15:55 - Any Miata owners out there watching with a rear main seal leak, please listen to his advice here. Miatas have a very similar rear carrier for the rear main that is sealed to the block and oil pan with RTV. I did my clutch and only replaced the leaking rear main seal. Turns out the carrier is also leaking where it seals to the block. My clutch is now contaminated with oil and the car still drips on the ground, albeit less than it did before. Now I'm looking at dropping the trans again and doing everything over. Do it right the first time. Suffice it to say, you made the right choice, Charles.
@@mexifinn7830 I know there's a write up and video out there to fix this problem on Miatas. Technically the correct way is to drop the oil pan, but it can be done this way as well. Removing the oil pan on 90-05 cars either involves dropping the subframe or pulling the engine.
@@dil6969 I've done it both ways. Dropped the trans on my NB1 to change the clutch, and found the oil pan half moon seal leaking. I did the "force-it" method using clamps to force the carrier into place with a new half moon seal. Nope, still leaked. This past winter I pulled the entire engine and trans out to clean and reseal everything, including resealing the oil pan with new OEM half moon seals, with the engine upside down on a stand. 10000x easier that way, and now I have 100% zero leaks.
@@Patrick94GSR I appreciate your insight. My car's in good shape and isn't my daily anymore, so I'll probably set aside an entire weekend to remove the oil pan and do it the right way. I'm sure someone could pull it off the other way, but considering how old these cars are, I wouldn't be surprised if the oil pan itself is seeping a bit, necessitating its complete removal and resealing along with the carrier. Plus, I really don't want to risk having to do it again.
@@dil6969 if you don’t need to drive the car I highly recommend pulling the drivetrain and taking your time. I spent 3 months working on mine. It was quite satisfying getting it all back together.
I do own VWs… but I just watch Charles content for relaxation. I def follow his how to’s when wrenching on my Mk4s but I also just pick an episode and watch for no reason… 🤙🏽
Charles, don't worry about that 3rd starter bolt, I would wager that about 75% of "New Edge" Mustangs with V8s (can't speak to the V6) don't have that 3rd starter bolt anymore.
This is a lot more fun while laying on your back. Mine was missing a starter bolt too. And it was also missing half the bell housing bolts. The bolts it did have were so over-torqued it was ridiculous. Had to use every extension in my toolbox, a flex joint, and borrow my neighbor's air impact to get the top ones loose. Also needed all the extensions to get that starter bolt from the front. While my rear wheels were off the ground I put it in gear and it appears the input shaft has a slight wobble to it. I think the whole transmission is shot. It is pretty noisy and reverse has been going out for a few years now. It was making a chchchchch noise which prompted me to replace the pilot and throw out bearings. While it did improve the sound slightly, it still sounds bad. Next I'll be looking at rebuilding it if I don't just drive it until it grenades. It still shifts perfect in the forward gears and that new McLeod clutch is very nice. I suspect the shaft wobble will kill the throw out bearing again pretty soon and I'll address it later. That could be 50k miles down the road.
the hardest part about doing these jobs on jacks is getting the car high enough to get the transmission out of the way. That and laying in gravel. NO FUN!
@@HumbleMechanic I'm about at the point where I'd rather pull the entire engine and trans together, and separate them on the floor, than to drop the trans by itself from underneath with the car on jack stands. Having done it both ways on my Miata, it was SO MUCH EASIER with the engine out of the car.
I accidentally put the friction disc in the wrong way once. It welded itself to to cluth releas bearing. Took me 8 hours to pry it back off...and a new friction disc. Haha I sure wish you were a BMW diesel guy. You would probably have TONS of great tips!
Oh, man, that's a pain. I moved back from Germany to Romania last year, and we had to haul some stuff, furniture, spare wheels for my GTI, etc, and the trailer was pretty heavy behind the B8 Passat. The clutch was working fine. It had a small issue, where sometimes the pedal wouldn't come back out all the way, but otherwise it was fine. The heavy trailer may have just accelerated what was already there, and sure enough, in the middle of Austria, it failed completely. I had to drive it clutch-less 100 km to a friend of a friend, who happened to have a 2-post lift outdoors, in his yard. We found the part, got to work at 6 PM, and by noon next day we were back on the road. It was a hassle and a half, but I guess where there's a will...
Great video! I drove my golf 4 TDI with a toasted clutch for a year. I had it replaced last month and it made a huge difference. It shifts like a new car once again.
This is a great video. You sir have gained my respect (not that it matters) to when you replaced the 3rd starter bolt even though po didn’t put it in. I have all the parts for my clutch job on my 97 mustang and I did learn a lot from this video. I thank you very much !
The squeaky bearing reminded me of That Dude in Blues brake booster leak in their hellcat magnum build. If you haven’t checked out that video, it’s simply hilarious. As epic as the car is, one can’t help but be distracted by the constant hilariously squeaky vacuum sound from the brake booster.
I saw this car for sale and pressed the yt video that came with it, ive been watching your videos since. I dont know much about cars so its nice to learn something about cars for once lol.
I remember doing this job on my Mustang, while lying on my back on a gravel driveway. When it came time for my GTI to get a new clutch, I didn't want any part of that nonsense.
When I did the clutch on a Honda civic the break in procedure for it was drive it a couple hundred miles minimizing clutch slip when starting and shifting gears. The clutch pedal started out very very light almost to where I can push it with my finger then as the clutch bedded in the pedal felt better and better
Loved your videos with G&G, had watched your videos prior and you’re a wealth of knowledge! I myself am learning and am stuck with my FTO not running properly… (short of whats happening up) learning heaps but stumped!
31:25 I personally use a 1Gal pump sprayer to put the oil for de transmission, similar to the one you use for DSGs, works magic every time and i save some energy from my fingers lol as always good content, i cant wait to see the final episode from the F&F Jetta.
Charles ! Those mustangs are actually prone to having the input shaft bearing cause that sound ! I chased it for years and did multiple clutch parts and TB , pilot ball and new clutch fork !!! Please check input shaft play !!!!
I always put transmission assembly grease on the seals retaining spring so it doesn’t pop out when installing once true engine heats up the grease will Melt away
Count me in for having forgotten the plate between the trans and block on my NB Miata. Had the trans bolted back up, and man it sucked having to drop it back down and remove the clutch and flywheel again.
For the SN/New Edge owners watching this… 1) if your top starter bolt is in place, a 1/4” ratchet with a long extension(s) fed through from the front of the motor between the manifold and motor Mount is the easiest way. Kind of have to go off of feel as it’s a bit blind to get to it. Take your time. 2) Filling your trans. If you hate those pumps like I do, or don’t have one or forget to get one…remove your fill plug and you can fill the trans from the interior by pouring through where the shifter mounts. Once it starts dribbling through the fill port, you’re good! This applies to the T5, T45, TR3650, and T56. 3) if your driveshaft bolts are extra crusty…heat is your friend. Be sure to use a 12pt! 4) If you own a T5, T45, or T56, do yourself a favor and order a bronze shifter bushing. It replaces that junk plastic cup that sits in the gear selector. The plastic cup degrades with time. The bronze cup holds up better and gives a tighter feel. Grab a short throw shifter too! The stock one has to come out, might as well replace it! 5) lastly, this is the perfect time to inspect and/or replace your clutch quadrant. The stock plastic ones get brittle with age. Pickup a firewall adjuster and aluminum quadrant. Take your time and keep an inventory of all bolts and parts removed. It’s not a particularly difficult job, just a bit time consuming. Having an extra set of hands is absolutely worth it if you’re doing this on jackstands. Be safe and have a couple of beers once you’re done!
Fun times love the video. Just wondering did the throw our bearing have preload. Mine had the after market quadrant and adjuster and it was hard to find any information of how to set it.
Didn't notice you tighten the 2 bottom bolts. Just thought you should tighten them before you torture eventing all down. To make make sure you don't get no leaks. Just wounding
Ford didn’t specify either way. Vw has a similar setup. They call out hand tight all, torque the bottoms, then the rest. I thought I mentioned in this video but may not have. I very sure I mention in the vr6 chain video coming soon
Secret that no pro mechanic does ever!!! : When you remove the transmission, there may be some plastic bushes on the shifter knob assembly that are only accessible with the trans removed (eg in BMWs). Get all these plastic bushes from the dealer, there may be 4 or 5 parts, they are mega cheap (they all were 12eur for my Audi) and replace them irrespective of their condition! With this your 150k mile shifter will shift and feel like when the car was new...
What the heck is with the 11/16" hex head on the flywheel bolts?! I double checked and the stock bolts are M10x1.0 thread indeed with an 11/16" hex head. Ford must have determined that 17mm was too small in terms of clamping surface, but an 18mm hex head would be too expensive? Or maybe it's a mass thing. Maybe they just wanted to create a tear in the space-time continuum by using an SAE head on a metric fastener?!
Clutch break in guidelines always seem to be pretty unrealistic. I haven’t broken in to many but I’m use it feels like it’s pretty well done in like 50 to100 cycles.
You have already discovered the starter hack-only install 2 bolts, leaving out the top bolt. I noticed you skipped showing how you reached the top starter bolt.
There's a reason why you only had two starter bolts. Either the starter has been replaced or the clutch and/or trans has. We never put that top bolt back. Never.
I have faulty relase bearing in my car for 6 years now (ik i still can't belive it works) and i can't be bother to replace it+i don't have tools to do it.Other then anoying sound i don't see a reason why should i do this.
@@HumbleMechanic I really like your challenge series and stay tuned is building a LS Porsche but that has already been done and you're a super mechanic so I'm thinking you build a coyote swap Porsche for a new challenge series
Love how you showed what happens when you tightened the pressure plate all the way on one side.
15:55 - Any Miata owners out there watching with a rear main seal leak, please listen to his advice here. Miatas have a very similar rear carrier for the rear main that is sealed to the block and oil pan with RTV. I did my clutch and only replaced the leaking rear main seal. Turns out the carrier is also leaking where it seals to the block. My clutch is now contaminated with oil and the car still drips on the ground, albeit less than it did before. Now I'm looking at dropping the trans again and doing everything over. Do it right the first time. Suffice it to say, you made the right choice, Charles.
NA6 owner here thanks you!
@@mexifinn7830 I know there's a write up and video out there to fix this problem on Miatas. Technically the correct way is to drop the oil pan, but it can be done this way as well. Removing the oil pan on 90-05 cars either involves dropping the subframe or pulling the engine.
@@dil6969 I've done it both ways. Dropped the trans on my NB1 to change the clutch, and found the oil pan half moon seal leaking. I did the "force-it" method using clamps to force the carrier into place with a new half moon seal. Nope, still leaked. This past winter I pulled the entire engine and trans out to clean and reseal everything, including resealing the oil pan with new OEM half moon seals, with the engine upside down on a stand. 10000x easier that way, and now I have 100% zero leaks.
@@Patrick94GSR I appreciate your insight. My car's in good shape and isn't my daily anymore, so I'll probably set aside an entire weekend to remove the oil pan and do it the right way.
I'm sure someone could pull it off the other way, but considering how old these cars are, I wouldn't be surprised if the oil pan itself is seeping a bit, necessitating its complete removal and resealing along with the carrier. Plus, I really don't want to risk having to do it again.
@@dil6969 if you don’t need to drive the car I highly recommend pulling the drivetrain and taking your time. I spent 3 months working on mine. It was quite satisfying getting it all back together.
Somehow I suspect you are enjoying the simplicity of this car versus the complexity that is Euro cars. Nice work, my man!
I'm not a tech, a Ford guy, haven't even owned a vdub in years, but I still watched this entire video. love watching your content Keep it up! 👍
Thank you
I do own VWs… but I just watch Charles content for relaxation. I def follow his how to’s when wrenching on my Mk4s but I also just pick an episode and watch for no reason… 🤙🏽
For some reason I can only focus on his magnificent beard
Cant be mad at that LOL
Big ZZ Top fan lol
Charles, don't worry about that 3rd starter bolt, I would wager that about 75% of "New Edge" Mustangs with V8s (can't speak to the V6) don't have that 3rd starter bolt anymore.
Hahhaha it didn’t have issues before hand so I prob could have been fine. But I wanted to get it as right as I could for the new owner
This is a lot more fun while laying on your back. Mine was missing a starter bolt too. And it was also missing half the bell housing bolts. The bolts it did have were so over-torqued it was ridiculous. Had to use every extension in my toolbox, a flex joint, and borrow my neighbor's air impact to get the top ones loose. Also needed all the extensions to get that starter bolt from the front. While my rear wheels were off the ground I put it in gear and it appears the input shaft has a slight wobble to it. I think the whole transmission is shot. It is pretty noisy and reverse has been going out for a few years now. It was making a chchchchch noise which prompted me to replace the pilot and throw out bearings. While it did improve the sound slightly, it still sounds bad. Next I'll be looking at rebuilding it if I don't just drive it until it grenades. It still shifts perfect in the forward gears and that new McLeod clutch is very nice. I suspect the shaft wobble will kill the throw out bearing again pretty soon and I'll address it later. That could be 50k miles down the road.
the hardest part about doing these jobs on jacks is getting the car high enough to get the transmission out of the way.
That and laying in gravel. NO FUN!
@@HumbleMechanic I'm about at the point where I'd rather pull the entire engine and trans together, and separate them on the floor, than to drop the trans by itself from underneath with the car on jack stands. Having done it both ways on my Miata, it was SO MUCH EASIER with the engine out of the car.
@@HumbleMechanic last one i did was alot of snow on ground. not fun.
I accidentally put the friction disc in the wrong way once. It welded itself to to cluth releas bearing. Took me 8 hours to pry it back off...and a new friction disc. Haha
I sure wish you were a BMW diesel guy. You would probably have TONS of great tips!
Oh, man, that's a pain. I moved back from Germany to Romania last year, and we had to haul some stuff, furniture, spare wheels for my GTI, etc, and the trailer was pretty heavy behind the B8 Passat. The clutch was working fine. It had a small issue, where sometimes the pedal wouldn't come back out all the way, but otherwise it was fine. The heavy trailer may have just accelerated what was already there, and sure enough, in the middle of Austria, it failed completely. I had to drive it clutch-less 100 km to a friend of a friend, who happened to have a 2-post lift outdoors, in his yard. We found the part, got to work at 6 PM, and by noon next day we were back on the road. It was a hassle and a half, but I guess where there's a will...
Also ford tech here for the top starter bolt I use my snap on 3/8 electric ratchet with a wobble 10mm socket with a 6in extension. Works perfect
You are the man. I love how you do all the right way. Great job!!
Great video! I drove my golf 4 TDI with a toasted clutch for a year. I had it replaced last month and it made a huge difference. It shifts like a new car once again.
This is a great video. You sir have gained my respect (not that it matters) to when you replaced the 3rd starter bolt even though po didn’t put it in. I have all the parts for my clutch job on my 97 mustang and I did learn a lot from this video. I thank you very much !
The squeaky bearing reminded me of That Dude in Blues brake booster leak in their hellcat magnum build. If you haven’t checked out that video, it’s simply hilarious. As epic as the car is, one can’t help but be distracted by the constant hilariously squeaky vacuum sound from the brake booster.
😂😂
I saw this car for sale and pressed the yt video that came with it, ive been watching your videos since. I dont know much about cars so its nice to learn something about cars for once lol.
I remember doing this job on my Mustang, while lying on my back on a gravel driveway. When it came time for my GTI to get a new clutch, I didn't want any part of that nonsense.
A big job making it look easy.
When I did the clutch on a Honda civic the break in procedure for it was drive it a couple hundred miles minimizing clutch slip when starting and shifting gears. The clutch pedal started out very very light almost to where I can push it with my finger then as the clutch bedded in the pedal felt better and better
Loved your videos with G&G, had watched your videos prior and you’re a wealth of knowledge! I myself am learning and am stuck with my FTO not running properly… (short of whats happening up) learning heaps but stumped!
12:13 Thanks for giving me a new idea for a revenue stream: selling my old bent VW valves as Mustang flywheel holding tools! 😁
Nicest mustang I have ever seen❤
Steve Dulcich on Roadkill Garage taught me the wrench holding trick but it was for a torque converter
It’s a good tip.
Love to see that us 2v guys still never put that 3rd bolt back on the starter. its a pain in the ass and we just say screw it and leave it off
Same with the 4Vs.
31:25 I personally use a 1Gal pump sprayer to put the oil for de transmission, similar to the one you use for DSGs, works magic every time and i save some energy from my fingers lol as always good content, i cant wait to see the final episode from the F&F Jetta.
You can also just pour the fluid in from the top before you remount the shifter.
@@joeb9793that's right too.
I WORK FOR VW AND YOU ARE IN OUR TRAINING VIDEOS!
😎 lol nope that’s a good thing 😂
Great job Charles, very well explained💯👌👍😎
On the starter bolts stack 2 swivel universals and you can hook it around to get them out.
Charles ! Those mustangs are actually prone to having the input shaft bearing cause that sound ! I chased it for years and did multiple clutch parts and TB , pilot ball and new clutch fork !!! Please check input shaft play !!!!
Sorry don’t typos , typing while driving
Man, I remember using those pumps. What a pain. The worst part was I forgot I could fill mine through the shifter.
I always put transmission assembly grease on the seals retaining spring so it doesn’t pop out when installing once true engine heats up the grease will
Melt away
Count me in for having forgotten the plate between the trans and block on my NB Miata. Had the trans bolted back up, and man it sucked having to drop it back down and remove the clutch and flywheel again.
Outstanding once again. Loved the 11/16 comment.
18:38 Thats a good Tip!
Alway look forward to your videos 👍🏻
Thank you
Notification SQuad Have a nice weekend!🔥🔥🔥
For the SN/New Edge owners watching this…
1) if your top starter bolt is in place, a 1/4” ratchet with a long extension(s) fed through from the front of the motor between the manifold and motor Mount is the easiest way. Kind of have to go off of feel as it’s a bit blind to get to it. Take your time.
2) Filling your trans. If you hate those pumps like I do, or don’t have one or forget to get one…remove your fill plug and you can fill the trans from the interior by pouring through where the shifter mounts. Once it starts dribbling through the fill port, you’re good! This applies to the T5, T45, TR3650, and T56.
3) if your driveshaft bolts are extra crusty…heat is your friend. Be sure to use a 12pt!
4) If you own a T5, T45, or T56, do yourself a favor and order a bronze shifter bushing. It replaces that junk plastic cup that sits in the gear selector. The plastic cup degrades with time. The bronze cup holds up better and gives a tighter feel. Grab a short throw shifter too! The stock one has to come out, might as well replace it!
5) lastly, this is the perfect time to inspect and/or replace your clutch quadrant. The stock plastic ones get brittle with age. Pickup a firewall adjuster and aluminum quadrant.
Take your time and keep an inventory of all bolts and parts removed. It’s not a particularly difficult job, just a bit time consuming. Having an extra set of hands is absolutely worth it if you’re doing this on jackstands.
Be safe and have a couple of beers once you’re done!
Awesome insight
@@HumbleMechanic been under a few of these over the years. About to crawl back under mine soon.
Thank you.
Charles, try some Motorcraft Silicone Gasket Remover ZC-30-A. This stuff is amazing. And for sealing, Motorcraft TA-357. Best stuff I have ever found.
Thank you !!!! I’ll check it
Fun times love the video. Just wondering did the throw our bearing have preload. Mine had the after market quadrant and adjuster and it was hard to find any information of how to set it.
Smart to save the clutch alignment tool for the next time you do a… (checks notes) 4.6l Mustang clutch lol
It would be awesome if you did a podcast with Collector Car Feed
Super Video ❤
Very cool
Didn't notice you tighten the 2 bottom bolts. Just thought you should tighten them before you torture eventing all down. To make make sure you don't get no leaks. Just wounding
Ford didn’t specify either way.
Vw has a similar setup. They call out hand tight all, torque the bottoms, then the rest. I thought I mentioned in this video but may not have.
I very sure I mention in the vr6 chain video coming soon
Secret that no pro mechanic does ever!!! : When you remove the transmission, there may be some plastic bushes on the shifter knob assembly that are only accessible with the trans removed (eg in BMWs). Get all these plastic bushes from the dealer, there may be 4 or 5 parts, they are mega cheap (they all were 12eur for my Audi) and replace them irrespective of their condition! With this your 150k mile shifter will shift and feel like when the car was new...
Good job
Thank you
Hi I was wondering. Vw drycluch transmission can I use a regular gear oil. Since there is no valves in the transmission???
Where can I find it to buy it
Is there a place to grab a humblemechanic tshirt??
What the heck is with the 11/16" hex head on the flywheel bolts?! I double checked and the stock bolts are M10x1.0 thread indeed with an 11/16" hex head. Ford must have determined that 17mm was too small in terms of clamping surface, but an 18mm hex head would be too expensive? Or maybe it's a mass thing. Maybe they just wanted to create a tear in the space-time continuum by using an SAE head on a metric fastener?!
Them new edges are famous for the throw out bearings to shit them selves
what is that high pitch beeping?
😎👍
Clutch break in guidelines always seem to be pretty unrealistic. I haven’t broken in to many but I’m use it feels like it’s pretty well done in like 50 to100 cycles.
Yea unofficially I agree. Lol
You have already discovered the starter hack-only install 2 bolts, leaving out the top bolt. I noticed you skipped showing how you reached the top starter bolt.
on god no cap
Facts on fact brahhh
😊
Sorry the bolts for the rear main seal the 2 bottom ones
Still think the stang is a great looking car.
Wanna buy it? 😂
plot twist: that wasnt RTV, it was a rubber seal
Grew an inch in mere seconds? More like Not-so-humble Mechanic.
There's a reason why you only had two starter bolts. Either the starter has been replaced or the clutch and/or trans has. We never put that top bolt back. Never.
The trans was replaced. It had a junkyard transmission
hold the phone the clutch fork has changed from gold to black!
It may be the brand I used.
Hello, how are you, mechanic?
I am from the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. Can I buy parts for my car and ship them? Thank you
I have faulty relase bearing in my car for 6 years now (ik i still can't belive it works) and i can't be bother to replace it+i don't have tools to do it.Other then anoying sound i don't see a reason why should i do this.
6yrs WOW!!! the only issue id worry about is being stranded. but 6yrs again WOW
@@HumbleMechanic Volswagen Das Auto
(It's 93 vw polo,I own it for 20 years and it NEWER left me on the side of the road)
How much are you asking?
I’m going to put it up for 6k
32:49 Is it me or does the car look a lot lower than the last time we saw it?
I put ford racing springs on it. No more monster truck mode haha
Red = fast 😂😂😂
Great tutorial thank you HumbleMechanic
👍
CANNY HUMBLEMECHANIC
from Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 17:46
Cheers my friend
You still have the mustang. Are you a V8 guy now?
I do. It’s for sale. Haha not a mustang guy
@@HumbleMechanic I really like your challenge series and stay tuned is building a LS Porsche but that has already been done and you're a super mechanic so I'm thinking you build a coyote swap Porsche for a new challenge series
Wait im so confused, you have a Mustang??
It’s from the videos with Gears and Gasoline.
Still prefer to work on my VAG 😄
Me too.. but mine... wait what? :p
"bolt" holes loll
Lube the seal...wtf
Some do. Others tell you no to.
Are you becoming "domesticated"? I'm domestic but hate to see you changing your foundation. Lol.
Hahah no just needed to do a clutch before selling this thing.
OK smartie pants....now do an all wheel drive subaru clutch