I live in Louisiana and i dont add oil to anything but the head, tail head and 1 way bearing. Oil anywhere else attracts dirt and the parts wear out even quicker at least in my experience.
Good stuff. Ive used scorpion bearing oil and triflow on everything. Never thought to grease the main shaft and tail shaft. Makes sense. The grease is less likely to fling off like triflow. Ive always flown full gear systems and found using a little parafin wax on those gears helps with the chattering.
I’ve used the bearing oil but never used triflow, the microlube is expensive for what you get but it’s great. Stays on the shafts for many many flights and don’t make a mess and fling off right away. Wax does work great to quite the gears down.
Consider why apply ANY liquid lube to bearings. They are partly sealed with grease not oil. Greased for life. Oil would only dilute the grease. If no grease, replace bearing
In the full scale aviation world, nylocks or nylon stop nuts are usually a one time install then tossed. Now that’s a little over kill for a model but as inexpensive these are by the 100, I change mine after three installs. I mark the nut with a dot from a sharpie after it’s tightened each time. If there are three dots when I take it off, then I use a new one. Kinda anal but 40 years of working on airplanes, from models to fighters you tend to get that way. Your videos are really informative. If anyone hasn’t bought Kubler products prepare for sticker shock. The micro lube is cheap at $30 compared to the bearing grease for my CNC mill bearings. That said, it will last a long time and is the most recommended product in many industries.
Yes technically speaking nylon lock nuts are one time use but I’m the models they don’t need to be changed unless they no longer hold. I’ve had some last forever and some last once or twice and some brand new not hold at all. I’ve got 100s of them. I replace them as needed. With the main blades if I notice after every flight my main or tail blades keep coming lose then I know time to change the lock nuts. But you can never be to cautious. Would rather do things overkill then failures. Yes microlube is expensive compared to others used but well worth every penny.
Great video but I gotta say, I have never oil any of my belts. It seems very strange to me but I guess if It's silicon it should be ok. I like to use "Dry Fluid extreme heli" on my shafts as it is not a grease that will attract dirt.
I’ve been using 3:1 silicone oil on my belts for many many years now. The belts last for ever but! It depends on where you fly. I never get dirt or anything from the grease (unless I crash) but if you live in a sandy or dusty area and get a lot of dirt on your helis then yeah Dry Fluid is better.
Great video. Thank you. If you had a helicopter sitting for a year, what components should I focus on or shpuld it be ok with just a visual inspection? Thanks.
@@LoveRC that will happen, bearings need lubricant. You will find how much longer and nicer your bearing and belts and heli will be and last. 3-1 Air tool oil works great as well!
Caution about lube on one way. Consider it is not actually a bearing. It’s a clutch. It works by friction. Lube is nearly for life, stops rust mostly. I used Teflon based lube and regretted it. TOO slippery. Lost power and HARD auto a few times. Totally cleaned one way and applied minimum crappy lube. Never a problem again.
I’m a brand new rc helicopter pilot. I’ve owned fixed wings before. I have a FlyWing Bell 206 V3 and I for the life of my can’t completely get rid of a vibration on shutdown. It used to do it on spool up as well. I’ve adjusted the main blades many times and can’t seem to get it right although I’ve made it considerably better. Please help.
Welcome to the dark side! Lol so first question, has it done it since new? Have you check the balance of both blades? Some helicopters have a residency, which creates a vibration on either spool down and or spool up.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 it has done it since new. It’s only about a week old with around 10 successful flights. I have not checked the blade balance. I’ll have to watch a video on how to do that.
Puzzled by flyers using silicon on belts. No manufacturer recommends it. So called dry lube would still risk attracting grit. Typically cars run timing belts way harder and longer without any product applied.
I know it is not a practice to use any lube on the blade roots but I was really wondering why not. Would it reduce wear on the blade roots and on the blade grips? One aspect I considered is that it would collect dust and make wear even faster but why dont we use DryFluid or other PTFE stuff? It would reduce friction that could cause issues at spool up, like unwanted blade strike on the grips. Other thing is that if the libe film is too thick it would make the grip and the head more “flexible” maybe in a wrong way, but a very thin layer would not cause such problems. So generally if we do not consider dust collection and rigidity/flexibility issues, why dont we do that?
Never thought about that! I’ve always use silicone oil on the tail belts any conditioner it would actually work. Belt conditioner would probably work as well lol thank you for watching!
Very cool! In America there are o many great things for helis. I think I was an American in another life. I'm very drawn there. Can anyone recommend a very good RC Heli parts shop in America? Best for nitro
Thanks for the video I was really looking forward to this one. Any chance you'll be doing a Nimbus 550 build in the future? After I build my RAW 420 I'm thinking the Nimbus is going to be my next step forward.
You’re welcome! Thank you for watching, I hope I will. I have a XL 550 kit that I need to build but it is the older kids and not the Nimbus. But I might be building a Nimbus soon so we will see!
Glad no suggestion of lube main gear. That’s a no no. At least if it’s premium Delrin (polyoxymethylene) like SAB use. SABs own manual advise no lube. Maybe occasional wd40 (which is not actually a lube ) ….that’s just to keep gear cool in hot conditions. All lubes just attract grit, the enemy. If gear looks dirty, I use wd40 just as a cleaner. Wipe up any mess with paper towel
Well that’s no true, it helps keep the belt lasting and not cracking over time. I’ve got belts that are over 15 years old and zero issues with 1000s of flights.
Not gonna lie but the section about lubrication was painfull to watch. Belts are designed to be used without lubrication. An oiled belt will attract dust and wear down faster. The wrong type of lubricant can even attack the rubber components of the belt. The main rotor and tail rotor shaft usually don't need lubrication either. Especially if your tailrotor uses a bronze bushing. And putting any kind of Oil onto ZZ-Bearings is a big No-No. Those bearings are packed with a lifetime supply of grease. Adding oil will change the properties of the grease packing or wash it out entirely.
Keep doing your way and I will do mine. Many, many, many heli manufacturers will tell you to oil/Grease main shaft bearings belts and so on. Keep doing your way that works for you. Go pop one of those bearing apart and show me how much grease is in this bearing.. none.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Every ZZ and 2RS Bearing should come pre-packed with grease. If you found one without grease it's most likely one of those you already flushed clean with silicone oil. The 2RS Bearings on my Gaui are definetly all greased up by the Factory, just double checked it.
@@taumelscheibe5948 just pulled 10 brand new bearings a part zero grease. These are out of the package bearings. So again no grease. But you keep doing what you find works best for you!
Once again, a great practical video that everyone from beginner to advanced flier can use. Great job Jeff!
Thank you Jeff! I hope these videos are useful for everyone.
I live in Louisiana and i dont add oil to anything but the head, tail head and 1 way bearing. Oil anywhere else attracts dirt and the parts wear out even quicker at least in my experience.
Yes, if you live/fly in a area with a lot of dirt you will not want to oil some things.
Good stuff. Ive used scorpion bearing oil and triflow on everything. Never thought to grease the main shaft and tail shaft. Makes sense. The grease is less likely to fling off like triflow. Ive always flown full gear systems and found using a little parafin wax on those gears helps with the chattering.
I’ve used the bearing oil but never used triflow, the microlube is expensive for what you get but it’s great. Stays on the shafts for many many flights and don’t make a mess and fling off right away. Wax does work great to quite the gears down.
Consider why apply ANY liquid lube to bearings. They are partly sealed with grease not oil. Greased for life. Oil would only dilute the grease. If no grease, replace bearing
great video as always Jeff, thanks you for being such a amazing contributor to this sport!!
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoy the channel and for the kind words!
I recommend gun or skin/wound swabbing qtips. They are a sponge material and wont leave debris of cotton.
great idea! I’ve got those!
Another Incredible Video, Jeff! Thanks for sharing this wonderful information with us, the viewers!
You’re welcome Larry! Thank you very much for watching.
great as always - you forgot the swashplate bearing. nice fleet btw !
Thank you! Yes I did, realized it after the video lol
I did not listen to the video… but wanted to say i am sure it’s great… will listen to it tonight and thanks for the video 😊
Thank you! I hope you enjoy the video and find it useful!
I hope you made more tutorial on flying collective pitch.
@@josephnavarro7603 I’m working on a few! Going to go more in-depth and continue the series.
In the full scale aviation world, nylocks or nylon stop nuts are usually a one time install then tossed. Now that’s a little over kill for a model but as inexpensive these are by the 100, I change mine after three installs. I mark the nut with a dot from a sharpie after it’s tightened each time. If there are three dots when I take it off, then I use a new one. Kinda anal but 40 years of working on airplanes, from models to fighters you tend to get that way. Your videos are really informative. If anyone hasn’t bought Kubler products prepare for sticker shock. The micro lube is cheap at $30 compared to the bearing grease for my CNC mill bearings. That said, it will last a long time and is the most recommended product in many industries.
Yes technically speaking nylon lock nuts are one time use but I’m the models they don’t need to be changed unless they no longer hold. I’ve had some last forever and some last once or twice and some brand new not hold at all. I’ve got 100s of them. I replace them as needed. With the main blades if I notice after every flight my main or tail blades keep coming lose then I know time to change the lock nuts. But you can never be to cautious. Would rather do things overkill then failures. Yes microlube is expensive compared to others used but well worth every penny.
Wow that goblin 700 look badass
It is! Can’t wait to fly this one!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 That 700 looks familiar
@@jasonmbiggs it does! Wonder where it came from! Lol
Great video and very helpful.
Thank you! I’m glad the video was helpful.
Genial amigo muy buen vídeo
El aceite dela correa es para limpieza o algo más ?? Lla que Llo no le echo nada ala mía
Thank you, the oil used on the belt is to keep it lasting and not drying out or cracking.
Gracias amigo felizes vuelos
Excellent Video. Thanks Jeff.
You’re welcome! I hope the video is helpful!
Hell yeah, great tips here brother. Keep up the great work!
Thank you Jason! I greatly appreciate it. I hope the video is useful!
Very good information
Thank you Toby!
Very good information. Thank you Jeff.🧙♂👍
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video is helpful!
Hi Jeff, what about the plastic gears, do we greese the main and tail gears. What do you do and what do you recommend? Thank you for the video.
Great video but I gotta say, I have never oil any of my belts. It seems very strange to me but I guess if It's silicon it should be ok. I like to use "Dry Fluid extreme heli" on my shafts as it is not a grease that will attract dirt.
I’ve been using 3:1 silicone oil on my belts for many many years now. The belts last for ever but! It depends on where you fly. I never get dirt or anything from the grease (unless I crash) but if you live in a sandy or dusty area and get a lot of dirt on your helis then yeah Dry Fluid is better.
Thanks for this.
You’re welcome!
We need more, and more Trex 600 Nitro videos please, of course the old one. Btw niice video. :) your Trex 600N is amazing!
Thank you! I hope the video is helpful! I’ve got a Trex 600n video coming out soon!
Great video. Thank you. If you had a helicopter sitting for a year, what components should I focus on or shpuld it be ok with just a visual inspection? Thanks.
Jeff, I'm not famailar with the fabric paint tip. Do you just put a dab on it on the servo plugs after they've been fully pressed in?
Yes you do. I run a line (bead across all the pins) let it dry and you can peel it back off if need be.
Would you do the same to the Blade Fusion 180 and Fusion 360 as far as the shaft, bears, and belt go?
100%! It is how I maintain all my helicopters regardless of size.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Thanks! I just ordered all the supplies. My buddies 360 just had the bearings go bad. He never lubricated it.
You’re welcome!
@@LoveRC that will happen, bearings need lubricant. You will find how much longer and nicer your bearing and belts and heli will be and last. 3-1 Air tool oil works great as well!
Caution about lube on one way. Consider it is not actually a bearing. It’s a clutch. It works by friction. Lube is nearly for life, stops rust mostly. I used Teflon based lube and regretted it. TOO slippery. Lost power and HARD auto a few times. Totally cleaned one way and applied minimum crappy lube. Never a problem again.
I’m a brand new rc helicopter pilot. I’ve owned fixed wings before. I have a FlyWing Bell 206 V3 and I for the life of my can’t completely get rid of a vibration on shutdown. It used to do it on spool up as well. I’ve adjusted the main blades many times and can’t seem to get it right although I’ve made it considerably better. Please help.
Welcome to the dark side! Lol so first question, has it done it since new? Have you check the balance of both blades? Some helicopters have a residency, which creates a vibration on either spool down and or spool up.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 it has done it since new. It’s only about a week old with around 10 successful flights. I have not checked the blade balance. I’ll have to watch a video on how to do that.
Puzzled by flyers using silicon on belts. No manufacturer recommends it. So called dry lube would still risk attracting grit. Typically cars run timing belts way harder and longer without any product applied.
I know it is not a practice to use any lube on the blade roots but I was really wondering why not. Would it reduce wear on the blade roots and on the blade grips?
One aspect I considered is that it would collect dust and make wear even faster but why dont we use DryFluid or other PTFE stuff? It would reduce friction that could cause issues at spool up, like unwanted blade strike on the grips.
Other thing is that if the libe film is too thick it would make the grip and the head more “flexible” maybe in a wrong way, but a very thin layer would not cause such problems.
So generally if we do not consider dust collection and rigidity/flexibility issues, why dont we do that?
I have used Armor All for tail belts as well! Same exact application 😂
Great video for the newbies and vets too!
Never thought about that! I’ve always use silicone oil on the tail belts any conditioner it would actually work. Belt conditioner would probably work as well lol thank you for watching!
First after a long rest from youtube
Heck yeah!
Soooo helpful! THANK YOU! :)
You’re welcome! I’m glad the video is helpful!
Very cool! In America there are o many great things for helis. I think I was an American in another life. I'm very drawn there. Can anyone recommend a very good RC Heli parts shop in America? Best for nitro
Yes there is! America is great! Check out helidirect!
Thanks for the video I was really looking forward to this one. Any chance you'll be doing a Nimbus 550 build in the future? After I build my RAW 420 I'm thinking the Nimbus is going to be my next step forward.
You’re welcome! Thank you for watching, I hope I will. I have a XL 550 kit that I need to build but it is the older kids and not the Nimbus. But I might be building a Nimbus soon so we will see!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 would love to see your building tutorial on the older kit when you get a chance as well! Looking forward to it!
Glad no suggestion of lube main gear. That’s a no no. At least if it’s premium Delrin (polyoxymethylene) like SAB use. SABs own manual advise no lube. Maybe occasional wd40 (which is not actually a lube ) ….that’s just to keep gear cool in hot conditions. All lubes just attract grit, the enemy. If gear looks dirty, I use wd40 just as a cleaner. Wipe up any mess with paper towel
Many say leave the belt dry, it does nothing to improve longevity of belt and may allow more dirt to stick
Well that’s no true, it helps keep the belt lasting and not cracking over time. I’ve got belts that are over 15 years old and zero issues with 1000s of flights.
Step 1 Leave no screw unturned.
Go over the whole model!
why does this guy sound like yoga the bear is it just me LOL
Maybe I am Yogu bear!
Not gonna lie but the section about lubrication was painfull to watch.
Belts are designed to be used without lubrication.
An oiled belt will attract dust and wear down faster.
The wrong type of lubricant can even attack the rubber components of the belt.
The main rotor and tail rotor shaft usually don't need lubrication either.
Especially if your tailrotor uses a bronze bushing.
And putting any kind of Oil onto ZZ-Bearings is a big No-No.
Those bearings are packed with a lifetime supply of grease.
Adding oil will change the properties of the grease packing or wash it out entirely.
This is what I've heard too.
Keep doing your way and I will do mine. Many, many, many heli manufacturers will tell you to oil/Grease main shaft bearings belts and so on. Keep doing your way that works for you. Go pop one of those bearing apart and show me how much grease is in this bearing.. none.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Every ZZ and 2RS Bearing should come pre-packed with grease.
If you found one without grease it's most likely one of those you already flushed clean with silicone oil.
The 2RS Bearings on my Gaui are definetly all greased up by the Factory, just double checked it.
@@taumelscheibe5948 just pulled 10 brand new bearings a part zero grease. These are out of the package bearings. So again no grease. But you keep doing what you find works best for you!