FLINTLOCK LOCK DISASSEMBLY
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ย. 2024
- Correctly Disassembling your Flintlock Rifle, Fowler, or Pistol's Lock.
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Nice video on how to disable lock. Thank for your videos and instructions on flintlocks. I have learned so much.
Bob I still come back to your videos on the how-to’s when I need to get something done on my musket.
Thanks for the great videos, I hope you’re doing well. I know from the last channel update you have quite the fight ahead of you. I hope you’re winning.
You sure make that look VERY easy! Its good to know if I ever want to take one apart. Thanks for sharing my friend.......
Thanks Mark!
I honestly think this was my favorite video you have done thus far. I don't think I have seen anyone break it down and make it as simple as you did. I will remember this video for sure in the future.
Steven Bowen Thanks Steven. I appreciate it.
Good video. Can't wait to see your Fowler. Thanks
Thanks! Cant wait to start it!
Re assembly would be very helpful since I was able to get mine apart and cannot get it back together. I couldn’t compress the seat spring properly nor can I compress the mainspring properly. I’m using the simple track of the wolf vice clamp
Bob: in 7 to 10 days your mailbox at home will be filled with partially reassembled locks (with fly missing) looking for help. In all seriousness the first video on locks I have ever sen that was worth watching. Good job!
Mike McGuire lol. Thanks Mike. Also, are you thinking about building that Southern PoBoy you’ve been talking about or buying? If building I have the Mike Miller Daniel Boone build series on DVD. It about 6 hours long and a ‘must watch’ before you start. Anyway, I’ll send it over if you haven’t seen it and want to watch it before you start. 👍🏻
I really enjoy your tutorials, I always come away having learned something. Looking forward to many more. Thanks
Thanks a lot JJ!
Thanks for a good video . I need to replace a broken frizzed spring on a L and r lock and clean mine.
Fantastic video 👍🏻
Good job Bob, good job!
Thanks John, I appreciate it!
👍 excellent, thank you!
I have to say that I'm happy you started this channel as I'm very new to black powder/ flinters. I bought my Charleville repro locally, but finding someone to supervise me in getting started has been impossible. The local mountain man group is hard to make contact with. I would like to ask a question, if you don't mind; How do I determine the correct size ball for my .69 caliber smoothbore? Is it ok to just mic the muzzle diameter, or do I need to measure further down the bore? how much smaller than the bore diameter should the ball be? Any advice you could offer would be great. Thanks, I'll be watching. Butch.
Hey Winfield. First of all I suggest you go to the AmericanLongrifles Forum. There is a very active group there and a large and active 'Black Powder Shooting' sub-forum there that has continual discussions about ball dimeters, etc. I usually mic at the bore and if it's say .69 I will buy .685, .68, .675 balls from Track of the Wolf and test them bare balled, in a paper cartridge or patched. Generally I will load the tightest possible bare ball with a shotgun card or hank of Tow over the top to keep the ball against the powder. That load can quickly get hard to push down when the bore is dirty though and take lots of swabbing to load. You will end up, i think with several sizes as the tightest bare ball load will not work with paper cartridges and you will find some combination of grains of powder and ball size, bare or otherwise, will shoot most accurately in your gun. Each gun performs better with a different load and finding that load is part of the fun. I keep 3 sizes of balls for each gun. I like to quick load looser bare balls and plink at 35-40y or so and develop the most accurate hunting load at 50y as well. Those are often cartridges or paper patched but not always.
Feel free to ask any questions you would like. I am on the ALR forum under my name. Bob McBride. Hope to see you there.
Bob
@@BlackPowderTV Thanks guy, will do.
That was a perfect explanation. Mostly I wrap the screws and the fly in masking tape so they dont get lost. A magnetic bowl is posible too. Are you planing to make some videos about the fowler build ?
Homemade History Thanks! I use tape as well if it’s going to be apart for any length of time. Yes, I think I’ll do some videos of the build. Maybe a dozen or so. There are already really good build series on TH-cam, including yours and Bill Raby’s, so I’ll probably do just a highlight series.
@@BlackPowderTV That will be nice too. The carving on Bills Isaak Haines rifle is outstanding good
Homemade History Yep, he’s doing a fine job.
I really enjoyed this video, I picked up a neglected pistol the frizzen is very sticky, the trigger has an enormous trigger pull, I am hoping a good cleaning does the trick if not Perhaps you can show some trigger polishing
Thanks a lot for the kind words. Great video idea. 👍🏻
I'm anxious to see you build that one.
Thanks Bill, I'm anxious to get started. It'll be a composite more than likely but I do have a Mike Brooks to use as a template and Mike has also promised me a paper template and some cast parts from his shop. I have the Kibler lock, the wood from Allen Martin, and a few sets of Bob Roller triggers, though I think I will hand forge my own trigger this time around. BTW, if you haven't seen Mike Miller's Daniel Boone build series on DVD you have got to check it out. He's unbelievable. I have a copy and will send it over to you if you want to borrow it.....
@@BlackPowderTV I just sent you a message on ALR
I had to file the bit from my Brownell screwdriver kit that closely matched the flint jaw screw. It would fit but the curve prevented the blade reaching all the way to the bottom of the slot. If I didn’t, the bit would only go about a quarter down, which means if I wasn’t really careful, I would messed up the slot sooner or later.
That set i show in the vid is the Chapman Master Set 5575. The Chapman's seem to have longer parallel edges than most and fit well in the cock jaw screws, even though i will often file the screw slots wider as some are ridiculously thin.... Thanks!
Great video, I just found your channel recently...love your content. I have a question, I have a flintlock that was built by someone else as a kit gun. The set trigger requires to trigger pulls to set. I’ve been looking around on the web but haven’t found concrete info on this
Requires two trigger pulls to set?
Really good. That looks like the L&R Queen Anne. Is there anything on an L&R that I won’t have on my Chambers Early English?
It’s one of Jim Kibler’s new CNC English locks and no I think the Chambers is superior. 👍🏻
What kind of grease will you use if any on reassembly? My L and R looks like the used white lithium grease on it from factory,
i bought a Lyman great plains rifle kit about 8 mos. ago. the lock looks pretty jinky to me. the main spring is a coil spring, and doesn't seem to have much tention on it. can that be adjusted or do i have to change it out? thanks, great info in your vids.
No much adjusting that can be done Bob. You may be able to source a stronger coil spring. I think L&R makes a replacement that has a traditional mainspring. 👍🏻
@@BlackPowderTV thanks
where do you buy lock spring clamp from?
Trackofthewolf. Thanks!
What is your procedure for recompressing the main spring?
I try to leave it in the clamp most of the time but when I take it out, like in the video, I just bear down on the spring clamp to bring it back to enough compression to get it reinstalled. You may need needle nose pliers to assist you in turning the clamp.
Ever have the cock slip? If the fly can't move freely because of grease and dirt build up, will it make the cock slip?
I have had cock slip but not from the fly. The fly basically lets the seer slip past the half cock notch on the down stroke. Once you get to full cock you are past the fly and past any interference it can impart on the cock. Thanks for the comment Johnny!