Chainsaw Engine Damage - 3 Common Causes 'Explained' - Chainsaw wont Start - BOG DOWN
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2019
- * VISUALLY EXPLAINED
If you are having any difficulties starting or running your chainsaw, then this free printable Fix-it checklist download on my website will help you.
I'm a big fan of Stihl two stroke oil. I have used it for many years and it has always provided my two stroke engines with super quality lubrication and protection from engine wear, all whilst at the same time allowing great engine running. I have always found this brand to be of fantastic quality at a reasonable price, and have been using this type of oil for many years. Find it here: amzn.to/3bGKqTZ
In this video, the focus is on explaining three common causes of chainsaw engine damage, particularly addressing issues related to starting problems and engine bog-down. Chainsaws are essential tools for various cutting and trimming tasks, but like all mechanical equipment, they can experience issues over time. Understanding these common problems and their causes is crucial for chainsaw owners to troubleshoot and prevent further damage.
Starting Problems: The video highlights that one of the most frustrating issues chainsaw owners face is difficulty starting the engine. It explains that starting problems can be attributed to a range of factors, such as a clogged air filter, a fouled spark plug, or issues with the fuel system. By identifying these potential culprits, the video equips viewers with the knowledge to address starting problems efficiently. Additionally, it emphasizes the importance of regular maintenance, including air filter cleaning and spark plug replacement, to keep the chainsaw in good working condition.
Bog Down: Another common problem addressed in the video is engine bog-down. Chainsaws that bog down can lead to inefficient cutting and stalling, causing frustration and delays in work. The video delves into the reasons behind this issue, such as incorrect carburetor adjustments, fuel mixture problems, or air intake blockages. It explains that understanding the root cause of bog-down is essential for resolving it effectively. The video demonstrates how to check and adjust the carburetor and fuel mixture to prevent this problem, ensuring that the chainsaw runs smoothly and efficiently during operation.
In summary, this video serves as an informative resource for chainsaw owners, helping them identify and address common engine-related issues like starting problems and bog-down. By offering explanations and solutions in a clear and visual manner, the video empowers viewers to troubleshoot and maintain their chainsaws effectively, ultimately saving them time, money, and frustration.
In this video I explain 3 common causes of chainsaw engine damage those with little or no experience (the complete novice).
Some of the symptoms for this type of issue can be:
-the engine will not start,
-engine will start but not run correctly (loss of power, over revving, under revving, uneven running, carburettor will not adjust correctly, and many more)
-engine will BOG down
-engine will not even turn over (crank)
I hope you will learn a few things about how a chainsaw works and save money on large repair bills.
I will include the links mentioned in the video very shortly
Many thanks indeed
Craig Kirkman (Owner and Creator of the 'The Repair Specialist' Channel)
#ChainsawEngineDamage #ChainsawStartingProblems #EngineBogDown #ChainsawMaintenance #TroubleshootingChainsaws #ChainsawRepair #EngineProblemsExplained #ChainsawTips #ChainsawWontStart #ChainsawMaintenanceGuide #EngineTroubleshooting #ChainsawCare #ChainsawProblemsSolved #ChainsawEngineRepair #PreventingChainsawDamage #ChainsawUseTips #ChainsawPerformance #ChainsawFix #EngineIssues #ChainsawProblems #ChainsawProTips - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Very long explanation - perfect! Worth every minute of it.
Thanks
Wow now I see why there is small engine specialist you almost need a PHD to operate this stuff thanks for making this video 👍🏽.
You are great man.i am from Azad kashmir Pakistan. I am pour boy .your video help me .thanks mans.
Love your videos: crystal clear and comprehensive with very helpful illustrations. And I would add there's a generous spoonful of personal grace mixed in. They've enabled me, a rank beginner, to take on the restoration of a McChulloch Mini Mac chainsaw and have it run after all. Bravo! Thank you.
You always show us GREAT videos,thanks a lot!
Great video. Thank you very much
Thank you so much.
very handy video, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Hello Professor sometime ago I was asking you that I was having trouble with one of my Stihl 010 that you very kindly
explained where to look for problems as after many attempted once awhile it started no hope to see it running a few
days ago the weather was not the best and I remembered that somewhere I had another Stihl 010 ...Took me a bit of time
but I find it ...iI removed the carburettor ---Walbro----- and put on the one that would not start ---it had a ZAMA carb.-----
to my surprise it started and H & L one turn out ----- of course it was the Walbro---- Sems it was a carburettor problem
that I wish to find it out ....The question for you is can any carburettor who fits as the original one can be replaced on
these chainsaw as well anyone ?
My 1965 Johnson outboard will not start or run with the cover on the engine runs fine without it what would cause that
Thank you so much
Thank you so much for the nice feedback. I really appreciate it. Craig
This was an excellent video. Really clear explanations and interesting presentation. Thanks
Pro tip: you can watch movies on Flixzone. Me and my gf have been using them for watching lots of of movies lately.
@Finn Matteo yea, I have been using flixzone for since december myself :)
@Finn Matteo Yup, I have been watching on flixzone for years myself =)
@Finn Matteo Definitely, been watching on Flixzone for since december myself =)
@Finn Matteo yup, have been using Flixzone for since december myself :)
I recently had a soft seizure of a chainsaw. Incomplete sealing of fuel line to carb seems to have been the cause. Low compression (30 psi) after seizure release was evident. I will be rebuilding the engine but I am curious about the upper limits of rpm and temp at the spark plug and exhaust as an indicator of safe operating conditions. By the way, the removed spark plug had no evidence of oil or carbon on it....tan and clean like a 4 stroke plug. Live and learn as they say.
My chain saw is very very problem hit and stop engine please answer to me
How many mm oil doses it take to make 40 to one and 45 to one
My local Stihl dealer strongly recommends that I use synthetic 2 stroke oil for engine longevity, especially in newer production models. What could be the advantages of the synthetic oil for him to so strongly advise its use? Thank you.
Maybe it doesn't degrade
It would be awsome if you had a link or place where we can download the disgrams you have made fore your videos.... you do great work keep em coming 👍
thats what I do with my mix ,my weed eater smokes a little sometimes
Your series is epic it's a shame that an advanced porting vid can get more views (IE people watching something advanced w/o fully grasping every.last.thing your channel's so brilliantly produced)
Re #1, fuel//oil and sufficient lube: Have you ever thought/heard about performance increases/reductions based on what's poured in that reservoir? I've learned about how it's not just that 10-15% ethanol in regular petrol that makes it inferior but that two other categories in gas-station-fuel that're *even worse*, and in equal or higher %'s than ethanol: aromatics(benzene) and, primary culprit for your gunk build-up (NOT ethanol), at least according to @Echo dealer sheets showing common fails/damages to the jug&slug, *polyolefins*!
Sooo...all you really want from that pump is the true alkylated portion (as low as like 50% at a pump), but that's not happening even w/ boat/recreational fuel, you go to an airstrip for av1000 flying fuel, get canned Motomix/Truefuel products etc. Oil% -- my gut-instinct was the same as yours and in seeing it reinforced I'm going to start going a touch further....I usually get TruFuel and my local store just has the 50:1 so my fuel-collection already has a sheet w/ the #'s, a syringe+synthetic 2-stroke(poulan pro), so I can make 50's to 40:1's or whatever and my theory is that since it's into *pure alkylate* fuel, I could run 40:1 and be FAR cleaner than someone using gas-station (even eth-free) at 50:1!
Am wondering what you think of this though: My smaller climb saw, a "scheppach", is a clone/rebrand that comes in at least 3 badgings/companies, they're clearly the same saw w/ different badging BUT some iterations ask for ***25:1***!!! Mine asks for 40:1, I give it high-30's:1 but upon seeing this am gonna bump it to 35:1 maybe even 30:1, would love your thoughts on how the same powerhead could call for such variances *officially*! I've seen it in real life, a client of mine - for at least 4 yrs now - has been fueling his saw by opening the saw's tank and pouring in some gas-station petrol, then eye-balling some motor-oil, closing the cap / starting the saw! It's a big-box, regular ~mid-30cc's Poulan model probably $120 MSRP and he's done this for years and it's still a reliable, if weak, chainsaw (though the teeth are original/unsharpened I am sure so I never expect it to cut much, just amazed *it works* w/ the wildly varied oil%, and poor quality of oil & poorly/un-mixed fuel&oil in the reservoir while starting the saw!
Thanks so much for your series, am "working back through" it now, sometimes I think "just let stuff break, then buy new, because it'll all be lith-ion soon and so many of chainsaws'-biggest issues will be a thing of the past", and maybe I'm right but for today, for 2020, I'll be going through a ton more petrol before the day *my* saws are all lith.!!
Oh I should add, for viewers, most of what I learned on fuels was from a vid by Steve's Saloon (quasi-similar channel only it's specific-problem how-to's for 2-strokes whereas this is actually understanding their workings), great video something like "the truth about fuels" or "truth about gas station fuels", I've yet to find which canned-fuels are bona-fide alkylate-only (aside from the obvious MotoMix) and seems TruFuel and Echo's Red are both A-OK, also haven't verified it yet but would be shocked if Husq's 95oct canned stuff is at-all inferior to Motomix so think you could safely presume it to be a true alkylate but w/ Trufuel so cheap, and cans not being sealed at the stores, IMO your best bet is just getting a case of Trufuel from Home Depot, unopened, and stop for an "oral syringe" and a bottle of (stihl/husq/poulan-pro/echo)synthetic 2-stroke, you can then make quarts of 50:1 become 40:1 by adding 4.4oz of your oil, super simple just keep a system IE always oil cans upon purchase because you don't wanna be forgetting "did this one get oil or not?" then it's gotta go into the un-deserving blower and not a saw ;D
HOW ABOUT A COMPRESSION TEST?