Just getting back into photography again after a few years break, this looks like a fun alternative process to experiment with at home. Really enjoying your videos!
@@silveranddyeI really enjoy your style and production so look forward to your coming videos. I actually stayed in Singapore for a few months back in the 90s because my Dad worked in the power station. We lived in Grand Tower on Moulmien Street but it looks like it has all changed since then. They were just building the hospital when I was there as a kid. Such an exciting place
Does adding +2 stops to 3 ISO rating mean that acutal ISO of papers are 0.75? Have you tried adding a little hypo (sodium thiosulphate) to developer? It is expected to make emulsion layer thinner, and you can get brighter tones with less exposure. Ilford suggests that for film reversal. I thought it might work for paper but have no idea about the dilution and haven't tried yet.
I won’t say that as the +2 stops is specific to the reversal process to get a dense negative image. If you shoot it normally to get a negative, ISO 3 will get you a well exposed negative. Have not tried hypo with developer for the reversal process but yes it does work for other processes like wetplate to make the image brighter.
great video, PS there are two reversal processes E6 (slide/transparency) and RA-4 which one are you doing? as each has similar style of chemistry, but LOVE the 'in the field' nature of the developing tank, reminiscent of some Calumet ones of the '50's. This gives the 'wet/dry plate' feel to a modern process, the analogue touch, and a great polaroid, or instax alternative, for those not wanting expensive emulsions. Also a great low asa alternative to polaroids (which are asa 800) so gives us a feel for film exposure in bright conditions, where we will be shooting with asa 100/125/200 films.
Great instructional video man. Where did get the film holder developing system. Also is there any substitute for permanganate potassium bleach. Looking forward to see more of your content. 🎉
Hi Ryan, thanks for making this great video. We have followed your process and made some 8*10s. It worked! However, we found that the prints were kind of grey...that is, white /high light is pretty greyish. We thought might be chemical was not sufficient so we double the quantity (we made 200ml bleach for the 8*10 to begin with, then next trial we made 400ml). Turned out the photo with 400ml bleach was even flatter than before. Not sure what's causing that. We will try again with different bleach concentration. Do you have any suggestion for us?
Interesting, what paper did you use? It could be I suspect you are in a brightly lit area, the paper starts to “develop” before the bleach is able to complete its task. I suggest stick to the same bleach strength but bleach under red safe light instead
Great video! Is it recommended to use analytical grade for sulphuric acid, sodium bisulfate, sodium sulphite and potassium permanganate Or any grade will do?
@@silveranddye Thank you! How long should the stop bath take? Also, is it necessary to use a fixer? Apologies for all the questions-your video has been my main guide for this process, and I plan to begin next week. I want to make sure I’m fully prepared. 😊
@@VandykeCollectionStudioPH Glad you find my video helpful. A chemical stop bath works by altering the PH of the developer on the emulsion rendering it ineffective, technically it should be immediate but to be safe 30secs. I didn’t use a fixer because for events if I used a fixer I need running water to clear the fixer from the print. Also by right, any light sensitive silver on the paper would either have been bleached or developed, there shouldn’t be any unexposed/undeveloped silver that is left for the fixer to remove.
from what I've heard {Distphoto channel, and filmphotovm} there is a test kit, like measuring PH in ones pool, it measures silver content, and once the solution is 'saturated' by this test, its said to be exhausted; the other is a practical one, cut some film, if it 'clears' in a certain time its safe, and usable, think its like 30 sec. to a minute, any longer then its exhausted.
also he got it wrong, as its two parts its called BLIX (fixer and bleach) as one does the fixing {archival protection layer} the other [Bleach] removes the basic salts remaining from the fixing step which can degrade the print, aka rust the colour pigments in time.
@@andyvan5692 I think you are referring to C41 process. The bleach that is used for the reversal process does not contain fix as we still want to re expose the light sensitive silver on the paper
There are direct positive paper from Harman that you can use to print from your black and white slide film. But those come in fibre base only and the dynamic range is not as wide as compared to doing the reversal process
I have watched this video an unhealthy amount of time debating if I should try it. One question I have is the batch of developer you use to do one print reusable or is it done after the two development rounds of one print? I know paper has a lot less material in it to take off so I wonder if it would be more reusable than film developers. Also can u revitalize it by say mixing it back into a bigger patch of developer or adding fresh developer to that patch?
I have done a whole day of printing with the same batch of developer. But I wouldn’t keep the remainder for another day as they don’t keep well once diluted and used
Wow, your content is like no other photographer... It's an eye opening... Already subscribe for your next video
Thank you for your support and glad you found my content
I've been curious about giving direct positive paper a shot. Thank you for showcasing it!
My pleasure!
Me too - heard it talked about at the coffee group, thanks Ryan, that is so cool!
Good news, Ilford has made multigrade rc deluxe (gloss) available in 4x5
Oh wow! It is even easier now, but I have alot of paper to use up
Just getting back into photography again after a few years break, this looks like a fun alternative process to experiment with at home. Really enjoying your videos!
Thank you, you don’t know how comments like yours makes it worth while for me to create content. Glad it reignited the passion again
@@silveranddyeI really enjoy your style and production so look forward to your coming videos.
I actually stayed in Singapore for a few months back in the 90s because my Dad worked in the power station. We lived in Grand Tower on Moulmien Street but it looks like it has all changed since then. They were just building the hospital when I was there as a kid. Such an exciting place
Great video and very informative, keep it up!
Appreciate the support!
Does adding +2 stops to 3 ISO rating mean that acutal ISO of papers are 0.75? Have you tried adding a little hypo (sodium thiosulphate) to developer? It is expected to make emulsion layer thinner, and you can get brighter tones with less exposure. Ilford suggests that for film reversal. I thought it might work for paper but have no idea about the dilution and haven't tried yet.
I won’t say that as the +2 stops is specific to the reversal process to get a dense negative image. If you shoot it normally to get a negative, ISO 3 will get you a well exposed negative. Have not tried hypo with developer for the reversal process but yes it does work for other processes like wetplate to make the image brighter.
Best comment
🤣
great video, PS there are two reversal processes E6 (slide/transparency) and RA-4 which one are you doing? as each has similar style of chemistry, but LOVE the 'in the field' nature of the developing tank, reminiscent of some Calumet ones of the '50's. This gives the 'wet/dry plate' feel to a modern process, the analogue touch, and a great polaroid, or instax alternative, for those not wanting expensive emulsions. Also a great low asa alternative to polaroids (which are asa 800) so gives us a feel for film exposure in bright conditions, where we will be shooting with asa 100/125/200 films.
@@andyvan5692 neither, this is black and white paper reversal.
Great instructional video man. Where did get the film holder developing system. Also is there any substitute for permanganate potassium bleach. Looking forward to see more of your content. 🎉
I left a link to their product page in the description box. There’s a dichromate bleach but I believe those are harder to come by.
Is this similar to how fotoautomat operates?
Yes I suspect so. But it’s probably another kind of bleach that lasts longer and not as easy to obtain
Hi Ryan, thanks for making this great video.
We have followed your process and made some 8*10s. It worked! However, we found that the prints were kind of grey...that is, white /high light is pretty greyish. We thought might be chemical was not sufficient so we double the quantity (we made 200ml bleach for the 8*10 to begin with, then next trial we made 400ml). Turned out the photo with 400ml bleach was even flatter than before. Not sure what's causing that.
We will try again with different bleach concentration. Do you have any suggestion for us?
Interesting, what paper did you use? It could be I suspect you are in a brightly lit area, the paper starts to “develop” before the bleach is able to complete its task. I suggest stick to the same bleach strength but bleach under red safe light instead
Great video!
Is it recommended to use analytical grade for sulphuric acid, sodium bisulfate, sodium sulphite and potassium permanganate
Or any grade will do?
Any grade should work
@@silveranddye Thank you! How long should the stop bath take? Also, is it necessary to use a fixer?
Apologies for all the questions-your video has been my main guide for this process, and I plan to begin next week. I want to make sure I’m fully prepared. 😊
@@VandykeCollectionStudioPH Glad you find my video helpful. A chemical stop bath works by altering the PH of the developer on the emulsion rendering it ineffective, technically it should be immediate but to be safe 30secs. I didn’t use a fixer because for events if I used a fixer I need running water to clear the fixer from the print. Also by right, any light sensitive silver on the paper would either have been bleached or developed, there shouldn’t be any unexposed/undeveloped silver that is left for the fixer to remove.
Came here for the man with the curl, stayed there for the dog with the curve
Hope it was worth it
Nice video! How do you know that the bleach is wasted? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the question. It will stop working eventually, as in the image will not bleach away
from what I've heard {Distphoto channel, and filmphotovm} there is a test kit, like measuring PH in ones pool, it measures silver content, and once the solution is 'saturated' by this test, its said to be exhausted; the other is a practical one, cut some film, if it 'clears' in a certain time its safe, and usable, think its like 30 sec. to a minute, any longer then its exhausted.
also he got it wrong, as its two parts its called BLIX (fixer and bleach) as one does the fixing {archival protection layer} the other [Bleach] removes the basic salts remaining from the fixing step which can degrade the print, aka rust the colour pigments in time.
@@andyvan5692 I think you are referring to C41 process. The bleach that is used for the reversal process does not contain fix as we still want to re expose the light sensitive silver on the paper
I have always thought this paper is for making prints from B&W reversal film, like Fomapan R. It was told to me it's not.
There are direct positive paper from Harman that you can use to print from your black and white slide film. But those come in fibre base only and the dynamic range is not as wide as compared to doing the reversal process
I have watched this video an unhealthy amount of time debating if I should try it. One question I have is the batch of developer you use to do one print reusable or is it done after the two development rounds of one print? I know paper has a lot less material in it to take off so I wonder if it would be more reusable than film developers. Also can u revitalize it by say mixing it back into a bigger patch of developer or adding fresh developer to that patch?
I have done a whole day of printing with the same batch of developer. But I wouldn’t keep the remainder for another day as they don’t keep well once diluted and used
@ great to know.
I imagine how much strobe power you need for Iso 3, F 5,6? I think that need full power strobe?
Does the model feels dizzy after strobe is firing? 😂
I could go for an F3.5 lens but those are pretty expensive
Needs more Logan 🐕
His TH-cam debut
With the cassette, i guess the paper don't fold under pressure and you get to shoot your shot!
Do elaborate I might be lost in translation
Hi, thank you for the tutorial! It works great!!!! Have you ever tried it with caffenol? should it works as far as you know? Thank you again
I shall try that on my next video! Stay tuned
@@silveranddye Excelent! Can't wait!