‘65 Super Reverb RI | Tonal/Reliability Upgrades Part Three
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ส.ค. 2024
- Part Three of making this good amp a much more reliable long-term tone partner.
The Princeton video where I show how to work on RI Fender PCBs:
• Fender Princeton Rever...
Chapters:
00:00 Intro
00:28 Soldering iron talk
01:46 Pots/jacks board upgrades
16:51 Bias considerations
17:55 Vibrato (tremolo) changes
19:05 What it sounds like now
20:37 Conclusions - เพลง
![เจ้าผู้เดียว - ดิด คิตตี้ [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/q0NLCYKBOTo/mqdefault.jpg)
Really appreciate the production value on these newer videos, especially the time-stamps! Will make it a lot easier to go back and find the right video when I’ve forgotten something. Cheers Lyle.
Well due to the recent storms, power outages and internet services disruption here in Memphis I have just now been able to view and comment. It's always great to watch you work & big bonus to see it done on one of my amps. I feel like you're creating a "Super Duper Reverb" amp ... thanks man.
Lyle, I miss talking to you on facebook, but these videos are absolutely lovely. You’re a greater teacher and inspiration and you’ve made me a far better tech.
Thank you so much! With your help I rebuild fender blues dlx ri, and now it sounds way better than in stock state. Every video - new tips'n tricks stack. Thank you!
Another great video series Lyle. Thank you!
Sounds fantastic,great job Lyle
Your voice is really deep. That is pleasant to listen to. Congrats on that. Cheers mate. Not sure why I write this, but well, let’s go 😂
you do very nice work Lyle and learned some valuable tips especially using the right soldergun on the boards
Thanks for explaining your soldering equipment. I always like to see what other guys are using. I've been using Weller for more than 30 years. Lately I've been trying other stations such as Hakko FX888D and Pace ADS200. I'm also really liking Metcal MX500-P11. Tip cartridges are a bit pricey but RF induction works incredibly well. Easily solders chassis ground connections with 40 watts. And by design, the temperature doesn't overshoot and melt everything.
Nice video as usual Lyle! I have a nice old Pace ST45 I picked up for cheap that works great.
Thanks for recommending the Engineer solder pump - just in time before replacing my old crappy pump
I noticed a while ago you finally got a Hakko. Same model I have. A little spendy but worth every penny in my opinion. And I like the small "pencil-grip" probe; it's just very comfortable to work with.
I've a Hakko 888. really happy with it.
That was an excellent Ricardo Montalban you did! the wife and I are impressed ^_^
Gracias.
Thank you so much for reminding me of my all time favorite country song, Heart Like A Truck...
Gonna listen to some AC/DC to run that out of my head. I hope. It's a hard one to get rid of...
Those Green backs sound great I would not have thought to put Green backs in my SRRI.
I like um so much they are now in my '66 Princeton Reverb and Vox AC10
Gotta agree with you on the Hakko soldering stations. They are well worth the money and allow you to do fine electronic work like this as well as hobby type soldering work.
Great video series, very clear and excellent production. I have a Fender Performer 650 (sold, I think as Roc Pro in the US) which has a lot of noise and hum issues. Are you planning any similar videos on these amps? Thanks.
Thank you
Thanx teach
Thanks for making these videos. It sounds great. I have one of these reissues which has the EU’s RoHS compliant digital tremolo circuit in place of the optocoupler which I believe was banned because of the cadmium sulphide in them. Unfortunately they are noisy despite fenders efforts of adding additional resistors to the pre amp tubes. It’s a shame the chances of you working on a European model are next to zero as it would have been interesting to see how you’d go about converting back to the traditional circuit.
I thought optocouplers had an exemption to that ban due to there being nothing suitable to supersede them with?
Boy, that slow tremolo setting sounds really trippy! Hey, Lyle, does the decreased cathode bypass cap change also apply to the DRRI?
Yup
Thanks so much for these videos! In the past you have mentioned different tapers for the pots ( ie J tapers). Do these pots have similar tapers to the vintage amps?
Yes they do
When soldering, are you using anything for fume extraction?
Looks like it's time for some new strings brother😂✌️🤟
My truck.. dang it all
Is stuck in a puddle of alcohol.
I just finished building a couple of pedals and I can finally watch this without feeling guilty that I'm not up there soldering stuff.
Very good tutorial on soldering . I know of very few 1/4 watts that can hold up to 350 volt drop long term . 1/2 carbon can work . I go a bit over kill and us 1 watt for that drop . Have seen two watt used when .6 watts of power drop. Just a question how much one will spend and how long you want it to last. A good bit down the rabbit hole for most. Caig recommends faderlube first then deoxit if the faderlube is not enough on carbon pots . I do not think it that big a deal .
Thanks. There isn’t 350V across that resistor, but it’s got enough voltage that it should be treated like a plate resistor. I prefer some headroom there.
@@PsionicAudio The cost saving in these amps by using smaller resistors purchased in bulk give accountants a bad name. Building to last is considered over built to these very short sighted people. I refuse to call them engineers .
Every other control panel board I pull has unseated jack bodies. With respect to that sucker, if you cut the silicon tip to just below where the charging/ejector pin clears it at full compression, it will stay on much more reliably.
Thanks, I’ll give that a try.
Why do you not use a powered solder sucker?
Because they clog a lot.
I’m no repairman but I do own several vintage Fender amps one being an original 66 Super Reverb and I have to say… even after all the work you did on this amp the trem sounds weird. Maybe it’s just the reissue thing. Sometimes changing all those parts to make some kind of audiophile/hifi difference takes away something. Not saying anything about your work. You’re a fantastic repairman and I enjoy your videos, I just think sometimes you go a little overboard.
Wait till you hear the real mic test.
why not scrap the board with the pots and input jacks? shouldn't be that much work to hardwire that part like the originals were.
It’s actually a lot of work to do that. And the board holds up well with the tweaks I showed (and tightened nuts).
Can't find my truck at all 😅😅
'cause the missus drove it to the mall... ;)
Ahh, just tell people that leaded solder gives them a nice "heavy" sound. We won't tell. >:D