Thank you brother, that was tip-top instruction. I don't think you paused the camera once. I didn't want to pay 1/2 the price a the saw itself to get it fixed so I bought a cheaper 450. Now my 550XP is back in action. Yeah!
I was given a 550XP that had ingested it's spark plug electrode when going full chat, thanks to this video I was able to disassemble it, and fit a replacement piston and ring, now it's back up and running again. Amazingly the bore was perfect, yet the piston was so badly shot it had lost compression (ring forced in and peened) Anyway, I'd like to thank you for putting this up, it really helped me out.
Thank you for this video it helped me out greatly! I have watched many other videos on this subject and I'm not knocking or putting them down but you have simplified the procedure effortlessly and clearly with explaination on what and why ( like the removal of the clutch with a flat screwdriver to grease the bearing which I haven't seen anyone else do whilst looking at how to rebuild my saw) for that thank you and I will be following your channel to see what else I can learn from you. Thanks again for the information and video!
Im currently rebuilding mine it had bad scoring on the exhaust side but super smooth carb side. Its a 2014 550xp I got it a from a yard sale for dirt cheap it has very low hours. Because of the known heating issues with these saws I think I'm going to add a muffler mod, heat reflector by carb and slit on top case by cylinder
That’s a good idea these saws definitely need more cooling around the muffler side, would be interested in looking at some mods as my friend as just brought the 560xp
@@KJHart when i pull the starter on mine it’s much tighter then your saw. After 3 or 4 small pulls(I can’t even pull cord out the way) it goes to a dead stop can’t pull cord anymore. Have anything thoughts of suggestions? I just took apart and rebuilding my saw 4 times and can figure why I having issues with the start. All parts are brand new (cylinder/piston) from husqvarna
@@michaelmcphillips9241 ya sure ya put the base gasket back? You ever get it going? I'd bought one at a flea market that was stupid hard to start. Thought it was old fuel or needed a tune up. Turns out the compression is down to 85psi,so I'm gonna be rebuilding it. Still debating on oem vs aftermarket. I dont cut wood for a living,just a few loads for keeping the house warm in winter. Let me know how yours turned out. I'll be ordering my parts this week
Doesn’t the metal choke rod go in that spring on the stop start leaver, I rebuilt a 550 xp and didn’t put the choke rod in between the spring on the stop start switch and the choke flap wasn’t fully open so it was restricting the air flow which made the air to fuel mixture of so this made it run like crap. Not sure if it was to do with the age of the saw as it was 10 years old
That's really helpful I am going to put a pop up piston in my 550 MKII. The five series are much easier to work on than the three series in my opinion. Do you think that 550 just got too hot or was there an air leak that the autotune hid?
Ever had a base gasket leak? I got mine back together ( aftermarket gasket,no sealer) and it idles stupid high like it's got an air leak. Sprayed all the seals and stuff with carb cleaner while it was running and it kept running. Sprayed around the cylinder base and it does every time. Itd been rebuilt before and had an orange gasket maker along with a green gasket when I took it apart.
Hi I have a new 560xp with autotune that has has scoring on the piston and I'm going to change my cylinder is the process the same or will the autotune make it harder to do. Thank you
This is a great video. I just bought a used one from a flea market. The guy that sold it had trouble stating it to show me that it ran. I thought,may be old fuel or needed tune up. It felt like it had compressoon,so I bought it. Now I think the (compression)is actually friction. You gotta crank it like 30 times to start it and it barely idles runs kinda rough. New spark plug,new fuel and filter. Nothing has helped. My son in law is bringing a compression tester and we'll know for sure. Is that an oem piston and cylinder you put on or aftermarket?
@@Akrowdya64 The saw had got put on the the back burner for a while,but I got it put together yesterday. It starts but has some massive air leak somewhere. Itll run wide open for about 10 seconds,leans out and quits. I'm about fed up with it. I dont have any way to vacuum or pressure test it and cant afford to take it to a shop.
Why would you not leak test the crankcase to see why the first cylinder failed. I guess its job security when you end up putting another cylinder on because the seal's😮 leak.
The question is: Why did the piston/cylinder blow up so bad? From heat of course, but what caused the heat? The modern saws seems to run hot from the factory, it's in the design, emissions and so on... But this got a little to hot? Did it run lean? It's autotune, so the mixture is set by a computer... Maybe an air leak somewhere? I'm trying to understand the common failure modes of these modern saws, and how to prevent them... I have a scored up 550xp exactly like yours, thinking the same, take a chanse with chinese cheap parts to make a few hundreds hours more out of it... Good video, and good wrenching skills! Good luck with your saw, hope it lasts long!
Talk about heat problems. My 550xp engine died after 6hrs use. The sad part is that Husqvarna don’t honour their warranty. New gas jug, premium gas, proper mix but they said it was my fault (w/o any proof) and now I’m out $1000. But, thanks to this video you’ve made I’m going to tackle this job myself with a cheap Amazon cylinder ………and never buy another Husqvarna again. Great video. Thanks.
Yeah both saws are very similar except the displacement 50cc for the 550xp and nearly 60cc for the 560xp 👍, it’s great to know my videos help just for work on the camera and audio skills
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I took my 550xp apart 2 years ago then didn't get time to put the new cylinder on! Time passed and I needed this video let's say the least! Thank you
Thank you brother, that was tip-top instruction. I don't think you paused the camera once. I didn't want to pay 1/2 the price a the saw itself to get it fixed so I bought a cheaper 450. Now my 550XP is back in action. Yeah!
I was given a 550XP that had ingested it's spark plug electrode when going full chat, thanks to this video I was able to disassemble it, and fit a replacement piston and ring, now it's back up and running again. Amazingly the bore was perfect, yet the piston was so badly shot it had lost compression (ring forced in and peened)
Anyway, I'd like to thank you for putting this up, it really helped me out.
Great video. Too the point and no BS. Thanks from Canada
Thank you for this video it helped me out greatly!
I have watched many other videos on this subject and I'm not knocking or putting them down but you have simplified the procedure effortlessly and clearly with explaination on what and why ( like the removal of the clutch with a flat screwdriver to grease the bearing which I haven't seen anyone else do whilst looking at how to rebuild my saw) for that thank you and I will be following your channel to see what else I can learn from you. Thanks again for the information and video!
Thank you for subscribing plus it’s really nice to know my videos are helping others with their equipment 👍
@@KJHart oil mix 1:33 is ok ?
Fantastic video matey, exactly as a how to video should be done. Cheers.
Im currently rebuilding mine it had bad scoring on the exhaust side but super smooth carb side. Its a 2014 550xp I got it a from a yard sale for dirt cheap it has very low hours. Because of the known heating issues with these saws I think I'm going to add a muffler mod, heat reflector by carb and slit on top case by cylinder
That’s a good idea these saws definitely need more cooling around the muffler side, would be interested in looking at some mods as my friend as just brought the 560xp
@@KJHart when i pull the starter on mine it’s much tighter then your saw. After 3 or 4 small pulls(I can’t even pull cord out the way) it goes to a dead stop can’t pull cord anymore. Have anything thoughts of suggestions? I just took apart and rebuilding my saw 4 times and can figure why I having issues with the start. All parts are brand new (cylinder/piston) from husqvarna
@@michaelmcphillips9241 ya sure ya put the base gasket back? You ever get it going? I'd bought one at a flea market that was stupid hard to start. Thought it was old fuel or needed a tune up. Turns out the compression is down to 85psi,so I'm gonna be rebuilding it. Still debating on oem vs aftermarket. I dont cut wood for a living,just a few loads for keeping the house warm in winter. Let me know how yours turned out. I'll be ordering my parts this week
Many thanks. Really detailed.
Doesn’t the metal choke rod go in that spring on the stop start leaver, I rebuilt a 550 xp and didn’t put the choke rod in between the spring on the stop start switch and the choke flap wasn’t fully open so it was restricting the air flow which made the air to fuel mixture of so this made it run like crap.
Not sure if it was to do with the age of the saw as it was 10 years old
That's really helpful I am going to put a pop up piston in my 550 MKII. The five series are much easier to work on than the three series in my opinion. Do you think that 550 just got too hot or was there an air leak that the autotune hid?
Excellent and detailed! Thank you.
Ever had a base gasket leak? I got mine back together ( aftermarket gasket,no sealer) and it idles stupid high like it's got an air leak. Sprayed all the seals and stuff with carb cleaner while it was running and it kept running. Sprayed around the cylinder base and it does every time. Itd been rebuilt before and had an orange gasket maker along with a green gasket when I took it apart.
Hi, very helpful video, thank you. Please advise where/ from whom you sourced the parts.
Great video!
Hi I have a new 560xp with autotune that has has scoring on the piston and I'm going to change my cylinder is the process the same or will the autotune make it harder to do. Thank you
This is a great video. I just bought a used one from a flea market. The guy that sold it had trouble stating it to show me that it ran. I thought,may be old fuel or needed tune up. It felt like it had compressoon,so I bought it. Now I think the (compression)is actually friction. You gotta crank it like 30 times to start it and it barely idles runs kinda rough. New spark plug,new fuel and filter. Nothing has helped. My son in law is bringing a compression tester and we'll know for sure. Is that an oem piston and cylinder you put on or aftermarket?
Yup,tested the compression and it's only 85psi. Now to decide whether to go oem or aftermarket for the p/c kit.
@@ciphercode2298 Did you go OEM or Aftermarket, and how's it doing?
@@Akrowdya64 The saw had got put on the the back burner for a while,but I got it put together yesterday. It starts but has some massive air leak somewhere. Itll run wide open for about 10 seconds,leans out and quits. I'm about fed up with it. I dont have any way to vacuum or pressure test it and cant afford to take it to a shop.
@@Akrowdya64 I managed to save the cylinder,but bought a meteor piston and caber ring.
Why would you not leak test the crankcase to see why the first cylinder failed. I guess its job security when you end up putting another cylinder on because the seal's😮 leak.
The question is: Why did the piston/cylinder blow up so bad? From heat of course, but what caused the heat? The modern saws seems to run hot from the factory, it's in the design, emissions and so on... But this got a little to hot? Did it run lean? It's autotune, so the mixture is set by a computer... Maybe an air leak somewhere?
I'm trying to understand the common failure modes of these modern saws, and how to prevent them...
I have a scored up 550xp exactly like yours, thinking the same, take a chanse with chinese cheap parts to make a few hundreds hours more out of it...
Good video, and good wrenching skills! Good luck with your saw, hope it lasts long!
Cylinder cooling is an issue on these saws, they do a mod I seen to help cool them
@@KJHart Yes I've seen it too. Some say the muffler packs heat close to the cylinder also.
Talk about heat problems. My 550xp engine died after 6hrs use. The sad part is that Husqvarna don’t honour their warranty. New gas jug, premium gas, proper mix but they said it was my fault (w/o any proof) and now I’m out $1000. But, thanks to this video you’ve made I’m going to tackle this job myself with a cheap Amazon cylinder ………and never buy another Husqvarna again.
Great video. Thanks.
I appreciate you putting information out there for people but don't you think maybe You should clean those parts up before you install them
were those oem parts or aftermarket? where did you get them?
Very useful video thanks! Have you got a link to the barrel/piston kit you used? How is it holding up?
The kit seems to be holding up quite well, I know some that use a stronger two stroke mix in summer to help cool. eBay item number 203380535983
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Would this be the same for a 560xp thanks
Yeah both saws are very similar except the displacement 50cc for the 550xp and nearly 60cc for the 560xp 👍, it’s great to know my videos help just for work on the camera and audio skills
@@KJHart I've just been told my 560 will cost £460 to fix, so was thinking of doing the job myself or buying a whole new saw.
@@davidmaynard3641 for that piston kit for the 550xp I paid £60
@@KJHart I'm going to sell my husqvarna and buy the new echo instead. My baby echo is now 3 years old and I haven't had one issue with it
Good machines echo i had echo long handle hedgecutters for 10 years before they gave up and I was rough with them 👍
China cylder/ piston ?
Yeah Chinesium quality part 😂 seems to be holding up so far even tho these saw get hot
@@KJHartworki for china postom and cylinder ?
because autotune has to be put on a computer and updated, because it doesn't work well for me, everything stutters,👍👎
👏🔊👏👍👌🇳🇴
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