Flooded Honda GX390 Restoration Part 3
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/ @ajrestoration Hello Ladies and Gentlemen, welcome back to the Flooded Honda GX390 restoration series! This is part 3 of the Honda GX360 Restoration.
I found this Honda GX390 at the recycling yard and it looks like it was flooded, I could not let it die, go to the crusher, be melted down, and become a sad Coca-Cola can.
This is my attempt at saving it, just remember I am not a professional, I will probably do something stupid, and stuff something up hahaha anyways
I hope you enjoy the video.
If you have any suggestions for improvement, or compliments share them below!
Please leave a like if you did like the video, please subscribe and feel free to comment your thoughts and as always thank you for watching.
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Honda began manufacturing small engines for use in power equipment products in 1953. In 1973 Honda introduced Honda Generators, Tillers, and Outboards into the U.S. Market. Water Pumps were added to the Power Equipment lineup in 1975, followed by Lawn Mowers in 1979. Four years later, Honda snow blowers were added to the product lineup.
In 2015, Honda celebrated a significant milestone: over 40 million satisfied Power Equipment customers in the United States.
Honda Power Equipment products are assembled at 11 Honda manufacturing facilities around the world, including Honda Power Equipment Mfg., LLC located in Swepsonville, North Carolina. Research, development, and testing activities are conducted at Honda R&D Americas, Inc., also located in North Carolina, and Honda R&D Co., Ltd., in Japan.
Honda Power Equipment Mfg., LLC (HPE) has boosted its general purpose engine production to 2 million engines per year for use by Honda and other manufacturers.
In addition to engines, HPE produces Honda lawn mowers, generators, snowblowers, pumps, tillers, and string trimmers.
Honda's North Carolina Research and Development Center is an 11,000-square-foot facility established in 1993 that conducts product engineering, prototype development, and testing of power equipment products.
울렁찬 엔진소리가 보기 좋습니다😊
That's a great job, man! You'll soon have it running smoothly!
Take it easy, Andy
That's the plan haha! Thank you Andy!
Hi Dear Friend! Very nice sharing.😊👍40
13:37 in addition to heating the aluminum, you also have to freeze the bearing, result: it enters alone🤷♂️
Your guilty suspect is definitely the flywheel.
It turned out to be a worn conrod. I did get a new one, I just have to install it.
A work of art for sure 👍👍👍👍👍. I will hope you find that knocking and resolve it. It’s almost too pretty to put it back to work 😉
I hope so too
@@AJRestoration I didn’t see you adjust the valves and I hope that may be the fix… love you content and hope to add a blast cabinet and oven for powder coating to my arsenal. Please keep the great videos coming.
@@johnw1178 at 24:29 he captioned he adjusted the valves to spec.
Wow good job on the rebuild it looks like very heavy modified version of the original that's I like to see
Sounds like something in the area of the recoil starter is a bit too close to something. You might look for signs of rubbing under the cover.
That was my thought too actually.
@@AJRestoration please do an update video if you decide to fix it
Good afternoon from Southeast South Dakota
A worthy challenge to be sure. The second "cam like" shaft, with what looks like counter weights... is that just for the smoothing of the vibrations on a single cylinder engine? Your work was well above my skill set. I did learn a few things again on this one!!!
Pragtige werk wat jy gedoen het op daai motor. Ek sien jy doen nou plating ook dit is ook mooi. Pragtige dag vir jou AJ
That is a counter weight indeed, people who convert the engines to racing engines remove the counterweight and balance the crankshaft to achieve higher RPM and faster revs.
Baie dankie Tom, ja ek ptobeer elke keer iets verbeter, Die plating kom noggals mooi uit, dit keer dat die goed roes. Van my vorige restorasies se bolts en nuts het begin roes, so ek moes plan maak.
Beautiful even if it didn't run but great job getting what could have been just scrapped and getting it running too. Not sure what the noise is but hope it's nothing too hard to figure out and remedy.
Thank you Ray, I suspect I did not gap the valves correctly, Ill tinker with it in the coming week and see if I can remedy it. Ill make a short video on it too.
Now too find a project for this engine 👍😎
Excellent travail👏👏🇨🇵🇨🇵
Good job but one thing never paint engine block but give it that brush thing to make it shine as paint deteriorates
Try starting it without the recoil or cooling tins - use a rope wrapped around . I reckon it's in that area. Doesn't sound like a valve to me. Could be though - worth checking those. Thanks for a great video. Thumbs UP
Turns out the conrod is shot. I got a new one, i just have to install it.
A work of art. Beautiful.
nice n clean job
Thank you! Cheers!
Really nice job. It looks brand new. I did not know you could bore an aluminum engine like that.
Thanks. I missed that, obviously.
Glad you liked it!
Комментарий в поддержку ролика и канала, а также труда мастера.
Sounds like a valve maybe? Still, and incredible job! Thanks for sharing.
I have a suspicion its the flywheel catching on the ignition coil, If it was a valve the sound would be there all the time (i may be wrong) I am quite excited to see what it is and to fix it. I'll post a video when I get it running smooth.
Hi AJ beautiful restoration good job well done friend
Thanks Vince!👍
The best! Congratulations!
Thanks!
Beautifully done!
Thank you very much!
i realy like this restore aj !
you get better every week.
motor sounds good at higher rpm, so i think it have something to do with rubbing flyweel against bobine (or something else in that area).
I also have the same suspicion. It has to be the flywheel catching somewhere.
@@AJRestoration and the second suspect would be too much compression, because you mounted a new piston maybe the compression ratio has changed?
Check the clearance between the flywheel and the ignition sensor
That is what I also think!
Nice job.
Thank you very much!
Ai AJ soos altyd n pragtige restorasie
Awesome restoration! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Bravo bravo👏👏👍👍
Excellent.
Many thanks!
Eline sağlık
Very good job! Did you ever figure out the noise??
Yes, It was the Conrod that needed replacing.
Impressive! New subscriber 👍
You are supposed to use oil on head bolts for proper torque
Never heard about oiling the head bolts.
When fitting bearings, use a pipe or socket that fits the inner race of the bearing. This way you do damage the bearing. The hammer and punch method used is so shade tree.
Depends where bearing is fitted. Use force on inner race when fitted to a shaft but outer race when fitted into a casing. This way you do NOT damage the precision made bearing,
The bearings were not damaged by the way I inserted it. Sockets are a good way of doing it, but you don't always have sockets that will fit the job.
If you don't have a socket the right size to fit on a bearing, use a small piece of 2x4 to tap in bearing into place. A punch and hammer can damage ball bearings inside bearing
#AJRestorations Sounds like it could be the lifters by the cam. They seemed to sound scratchy when you put them in. Also did you check to see if the piston rod race may be too far away from the crank? They make a type of paper thingy to check for clearances. I dont remember what its called.
I will have to check the lifters again, they did seem a little scratchy but I did not think too much of it at the time. I did gap the valve rockers to spec with a feeler gauge when the piston was TDC. I will recheck them also. I have a feeling it might be the flywheel catching somewhere, I'll start with the flywheel and work my way down to the lifters.
What do you mean by the piston rod race? Not sure what you are talking about?
@@AJRestoration sorry i meant where the piston rod connects to the crank, did you check the clearance between that? (Plastigage) is the stuff i was referring to. I just had to google it to remember what it was called.
But it did seem to sound intermittent in the video, so it very well could be the flywheel hitting something.
Piston hitting the case that long end at the bolts ?
Excelente 👏👏👏
Клапана забыл отрегулировать.
nice😘😘
Thank you! Cheers!
Check the muffler, is it rattling? Nice work though!
Turns out its the conrod, I ordered a new one today.
Nice Job I have one on the bench now and it needs a rebore, did you use standard pistons or over sized after boring? A lot of the parts are available on eBay at great prices that make it easy to rebuild, like a carburettor, hardly worth restoring the old just replace?
If you go oversize you need a matching piston otherwise you will have what they call piston slap, and its bad.
Buy a oversize piston first and then match the cylinder to the piston, also buy new rings that matches the size you are going. If you go oversize pistons and use standard rings you will have low compression and a smoky underperforming motor. You can reuse the old conrod if its still in spec.
Its always worth restoring old carbs if its still usable, just make sure you clean the jets and passages. A ultrasonic cleaner works wonders.
@@AJRestoration Thank's yep I know all about engine building being a retired motor mechanic I can't find any over sized pistons and wondered if these can be sleeved, I did imagine you had gone to an over sized piston. This engine is really bad as it had been sitting outside with no plug in for some years and everything is pretty stuffed, I have purchased most of the bolt on stuff from eBay for about $100 but the bore is very corroded at the top so it might be a new casing if I can't get it sleeved and bored back to STD size, use the original piston with new rings.
REGULAR AS VÁLVULAS
Mh. No expert here that knows what the knocking sound is?
I suspect its the flywheel catching on the ignition coil, or the starter cup catching somewhere. Ill check the flywheel first, A lot of other viewers also suspect the flywheel catching somewhere.
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I'd prefer to work on an engine that's been flooded with gas & not water. It'll be a lot easier.
Makes sense haha