Thanks for this. I broke the middle three pins when trying to remove the new port after adding too much solder. They pulled up the pads so I cleaned the port pins again, removed the excess solder and just solder the outside pins (+5v and GND). Tablet just booted up at 1% and is charging! As an EE for about 15 years, this has reminded me that my soldering skills, while passable and generally OK for most repairs, aren't anywhere near these repair techs. I even bought new pinpoint tips for my Weller and still screwed it up! Thanks again!
It's highly possible the solder pads were pulled up before you tried soldering them. It's very common for the rear pins to get damaged which causes the charging port not to work.
Hey, did you have to run jumpers in your situation? I'm in a similar situation to you... pads were pulled when I removed the port to reseat it, and I think I'll need to run jumpers. I'm just not sure where to connect them on the logic board... any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
@@DaveJazzJaskolka I didn't because the outside pins were still intact. They carry the voltage to the port. I lost data from the three center pins but I never used it for data so I didn't even try to jumper it. Good luck with your project!
Thanks for this video and all the info. It's nice to see what you'll be up against before you go in. Sitting on those shield pins with the hot air for so long made me nervous, so I ended up clearing as much solder as I could with a pump and chiseltip iron/braid before loosening up the last little bit with the hot air. Anybody else ever wonder why all this miniaturized surface mount consumer electronics crap will have ten different types of snap-in, press-on ribbons and sockets going from part to part inside, some of which is carrying sensitive highspeed signals with no problems, yet the only couple parts that are semi-accessible to the end user and outside world always require microsurgery to replace? I can't figure why they can't put USB charge ports and coaxial DC jacks in their own little standardized modules with edge contacts or pin headers which could simply be popped out of the chassis and replaced with no soldering. I'm not suggesting a repair that the same guy that drops it down the flight of stairs to break it will be able to perform, but at least make it a bit easier for the service people. It's gotta be at the top of the list of things that typically get broken. Compare what we saw in the video to this: pry open the plastic chassis, unplug or slide out the jack module, slide in a two dollar replacement, snap the case back together. 😡
Now I know how to do this job successfully! I am no genius with electronics, but I can follow instructions when they are this clear. Too bad I broke the port cover piece tabs. Going to have to figure that one out myself.
Did you break the rear cover tabs? If so what color is your rear cover? I have extra covers I would be willing to provide you if you covered the cost of shipping.
This is good educational content. Thanks also for talking through the process and not including any annoying music. I learn best by watching. So what exactly is the alloy you were using? If the port was just loose, would cleaning and resoldering the connection fix the problem?
I use chip quick alloy when removing components from logic boards. I sell the alloy shown in this video via the link below. If the port is loose due to the rear pins becoming disconnect from the solder joints and there's no damage to the solder pads you could remove the old solder and resolder the pins.
Yeahhhhh I think I'll just get a new kindle. Changing the battery I got that part on your other video bet this seems a bit much. Thank you fir the videos.
Followed this guide and my dead Fire 8 (which is almost the same as the 10 internally) is back in working order. Hurrah! Thank you - £2.50 for the port on eBay and it's fixed! Could have done with a closer view of the work to do the rear pins (the hardest bit) but all in all it was a simple guide to follow - but it requires patience! Just to say, the flux & alloy is a must - it's very difficult to remove all the solder & therefore the broken port if you don't have this. Oh and I don't have a heat gun just a temperature controllable solder station, so it can definitely be done without! Thanks very much!
thank you for taking the time to do this. the laziness in me would want to skip straight to jumpering.... since i only care about charging and not data. but that assumes the jumpering is easy.
I will be making a how to video for installing jumper wires in the near future. However if you need assistance now for the HD 10 let me know, and I can either provide a diagram for running the jumper wire or walk you through the process.
@@outsourcerepairs Hey, did you ever end up uploading a video on running jumper wire? I've got a similar issue, and I'm really only concerned about charging (as opposed to data), so even just knowing which probe points to connect to for charging would probably get me through it. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!
Do you know if the back has to be on the 7th gen for it to charge. All my contacts were loose so i am trying to get away with resoldering them and adding some solder paste. Thanks
@@outsourcerepairs Thank You. Since the positive solder pad was lifted i ran the output of a powered usb cord to a ground on the board and what should be the positive test pad. Still no charging so no sense installing the port i ordered off of ebay unless i can figure out what else is wrong. I saw a video on what must have been a smaller version of the 7th gen and the problem turned out to be a usb charging IC. I have metal covers on the ICs so i don't know if it is under one of those covers. I have some experience with SMT so i wouldn't mind trying to fix the tablet instead of throwing it away.
Update: I took some strands of wire out of a piece of 18 gauge wiring. The strands are .0075 and I think they will work okay. I just need to order some solder mask
Rather than remove the port I took a charger with a bad cord connector a cut the wire off. I stripped the red and black wires and soldered directly to the red battery wire and to a ground screw. I used a data wire for strain relief. I have a pigtail on my HD20 with an adapter attached but it’s a minor inconvenience. I never use data transfer so this was a simple fix requiring simple tools. And took a lot less time.
I have done everything to remove moisture problem, I reflow some parts near to the charging port and it worked without the message anymore but now the message is back.
So, does the HD8 SX034QT charge port the share the same port for the HD10 7th gen? Only finding port for the HD8 at the moment, but need it for the HD10.
No the HD 8 port is not compatible with the HD 10. You can order the correct part via the link below. if you have any further questions please let me know. outsourcerepairs.com/collections/oem-parts/products/amazon-fire-hd-10-sl056ze-usb-charge-port
where can I get the whole charging board assembly? One was faulty, so I tried to replace it with one from a bricked device (from software downgrade). I damaged the pins on the ribbon connectors, so now both boards are bad. It's my sister's tablet, so I would l like to get it working for her, even though I bought her a new tablet for her birthday, I'd like to access the files on the Amazon to transfer to the new tablet. Thanks, Frank
seems like you needlessly get textolite overheated big time which probablt was the cause of damaged contact pads. why not to use those solder suckers like proskit ss331?
I wouldn't use a solder sucker(proskit ss331) for a surface mounted solder joint. I would for a through hole joint. The damage to the rear pins was why the device was not charging and the customer mailed it in to me. If you have any further questions please let me know.
It's an easy fix you need to run the jumper wires from the charge port pins to the corresponding probe points. Contact me on my website and I'll be able to assist you.
To order the mail in service follow the link below: outsourcerepairs.com/collections/amazon-kindle/products/amazon-fire-hd-10-usb-charge-port-repair-service To order a replacement charge port follow the link below: outsourcerepairs.com/collections/oem-parts/products/amazon-fire-hd-10-sl056ze-usb-charge-port
That's exactly what is happening with mine. I have to push the cord, it never goes higher than 1% (except two days ago. It charged to 73% while I was sleeping. No clue why) I'm afraid to take the thing apart, but thank you for the video. If I can find someone who fixed these, at least I'll know what they should do. What causes this? Does anyone know? I'm hesitant to buy another 10 if this is a common problem.
It must be a common problem since they are selling the connectors on Azon. I used a rubber band to hold the connector in place but when that failed Improvised another solution. See post.
Hi, do you still fix these? I need mine fixed and nothing near me can do it and do you offer if I can ship mines out to you and u can fix it than I can cash app or PayPal you the price? Please let me know, thanks.
You can order the flux via the link below: outsourcerepairs.com/collections/soldering-supplies/products/2ml-mg-chemiclas-8341-no-clean-flux-4-chipquick-alloy
I used some flux and then added solder to it. I used my tip to apply heat to both tabs on one side at the same time. Hold it there for longer than you think you should. I have a good soldering iron and I put it up to about 750.
I've attempted this repair, but from what I can tell, there is no external way to verify that a dead or nearly-dead battery is charging. Am I missing something? Anyway, I left it overnight and was very surprised to find it awake and at 56% with the lightning bolt charging indicator lit up. Thinking "job well done" I soldered the charge port cover back in place and re-assembled it. However, after reassembly, the charging indicator wouldn't come back on when plugged in. I have no idea why. I suppose it was a little suspicious that the battery wasn't at 100% for an overnight charge. So, I re-did everything and am now back at leaving it overnight because all I can see is that screen with the low battery with a little red in it. I'm pretty sure the key is getting those four pins soldered properly but they are so small and my limited experience makes it hard to tell I've done it right. Might have to consider a new battery, too, but not until I know that port is working.
Do you have a multimeter? Can you provide a picture of your solder job? If so contact me and I will assist you. I wouldn't replace the battery until you know for sure its the battery.
@@outsourcerepairs Yes, I have a multimeter. The solder job is awful, though. I did a better job the first time and got impatient with the second attempt didn't involve cleaning everything off and starting again. I'm also working with a wick only and no heat gun, flux, etc. Before starting my third attempt at this, I have ordered better a better magnifier than reading glasses and a headlamp and will clean everything off best I can, assuming I haven't destroyed the new port. I couldn't quite figure out how best to have those 4 pins make the best contact as it was all too small to see well. I do have pictures of the bad soldering I can send you, though. Zoomed in I can really see what a mess I made of it.
I purchased an Fire HD 10 Tablet (10.1" 1080p full HD display, 64 GB) tablet for my wife, back in Jan, 2020, now the other day it quite charging. and she left it on and totally discharged it. I bought another charge kit and it still doesn't charge. now what?
actually i broke the pin in the port and i repair it in the technician and its still not working the port is loose its moving and am at 18% I dont hab money to repair it again so.... idk what to do
That's exactly what I was thinking. Also the whole tin foil and board in the oven on lowest setting for 10 minutes I have fixed many electronics that way!..current repair request is a 7th gen fire hd that only charges if you wiggle just right. It's for a lady I work with mother's tablet. My proposition to her will be instead of paying me the money to repair the old 7th gen tablet how about we work out a deal for a brand new surface laptop go 12.3 inch touchscreen laptop. The tablet honestly weighs a little more with her case on it and they are really close In size. Better screen, processor, ram m.2 NVMe storage and will be easier to use than a tablet of this size and weight. The surface has windows 10 professional since it's a workstation laptop and not the consimer model that average people can buy at best buy etc. it came from my legitimate vendor. It's brand new in the box and I am only going to ask for $600-650, include a carrying case, USb c travel hub docking station and a cannon workforce printer. If she passes it up then she is out of her mind. I will also offer free support for a year(Total Electronic solutions) is my side buiessness.
you spent too much time heating the solder on on the board,. using a wick to suck up the solder is good for non pc board soldering. the less time you spend applying heat to the board the better, you need the vacuum solder sucker, you put the small nozzle near the connection, heat up the solder and press the trigger on the sucker, it will in turn remove all the solder for that connection. i use rosin core solder for all my connections, easy cleanup with alcohol. also if you keep adding heat the pad and track could lift from the board. you have spent at least 30 minutes of unnecessary heating of the pc board. you should take the military soldering class and learn the best ways to solder. i took the course through the Air Force and passed with flying colors. believe me you have to learn the new technical way to minimal soldering.
Thank you for taking the time out of your day to leave a comment. I truly appreciate it. I disagree with the method you suggest greatly. A vacuum solder sucker works good with through hold solder joints but I would never use one on a board this size. I am comfortable with solder wick and alloy method. Thank you for your time and have a great day.
Yes I can replace the charge port on a Fire HD 10. To view the service follow the link below: outsourcerepairs.com/collections/amazon-kindle/products/amazon-fire-hd-10-usb-charge-port-repair-service
I have this tablet the first year Amazon fixed it free but then another year they wanted to charge 100 dollars to fix it I looked up this tablet turns out all the fire hd ten tablets are defected and when it gets fixed it only last a year before it started doing it again don't have 100 dollars to keep spending like that my suggestion is never buy these tablets cause they are defected period.
Awesome video. As an amateur repairman I have to say you made it super clear and to the point!
Thant's an awesome comment, thank you for the feedback.
Thanks for this. I broke the middle three pins when trying to remove the new port after adding too much solder. They pulled up the pads so I cleaned the port pins again, removed the excess solder and just solder the outside pins (+5v and GND). Tablet just booted up at 1% and is charging!
As an EE for about 15 years, this has reminded me that my soldering skills, while passable and generally OK for most repairs, aren't anywhere near these repair techs. I even bought new pinpoint tips for my Weller and still screwed it up!
Thanks again!
It's highly possible the solder pads were pulled up before you tried soldering them. It's very common for the rear pins to get damaged which causes the charging port not to work.
See my alternative solution. We have age and big fingers in common probably.
Hey, did you have to run jumpers in your situation? I'm in a similar situation to you... pads were pulled when I removed the port to reseat it, and I think I'll need to run jumpers. I'm just not sure where to connect them on the logic board... any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
@@DaveJazzJaskolka I didn't because the outside pins were still intact. They carry the voltage to the port. I lost data from the three center pins but I never used it for data so I didn't even try to jumper it. Good luck with your project!
@@jonathanyimin4866 OK thanks for the info!
Thanks for this video and all the info. It's nice to see what you'll be up against before you go in. Sitting on those shield pins with the hot air for so long made me nervous, so I ended up clearing as much solder as I could with a pump and chiseltip iron/braid before loosening up the last little bit with the hot air.
Anybody else ever wonder why all this miniaturized surface mount consumer electronics crap will have ten different types of snap-in, press-on ribbons and sockets going from part to part inside, some of which is carrying sensitive highspeed signals with no problems, yet the only couple parts that are semi-accessible to the end user and outside world always require microsurgery to replace? I can't figure why they can't put USB charge ports and coaxial DC jacks in their own little standardized modules with edge contacts or pin headers which could simply be popped out of the chassis and replaced with no soldering. I'm not suggesting a repair that the same guy that drops it down the flight of stairs to break it will be able to perform, but at least make it a bit easier for the service people. It's gotta be at the top of the list of things that typically get broken. Compare what we saw in the video to this: pry open the plastic chassis, unplug or slide out the jack module, slide in a two dollar replacement, snap the case back together. 😡
Now I know how to do this job successfully! I am no genius with electronics, but I can follow instructions when they are this clear. Too bad I broke the port cover piece tabs. Going to have to figure that one out myself.
Did you break the rear cover tabs? If so what color is your rear cover? I have extra covers I would be willing to provide you if you covered the cost of shipping.
This is good educational content. Thanks also for talking through the process and not including any annoying music. I learn best by watching. So what exactly is the alloy you were using? If the port was just loose, would cleaning and resoldering the connection fix the problem?
I use chip quick alloy when removing components from logic boards. I sell the alloy shown in this video via the link below. If the port is loose due to the rear pins becoming disconnect from the solder joints and there's no damage to the solder pads you could remove the old solder and resolder the pins.
Thank you for the video! With this I was able to repair a HD10 Tablet 7.Gen.!
That's great!
Yeahhhhh I think I'll just get a new kindle. Changing the battery I got that part on your other video bet this seems a bit much. Thank you fir the videos.
Thank you for the feedback.
Followed this guide and my dead Fire 8 (which is almost the same as the 10 internally) is back in working order. Hurrah! Thank you - £2.50 for the port on eBay and it's fixed! Could have done with a closer view of the work to do the rear pins (the hardest bit) but all in all it was a simple guide to follow - but it requires patience! Just to say, the flux & alloy is a must - it's very difficult to remove all the solder & therefore the broken port if you don't have this.
Oh and I don't have a heat gun just a temperature controllable solder station, so it can definitely be done without! Thanks very much!
Congratulations on a successful repair and for sharing your experience.
thank you for taking the time to do this. the laziness in me would want to skip straight to jumpering.... since i only care about charging and not data. but that assumes the jumpering is easy.
I am glad this video helped you.
Can you show us how you connected the "jumper" wires?
I will be making a how to video for installing jumper wires in the near future. However if you need assistance now for the HD 10 let me know, and I can either provide a diagram for running the jumper wire or walk you through the process.
@@outsourcerepairs A diagram would be great. Thank you!!
I wish you had a video of how to put the jumpers in. The same thing happened to mine. Four out of five come off the board.
I will be uploading how to run a jumper wire in a future video. Hopefully you were able to resolve this issue.
@@outsourcerepairs please let us know. ours needs this. thank you
@@outsourcerepairs Hey, did you ever end up uploading a video on running jumper wire? I've got a similar issue, and I'm really only concerned about charging (as opposed to data), so even just knowing which probe points to connect to for charging would probably get me through it. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!
Who knew there were still modern devices that uses clips/snap action locking instead of glue still.
I think the hardest part to probably learn is at the 36:15 minute mark. You must be sure to hit all those contacts.
struggling with that now!!!!
Do you have a size or type of screwdriver i will need,just a manual one,thanks.
Do you know if the back has to be on the 7th gen for it to charge. All my contacts were loose so i am trying to get away with resoldering them and adding some solder paste. Thanks
No the back does not need to be on for the device to charge.
@@outsourcerepairs Thank You. Since the positive solder pad was lifted i ran the output of a powered usb cord to a ground on the board and what should be the positive test pad. Still no charging so no sense installing the port i ordered off of ebay unless i can figure out what else is wrong. I saw a video on what must have been a smaller version of the 7th gen and the problem turned out to be a usb charging IC. I have metal covers on the ICs so i don't know if it is under one of those covers. I have some experience with SMT so i wouldn't mind trying to fix the tablet instead of throwing it away.
Is the heat gun necessary, or can it all be done with the iron?
It can all be done with a soldering iron.
How much would you charge to replace my charge port in my kindle 10?
The repair cost $40.99 plus shipping.
What do you use for wire to make the jumpers? I tore 2 pads off in the de-soldering process.
Update: I took some strands of wire out of a piece of 18 gauge wiring. The strands are .0075 and I think they will work okay. I just need to order some solder mask
I use 0.10mm copper wire.
@@outsourcerepairs my repair order should be arriving today or tomorrow.
Great lesson!
Glad you liked it!
Rather than remove the port I took a charger with a bad cord connector a cut the wire off. I stripped the red and black wires and soldered directly to the red battery wire and to a ground screw. I used a data wire for strain relief. I have a pigtail on my HD20 with an adapter attached but it’s a minor inconvenience. I never use data transfer so this was a simple fix requiring simple tools. And took a lot less time.
HD10 not HD 20.
there are 2 red wires on the battery. which one did you use?
I have done everything to remove moisture problem, I reflow some parts near to the charging port and it worked without the message anymore but now the message is back.
So, does the HD8 SX034QT charge port the share the same port for the HD10 7th gen? Only finding port for the HD8 at the moment, but need it for the HD10.
No the HD 8 port is not compatible with the HD 10. You can order the correct part via the link below. if you have any further questions please let me know.
outsourcerepairs.com/collections/oem-parts/products/amazon-fire-hd-10-sl056ze-usb-charge-port
where can I get the whole charging board assembly? One was faulty, so I tried to replace it with one from a bricked device (from software downgrade). I damaged the pins on the ribbon connectors, so now both boards are bad. It's my sister's tablet, so I would l like to get it working for her, even though I bought her a new tablet for her birthday, I'd like to access the files on the Amazon to transfer to the new tablet. Thanks, Frank
Hello Frank, You can always buy replacement logic boards from eBay.
seems like you needlessly get textolite overheated big time which probablt was the cause of damaged contact pads. why not to use those solder suckers like proskit ss331?
I wouldn't use a solder sucker(proskit ss331) for a surface mounted solder joint. I would for a through hole joint. The damage to the rear pins was why the device was not charging and the customer mailed it in to me. If you have any further questions please let me know.
Trying the repair, but I have the 3 middle pads lifted. Do you have some instruction on which probe pads these wires should connect?
It's an easy fix you need to run the jumper wires from the charge port pins to the corresponding probe points. Contact me on my website and I'll be able to assist you.
To order the mail in service follow the link below:
outsourcerepairs.com/collections/amazon-kindle/products/amazon-fire-hd-10-usb-charge-port-repair-service
To order a replacement charge port follow the link below:
outsourcerepairs.com/collections/oem-parts/products/amazon-fire-hd-10-sl056ze-usb-charge-port
That's exactly what is happening with mine. I have to push the cord, it never goes higher than 1% (except two days ago. It charged to 73% while I was sleeping. No clue why)
I'm afraid to take the thing apart, but thank you for the video. If I can find someone who fixed these, at least I'll know what they should do.
What causes this? Does anyone know? I'm hesitant to buy another 10 if this is a common problem.
It's just wear from charging it. You may want to upgrade to the new Kindle 10 with a charge port Type C.
Planned obsolescence.
It must be a common problem since they are selling the connectors on Azon. I used a rubber band to hold the connector in place but when that failed Improvised another solution. See post.
Hi, do you still fix these? I need mine fixed and nothing near me can do it and do you offer if I can ship mines out to you and u can fix it than I can cash app or PayPal you the price?
Please let me know, thanks.
can you switch out the usb port to a usbc port?
Hello, No you cant convert the port from a USB to a USB C.
Where do you get your flux in an syringe?
You can order the flux via the link below:
outsourcerepairs.com/collections/soldering-supplies/products/2ml-mg-chemiclas-8341-no-clean-flux-4-chipquick-alloy
How much would you charge to fix my port on my fire hd 10
The cost to replace the charge port in your device is $89.99 + return shipping cost.
I've went thru 2 t5 torx bits on a screw that will not break loose. Literally twisted the bits. So frustrating.
Could a faulty battery cause the tablet to not charge too? I have jump started my battery to turn on my tablet but it isn't charging once it's on
Yes a defective battery could cause the device not to charge. You can test the charge port with a multi-meter.
Do u fix these for people
Yes I do.
Your price point, please.
I cannot get the bracket that covers the charging port off for the life of me. I don't have a heating tube. Any suggestions?
I used some flux and then added solder to it. I used my tip to apply heat to both tabs on one side at the same time. Hold it there for longer than you think you should. I have a good soldering iron and I put it up to about 750.
@@therising1 thank you for your response unfortunately mine only goes up to 450. It doesn’t seem to be hot enough to do the trick.
You can add alloy to thin out the lead free solder which will make it easier to remove the charge port cover.
@@outsourcerepairs I sort of gave up on it, do you still do repairs on it?
how the heck do i unscrew them its stomic eized what the heck
Why the jumper at the end?
The jumper was installed because the charge port solder pads are lifted.
I've attempted this repair, but from what I can tell, there is no external way to verify that a dead or nearly-dead battery is charging. Am I missing something? Anyway, I left it overnight and was very surprised to find it awake and at 56% with the lightning bolt charging indicator lit up. Thinking "job well done" I soldered the charge port cover back in place and re-assembled it. However, after reassembly, the charging indicator wouldn't come back on when plugged in. I have no idea why. I suppose it was a little suspicious that the battery wasn't at 100% for an overnight charge. So, I re-did everything and am now back at leaving it overnight because all I can see is that screen with the low battery with a little red in it. I'm pretty sure the key is getting those four pins soldered properly but they are so small and my limited experience makes it hard to tell I've done it right. Might have to consider a new battery, too, but not until I know that port is working.
Do you have a multimeter? Can you provide a picture of your solder job? If so contact me and I will assist you. I wouldn't replace the battery until you know for sure its the battery.
@@outsourcerepairs Yes, I have a multimeter. The solder job is awful, though. I did a better job the first time and got impatient with the second attempt didn't involve cleaning everything off and starting again. I'm also working with a wick only and no heat gun, flux, etc. Before starting my third attempt at this, I have ordered better a better magnifier than reading glasses and a headlamp and will clean everything off best I can, assuming I haven't destroyed the new port. I couldn't quite figure out how best to have those 4 pins make the best contact as it was all too small to see well. I do have pictures of the bad soldering I can send you, though. Zoomed in I can really see what a mess I made of it.
@@guu3528 Sorry for the delayed response. If possible send me a picture and I'll assist as much as possible.
I purchased an Fire HD 10 Tablet (10.1" 1080p full HD display, 64 GB) tablet for my wife, back in Jan, 2020, now the other day it quite charging. and she left it on and totally discharged it. I bought another charge kit and it still doesn't charge. now what?
actually i broke the pin in the port and i repair it in the technician and its still not working the port is loose its moving and am at 18% I dont hab money to repair it again so.... idk what to do
13%
Couldn't you just clean up the solder and reattach the original port assuming it's not damaged rather than buying the replacement ports?
If the port is not damaged you could.
That's exactly what I was thinking. Also the whole tin foil and board in the oven on lowest setting for 10 minutes I have fixed many electronics that way!..current repair request is a 7th gen fire hd that only charges if you wiggle just right. It's for a lady I work with mother's tablet. My proposition to her will be instead of paying me the money to repair the old 7th gen tablet how about we work out a deal for a brand new surface laptop go 12.3 inch touchscreen laptop. The tablet honestly weighs a little more with her case on it and they are really close In size. Better screen, processor, ram m.2 NVMe storage and will be easier to use than a tablet of this size and weight. The surface has windows 10 professional since it's a workstation laptop and not the consimer model that average people can buy at best buy etc. it came from my legitimate vendor. It's brand new in the box and I am only going to ask for $600-650, include a carrying case, USb c travel hub docking station and a cannon workforce printer. If she passes it up then she is out of her mind. I will also offer free support for a year(Total Electronic solutions) is my side buiessness.
you spent too much time heating the solder on on the board,. using a wick to suck up the solder is good for non pc board soldering. the less time you spend applying heat to the board the better, you need the vacuum solder sucker, you put the small nozzle near the connection, heat up the solder and press the trigger on the sucker, it will in turn remove all the solder for that connection. i use rosin core solder for all my connections, easy cleanup with alcohol. also if you keep adding heat the pad and track could lift from the board. you have spent at least 30 minutes of unnecessary heating of the pc board. you should take the military soldering class and learn the best ways to solder. i took the course through the Air Force and passed with flying colors. believe me you have to learn the new technical way to minimal soldering.
Thank you for taking the time out of your day to leave a comment. I truly appreciate it. I disagree with the method you suggest greatly. A vacuum solder sucker works good with through hold solder joints but I would never use one on a board this size. I am comfortable with solder wick and alloy method. Thank you for your time and have a great day.
Imma Try This cuz my kindle stopped working
wish me luck!!!!
If you have any questions let me know.
Can you replace the charging port on the fire HD 10 tablet?
Yes I can replace the charge port on a Fire HD 10. To view the service follow the link below:
outsourcerepairs.com/collections/amazon-kindle/products/amazon-fire-hd-10-usb-charge-port-repair-service
My Amazon 10 is in 100 small width I can't fix it 😭😭😭
More flux. ❤
whats in the syringe?
MG Chemicals #8341 No Clean flux
outsourcerepairs.com/collections/soldering-supplies/products/solder-sample-kit?variant=44520859860
I have this tablet the first year Amazon fixed it free but then another year they wanted to charge 100 dollars to fix it I looked up this tablet turns out all the fire hd ten tablets are defected and when it gets fixed it only last a year before it started doing it again don't have 100 dollars to keep spending like that my suggestion is never buy these tablets cause they are defected period.
Poor camera work.
Thank you for the feedback.