A friend of mine was a concrete finisher, he always said there were 2 types of concrete, cracked and going to crack, Lol. Of course he helped me pour my shop floor 22 yrs. ago now and it never cracked. He passed away about 10 years ago, I really miss that guy.
🤙appreciate the feedback, awesome story about the 2 concrete lol sorry about your friend 🤙 and I hear the same it's all going to crack,, amazing yours lasted so long with our cracking 🔥
I poured a 10’ x 15’ slab 25 years ago. It’s the only concrete I have that hasn’t cracked. It’s the only concrete that I personally poured. 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
@@DiyTheGrappler I didn’t think so. The slab has footings and I did a unipour, I poured the footings and the slab at the same time. When I purchased the concrete I was offered good, better, best. I picked best, I kinda remember it being 5, 6, or 7 bag. I floated it with a bull float (?) and used an edger all around and then brooomed it, but didn’t work it more than that. I don’t remember if it had rebar or not, I kind of think it did, but may be only in the footings. That was my first and only time pouring concrete.
I''m glad I found this. I did my first dry pour but I had an inside corner against my house that I couldn't screed and I could not solve the issue before it rained so I just left it. It's about 2/3 full of hard cement and I considered using the repair mortar but I was skeptical. Now I feel better proceeding and I'll put a temporary board against the house and remove it after screeding then just fill in the space left by the board by freehand and the mist and shower. Thank you
Brother you just saved the day! I’ve been worried about my recent dry pour cause the surface was just really bad (rocky) with some pits as well. I’m going to get some mortar mix later today. Oss!!
So glad you mentioned that the color will be tan. I truly started to worry about my dry pour because it was tan(as if it’s just been misted) but never started to turn the lighter whitish color. It hasn’t been even 21hrs since my 1st misting so maybe I was getting panicked all for nothing.
Thanks man. Now I'm wondering if we could do the dry-pour process, but top it with mortar mix right from the start and get a better finish, like you have here. Appreciate your sharing the experiment with us
Forsure you can 🤙🤙🤙I would go with a inch to half inch on top🤙 check out my last video about the post curing methods to gain strength for your dry pour 🤙
@@DiyTheGrappler just found this. th-cam.com/video/IxOzZgAxkiw/w-d-xo.html He topped it with mortar while it was dry. Looks good. I'll definitely go through your other vids. Also subbed. Thank you again.
Latest thought on dry pour: what about wet/dry? Wet does have the best finish so… Dry pour up a slab about 1/2” short of form. Then mix up a Home Depot bucket or 2 of regular mixed concrete. Mist up the dry pour then dump the wet on top right away. Finish the wet pour normally w trowel, edge, cut in expansion joints. Go back to wetting hourly to get the whole thing to set up. Could give a great finish with the ease of dry pour (only extra thing you’d need are a couple of 5 gallon buckets…
Tip - those external sound clips are really loud and annoying. Great video, but maybe tone those down in the editing in the future. Obviously on the future videos you can previous the camera angles before you start the project. Did you seal this afterwards? I run a side business doing exterior cleaning, and if you seal this, it will keep it from becoming stained with organic growth (bacteria, algae, etc.) for much longer because it will seal the pores and block out these contaminants.
@@DiyTheGrappler I've not done this myself, but the self-made multi-millionaire that trained me (and literally thousands of other professional cleaners) in roof and exterior cleaning said (and I've read on many roof & exterior cleaning forums) that the Lock N Seal brand is a good combination of ease of use and quality seal. If you get these microbes inside the pores of the cement, you can't pressure wash them away. Pressure washing just mows down the top layer, but cannot reach inside the pores, short of actually using pressure to erode the surface. You can kill these contaminants with a 1-2% bleach mixture, but it's much less work to just seal it. I'm probably going to do a slab about 2 or 3 inches thick, and maybe 3 x 5 feet at the base of my deck. The dogs tear it up landing there and turning 90 degrees to the left each time they go out. So, I put down some spare pavers, but then I just need to go back and pull weeds. Liquid bleach is just salt water with an extra oxygen molecule, so when the chemical reaction is done it just reverts back to salt water. If you don't care about killing plants around the cement from salt, liquid bleach is the easiest way. If you want to avoid any salt damage, powdered bleach is calcium hypochlorite, which is calcium chloride after the chemical reaction is done, which is a nutrient plants crave. I just thought I'd toss that out there as well since I'm also a lawn care nerd. Oh, to mix powdered bleach, 1 ounce of powdered bleach per gallon of water is approximately 1% bleach strength. 2% strength would be plenty for cleaning most things, but for badly stained cement, sidewalks, etc., 3-4% is good. If you use powdered bleach, just be aware that it can leave calcium stains if you get overspray on something and do not rinse it off before it dries.
Listen, if it's strong enough to hold my patio furniture with 10 people and a grill, we're good. I don't need it to hold a tank. I think wet pour is better for professional people who specialize in doing concrete but pouring it wet is outside of my reach. I'm a widow and I'm 5'2" and 130lbs. There's no chance of me every being able to wet pour by myself and I can't afford thousands of dollars to pay somebody. Dry pour makes it accessible to people who otherwise would have to walk on dirt any the clay in my backyard is so compacted nothing but weeds can grow. Perfect for a concrete slab on top of insulation boards. That means I don't have to be muddy and I'll take it.
th-cam.com/video/bSJrZcEUgig/w-d-xo.html I agree 🤙 check this video out to help with curing (strengthing process) 🤙 good luck with your slabs in the future!🤙
It’s your sidewalk so you can do what you want but if you read the specs for a mortar mix, that was way too thick. Mortars are only meant to be used as a “skim” topping. Lots of hairline cracking will probably result. If I had a rough concrete surface I wanted a little more finished looking, there’s nothing wrong with skimming a mortar mix over it but I wouldn’t do it ‘dry-pour’ style. Just mix up a small batch and skim it with a trowel. After it sets up a bit, give it a light broom finish. But that’s just me.
I'm not a concrete guy myself, but I've seen videos where people are encouraged to pour a thin layer of mortar mix on top of their dry-pour concrete in order to get a smooth finish. But if that mortar mix sets quicker than the concrete below then it might prevent water from soaking into the lower parts of the concrete. Seems to me that mortar may be best for what you're doing here ... a repair job. But be careful about layering it on top of your dry-pour concrete. Just screed the heck out of your dry-pour to get the rocks down and get a smooth finish.
Thank you for the input 🤙 I seen the same,,it does set faster,,so Im able to soak faster 🤙the slab behind this one is about month old did the same process and so far it's doing great🤙I'm actually going to start some dry vs wet vs different method tests soon 🤙to get a better idea of what is happening during these different strategies 🤙
Just used a ⛏️ to take off the top 🤙 and when I took off the form I tried something new by pulling it off with out unscrewing the form ,, a small piece in the corner chipped off so I thought great opportunity to make a resurfacing video🤙
I'm gonna subscribe. Can you turn the volume of your sound effects down a bit? Sometimes I can't hear you as well over them. I won't tell you to take them out bc it's your video but lol. I really enjoy these! I think I may try this.
4 inch 🤙 normally this is the average for a wet pour driveway 🤙I'm actually going to be making a driveway out of dry pour 🤙still doing some research but might go 5-6 inches with fiber and rebar as reinforcements🤙
@@DiyTheGrappler I can’t wait to see what you come up with. I was told up here in Northern ND to put foam board and then some sort of rebar due to the frost and freezing temps what do you think?
@@gwenienelson2535 thanks 👍 I agree with that foam/expansion boards plus fiber,,rebar or rebar mesh wire🤙to make strong as possible 🤙 especially because you are in a freeze/thaw area🤙I plan to do the driveway in 5x5 slabs with Rocks in-between 🤙so in any case the repair would be Minor ,,just having to replace or repair one slab 🤙 good luck!
Great video. Do they make concrete mix with much smaller rock or maybe sand so it doesn't look so rough after it sets? Could you trowel a smooth surface before it sets up?
🤙 concrete is composed of Cement Sand Aggregate (little rocks) Reason why putting repair mortar or mortar mix (cement and sand) 6000psi at the top helps with smooth finish 🤙
Looks good, this is kinda what id like to do on the back door area. 3 to 5 sections depending on how it turns out. So theres a difference between repair mortar and regular mortar but they both seem to turn out well. Is it common for BJJ school's to teach younger children or not as common ?
Mortar mix and repair mortar mix are pretty much same just different brand and different color🤙 but both have 6000psi🤙 and yes forsure the majority of Brazilian Jiu jitsu teach kids 🤙
@@DiyTheGrappler ok cool. Thank you sir. I’m doing a 14’x12’ now for my outdoor kitchen. I just did a 4x4’ test section and I think I may need to put the mortar mix on top. I subscribed also.
@@MrBdogg317 awesome good luck! Check out my more recent video with the Sand mix topping 🤙 it's another great option,,lower cost,,grey color,,5000psi used for capping and fixing concrete 🤙
What's good Grappler I took of my forms this morning and the edges looked like it was cracking can I fix the edges with the mortar mix with a little water to smooth it on the edge
yo, nobody says 'blood/crip'...and even if they did, you're giving a serious negative, some air-time. You're an example. Do better...but I will say, keep up the good work on this youtube.
@@DiyTheGrappler Great to hear, happy you came around and hope you use those negative experiences (we all have them!) to better someone else's life. You're in my prayers for a good safe future.
Wouldnt dry pour....takes almost no extra time to mix with water and better result.....dont understand trying to do the minimum amount of effort......never works
If you just mixed the concrete and gave it a proper finish instead of dry pour you wouldn’t have to do this. By the way, you need some sort of adhesive between the two layers or they won’t bond. I’ve had good luck with a grout slurry. Water will get in between and it will separate. Please stop with the dry pour nonsense. I could mix that slab with a shovel and finish it in two hours. No misting or watering or future overlays. You’re taking a two hour job, making it a seven hour job and in the end you get an inferior product with an ugly finish. For what? Save yourself a little labor? I guess you get out what you put in, like everything in life.
Of course people's dry pour slabs aren't coming our right, because they aren't MIXING concrete right. Concrete was never meant to be pissed on and expect good results. Everything with this silly method is absolutely backwards and compromises every aspect of sound concrete. The most important step is to mix the concrete and consolidate the mix. What kind of bond can you expect from misting water on the top thin layer and wait till it hardens and then keep doing it. These layers aren't going to bond together worth a sh!te (look up cold joint). I just don't get it. This ridiculous dry pour nonsense is more time consuming than doing it the proper way. Only to end up with a weaker slab and spalling surface with more craters than the moon. Then they need to spend more time and money to resurface, which in most cases won't last either. The only way to get professional results is to mix concrete as it was always intended be used.
I've always used concrete to make animal pools for my exotic livestock but we have a lot more flexibility with these types of products, I was given a bunch of fast set mortar that I'd like to use instead of regular concrete... are they safe for drinking water once cured?
This I can not say my friend,,I definitely don't want to give you and answer that I don't know 🙌you will need to do more research on rapid Set Mortar mix,, good luck on your search 🙌
That's wassup Grappler. I did a dry pour concrete last weekend and it came out a bit rocky on top. I didn't have a helper to help me screed a 8x10. I've been researching on throwing some mortar on top to get rid of the rock look. Have you tried using the method Cajun Country Livin' used with a paint roller to smoothen out the surface even more before adding water. your video helped me out alot. Thanks!
Awesome , appreciate it!🤙 I use the Cajun country method with the roller ,,in combination with teddy zane's method with mortar on top🤙comes out clean!🤙
You can but most mortar are around 2500 psi (pounds per square inch) If you're looking for strength I would go with Repair mortar 6000psi🤙 Or Rapid Set Mortar mix 6500psi🤙 Just made another Dry pour video coming out tomorrow 🤙
Glad to see you are making something work. In my freeze/thaw climate it just wouldnt hold up. The cement will harden with water, the only problem is the cement doesn't stick as well to the aggregate when the agg isnt wet so it can break a lot easier. I had a bag of concrete that sat out in the weather over the winter. Got wet. Got hard. But i smacked with a hammer to break it up it was hard all the way through, but not strong- it just shattered and crumbled. Compared to a sidewalk i had to bust out, the traditional wet pour was very difficult to bust up. If this type of concrete works in your area, more power to you and good job for being creative
Really enjoy your videos, it was so helpful. I did a dry pour with Quickcrete, screeded the hell out of it, then paint roller! It was a very smooth top. I wanted to try something new that I had not seen much out there on. I did a broom finish before watering. It looked great before I watered. After the 2nd misting, I could start to see the aggregate. It doesnt look horrible, but when I walk on it, it is very sandy and coarse. Do you have any suggestions on how I could fix this now? I considered adding a thin layer of hiqh quality mortar on top and then watering. Do you think that would hold up? Thank you again, love your videos.
Appreciate it 🤙 yeah I believe you can still fix it🤙I would suggest chippin up or grinding the top layer, so the mortar mix has something to hold on to, then cleaning 🤙 after clean use rapid Set Mortar mix 6000psi or repair mortar 6000 psi also another option sand mix 5000 psi,, pour the mix on top ,,,then use paint roller for finish 🤙 in any case I would make a small form to put around your existing slab then top with what ever mix you choose and mist wait an hour mist again, wait another hour mist,, mist until top layer is hard then soak and shower 🤙 you could always use a wet resurfacing product, you would need to trowel for finish I resurfaced to slabs with dry pour 1 with rapid set Mortar mix and the other with sakrete sand mix,,both came out good 👍 good luck 🤙
A friend of mine was a concrete finisher, he always said there were 2 types of concrete, cracked and going to crack, Lol. Of course he helped me pour my shop floor 22 yrs. ago now and it never cracked. He passed away about 10 years ago, I really miss that guy.
🤙appreciate the feedback, awesome story about the 2 concrete lol sorry about your friend 🤙 and I hear the same it's all going to crack,, amazing yours lasted so long with our cracking 🔥
I poured a 10’ x 15’ slab 25 years ago. It’s the only concrete I have that hasn’t cracked. It’s the only concrete that I personally poured. 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
@@techguy3507 🤙🤙🤙 awesome did you do anything special to it for strength or longevity?
@@DiyTheGrappler I didn’t think so. The slab has footings and I did a unipour, I poured the footings and the slab at the same time. When I purchased the concrete I was offered good, better, best. I picked best, I kinda remember it being 5, 6, or 7 bag. I floated it with a bull float (?) and used an edger all around and then brooomed it, but didn’t work it more than that. I don’t remember if it had rebar or not, I kind of think it did, but may be only in the footings. That was my first and only time pouring concrete.
@@techguy3507 thats awesome thanks for sharing 🤙
You did an excellent job. The mortar allows for such a nice finish and it very durable. Plus you don't have to screed too much. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the feedback!
I''m glad I found this. I did my first dry pour but I had an inside corner against my house that I couldn't screed and I could not solve the issue before it rained so I just left it. It's about 2/3 full of hard cement and I considered using the repair mortar but I was skeptical. Now I feel better proceeding and I'll put a temporary board against the house and remove it after screeding then just fill in the space left by the board by freehand and the mist and shower. Thank you
No prob!!
Thanks for the experimentation.
Brother you just saved the day! I’ve been worried about my recent dry pour cause the surface was just really bad (rocky) with some pits as well. I’m going to get some mortar mix later today. Oss!!
🔥🔥🔥 glad to hear that this information can help🙌💯💯💯💯💯
Did you ever resurface with the mortar? How did it turn out?
@@BudgetBassHead I did. It looked good until it didn’t. It cracked pretty fast. I’ve been meaning to give it another layer but mixed already.
So glad you mentioned that the color will be tan.
I truly started to worry about my dry pour because it was tan(as if it’s just been misted) but never started to turn the lighter whitish color.
It hasn’t been even 21hrs since my 1st misting so maybe I was getting panicked all for nothing.
Lol awesome 🤙 did you use rapid Set Mortar mix?
Thanks man.
Now I'm wondering if we could do the dry-pour process, but top it with mortar mix right from the start and get a better finish, like you have here. Appreciate your sharing the experiment with us
Forsure you can 🤙🤙🤙I would go with a inch to half inch on top🤙 check out my last video about the post curing methods to gain strength for your dry pour 🤙
@@DiyTheGrappler just found this. th-cam.com/video/IxOzZgAxkiw/w-d-xo.html
He topped it with mortar while it was dry.
Looks good.
I'll definitely go through your other vids.
Also subbed.
Thank you again.
@@Zero_Zero_Zero_Zero awesome appreciate it 🙌 🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
That's what I was gonna ask. Y'all saved me some time. Much appreciated!
@@franny5295 💯💯💯🤙
You have done a great job with the slab and finishing. I will try to use motor mix in my next concrete project.
🤙🤙🤙
Oh man thank u so much I needed to fix mine🎉🎉🙏🙏
Latest thought on dry pour: what about wet/dry?
Wet does have the best finish so…
Dry pour up a slab about 1/2” short of form. Then mix up a Home Depot bucket or 2 of regular mixed concrete.
Mist up the dry pour then dump the wet on top right away.
Finish the wet pour normally w trowel, edge, cut in expansion joints.
Go back to wetting hourly to get the whole thing to set up.
Could give a great finish with the ease of dry pour (only extra thing you’d need are a couple of 5 gallon buckets…
Good information. Other channels didn't cover some of these details
🤙🤙🤙 thanks for the feedback!
Tip - those external sound clips are really loud and annoying. Great video, but maybe tone those down in the editing in the future. Obviously on the future videos you can previous the camera angles before you start the project. Did you seal this afterwards? I run a side business doing exterior cleaning, and if you seal this, it will keep it from becoming stained with organic growth (bacteria, algae, etc.) for much longer because it will seal the pores and block out these contaminants.
Appreciate it🤙what kind of deal do you recommend 🤙
@@DiyTheGrappler I've not done this myself, but the self-made multi-millionaire that trained me (and literally thousands of other professional cleaners) in roof and exterior cleaning said (and I've read on many roof & exterior cleaning forums) that the Lock N Seal brand is a good combination of ease of use and quality seal. If you get these microbes inside the pores of the cement, you can't pressure wash them away. Pressure washing just mows down the top layer, but cannot reach inside the pores, short of actually using pressure to erode the surface. You can kill these contaminants with a 1-2% bleach mixture, but it's much less work to just seal it. I'm probably going to do a slab about 2 or 3 inches thick, and maybe 3 x 5 feet at the base of my deck. The dogs tear it up landing there and turning 90 degrees to the left each time they go out. So, I put down some spare pavers, but then I just need to go back and pull weeds. Liquid bleach is just salt water with an extra oxygen molecule, so when the chemical reaction is done it just reverts back to salt water. If you don't care about killing plants around the cement from salt, liquid bleach is the easiest way. If you want to avoid any salt damage, powdered bleach is calcium hypochlorite, which is calcium chloride after the chemical reaction is done, which is a nutrient plants crave. I just thought I'd toss that out there as well since I'm also a lawn care nerd. Oh, to mix powdered bleach, 1 ounce of powdered bleach per gallon of water is approximately 1% bleach strength. 2% strength would be plenty for cleaning most things, but for badly stained cement, sidewalks, etc., 3-4% is good. If you use powdered bleach, just be aware that it can leave calcium stains if you get overspray on something and do not rinse it off before it dries.
@@Troy-Echo appreciate that! Awesome information!
That's his niche it seems. that is what makes him different than the cliche videos. i would keep the sound effects
@@cosmicpowwow 🤙🤙🤙
You can also use an orbital sander to vibrate the boards to get it packed tighter
🤙🤙🤙
Teddy Zane does everthing 😊you guys are the best
🔥🔥🔥 Teddy Zane is the man!!
And so are you thank you so much for your videos you're making my life so much easier
@@digitalmixer appreciate the feedback!!
Good job
Looks great! I’m going to use it on top of pavers
Awesome good luck!🤙🤙🤙
Badaa Bing Badaa Boom.. Nice job. 👍
Appreciate it!
Nice job brother! 👍
Thank you 🤜🤛✊✊✊✊✊✊
Listen, if it's strong enough to hold my patio furniture with 10 people and a grill, we're good. I don't need it to hold a tank. I think wet pour is better for professional people who specialize in doing concrete but pouring it wet is outside of my reach. I'm a widow and I'm 5'2" and 130lbs. There's no chance of me every being able to wet pour by myself and I can't afford thousands of dollars to pay somebody. Dry pour makes it accessible to people who otherwise would have to walk on dirt any the clay in my backyard is so compacted nothing but weeds can grow. Perfect for a concrete slab on top of insulation boards. That means I don't have to be muddy and I'll take it.
th-cam.com/video/bSJrZcEUgig/w-d-xo.html
I agree 🤙 check this video out to help with curing (strengthing process) 🤙 good luck with your slabs in the future!🤙
Looks pretty good !
great video. It has helped me alot, cheers
Appreciate the feedback 🤙
It’s your sidewalk so you can do what you want but if you read the specs for a mortar mix, that was way too thick. Mortars are only meant to be used as a “skim” topping. Lots of hairline cracking will probably result. If I had a rough concrete surface I wanted a little more finished looking, there’s nothing wrong with skimming a mortar mix over it but I wouldn’t do it ‘dry-pour’ style. Just mix up a small batch and skim it with a trowel. After it sets up a bit, give it a light broom finish. But that’s just me.
I'm not a concrete guy myself, but I've seen videos where people are encouraged to pour a thin layer of mortar mix on top of their dry-pour concrete in order to get a smooth finish. But if that mortar mix sets quicker than the concrete below then it might prevent water from soaking into the lower parts of the concrete. Seems to me that mortar may be best for what you're doing here ... a repair job. But be careful about layering it on top of your dry-pour concrete. Just screed the heck out of your dry-pour to get the rocks down and get a smooth finish.
Thank you for the input 🤙 I seen the same,,it does set faster,,so Im able to soak faster 🤙the slab behind this one is about month old did the same process and so far it's doing great🤙I'm actually going to start some dry vs wet vs different method tests soon 🤙to get a better idea of what is happening during these different strategies 🤙
Wrong. Lol.🤣
@@jameshines6486 Wrong about what? If you know better, please explain. I'm here to learn something. Lol.
Nice! 👍
🤙🤙🤙
How did you destroy the second pad. It looked great in the previous video. What happened to it that would require you to resurface it. Thanks
Just used a ⛏️ to take off the top 🤙 and when I took off the form I tried something new by pulling it off with out unscrewing the form ,, a small piece in the corner chipped off so I thought great opportunity to make a resurfacing video🤙
Can you float that mortar after it's wet, like you can to smooth out the concrete?
To be honest have never tried but I'm sure it's possible if wet enough!
Sounds like a good next video!
Hey brother I am not going to say anything bad about your concrete because of your BJJ. lol Just kidding. It really looks good and thanks for sharing.
Lol appreciate it!
I'm gonna subscribe. Can you turn the volume of your sound effects down a bit? Sometimes I can't hear you as well over them. I won't tell you to take them out bc it's your video but lol. I really enjoy these! I think I may try this.
Awesome 🤙 yeah I can turn it down a bit, no problem 🤙 your the 2nd one to mention that,so it must be an issue,, good luck on your future dry pours!🤙
Great info
🤙🤙🤙👍
Is the form a little bit bigger than the slab that you created the first time
It is👍 so that I could resurface the whole concrete slab 👍
@@DiyTheGrappler thank you
Can I get some of the stuff your on?
Forsure I'm on gratitude and positive vibes 🤙
So is that underlying rough concrete solid? I guess you stood it so that's a yes? lol
Lol it is solid 🤙
So after I get my first slab done I can go over it again and put the motar mix Do I have to leave a small gap around the slab
You don't have to leave a gap , that's your choice 🙌 the mortar mix will bond to the concrete, just make sure it clean 🤙
Do you think I could drive and park on that thickness
4 inch 🤙 normally this is the average for a wet pour driveway 🤙I'm actually going to be making a driveway out of dry pour 🤙still doing some research but might go 5-6 inches with fiber and rebar as reinforcements🤙
@@DiyTheGrappler I can’t wait to see what you come up with. I was told up here in Northern ND to put foam board and then some sort of rebar due to the frost and freezing temps what do you think?
@@gwenienelson2535 thanks 👍 I agree with that foam/expansion boards plus fiber,,rebar or rebar mesh wire🤙to make strong as possible 🤙 especially because you are in a freeze/thaw area🤙I plan to do the driveway in 5x5 slabs with Rocks in-between 🤙so in any case the repair would be Minor ,,just having to replace or repair one slab 🤙 good luck!
Great video. Do they make concrete mix with much smaller rock or maybe sand so it doesn't look so rough after it sets? Could you trowel a smooth surface before it sets up?
🤙 concrete is composed of
Cement
Sand
Aggregate (little rocks)
Reason why putting repair mortar or mortar mix (cement and sand) 6000psi at the top helps with smooth finish 🤙
Bodabing bodaboom! 😂
🤣💯💯🤙🤙🤙🤙
Looks good, this is kinda what id like to do on the back door area. 3 to 5 sections depending on how it turns out. So theres a difference between repair mortar and regular mortar but they both seem to turn out well. Is it common for BJJ school's to teach younger children or not as common ?
Mortar mix and repair mortar mix are pretty much same just different brand and different color🤙 but both have 6000psi🤙 and yes forsure the majority of Brazilian Jiu jitsu teach kids 🤙
maybe next time, leave out the sound effects, lol
🤙🙌🤙
You could've done it with regular $5 concrete mix , save money for vacation or expensive bag for your wife.
👍👍🤙
So was the concrete already dry and set up. Then you put the mortar mix on top?
Correct the dry pour concrete was set and all done then poured mortar mix on top to resurface it 🤙
@@DiyTheGrappler ok cool. Thank you sir. I’m doing a 14’x12’ now for my outdoor kitchen. I just did a 4x4’ test section and I think I may need to put the mortar mix on top. I subscribed also.
@@MrBdogg317 awesome good luck! Check out my more recent video with the Sand mix topping 🤙 it's another great option,,lower cost,,grey color,,5000psi used for capping and fixing concrete 🤙
@@DiyTheGrappler will do thanks again sir
@@MrBdogg317 🤙🤙🤙no prob!
What's good Grappler I took of my forms this morning and the edges looked like it was cracking can I fix the edges with the mortar mix with a little water to smooth it on the edge
You can fix it with repair mortar or mortar mix 🤙 how did the rest of the slab come out🤙
@@DiyTheGrappler The rest came out good. I wish I could send you a picture .
@@DiyTheGrappler Is there any way I could send you a picture or something to show you how I would fix it?
Yeah I actually started and Instagram Diy the grappler 🤙 just up loaded a new video also🤙
@DiyTheGrappler ok ill do that
botta bing botta boom up your
🤙🤙🤙
yo, nobody says 'blood/crip'...and even if they did, you're giving a serious negative, some air-time. You're an example. Do better...but I will say, keep up the good work on this youtube.
I'm actually an ex Gang member that changed my life for the positive 🤙Definitely not spreading negativity🤙 appreciate the feedback 🤙
@@DiyTheGrappler Great to hear, happy you came around and hope you use those negative experiences (we all have them!) to better someone else's life. You're in my prayers for a good safe future.
@@oneway707 appreciate that🤙🙌
Badabing badabum 🤣😂
🤣🤣😂🤣
1:38 oi, 'oo farted, you or yer woman?
Lol Sounds effects my friend
Wouldnt dry pour....takes almost no extra time to mix with water and better result.....dont understand trying to do the minimum amount of effort......never works
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Mortar is not strong as concrete.
Correct Normal mortar is not💯 Rapid Set Mortar mix and Repair mortar is 6000psi 🤙
If you just mixed the concrete and gave it a proper finish instead of dry pour you wouldn’t have to do this. By the way, you need some sort of adhesive between the two layers or they won’t bond. I’ve had good luck with a grout slurry. Water will get in between and it will separate. Please stop with the dry pour nonsense. I could mix that slab with a shovel and finish it in two hours. No misting or watering or future overlays. You’re taking a two hour job, making it a seven hour job and in the end you get an inferior product with an ugly finish. For what? Save yourself a little labor? I guess you get out what you put in, like everything in life.
Appreciate your insight 🤙
Of course people's dry pour slabs aren't coming our right, because they aren't MIXING concrete right. Concrete was never meant to be pissed on and expect good results. Everything with this silly method is absolutely backwards and compromises every aspect of sound concrete. The most important step is to mix the concrete and consolidate the mix. What kind of bond can you expect from misting water on the top thin layer and wait till it hardens and then keep doing it. These layers aren't going to bond together worth a sh!te (look up cold joint).
I just don't get it. This ridiculous dry pour nonsense is more time consuming than doing it the proper way. Only to end up with a weaker slab and spalling surface with more craters than the moon. Then they need to spend more time and money to resurface, which in most cases won't last either. The only way to get professional results is to mix concrete as it was always intended be used.
Appreciate your thoughts 🤙
I don't understand why people are doing this. Buy a mixing tub or use a trash can whatever do it the RIGHT way stop this nonsense!!
Lol 🤙🤙🤙 Thank you for your input🤙😎
@@DiyTheGrappler No disrespect grappler I don't want you mad at me!✌🏽🤣
@@ep5289 🤣😂I don't get mad at TH-cam, Im open to all insight and welcome everyones opinion 🤙
Omg did you fart at 1:38 lmao or was that a sound effect!??? Dont lie 🤣
Sounds effects 😂 I slide that fart in on majority of my videos 😂
@@DiyTheGrappler lmao 🤣 I had to do a double take lmao !!! That's hilarious though . So random
I've always used concrete to make animal pools for my exotic livestock but we have a lot more flexibility with these types of products, I was given a bunch of fast set mortar that I'd like to use instead of regular concrete... are they safe for drinking water once cured?
This I can not say my friend,,I definitely don't want to give you and answer that I don't know 🙌you will need to do more research on rapid Set Mortar mix,, good luck on your search 🙌
@@DiyTheGrappler if it's just Portland cement with a polymer it should be fine
@@guerrilla1044 🤙🤙🤙
D I why? Let's do something wrong and add more cost and steps. 😂
Lolololol yes let's do that! Only way to learn is to fail🤙
You aren't "paving the way" here.
You're just following a clout collective.
You will never know the headache you caused for your voting peers. 🤣 🤣 🤣
That's wassup Grappler. I did a dry pour concrete last weekend and it came out a bit rocky on top. I didn't have a helper to help me screed a 8x10. I've been researching on throwing some mortar on top to get rid of the rock look. Have you tried using the method Cajun Country Livin' used with a paint roller to smoothen out the surface even more before adding water. your video helped me out alot. Thanks!
Awesome , appreciate it!🤙 I use the Cajun country method with the roller ,,in combination with teddy zane's method with mortar on top🤙comes out clean!🤙
You need to work on your audios. Too much High Frequency. Hard to listen to. Takes away from the message.
Appreciate the feedback 🤙
Can I use any motar mix
You can but most mortar are around 2500 psi (pounds per square inch)
If you're looking for strength I would go with
Repair mortar 6000psi🤙
Or
Rapid Set Mortar mix
6500psi🤙
Just made another Dry pour video coming out tomorrow 🤙
@@DiyTheGrappler thank you very much
@@digitalmixer no prob 🤙 good luck with your future projects 🤙
Glad to see you are making something work. In my freeze/thaw climate it just wouldnt hold up. The cement will harden with water, the only problem is the cement doesn't stick as well to the aggregate when the agg isnt wet so it can break a lot easier. I had a bag of concrete that sat out in the weather over the winter. Got wet. Got hard. But i smacked with a hammer to break it up it was hard all the way through, but not strong- it just shattered and crumbled. Compared to a sidewalk i had to bust out, the traditional wet pour was very difficult to bust up. If this type of concrete works in your area, more power to you and good job for being creative
Thanks for sharing your experience with dry and wet pour 🤙
Really enjoy your videos, it was so helpful. I did a dry pour with Quickcrete, screeded the hell out of it, then paint roller! It was a very smooth top. I wanted to try something new that I had not seen much out there on. I did a broom finish before watering. It looked great before I watered. After the 2nd misting, I could start to see the aggregate. It doesnt look horrible, but when I walk on it, it is very sandy and coarse. Do you have any suggestions on how I could fix this now? I considered adding a thin layer of hiqh quality mortar on top and then watering. Do you think that would hold up? Thank you again, love your videos.
Appreciate it 🤙 yeah I believe you can still fix it🤙I would suggest chippin up or grinding the top layer, so the mortar mix has something to hold on to, then cleaning 🤙 after clean use rapid Set Mortar mix 6000psi or repair mortar 6000 psi also another option sand mix 5000 psi,, pour the mix on top ,,,then use paint roller for finish 🤙 in any case I would make a small form to put around your existing slab then top with what ever mix you choose and mist wait an hour mist again, wait another hour mist,, mist until top layer is hard then soak and shower 🤙 you could always use a wet resurfacing product, you would need to trowel for finish I resurfaced to slabs with dry pour 1 with rapid set Mortar mix and the other with sakrete sand mix,,both came out good 👍 good luck 🤙
@DiyTheGrappler thank you so much for taking the time to respond. I will let you know how it turns out
@@joshgallagan3657 🤙🤙🤙👍
This is very helpful. I did a bad pour of concrete.
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Awesome thanks for sharing🥰
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Good vid
Thank you 🙏
Looks good to me
Thank you 🤙
Rrally nice!!!
Thank you 👍