As I see, when you change the size/pitch of the props, and the type of battery, the motors tend to draw more current to move it, so 40A ESC is ok for a 15" 5.5 prop and a small 3S battery, but for a 17" 6.5" you fried your ESC, for that size you need a lower KV motor, 300KV, and a higher amp ESC, like 70A or 80A
Yes, and it happens to everyone who flies and develop UAVs. I have had many of my drones go down and many times it was a pilot error as well. It's when you mess up like this you learn the most and it is kind of impossible to avoid if you are flying a lot and building yourself. I have a drone almost exactly like yours. It's a tarot 650 with extended arms and 17-inch propellers. My max takeoff weight is 5.2 Kg. In your case, it looks like you had a motor failure. But to be sure, Look for any shorts in the circuit. If your motors cant handle the load, you need to replace them before the next flight. Your ESC should be checked to make sure that it is okay. A good thing to do is to check the ESCs after every flight. You can just put your finger on it and feel for any heat. Some heat is not bad but if it is very hot it means that you are pushing it a lot, maybe too much. The motors I use is 4 T-motor mn4014 330kv. The motors draw 17 amps at max throttle and my drone has an average power consumption of about 16 amps for all 4 motors combined during normal flight. If you want, you can use the same motors. 40 amp ESCs should wor just fine. I use 45 amp without ant issues. Also, make sure that all your motor mounts are completely horizontal before the next takeoff. Just a couple of degrees of tilt will cause severe yaw issues. Good luck and feel free to ask anything.
I have a very similar setup and I struggle with motors heating up, so far I always landed before the motors turned too hot. Tbh I'm not sure atm what is causing this, but I read on the internet problems about motor alignment/adjustment, bad loiter pids. I aligned mine level now and reduced the loiter PIDs and will test as soon the weather allows it. This would also the reason why primarly the same motors are heating up which are spinning in the same direction (CW or CCW alike). I think also a good indication is switching from loiter to level mode and check the drift.
@@P0SS0S yea😖 lost a spark bought a new one broke in the same week. And you ever heard of FPV? 90% of FPV is just crashing and fixing😅 but to crash with a big 20" kwad must hurt man
I googled everything (crash analysis is always fun)... Long story short, you've over-propped. You're pushing around ~3600 grams AUW, which puts 900g on each motor at hover. The motors you're using were designed to spin 12-13x5.5" props that weigh less than half the weight of the 17x65" 30g monsters you've got on there. This moves your power band down into low RPM's, which takes more energy to do rapid changes in rotational speed. Every motor coil has to dissipate the excess heat generated while rapidly accelerating and braking, especially when such changes come more rapidly at a higher amplitude during a flat descent through you're own wash or in turbulent wind gusts, and especially when trying to swing heavy prop weight. When you're cruising around or just hovering, you probably had just enough cooling going on. It was only a matter of time before you performed just the right combination and timing with your maneuvering to cause this exact type of failure. See if you can find a prop with a weight of
Thanks for the detailed information. I agree it was the Motor prop combination. I would like to move to a hex however I think that would be more costly for me than just getting 4 different motors that can handle the prop/weight combination. So Im weighing my options.
@@builtfromhome9207 That sounds reasonable. I personally think about it from a capability level in terms of service life. "What do I need to make possible, and for how long?" What kind of downtime is acceptable. This makes me more apt to standardize a cheaper fleet where I can implement the "2 is 1" philosophy, knowing that operator error and mechanical wear are unavoidable. But if it's a hobby, sometimes just experiencing what all the different parts can do is more helpful, especially early-on.
Yes for me I have other quads and things to keep me busy while I’m waiting for parts to fix this one. I build these things mostly for my personal enjoyment and the drive to learn new things. I have been in the hobby for years and it's just fun. The crashing and learning is all part of the ride.
@@builtfromhome9207 Hey, I modified my 650 quad into 680 hex by changing the frame plate and adding two additional arm. Got the plate for $30 and two arms and mounting for $25. I happened to have two spare motors, so I just need to bought another two esc. Your 10000 6S battery would be perfect for a hex. I'm using 2x8000 4S Tattu Lipo. Edit: You can buy the plates in AliExpress or Amazon. Mine was bought from Amazon. Cheers!
I agree with the over-propped theme. You need bigger motors or smaller props. When you rebuild, add a 1000uF 35V or 50V capacitor on each ESC's power leads.
I'm currently building a Tarot S1000 I understand your pain what I have learn failure will happen as long as your building drones. What I have learned is to get back to flying ASAP your troubleshooting technics could improve. I always have and troubleshooting ESC ready to plug and play for a quick testing my motors.
Change propellers :) For such typical 380 kV engines, 1550 propellers are sufficient and they provide an optimal compromise at ESC 40A. Too much electric power was generated by 17 "propellers ... :)
This is my biggest fear with my Tarot 690s hex that I'm building. I'm running a 4s 9000mAh battery. And I my model fitted with 4006/620kv motors with 13" props per manufacturers specifications. I just hope they're right because unfortunately there aren't too many other options for motors in this size range. The glue-like residue that you found inside of the bad motor makes me think that it pretty much overheated and melted the insulation on the motor's windings until it completely shorted out. That's a bummer man. I hope you were able to get it fixed and back in the air!
Had the same crash, tarot 650 extended arms 17 inch props and sunnysky motors around 320 kv. For me the problem was the esc burned out under same conditions as you had. Moved on to smaller props non carbon apc for me worked well less vibrations. Made a second rig Y6 with 17 inch props. Worked much better for me with almost the same esc motor setup.
Sorry for your loss. We all feel your pain. I believe you had a bum motor. Check out KDE motors. I fly the Align M480L with Panasonic GH4 and two 6000mah Pulse batteries, 14 minute flight times. I been flying this copter since 2012, never had any issues. Align does make all the components in house. Check out the M480 specs and compare them to yours, (similar in size). It might help you with your decision. Don't give up!!! Good luck.
Have you ever tested motor temperature after a short flight on full payload? That is a good way to check if the motors are seeing too much work. What about the ESC on the damaged arm, does it work? A defective ESC might burn a motor.
guys, what's the question? 17x6.5 props are not suitable for this setup. A simple calculation shows overheating even for 16x5.5. I am currently building a similar set, only with 14x4.7. And this does not reduce the efficiency of the propeller-motor group.
Man, I feel for you. I have had one of my escs fail mid flight too, luckily it was a hexacopter so I could land safely. You can also find the right size carbon tubing from amazon for fairly cheap. By the way Tattu Plus batteries have intelligent battery management system in them, check if it’s damaged. The escs are (atleast in my opinion) good but if you want you could change to sunnysky motors or something else that has the same quality.
The Battery management seems to be ok but Im going to be looking at it more today. I looked at sunnysky motors when i first built the quad however they were harder to get from online stores like amazon and banggood. I will try to look for them again but maybe from their sight directly.
Ive never lost an ESC in flight but the fear of that happening means i will not fly my 450 quad over people or property. i regularly fly fixed wing all over a housing estate but if a quad looses any motor they plummet to the ground as a very heavy dead weight and because of that i only fly my quad in a location similar to where your flying. A bit of advice, you shouldn't have plugged in one of your other expensive motors to test the ESC, i had a faulty ESC fry a motor when i was building a plane and i put a new motor on thinking it was just a faulty motor and the ESC fried that one too! if you ever suspect the ESC, plug in a cheap test motor that you dont mind if it burns out, not one of yur good motors!
That's a good bit of advice, cause the motor creates the load on the ESC; it doesn't push current cause transistors can only allow current to pass. Big Amp ESC's can still make tiny motors spin just fine.
Smell the motor? If you smell bandaid's, then that means the wire wrapping started to melt or melted. If the motor doesn't spin freely, that means there is a short between windings. Short could be either in the esc or motor itself.
Hang in there. Been there, should I say, 5 times. Some were pilot, some were failures. So many hours evolved with each. I’ve taken a brake focusing on fixed wing camera and FPV planes which are less complex a d more forgiving.
Most likely it was ESC desync. What caused it: any wires have inductance, that means that you can't instantly pull a lot of current from a long piece of wire. And you have VERY long power wires to ESCs. How to solve that issue: you should solder big low ESR capacitor every 15-20 cm of power wire, and one on ESC side
if you are trying for pro grade then you must use pro grade equipment. you might consider a hex if you are wanting redundancy. definately dont skimp on esc's, motors, batterys with backup batterys. if you are using a pixhawk cube its more than capable
What is the history of the motor you lost? How many hours did you have on it, were the bearings ever replaced, lubricated regularly, has it ever been abused in terms of previous near-overheating? Can you hear any trouble with the bearing on the dead motor compared to the known-good ones? I say, get >= 3 new ones, replace the bearings in the old ones and adapt the platform into a Hexacopter to lift that nice heavier battery. I believe if you get the Hex version of the same frame, you'll have yourself some spare carbon for future crashes and mods.
So I did have one other small crash on it. Bearings seem just fine but I have not lubricated it for a little while. After reading threw some other comments and looking further into things Im pretty positive these motors were just not suitable for spinning the large props and handling the load I had on it.
Props too big for that motor. 15" for that. Possible bad motor but more likely with the 17's pulling too much current. Mount the ESC's inboard as well. Lowers mass on arms and less to move away from CG.
Hi, it certainly looks like over voltage on the motor... you needed to set the voltage limit to make sure that did not happen... this is set as a percentage... search for this to calibrate motor vs ESC power...
The second time you used the word "voltage", I believe you meant "throttle". If his ESC's weren't throttle-calibrated, I doubt he would've been able to get a stable hover. My best guess is that he overheated a motor, and the weakest one failed while it was descending through the quad's own wash, which produces a lot of spikes in amperage draw.
The motor is 1620g / 12.4A /1335 propeller or 1420g / 12.7A / 1225pro. It looks to me that you have too much weight on the drone. And the motor will draw more current and heat up.
Why I’m going to go with eight motors instead of four for just in case of an event like this. Should be able to place four motor mounts on the bottom just as with the top.
Hi, I had a similar problem on a smaller quad running Ardupilot the problem turned out to be esc de-sync I ended up replacing all the esc's and loaded the latest Blheli firmware.
It happens to my F550 two years ago with pixhawk. I dont know what happened but it looks exactly the same as yours. Last week I bought a new Tarot 650sport and I saw your video. This time I will use Pixhack V5+
Hey. First of all, I would start by gathering the trust data of your motor/prop setup. If this can't be obtained by the manufacturer, you should look into doing a static trust test yourself. Then, once you know your total max potential trust, weigh the drone. If its weight is half or less of its total trust output you are good. If you're above that, consider the system overweight however this should NOT burn out a motor. A motor should be able to spin at 100% throttle continuously without overheating unless it is over propped. I don't think your issue was the motor as long as it was free spinning at take off and the bearings were good. The smoke you saw must have been caused by a short circuit, which in turn killed your motor by quickly overheating it and melting the windings insulation (the goo you saw in it was a clear sign of high temperatures) Just my two cents. :)
Ohh god! This sucks so much, I never had such a failure although my 3D printed 10 inch quad took quite a lot of hits and breaks this looks super broken so far... probably your motor were not fat enough...
Hi, he uses a pixhawk so the firmware should be Arducopter or Px4. Computer software for configuration is most likely Missionplanner or Qgroundcontrol.
Here is from some text notes (did not have the source available) Numbers you will need for this formula: Pinion tooth count (pT) Spur gear tooth count (sT) Gear ratio (GR) Tire Diameter (TD) Approximate RPM (~rpm) KV rating ( kV) Amperage of battery (mah/ah) Voltage of Battery (bV) Percentage of cell count (%s) Percentage of kVa (%kVa) (2s only) Formulas: GR = sT ÷ pT (driven gear ÷ drive gear) %s = (3s bV - 2s bV) ÷ 3s bV (for 2s battery) %kVa = 1 - %s %s = (4s bV - 3s bV) ÷ 4s bV + 1 (for 4s battery) ~rpm = kV × ah × %kVa (2s) ~rpm = kV × ah (3s) ~rpm = kV × ah × %s (4s+) MPH (aka top speed) = (~rpm × TD) ÷ (GR × 336) If you have multiple gear ratios, such as a f/r differential, the second () for the mph formula will look like this: (GR × GR × 336). This will use your overall gear ratio. The 336 is a static number based on pi and a breakdown of distance over time converted in just distance (as far as I've been able to figure). I can give a better explanation of this if you would like. Example using my bandit will the old GR vs new GR: Old pT = 83t Old sT = 24t New pT = 33t New sT = 76t kV = 3800 TD = 4.25 ( This is only the rear tire, since only the rear tire sees power) ah = 5 bV = 11.1 ~rpm = 3800 × 5 = 19000 Old GR = 83 ÷ 24 = 3.458333 = 3.46 MPH = (19000 × 4.25) ÷ (3.46 × 336) = 69.4587806221 = 69.46 New GR = 76 ÷ 33 = 2.303030303 = 2.30 MPH = (19000 × 4.25) ÷ (2.30 × 336) = 104.4901656315 = 104.49 If i was to use a 2s the math would look like this (using numbers from new GR): %s = (11.1 - 7.4) ÷ 11.1 = .3333333 = .33 or 33% %kVa = 1 - .33 = .67 ~rpm = 3800 × 5 × .67 = 12730 MPH = (12730 × 4.25) ÷ (2.3 × 336) = 70.0084109731 = 70.01
Hi there... Well, I flew drones from 2009 until last year and there is one big question.. which is when will they fall or fail and not if... I flew drones professionally for filming as filming is my profession since 1996 so, the drones I had and built were my additional tools As sometimes I had to fly over some crowd I NEVER flew quads... ALWAYS Hexas and that saved me about 4 times when I had burned ESCs and even one unplugged motor cable in flight once. With an Hexa is much less likely to have an even like you had as it can land safely with 5 motor and it can't with 3. Safety first... ALWAYS... not only for you but everything around you where it can fall and damage/injure something or someone.
Hey, just wondering if you happen to live in Utah? I see the beautiful mountains and thought we might be fellow Utahns. I build as well. I would love to connect with you. Keep up the good work and videos!
One of the arms was broken and will need to be replaced. The gimbal took a good hit but should be easily fixable. Obviously the motor and battery. Im hoping most of it should be fixable without too much effort. Replacing motors will be the expensive part.
I think I know what went wrong. I had two crashes similar to yours. My problem was that I installed my ESCs on the end of the booms below the motors. This meant having long power/ground leads going to the main power source in the chassis of the aircraft. You will get power spikes in those leads that over time will damage the ESCs. Imagine turning on a water faucet at full blast then shutting it off all at once - there's a sudden increase in water pressure. the same sort of thing happens in those wires. You can mitigate the problem by wiring some capacitors, but I chose to install my ESCs in the center of the aircraft in a later build and ran the three leads out to the motors. I did this on a Tarot 650 Iron Man that I built over a year ago - see: th-cam.com/video/PSxl5JhqxWo/w-d-xo.html I have gotten a lot of flights out of it and still flies great!
Have you bought a new setup? I had the same engines on the same frame, now I've improved my drone much more. Please tell me if you're interested in my setup. Greetings.
@@builtfromhome9207 A few things I did in my construction: First of all, the motor-ESC connections are soldered. I don't trust "banana" connections - I've seen these connectors fail. Personally I use ESC for Racers - LittleBee 30A BLHeli (YES, they perfectly control large engines, and work with Pixhawk). I had TAROT 6S 4008 380KV engines - like yours, but these engines are quite weak. Much better seem to me GARTT ML 5008 330KV engines. (I bought on AliExpress, $106 for 4pcs). Additionally, I recommend you folding Tarot propellers. I've examined two types of folding Tarot 1555 propellers: Two, and three blades. I decided on three folding blades, so I have a large gimbal and a Sony A6000 camera on my Tarot. The total weight (with 6S 10000mAh battery) is 4.8kg. This is what a drone looks like in all its glory (photo with previous NEX5 camera): rc-fpv.pl/download/file.php?id=6460&sid=f289c2d0588add7d867c50295f834cba Here's a test video of another device, but that's how this drone looks in flight: th-cam.com/video/4SZcK1Oi_os/w-d-xo.html And here is a huge topic on the Polish RC-FPV forum: rc-fpv.pl/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=36286 If you have any questions about my design, ask - I will be very pleased!
And maybe if someone would like to see the footage recorded on Sony A6000 - "light to heaven" to thank the doctors for their work against Covid-19: th-cam.com/video/AnJeQSyrsYk/w-d-xo.html
Tengo un dron como ese y con los mismos motores.... por lo que te sucedió no he querido ponerles hélices mas alla de 12 pulgadas. Ese motor no soporta tamaños mayores. lo he volado con hélices de 14 pulgadas y se recalienta mucho. por eso he comprado motores diferentes que si me permiten instalar hélices como las que tienes. Mitoot 5010 360KV es.aliexpress.com/item/33027613653.html
I love your other videos but so much drama for this and so negative. Crash and repair is always a part of the hobby. A guy with 40 years in the rc world teach me . There are two kinds of aircraft, the ones that already crashed and the ones that will crash.
Anyone else have this ever happen to them!?
As I see, when you change the size/pitch of the props, and the type of battery, the motors tend to draw more current to move it, so 40A ESC is ok for a 15" 5.5 prop and a small 3S battery, but for a 17" 6.5" you fried your ESC, for that size you need a lower KV motor, 300KV, and a higher amp ESC, like 70A or 80A
Many, many times. Lost a £50,000 drone with a brand new 5D. needless to say, had to look for another job
Yes, and it happens to everyone who flies and develop UAVs. I have had many of my drones go down and many times it was a pilot error as well. It's when you mess up like this you learn the most and it is kind of impossible to avoid if you are flying a lot and building yourself. I have a drone almost exactly like yours. It's a tarot 650 with extended arms and 17-inch propellers. My max takeoff weight is 5.2 Kg. In your case, it looks like you had a motor failure. But to be sure, Look for any shorts in the circuit. If your motors cant handle the load, you need to replace them before the next flight. Your ESC should be checked to make sure that it is okay. A good thing to do is to check the ESCs after every flight. You can just put your finger on it and feel for any heat. Some heat is not bad but if it is very hot it means that you are pushing it a lot, maybe too much. The motors I use is 4 T-motor mn4014 330kv. The motors draw 17 amps at max throttle and my drone has an average power consumption of about 16 amps for all 4 motors combined during normal flight. If you want, you can use the same motors. 40 amp ESCs should wor just fine. I use 45 amp without ant issues. Also, make sure that all your motor mounts are completely horizontal before the next takeoff. Just a couple of degrees of tilt will cause severe yaw issues. Good luck and feel free to ask anything.
I have a very similar setup and I struggle with motors heating up, so far I always landed before the motors turned too hot. Tbh I'm not sure atm what is causing this, but I read on the internet problems about motor alignment/adjustment, bad loiter pids. I aligned mine level now and reduced the loiter PIDs and will test as soon the weather allows it. This would also the reason why primarly the same motors are heating up which are spinning in the same direction (CW or CCW alike).
I think also a good indication is switching from loiter to level mode and check the drift.
@@P0SS0S yea😖 lost a spark bought a new one broke in the same week. And you ever heard of FPV? 90% of FPV is just crashing and fixing😅 but to crash with a big 20" kwad must hurt man
I googled everything (crash analysis is always fun)... Long story short, you've over-propped. You're pushing around ~3600 grams AUW, which puts 900g on each motor at hover. The motors you're using were designed to spin 12-13x5.5" props that weigh less than half the weight of the 17x65" 30g monsters you've got on there. This moves your power band down into low RPM's, which takes more energy to do rapid changes in rotational speed. Every motor coil has to dissipate the excess heat generated while rapidly accelerating and braking, especially when such changes come more rapidly at a higher amplitude during a flat descent through you're own wash or in turbulent wind gusts, and especially when trying to swing heavy prop weight. When you're cruising around or just hovering, you probably had just enough cooling going on. It was only a matter of time before you performed just the right combination and timing with your maneuvering to cause this exact type of failure. See if you can find a prop with a weight of
Thanks for the detailed information. I agree it was the Motor prop combination. I would like to move to a hex however I think that would be more costly for me than just getting 4 different motors that can handle the prop/weight combination. So Im weighing my options.
@@builtfromhome9207 That sounds reasonable. I personally think about it from a capability level in terms of service life. "What do I need to make possible, and for how long?" What kind of downtime is acceptable. This makes me more apt to standardize a cheaper fleet where I can implement the "2 is 1" philosophy, knowing that operator error and mechanical wear are unavoidable. But if it's a hobby, sometimes just experiencing what all the different parts can do is more helpful, especially early-on.
Yes for me I have other quads and things to keep me busy while I’m waiting for parts to fix this one. I build these things mostly for my personal enjoyment and the drive to learn new things. I have been in the hobby for years and it's just fun. The crashing and learning is all part of the ride.
@@builtfromhome9207 Hey, I modified my 650 quad into 680 hex by changing the frame plate and adding two additional arm. Got the plate for $30 and two arms and mounting for $25. I happened to have two spare motors, so I just need to bought another two esc. Your 10000 6S battery would be perfect for a hex. I'm using 2x8000 4S Tattu Lipo.
Edit: You can buy the plates in AliExpress or Amazon. Mine was bought from Amazon. Cheers!
@@alphaadhito do you have a link to the plates you bought?
I agree with the over-propped theme. You need bigger motors or smaller props. When you rebuild, add a 1000uF 35V or 50V capacitor on each ESC's power leads.
Interesting, does the capacitor reduce OR eliminate spike loads to the ESC?
I'm currently building a Tarot S1000 I understand your pain what I have learn failure will happen as long as your building drones. What I have learned is to get back to flying ASAP your troubleshooting technics could improve. I always have and troubleshooting ESC ready to plug and play for a quick testing my motors.
Change propellers :)
For such typical 380 kV engines, 1550 propellers are sufficient and they provide an optimal compromise at ESC 40A.
Too much electric power was generated by 17 "propellers ... :)
This is my biggest fear with my Tarot 690s hex that I'm building. I'm running a 4s 9000mAh battery. And I my model fitted with 4006/620kv motors with 13" props per manufacturers specifications. I just hope they're right because unfortunately there aren't too many other options for motors in this size range.
The glue-like residue that you found inside of the bad motor makes me think that it pretty much overheated and melted the insulation on the motor's windings until it completely shorted out. That's a bummer man. I hope you were able to get it fixed and back in the air!
Wayyyyyy to big props for those little motors
Had the same crash, tarot 650 extended arms 17 inch props and sunnysky motors around 320 kv. For me the problem was the esc burned out under same conditions as you had. Moved on to smaller props non carbon apc for me worked well less vibrations. Made a second rig Y6 with 17 inch props. Worked much better for me with almost the same esc motor setup.
It is the most helpless feeling when a drone goes out of control like that. There's nothing you can do except try to build it as best you can.
You cooked the varnish off the wire winding's. Bet that motor got super hot. Curious if those motors are around a hundred dollars per motor?
I’ve had a ESC burn up a motor and seized it up. Had to replace both.
Sorry for your loss. We all feel your pain. I believe you had a bum motor. Check out KDE motors. I fly the Align M480L with Panasonic GH4 and two 6000mah Pulse batteries, 14 minute flight times. I been flying this copter since 2012, never had any issues. Align does make all the components in house. Check out the M480 specs and compare them to yours, (similar in size). It might help you with your decision. Don't give up!!! Good luck.
Have you ever tested motor temperature after a short flight on full payload? That is a good way to check if the motors are seeing too much work. What about the ESC on the damaged arm, does it work? A defective ESC might burn a motor.
guys, what's the question? 17x6.5 props are not suitable for this setup. A simple calculation shows overheating even for 16x5.5. I am currently building a similar set, only with 14x4.7. And this does not reduce the efficiency of the propeller-motor group.
Man, I feel for you. I have had one of my escs fail mid flight too, luckily it was a hexacopter so I could land safely. You can also find the right size carbon tubing from amazon for fairly cheap.
By the way Tattu Plus batteries have intelligent battery management system in them, check if it’s damaged.
The escs are (atleast in my opinion) good but if you want you could change to sunnysky motors or something else that has the same quality.
The Battery management seems to be ok but Im going to be looking at it more today. I looked at sunnysky motors when i first built the quad however they were harder to get from online stores like amazon and banggood. I will try to look for them again but maybe from their sight directly.
@@builtfromhome9207 Good luck! Be careful because there are lots of scams.
The mountains are very beautiful 🤩🤩😊👏👏
In which country you live in? Brother
Yes, money money, ESC's, Flux caused my ESC to cross causing resistance on the distribution board. Clean with rubbing alcohol.
Ive never lost an ESC in flight but the fear of that happening means i will not fly my 450 quad over people or property. i regularly fly fixed wing all over a housing estate but if a quad looses any motor they plummet to the ground as a very heavy dead weight and because of that i only fly my quad in a location similar to where your flying.
A bit of advice, you shouldn't have plugged in one of your other expensive motors to test the ESC, i had a faulty ESC fry a motor when i was building a plane and i put a new motor on thinking it was just a faulty motor and the ESC fried that one too!
if you ever suspect the ESC, plug in a cheap test motor that you dont mind if it burns out, not one of yur good motors!
That's a good bit of advice, cause the motor creates the load on the ESC; it doesn't push current cause transistors can only allow current to pass. Big Amp ESC's can still make tiny motors spin just fine.
Good tip thanks!
Smell the motor? If you smell bandaid's, then that means the wire wrapping started to melt or melted. If the motor doesn't spin freely, that means there is a short between windings. Short could be either in the esc or motor itself.
Hang in there. Been there, should I say, 5 times. Some were pilot, some were failures. So many hours evolved with each. I’ve taken a brake focusing on fixed wing camera and FPV planes which are less complex a d more forgiving.
I have considered doing some fixed wing FPV. Might have to give it a try some time...
Most likely it was ESC desync. What caused it: any wires have inductance, that means that you can't instantly pull a lot of current from a long piece of wire. And you have VERY long power wires to ESCs. How to solve that issue: you should solder big low ESR capacitor every 15-20 cm of power wire, and one on ESC side
if you are trying for pro grade then you must use pro grade equipment. you might consider a hex if you are wanting redundancy. definately dont skimp on esc's, motors, batterys with backup batterys. if you are using a pixhawk cube its more than capable
What is the history of the motor you lost? How many hours did you have on it, were the bearings ever replaced, lubricated regularly, has it ever been abused in terms of previous near-overheating? Can you hear any trouble with the bearing on the dead motor compared to the known-good ones? I say, get >= 3 new ones, replace the bearings in the old ones and adapt the platform into a Hexacopter to lift that nice heavier battery. I believe if you get the Hex version of the same frame, you'll have yourself some spare carbon for future crashes and mods.
So I did have one other small crash on it. Bearings seem just fine but I have not lubricated it for a little while. After reading threw some other comments and looking further into things Im pretty positive these motors were just not suitable for spinning the large props and handling the load I had on it.
I lost a F450 frame, a crash caused by bad bearing of motor lock in 300mts fall fast like a comet!
Props too big for that motor. 15" for that. Possible bad motor but more likely with the 17's pulling too much current. Mount the ESC's inboard as well. Lowers mass on arms and less to move away from CG.
What remote do you recommend and have you ever used AMP 2.8 flight controller?
I stumbled on this video and expected it to be clickbait. Thanks for sharing this. Will check out your other videos.
Hi, it certainly looks like over voltage on the motor... you needed to set the voltage limit to make sure that did not happen... this is set as a percentage... search for this to calibrate motor vs ESC power...
The second time you used the word "voltage", I believe you meant "throttle". If his ESC's weren't throttle-calibrated, I doubt he would've been able to get a stable hover. My best guess is that he overheated a motor, and the weakest one failed while it was descending through the quad's own wash, which produces a lot of spikes in amperage draw.
I will look into that when I decide on new motors.
The motor is 1620g / 12.4A /1335 propeller or 1420g / 12.7A / 1225pro. It looks to me that you have too much weight on the drone. And the motor will draw more current and heat up.
What landing gear are you using?
Why I’m going to go with eight motors instead of four for just in case of an event like this. Should be able to place four motor mounts on the bottom just as with the top.
U should reaplace the motors with tarot 4114(320kv) motors.
That might be a good idea. I will look into those.
@@builtfromhome9207 that should be more efficient than 380kv
Hi, I had a similar problem on a smaller quad running Ardupilot the problem turned out to be esc de-sync I ended up replacing all the esc's and loaded the latest Blheli firmware.
It happens to my F550 two years ago with pixhawk. I dont know what happened but it looks exactly the same as yours.
Last week I bought a new Tarot 650sport and I saw your video. This time I will use Pixhack V5+
Just subscribed, sorry for your loss. Not to change the subject, but where do you fly near those beautiful mountains..??
Pls can you make a video on your fpv connection
Having seen your video to the end I would get a new motor but I would not use a 6S battery I have had a problem with a large Tri-copter using 6S.
from 4s to 6s wow. Same prop of the 4s?
Nope moved to bigger props
@@builtfromhome9207 when you when to 6s you should use smaller prop, no big prop.
Hey.
First of all, I would start by gathering the trust data of your motor/prop setup. If this can't be obtained by the manufacturer, you should look into doing a static trust test yourself.
Then, once you know your total max potential trust, weigh the drone. If its weight is half or less of its total trust output you are good. If you're above that, consider the system overweight however this should NOT burn out a motor.
A motor should be able to spin at 100% throttle continuously without overheating unless it is over propped.
I don't think your issue was the motor as long as it was free spinning at take off and the bearings were good. The smoke you saw must have been caused by a short circuit, which in turn killed your motor by quickly overheating it and melting the windings insulation (the goo you saw in it was a clear sign of high temperatures)
Just my two cents. :)
Any update on how this drone is doing?
I just got it rebuilt and flew it this last weekend. I just need to put a video together
I would check the esc anyway because my brother and I have had motors go bad and the esc were bad too burned the motors out
What are your recomented new motors and what is your drone weight?
Noooo! I've never had a failure of this magnitude, only a $15 toy drone that flew away.
is the filght controller ok?
Ohh god! This sucks so much, I never had such a failure although my 3D printed 10 inch quad took quite a lot of hits and breaks this looks super broken so far... probably your motor were not fat enough...
Could you get into more detail on the build, like firmware ETC.... Thanks! I would also love to see you do more actually building!
Hi, he uses a pixhawk so the firmware should be Arducopter or Px4. Computer software for configuration is most likely Missionplanner or Qgroundcontrol.
What LIDAR were you using?
Here is from some text notes (did not have the source available)
Numbers you will need for this formula:
Pinion tooth count (pT)
Spur gear tooth count (sT)
Gear ratio (GR)
Tire Diameter (TD)
Approximate RPM (~rpm)
KV rating ( kV)
Amperage of battery (mah/ah)
Voltage of Battery (bV)
Percentage of cell count (%s)
Percentage of kVa (%kVa) (2s only)
Formulas:
GR = sT ÷ pT (driven gear ÷ drive gear)
%s = (3s bV - 2s bV) ÷ 3s bV (for 2s battery)
%kVa = 1 - %s
%s = (4s bV - 3s bV) ÷ 4s bV + 1 (for 4s battery)
~rpm = kV × ah × %kVa (2s)
~rpm = kV × ah (3s)
~rpm = kV × ah × %s (4s+)
MPH (aka top speed) = (~rpm × TD) ÷ (GR × 336)
If you have multiple gear ratios, such as a f/r differential, the second () for the mph formula will look like this: (GR × GR × 336). This will use your overall gear ratio.
The 336 is a static number based on pi and a breakdown of distance over time converted in just distance (as far as I've been able to figure). I can give a better explanation of this if you would like.
Example using my bandit will the old GR vs new GR:
Old pT = 83t
Old sT = 24t
New pT = 33t
New sT = 76t
kV = 3800
TD = 4.25 ( This is only the rear tire, since only the rear tire sees power)
ah = 5
bV = 11.1
~rpm = 3800 × 5 = 19000
Old GR = 83 ÷ 24 = 3.458333 = 3.46
MPH = (19000 × 4.25) ÷ (3.46 × 336) = 69.4587806221 = 69.46
New GR = 76 ÷ 33 = 2.303030303 = 2.30
MPH = (19000 × 4.25) ÷ (2.30 × 336) = 104.4901656315 = 104.49
If i was to use a 2s the math would look like this (using numbers from new GR):
%s = (11.1 - 7.4) ÷ 11.1 = .3333333 = .33 or 33%
%kVa = 1 - .33 = .67
~rpm = 3800 × 5 × .67 = 12730
MPH = (12730 × 4.25) ÷ (2.3 × 336) = 70.0084109731 = 70.01
LOL... you just gave me a headache!
Hi there... Well, I flew drones from 2009 until last year and there is one big question.. which is when will they fall or fail and not if...
I flew drones professionally for filming as filming is my profession since 1996 so, the drones I had and built were my additional tools
As sometimes I had to fly over some crowd I NEVER flew quads... ALWAYS Hexas and that saved me about 4 times when I had burned ESCs and even one unplugged motor cable in flight once. With an Hexa is much less likely to have an even like you had as it can land safely with 5 motor and it can't with 3.
Safety first... ALWAYS... not only for you but everything around you where it can fall and damage/injure something or someone.
i agree with you.
Hey, just wondering if you happen to live in Utah? I see the beautiful mountains and thought we might be fellow Utahns. I build as well. I would love to connect with you. Keep up the good work and videos!
What all was damaged? Is the frame usable?
One of the arms was broken and will need to be replaced. The gimbal took a good hit but should be easily fixable. Obviously the motor and battery. Im hoping most of it should be fixable without too much effort. Replacing motors will be the expensive part.
Hallo, I enjoy your videos and lern a lot from you, best wishes from a small town Cottbus, Germany, near German_Poland border
hello tu voles combien de minutes avec ton drone ? 6S-10000mah =30minutes ?
Bro I'm from india and i crashed my matrice 300 rtk while flying in a marriage hall. That was very sad moment for me. 😫😫😫😫😫😫😫
I think I know what went wrong. I had two crashes similar to yours. My problem was that I installed my ESCs on the end of the booms below the motors. This meant having long power/ground leads going to the main power source in the chassis of the aircraft. You will get power spikes in those leads that over time will damage the ESCs. Imagine turning on a water faucet at full blast then shutting it off all at once - there's a sudden increase in water pressure. the same sort of thing happens in those wires. You can mitigate the problem by wiring some capacitors, but I chose to install my ESCs in the center of the aircraft in a later build and ran the three leads out to the motors. I did this on a Tarot 650 Iron Man that I built over a year ago - see: th-cam.com/video/PSxl5JhqxWo/w-d-xo.html
I have gotten a lot of flights out of it and still flies great!
Have you bought a new setup? I had the same engines on the same frame, now I've improved my drone much more.
Please tell me if you're interested in my setup. Greetings.
What did you use to make it better?
@@builtfromhome9207
A few things I did in my construction:
First of all, the motor-ESC connections are soldered. I don't trust "banana" connections - I've seen these connectors fail.
Personally I use ESC for Racers - LittleBee 30A BLHeli (YES, they perfectly control large engines, and work with Pixhawk).
I had TAROT 6S 4008 380KV engines - like yours, but these engines are quite weak. Much better seem to me GARTT ML 5008 330KV engines. (I bought on AliExpress, $106 for 4pcs).
Additionally, I recommend you folding Tarot propellers.
I've examined two types of folding Tarot 1555 propellers: Two, and three blades. I decided on three folding blades, so I have a large gimbal and a Sony A6000 camera on my Tarot. The total weight (with 6S 10000mAh battery) is 4.8kg.
This is what a drone looks like in all its glory (photo with previous NEX5 camera):
rc-fpv.pl/download/file.php?id=6460&sid=f289c2d0588add7d867c50295f834cba
Here's a test video of another device, but that's how this drone looks in flight:
th-cam.com/video/4SZcK1Oi_os/w-d-xo.html
And here is a huge topic on the Polish RC-FPV forum:
rc-fpv.pl/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=36286
If you have any questions about my design, ask - I will be very pleased!
And maybe if someone would like to see the footage recorded on Sony A6000 - "light to heaven" to thank the doctors for their work against Covid-19:
th-cam.com/video/AnJeQSyrsYk/w-d-xo.html
@@AndrzejKuczwara Nice looking quod thanks for the info!
are you still making videos？
Yeah just have not got around to a new one for a couple weeks.
Oh well its part of the hobby. Love or hate it.
Que lastima en verdad. Solo di que fue lo que pasó para tomarlo en cuenta
It it was a hexacopter. Then your copter may not crashed.
Yes esc went out and a motor
Prop brok
Thank You!
Tengo un dron como ese y con los mismos motores.... por lo que te sucedió no he querido ponerles hélices mas alla de 12 pulgadas. Ese motor no soporta tamaños mayores. lo he volado con hélices de 14 pulgadas y se recalienta mucho. por eso he comprado motores diferentes que si me permiten instalar hélices como las que tienes. Mitoot 5010 360KV es.aliexpress.com/item/33027613653.html
eat fly repair repeat
Same way my s500 quad crash😂🥲🥲 I can understand your feelings
I love your other videos but so much drama for this and so negative. Crash and repair is always a part of the hobby. A guy with 40 years in the rc world teach me . There are two kinds of aircraft, the ones that already crashed and the ones that will crash.