Mark Kasprzak mate - literally that’s what keeps me going. Kids asleep on board and me either on the roof or on the deck outside looking back at the crappy scraping days and falling through the floor moments !!
Hi James. WOW I feel for you on this one. All your hard work and now you've got some more 😩 But I'm sure it'll be worth it in the end 👍🏻 Keep going as soon you'll be doing more rewarding bits like the nice finishes of the interior 👍🏻 Keep drinking brews 🤣 Cheers Stevie 😎
CAUTION: Every darl spot or gab in the (thin) foam where you can touch metal will create condensation / moisture there when the cold air near the exposed metal comes in contact with the warm air of the surface of the back of the wall covering. That condensate will collect, drip and eventually discolor and damage the wall covering. Best to use cans of expanding spray foam and fill in every dark / exposed spot... or else you will soon get and see condensed water damage on the walls and flooring (water fllows downward). This situation with foam insulation is the cause and bain of narrowboats where you see water damage / sweating marks on wood surfaces... that suggest leaks but they aren't. Instead they are as mentioned above: condensate caused by exposed metal. You boat looks like there are many such spots and future water marks.
#WTFOOK SNAFUWORLD thanks for the tips there. I was going to have a thorough inspection once trimmed back. I’ve bought a few cans of closed cell foam to fill in some gaps in the future to avoid exactly what you’ve spoken about. Thanks
Just found your channel James and am working through from the start. You're doing a cracking job. Would it have been better/easier to insulate with celotex boards? a) would have a constant thickness and b) not have the hassle of stripping the foam off battens. Looking forward to watching the rest of them. Keep going.
T'airn'KA I agree, there are bits on the thin side but you wouldn’t want them flush to the battens as ideally you want an air gap for added insulation. The bits which are thin I’ll top up .
austin vieth because I didn’t have time to mask over them all with tape - also they were on a time restraint and could really wait for me to do any more prep. I disagree it’s too thin. It’s 20mm at its thinnest albeit there are one or two spots where I’ll apply some more
think it would have taken less time and mess just fitting your own insulation. would have thought the insulation on the roll would 1 be cheaper and 2 less messy and you could have just put it behind the battons
Put it this way, I have seen much much worse. An electric blade would have been good for this. I have seen people tape all the battons before this so that it comes off easier
James one of the best things to remove foam is a Multi-tool with the offset scraper blade. This setup removes the foam as it were better. Scraper blade (www.dewalt.com/products/accessories/oscillating-accessories/oscillating-flexible-scraper-blade/dwa4218) . TH-cam video. ( th-cam.com/video/2ul09m-AI5w/w-d-xo.html )
I'd not be happy with that, its uneven, there are gaps that will go rusty an they seem to have gone out of their way to spray the batons rather than the boat.
Mark Bond I know !!! It’s well annoying - still it needs another coat and any little bumps to be fair will help as it’s raises the ballast a tad for moisture to fall and run off onto floor !
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt remember, that is a wet area. The tile spacers will let air/water move underneath the bricks. Think about your underneath floor storage.
Please don’t recommend that Spray Insulation Company. I think I would have pinched their van keys until they had cleared up their mess ! And there’s you having done such a sterling job.
It looked like the set used in the film The Thing. Was half expecting Kurt Russell to appear.
Obviously this is a bit late now but perhaps some parcel tape over the batons would have allowed it to be peeled off?
I was just thinking the same thing 🤔
I'm gradually catching up with your past videos. Must say I admire your effort and determination.
Thanks Gary for your kind words - good to have you on board
When your sitting on the boat this summer, with an adult beverage in hand, it will all be worth it. You’ll look back and laugh at all the hard times
Mark Kasprzak mate - literally that’s what keeps me going. Kids asleep on board and me either on the roof or on the deck outside looking back at the crappy scraping days and falling through the floor moments !!
I expect you have done it all now but an oscillating multi tool is your best friend for this.
I think they must be related to the pair who plastered my house lol. You're doing a fantastic job.
Hi James. WOW I feel for you on this one. All your hard work and now you've got some more 😩 But I'm sure it'll be worth it in the end 👍🏻 Keep going as soon you'll be doing more rewarding bits like the nice finishes of the interior 👍🏻 Keep drinking brews 🤣 Cheers Stevie 😎
CAUTION: Every darl spot or gab in the (thin) foam where you can touch metal will create condensation / moisture there when the cold air near the exposed metal comes in contact with the warm air of the surface of the back of the wall covering. That condensate will collect, drip and eventually discolor and damage the wall covering.
Best to use cans of expanding spray foam and fill in every dark / exposed spot... or else you will soon get and see condensed water damage on the walls and flooring (water fllows downward).
This situation with foam insulation is the cause and bain of narrowboats where you see water damage / sweating marks on wood surfaces... that suggest leaks but they aren't. Instead they are as mentioned above: condensate caused by exposed metal.
You boat looks like there are many such spots and future water marks.
OOps - dark gap (not darl gab). Sorry.
#WTFOOK SNAFUWORLD thanks for the tips there. I was going to have a thorough inspection once trimmed back. I’ve bought a few cans of closed cell foam to fill in some gaps in the future to avoid exactly what you’ve spoken about. Thanks
The prophet of doom has spoken.
Just found your channel James and am working through from the start.
You're doing a cracking job.
Would it have been better/easier to insulate with celotex boards? a) would have a constant thickness and b) not have the hassle of stripping the foam off battens.
Looking forward to watching the rest of them. Keep going.
You are cracking on fella , must be hard work . Electric multi tool may have been what you needed there , but adds to the expense
hatterbarbel that would work but would also creat a lot of dust and shavings which I’d have to clean.
I was thinking of a Fein tool. There are sharp blade scrapers that wouldn't generate too much dust.
Yes I thought it would be as thick as the battens.
martin worrall the surface of the battens is 50mm from the steel, so the insulation is about 25-50mm thick all over
Still looks a bit on the thin side.
What's the "R" factor expected to be?
I was expecting it to be level with the battens.
Keep up the good work. ;-)
T'airn'KA I agree, there are bits on the thin side but you wouldn’t want them flush to the battens as ideally you want an air gap for added insulation. The bits which are thin I’ll top up .
James would a multi-tool be another option to remove the excess insulation ?
That's a thin layer. Other boaters (youboaters?) have to dig through layers of the stuff to even see the battens!
Was the foam spray insulation worth it in the end?
Think I've put paint on thicker. They really did throw that on, terrible job.
Is it warmer in the boat?
Rob Moss OMG it’s a totally different feel. So much warmer and more homely instantly !! Great sound deadenning too
I feel like a cheese cutting wire would work well for removing the spray foam
It dont look great. To thin. Poor application?? Why was it applied over the battons?
austin vieth because I didn’t have time to mask over them all with tape - also they were on a time restraint and could really wait for me to do any more prep. I disagree it’s too thin. It’s 20mm at its thinnest albeit there are one or two spots where I’ll apply some more
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt fair enough James. I am impressed by your work ethic. Try not to over do it. I am enjoying your vids. Thanks.
think it would have taken less time and mess just fitting your own insulation.
would have thought the insulation on the roll would 1 be cheaper and 2 less messy and you could have just put it behind the battons
Put it this way, I have seen much much worse. An electric blade would have been good for this. I have seen people tape all the battons before this so that it comes off easier
James one of the best things to remove foam is a Multi-tool with the offset scraper blade. This setup removes the foam as it were better. Scraper blade (www.dewalt.com/products/accessories/oscillating-accessories/oscillating-flexible-scraper-blade/dwa4218) . TH-cam video. ( th-cam.com/video/2ul09m-AI5w/w-d-xo.html )
I'd not be happy with that, its uneven, there are gaps that will go rusty an they seem to have gone out of their way to spray the batons rather than the boat.
That is depressing. Your nice floor!
Mark Bond I know !!! It’s well annoying - still it needs another coat and any little bumps to be fair will help as it’s raises the ballast a tad for moisture to fall and run off onto floor !
Why not staple in some regular insulation " thin" and cover it up with the panel?
Tile spacers. Love it!!
Mark Bond I’m going to put some thin insulation on top of the bricks beneath the subfloor
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt remember, that is a wet area. The tile spacers will let air/water move underneath the bricks. Think about your underneath floor storage.
Please don’t recommend that Spray Insulation Company. I think I would have pinched their van keys until they had cleared up their mess ! And there’s you having done such a sterling job.
👍👌🇨🇦❤,,
How to work harder not smarter.
I’m starting mine in the spring ,what firm did you use for the insulation
Sloppy foam insulation work.