. Whatever information I used came from the factory service manual.
Thank you very much for the great video. Great details and informative. Question, Where can I find Toyota Air Pump Inlet - 17621-0S012 (new design trumpets)? Having hard time to locate it. Thank you.
We're happy you like the video. Just do a search with the part number. I just did and saw lots of options on where to buy it from.
So sir when you opened up the 2 valves and showed that the were stuck open/closed. Can they not be worked/repaired at to make them function like they are supposed to?
Thanks.
I'm not sure if they can be repaired. It's something I've never researched or tried.
I doubt it. Rubber seals will be totally gone. This is unfortunate because these parts are expensive. Also, if you buy cheap Chinese aftermarket you will be changing them very soon again. Don't ask how I know that.
Does this have any issues with engine hasitation ?
No, he didn't. This system is for emissions and it really doesn't so a whole lot other than cause people grief when one of the components of the system fails and they get a check engine light.
Enjoy your channel. I have a ?? Related to my 2001 Toyota Tacoma, V6. Bought 2 years ago. When scan fuel trims, only shows one bank, bank one. Any ideas why?
There is definitely two banks, Bank 1 is for the passenger side and Bank 2 is the driver side. I don't know why you scanner would only show one.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for the reply
Wondering why the price varies drastically for a single replacemet pump around 500$ for a genuine toyota... or 100$ for 2 pumps ...its essentially the same part so why would i spend 1000 when i can get it for 100 and its no wonder the shop close by wants 3000$ to fix it. I got the pumps out but they dont even respond or kick on when i hooked them to my battery ...and sadly i do not have a multimeter .
Anyways ...great video super thorough ....doing the lords work out here my brotha ....god bless ... things seem to be moving in a difection where its like they dont want you to be able to fix it yourself so a big thanks for making it possible for people who are clueless abouf cars ( me) the ability to git er dun AFFORDABLY ..AHMEN
I usually prefer OEM over aftermarket, but for a BS smog system like this, I'd do aftermarket too. Get yourself a multimeter. They're super affordable. I think I linked one in the video description.
We're all about helping people do their own automotive mechanic work. Good luck with completing the repair.
Is the procedure same for 2010 Tundra?
Yes, it would be the same procedure. Good luck with the job!
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you!
@@cornertankcorner You're very welcome.
Great video! I am tackling this project this week, can you test the pumps with voltage tester without removing from the wheel well? I’ve been getting code P2420 and P0441 and have trued everything shy of the air injection system and pumps.
I'm not sure if you could simply test the pumps with a voltage tester. You want to apply 12 volt power to them and make sure the pumps are running like they should.
I was just watching your video with the electric locks on the first gen Tacoma I went to same thing through something very similar replacing things checking things turns out it was the switch you might try plugging the right side switch into the left side door and see if that makes a difference if the door works or not, you’ll know if I switch if it has the same plug. I know you made that video two years ago, but I just now seen it.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I had so much trouble getting the driver’s side pipe lined up that I ending snapping off the hose barb off of the driver side valve on the new part. I don’t know if I should try to repair or order another one.
That's unfortunate that happened. I don't know how you could fix that.
I was able to fix with a hose barb and gasket adhesive. Reassembled cleared codes and no check engine. My truck is still running. Thank you so much for the great video I had to re-check some parts of the video to make sure I was following proper procedure. Very detailed.
@@millo9496 Good job Adam! You're very welcome. I'm glad our video helped you out. Happy Wrenching!
I have a 2013 5.7L Tundra and I got a P2445 Code replaced both pumps because I read they had been recalled. After replacing still getting the same code and lack of power symptons any suggestions? Derek, Orlando, FL
So I'm guessing you never actually tested them before replacing them. It could be a problem with the pressure sensor for the secondary air injection system. I just did a quick search and found that.
yes you're correct my bad but at least I've got new pumps that were recalled anyway! There was a pop on shut down a few days ago before my problem set in, so does this help your evaluation?@@TimmyTheToolman
@dereksmith4178 No, it doesn't. This video I made was my one and only experience diagnosing an issue with the secondary air injection system on these Tundras. Like I said, the CEL you have could have multiple causes. I sort of doubt the wiring is the culprit, or the ECU is the culprit. I'd do research to find where that pressure sensor is on the engine and test it. Maybe someone on a forum has documented how to test it. If not, you can buy a 2-day subscription to the Toyota Tech Info website for $25 and download the factory service manual pages you require.
Thank you! @@TimmyTheToolman
What percentage of vehicles made have this failure and on average how many miles can owners experience this? what is the dealer cost for this repair
Don't know the percentages but it was enough for Toyota to give an extended warranty on the system, 10 years or 150,000 miles, whichever comes first. It can happen to people pretty early less than 100,000 miles but obviously it can happen later as well. Mark's Tundra had around 100,000 miles but his 2008 rig was over 10 years old so he was out of luck. I've heard people say the dealer could charge up to $4000 parts and labor for this job but I've also heard lower numbers as well.
@@TimmyTheToolman The information you just said was correct. I have 2011 with 200k miles and the CEL just came on with error code P2441 "Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve Stuck Closed Bank 1" and I was quoted $4000 from a Toyota dealership and $3200 from my trusted shop. When I called Toyota they told me to basically go pound sand, even though my Tundra is a Gen2 which earlier Gen2's were covered, they only went to the year 2010. Getting this error code off so I can sell the truck with no CEL. I loved my Tundra but I need more towing and payload capacity for my new camper. We are at the max payload with my wife (140lbs) , myself (200lbs), our two dogs (100 lbs & 85lbs), and the hitch weight. My 1 Ton diesel truck has been booked and is currently being built. Toyota has lost a faithful customer with this design flaw and not backing repair costs. It's not only me they are losing, I'm a fleet manager for a large construction company and I'm currently selling every Toyota truck we have (102). Design flaws are BS and should be covered for the life of the unit. Anyways great video and you helped me save tons of money by walking me through all this step by step. Thanks!!!
@@jaredborell7824 Thanks for the comment Jared. Yeah, it is too bad Toyota isn't owning this mistake. And, it's such an unimportant system to just clean up the emissions during the first few minutes of engine operation. Our smog laws are pretty ridiculous.
Great Video!!!! By chance do you know if there is certain years when this was a problem with the Tundra’s? Did they ever correct it on later models? Thanks
I don't know if it's specific to certain years. Toyota did at some point upgrade the air intake assembly to the one we used in the video to limit the chance of water intrusion into the pump and then to the switching valves.
@@TimmyTheToolman ok thank you for the quick response, I appreciate it!
@@DaShK325 You're very welcome!
@@TimmyTheToolman Just got a 2007 and it does not have SAIS issues yet, but I just checked and it has the original intake pipes on it. Do you think simply swapping to the new Toyota intake is enough? Or should I look into relocating the intakes to the engine bay and add K&N filters? To sum up, do you think Toyota's solution is good enough?
Thanks Timmy
@@Shrek-is-Love I don't know if the Toyota solution is enough. I don't have the data to make an opinion.
What is the cost of parts and labor?
Links to all the parts replaced are listed in the video description. How much a shop charges for labor is going to depend on the shop.
This same for2012 4.6 v8 tundra?
You must mean the 4.7L 2UZ-FE V8. It's different. Check out this video of us doing a starter replacement on a GX470. It shows the location of all the secondary air injection components. th-cam.com/video/dXpK5YG7-A8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Tgq3IYC5ADAimzTJ
4.6 is different. Two separate valves, one on each side of the engine. Timmy, 4.7 is an older motor.
Mine says the 'secondary air injection system relay circuit A' is that an actual relay from the fuse box or is that the name of the valve and the side is A?? Please help
I'm not sure where the relay is. I imagine the relay is what one of both of the electrical connectors for the pumps connect to in the engine compartment. That's my best guess. This was first and only time working on the 5.7 L engine. A way you can figure out what it is, is visit your local Toyota dealer and say you have a check engine light for that relay and ask how much what one would cost and where it's located. They'll show you in the parts schematic.
@@TimmyTheToolman u might be right I got that p0418 too and recently replaced both pumps from under the fender, maybe just need to push the connector harder like u did at the end of your video, tnx in advance
@@quiquelincolnable No problem. Good luck.