This video was perfect. I spent about 60-70 bucks mailing my item to a repair shop to have it fixed only for it to return and break again within a few weeks. After watching this video I decided to have a go at it and now it's charging. The repair shop did a BS job soldering the parts together. I didn't spare solder and wasn't going for perfection but still ended with a clean looking job. What really made me try it after watching this video is you opening the device with a steak knife.
Good job Peter! I have repaired a number of Kindles; this process is NOT for the beginner, faint of heart or those with marginal eyesight! The solder joints on the USB connector are tiny and the side grounding posts are simply TOO SHORT to penetrate through the PCB for a proper & secure solder on to the board. I've done many DIY electronics projects over the years and I have to say the USB port charging design on the Kindle Fire is one of THE worst designs I have ever seen! The device was clearly designed to have a maximum life span of only several hundred charging cycles before failure. The absence of a secure coaxial DC power port on the device should be a crime. Do not purchase a Kindle Fire thinking that it will last for a long time, because the only way that will happen, is if you rarely use it!
@@bd_bandkanon almost any other brand except apple will outperform the kindle in both substance and longevity. Plenty of yt vids against both kindle and apple. Almost as many extolling all other brands. You might want to check out the Zenpad. The 8.0 is similar to the ipad but has more features and is way cheaper.
This was my first attempt at repairing the DC jack on a Kindle. When I first saw how small the 5 pins were I thought to myself that no way can my 56 year old eyes do this, Then I watched your video. I have to say you did a fantastic job with this video and the repair, Thank you so much. I'm off to attempt my repair.
Helen, Mine was thick too. I used a very small amount of solder; just what would stick to the iron. I always used grounded tip on electronics but if you disconnect the batter first, it isn't going to matter in most cases. Don't worry about the flux, just get heat the traces so that the shine. pulling backwards along the trace will spread solder along the trace and seems to work well.
I've had two original Kindle Fires. I had to have them replaced two times each while they were under warranty for this same reason. Now that they are no longer under warranty, one of these won't charge at all. Short of throwing it away, I'm definitely going to try this. Thank you!
Everything came apart exactly as simple as your video showed. I did find the USB was completely disconnected and it took me several attempts to get the PCB back in as I was leveraging off the USB and the cover each time...finally got it back and it is now recharging just fine again (had to re-solder each time though to be sure it was okay). I had to buy the iron as the one I had is an old Weller unit that is surely not 15W. Radio Shack online had one for $15 plus the 60/40 solder set me back $4. Purchased a multi-tool screw driver set for $3 that had a 000PH and a 00PH. So for less than $24 bucks, back in business! Best Buy Geek Squad told me they would charge $150 to perform the labor! What a joke and THANK YOU for the detail. I am not the best soldering guy either especially with little parts but got it done!
I also have a couple of very small flat screwdrivers that helped. A letter opener with a thin edge could work too. Also try starting near the speaker or an opening in the case.
Wow I just purchased the Fire HD 8. They were trying to push the warranty on me. I asked, if I get this warranty and have a problem with the tablet, are you going to take my new tablet and give me a refurbished one. The lady said no, we don't service tablets or send them out for service, we'll just give you a new one. I didn't believe her. They tryed to charge this guy...BIG MONEY FOR A FIX WOW
Going to try this this afternoon. Bought a Fire for my wife for Mother's Day last year. Right after the warranty was up, it stopped charging. It amazes me that neither best buy nor the company that makes the thing would help my wife.
Outstanding question and one that might help other folks, so thank you. Take it to someone that can. Simply search for electronics repair shop {city name} and see what comes up. In San Jose, Ca I get a ton of them. These guys all know how to solder. Show them the video, they will be happy to pull the board for you. It might be cheaper to pull the board and bring the board and connector to them. They will know what to do. Good luck.
Just repaired my kindle fire with your vid! It wouldn't charge and the warranty expired a few months ago. I either had to pay about $150 for repairs or buy a new kindle. So the option of taking a little time and buying a $10 soldering kit from Wal-Mart sounded great. [Never soldered before in my life...had to watch a how-to solder tutorial vid :)] You gave great/ easy to follow instructions. And my kindle is charging as we speak. Thanks for the upload!
@brady... Okay, iron might be too hot. You can solder a small 'bonding' wire and fillow the trace backwards and join it at another point. solder traces are just wires.
@Aaron Burns - If you use a higher wattage iron, it is simply going to be hotter. For electronics, low wattage and grounded tip are preferred, although neither are required. If the iron is too hot you risk lifting the traces or getting cold solder joints. You can simply work faster but this can lead to another cold solder joint. While this bad, it is totally better than lifting a trace (which is not the end of the world either, as it is only a wire and usually can be replaced).I like to heat the components that I am working on to get the solder to flow nicely.
Peter Carcione What size tip are you using? How small are the traces? Are they far enough apart that they will self separate? Also, putting solder on the iron will help the heat transfer, but soldering off the iron is the definition of a cold solder joint.
I used to solder for an itt company and I always soldered with solder on my iron. Which we called carrying our solder. I had never heard the term cold solder joint, we were just told this is bad fix it lol I know the way to fix them though, you need flux and heat as flux paves the way so to speak for a smooth solder joint. I'm looking at getting a soldering iron as my mom's kindle fire has stopped taking charge, it fell in the floor and I'm guessing it's knocked loose the usb port thing. The one I'm looking at on amazon is a 60w iron, as I do have experience with soldering I think it'll still be alright, I can't find a 15w iron on amazon anywhere. I'll just have to work fast and not hold the iron on the board long. I wish I had a microscope to work with as well but I don't.
Just used this to fix my wife's Kindle Fire. Everything worked fine, except that the USB socket was still firmly attached...so I reflowed all of its connections, and that did the trick. Thanks for a very helpful video!
Great video Peter! I would never have attempted to check out my friends Kindle problem if I had not seen your post on TH-cam. When disassembled, it was exactly as your described. At 73, eyesight and steady hand are just not what they used to be, so I have a friend who has volunteered to do this process and I hope the end results will be exactly as your video showed. I will keep you posted!
It is probably just a gap pad. I have seen them used to fill the gap between the PCB and the connector. If it fits there, that would be my guess. Otherwise, it could be used on the other side, to give the port more rigidity and keep it from moving. It would be nice to know that they have addressed this problem.
Jaime, Yes, new micro USB ports are available but finding the right one that attaches exactly the right way, with the same through-hole alignment and the same port depth can be tricky. There are like 100 different manufactures, each with a slightly different variation of the same loosely adhered to spec. If the product did not have an outer case with such tight tolerances, finding a replacement would be easier. Try to work with the original port, if possible.
Not sure what sized tip, though I did get a new tip before attempting this. I think the secret is working front to back. This spreads excess solder along entire trace and makes excess balloon out back...so no touching other traces. No problem bridging while soldering...there is no power at this point... take your time
I am living with my fourth original Fire, and while it was still in warranty, I'd simply call Amazon,and because I'm a member of Prime, they'd send me a new one immediately, and I had thirty days to return the defective unit. I received my last replacement Kindle Fire on the day my warranty expired. Now, it's out of warranty, and I'll try your repair instructions. Thanks!
Hey, Peter. You just saved me hundreds of dollars by your video. My problem was in the usb connector. It was poorly soldered on and got loose as you plug in and unplug as you use it. I used my iso tip cordless for fine point soldering. Then I had to try all my charger-cords to see whch was compatible. I owe you lunch. Thanks again.
Good point. True. With 3 kindles and 4 android phones, we have so many micro usb connectors we checked that without thinking. Those cables and connectors do wear out. You should also make sure that your kindle is not locked up.
I will attempt the repair, my son's kindle won't charge anymore, not the first one. Your video is the only one I found that actually shows and explains how to do the repair!! Thank you so much, I will let you know how it goes.
Yes, it is best not to let them touch. Swiping towards back can reduce this by spreading solder along traces. Only outside traces are for power. Center traces are for datelines. Good luck
Kyle, This is exactly how the problem starts. The traces are cracked and holding it just the right way bends the traces just enough for it to touch and charge. Soon, this we become more and more troublesome and then you will be one of us. :) Since you are out of warranty, it might be worth taking 10minutes and giving it a go. IF you don't want to, I am sure someone would buy it now that everyone knows how to fix it.
Hey Killa, So it will charge when you plug it into the wall - that is good. Some computers only provide 5v@500ma over USB2, but the brick for the wall provides 5@1A that is 2x more than some PCs. That is why you might not be charging or charging slowly. Sound like you are up an running, but if not... a Kindle Fire 2, it is most likely still under its one year warranty. I would get it fixed by Amazon directly.
Sure. The connector is very small but it does have two alignment pins that stick through the board. Those holes are called Via's. First step is to heat up the old solder- swipe the legs front to back, not side to side. just to make sure there is enough solder. If not, add a little bit. Next. Fill the Vias with solder - mine had nothing in them (probably why it got stressed). Next heat the filled vias from the otherside and get the connector onto the board...now your pins are lined up and you can
As someone who has soldered and doesn't do it regularly, puling all of this out of the Kindle to try is a bit much. I guess if I really thought it was on it's last legs I would definitely try. I know I'd have the video up and following step by step!!! A lot of great info.
My goal was to help one or two other people out there. I definitely did not expect to have 600,000 view out of this. Yes, a new kindle is $49 and will keep all your programs and books because it is in the cloud.
Yeah!! I fixed it. I watched another vid to learn which connector was what and found that the big golden(ish) one on the side is the touch screen. I made sure the holes in the side lined up with the screw holes before I locked it down. Now it turns on, swipes, and charges! Thanks again for your excellent video.
This is awesome; I fixed my son's Kindle, although it takes some dexterity, and in my case a lot of various magnifying glasses. I just used an old (15 Watt?) soldering iron I got a long time ago from Radio Shack. I carefully cleaned up the metal contacts with some very fine wet-or-dry sandpaper and a tiny screwdriver tip before the soldering part; never used any actual flux, other that what's in the solder. Thanks!
This helped, but not because I had to replace the charger. My kindle wouldn't reset, but when I watched your video (perusing the web for a way to fix my dang tablet), I noticed that the battery had a removable connector to the device (the little rainbow-cable). So, I popped my kindle open, barely disconnected that cable for a few seconds, slapped it back in and voila, I now have a way to "hard-reset" my device! Good video, not exactly what you intended but it worked!
I am a certified solderer and an electronic inspector. I just watched your video, and I will be taking my Kindle to work and I am going to give it a try. My usb does not work, except if I finagle it. Wish me luck and I will get back to you with the results. Thanks for the video...
Interesting. Check the battery connector to make sure that it is seated all the way. If that doesn't work, I would unplug the battery and try powering it from the battery terminals. Make sure to match power specs of battery - not sure if the power adapter will help in this but it might.
Thanks, Peter Carcione. I tried this about a year ago and didn't get enough of a build up on the traces due to a wider tip. Used a fine tip the second time and fixed my wife's old original Kindle. Granddaughter has one that won't charge either so I will be looking at that when they come the fourth.
Ken Claridge Great! I am glad that you got it to work. The only thing better than feeling like a hero is when your granddaughter thinks your a hero. I cant wait for the new USB 3.1 connector - sure hope that it is better.Happy 4th, almost.
Good clear instructions for removing the PCB. It's a pity that mine didn't have a loose USB connector to fix and, being a UK version, the PCB didn't show the soldered connections at the back of that connector (not that I have the dexterity to undertake soldering on such a small space). In the end, disturbing the system didn't fix the problem (I didn't really expect it to), but it was a good exercise in accessing the insides of an old Fire. Thanks
Thanks to this video I gained the courage to open the case and perform the repair. My USB connector was also broken away from its solder tabs and I performed the repair as described in the video... it worked. I used a 25W iron I had on hand and filed a very fine point on the soldering iron tip. I would recommend a jewelers loop or a magnifier to do this repair. This stuff gets smaller as I get older! Thanks for the video!
Thank you for sharing this video. My Kindle fire stopped taking a charge about 6 months ago and my warranty is up. I thought I would be a good Idea to take it apart and check out what was going on, upon looking for instructions of some sort for opening the device I stumbled on your video and I'm very happy because I think my connector is miss hitting because it works when jiggled. Gonna try this, thank you!
You have successfully addressed a wide spread problem with the kindle fire. As a temp fix. I fiddled e With the cord until it made contact with the printed circuit board you mentioned. I'll work on tHe fix when I get a sodder device. You have motivated me to fix it myself. Thanks so much
Wow!!!! I was ready to dive in and learn how to replace the battery on my 18 month old Kindle Fire, which quit working yesterday. Your advise on holding down the power button for 10 seconds WORKED!!!! You are a genius and thank you a hundred times over!!!
I have always used a grounded tip on electronics but this is a pretty simple fix. Just reheat the solder traces and get out... so, perhaps it is overkill; it depends on where you live (Las Vegas residents should used grounded everything since static electricity is everywhere and electronics hate that).
My Fire has been getting progressively worse. Propping/jiggling worked for awhile, but nothing seems to help now. I think I'm ready to try your suggested fix. Thanks for the how-to video.
Beware when opening the case of the copper foil piece by the lower left corner shown in the video. Keep your knife very shallow or away from this spot as much as possible. The touch screen operation was lost from slicing part of this foil which is right next to the edge of the case which appears to be hard wired underneath.
Thank-you, Peter. I got mine charging again using your instructional video. The only potential problem seems that I started to tear that copper colored ribbon cable when fishing it out during reassembly. Hopefully, not too much damage done.
I had a similar problem that developed with mine. Turns out it would charge, but not boot. Cracked it open after watching your video and found a small problem with one of the connections to the card. Works like new, now. Thank you.
Try doing a reset first. Do this by holding down power button for 10 seconds. Do this twice. If it still does not turn on, it could be a charging problem. Do you get a charge light when plugging in? If you wiggle the connector a little? Try another adapter, if so. If you still need to wiggle the adapter, you might have a loose connector like the rest of us. 14,000 and growing so not so rare.
Sincere thanks for this post. I was able to fix my daughter's Kindle all by myself. Think she was impressed that Mom knew how to solder. Your instructions were so clear and made the process easy and unintimidating. Thanks again.
Great to hear. My kids thought I was kind of a genius too. Take a look at my other video that shows how to sideload applications from the Google Store, not just the Kindle Store... There are hundreds of thousands more programs on that Google store that will work in the Kindle just fine.
Oh, wow, thank you for this. As soon as the shops are open I'm off to get myself a soldering iron. I'll report back as soon as I'm done -- like you say, it's not under warranty any longer, and it can't hurt to try!
Good job! I have an almost new kindle first generation that my wife bought with the same problem. I have all the tools and more importantly I have the time as I retired recently. thanks for the video. Update, the USB connector didn't fall on mine off like yours did in the video and the 5 leads were well soldered down. I was the metal tabs on the connector that didn't have solder and didn't want to accept soldering until it was clean up. Then it took solder and the battery charged no problems. Thanks for the video.
Just thought I'd add what fixed mine. It appeared it was not charging because the screen did not display anything. I took it apart and measured 3.7 Volts on the battery.... which is what the battery said on it. I decided to try and disconnect the battery for a few seconds, then plug it back in. That fixed my issue.... Thanks for the disassembly portion, that helped out!
Hmmm, I think it would be easier to just get a new adapter. Get the USB to Micro USB kind. These can be used in the car, airplane, on travel and are cheap to replace. The micro-USB connector is so small and the alignment so critical, I would just get a new one given the low cost. If this is your only issue, pat yourself on the back and plug-in carefully from now on. as you can see from the growing number of views, the connector is delicate.
This is great! I got my Kindle a year and a half ago and all of a sudden one day it took hours for it to even charge 15 percent, and then it would die very quickly. So I'm going to try this out and see how it works! Thank you!
@munjaudarti... 15 watt. Hotter irons can cause problems...heat traces too much can lift em... like brady s post. It can be done but that's another thing too worry about. Good luck
You reminded me of the little white retainers I removed from the ribbon cables. Unfortunately, you didn't show this part of the reassembly. I had pulled the retainers off the connector and was unable to reinstall them so I cut a little squares from shrink sleeving and pushed them into the connector to secure the ribbon cables. Might have been simpler and cheaper had the Fire been manufactured that way . Thanks for caring.
These instructions are quite good. But caution, this is not a task for the faint of heart or skill. I have a good amount of electronic soldering experience, and admittedly was not using a tiny needle tip but I did not get it done right the first time and was really fighting to not short out the tiny, close pads. On my unit the little ground pads at the back of the connector had torn away. Possibly while I was trying to get the connector out so be careful in that step. But the five tiny signal connections on the connector were just lifted off the pads which means they were cold solder joints from the factory. Clearly inadequate process control in manufacturing. On my unit the connector also had ground posts that went through the board and these had not been soldered. I recommend doing that as it makes a stronger mechanical connection for future knocking around. Thanks so much for the video. While it was not an easy repair I am once more a hero for my granddaughter.
Hello - wonderful presentation! Can I use a cordless 15W soldering iron? You were particular about the grounded tip, so I wanted to be sure before I purchased one?
Your video is very informative, and you make the process seem so simple. I however, have never soldered anything in my life, but I do know a few people who have. Hopefully, with the aid of this video, they'll agree to perform electronic surgery for me. Question though... I may or may not have damaged the charger port itself. If I do these repairs, and it still doesn't work, is it possible to buy a new port?
That's even better. I bet that the some of the connectors are cracked (may be macroscopic, but you may need some help to see it). I bet that if you put the connector in and gently shift left and right, you will see that there are broken connections. Since you are attached, you have good alignment. just heat them up on at at time and drag straight back. This will reactivate the solder and make a new (tin looking) connection. You can add solder to the through-hole pins if they were not solder.d
Batteries can become so "drained" that the loose their polarity. Since my three kids play with their kindles every day - I don't think your battery is dead already. It appears to be a good one. I bet that it is just your connector. On the connector, the power pins are on the outside, Pins 1 and 5. Data lines are in the middle. Concentrate on the sides with solder iron.
Oh Boy! Just found out my kindle isn't holding a charge now. I am going to attempt this! I hope I can do the soldering portion. Fingers crossed! Thank you for this video!
Thanks very much: I was about to purchase a battery but then turned to TH-cam and fortunately found your much appreciated video...but before embarking on disassembly, I put a charger on the kindle and gently wiggled the port...GREEN charge light came on! Thank you.
Thanks Peter for this video! This is what I need to do with my Kindle! I just need to go buy a soldering tool and the wire. I will go to home depot this week-end and let you know how I did! Wish me luck!
I have the same Same problem with the connector. Awesome video and teaching lesson. I will begin tomorrow and see how it goes. Thanks for giving me the knowledge and courage to attempt this. I'll let you know if its successful but now I THINK I can do it! Thanks to you!
My connector locks are not attached to the ribbon cables. They come right off when I disconnect them. These things are microscopic and I'm sure will be a ton of fun trying to get back on. One of my posts on the port is loose, the solder I have is really thick stuff and I'm a little overwhelmed tryin to get this thing to seat and put fresh solder in that microscopic hole on the bottom side. I think I will try to get a different gun and smaller solder and retry. Great video tho...thanks.
Great information. I used this video to fix my wife's Kindle Fire. Well, it's charging now still doesn't have enough power to stay on yet. Wish you had showed us how you put those tiny white plastic clips back in though.LOL. I spent a lot so time cursing them.thanks again for the information it was very helpfull.
Peter, thanks so much for this! It is exactly what's happening with my Kindle Fire...of course out of warranty. Amazon offered me discounts on a new one but, shouldn't something that costs $200 last longer than this? I am going to have my son try your fix on my Kindle and will let you know if it worked! As you say, nothing to lose...
Oh I hope I can do the guides, your head was blocking the view a piece but the balloon notes were helpful when the view was obscured. Thank you BTW for posting this.
It does sound like you are having the same issue as the rest of us. Many people, myself included, have been successful in doing this procedure but it is not for the weak of heart. Watch the video and see if it looks doable to you. If not, I would take it to a local electron repair shop, show them the video and see if they can do it for you. We would all be interested to know what the quote is cost wise.
They simply stop charging after a few months. Amazon has replaced it twice. I have spoken to numerous people with the same problem. My sister and several friends have had iPads for yrs with zero problems. Even my sister's Kindle Dire stopped charging and had to have it replaced. Spending more money on an iPad vs this frustration is a win!
My first Kindle Fire was replaced by Amazon because of this problem. Six months later, my replacement Kindle Fire developed the same problem. Amazon has refused to make their defective product good. So, since it doesnt work anyway, I have nothing to lose. You can bet I'm going to try this.
Your video was very helpful in identifying the problem. However I an the type that takes something apart and never am able to reassemble. Also could never work with a soldering tool. Wish that I could, with your instruction would be able to repair my Kindle. May be cheaper to replace. Thanks, very informative.
Let us know if there is any success with this. It appears that while the connector is indeed faulty, it did last though the warranty period for most of us and now we are staring down a very expensive non-warranty repair.
You lost me when you got to the soldering part, but what a well-done instructional video! Now I'm thinking I know what's wrong with my husband's original Kindle Reader.
awesome!! THANKS for the video! I took the kindle apart step by step with your vid and of course it was not connected! so now i'm gonna wait for my husband to finish it with the soldering =) will let you know if we get it and fix it!! thank again for the video, if we get it we will have one happy 11 year old!!!
***** Just about anykind will do. Sometimes you can just use what is on the board. A little more will let you fill those mounts on the sides. good Luck.
This is the exact problem I have had with my Kindle. This looks like a doable repair. I do have a question about the usb port. Mine was not connected at all , just like in your video. When I lifted it out there was a small black foam piece. I am not sure how it should be seated. Any suggestions on where it should be? Thanks so much for this video!
This is VERY IMPORTANT. Before you do this, hold the power button for at least 20 seconds (30 is better). Holding it for 10 seconds may not illicit a response (on mine it did not). The Kindle Fire can get locked up and only holding the button for at least 20 seconds will reset it. While it is thus locked, it won't charge, turn on, or otherwise exhibit signs of life. Mine was doing this after my son got ahold of it and the 20 second trick worked. Considering I was seriously considering opening it up, that saved me a lot of pain!
10 seconds is overkill, it is a 6 second timer for the reset... but hey, it never hurts to hold it a few more seconds. one missisippi, two missisippi, .... :)
Sorry, I couldn't possibly take responsibly for receiving, repairing and sending back hundreds of devices. Look at how many people have had this issue!!. If someone knows of a place to get these units reared, please post here.
Fixed my USB a while back. Still had issues. Found that if the kindle sat for a week or two, it would start working. Then after touching or pinching a certain area of the kindle, it would just go dead immediately. No display; no charge light. After sitting another week or two, it would work again. This happened continually. I pulled it apart and was looking for cold solder joints. Found nothing. Then I noticed the thermal gap pad at the 4:24 mark of this video. On the thermal gap pad, I could see impressions from the circuit board touching it. Looking closer, I found short and very fine (finer than cat hair) strands of copper wire laying and stuck on that thermal pad. Those were the problem. When the circuit board was pressed against the gap pad, those wires shorted the board out. As the kindle rested, the pad slowly pulled away from the board and pulled the wires away from the board also. The kindle works perfect now. I've tried to simulate the problem that was constant, but it keeps working now.
Typical - always harder to reassemble than take apart! Thought I had it made. I had everything reassembled till I came to the ribbon connection closest to the port. I worked for 30 minutes trying to reattach. Wouldn't go because the ribbon was too fat for the clip ( knew I must be doing something wrong because I took it off). Kept going until the clip broke off the board. Is there anyway to repair this. I'm very frustrated that I was so close yet so far. Did enjoy your video and if I could offer a suggestion I would ask you to spend a little more time on reassembly - thanks.
+Tim Bolchoz Thanks. At the time I made the video, my only goal was to help someone. I had no idea that it would reach hundreds of thousands of people. That was a bit of an eye opener. The good news is the new Kindle Fire Tablets are only $49 now. An amazing deal. Surprised the ribbon connector was giving you trouble. There is a pull tab, which made the ribbon thicker and had to be carefully tucked inside the case. The gold teeth part should have been thin enough to fit in the open ribbon receptical; it was open, wasn't it. Things are really tiny, I know.
Yeah, I bought a new one before I tried to fix my first one. The new one has Bluetooth and a camera but loaded with a lot mote junk. I wanted to fix the old one on which my granson had stored many games. I haven't given up yet...but I'm getting closer. Thanks again and now I'll watch your soldering video.
Hello Peter, the video doesn't show very well the solder part. Can you please describe quickly how do that? Id like to try myself soon. Thanks for the helpful instructions
If you have a new Kindle, you are within your warranty period. I would get it fixed under warranty. This was just for those of us with the older Kindle that is out of warranty.
It sounds like the same issue. I was able to limp by for several weeks by propping up the kindle while charging, but eventually I had a open it up to fix it.
Since it has been awhile, have you had the problem crop up again? As it seems to be a design flaw due to the stress of the case and also of plugging/unplugging. Would some Loctite 2-part epoxy across the USB and PCB help? Maybe perhaps dremeling the opening on the case ? It did seem to be a problem when putting the board back ion. Thanks.
I have 3 kids and fixed all of their units. 2 have needed a 2nd repair, albeit months later. Like the epoxy idea and may have to give it a go next time I am in there.
so i took apart my kindle fire because it won't charge and the usb port is fine on it but their is only the big plug coming from the battery that you have to grip the sides and pull out. the connection right next to the big one, it doesn't go to anything. is that normal? their is nothing plugged into it but it doesnt look like anything is supposed to go to it. i hope i didn't confuse you. any help would be awesome on what's wrong with my kindle. thanks!
What size tip are you using? And, what do you recommend to do if some of the connector pins have broken off and are still soldered to the PCB? ...And, what to do if you accidentally bridge the pins while soldering? Thanks.
This video was perfect. I spent about 60-70 bucks mailing my item to a repair shop to have it fixed only for it to return and break again within a few weeks. After watching this video I decided to have a go at it and now it's charging. The repair shop did a BS job soldering the parts together. I didn't spare solder and wasn't going for perfection but still ended with a clean looking job. What really made me try it after watching this video is you opening the device with a steak knife.
Good job Peter!
I have repaired a number of Kindles; this process is NOT for the beginner, faint of heart or those with marginal eyesight! The solder joints on the USB connector are tiny and the side grounding posts are simply TOO SHORT to penetrate through the PCB for a proper & secure solder on to the board.
I've done many DIY electronics projects over the years and I have to say the USB port charging design on the Kindle Fire is one of THE worst designs I have ever seen! The device was clearly designed to have a maximum life span of only several hundred charging cycles before failure. The absence of a secure coaxial DC power port on the device should be a crime.
Do not purchase a Kindle Fire thinking that it will last for a long time, because the only way that will happen, is if you rarely use it!
know of any good alternatives? I want to get something better for my mom and myself both, seeing as it's such a hassle to fix...
@@bd_bandkanon almost any other brand except apple will outperform the kindle in both substance and longevity. Plenty of yt vids against both kindle and apple. Almost as many extolling all other brands. You might want to check out the Zenpad. The 8.0 is similar to the ipad but has more features and is way cheaper.
@@twicebittenthasme5545 Thanks! I'll definitely check that one out.
U wrote a whole essay
@@iiifeelinqsiiii6736 And you read a whole essay.
This was my first attempt at repairing the DC jack on a Kindle. When I first saw how small the 5 pins were I thought to myself that no way can my 56 year old eyes do this, Then I watched your video. I have to say you did a fantastic job with this video and the repair, Thank you so much. I'm off to attempt my repair.
Helen, Mine was thick too. I used a very small amount of solder; just what would stick to the iron. I always used grounded tip on electronics but if you disconnect the batter first, it isn't going to matter in most cases. Don't worry about the flux, just get heat the traces so that the shine. pulling backwards along the trace will spread solder along the trace and seems to work well.
I've had two original Kindle Fires. I had to have them replaced two times each while they were under warranty for this same reason. Now that they are no longer under warranty, one of these won't charge at all. Short of throwing it away, I'm definitely going to try this. Thank you!
Everything came apart exactly as simple as your video showed. I did find the USB was completely disconnected and it took me several attempts to get the PCB back in as I was leveraging off the USB and the cover each time...finally got it back and it is now recharging just fine again (had to re-solder each time though to be sure it was okay). I had to buy the iron as the one I had is an old Weller unit that is surely not 15W. Radio Shack online had one for $15 plus the 60/40 solder set me back $4. Purchased a multi-tool screw driver set for $3 that had a 000PH and a 00PH. So for less than $24 bucks, back in business! Best Buy Geek Squad told me they would charge $150 to perform the labor! What a joke and THANK YOU for the detail. I am not the best soldering guy either especially with little parts but got it done!
I also have a couple of very small flat screwdrivers that helped. A letter opener with a thin edge could work too. Also try starting near the speaker or an opening in the case.
Wow
I just purchased the Fire HD 8. They were trying to push the warranty on me.
I asked, if I get this warranty and have a problem with the tablet, are you going to take my new tablet and give me a refurbished one.
The lady said no, we don't service tablets or send them out for service, we'll just give you a new one. I didn't believe her.
They tryed to charge this guy...BIG MONEY FOR A FIX
WOW
Going to try this this afternoon. Bought a Fire for my wife for Mother's Day last year. Right after the warranty was up, it stopped charging. It amazes me that neither best buy nor the company that makes the thing would help my wife.
Outstanding question and one that might help other folks, so thank you.
Take it to someone that can. Simply search for electronics repair shop {city name} and see what comes up. In San Jose, Ca I get a ton of them. These guys all know how to solder. Show them the video, they will be happy to pull the board for you. It might be cheaper to pull the board and bring the board and connector to them. They will know what to do. Good luck.
Just repaired my kindle fire with your vid! It wouldn't charge and the warranty expired a few months ago. I either had to pay about $150 for repairs or buy a new kindle. So the option of taking a little time and buying a $10 soldering kit from Wal-Mart sounded great. [Never soldered before in my life...had to watch a how-to solder tutorial vid :)]
You gave great/ easy to follow instructions. And my kindle is charging as we speak. Thanks for the upload!
@brady... Okay, iron might be too hot. You can solder a small 'bonding' wire and fillow the trace backwards and join it at another point. solder traces are just wires.
@Aaron Burns - If you use a higher wattage iron, it is simply going to be hotter. For electronics, low wattage and grounded tip are preferred, although neither are required. If the iron is too hot you risk lifting the traces or getting cold solder joints. You can simply work faster but this can lead to another cold solder joint. While this bad, it is totally better than lifting a trace (which is not the end of the world either, as it is only a wire and usually can be replaced).I like to heat the components that I am working on to get the solder to flow nicely.
Peter Carcione What size tip are you using? How small are the traces? Are they far enough apart that they will self separate? Also, putting solder on the iron will help the heat transfer, but soldering off the iron is the definition of a cold solder joint.
Peter Carcione Thank you so much, My wife and kids are eternally grateful that I was able to fix their kindle.
Matt Borden Outstanding... It is great to be a super hero to the kids. Glad to help.
+Peter Carcione help please T__T
I used to solder for an itt company and I always soldered with solder on my iron. Which we called carrying our solder. I had never heard the term cold solder joint, we were just told this is bad fix it lol I know the way to fix them though, you need flux and heat as flux paves the way so to speak for a smooth solder joint. I'm looking at getting a soldering iron as my mom's kindle fire has stopped taking charge, it fell in the floor and I'm guessing it's knocked loose the usb port thing. The one I'm looking at on amazon is a 60w iron, as I do have experience with soldering I think it'll still be alright, I can't find a 15w iron on amazon anywhere. I'll just have to work fast and not hold the iron on the board long. I wish I had a microscope to work with as well but I don't.
Just used this to fix my wife's Kindle Fire. Everything worked fine, except that the USB socket was still firmly attached...so I reflowed all of its connections, and that did the trick. Thanks for a very helpful video!
Outstanding!!
Great video Peter! I would never have attempted to check out my friends Kindle problem if I had not seen your post on TH-cam. When disassembled, it was exactly as your described. At 73, eyesight and steady hand are just not what they used to be, so I have a friend who has volunteered to do this process and I hope the end results will be exactly as your video showed. I will keep you posted!
It is probably just a gap pad. I have seen them used to fill the gap between the PCB and the connector. If it fits there, that would be my guess. Otherwise, it could be used on the other side, to give the port more rigidity and keep it from moving. It would be nice to know that they have addressed this problem.
Jaime,
Yes, new micro USB ports are available but finding the right one that attaches exactly the right way, with the same through-hole alignment and the same port depth can be tricky. There are like 100 different manufactures, each with a slightly different variation of the same loosely adhered to spec. If the product did not have an outer case with such tight tolerances, finding a replacement would be easier. Try to work with the original port, if possible.
Thank you! The reset worked...less than 60 seconds into your video and my wife's Kindle is up and running!
Not sure what sized tip, though I did get a new tip before attempting this. I think the secret is working front to back. This spreads excess solder along entire trace and makes excess balloon out back...so no touching other traces. No problem bridging while soldering...there is no power at this point... take your time
I am living with my fourth original Fire, and while it was still in warranty, I'd simply call Amazon,and because I'm a member of Prime, they'd send me a new one immediately, and I had thirty days to return the defective unit. I received my last replacement Kindle Fire on the day my warranty expired. Now, it's out of warranty, and I'll try your repair instructions. Thanks!
Hey, Peter. You just saved me hundreds of dollars by your video. My problem was in the usb connector. It was poorly soldered on and got loose as you plug in and unplug as you use it. I used my iso tip cordless for fine point soldering. Then I had to try all my charger-cords to see whch was compatible. I owe you lunch. Thanks again.
7 weeks since repair. Daughter uses/charges it everyday. Still working :)
Good point. True. With 3 kindles and 4 android phones, we have so many micro usb connectors we checked that without thinking. Those cables and connectors do wear out. You should also make sure that your kindle is not locked up.
@ Anthony - No, I don't work for Amazon. I was thinking of buying the stock, but never got around to it.
How do we put the case on
Just snaps back on. A little scary but you probably already got there.
Thx
I will attempt the repair, my son's kindle won't charge anymore, not the first one. Your video is the only one I found that actually shows and explains how to do the repair!! Thank you so much, I will let you know how it goes.
Yes, it is best not to let them touch. Swiping towards back can reduce this by spreading solder along traces. Only outside traces are for power. Center traces are for datelines. Good luck
Kyle,
This is exactly how the problem starts. The traces are cracked and holding it just the right way bends the traces just enough for it to touch and charge. Soon, this we become more and more troublesome and then you will be one of us. :) Since you are out of warranty, it might be worth taking 10minutes and giving it a go. IF you don't want to, I am sure someone would buy it now that everyone knows how to fix it.
Hey Killa,
So it will charge when you plug it into the wall - that is good. Some computers only provide 5v@500ma over USB2, but the brick for the wall provides 5@1A that is 2x more than some PCs. That is why you might not be charging or charging slowly. Sound like you are up an running, but if not... a Kindle Fire 2, it is most likely still under its one year warranty. I would get it fixed by Amazon directly.
Sure. The connector is very small but it does have two alignment pins that stick through the board. Those holes are called Via's. First step is to heat up the old solder- swipe the legs front to back, not side to side. just to make sure there is enough solder. If not, add a little bit. Next. Fill the Vias with solder - mine had nothing in them (probably why it got stressed). Next heat the filled vias from the otherside and get the connector onto the board...now your pins are lined up and you can
As someone who has soldered and doesn't do it regularly, puling all of this out of the Kindle to try is a bit much. I guess if I really thought it was on it's last legs I would definitely try. I know I'd have the video up and following step by step!!! A lot of great info.
My goal was to help one or two other people out there. I definitely did not expect to have 600,000 view out of this. Yes, a new kindle is $49 and will keep all your programs and books because it is in the cloud.
Yeah!! I fixed it. I watched another vid to learn which connector was what and found that the big golden(ish) one on the side is the touch screen. I made sure the holes in the side lined up with the screw holes before I locked it down. Now it turns on, swipes, and charges! Thanks again for your excellent video.
This is awesome; I fixed my son's Kindle, although it takes some dexterity, and in my case a lot of various magnifying glasses. I just used an old (15 Watt?) soldering iron I got a long time ago from Radio Shack. I carefully cleaned up the metal contacts with some very fine wet-or-dry sandpaper and a tiny screwdriver tip before the soldering part; never used any actual flux, other that what's in the solder. Thanks!
I just want to thank you. I was able to repair my Kindle after watching this video. (My kids thank you too)
This helped, but not because I had to replace the charger. My kindle wouldn't reset, but when I watched your video (perusing the web for a way to fix my dang tablet), I noticed that the battery had a removable connector to the device (the little rainbow-cable). So, I popped my kindle open, barely disconnected that cable for a few seconds, slapped it back in and voila, I now have a way to "hard-reset" my device! Good video, not exactly what you intended but it worked!
I am a certified solderer and an electronic inspector. I just watched your video, and I will be taking my Kindle to work and I am going to give it a try. My usb does not work, except if I finagle it. Wish me luck and I will get back to you with the results. Thanks for the video...
It has been 4 years but did you find this to be the issue with yours?
Interesting. Check the battery connector to make sure that it is seated all the way. If that doesn't work, I would unplug the battery and try powering it from the battery terminals. Make sure to match power specs of battery - not sure if the power adapter will help in this but it might.
honestly thought i was going to have to replace the battery, and all my kindle needed was a button-hold reset. thank you!!
Thanks, Peter Carcione. I tried this about a year ago and didn't get enough of a build up on the traces due to a wider tip. Used a fine tip the second time and fixed my wife's old original Kindle. Granddaughter has one that won't charge either so I will be looking at that when they come the fourth.
Ken Claridge Great! I am glad that you got it to work. The only thing better than feeling like a hero is when your granddaughter thinks your a hero. I cant wait for the new USB 3.1 connector - sure hope that it is better.Happy 4th, almost.
Good clear instructions for removing the PCB.
It's a pity that mine didn't have a loose USB connector to fix and, being a UK version, the PCB didn't show the soldered connections at the back of that connector (not that I have the dexterity to undertake soldering on such a small space).
In the end, disturbing the system didn't fix the problem (I didn't really expect it to), but it was a good exercise in accessing the insides of an old Fire.
Thanks
Thanks to this video I gained the courage to open the case and perform the repair. My USB connector was also broken away from its solder tabs and I performed the repair as described in the video... it worked. I used a 25W iron I had on hand and filed a very fine point on the soldering iron tip. I would recommend a jewelers loop or a magnifier to do this repair. This stuff gets smaller as I get older! Thanks for the video!
Thank you for sharing this video. My Kindle fire stopped taking a charge about 6 months ago and my warranty is up. I thought I would be a good Idea to take it apart and check out what was going on, upon looking for instructions of some sort for opening the device I stumbled on your video and I'm very happy because I think my connector is miss hitting because it works when jiggled. Gonna try this, thank you!
You have successfully addressed a wide spread problem with the kindle fire. As a temp fix. I fiddled e
With the cord until it made contact with the printed circuit board you mentioned. I'll work on tHe fix when I get a sodder device. You have motivated me to fix it myself. Thanks so much
Wow!!!! I was ready to dive in and learn how to replace the battery on my 18 month old Kindle Fire, which quit working yesterday. Your advise on holding down the power button for 10 seconds WORKED!!!! You are a genius and thank you a hundred times over!!!
I have always used a grounded tip on electronics but this is a pretty simple fix. Just reheat the solder traces and get out... so, perhaps it is overkill; it depends on where you live (Las Vegas residents should used grounded everything since static electricity is everywhere and electronics hate that).
My Fire has been getting progressively worse. Propping/jiggling worked for awhile, but nothing seems to help now. I think I'm ready to try your suggested fix. Thanks for the how-to video.
Beware when opening the case of the copper foil piece by the lower left corner shown in the video. Keep your knife very shallow or away from this spot as much as possible. The touch screen operation was lost from slicing part of this foil which is right next to the edge of the case which appears to be hard wired underneath.
Good idea to just keep away from the bottom part of the case. Get you hands in there and just pop the back off.
Really great to know. Thank you.
Thank-you, Peter. I got mine charging again using your instructional video. The only potential problem seems that I started to tear that copper colored ribbon cable when fishing it out during reassembly. Hopefully, not too much damage done.
I had a similar problem that developed with mine. Turns out it would charge, but not boot. Cracked it open after watching your video and found a small problem with one of the connections to the card. Works like new, now. Thank you.
Great news! It is always nice when you can make someone's day, especially someone as important as a sister.
Peter Carcione can I ship you my kindle fire for you to fix it? Please... I accidentally left it outside in a thunderstorm or monsoon storm.
Try doing a reset first. Do this by holding down power button for 10 seconds. Do this twice. If it still does not turn on, it could be a charging problem.
Do you get a charge light when plugging in?
If you wiggle the connector a little?
Try another adapter, if so. If you still need to wiggle the adapter, you might have a loose connector like the rest of us. 14,000 and growing so not so rare.
Sincere thanks for this post. I was able to fix my daughter's Kindle all by myself. Think she was impressed that Mom knew how to solder. Your instructions were so clear and made the process easy and unintimidating. Thanks again.
Great to hear. My kids thought I was kind of a genius too. Take a look at my other video that shows how to sideload applications from the Google Store, not just the Kindle Store... There are hundreds of thousands more programs on that Google store that will work in the Kindle just fine.
Oh, wow, thank you for this. As soon as the shops are open I'm off to get myself a soldering iron. I'll report back as soon as I'm done -- like you say, it's not under warranty any longer, and it can't hurt to try!
Amazing! Let people know which soldering video you watched. It doesn't let you paste links but you can type the exact search terms.
Charging light is in the power button. It is a 2 color LED, orange= plugged in and charging, green = plugged in and fully charged.
Good job! I have an almost new kindle first generation that my wife bought with the same problem. I have all the tools and more importantly I have the time as I retired recently. thanks for the video.
Update, the USB connector didn't fall on mine off like yours did in the video and the 5 leads were well soldered down. I was the metal tabs on the connector that didn't have solder and didn't want to accept soldering until it was clean up. Then it took solder and the battery charged no problems.
Thanks for the video.
Just thought I'd add what fixed mine. It appeared it was not charging because the screen did not display anything. I took it apart and measured 3.7 Volts on the battery.... which is what the battery said on it. I decided to try and disconnect the battery for a few seconds, then plug it back in. That fixed my issue.... Thanks for the disassembly portion, that helped out!
Great! Glad that you got it to work again.
Hmmm, I think it would be easier to just get a new adapter. Get the USB to Micro USB kind. These can be used in the car, airplane, on travel and are cheap to replace. The micro-USB connector is so small and the alignment so critical, I would just get a new one given the low cost. If this is your only issue, pat yourself on the back and plug-in carefully from now on. as you can see from the growing number of views, the connector is delicate.
Thanks so much, Peter. In my case the 10 seconds reset resolved the problem and now it works normally again. Big thank you, sir
This is great! I got my Kindle a year and a half ago and all of a sudden one day it took hours for it to even charge 15 percent, and then it would die very quickly. So I'm going to try this out and see how it works! Thank you!
@munjaudarti... 15 watt. Hotter irons can cause problems...heat traces too much can lift em... like brady s post. It can be done but that's another thing too worry about. Good luck
My husband works on computers, so I will definitely be showing him this video, and hopefully we can get the kindle fire back working!
You reminded me of the little white retainers I removed from the ribbon cables. Unfortunately, you didn't show this part of the reassembly. I had pulled the retainers off the connector and was unable to reinstall them so I cut a little squares from shrink sleeving and pushed them into the connector to secure the ribbon cables. Might have been simpler and cheaper had the Fire been manufactured that way . Thanks for caring.
These instructions are quite good. But caution, this is not a task for the faint of heart or skill. I have a good amount of electronic soldering experience, and admittedly was not using a tiny needle tip but I did not get it done right the first time and was really fighting to not short out the tiny, close pads. On my unit the little ground pads at the back of the connector had torn away. Possibly while I was trying to get the connector out so be careful in that step. But the five tiny signal connections on the connector were just lifted off the pads which means they were cold solder joints from the factory. Clearly inadequate process control in manufacturing. On my unit the connector also had ground posts that went through the board and these had not been soldered. I recommend doing that as it makes a stronger mechanical connection for future knocking around. Thanks so much for the video. While it was not an easy repair I am once more a hero for my granddaughter.
Hello - wonderful presentation! Can I use a cordless 15W soldering iron? You were particular about the grounded tip, so I wanted to be sure before I purchased one?
Your video is very informative, and you make the process seem so simple.
I however, have never soldered anything in my life, but I do know a few people who have. Hopefully, with the aid of this video, they'll agree to perform electronic surgery for me.
Question though... I may or may not have damaged the charger port itself. If I do these repairs, and it still doesn't work, is it possible to buy a new port?
That's even better. I bet that the some of the connectors are cracked (may be macroscopic, but you may need some help to see it). I bet that if you put the connector in and gently shift left and right, you will see that there are broken connections. Since you are attached, you have good alignment. just heat them up on at at time and drag straight back. This will reactivate the solder and make a new (tin looking) connection. You can add solder to the through-hole pins if they were not solder.d
Batteries can become so "drained" that the loose their polarity.
Since my three kids play with their kindles every day - I don't think your battery is dead already. It appears to be a good one. I bet that it is just your connector. On the connector, the power pins are on the outside, Pins 1 and 5. Data lines are in the middle. Concentrate on the sides with solder iron.
Oh Boy! Just found out my kindle isn't holding a charge now. I am going to attempt this! I hope I can do the soldering portion. Fingers crossed! Thank you for this video!
now simply swipe down the pins properly aligned on the traces. not too much heat, just touch and swipe until it look good and "Tinny" (shiny).
Thanks very much: I was about to purchase a battery but then turned to TH-cam and fortunately found your much appreciated video...but before embarking on disassembly, I put a charger on the kindle and gently wiggled the port...GREEN charge light came on! Thank you.
Thanks Peter for this video! This is what I need to do with my Kindle! I just need to go buy a soldering tool and the wire. I will go to home depot this week-end and let you know how I did! Wish me luck!
I have the same Same problem with the connector. Awesome video and teaching lesson. I will begin tomorrow and see how it goes. Thanks for giving me the knowledge and courage to attempt this. I'll let you know if its successful but now I THINK I can do it! Thanks to you!
My connector locks are not attached to the ribbon cables. They come right off when I disconnect them. These things are microscopic and I'm sure will be a ton of fun trying to get back on. One of my posts on the port is loose, the solder I have is really thick stuff and I'm a little overwhelmed tryin to get this thing to seat and put fresh solder in that microscopic hole on the bottom side. I think I will try to get a different gun and smaller solder and retry. Great video tho...thanks.
Yes, the light goes orange when charging and then green when done.
Great information. I used this video to fix my wife's Kindle Fire. Well, it's charging now still doesn't have enough power to stay on yet. Wish you had showed us how you put those tiny white plastic clips back in though.LOL. I spent a lot so time cursing them.thanks again for the information it was very helpfull.
Peter, thanks so much for this! It is exactly what's happening with my Kindle Fire...of course out of warranty. Amazon offered me discounts on a new one but, shouldn't something that costs $200 last longer than this? I am going to have my son try your fix on my Kindle and will let you know if it worked! As you say, nothing to lose...
Oh I hope I can do the guides, your head was blocking the view a piece but the balloon notes were helpful when the view was obscured. Thank you BTW for posting this.
It does sound like you are having the same issue as the rest of us. Many people, myself included, have been successful in doing this procedure but it is not for the weak of heart. Watch the video and see if it looks doable to you. If not, I would take it to a local electron repair shop, show them the video and see if they can do it for you. We would all be interested to know what the quote is cost wise.
They simply stop charging after a few months. Amazon has replaced it twice. I have spoken to numerous people with the same problem. My sister and several friends have had iPads for yrs with zero problems. Even my sister's Kindle Dire stopped charging and had to have it replaced. Spending more money on an iPad vs this frustration is a win!
Good comment. Had no idea that the problem was this widespread. Will try harder in the future. :)
My first Kindle Fire was replaced by Amazon because of this problem. Six months later, my replacement Kindle Fire developed the same problem. Amazon has refused to make their defective product good. So, since it doesnt work anyway, I have nothing to lose. You can bet I'm going to try this.
Your video was very helpful in identifying the problem. However I an the type that takes something apart and never am able to reassemble. Also could never work with a soldering tool. Wish that I could, with your instruction would be able to repair my Kindle. May be cheaper to replace. Thanks, very informative.
Let us know if there is any success with this. It appears that while the connector is indeed faulty, it did last though the warranty period for most of us and now we are staring down a very expensive non-warranty repair.
You lost me when you got to the soldering part, but what a well-done instructional video! Now I'm thinking I know what's wrong with my husband's original Kindle Reader.
awesome!! THANKS for the video! I took the kindle apart step by step with your vid and of course it was not connected! so now i'm gonna wait for my husband to finish it with the soldering =) will let you know if we get it and fix it!! thank again for the video, if we get it we will have one happy 11 year old!!!
What kind of solder do you suggest? Radio Shack offers a huge variety of flavors, sizes.
Checking back on this. Could you confirm the best type of solder to use for this?
***** Just about anykind will do. Sometimes you can just use what is on the board. A little more will let you fill those mounts on the sides. good Luck.
This is the exact problem I have had with my Kindle. This looks like a doable repair. I do have a question about the usb port. Mine was not connected at all , just like in your video. When I lifted it out there was a small black foam piece. I am not sure how it should be seated. Any suggestions on where it should be? Thanks so much for this video!
thank you so much! i used your video to fix my sister's kindle. it means the world to her!
This is VERY IMPORTANT. Before you do this, hold the power button for at least 20 seconds (30 is better). Holding it for 10 seconds may not illicit a response (on mine it did not). The Kindle Fire can get locked up and only holding the button for at least 20 seconds will reset it. While it is thus locked, it won't charge, turn on, or otherwise exhibit signs of life. Mine was doing this after my son got ahold of it and the 20 second trick worked. Considering I was seriously considering opening it up, that saved me a lot of pain!
10 seconds is overkill, it is a 6 second timer for the reset... but hey, it never hurts to hold it a few more seconds. one missisippi, two missisippi, .... :)
Sorry, I couldn't possibly take responsibly for receiving, repairing and sending back hundreds of devices. Look at how many people have had this issue!!. If someone knows of a place to get these units reared, please post here.
Very helpful. Have to get a small tip soldering gun tomorrow. May have shakey hands but will get it done. Very good video. Thank you.
Fixed my USB a while back. Still had issues. Found that if the kindle sat for a week or two, it would start working. Then after touching or pinching a certain area of the kindle, it would just go dead immediately. No display; no charge light. After sitting another week or two, it would work again. This happened continually. I pulled it apart and was looking for cold solder joints. Found nothing. Then I noticed the thermal gap pad at the 4:24 mark of this video. On the thermal gap pad, I could see impressions from the circuit board touching it. Looking closer, I found short and very fine (finer than cat hair) strands of copper wire laying and stuck on that thermal pad. Those were the problem. When the circuit board was pressed against the gap pad, those wires shorted the board out. As the kindle rested, the pad slowly pulled away from the board and pulled the wires away from the board also. The kindle works perfect now. I've tried to simulate the problem that was constant, but it keeps working now.
Typical - always harder to reassemble than take apart! Thought I had it made. I had everything reassembled till I came to the ribbon connection closest to the port. I worked for 30 minutes trying to reattach. Wouldn't go because the ribbon was too fat for the clip ( knew I must be doing something wrong because I took it off). Kept going until the clip broke off the board. Is there anyway to repair this. I'm very frustrated that I was so close yet so far. Did enjoy your video and if I could offer a suggestion I would ask you to spend a little more time on reassembly - thanks.
+Tim Bolchoz Thanks. At the time I made the video, my only goal was to help someone. I had no idea that it would reach hundreds of thousands of people. That was a bit of an eye opener. The good news is the new Kindle Fire Tablets are only $49 now. An amazing deal. Surprised the ribbon connector was giving you trouble. There is a pull tab, which made the ribbon thicker and had to be carefully tucked inside the case. The gold teeth part should have been thin enough to fit in the open ribbon receptical; it was open, wasn't it. Things are really tiny, I know.
Yeah, I bought a new one before I tried to fix my first one. The new one has Bluetooth and a camera but loaded with a lot mote junk. I wanted to fix the old one on which my granson had stored many games. I haven't given up yet...but I'm getting closer. Thanks again and now I'll watch your soldering video.
Hello Peter, the video doesn't show very well the solder part. Can you please describe quickly how do that? Id like to try myself soon.
Thanks for the helpful instructions
If you have a new Kindle, you are within your warranty period. I would get it fixed under warranty. This was just for those of us with the older Kindle that is out of warranty.
I wish all TH-cam vids were this good. Well done!
Lol. Thanks. This was actually my very first one but has since kicked off a series of over 500 newer videos that I feel are better produced.
It sounds like the same issue. I was able to limp by for several weeks by propping up the kindle while charging, but eventually I had a open it up to fix it.
Man...the 10 second reset worked like a charm. Thanks!
Great! Glad that it worked for you, much better than pulling out the soldering iron :0!
Since it has been awhile, have you had the problem crop up again? As it seems to be a design flaw due to the stress of the case and also of plugging/unplugging. Would some Loctite 2-part epoxy across the USB and PCB help? Maybe perhaps dremeling the opening on the case ? It did seem to be a problem when putting the board back ion. Thanks.
I have 3 kids and fixed all of their units. 2 have needed a 2nd repair, albeit months later. Like the epoxy idea and may have to give it a go next time I am in there.
Thanks. If I can get it soldered and epoxy it I'll let you know. It's a difficult little port to solder on. especially with shaky hands.
so i took apart my kindle fire because it won't charge and the usb port is fine on it but their is only the big plug coming from the battery that you have to grip the sides and pull out. the connection right next to the big one, it doesn't go to anything. is that normal? their is nothing plugged into it but it doesnt look like anything is supposed to go to it. i hope i didn't confuse you. any help would be awesome on what's wrong with my kindle. thanks!
Do you recommend a certain gauge of solder? I'm thinking about doing this exact procedure and am hunting down all the supplies
What size tip are you using?
And, what do you recommend to do if some of the connector pins have broken off and are still soldered to the PCB?
...And, what to do if you accidentally bridge the pins while soldering?
Thanks.